DINING OUT
THE THAI THAT BINDS
TEAK makes a new home for itself in Over-the-Rhine.
W
—RODNEY WILSON
HEN IT WAS ANNOUNCED LAST YEAR THAT TEAK SUSHI & THAI Cuisine would be reopening in Over-the-Rhine, one word kept popping up in news coverage—beloved. I’d never been to the original Mt. Adams location, so I can’t speak firsthand to what made the place so special. But during one of my visits to Teak, a man at the table next to mine loudly proclaimed for the entire dining room to hear, “I love this place!” He then went on to explain to his dining companion (in quieter tones) that he’d loved the old incarnation and this was his first time at the new spot. I glanced over to see the speaker’s face lit with glee. So, yeah, beloved is fitting. Owner Chanaka De Lanerolle has said that he decided to bring back Teak’s take on Thai because of the renewed vibrancy in Over-the-Rhine, which he compared to the energy he felt in Mt. Adams during his time there. But for all of the hype around the restaurant’s re-emergence on the scene, it’s probably best to consider it a reimagining rather than a reopening. While long-time favorites show up on the menu, prepared by many of the same kitchen staff members from Mt. Adams, some adaptations have been made to better meet expectations of modern diners. Letting go of preconceived notions about Teak will serve you well. While it’s true that the new location is downsized (2,100 square feet, a smaller footprint than the original), the dining room doesn’t feel cramped. Upscale decor features—like leather-backed chairs, wooden tabletops, and visually striking liquor shelves—cleverly disguise Teak’s affordable menu offerings. 1 2 4 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M O C T O B E R 2 0 2 1
FYI
Teak 1200 Race St., Over-theRhine, (513) 421-8325, teakotr.com Hours Lunch Tues–Fri 11 am–2:30 pm, dinner Tues–Fri 4–10 pm. Sat noon–midnight, Sun noon–9 pm Prices $3 (tamago a la carte)–$25 (sushi and sashimi combo dinner) Credit cards All major The Takeaway Teak brings new dishes and old favorites to a cozy corner space in Over-theRhine.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRIS VON HOLLE
