DINING OUT
BRANCHING OUT With ALCOVE, MadTree puts down roots in the world of fine dining. — B R A N D O N W U S K E
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F IT WERE POSSIBLE FOR A RESTAURANT TO BE A “SUPERGROUP,” ALCOVE BY MADTREE Brewing would certainly be one. That’s because the bar/restaurant/event space in Over-the-Rhine is a collaboration between one of the Cincinnati area’s most beloved breweries (MadTree) and one of its most venerated chefs—Stephen Williams, whose Covington farm-to-table bistro, Bouquet, frequently graces our annual Best Restaurants issue. Of course, a supergroup needs an equally super venue, and Alcove fits the bill. The stately two-story brick building dates back to 1873, a date proudly emblazoned on its bright white exterior. It also happens to have one of the most fascinating histories of any building in Cincinnati. In the late 19th century, when the building housed one of Cincinnati’s premier beer gardens, top political honchos like George “Boss” Cox famously held court in its cavernous interior. If these walls could talk, they would roar. On second thought, that roar would surely be hushed by all the vegetation. While lush floral arrangements are very much the trend (see Somerset, Saeso, and Spoon), Alcove takes this concept to the next level with the multihued jungle growing out of the wall behind the bar. In a spectacular display of branding, MadTree’s logo is emblazoned in verdure in the middle of this “living wall.” The term “urban oasis” gets thrown around a lot, but at Alcove—an airy watering hole with breezy outdoor space and greenery—the term couldn’t be more apt. As one might expect from a restaurant with so much plant life, fruits and vegetables play heavily into Williams’s and Executive Chef Brandon Lomax’s collaborative menu. Take the savory mush9 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 2
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Alcove by MadTree Brewing 1410 Vine St., Over-theRhine, (513) 371-5700, madtreebrewing.com/ alcove Hours Dinner Mon–Thurs 4–10 p.m.; lunch and dinner Fri 11 a.m.–11 p.m.; brunch, lunch, and dinner Sat 10 a.m.–11 p.m. & Sun 10 a.m.–9 p.m. Prices $6 (Bistro Fries)–$32 (Sakura Farms Steak) Credit Cards All major The Takeaway Bouquet Chef Stephen Williams’s artful farm-to-table cuisine pairs well with MadTree’s extensive list of libations in this beautiful, historic space.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEREMY KRAMER
