Aug - Oct 2015 #12
Great heights T H E C ITY’S LATEST ICON: S H A N GHA I TO WER
FRANCK MULLER BOUTIQUE MELBOURNE 119 COLLINS STREET TEL: 03 9650 0288 SYDNEY SHOP 5, 147 KING STREET TEL: 02 9320 0188 MELBOURNE ANTON JEWELLERY TEL: 03 9569 1000 SYDNEY SHUM’S WATCHES AND JEWELLERY TEL: 02 9211 1887 SWISS CONCEPT TEL: 02 9221 6288
Shop7, 101 Collins Street Melbourne VIC 3000 ,Phone: +61 3 9650 9288
Ground Floor, Crown River Walk Southbank VIC 3006, Phone: +61 3 9690 2566
FINE RARE COLLECTABLE AUSTRALIAN PINK DIAMONDS
BOUTIQUE. LEVEL 3 WESTFIELD SYDNEY 3048B CASTLEREAGH STREET, SYDNEY NSW 2000 AUSTRALIA PH: +612 9232 2329 • VAROUJAN.COM.AU
KENZO.COM/HERENOW
中国驻悉尼旅游办事处
INTRODUCTION 18
Welcome from CNTO, Sydney
Welcome from China Eastern
随
上
W
S
着中国经济的蓬勃发展,各个城市也越来越国际化。上海的 海确实是一个古典与现代并存的城市。外滩的西面曾为欧 金融区已成为汇聚现代建筑的枢纽,来自各地的游客纷纷前 洲租借,这里拥有世界数量最多的装饰风艺术的建筑。外滩 来探索快节奏的外滩东区(第60-68页)。然而现代建筑并不只限 的东面却是现代摩登的浦东区,也就是上海环球金融中心和上 于上海市内高耸入天的摩天大楼,中国最壮观的建筑之一并且屡 海中心大厦的所在地。在第60-68页中我们为您掀开了“新”上海 获殊荣的广州大剧院今年将庆祝成立五周年(第80-88页)、北 的面貌。 京的各个购物中心也变成了大型的生活娱乐综合体,不仅聚集了 除了上海以外,北京也同样以一座座拔地而起的高楼大厦而闻 各大国际高端品牌,同时还集餐厅、酒店、电影院和剧院于一体 名,特别是休闲购物综合体(第122-128页)。知名美国服装品牌 (第122-128页)。 Tommy Hilfiger将于三十周年纪念时揭幕位于北京In88购物中心 虽然面向现代化是中国未来的发展方向,但我国最引人入胜的 的旗舰店暨中国最大门店,此举奠定了北京作为世界时尚之都之 自然景观仍然让访客肃然起敬。翻到第110-120页来探索九寨沟高 一的地位。北京的购物中心迅速崛起,成为市内的时尚购物地标, 山湖泊群的仙境、素有“奇峰三千,秀水八百”美誉的张家界国家 还融合了国际知名酒店品牌如柏悦和丽思卡尔顿,让您的购物体 公园(电影《阿凡达》曾在这里取景),以及景色壮丽而隽秀的龙 验更加轻松便捷。祝您阅读愉快! 脊梯田。不管是人造的还是天然的,中国未曾让人失望过。 ith China’s booming economy, it’s no surprise its cities are becoming grander by the year. Shanghai’s Financial District, for example, has become a hub for modern architecture that has tourists exploring the Bund’s fast-paced east side (pages 60-68). And modern architecture isn’t limited to skyscrapers – or Shanghai, for that matter. Guangzhou is celebrating the fifth anniversary of its award-winning Opera House (pages 80-88). Even Beijing’s shopping centres have become mega lifestyle complexes that are home to high-end stores, restaurants, hotels and cinemas (pages 122-128). China’s natural wonders also have visitors in awe. On pages 110-120, discover the magical lakes of Jiuzhaigou National Park, climb through Zhangjiajie, or let the serenity of the Longji Terraced Fields transfix you. Whether it’s manmade or Mother Nature’s creation, China never disappoints.
hanghai really does have the best of both worlds. On the west side of the Bund, the former European concessions are filled with Art Deco buildings – more than any other city in the world. On the east side is the all-modern, gleamy area of Pudong, where the Shanghai World Financial Center and Shanghai Tower stand tall. It’s here, on pages 60-68, that we take a look at the ‘new’ Shanghai. Not to be left behind, Beijing is also becoming a city known for its buildings, in particular its shopping complexes (pages 122-128). The addition of Tommy Hilfiger – who recently celebrated his eponymous brand’s 30th anniversary with his largest store opening at In88 – further solidifies Beijing’s rise as one of the fashion capitals of the world. Enjoy!
Higher View Issue 12
Sub Editor Adam Scroggy
Financial Controller Stuart Harle
Advertising
Higher View is produced for
Max La-Brooy (02) 8188 3664
business-class passengers on
Editor Constantina Pilatos
Publisher Jim Flynn (02) 8188 3671
max@citrusmedia.com.au
China and Australia. It can also
com.au
Contributors Lisa Perkovic, Alicia Miller, Mark Parren Taylor, Anne Smith
Creative Director Stephanie Goh
Production Manager Ian Scott
Staff Writer/Photographer Trent van der Jagt
Editorial Director Richard Ryan
constantina@citrusmedia.
jim@citrusmedia.com.au
China Eastern flights between be found in select newsagents
Crystal Wong (02) 8188 3662
and hotels. An iPad edition is available via the App Store.
crystal@citrusmedia.com.au Printed by Webstar. Citrus Media PO Box 20154
Cover image
World Square
Oleksiy Maksymenko /
NSW 2002
Getty Images
© 2015 Citrus Media. All rights reserved. No article or images may be reproduced wholly or in part without prior written permission from the publisher. Citrus Media is a division of Media Factory Pty Ltd. While every care was taken during the preparation of this magazine, Citrus Media cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information or any consequence arising from it. All views and opinions expressed herein are the personal views of the writer/photographer and do
not necessarily reflect the views or opinions of China National Tourism Office Sydney (CNTO) or any of its employees, affiliates or agencies. Higher View is an independent publication and is in no way endorsed by CNTO. The contents/ photos do not necessarily represent the views of China Eastern Airlines.
Contents
110 CHIN A
Natural wonders
25 News 时事要闻 What’s going on where across China and Australia 34 Nanjing in eight stops 南京之旅 Here are the places not to miss in this cultural city 40 Guided tour 慕田峪长城 Discover the Mutianyu section of the Great Wall 42 48 hours in Brisbane 布里斯班48小时 City beach, cute cafes and fine dining restaurants, this is Brisbane 46 度假胜地—塔斯马尼亚 潘华 胡玫带领我们探索一 个占地仅7万多平方公里却 拥有着美好的一切的地方 48 Walk on the wild side 野外漫步 Walk Tasmania’s photogenic coastline
Contents 134
Mulberry
48
136
AU S T R A L I A
Bouchra Jarrar
Bay of Fires 60 A tall story 建在云端 Adrian Mourby looks at Shanghai’s fast-paced CBD 70 Step up to the plate 饕餮盛宴 We chat to Melbourne’s top chefs about the city’s culinary landscape
100 Magic mountains 魅惑蓝山 Lisa Perkovic enjoys a weekend away in the Blue Mountains 110 The beauty of China 魅力中国 China’s natural wonder will leave you amazed, reckons Alicia Miller
80 Modern masterpiece 现代建筑杰作 Celebrating the fifth anniversary of the Guangzhou Opera House
122 Shop shape 北京豪华购物 New mega-malls in Beijing are raising the bar for luxury shoppers
90 Here to stay 尽在这里 Enjoy the five-star treatment at these leading Sydney hotels
131 Higher life 奢华生活 Check out the latest luxury goods from world-leading brands
10 0
Blue Mountai ns
80
Guangzhou
140 Secret garden 神秘花园 Erdem’s Resort 2016 Collection displays lady-like silhouettes
156 Always do better 精益求精 A leader in the watch and jewellery industry, Piaget is still turning heads
148 Bohemian rhapsody 波西米亚狂想曲 Channelling the 70s, Chloe’s collection is all flare and florals
162 My higher life 萧邦品牌大使 We chat to F1 driver Mark Webber, Chopard’s new ambassador
Exclusive, Exquisite, unchanged by Time ~ Martin and Stein
以铂金、钻石、 水晶和玉髓打造的 装饰艺术风格手链, 是Gloria Vanderbilt 系列的其中一员。
An Art Deco platinum diamond rock crystal and chalcedony bead bracelet. Attributed to the Gloria Vanderbilt Collection.
Shop 22, The Grand Walk, Queen Victoria Building, 445 George Street, Sydney Telephone (02) 9267 6628 Facsimile (02) 9267 4757
FLOWER POWER
DINING IN
MUST SEA
HORSE PLAY
Canberra will be in full bloom for the annual Floriade festival p26
We’ve picked out Shanghai’s best hotel restaurants p32
Bondi’s Sculptures by the Sea is back for another year p36
The most anticipated event in Australia – the Emirates Melbourne Cup p38
现代杰作 《20:21》有别于您曾经看过的所有芭蕾舞表演。 它融合了20世纪最棒的一切以及21世纪的新鲜 感,以精彩绝伦、激动人心的方式演绎由纽约 编导大师 GEORGE BALANCHINE和TWYLA THARP以及澳大利亚舞蹈编导TIM HARBOUR的 精心杰作。日期:8月27日至9月5日。
on pointe
20:21 is unlike any ballet you’ve seen before. It incorporates the best of the 20th century and the freshest of the 21st century to create an electrifying performance that is the brainchild of New York greats George Balanchine and Twyla Tharp, and Australian choreographer Tim Harbour. August 27 – September 5, artscentremelbourne.com.au
NEWS
DON’T MISS 不容错过
26
徒步之旅 珀斯CAPE TO CAPE(玛格丽特河)徒步之 旅是澳大利亚最棒的沿海步道之一,豪华旅 游公司WALK INTO LUXURY提供边走边享 受顶级美食、佳酿以及住宿的旅程。其中包 括在酒庄享用午餐、日落之下在崖顶品尝美 酒以及观赏澳大利亚土著部落的传统乐器 迪吉里杜管演奏。每人$2,990起。
Walk the walk
The Cape to Cape (Margaret River) Walk is one of Australia’s best coastal walks and now Walk into Luxury offers guests a chance to enjoy world-class food, wine and accommodation along the way. Expect winery lunches and cliff top sunset drinks. From $2,990 per person, walkintoluxury.com.au
昆士兰乐园 灯光、相机、开动!不论是音乐、舞蹈、 戏剧、艺术,还是马戏团,您都可以在一 年一度在昆士兰首都城市举办的布里斯 班节找得到!日期:9月6日至9月7日。
concrete playground Lights, camera, action! The Brisbane Festival has it all. Whether it’s music, dance, theatre, art or the circus you’re after, you’ll find it in the Queensland capital city from September 6-27.
brisbanefestival.com.au
即将来袭 OPENING SOON
中国的酒店业即将迎来一些新面孔
NEWS
JUST ANNOUNCED, CHINA WILL SEE SOME FRESH-FACED HOTELS
PULLMAN QINGDAO
DUSIT THANI SHANGHAI
青岛机场铂尔曼酒店将为旅客提供独一无二、奢华时尚的 体验。这家设有238间客房的酒店将法式的高雅格调与中国 传统文化相融合。
上海闸北区将迎来国际一流的都喜酒店。酒店设有215间 客房、两家餐厅、顶层游泳池以及供客人和本地人享用的 酒吧。
Pullman Qingdao Airport hotel will be the latest luxury offering for travellers. French elegance is artfully blended with Chinese culture in this 238-room location.
The deluxe Dusit Thani Hotel, Shanghai Zhabei, will offer 215 guest rooms, two restaurants, a rooftop swimming pool and a bar for guests and locals to enjoy.
pullmanhotels.com
dusit.com
A concierge’s guide to Lijiang 丽江和府洲际度假酒店首席礼宾司王文斌
STEVEN WANG, CHIEF CONCIERGE AT INTERCONTINENTAL LIJIANG ANCIENT TOWN RESORT Must-see attractions... The Old Town is a
动力双重奏 澳亚艺术节致力于向观众呈显澳洲及亚洲的传统 和现代文化。为期两周的艺术节在阿德莱德举行,各 式活动包括戏剧、舞蹈、电影和美食。其中的一大 亮点是元宵节,将于中国农历正月十五在埃尔锝公 园(ELDER PARK)举行庆祝活动。9月23至10月4日。
dynamic duo
The OzAsia Festival is a celebration of all things Australian and Asian. Adelaide will hold theatre, dance, music, film and food events over two weeks. A key event of the Festival is the Moon Lantern Festival, held in Elder Park. September 23 – October 4. ozasiafestival.com.au
must! Conveniently, we have a side entrance that leads you straight into the narrow pathways of the ancient town so you can go exploring. 必去景点:古城是必去的地方!我们的酒店有一道侧门, 让您直接前往古城的小巷,让您马上开始探索古城,非常 方便。
Less common tourists site to visit... Go to the Black Dragon Pool Park, walk under the big trees, stand next to the sapphire clear lake while seeing fish jumping out and saying hello to you. 比较少游客知道的景点:在黑龙潭公园的大树下散步,站在 清澈如镜的湖畔观赏在湖中嬉戏的鱼儿。
Best place to get a photo... At the top of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. For something more local you can climb to the top of Lion Hill where Wangu Tower stands and enjoy the panoramic view of the UNESCO ancient town. 取景拍照的最佳地点:玉龙雪山的顶部。也可以选择登上 位于狮子山上的万古楼,将丽江古城鳞次栉比的全貌美景 尽收眼底。
If you want to try something new... There are so many unique local foods to try at the night markets. You will definitely come across some delicacies you didn’t know existed. 如果您想尝试新事物:在夜市里有许多美味的当地特色小 吃,您必定会品尝到此生也没有尝过的美食。
A unique souvenir to pick up... Silver is very popular in Lijiang. You can find one-off jewellery pieces designed, and made, by the locals. A perfect gift for a friend or loved one. 独特的纪念品:银器在丽江很受欢迎。在这里您可以找到
芭萝莎盛宴 芭萝莎(BAROSSA)是世界上最大的美食天堂 之一,以其葡萄酒、农产品和壮丽的景观闻名 于世。为期三天的美食周末是所有人一同欢庆 的日子,将是一场美食盛宴,各式各样的活动 精彩纷呈,包括午餐、葡萄酒大师班、美味晚 餐以及品味佳酿。 8月14至16日。
Bite of the Barossa The Barossa is one of the world’s great gastronomic playgrounds, renowned for its wine, produce and beautiful landscapes. The Gourmet Weekend is a three-day celebration of the region with long lunches, wine masterclasses, gourmet dinners and winery days. August 14-16, barossagourmet.com
独一无二,当地人纯手工制造的银饰,是送赠亲朋戚友的 最佳选择。
Phrases or slang that might be helpful for foreigners... When visiting China you become very familiar with common sayings like Ni Hao and Xie Xie. In Lijiang, you’ll here the word Naxi a lot, as it is the ancient culture. 外国人在中国适用的俚语或常用语:“你好”和“谢谢”是 在中国常常会用到的词语。在丽江,您会经常听到“纳西” 这词,因为这是古时的文化。
27
FEATURE EVENT 9月13日至10月20日 September 13 – October 20
NEWS
floriadeaustralia.com
28
花卉节
Spring break 百万朵争奇斗艳的春蕾将同庆澳大利亚最盛大的春季庆典 ONE MILLION FLOWERS WILL BLOOM FOR FLORIADE, AUSTRALIA’S BIGGEST CELEBRATION OF SPRING
Commonwealth Park
摄影工作坊 Photography workshop
市 Night markets
郁金香、玫瑰、 、水仙,不管您最喜 爱的是 种花,在堪培拉联邦公园内必定 能找得到。 漫步于花园之中欣赏色彩斑斓 的鲜花或坐上摩天轮俯瞰醉人的花海。
这是专为摄影爱好者而设的工作坊。首都领地活动机 构(EVENTSACT)开放园区的清晨时段给参加者 开 人潮拍摄花卉。工作坊由GEOOF CONFORT和BEN KOPILOW主领。必须预约。
于花卉节之夜畅游夜市或是一边轻 鸡尾酒一边观赏现场演奏或喜剧表 演。门票很快售 ,请提前预约。
Tulips, roses, daisies, daffodils – whatever your favourite flower is you’re sure to find it at Canberra’s Commonwealth Park. Spend the day wandering the gardens and even taking a ride of the ferris wheel.
This is for all the aspiring photographers out there. EventsACT is offering visitors an exclusive opportunity to take early-morning shots at Floriade before the crowds arrive. The workshop is lead by Geoff Comfort and Ben Kopilow. Bookings are essential.
Be sure to catch the NightFest. Spend the evening wandering through markets or chill out with cocktail in hand listening to live music or a comedy show. This is a ticketed event that does sell out fast, so book early.
DON’T MISS 不容错过
BEIJING
B R I TA I N ’ S G O T TA L E N T British pop star Robbie Williams will hit Beijing in September. He’s bringing his Let Me Entertain You tour to the Mastercard Center just before heading over to Shanghai. robbiewilliams.com
30
S TAT E O F T H E A R T Beijing's always-hip 798 Art Zone will host its annual festival at end of September. You can expect international curators and artists to fill the galleries (former warehouses), highlighting its international artistic community. Guest curators and artists will be announced via their website, so keep checking for announcements. September 20 – October 30, 798district.com
Cut above the rest Fairmont Hotels’ The Cut welcomes chef de cuisine Christoph Zoller. The steakhouse is famous for serving Australian wagyu beef, and Zoller says instead of changing the menu he will just be consolidating it, adding his own twists – a new risotto dish, a weekly changing lunch menu – here and there. fairmont.com
RE A SON TO C E L E B R AT E What better way for Tommy Hilfiger to celebrate the 30th anniversary of his eponymous fashion label than by opening his largest store yet in the booming-fashion capital, Beijing (see pages 122-128) The two-storey store in In88 will showcase the Hilfiger Collection, the pinnacle of the brand’s offering. tommy.com.cn
SHANGHAI
Dining in
PEOPLE ARE FLOCKING TO SHANGHAI HOTELS — AND NOT FOR THEIR ROOMS, BUT RATHER THEIR RESTAURANTS
32
Table No. 1 @ The Waterhouse Gordon Ramsay’s protege, Jason Atherton, is the mastermind behind this modern eatery. The idea behind this place is world-class food with casual ‘social dining.’ Don’t be surprised if you have to share a communal table. tableno-1.com
100 Century @ Park Hyatt If heights are your bag, then 100 Century is for you. It’s located on the 91st floor of Shanghai World Financial Center, one of the world’s tallest buildings. Enjoy Chinese Wok, Western raised steak or some Japanese sushi. shanghai.park.hyatt.com
Sir Elly’s @ The Peninsula Chef de Cuisine pairs classic French training and techniques with a colourful flavour selection of only the freshest Asian, European and Mediterraneaninspired ingredients. Dining is enhanced with a view of The Bund. shanghai.peninsula.com
TASTE OF SCOTLAND Take a tasting tour of Scotland without having to leave Shanghai. Each of the Single Malt Whiskies that make up the Classic Malts Selection at Waldorf Astoria’s Long Bar come straight from Scotland. Start from the Lowlands with a floral Single Malt from Glenkinchie and work your way through to the magical Isle of Islay with a rich, peaty Lagavulin. waldorfastoriashanghai.com
on the run Running is often a healthy way to relieve stress, but city running can have the reverse effect. Dodging your way through crowded streets while trying to find a long, uninterrupted path can all seem too much. Alas, Adidas has come up with a solution, opening a ‘Runbase’ at Xuhui Riverside – essentially a jogging centre. adidas.com
POINT PIPER SYDNEY HARBOUR
澳大利亚最顶级的黄金地段 这是个千载难逢的机会, 您可在三个整层北向房产中任选 其一,距离Seven Shillings海滩仅数米之遥。 底层拥有自己的花园和游泳池,中层和顶层饱览西北面壮丽 的悉尼海港以及城市天际线美景。
澳元$7,700,000起售 欢迎预约看房,现在就注册 onepointpiper.com.au | 1800 797 887 本广告一切的资讯、图片及插图仅供参考,如有任何更改将不作另行通知。 Krongold Group ABN 15 254 937 154、Qualitas Property Partners Pty Ltd ACN 137928155 以及所有跟它们有关的公司及中介均不就本 广告的资讯、图片或插图的准确性、完整性或及时性承担任何责任,亦不对任何内容上的错误和差异负责,并且对于依赖本广告资讯而招致任何损失概不负责(在法律允许的范围内)。本广告的资讯、图片 以及插图在任何情况下均不构成买卖合同或物业销售的保证,绝不能依赖任何资讯内容作为声明或事实依据。设计:www.brandandco.com.au
ESSENTIAL
Nanjing NANJING
...IN EIGHT STOPS
Rich in history and lush green parks, Nanjing is a haven for history buffs and nature lovers alike
2
Ming City Walls
3
Ming Palace
Some 35km of fortifications were ordered to be erected in the capital by Ming’s founder Zhu Yuanzhang between 1366 and 1393. Originally there were three walls in Nanjing history: one circling the city, one around the Imperial palace and one surrounding the Emperor’s hall.
34
Unlike the Forbidden City in Beijing, the Ming Palace, built in 1367, did not survive. Some remnants are now open to the public in the Ming Palace Ruins and Wuchaomen Park, which stand opposite each other on East Zhongshan Dong Road. The nearby Xiaoling Tomb of Ming Dynasty – the mausoleum of Yuanzhang and his wife Ma – is one of the largest imperial tomb complexes in China.
Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge This 44-year-old structure was the first of its kind to be designed and built by the People’s Republic, and took eight years, 100,000 tons of steel, one million tons of cement and 280 million RMB to complete.
5
Tangbao
8
Hongshan Forest Zoo
These steamed dumplings are sublime. Under an extremely thin layer of dough hides delectable broth and a ball of tender pork. To eat these jiggly meat pockets, bite a small ‘window’ on the skin, drink up the broth, dip the rest in vinegar, and enjoy.
1
The Confucius Temple
Built as the site to worship the great Chinese thinker, Confucius, the shrine known as Fuzi Miao has been a local cultural centre since its establishment in 1034. This is one of the oldest structures in Nanjing.
4
6
Xuanwu Lake Park
7
The Ming Great Wall of Nanjing
Going back to the 14th century, this historic landmark is a symbol of Nanjing’s time as the capital of the Ming Dynasty between 1368 and 1421.
More than 3,000 animals call this tree-blanketed hill home, including rare native species like cuddly giant pandas and ginger-furred snub-nosed monkeys.
Photos: Thinkstock
Just a few steps away from commercial thoroughfares, this former imperial lake garden ushers city dwellers from the urban hustle and bustle into a peaceful haven of weeping willows, arch bridges, paddleboats and visually stunning flowers.
DON’T MISS 不容错过
SYDNEY
海边之旅
36
悉尼最受欢迎的户外展览即将 拉开帷幕。悉尼邦迪(BONDI) 的海岸步道将变身为一条两公 里长的临时性雕塑公园,拥有 10 0多个来自澳大利亚和全球 各地艺术家的雕塑。10月22至 11月8日。
must sea Sydney’s favourite outdoor exhibition is back. Bondi’s coastline will be transformed into a 2km-long, temporary sculpture park featuring over 100 sculptures by local and international artists. October 22 – November 8, sculpturebythesea.com
顶级之作 中国的艺术家在阿奇博尔德艺术奖上取得了巨大的成 就。 《中国阿奇博尔德入围回顾展》将展出艺术家们获 得极高评价的23幅画作。即日至8月27日,中国文化中 心,悉尼卡斯尔雷街151号1层。
Prized possessions Chinese artists have achieved great accomplishments in the Archibald Prize. Exhibition: A Retrospective of Chinese Archibald Finalists showcases 23 paintings from artists that received high commendations for their merits. Till August 27, China Cultural Centre in Sydney, Level 1, 151 Castlereagh Street.
火焰四射 澳大利亚首家以炭火烹调的餐厅便是位于悉 尼萨利山(Surry Hills)的Firedoor。厨房内设 置了两个烤箱、四个烤架和一个以木头生火的 煮食炉。经过使用特别挑选出来的烹饪燃料所 烹调出来了菜色均带有独特的木材香味。
ON FIRE Firedoor is Australia’s first solely firepowered restaurant. The Surry Hills kitchen is fitted with two ovens, four grills and a wood burning stove. Its dishes are infused with the distinctive aromas of the timber specifically chosen for fuel. firedoor.com.au
全城瞩目 澳大利亚著名演员CATE BLANCHETT将出演《THE PRESENT》,饰演个性丰富而复杂的角色ANNA PETROVNA。该剧改编自ANTON CHEKHOV未完成 的剧作《PLATONOV》,就让我们拭目而待吧。 门票:$113起;日期:8月10日至9月19日。
Power play Australia’s golden girl, Cate Blanchett, will front The Present, an adaptation of Anton Chekhov’s unfinished work Platonov, bringing the rich and complex character of Anna Petrovna to life in her long-awaited return to the stage. Tickets from $113, August 10 – September 19, sydneytheatre.com.au
CHADSTONE Shop G010, Chadstone Shopping Centre, Chadstone THE GLEN Shop 2, 103 The Glen Shopping Centre, Glen Waverley T: (03) 9654 1166 E: enquiries@antonjewellery.com antonjewellery.com
DON’T MISS 不容错过
MELBOURNE
墨尔本杯赛马 阿联酋航空墨尔本杯赛马是一场“令全 国停摆的比赛”,迎来全球顶级骑师齐聚 一堂。取得桂冠的幸运儿还能得到18K金 的赛马奖杯,还有超过360万奖金。 日期:11月3日。
Cup of gold It’s the race that stops the nation. The world’s top jockeys descend on Melbourne to race in the Emirates Melbourne Cup and, hopefully, take the 18 carat gold trophy and over $3.6 million home. November 3, flemington.com.au
38
R O CK OF AG E S Put on your red shoes and immerse yourself in a celebration of 50 years of one of the most influential artists in rock, pop, fashion and performance. David Bowie is a multimedia experience exclusive to Australasia showcasing at the ACMI. Exhibiting till November 1, acmi.net.au
时代摇滚 为庆祝当代其中一位对摇滚乐、流行音乐、时装与表演最具 影响力的艺术家DAVID BOWIE入行50周年,澳大利亚动态 影像中心(简称ACMI)将举行她的个人多媒体回顾展。 展览由即日起至11月1日。
艺术飨宴 墨尔本的大街小巷将于9月份举行的墨尔本 艺穗节上演一场艺术飨宴,汇聚一众当地的 艺术家和表演家。艺穗节期间将举办超过 408场活动。请到访官方网站查看更多活动详 情:MELBOURNEFRINGE.COM.AU;日期: 9月16日至10月4日。
Art attack
Melbourne’s streets become a canvas for local artists and performers alike. From September, the Melbourne Fringe Festival will take over the Victorian capital with 408 events being held throughout the city. Track them down at melbournefringe.com.au, September 16 – October 4.
One to watch Swiss watch specialists, Monards, have opened the largest watch store in Australia, in one of the country’s most exclusive spaces, Melbourne’s Crown Casino. The flagship store will stock 30 brands including Vacheron Constantin, Girard-Perregaux, Breguet, Blancpain and Roger Dubuis.
monards.com.au
只此一家 专营瑞士高级腕表的钟表零售商MONARDS 在澳大利亚最奢华的地方——墨尔本皇冠赌 场内开设了一家全澳最大型的钟表店。旗舰店 内出售超过30个品牌的腕表,包括江诗丹顿、 芝柏、宝玑、宝珀和罗杰杜彼。
GUIDED TOUR
THINGS TO DO
40
Wonder Wall HIKE ONE OF THE MOST PICTURESQUE PARTS OF THE GREAT WALL, TAKE A TOBOGGAN RIDE AND EXPLORE THE HISTORY OF THE MING DYNASTY ALL IN ONE DAY
在长城最美丽动人的其中一部分来一趟徒步之旅,坐上雪橇尽情探索明朝的历史文化
慕田峪长城
雪橇或缆车
定陵地下宫殿
总神道
MUTIANYU GREAT WALL
TOBOGGAN OR CHAIRLIFT
THE SACRED WAY
征服了第一到第六个敌楼后,便会欣 赏到慕田峪的壮丽美景,群山环抱, 风景秀丽。在这里越往上走心情越 舒畅。
从第六敌楼回到地面上有两种方 法:雪橇或缆车。下来之后有午餐 供应,然后便开一个小时的车前往 明十三陵。
DINGLING UNDERGROUND PALACE 参观中国著名的地下建筑之一定陵 地下宫殿,这是明代神宗皇帝朱翊 钧(死于1620年)的陵墓。
Conquer towers one through six of the wall and be rewarded with spectacular panorama views of Mutianyu. The further you climb, the more peaceful it gets.
There are two ways to get back to flatland from tower six: toboggan or chairlift. From there lunch will be provided, followed by an hour’s drive to Ming Tomb.
Explore the Dingling Underground Palace (unearthed 1958) where the 13th Ming Emperor, Zhu Yijun, who died in 1620, is buried.
wildgreatwall.com
徒步探索绿树成荫的总神道,途中 会看见各种栩栩如生的动物和人物 石雕像。 Take a nature walk to discover The Sacred Way. Make your way through the central, tree-lined corridor, which features carved statues of animals and human figures.
48 HOURS 42
48 HOURS IN
Brisbane Australia’s sunny riverside city is going through a rebirth and there’s plenty to keep you busy over the span of a weekend, writes Trent van der Jagt
THE ORIGINAL CAMPOS COFFEE CAN BE FOUND IN BRISBANE
澳大利亚阳光明媚、靠近河岸的一个城市正在经历着重 生,在这里有许多精彩的活动会让您在这里度过一个多 姿多彩的周末,Trent van der Jagt写道 DAY ONE 第一天 8am If you don’t start your day with coffee and brekky at the local cafe then it’s not a proper Aussie morning. Energise at the much-loved Campos Coffee Cafe, tucked behind the original roasting factory in Fortitude Valley. As Campos spreads its beans across the country, it’s definitely worth enjoying a sip from the birthplace of a great roaster. You can also get stuck into plenty of great experimental meals, like pancakes with basil, macerated strawberry, citrus crumble and gelato.
早上8时 如果您早上没有到当地的咖啡馆喝杯咖啡、
吃个早餐的话,那便不是澳大利亚式的早晨 了。毅力谷(Fortitude Valley)的一家烘培 工厂是鼎鼎大名并且倍受欢迎的Campos咖 啡的发源地,在工厂后面是他们家的咖啡馆, 其咖啡名不虚传,绝对值得一试。除了咖啡 之外,您还可以品尝到许多极具创意的美食 如罗勒煎饼、糖渍草莓、柑橘碎和冰淇淋, 餐单每月更改一次。
11am Like most Australian cities,
早上11时
Brisbane is home to a beautiful Botanic Garden with almost 50 acres of meticulously maintained native Australian flora. There’s no better place to walk off your big breakfast. The Garden is also bordered by the Brisbane Parliament House, a pristine sandstone structure built in 1865.
就如澳大利亚其他的城市一样,布里斯班也 拥有着美丽的植物园。面积约50英亩大的植 物园内绽放着各种澳大利亚本土品种的花卉。 吃过丰富的早餐后,漫步于植物园之中是个 不错的主意。沿着迂回的小径走到河岸,沿 途不仅有众多棕榈树,还有喷泉和池塘。毗 邻植物园的便是布里斯班议会大厦,一座建 于1865年的历史建筑。
48 HOURS STOKEHOUSE Q IS JUST ONE OF BRISBANE’S MANY GREAT FINE DINING VENUES
2pm Brisbane has taken a page out of Sydney and Melbourne’s book and is quickly becoming a haven for inventive small bars and restaurants. Alfred & Constance, for example, is a four-in-one restaurant and bar. Kick back with a cocktail in hand at their Tiki Bar decorated in all things beach culture or take it easy with slowroasted rosemary chicken in their jazz-themed restaurant. This is one of the best places to get a real taste of the laid-back Brisbane culture.
下午2时 悉尼和墨尔本的餐饮业日益兴旺,布里斯班 也随之参与在这场盛宴之中,逐渐成为汇聚 新颖小酒吧和餐厅的美食天堂。Alfred and Constance餐厅是一家四合一的餐厅酒吧,
43
您可以在其富有海滩风情的Tiji酒吧里喝杯鸡 尾酒,或是在拥有爵士主题的餐厅里细味享 用迷迭香烤鸡。这里是您体验布里斯班休闲 文化最好的地方之一。
城最热闹的购物大街,还有许多延伸出来的 小巷。皇后街总是为您带来意想不到的惊喜, 比如夹在高端服饰品牌与本土纯手工居家用 品中间的便是一家小小的Brew咖啡馆。
5pm Queen Street Mall is the go-to
7pm Graffiti-covered warehouse
area for all the hustle and bustle you’d expect from a city’s best shopping street. Branching off into a number of smaller side streets, Queen Street always has something different to discover. Small cafes such as Brew Cafe are dotted between high-end clothing brands and local handmade homewares, so anything you’re after is just a small detour away.
roller doors, dozens of mismatched couches and patio furniture: it may sound more like a council clean-up, but at Kerbside Bar they prefer to describe it as having the feel of an Aussie backyard barbecue – though with a bit more choice than your standard six-pack of VB. With over 250 craft beers and some extremely knowledgeable bartenders, Kerbside has become one of the city’s hottest spots and makes it obvious that, in Brisbane, often anything goes.
下午5时 皇后街购物中心(Queen Street Mall)是全
下午7时 充满涂鸦的仓库卷帘门,还有许多不匹配的 沙发和庭院家具,看上去可能会感觉怪怪的, 可是Kerbside酒吧却形容这种情况为澳大利 亚后院烧烤休闲风。Kerbside拥有250款啤 酒供挑选,还有经验非常丰富的调酒师,使 它成为城内其中一家最受欢迎的酒吧。
DAY TWO 第二天
KERBSIDE BLENDS MISMATCHED FURNITURE AND ROLLER DOORS WITH OVER 250 CRAFT BEERS
9am Today it’s all about South Bank, the super-relaxed side of Brisbane just over the river that looks back towards the city’s skyline. But before you delve into this unique slice of small-beach-town atmosphere in a big city, it’s time to delve into some breakfast. Grab yourself a quick coffee and bite to eat at the Shore
48 HOURS
THE HERITAGE-LISTED STORY BRIDGE SPANS THE BRISBANE RIVER
44 institutions and feature some of Australia’s best visual artists. Whether you’re interested in Australian history or the contemporary artists making a buzz in Queensland, you can freely explore both galleries at your own pace.
INNOVATIVE COCKTAILS ARE IN NO SHORT SUPPLY IN THIS EVOLVING CITY
下午2时 沿着南岸河岸走一段小路便来到昆士兰艺术 馆和昆士兰现代艺术馆。两家艺术馆均致力 推广澳大利亚当代本土艺术佳作,展出澳大 利亚一些最棒的艺术家的作品。无论您是对 澳大利亚历史文化还是在昆士兰州具有影响 力的当代艺术家有兴趣,在这两家艺术馆内 您都可以按着自己的节奏自由地浏览。
Restaurant, which overlooks the meandering Brisbane River and South Bank Parklands.
早上9时 今天整天的活动范围集中在布里斯班南岸。 是时候吃个早餐,来到俯瞰蜿蜒流淌的布里 斯班河和南岸公园景观的Shore餐厅里来杯 咖啡和吃点东西。
11am So the closest beach is 40 minutes away? No worries – Brisbane went ahead and built its very own right in the heart of the city, blending palm trees, real sand and cocktail bars with the modern city skyline. That’s right – along the riverside you’ll find a large man-made beach, and it has more bells and whistles than an actual beach. The
sparkling lagoon is surrounded by white sand, native plants and children’s play areas, and it’s patrolled by lifeguards year-round.
早上11时 最近的海滩要40分钟的路程?不要紧。在市 中心内有个人造海滩沿河而建,这里有青葱 的林荫草地、真海沙、鸡尾酒酒吧以及现代 城市的天际线。波光粼粼的湖畔被白色的海 沙环绕着,还有澳大利亚本土的植物和儿童 游乐区,一年四季都有救生员在这里看守着。 这是个没有海岸线却同样动人的城市海滩。
2pm Just a short walk along the riverside in South Bank you’ll stumble across the Queensland Art Gallery and Queensland Gallery of Modern Art. These spaces are Queensland’s premier visual arts
5pm Unwind with an early cocktail or two by the beach (just imagine it’s not artificial for now) at Cove Bar, a small, open bar that whips up creative and refreshing drinks, such as the espresso martini. With views of the city, the Story Bridge (Brisbane’s impressive heritage-listed bridge spanning the river) and the Parklands Beach, there are few better locations to relax and soak in the laid-back Australian vibes.
下午5时 到位于海滩旁边的Cove酒吧来杯餐前鸡尾 酒(想象自己不是在人造海滩上),这里提 供一些极具创意的酒款如咖啡马提尼,并且 饱览城市美景、故事桥(Story Bridge)和 公园海滩。
7pm You surely can’t leave Brisbane without some luxury dining to cap it all off. Stokehouse Q, a fine dining seafood restaurant perched right on the
48 HOURS
ALFRED & CONSTANCE HAS FOUR DIFFERENTLY THEMED ROOMS TO CHOOSE FROM
45 Brisbane River, is the perfect place to enjoy some of the best food Queensland has to offer while enjoying a golden Queensland sunset. With dishes such as fresh roasted barramundi with shaved squid and sheep’s milk yoghurt, there’s not much more you could need.
下午7时 您绝对不能在离开布里斯班前却没有体验过 这里的高端餐饮。坐落于布里斯班河畔的 Stokehouse Q是一家高级海鲜餐厅,让您一 边欣赏金色的日落,一边享用昆士兰最美味 的佳肴。品尝过他们家新鲜烤制的澳洲肺鱼 配剥皮鱿鱼和羊奶兰巴后,再也不需要去其 他家餐厅用餐了。◆
Eat & sleep EAT 美食
Cove Bar
Emporium Hotel
4 Sidon Street, South Brisbane QLD 4101
For everything glitz and glamour, the
Campos Coffee
(07) 3844 3993
Emporium Hotel Brisbane is an award-
11 Wandoo St, Fortitude Valley QLD 4006
winning luxury boutique that offers
(07) 3252 3612
Stokehouse Q
unabashed sophistication and style.
Sidon St, South Bank QLD 4101
With all the bells and whistles you’d
Alfred & Constance
(07) 3020 0600
expect, the Emporium is minutes away
130 Constance St, Fortitude Valley QLD 4006
SLEEP 住宿
from the CBD and situated in the heart of Fortitude Valley. emporiumhotel.com.au
(07) 3251 6500 Pullman Brisbane Kerbside Bar
Slick and modern. The Pullman Brisbane
Marriott Hotel
Constance St (Ann St end),
has been newly updated and renovated,
Brisbane Marriott is one of the premier
Fortitude Valley QLD 4006
making it the best five-star hotel in
Brisbane Hotels. With elegant rooms and
(07) 3252 9833
Brisbane. If you’re after high-end luxury
conference meeting venues, the Marriott
right in the heart of the city, you can’t The Shore Restaurant
offers stunning skyline views – along with
go wrong.
South Bank, QLD 4101
a first-class restaurant and bar in which to
pullmanbrisbanekgs.com.au
get lost. marriott.com
(07) 3846 4036
VIEWPOINT 46
度假胜地— 塔斯马尼亚 潘华 胡玫 虽与澳洲大陆的土著同出一源,但在社会发 展上要更落后些。西方殖民者大肆侵入塔 斯马尼亚后,他们把原住民看作是类人猿和 人类之间的过渡生物而加以残酷屠杀,随便 开枪打死土著居民来喂他们 的猎狗,把土著居民排成队 练习打靶。英国殖民当局甚 至针对土著居民采取了有组 织、有预谋的集体屠杀和灭 绝政策。到1847年,土著居 民仅40人残存,1869年只剩 下男女两人,同年3月,最后 一个纯血统的土著男子死于霍乱性腹泄。仅 剩的一个名叫特鲁格尼尼的女子几次恳求英 国殖民当局在她死后不要解剖她的尸体。然 而,1876年她刚刚离世,英国人就立即把遗 体推进手术室,她的骨骼随之被陈列在霍巴 特博物馆,当我们吊唁这位土著女子的遗骸
“优美迷人的自然景色是塔 斯马尼亚最大的物质财富” 塔斯马尼亚州得天独厚的自然条件、保 存完整的历史遗址和丰富多彩的文艺活动使 她成为名副其实的度假圣地。(本文部分内 容取自于由胡玫、方腾在澳大利亚SBS国家 民族广播电台编播制作的系列节目《南方大 陆—澳大利亚》。)◆
Illustration: Anne Smith
澳
大利亚拥有一个占地仅7万 多平方公里,人口只有50多 万,却包容了一切美好事物 的岛屿,她那翠绿茂密的树 林,长年川流不息的河流,具有悠久历史的 古石屋,布满形态各异岩石的山脉,迷人的 大自然,能使你忘却世上的纷争和人间的烦 恼,仿佛置身于一处世外桃源,她就是度假 胜地——塔斯马尼亚州。 约10,000年以前,塔斯马尼亚并不是岛 屿,她与澳洲大陆相连。冰河时期后,溶雪 化成的水淹盖了交接之地,形成了巴斯海峡, 从此塔斯马尼亚就成了一个岛屿。 1642年12月1日,荷兰航海家塔斯曼首 次发现了该岛并以他的名字命名。130年后, 法国探险家弗莱斯勒船长也在该岛登陆,开 枪打死打伤数名无辜的原住民,这是西方人 对该岛居民的首次杀戮。塔斯马尼亚原住民
时,一个种族被残酷灭绝的忧伤历史就会浮 现在我们的眼前。 半个多世纪来的塔州一直被殖民者当成 流放重罪犯人的场所,亚瑟港监狱成为澳大 利亚最悲痛最令人缅怀的场所,小瀑布女子 监狱则是霍巴特最著名的女子监狱。在1828 年到1856年期间,有超过5000名女性以及 其子女被关押在这里。这些监狱记载了许多 难以忘怀的故事,值得后人去寻访。 塔斯马尼亚是探索澳洲历史最佳的地方, 她保留着众多的古迹和文物,其中包括大量 的十五世纪以来的建筑,如:石桥、教堂、 仓库、营房、监狱等等。在塔州甚至还保存 了被称为“锡龙的足迹”的华裔矿工遗址。 久远的历史,精巧的设计,多姿的建筑无不 令人叹为观止,仿佛走进了时光隧道,坠入 了300年前的历史长河。 优美迷人的自然景色是塔斯马尼亚最大 的物质财富,全州被群山环抱,众多的山 峦并非以高峭险峻著称,也不以气势磅礴 出名,而是形态奇特别具一格。不论是在 山丘还是峡谷,往往会看到突然隆起的一座 座高山,有像玉屏风,金字塔,还有像大水 牛,老人头等,形象逼真,巧妙无比,堪称 一绝。全州几乎没有平原,很多湖泊位于中 部高山之上,湖水从空中以雷霆万钧之势澎 湃而下,壮观万分。塔州四周是海,绵长的 海岸构画出动人心弦的美妙曲线令人陶醉, 海洋中丰富的渔业资源更是享誉世界,其中 的海贝是海中珍品,驰名全球,南岛的大龙 虾,只只生猛活蹦乱跳,北岛的三文鱼条条 鲜美,又嫩又爽,诱人的海鲜令各国食客流 连忘返。塔斯马尼亚州号称苹果州,其中的 红苹果品种一流,香甜沁人,产量为全澳之 冠。由苹果酿成的苹果酸汁则是塔州著名的 饮料产品,富有滋补强身的功能。 在文化艺术方面,塔州有一个世界级的 交响乐团、一个岛屿文化节和一个庆祝与南 极联系的隆冬节。1834年在霍巴特建成的 皇家剧院是澳大利亚最古老的剧场,1972 年曾举行过塔斯马尼亚州的第一届艺术节。 塔斯马尼亚人的文化生活非常活跃,州内拥 有许多业余乐团、合唱团和定期换演剧目的 剧团。
48 TA S M A N I A
W A L K ON TH E
WILD SIDE 美不胜收的大自然、无与伦比的豪华体验以 及让人惊叹的建筑:塔斯马尼亚的火焰湾之 旅让您一次过拥有各式各样的旅游体验
Untouched nature, unmatched luxury and unbelievable architecture: Tasmania’s Bay of Fires Walk is a smorgasbord of travel experiences Words by Lisa Perkovic
TA S M A N I A
野外漫步
49
TA S M A N I A 50
O
Beach bliss THERE’S NO ESCAPING THE SERENITY OF THE BEACH ALONG THE BAY OF FIRES WALK
n a crisp Tasmanian morning the sky is a sharp periwinkle blue, the sand is a soft silica white and the beach is completely empty. Not a single footprint disturbs the long stretch of sand. The Bay of Fires Lodge Walk takes you to the end of the Earth – or at least that’s how it feels when there are no other people as far as the eye can see. Just a few hours’ drive from Launceston but a world away from civilisation, this windswept stretch of coastline sits on the edge of Mt William National Park in Tasmania’s north-east. The lichen-covered boulders scattered along the sand are bright splashes of orange on an otherwise neutral palette – the common misconception is that the fire-coloured rocks gave the Bay its name. That’s not the case. The bay was actually named in 1773 by Captain Tobias Furneaux, who saw fires burning beyond the beach. According to our guides, Furneaux’s fires were the result of backburning by the local Aboriginals. The romance of the name suits. This is just one of many stories our guides will tell us over the course of four leisurely days walking along the beaches and bays between Boulder Point and Abbotsbury Beach. An Australian and an American, they’re both
在
一个清爽的清 晨,塔斯马尼亚 拥有着纯净蔚蓝 的天空,净白的海沙以及 杳无人烟的海滩。绵长的 海滩上连一只脚印也没有, 火焰湾之旅(Bay of Fires Lodge Walk)带领您走到 世界的尽头——至少在视 线范围之内没有人的情况 下是这样子的感觉。 距朗赛斯顿(Launceston)只需几个小时车 程,便来到位于塔斯马尼 亚东北面威廉山国家公园 边上的这个远离烦嚣、海 风吹拂、让人身心舒畅的 海岸线。很多人误解火焰 湾名字的由来是因为分布 在海边的橘红色花岗岩大 石,其实并不然,真正的 原因来源于1773年时队 长Tobias Furneaux来到这 里,看到海岸线上有多处 篝火,便将此地命名为火 焰湾。根据我们导游的说 法,Furneaux所看到的篝 火是土著人点燃的。 这只是我们的导游在
整个长达四天从Boulder Point至Abbotsbury海滩 的悠闲徒步之旅中所分享 的故事中的其中一个。他 们分别来自澳大利亚和 美国,两人都是二十来 岁,对地质学和生态学充 满热情。不用上班的日子 他们喜欢去爬山,或是 在一些研究项目中当义工。 火焰湾之旅中他们背着一 个大背包,里面装满了我 们需用的食物以及大量 的水。在大风雨的日子, 他们爬到一块巨大的石头 上,用野营炉把水烧开给 我们弄热茶喝,这个举动 是很危险的,可是他们希 望确保每个人都能够保持 温暖。 在雨中行走并不是个 奢华惬意的体验,可是当 您在偏僻的地方,一边是 海滩,另外一边是丛林时, 手中能够捧着一杯新鲜冲 泡的热茶,一边喝着一边 走路,这是一种非常特别 的体验。 这个特别的“下午茶”
TA S M A N I A 51
“绵长的海滩上连一只脚 印也没有,火焰湾之旅带 领您走到世界的尽头”
On fire CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BAY OF FIRES LODGE; SUNSET DINNER; BEACH AT TWILIGHT; BRIGHT ORANGE ROCKS; LODGE BY NIGHT; SPA TREATMENT; AND STUNNING VIEWS FROM THE GUEST ROOM
TA S M A N I A 52
Picture perfect WHAT BETTER WAY TO WAKE UP THAN WITH A MORNING STROLL ALONG A PRISTINE COASTLINE?
in their 20s and full of an inspiring passion for geology and ecology. They go hiking on their days off and assist unpaid in research projects around the state. They carry all our fresh food, along with extra water in big backpacks all the way to the Bay of Fires Lodge. On a blustery day, when rain spits down and the waves threaten to touch the edge of our afternoon tea stop, they climb atop a boulder to put water on the boil in a camping stove. It’s precarious, but they’re determined to make sure everyone stays warm with a steaming cup of tea.
ALL IN ONE Walking in the rain might not sound like a luxury experience, but when you’re in the middle of nowhere, with beach on one side and bushland on the other, a freshly boiled cup of tea to wrap your hands around and sip on as you stroll along is something special. This afternoon tea, just a few hours into the journey, sets the tone for the Bay of Fires Lodge Walk. Like a cup of tea in the rain, the walk is an experience in contrasts: wild nature, award-winning architecture, sleeping bags, steaming foot baths.
为火焰湾之旅定下了基调。 就像一杯在雨中的热茶一 样,这次旅程是个充满对 比反差的体验——野外大 自然、屡获殊荣的建筑、 睡袋、蒸脚浴。 第一个晚上我们住在福 利斯特海滩野营(Forester Beach Camp),营内 虽然只拥有基本配套设施, 可是邻近海滩的地理位置 以及海浪声伴随着入睡的 体验是无价的。 其中最奢华的是优越 的地理位置。宁静的海滩, 与世隔离却不孤单。外面 没有任何其他活动,没有 选择之下只好拥抱大自然。 您可以去看、去听、去感 受,甚至去品尝它。螃蟹 在沙滩上乱窜、鸟儿在空 中飞舞、脚底下踏着软绵 海沙,还有导游在经过 随手摘下来的菠菜。这趟 徒步之旅充满了各种的感 官享受。
走在海滩上的曼妙之处 是您不需要担心地形,绵 长海滩平坦得连鞋子也脱 落。午间游泳只需放下背 包,走到海中任由冰冷的 海浪轻拍您的身体。 我们离开海滩的唯一原 因是转个角度看风景而已。 一天早晨我们往内陆的方 向走,两旁的灌木高耸入 云,突然看见一个“有袋 动物的草坪”在我们面前。 在这片长满苔藓的空地 出没的有小袋鼠、袋熊, 甚至是袋獾。我们的到访 吓着了一只正在吃早餐的 沙袋鼠,我们绕着空地的 边缘走时,它一边用力地 咀嚼。 这些动物虽然并不熟悉 人类,可是它们也不会受 惊惶。我们虽然没有遇见 罕有的袋獾,可是偶然发 现了它们留在地上的脚印。 第三天当我们沿着安森 河(Anson River)岸漫步
“ T H E B AY O F F I R E S L O D G E WA L K TA K E S Y O U E A R T H – O R AT L E A S T T H AT ’ S H O W I T F E E L S ”
TA S M A N I A
TO THE END OF THE
53
TA S M A N I A 54
Guided tour TOUR GUIDES ARE EXPERTS IN THE NATURAL FLORA AND FAUNA (ABOVE); AFTERNOONS ARE BEST SPENT RELA XING YOUR LEGS ON THE DECK LOUNGE OR BATH (RIGHT)
There are raw elements to this adventure. We carry our own clothing and water. If it rains, we get wet. The first night’s accommodation, the semi-permanent Forester Beach Camp, has basic amenities, but the beachside location and the sound of the waves as you drift off to sleep are priceless. The real luxury is the location. Isolated yet never lonely, the beach is quiet. There are no distractions out here. You have no choice but to embrace nature; to look, listen, feel, even taste it. Crabs scurrying across the beach, birds calling on the wind, the sand between your toes, the native spinach the guides pluck while passing plants; the walk takes over all your senses. The beauty of walking along a beach is that you’re not worried about terrain. On some stretches the beach is so flat our boots come off. A lunchtime swim is a matter of dropping your backpack on the sand and bracing for the cold slap of a wave rolling in.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK The rare instances we veer off the beach are just for a change of scenery. Early one morning we head inland, walking a narrow dirt track where the shrubs rise high on either
的时候经过在高高的树冠 上的一个巨型老鹰的巢穴, 我们便在阿伯茨伯里半岛 (Abbotsbury Peninsula)上 观看这个巢穴。这里蕴藏 着许许多多的生命,比如 在阳光下发着闪闪彩光的 鲍鱼壳,漂亮到让人有去 收集它们的冲动,不过我 们只是观察者,我们拿走 的是回忆而不是纪念品。 塔斯马尼亚徒步之 旅(Tasmanian Walking Company)致力提供可 持续发展的生态旅游,储 水箱为营地和旅舍提供水 源、弃掉的食物直接运到 旅舍内的鸡场用作饲料及 肥料,淋浴间所提供的是 环保肥皂和洗发精。可是 这一切保护环境的举动 并不代表需要牺牲物质的 享受。 在一个又湿又大风的夜 晚,我们聚集在福利斯特 野营(Foresters Camp) 的帐篷内,这个帐篷既是
个厨房、储藏室,也是个 用餐室。大帐篷和木地板 把大风和寒冷的天气挡在 外面,启动燃气灶和电磁 炉,帐篷内很快便变得温 暖起来。来杯产至塔斯马 尼亚的皮诺(Pinot)也会 对暖身也有帮助。 端到您面前的是热腾 腾的晚餐——炭烧本地鲑 鱼配姜汁海带和荞麦面沙 拉。走了一整天后在帐篷 内享受滋味的晚餐确实恰 意,我们要做的只是坐着, 一边品尝免费的塔斯马尼 亚的葡萄酒一边等待晚餐。 甜品是黑巧克力慕斯,导 游叮嘱我们一定要把它吃 完,因为我们需要大量的 体力来进行余下几天的行 程。一天的探索、盛载着 满满美食的肚子、几杯葡 萄酒,以及不绝于耳的海 浪声,不需要五星级的酒 店大床也能睡得很香很甜。 第二天晚上我们来到 火焰湾旅馆(Bay of Fires
The Bay of Fires Lodge Walk departs every day between October 1 and May 1. Walks are limited to 10 people and depart from Quamby Estate, 25mins' drive from Launceston. The Tasmanian Walking Company has a complimentary shuttle from hotels in Launceston.
bayoffires.com.au
TA S M A N I A
Getting there
55
“丛林间隐藏了澳大利 亚最壮观的浴缸,设在 户外的环境之中,与林 木线成一水平线”
56 TA S M A N I A
A celebratory drop
TA S M A N I A
The fourth and final day concludes with a visit to Apogee, Dr Andrew Pirie’s boutique winery. The passion project for Pirie, who founded renowned winery Piper’s Brook, is producing limited release pinot gris and sparkling wine with a top-notch reputation. Tasmanian climate is similar to the Champagne region in France – “Apogee” means pinnacle, the best of the best, and Pirie is committed to producing the best. The small cellar door is open exclusively to Bay of Fires Lodge Walk guests, and popping open a bottle of the sparkling wine is a fitting end to a very special few days.
57
side. Suddenly ‘marsupial lawns’ open up in front of us. The moss-covered clearings are kept manicured by wallabies, wombats – even a Tasmanian Devil or two – feeding off the plants, insects and smaller marsupials who call the fields home. We startle a wallaby eating breakfast. He keeps munching as we skirt the edge of the clearing. The animals are not used to humans but they’re definitely not terrified either. We don’t see the elusive Tasmanian Devils, but do stumble across fresh tracks of “a big fellow,” according to the guides. During a leisurely paddle along the Anson River on day three we drift past gigantic sea-eagle nests straddling Lodge),这是整个旅程 the tree branches high in the canopy and 的重头戏。这座让人惊叹 skirt around the nesting dunes on Abbotsbury 的建筑融入到丛林之中, Peninsula. There’s plenty of life out here – it’s 我们的大阳台位于距离海 very clear we’re observers. We take memories, 面40米处。 not mementos, resisting the urge to pick up 主客厅有三面落地 colourful abalone shells that glint in the sun. 玻璃,可俯瞰塔斯曼海 Tasmanian Walking Company’s commitment (Tasman Sea)和灌木丛 to sustainable eco-travel is an underpinning 林。在休息室内设有巨型 ethos for the walk. Water tanks provide 火炉,我们每个晚上都会 water for the camp and lodge; food waste is 聚集在那边聊天、玩乐。 sent straight to the lodge chickens and the 客房跟休息室并行,床后 compost; and environmentally friendly soap 有几道大型窗户,每晚抬 and shampoo are provided in the showers. You 头便看到满天的星星。 don’t have to sacrifice your creature comforts. 旅馆的主题是把室外的 On a wet, windy night at Foresters Camp, we 环境带进室内。2013年开 strip off our Gore-Tex jackets and gather in the 设了日间水疗所,坐落于 tent that doubles as kitchen, pantry and dining 悬崖边上的一动独立建筑 room. The marquee’s walls and wooden floors 物里,他们家的护理疗程
Rest and recover THE BAY OF FIRES LODGE MAIN PAVILION BOASTS PANORAMIC VIEWS (TOP LEFT); AND THE LODGE’S LUXURY SPA (TOP RIGHT)
不容错过。理疗师Celia为 您进行按摩,承诺为您纾 解一切疲累,让您感觉无 比的轻松。 再来就是泡澡。丛林间 隐藏了澳大利亚最壮观的 浴缸,设在户外的环境之 中,与林木线成一水平线, 海风吹散上腾的热气。浴 缸内注满澳大利亚的各种 花朵和浆果。半个小时悄 然便过去,期间会有飞鸟 在空中飞过,甚至有沙袋 鼠在眼前经过。 火焰湾之旅被列为澳大 利亚最佳徒步旅程之一。 在澳大利亚能为您提供海 滩、丛林和奢华的体验非 它莫属。◆
“A BLISSFUL H A L F - H O U R PA S S E S B Y S L O W LY; B I R D S F LY PA S T A N D M AY B E E V E N A TA S M A N I A
WA L L A B Y H O P S B Y ”
58
keep out the wind and cold. With the gas stove and hot plates on, it’s soon warm and toasty. A glass of Tasmanian pinot helps too. Dinner is plated up piping hot – locally farmed salmon, seared on the BBQ, with a ginger seaweed and buckwheat noodle salad. Whipping up a delicate, locally sourced meal in a tent after a day of hiking is quiet a feat – all we do is sit and enjoy the complimentary Tasmanian wine. Dessert is a decadent dark chocolate mousse, which the guides insist be eaten as we’ll need our energy for the day ahead. A day of exercise, full bellies, a few wines, the sound of the sea and everyone sleeps soundly – even without a five-star hotel bed.
FINAL DESTINATION By the end of day two, we arrive at the Bay of Fires Lodge. The piece de resistance of the walk, this architectural marvel blends into the bushland – unless you’re on the beach directly below, from where we just make out its large balcony and timber walls perched 40m above the sea. The main pavilion opens on three sides, floor-to-ceiling windows looking straight out on the Tasman Sea and the bush. A large fireplace in the lounge room draws us in each night – we pull our chairs closer to warm and nibble on Tasmanian brie before
dinner, then enjoy nightcaps and a heated game of charades by the dying embers. Guest rooms run parallel to the lodge; encased in wood with huge windows directly behind the bed, you look straight up into the stars each night. Bringing the outside in is a theme that carries throughout the lodge. In 2013 a day spa was added to the property – it sits just beyond the main lodge in a separate pavilion tucked into the cliffside. Hidden in the trees until you’re almost right on top of it, a visit to the spa is a must. Spa therapist Celia promises to make you feel like you’ve never put on a backpack, with a remedial massage that does just that – aches and pains vanish. Then there’s the bath. Down past the spa and through the bushes lies one of Australia’s most spectacular bathtubs. Perched on an open-air platform, this deep tub sits level with the treeline. Steam rises and is whisked away on the sea breeze. Baths are drawn and filled with native Australian flowers and berries. A blissful half-hour passes slowly, birds flying past and maybe even a wallaby hopping by. The Bay of Fires Lodge Walk earns its spot on the Great Walks of Australia. If there was ever an Aussie experience that gives you a taste of beach, bushland and bliss, this is it. ◆
Opposites attract LUXURY MEETS ISOLATION ALONG THE BAY OF FIRES
Luxury TRUE NORTH Adventure Adventure Cruises Luxury Adventure Cruises
An adventure on the TRUE NORTH is one of Australia’s most revered holidays! Bigger ships cannot go where we go! Extended periods at sea are specifically excluded and daily activities can include scenic walks, fishing, snorkelling, diving, scenic flights in the ship’s helicopter and cultural events. We deploy comfortable expedition boats (not rubber boats) and discover wilderness in small groups. An AUSTRALIAN crew uniquely chaperones every experience. Beware of imitations and discover for yourself why our guests consistently remark “that’s the best holiday I have ever had!” Each year in December – a very select group of adventurers embark on the TRUE NORTH to explore the rarely visited Louisiade Archipelago. They snorkel over WW II wrecks, hike on Jurassic like islands, battle marauding mackerels and dive on the aptly named Fish City! This year’s special guest is renowned underwater photographer Darren Jew. Cruise includes private jet transfer ex Cairns. Don’t miss this opportunity to discover the secrets of underwater photography – cabins are limited, book now!
North Star Cruises Australia Tel: (+61 8) 9192 1829 Email: cruise@northstarcruises.com.au www.northstarcruises.com.au
Twenty Five Years of Adventure
60 SHANGHAI
A tall story Much of Shanghai’s past can be seen in its historic concessions on The Bund’s west bank. But the future of this fast-paced city lies east of the river... Words Adrian Mourby
建在云端
Photo by Zorazhuang / Getty Images
上海过去的历史文化在曾为租界区的外滩西 岸被展示得淋漓尽致。可是这个拥有快节奏 的城市的未来却落在江河的东面
SHANGHAI
Photo by XiXinXing / Getty Images
62
T
Light it up! SHANGHAI’S SKYLINE (LEFT) IS LIT UP BY THOUSANDS OF BUILDING LIGHTS
he name Shanghai translates into English as ‘above the sea’ but – for the last century, at least – its name really should mean ‘ahead of the times’, because this busy trading city has for so long been synonymous with modern architecture. It still has more Art Deco buildings than any other city in the world, and the recent economic growth of China has accelerated this building spree. Nowhere is this more visible than in Pudong, the area east across the Huangpu River from the Bund. As many have observed, in the last 20 years rural Pudong has moved from Chinese farmland to the Chinese Dubai. These days its most readily recognised building is probably the Shanghai World Financial Center on Century Avenue. With its trapezoid aperture giving the impression of a giant bottle opener, the building was designed by Kohn Pedersen Fox of New York. The shape of the aperture had to be altered early on with many, including the mayor of Shanghai, wanting the circle in the middle of building to be changed to a square. Fortunately, the redesign has made the building so distinctive and memorable
上
海这个名字翻 译成英文的意思 是“在海上”, 可是一个世纪下来这个繁 忙的商业城市掘起了许多 现代建筑,因此应该称之 为“走在时代的前沿”。 同时她还拥有着世界上最 多富有装饰风艺术风格的 建筑,中国近期经济增长 也加速了这一方面的建设 热潮。没有任何地方比浦 东更能代表着这股热潮, 特别是外滩黄浦江以东的 地区。很多人已经察觉到 在过去的二十年,浦东区 已从中国农田演变成为中 国迪拜。 今天,最容易识辨的建 筑非上海环球金融中心莫 属。由纽约建筑设计事务 所Kohn Pedersen Fox设 计,建築物的頂端設有一 個巨型的環狀倒梯形开口, 形如巨型的开瓶器。原设 计方案之所以被修改,是 因为许多民众,甚至上海 市长也认为原设计太像日
本国旗中的日之丸。幸而 新的设计让整座建筑更特 别而且更加让人印象深刻。 上海环球金融中心于 2008年竣工,高度为492 米/1614英尺,成为当 时中国最高的建筑。而到 2015年它是中国第三高楼 及世界第七高楼。这栋摩 天大楼共有101层,三个 观景台、集办公室、会议 室、购物中心以及酒店于 一体的综合型大厦,其中 第79至93层便是五星级的 柏悦酒店。 不过要是比较高度的 话,邻近的上海中心大厦 则更胜一筹。这栋摩天大 楼目前是中国最高、世界 第二高的建筑,高632米。 上海中心大厦由美国建筑 公司Gensler,中国建筑 师夏军领衔设计,大厦由 九个圆柱形建筑彼此叠加 构成,共121层,使用双 层玻璃幕墙结构,内层是 全封闭的,而外观呈螺旋 式上升。两层幕墙之间形
“THIS BUSY TRADING CITY HAS FOR SO LONG BEEN SYNONYMOUS ARCHITECTURE”
SHANGHAI
WITH MODERN
Photo by Yongyuan Dai / Getty Images
63
SHANGHAI 64
Past and present SHANGHAI MAY BE LEADING THE WAY IN MODERN ARCHITECTURE BUT IT IS ALSO STEEPED IN HISTORY WITH PLENTY OF ART DECO BUILDINGS
成的空间划分成九个室内 区域,设有中庭、公共花 园、咖啡馆、餐馆及零售 空间。上海中心大厦预计 今年夏天竣工,大厦内还 设有办公楼以及27层的全 新J酒店,建成后将会成为 全世界最高的酒店。 上海环球金融中心、上 海中心大厦以及金茂大 厦比邻而居,成为全球 第一个集中摩天大楼的地 区。88层高的金茂大厦是 三栋大楼里最老的一栋。 于1999年建成,由美国芝 加哥设计事务所Skidmore, Owings & Merrill设计。建 筑外形结构巧妙地融合了 中国传统文化以及30年代 纽约艺术装饰摩天大楼的 元素,而内部建筑跟中国 文化中的吉祥数字“8”有 关。总高88层(88代表幸 运与财富),分为16节, 第一节外墙楼高16层,其 上每节减少1/8。还有大厦 八角形的设计以及以两组8 根支柱支撑着。大厦里最 惊人的内部空间是第56至 87层的拱形中庭,而环绕 中庭的为建于第53至87层 的君悦大酒店。从88层观 光厅能俯瞰城市的壮丽景 观,让人终身难忘。不出 所料,观光厅的入场费也 是跟“8”有关——88块
人民币。 东方明珠广播电视塔 是首个出现的建筑让浦东 被公认为一个既新鲜又特 别的地区。感觉上拥有悠 久历史的电视塔其实是于 1994年落成,位于世纪大 道1号,由上海现代建筑 设计公司的三名建筑师设 计,在环球金融中心还没 建成之前是中国的最高建 筑,总高468米(1,535英 尺)。其既怀旧(1950年 代)又富有未来主义的风 格让它今天成为外滩壮观 的摩天大楼群的一部分, 特别是在夜晚万灯齐放时 格外的迷人。虽然电视塔 许多年来不乏批评者,可 是时至今日它已成为上海 的地标性建筑之一。 它除了是一家电视台以 外,还拥有15个观光层, 最高的观光层(被称为太 空舱位)位于1,148英尺, 更设有玻璃悬空观光平台。 位处876英尺的是一家旋 转餐厅,还有一个被称为 太空酒店的20间客房在两 个大球之间。跟其他的摩 天大楼一样,东方明珠塔 中的低层还包含展览和购 物等其他功能。 不过浦东区新的一切不 尽是高耸入云的大楼。建 筑外形像一层层向上抛起
SHANGHAI
“这栋摩天大楼目前是 中国最高,世界第二 高的建筑”
Photo by ViewStock / Getty Images
Photo by George Clerk / Getty Images
that the wheel has turned full circle and you can now buy bottle openers that resemble the Shanghai World Financial Center. This lofty mixed-use skyscraper was completed in 2008 and rises to a height of 492m, making it the tallest building in China at its time, and (as of 2015) the third-highest in China and the seventh-highest in the world. It has 101 floors, three observation decks, and contains offices, conference rooms, a shopping mall and the Park Hyatt Hotel which occupies floors 79 to 93. Taller still, however, is the adjacent Shanghai Tower. At 632m, it’s currently China’s tallest structure and the secondhighest in the world. The Shanghai Tower was designed by the American architectural firm Gensler, with Chinese architect Jun Xia leading the team. It’s actually comprised of nine cylindrical buildings stacked on top of each other to create a total of 121 floors. Everything is then enclosed by an inner layer of glass, which in turn is encased in a twisting outer layer of glass, giving the building its unique appearance. The size of the structure is demonstrated by the fact that between the inner and outer casings there is enough space for nine indoor zones with atriums, public gardens, cafes, restaurants and retail space. The tower has just opened and contains offices and a new 27-floor J-hotel, which will be the tallest hotel in the world at the time of its unveiling. Together, with the nearby Jin Mao Tower, these two buildings make up the world’s first cluster of “supertall” skyscrapers. At only 88 storeys Jin Mao Tower is the oldest of the three. It was opened in 1999, having been designed by the Chicago firm of Skidmore, Owings & Merrill. The external structure references both the tiered pagodas of imperial China and the Art Deco skyscrapers of 1930s New York. Internally, the architects worked with the highly auspicious Chinese number eight. There are 88 floors (88 symbolises fortune and good luck) and the whole structure is divided into 16 segments, each of which is 1/8 shorter than the base – which is itself 16 storeys tall. Moreover, the core of the tower is octagonal, surrounded by two groups of eight exterior columns. One of the most daring features of the building is a vaulted atrium, which runs between floors 56 and 87. Around this 32-storey void the Park Hyatt Hotel has been built on floors 53 to 87. The view down through the atrium from the Skywalk observation deck on the 88th
65
DEFINED PUDONG AS SOMEWHERE NEW
SHANGHAI
AND SPECIAL”
66
Sports star THE ORIENTAL SPORTS CENTER IN SHANGHAI WAS COMPLETED IN 2010
floor is vertiginous and unforgettable. Not surprisingly, the price of admission to the Skywalk is 88 RMB. The building that first defined Pudong as somewhere new and special was the Oriental Pearl Radio & TV Tower, which was completed back in what now feels like ancient history – but was in fact 1994. It stands at the beginning of Century Avenue and was designed by three architects from Shanghai Modern Architectural Design. At 468m this was the tallest structure in China until the completion of the World Financial Center. Today its retro 1950s futurism offers a magnificent sight from the Bund, particularly when illuminated at night. Although the pioneering tower was not without its detractors for many years, it is now accepted as one of the defining symbols of Shanghai.
As well as its broadcasting role, the tower has 15 observatory levels. The highest (known as the Space Module) is 350m and has an impressive exterior glass-floored area for those who don’t suffer vertigo. There’s also a revolving restaurant at 267m and a 20-room hotel called the Space Hotel between the two large red-rimmed spheres. Like so many of these skyscrapers, the Oriental Pearl Tower also has exhibition facilities and retail space on the lower floors. Not everything new in Pudong scrapes the clouds, however. The Shanghai Oriental Sports Center, whose exterior walls resemble white sails in the wind, opened in July 2011 for the FINA World Swimming Championships. It was built on a brownfield industrial site alongside the Huangpu River. The architects were a German-based company working with a mixed European and Chinese team. They enclosed a stadium, natatorium (swimming hall), outdoor swimming pool and 15-floor media centre within this delicate complex, which was designed for multipurpose usage – boxing matches, basketball, badminton, ice-hockey matches and concerts – after the Swimming
Photo by Christian Petersen-Clausen / Getty Images
“THE BUILDING FIRST
Photo by Jean-Pierre Lescourret / Getty Images
的波浪和白帆的上海东方 国红木为建筑材料,同时 体育中心,位于上海美丽 也能展示现代艺术风格以 的黄浦江畔,于2011年7 及保留原有的工厂遗迹。 月开幕举办国际泳联世界 园内的跌瀑水墙和层层梯 锦标赛。体育中心由总部 田用以供氧给营养丰富的 位于德国的建筑公司,里 水以及减少悬浮沉积物。 面的欧洲和中国的团队设 纵然这些并不算得上是高 计,中心内包括了体育馆、 科技,可是曾经看起来不 游泳馆、户外游泳池以及 顺眼的工厂现在已成为散 共有15层的媒体中心,游 步的好地方,更巧妙地改 泳世锦赛之后变成了多功 善了黄浦江的防洪问题。 能用途的场地,包括举行 苹果位于上海世纪 拳击比赛、篮球、羽毛球、 大 道 的 专 卖 店 最 近 开 幕 冰球比赛和音乐会。建筑 (中国首家),由Bohlin 群的设计以水为主题,大 Cywinski Jackson设计。 部分的场馆均坐落于人工 苹果的设计为一座圆筒状 岛之上。 的玻璃建筑,中间有旋转 原为钢铁厂和船舶修 的玻璃楼梯走进店里,证 理厂的后滩公园,位于黄 明了在上海一些最棒的建 浦江岸,为2010年上海世 筑也可以隐藏在地底下。 博园的核心绿地景观之一。 然而浦东的精髓还是 狭窄的公园长达1.7公里, 在于她的高度。随着夕阳 却只有30至80米宽,由北 西下,夜幕低垂,在这个 京的土人设计团队设计, 高楼云集的城市里找一家 建设了多个步行道以及种 拥有迷人景色的酒吧才 植园内地区,创建一个能 是体验浦东的魅力之最。 净化黄浦江水的生态系统。 其 实 , 今 天 的 上 海 名 为 将旧有的工厂变成一个全 “云端之上”才是最贴切 新的绿化园区,以竹和中 不过。 ◆
Championships were completed. In a playful nod to its original purpose, water was used as a connecting element between the various buildings, most of which stand on platforms within an artificial lake. On another former industrial site, Houtan Park has been constructed as a wetland alongside the Huangpu riverfront in what was previously the 2010 Shanghai Expo Park. This narrow site – 1.7km long but only 30 to 80m wide – previously
City icons THE ORIENTAL PEARL TV TOWER HAS BECOME A WORLD-RENOWNED SHANGHAI LANDMARK
T A L L E A T S 高空饕宴 Flair
Cloud 9
位于浦东丽思卡尔顿酒店58 层的Flair餐厅酒吧(上海国 金中心,世纪大道)可以饱览 明珠塔的美景。招牌饮料是 Crystal Blue Shanghai。
九重天(金茂大厦,世纪大 道)是上海金茂君悦酒店的 休闲酒吧,位于第87层,拥 有360度城市美景。被评为 上海最佳天空酒吧,九重天 的设计装潢既现代化又富有 神秘感。
Flair (Shanghai International Finance Centre, Century Avenue) on the 58th floor of the Ritz-Carlton Pudong, the bar’s terrace has a fantastic view towards the Pearl Tower. Its signature drink is the Crystal Blue Shanghai.
Cloud 9 (Jin Mao Tower, Century Avenue) on the 87th floor of the Grand Hyatt Shanghai has a 360-degree view of the city. It is one of Shanghai’s best sky lounges to have a drink at.
100 Century Avenue 世纪100餐厅酒吧(上海环球 金融中心)位于世界最高楼之 一的上海环球金融中心的91 层。一边享受美食一边俯瞰金 茂大厦以及东方明珠塔,实乃 人生一大快事。 100 Century Avenue (Shanghai World Financial Center) is a restaurant on the 91st floor. Enjoy a meal while looking down on Jin Mao Tower and the Oriental Pearl Tower.
Photo by ChinaFotoPress / Getty Images
SHANGHAI 68
Big apple THE FIRST APPLE STORE TO HIT SHANGHAI; AND CHINA, FOR THAT MATTER
supported a steel factory and shipyard and had subsequently been used for landfill. To convert it, the Beijing designers Turenscape created multiple walkways and planted the ground, treating it as a “living machine” that would improve the water quality from the Huangpu River. A hanging garden was cleverly improvised from the remains of a factory. Groves of bamboo and Chinese redwood trees have been
T A L L S L E E P S 高空安眠 Ritz Carlton Pudong
Shanghai Tower J-Hotel
Pudong Shangri-La
浦东丽思卡尔顿酒店(上海 国金中心 ritzcarlton.com) 拥有优雅的装饰艺术风格设 计,在其位于53层的游泳池 可俯瞰外滩以及东方明珠塔 全景。
坐落于上海中心大厦的 J酒店是锦江酒店集团 (hotels.jinjiang.com)的 一部分,该集团旗下还有位于 外滩的上海和平饭店。上海 中心大厦共有121层,今夏建 成后J酒店将成为世界上最高 的酒店。
浦东香格里拉大酒店(富城路 shangri-la.com)由两栋楼 组成,饱览黄浦江壮丽美景, 并且拥有10家餐厅、酒吧。
Ritz Carlton Pudong (Shanghai International Finance Centre, ritzcarlton.com) is Art Deco-inspired and has superb views of the Bund and Oriental Pearl Tower from its 53rd floor swimming pool.
Shanghai Tower J-Hotel is part of the Jin Jiang Group (hotels.jinjiang.com), the company who also run Shanghai's wonderful Peace Hotel on the Bund.
Pudong Shangri-La (Fucheng Road, shangri-la.com) consists of two dramatic towers overlooking the stunning Huangpu River. As well as rooms with some of the best views in the city it also has 10 food and beverage outlets for you to choose from.
“浦东区已从中国农田 演变成为中国迪拜” used to create an enclosure where modern art and industrial relics found on-site can be exhibited. Cascades and terraces were introduced to oxygenate the nutrient-rich water and reduce suspended sediments. It might be low-tech, but what was once an eyesore is now an attractive place to walk – and one that is also improving flood control on the Huangpu River. Shanghai’s recently unveiled Apple Store (China’s first, as it happens), designed by Bohlin Cywinski Jackson, is also on Century Avenue. Its circular descent within a glass tower shows that some of the best modern architecture in Shanghai can also lie underground. But the essence of Pudong remains height. As dusk approaches, the rush to be at a bar with a great view still defines the Pudong experience in this skyscraper city. In fact, it might be truer today to say that Shanghai’s name means ‘above the clouds.’ ◆
澳大利亚热带海滨奢华酒店
坐落于热带雨林和大堡礁之间
兰斯莫尔旁的阿拉曼达棕榈湾酒店在恭候您的光临
凭借绝美的海滨景色和1至4间卧室的套房 阿拉曼达适合单身旅行者到最大的家庭 所有客房为85平方米以上 并配有全套厨房 洗衣房 阳台和2间浴室 阿拉曼达必定 会满足您所有的预期 客房内备有中文概要
接待处提供语言翻译 我们还提供免费的旅游咨询台 您预订所有冒险和旅游活动
提到这则广告即可获得一瓶香槟
以及日落阳台阁的3小时预订 平线泳池和休息亭
以便为
阳台阁备有自己的地
直接通过电子邮件或电话预订 +617 4055 3000 palmcove@lancemore.com.au www.lancemore.com.au
MELBOURNE
STEPPING UP TO THE PLATE Melbourne’s top chefs know how to push Australian dining to a new level. We sat down with four of the city’s best to discover how they continue to innovate
饕餮盛宴 墨尔本的厨师们懂得怎样把澳大利亚餐饮提升至更高的境界。我们与最具 影响力的四位名厨促膝长谈,探讨他们对业界的影响以及如何创新不断 Words and photography Trent van der Jagt
VUE DE MONDE
MELBOURNE
Shannon Bennett
72
Arguably one of the best restaurants in Australia and sitting a lofty 55 floors above Melbourne, Vue De Monde’s reputation doesn’t disappoint. Shannon Bennett discusses his path to discovering Australian food culture, sustainable cooking and his vision for the future of Melbourne’s dining scene. Vue De Monde餐厅算得上是澳大利亚最棒的餐厅 之一,位于墨尔本55楼的高处。极具声望的Vue De Monde餐厅名不虚传。老板兼主厨Shannon Bennett 跟我们探讨自己探索澳大利亚饮食文化的过程、 “可持 续发展”烹饪模式以及他对墨尔本餐饮未来的愿景。
What where your early influences in food? I grew up in a very small town called Westmeadows in Victoria 餐厅是怎样开始的? in the early 80s. I was never Vue De Monde是关于 very good at Mandarin class so 对世界的观点,准确一点 I was given the option to go to 来说是我对世界的看法。 the girls’ school in the 我一直希望研发和展示法 neighbourhood and learn home 式烹调的讲究的技术。后 economics. There were only two 来我开始沉迷于食材的来 blokes in that class, myself and 源 地 , 从 而 开 始 了 采 用 Curtis Stone. We both went down 本地食材以及用菜色来述 to the girls’ school, looking 说维多利亚的故事。现在 forward to mingling with all 您是如何开始投身餐 则是着重于澳大利亚的味 the girls of course, but we both 饮界? 道、质感和感觉。这家餐 actually realised how much we 90年代初我在墨尔本君 厅已变成我发掘澳大利亚 enjoyed cooking. 悦酒店当了四年学徒,之 餐饮文化的地方。 How did you get started in the “ I ' M AT T E M P T I N G restaurant game? T O D I S C O V E R W H A T I did a four-year apprenticeship at the Grand Hyatt in Melbourne AUSTRALIAN FOOD in the early 90s and then went straight overseas to work with C U LT U R E I S " Marco Pierre White at his three 后 便 出 国 深 造 , 有 机 会 Vue De Monde 餐厅的 Michelin Star restaurant. 跟Marco Pierre White 目标是什么? I realised just how much I 一起在他荣获米其林三星 我 们 的 目 标 是 制 作 出 wanted to be like Marco in many 的 餐 厅 工 作 , 我 发 觉 希 您 在 家 里 不 能 做 的 菜 ways; mainly that I wanted to 望 自 己 在 许 多 方 面 能 跟 式,尽情享受餐厅的氛围 own my own restaurant, so I Marco一样。特别是我 以 及 墨 尔 本 的 景 观 , 以 headed back to Melbourne to 也希望拥有自己的餐厅, 及品尝以上乘的材料精心 start my career. Melbourne has 所以我回到了墨尔本开展 烹 制 而 成 的 佳 肴 。 always been my home. Even after 我的事业。一直以来墨尔 Vue De Monde不是 travelling and training for years, 本都是我的家。尽管多年 墨 守 成 规 的 餐 厅 , 没 有 I still love Melbourne. Being a 来在国外旅游和接受训 制 定 的 规 矩 , 您 在 这 里 chef has always been my path 练,我仍然爱着墨尔本这 能 尽 情 放 松 享 受 餐 饮 的 and I knew I wanted to bring my 所城市。成为厨师一直以 乐趣。◆ training home.
您对食物的热情是怎样开 始的? 在80年代初我生长在维多 利亚省的一个很小的城镇 叫Westmeadows。我 在学校的普通话课上表 现欠佳,所以老师让我 到附近的女校上家政课。 当时班上只有我和Curtis Stone两个男生,我们原 先打算到那边认识女生, 可是后来才发现自己是那 么的喜欢烹饪。
来都是我的理想,我想 把在外面学到的技能带 回家。
How did Vue de Monde come about? Vue de Monde is all about the view of the world or, more specifically, my view of the world. I always wanted to develop and showcase how skilful French cooking actually is. Over time I began to become fascinated by the origins of food and ingredients, which is when I started focusing on sourcing local ingredients and telling a story on the plate about local Victoria. Now it’s all about the Australian flavours, textures and feel. The restaurant has evolved into me attempting to discover what Australian food culture is. What are you trying to achieve with Vue de Monde? Our goal is to produce food that you can’t make at home and to make you feel aspirational in both the feel of the restaurant and the view over Melbourne; and for you to look down at your plate and see great ingredients, cooked really well and simply. We are trying to deliver a dish where the produce becomes the hero. Vue de Monde isn’t all about being uptight; there are no set rules. It’s a place where you can be completely relaxed in the dining experience. ◆
Rialto, 55/525 Collins Street, Melbourne VIC 3000, vuedemonde.com.au
MELBOURNE 73
Room with a Vue AT VUE DE MONDE, SHANNON BENNETT HAS FUSED FRENCH INFLUENCES WITH LOCAL PRODUCE
OM NOM
MELBOURNE
Christy Tania
74
With so many tapas bars and fine-dining restaurants in Melbourne, Christy Tania knew she needed to get involved in something different. Drawing inspiration from art and fine French techniques, Om Nom delivers some of Australia's most beautiful and complex desserts. 墨尔本拥有许多的小吃酒吧和高级餐厅,Christy Tania知道她需要创造另类的体验。灵感来自艺术品以 及精致的法国技术,Om Nom餐厅提供一些澳大利亚 最精致、最复杂的甜点。
您对食物的热情是怎样开 始的? 我在雅加达长大,16岁时 移居新加坡。新加坡很大 的程度被马来西亚、中国、 印度尼西亚和菲律宾影响, 因此新加坡美食也融合了 各地的风味。混合出来的 美食味道微妙并且带有许 多不同的味道,帮助我的 味蕾发展的更广泛。年轻 时,我积极参与艺术活动 如画画、作诗和粘土制作, 长大后我意识到可以把甜 点变成艺术。制作糕点需 要非常精准的技术,精准 度犹如工程师,这也是我 前往法国深造,接受专业 训练成为糕点师傅的原因。 为何会移居墨尔本? 我移居墨尔本的原因很简 单,就是因为认识了一位 男生。我在巴黎受训时遇 上了一个澳大利亚人。当 时我工作的地方巴黎丽兹 酒店要关门三年进行翻新 工程,所以我的男朋友便 问我是否愿意来澳大利亚 居住,我想了一想,为何 不呢?就这样便从此在澳 大利亚定居下来了。 Om Nom餐厅和Adelphi 酒店是怎样开始的? 在高级的环境里专门享用 甜品在墨尔本是一个新的 概念,幸好我自己也是一
个另类的甜品师傅。我们 当初并不知道这个点子行 不行得通,让客人专程去 餐厅吃甜点是一个风险很 高的概念。可是我觉得值 得冒这个险。墨尔本的餐 饮美食界比悉尼更多元化。 我们有东非菜、秘鲁菜, 甚至是我们的意大利菜也 比较发达。这里的创意和 风格基本上是无穷无尽的, 而且墨尔本的人似乎比较 愿意尝试新事物。只要您 是有实力的,便会找到跟 随者。 餐单上有许多极具创意的 甜品,创作灵感来自哪里? 每一季我都会推出不同的 款式。有些味道我知道混 合起来是好吃的,所以我 会挑选那些味道,然后开 始构思外观。但是两者次 序也可以倒过来。在我摆 盘前,当我脑海里想着那 种味道,已经会联想到颜 色、质感以及呈现的方式。 我们的主菜便是之前我拿 去澳洲版《厨艺大师》参 赛的芒果甜点。它是一道 非常复杂的甜品,需要很 多技巧。里面有泡芙、芒 果慕斯、芒果肉、椰汁珍 珠、白巧克力碎、酸柑雪 葩和椰子泡沫。至于摆盘 我喜欢呈现出神秘古怪的 感觉,让甜点在盘子里看 上去很“壮观”。◆
What were your early influences in food? When I was younger I was involved in a lot of arts such as painting, poetry and clay making, and eventually when I grew up I realised I could make desserts into an art too. Pastry is very precise, which means I’m sort of like an architect when it comes to dessert, and is why I decided to up and move to France to classically train as a pastry chef. How did you get involved with Om Nom and the Adelphi Hotel? The idea for a dessert-centric fine dining space was a different kind of concept here in Melbourne and fortunately I’m a bit of a different pastry chef myself. We didn’t know if this was going to work. The idea for a restaurant where people go just for dessert was a very risky concept. But it was a risk I thought was worth it. The gastronomy scene in Melbourne is a lot more diverse compared to Sydney. We have East African, Peruvian and even our Italian is much more developed. The ideas and styles here are basically endless and people in Melbourne seem to be more willing to try something new. If you’re good, you’ll find followers.
How does the creativity strike? I have different ideas and dishes for every season. There are some flavours I know are sure-fire combinations, so I’ll pick the flavour and then start to develop the look. But I can work both forward and backwards. When I think of the flavour, I start to think of the colours and the texture and the medium before I start to plate it. Our main dish is the mango alphonso, which I took to Masterchef Australia. It’s a complex dish with a lot of techniques. It has a Choux pastry, mango mousse, poached mango, coconut pearls, white chocolate crumble, kalamansi sorbet and coconut foam. I like to create everything in the style of mythical and quirky scenes to create a real spectacle on the plate. Have you seen the Melbourne dining scene evolve? The scene is completely different to the rest of the world. Having lived in four different countries I’ve seen a lot of different styles. In Melbourne there’s so much choice, and a lot of room to improve. People are willing to learn and to try. As a chef in Melbourne it can be a challenge to cater to so many types of people with different diets, although this forces me to learn new ways of preparing dishes. ◆
187 Flinders Ln, Melbourne VIC 3000 at the Adelphi Hotel, omnom kitchen, adelphi.com.au
MELBOURNE 75
Sweet dreams CHRISTY TANIA KNEW A RESTAURANT DEDICATED SOLELY TO DESSERTS WAS RISKY, BUT IT HAS PAID OFF
NO. 8 BY JOHN LAWSON MELBOURNE
John Lawson
76
John Lawson shares his love of Australian produce and hearty home cooking, and explains why high-end modern Australian cooking is still so popular in Melbourne. John Lawson与我们分享了他对澳大利亚出产的 热爱,丰盛的佳肴以及为何高端现代澳大利亚菜 在墨尔本仍然大受欢迎。
您曾经在许多世界级的餐 厅工作,是什么让您走上 厨师这条路? 这是一个很多波折的 长故事。长话短说, Le Manoir Aux Quat Saisons餐厅聘请了我, 在那里我与Raymond Blanc共事,后来一直 做到高级厨师主管,这是 我到目前为止工作上最 被启发的一段时间,直 到现在我还会回想过去找 灵感。几年后我移居到 纽约,跟Daniel Boulud 在他荣获米其林三星的餐 厅工作,我还参与在伦敦 Gordon Ramsey餐厅的 开张,之后在那里一直做 到副厨师长的职位。我 的签证到期后,Gordon 给我一个在墨尔本的职 位,负责Maze餐厅并且 在那里当主厨,我便来到 了这里。 您在No.8 by John Lawson餐厅以及皇冠 赌场所担任的是什么 角色? 这是一家开了很久的餐 厅,并且在墨尔本声名大 噪。可是我却常常看到 需要填补的位置,然后思 想我能在这个空缺中做 点什么。我在皇冠工作已 经有一段长时间,他们 最终把这个空缺给我。我
觉得我能把餐厅提升至更 高层次,并且认真地看 一下我们食材的来源地, 尽量采用本土出产的 食材。 为何本地出产和可持续性 对您而言那么重要? 这是我的信念并且希望 启发整组人共同带领餐厅 往前迈进。我受训时已 经选用当地出产,将其 发挥极致却不过于复杂 化,一直以来跟我的风格 相融合。烹饪一个持续 的学习过程,在维多利亚 有许多独特的出产物,让 厨师能创造出如此精妙 的菜谱。 您是如何看待墨尔本饮食 界的发展? 墨尔本的厨师之间有着 紧密的联系。比起伦敦或 纽约,墨尔本的这个圈 子是挺小的。所以每个人 都似乎知道谁做得好谁 做得不好。虽然这个是 一个小城市,可是却充满 各式各样的美食,生活 在这里的人也越来越愿 意在外面进餐。只要厨 师们和餐厅老板继续努 力,这个情况将会越来越 厉害。如果我们都持续 追求更多的美食,墨尔本 的饮食业将会一直发展 下去。◆
You've worked in a number of world-class restaurants. What inspired you to pursue this path? That’s a long story with many twists and turns but essentially I got a job with Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir Aux Quat Saisons and worked my way up to Senior Chef De Partie, which was, to date, my most inspiring time working. I still look back to it for inspiration. After a few years I moved to New York to work with Daniel Boulud at his three Michelin star restaurant and I was also involved in the opening of Gordon Ramsay at the London where I worked my way up to Sous Chef. After my visa ran out, Gordon offered me a role in Melbourne to open Maze as the head chef, which is what finally brought me here. How did you get involved at No.8 by John Lawson and the Crown Casino? It’s a great restaurant that has been there for a long time and has a massive reputation in Melbourne. But it was in a bit of a decline. I had always seen the space and thought, wow, what a great spot, and had always had a vision of what I could do in that space. Since I have worked with the Crown for a long time, they eventually offered the space to me. I thought that I could take
the space to new levels and really aim to look at where we are getting food from and keeping the produce regionally based. Why is it so important for your produce to be locally sourced and sustainable? It’s something I believe in and something I want to inspire in the whole team here, to bring the restaurant forward. I have a background in produce after all my training, so to just take an ingredient and do it justice and not complicate it was always going to go hand-in-hand with my style. Cooking is constant learning; there’s such unique produce around Victoria that lets you create such an amazing menu. How have you seen the Melbourne food scene develop? Melbourne has a very close-knit community among the chefs. It is quite small compared to London or New York, so everyone seems to know who is doing well and who isn’t. The city might be small, but it has also become a very intense food city where people are loving to eat out more and more. It will only get stronger as long as chefs and restaurateurs keep pushing themselves. It will always develop if we can all continue to strive for more. ◆
8 Whiteman St, Southbank VIC 3006, crownmelbourne.com.au/no-8
MELBOURNE 77
Great inf luences JOHN LAWSON COUNTS THE LIKES OF RAYMOND BLANC, DANIEL BOULUD AND GORDON RAMSAY AS MENTORS
CUTLER AND CO.
MELBOURNE
Andrew McConnell
78
Cutler and Co.'s Andrew McConnell is creating a beautiful balance between elegance and simplicity with some of the finest and most unique ingredients in Melbourne, all housed inside an old metal works factory. Cutler and Co.餐厅是以旧厂房改造而成,主厨 Andrew McConnell采用一些墨尔本最优质、最独特 的材料制作出既高雅又简单的佳肴。
您对食物的热情是怎样开 始的? 我是个本地人。与许多厨 师一样,我早期对食物的 接触从家里开始。我的妈 妈是个很棒的厨师,而且 会经常作出不同的尝试。 我一直以来都对食物非常 有兴趣,也非常喜欢餐厅 的氛围。当我还在读书时 兼职洗碗工,那时开始接 触到厨房的工作环境,我 学会了真正享受这个环境 并且开发了烹饪中创意的 领域。 经过几个不同的餐厅想法 后, Cutler and Co.餐厅 是怎样诞生的? 十年前我应邀来到位于费 兹罗伊区内的一个五金厂, 这是一个很好的机会让我 第一手接触还没被划分成 许多小店的大地方。所以 当时我们有的就是一个靠 近市中心的大空间,也是 一个好机会让我把餐厅搬 到这个如此独特的地方。 我仍然希望维持高端的餐 饮体验可是稍微放松一点。 这几年间,我把餐厅的厨 房从后面移到餐厅的中心, 客人到达之后会经过厨房 才进到餐厅里面,这是个 很棒的体验。菜色基于当 季的出产,以及我们合作 的农民所能提供的食材而 制定。虽然我对食物在某
What were your early influences in food? I’m a local boy. Like a lot of chefs, my early exposure to food was at home. Mum was a great cook 您的食材来自哪里,为何 and always experimented. I was 本地出产如此重要? always interested in food and 我们尽所能一切采用本地 restaurants; I thought they were a 出产的食材,很多有机农 fascinating environment to be in. 夫是特地为我们种植的。 Then in school I had a job washing 我们使用的一些出产如荨 dishes where I was exposed to a 麻或野草甚至是在野外被 working kitchen, and I learnt to 采摘。这些食材我喜欢纯 really enjoy the environment and 粹用来做调味,它们比较 creative aspect of cooking. 天然,味道也较复杂。我 们不断去讨论什么是好、 After a few restaurant ideas, how 当季将会有什么新鲜食材, did Cutler and Co. come about? 以及要作出怎样的菜式。 I was invited about 10 years ago 这样子的讨论能启发我们 to come visit a functioning metal 并且帮助我们制定餐单。 works factory in Fitzroy. This was a 我们不能以技术来提升基 great opportunity to get my hands 本食材的质量,因此一开 on a fresh space that wasn’t going 始所有的基本食材都是要 to be converted into a lot of smaller 非常优质的。 shops. So what we have is quite an open space, close to the CBD. 您认为墨尔本餐饮业的演 It was a great opportunity for me 变是怎样的? to move my restaurant to such a 在澳大利亚烹调是让人非 unique space. I wanted to keep it 常兴奋的,这里的饮食界 a top-end dining experience but to 如火如荼,是一个又新又 be a little more relaxed. Over the 年轻的领域,仍然充满着 years I’ve moved the kitchen from 能量。许多很棒的年轻厨 out the back into the centre of the 师现在开一些体积比较小, restaurant, so when guests arrive 比较便利的餐厅。这里的 they enter through the kitchen 葡萄酒文化也很棒,能跟 and are greeted by young chefs, 食物配对,这是我们餐饮 and the smell, sight and sound 界很重要的一部分,更引 of a working kitchen, which is a 领着我们未来的方向。◆ great experience.
些方面采取简单的处理, 可是我们也会应用特有的 技术来提炼出这些优质食 材的味道。
55-57 Gertrude St, Fitzroy VIC 3065, cutlerandco.com.au
Where does your produce come from and why is it important to be locally sourced? We try to source our produce as locally as possible and from many organic farmers who grow specifically for us. Some of the produce we use might even be foraged; this could be anything from nettles or wild weeds. I like to use ingredients like this purely for the flavour; it’s more natural and complex. We have a constant dialogue of what’s good, what’s coming into season and what’s about to finish. This really inspires us and helps us direct our menus. We can’t make the base ingredient any better by using our techniques; the base ingredient has to be superior to start with. How have you seen the Melbourne dining scene evolve? Australia is such an exciting place to be cooking, there’s just so many things happening in the food scene. It’s still a new and young industry here, which means there’s a lot of great energy and a lot of great young chefs who are opening up smaller and more accessible restaurants. We also have a wonderful wine culture here that supports what we are doing with our food. It’s a very important part of what we do and where we are going. ◆
MELBOURNE 79
The perfect blend AT CUTLER AND CO, ANDREW MCCONNELL AIMS FOR A MORE RELAXED HIGH-END DINING EXPERIENCE
GUANGZHOU 80
Back to the future THERE’S A FUTURISTIC ELEMENT TO THE DESIGN OF THE OPERA HOUSE
modern masterpiece
Photo by Virgile Simon Bertrand
Guangzhou’s Opera House has achieved what many architects consider the Holy Grail: to become a must-see attraction that is synonymous with its city, writes Adrian Mourby
GUANGZHOU 82
I Big city lights DESIGN WAS MEANT TO REFLECT BOTH THE PEARL RIVER AND FUTURE CITY CENTRE
t’s best to get your first sight of Guangzhou’s famous Opera House in the evening. As the brand-new skyscrapers that surround Haixinsha Square burst into light, a strange double-pebble building down below begins to glow through its glass walls and irregular roof-lights. In turn, those lights are reflected in the small lake edging around this remarkable alien structure that appears to have landed from another world. Guangzhou’s Opera House has been variously described as “intergalactic,” “organic,” “neofuturistic,” and, according to the New York Times, “the most alluring opera house built anywhere in the world in decades.”
The architect of one of China’s best-known modern buildings first gazed upon this site on the Pearl River in the early 1990s. In 1993, Mayor Lin Shusen had announced that a new commercial and cultural quarter would be built alongside the river that had made Guangzhou’s prosperity possible. This new quarter would be 22km outside the old city centre and, as such, statement buildings were needed. Zaha Hadid – Iraqi-born but based in the UK – was still an emerging talent at the time. She had recently won the competition to build a remarkable new opera house in Cardiff. Unfortunately, that project was ultimately shelved in favour of a new rugby stadium –
GUANGZHOU Photos by Iwan Baan
83
cultural centre in Azerbaijan – but in 2010 her work was still relatively new and surprising.
FUTURE DESIGNS
much to Cardiff’s enduring shame – but thus it was that it fell to China, not Britain, to become the home of Hadid’s first opera house. It would be another 10 years, in 2005, before the ground-breaking ceremony took place, and a further five years – a very long time in the high-speed word of Guangzhou construction – before the Opera House opened in an international blaze of publicity. The cost of RMB 1.38 billion was huge, but reinventing architecture doesn’t necessarily come cheaply. By now we’ve become used to Hadid’s distinctive style – in 2012, she contributed to the site of the London Olympic Games, and she has created a modern art gallery in Rome and a
Hadid’s design for Guangzhou – often likened to two smoothed pebbles by the Pearl River – had come out on top in a 2002 competition where she went up against her older mentor, the great modernist architect Rem Koolhaas. Could her ideas even be built, given the complex intersections that would hold the walls and roof structure in place? “It’s always exciting when architectural concepts can be delivered through a new construction technique, and some examples of this can be seen in the Opera House project,” says Hadid. So few of the steel junctions were identical that, in the end, the Chinese construction team sandcast each in an ancient Shanghai foundry, as used to be the method with bells and cannons. The 75,000 irregular black granite slabs had to be cut by hand. Hadid, an artist in her own right as well as an architect, chose to clothe her two pebbles in a mix of granite and glass, and to surround them with grass and water. It provides an organic feel to the space that hides its purpose as a performance venue. “In Chinese culture, certain analogical thinking makes sense and the idea of pebbles and rocks on the banks of a stream is actually very meaningful for a project located next to the Pearl River,” explains Hadid.
Guangzhou Opera House in numbers
1.38 billion In RMB – the cost to complete the Guangzhou Opera House (approximately US$200 million)
1804 Number of people that can be seated in the main opera hall at full capacity
2010 Year filmmaker Shahar Stroh directed the premiere production of the Opera House: Puccini's Turandot
70,000 Area, in square metres, that the Opera House covers.
120 Length, in metres, of the Opera House's external shell. It also has a maximum height of 43 metres
5 years to complete construction of the entire building and its grounds
GUANGZHOU 84
New traditions HADID MADE A STATEMENT WHEN OPTING FOR AN NON-TRADITIONAL, ASYMMETRICAL AUDITORIUM
Must see
Photos by Virgile Simon Bertrand
GUANGZHOU
Fancy seeing a classic in one of the world's best opera venues? The Phantom of the Opera is showing on September 26-27 and October 1-7, 2015. Weekdays at 8pm, Saturday and Sunday at 2:30 & 8pm.
85
By contrast with traditional European opera houses where functionality can be read in the roofline – the flytower for raising scenery, the domed roof over the auditorium, the broad foyers through which patrons are admitted – Hadid’s new opera house encased its workings so that they disappeared. In Beijing, Paul Andreu did something similar at his National Centre for the Performing Arts (2007), where a huge egg shape, apparently floating in water, contains three separate buildings for opera, theatre and concerts.
THE INSIDE STORY The magic does not diminish inside. The larger of the two pebbles contains an 1880seat concrete auditorium surrounded by black granite floors and foyer spaces that twist, turn, and weave in characteristic Hadid style. Here staircases, for centuries the grand focus of European opera houses, flow, slope and stretch as they lead to the upper tiers of the auditorium and the balconies. Long before she designed her first opera house, Hadid had discussed the idea of buildings as landscapes, and of her desire to shape the structures and spaces within a building as if they meandered like a river. Here in Guangzhou, it’s clear that this building was more than just a job – it was the realisation of a dream. Light from the city penetrates the foyer space as it is lit from end to end by windows cut into the walls and ceilings. Hadid’s idea here, an unusual one for opera, was to stress
“THE OPPORTUNITIES A R E G R E AT E R . T H I S OPERA HOUSE GUANGZHOU
H A S B E A U T I F U L LY BALANCED SOUND”
Photo by Hufton + Crow
86
One with nature AT NIGHT THE STRUCTURE LOOKS ALMOST ORGANIC, BLENDING WITH ITS SURROUNDINGS
that even inside a temple of the arts, “the sense that you are part of a city remains. The city doesn’t just go away.” Once inside the auditorium, the audience is overwhelmed by the vision of a great grotto, illuminated from above by the pinpoints of thousands of fairy lights, rather than by the traditional chandeliers of old Europe. Critics have likened this massive cavern to the inside of an oyster shell or the mouth of a great shark. As house lights dim before a performance, the ceiling is left dotted like the night sky with thousands of stars. Even more radical, however, is the shape of the auditorium, where undulating balconies cascade down to the stage. This space is not symmetrical; it juts out in places at angles that should, in theory, wreck the acoustics. But in practice, this isn’t necessarily the case. “The requirements in an auditorium for Western and Chinese operatic performances differ significantly,” explains Hadid. “With Western opera the focus is on natural acoustics, whereas in Chinese opera, the drama and story have priority and audio equipment is used on almost every occasion. Our research into opera house and auditorium design over the
past 20 years has shown us the many benefits of asymmetrical auditoriums. They can give a real depth to the natural acoustics.” And the auditorium has proven remarkably well adapted to the demands of both Chinese and European opera. Harold Marshall, the acoustician who worked on fine-tuning Guangzhou’s acoustics before the Opera House’s opening night, has claimed that although an asymmetrical rarity like Guangzhou is more of a challenge to tune, “The possibilities are actually greater. This opera house has a beautifully balanced sound.” The house has already staged Puccini’s Turandot – an opera about a cruel Chinese empress that had previously been banned in China – as well as Chinese versions of Cats and Mamma Mia. Without a resident opera company, Guangzhou has to be able to offer all manner of entertainment, and its maverick design helps attract a wide range of performers and audiences.
CHANGING LANDSCAPE The building extends underground, linking the two ‘pebbles’. In the smaller, darker of the two, there’s a secondary performing space built
Photo by Virgile Simon Bertrand
87
GUANGZHOU
Design in practice
GUANGZHOU
RIPPLED CEILINGS OVERSEE THE REHEARSAL SPACE AT THE OPERA HOUSE
Photo by Iwan Baan
88
as a 440-seater black box, as well as kitchens, canteens and the obligatory rehearsal space, designed by Hadid to have rippling ceilings and mirrored walls. Meanwhile, above ground, the narrow space between the two pebbles has been likened to the narrow crevice that admits visitors to the Nabatean city of Petra in Jordan. Beyond the pebbles themselves, various pathways lead the visitor through a sequence of vistas and into the kind of empty public space that went out of fashion in Europe in the 1980s. Hadid has expressed her desire to rehabilitate the large public space. No doubt she will. The Guangzhou Opera House stands as a great affirmation of China’s faith in architectural modernism. That said, the execution of the project has not been without its problems. Glass panels have fallen in, cracks have appeared in walls and ceilings, and some of the granite slabs are having to be replaced. But then, no one ever said reinventing architecture would be easy. Nonetheless, the building is having a wide-ranging influence – even beyond architecture. New York fashion designer
Vivienne Tam, who was herself born in Guangzhou, cited Hadid’s opera house as inspiration behind her Fall 2010 collection. The presence of international banks and hotel chains like the Ritz Carlton and Four Seasons in this hitherto unremarkable part of the city attests to the impact of the building. If there’s one criticism, it’s perhaps that the Opera House doesn’t actually lie alongside the river, but rather a few roads back. As new opera houses in Oslo and Copenhagen have shown, there’s something magical about the close proximity of opera and water. But there’s plenty of magic in Hadid’s design. Guangzhou not only had the honour of building her first opera house, but now it has the honour of seeing its influence spread around the world. ◆
Three for sleep Four Seasons Hotel Guangzhou
Ritz-Carlton Guangzhou
Ascott IFC Guangzhou
Zhujiang W Rd, close to the Guangzhou Friendship Store and Starbucks on Huaxia Rd fourseasons.com
3 Xing'an Rd, overlooking the Guangzhou Library and Guangdong Museum ritzcarlton.com
5 Zhujiang W Rd, apartments close to the Four Seasons with a good indoor swimming pool. the-ascott.com
SY DNEY ’S L ARGEST
CHINE SE
RE STAUR A NT GROUP
YUM CHA
. A L A CARTE . FUNCTIONS
13 0 0 8 8 3 8 9 2
w w w. p h o e n i x r e s t a u r a n t s .c o m . a u
SYDNEY 90
尽在这里 期待在悉尼放松身心,享尽各种休闲娱乐?在大多数情况下您不 用离开酒店便能拥有完美的体验,Constantina Pilatos写道
Here to stay Looking to unwind in Sydney? Often, you don’t even need to leave your hotel to find the perfect experience, writes Constantina Pilatos
在
过去的十年里 酒店所扮演的 角色越来越趋 向多元化。一方面宾客仍 然要求基本的元素——尚 好的服务、以及具备与自 己家里同样舒适的睡床、 品牌日用品,另一方面 他们也期待一些锦上添花 的附加品。他们希望被震 撼,酒店也因此在这方面 竭尽所能地务求能满足客 人的需求。 酒店餐厅内拥有世 界一流的厨师已不足为 奇,要鹤立鸡群必须坐拥 城市的最佳景观,水疗 所务必提供独特专属礼遇 才能成功的吸引客人到 访,不然他们宁愿让理疗 师到房间为他们服务。现 在的酒店鼓励客人进行户 外的活动,在旅行期间
保持健康的身体同时也 能体验城市风情,因 此酒店里的健身房已经 不再受到追捧。 随着悉尼旅游业蓬勃 发展,酒店业也提供各种 各样的独家体验,从健康 与保健,到调酒师精心调 制的鸡尾酒和城市壮丽美 景,悉尼的酒店已成为旅 游目的地,跟这个美丽的 城市一样值得让人到访。 一天之始 有什么方式能够比运动更 好的来开始新的一天? 在悉尼海港大桥下做瑜 伽,何乐而不为?晨曦时 分可以看见码头一号酒店 (Pier One)的客人在酒 店靠近海港边的甲板上、 悉尼其中一个最雄伟的地 标下练习阿斯汤加瑜伽。
SYDNEY
T
he role of hotels has evolved over the last decade or so. While guests still expect the basics – good service, designer amenities, bed comfort that matches their own back at home – they also look for all the bells and whistles that should come with staying at a high-end hotel. Guests want to be dazzled, and hotels are going above and beyond to make sure they are. No longer is it impressive enough to have some of the world’s leading chefs heading the restaurant kitchen; hotel dining venues must also boast some of the best views in the city. Visiting a spa is only worth it if it offers exclusive, one-of-a-kind treatments; alternatively, these days, you could just have the therapist come to your room. Hotel gyms are also becoming obsolete as resorts encourage guests to head outdoors for exercise-related tours, allowing them to experience the city while also keeping fit during their travels.
91
SYDNEY 92
As Sydney tourism booms, hotels have upped the ante when it comes to providing unique experiences exclusive to their brand. From health and wellness to artisan cocktails and unbeatable views of the city, Sydney’s hotels have become destinations in and of themselves.
UP AND AT ’EM
One of the best THERE ARE FEW BETTER HOTEL STAYS IN SYDNEY THAN THAT PROVIDED BY LUXURY SPECIALISTS PIER ONE
What better way to start the day than with a little exercise? Yoga under the Harbour Bridge – why not? As the sun rises, you’ll find guests of Pier One on the hotel’s harbourside deck practising Ashtanga yoga, right beneath one of the city’s greatest landmarks. For those unfamiliar with yoga terms, Ashtanga style is based on four pillars: breath, strength, integrity and spirit. The hotel employs special instructors Zac Brooker and Charlie Hamilton, founders of Asha Yoga Sydney. Both have travelled throughout India, completing 200 hours of yoga training. They specialise in enhancing relaxation and fitness simultaneously. With the waves of the harbour providing a natural soundtrack to your session, how could you not leave feeling relaxed and refreshed, ready to start your day? Of course, if you’re still in need of some TLC you can opt for the hotel’s stay-in-spa
option. That’s right – you don’t even have to leave your room to get a full-on treatment. The in-room spa options aren’t limited, either: full body massages, exfoliating scrubs, facials, manicures, pedicures and even waxing are all featured on the bespoke menu. Jumping on board with the ‘healthy body, healthy mind’ approach to looking after guests, the Westin has launched RunWESTIN. The running program not only keeps your fitness intact while holidaying, but its carefully planned routes will also allow you to explore the city by foot. Whether you’re a beginner, intermediate or experienced runner, there’s a map for you to follow. Jog by the harbour, past the Opera House, through the Botanic Gardens to Mrs. Macquarie’s Chair, past the Art Gallery and over to Hyde Park – all before you’ve had breakfast. If you happened to ‘forget’ your sneakers, you needn’t worry: there’s no excuse not to run at the Westin. Just let the hotel know what size shoe you are and a pair of New Balance kicks will be delivered to your room, along with socks – yours to keep. If you’ve chosen to start your day right by exercising, it’s best to keep up the healthy routine by heading to the Westin’s Mosaic
阿斯汤加瑜伽是基于 四大重点上——呼吸、 力量、道德、精神。酒 店请来悉尼瑜伽中心 Asha Yoga的创办人 Zac Brooker和Charlie Hamilton为导师。他们 两人的足迹遍及印度,完 成了200个小时的瑜伽训 练课程,专长是放松以及 提升体能同步进行。有天 然海浪声作背景音乐,怎 么能不感到身心放松、神 清气爽,预备好迎接全新 的一天?如果瑜伽还未能 完全满足您,那可以来一 次酒店所提供的房间护理 疗程。对的,是在您的房 间内为您提供护理服务, 护理的选择并没有因为是 在房间内进行而减少,全 身按摩、去角质磨砂、面
部护理、修甲、修脚,甚 至提供蜜蜡脱毛服务,一 应俱全。 悉尼威斯汀酒店今年 以“健康身体,健康心 灵”来为宾客打造最佳体 验,最新推出“威斯汀 健康跑”。通过健康跑计 划,宾客可以在旅游中锻 炼身体的同时,在精心安 排的路线中能尽情欣赏迷 人风光。各级跑步爱好者 均可带上跑步地图进行锻 炼,让您在来一顿丰盛的 早餐前一次过慢跑于海港 畔、歌剧院、皇家植物 园、麦加里夫人石椅、美 术馆以及海德公园之中。 倘若您碰巧“忘记” 了携带运动鞋,不要紧, 在威斯汀酒店没有任何借 口不跑步。只需告知酒店
Under the bridge (BOTTOM) YOGA BY THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS HARBOUR: THERE’S NO BETTER WAY TO START A DAY
SYDNEY
“在悉尼其中一个最 雄伟的地标下练习 阿斯汤加瑜伽”
93
SYDNEY 94
“悉尼的酒店已成为旅游 目的地,跟这个美丽的 城市一样值得让人到访”
Bells and whistles ENJOY A SPA TREATMENT, A HOTELORGANISED EXERCISE ROUTINE OR A SPOT OF FINE DINING
Restaurant. No need to resist those almond croissants – you’ll find the ‘SuperFoods’ label on all the healthy options, which look just as delicious as their less-healthy counterparts. Carrot and ginger shots in ice water are moreish, as are the ready-made blueberry and banana smoothies. There’s also a stand devoted wholly to gluten-free nibbles – another green tick of approval. As hotels try to keep their guests relaxed, they’re equally as invested in making sure they are healthy.
REST AND RECOVER After days of exploring – or meetings, if travelling for business – there’s no better way to wind down than with a visit to the spa. One of the Park Hyatt’s five private spa rooms is the perfect spot to relieve the day’s stresses. Treatments here are inspired by the natural essence of the Australian land. Every treatment is connected to the sun, wind, water, flowers and earth. Lavender Dreams will have you dreaming of sitting under the warm sun in a
您的鞋码,一双新百伦鞋 子便会送至您的客房,还 会附送全新袜子(归您 拥有)。如果您选择以健 康的方式来开始全新的一 天,那便建议您到酒店内 的Mosaic餐厅吃早餐, 延续健康的生活方式。让 人无法抗拒的杏仁羊角包 用“超级食物”制成, 用料健康,而且看上去跟 平常的一样美味。冰冻的 胡萝卜生姜汁和现成的蓝 莓香蕉冰沙更可口到让人 欲罢不能。还有一整个架 子是不含麸质的食物,为 健康饮食加分。酒店致力 于帮助宾客保持健康的同 时,也竭力确保宾客身心 得以完全放松。
休息与恢复 经过几天密集式地探索城 市或是开会(如果您是出 差的话),没有别的地方 比水疗中心更好来纾解疲 劳的身躯。每个护理都跟 太阳、风、水、花以及地 来联系。薰衣草之梦护理 疗程让您仿如置身于和煦 的阳光下的芳香薰衣草原 中。护理包括全身磨砂、 温热裹体及热石按摩。 真正让悉尼柏悦酒店与众 不同的是其屋顶游泳池和 天台,进行护理疗程后可 以在那里一边享用茶点, 一边欣赏既繁忙又美丽的 港湾。 邻近的达令酒店位于 星港城赌场(The Star)
地道的澳洲体验 贴心的中文服务 精选的消费优惠
官方支付伙伴
www.e-swipe.com.au 中 文 客 服 热 线 02 8922 9899 在澳洲也可以使用
澳新通服务柜台悉尼国际到达厅A
啦!
澳新通是一款为中国旅客以及在澳华人打造的手机APP,主要功能有:餐饮购物、景点门票、交通服务、澳新商城、休闲娱乐和中英双语客服热线。APP根据会员的实时位置,为会员推荐吃喝玩 乐的好去处。让每个人都可以成为最地道的美食家,最聪明的消费者。澳新通是支付宝的官方支付伙伴,让会员可以在澳洲轻松使用支付宝。免費中文客户服务热线,让您的旅程語言无障碍。
“ WAT C H F E R R I E S PULL IN AND OUT OF THE HARBOUR WITH A P O S T- T R E AT M E N T REFRESHMENT”
SYDNEY
field full of the purple, fragrant flower. A fullbody scrub is followed by a warm wrap and hot stone massage. What sets the Park Hyatt apart from the rest, however, is its rooftop pool and terrace where you can watch ferries pull in and out of the glistening Harbour with a posttreatment refreshment in hand. Just around the corner, at the Darling – the Star Casino’s hotel offering – guests are pampered with a spa experience like no other. Partnering with French skin-care brand, La Prairie, treatments feature opulent ingredients you’re more likely find on the menu of finedining option, the Century (just downstairs from the spa) than on a treatment list. The Skin Caviar Lift promises to instantly firm skin and perfect its tone and texture thanks to a caviar concentrate, leaving you fresh and ready for dinner and drinks.
96
BEST SEAT IN THE HOUSE
Clockwise from top: PIER ONE RELA XING; BLU BAR ON LEVEL 36 OF SHANGRI-LA; BEETROOT SALAD AT ALTITUDE; CHEF DE CUISINE AT ALTITUDE, NATHAN GRIFFIN
Opposite: THERE ARE FEW BETTER VIEWS IN SYDNEY THAN THAT OF ALTITUDE’S PRIVATE DINING ROOM
内,到访酒店的水疗所 The Spa的宾客可尊享 无与伦比的水疗体验。 跟法国著名护肤品牌La Prairie携手呈献尊贵的 护理疗程,产品所使用 的珍贵材料犹如一场高 端餐饮盛宴,就像下层 的金唐荟中餐厅一样。 珍贵纯净的鱼子精华瞬 间提升肌肤自然轮廓, 显着提升皮肤弹性及改 善肤色,让您整晚明亮 动人。 最佳座位 位于香格里拉大酒店的 Altitude餐厅和Blu酒吧 让您不必搭乘直升机便能 饱览悉尼海港壮丽美景。
坐落于酒店的第36层, 地理位置优越,透过5米 高的落地玻璃窗把迷人景 观尽收眼底。不管您是想 欣赏歌剧院还是海港大 桥,只须在餐厅里挑选其 中一边坐下,景色便全归 属于您。不过美丽的景色 并不是让Altitude餐厅鹤 立鸡群的唯一原因。 餐厅主厨Nathan Griffin在2010年加入香 格里拉大酒店之前跟随 着训练有素的米其林大 厨工作,经验十足。在 Altitude餐厅,Nathan 采用新鲜的当地食材烹饪 现代澳大利亚美食,打 造时令菜单。来自塔斯 马尼亚的奶酪、科恩湾
Altitude Restaurant and Blu Bar at Shangri-La boast arguably the most incredible panoramic views of Sydney Harbour you can get (short of flying in a helicopter). The restaurant sits on the 36th level of the hotel. Taking full advantage of its prime real estate, the stunning view is inescapable with five-metre-high floorto-ceiling windows. Whether it’s the Opera House or Harbour Bridge you’d like to gaze at while dining, just pick a side of the restaurant and the view is yours. The view isn’t the only thing that sets Altitude apart from the rest. Leading the kitchen is Chef de Cuisine, Nathan Griffin. Having spent his formative years working alongside Michelin-trained chefs, Nathan has no shortage of expertise. Joining Altitude in 2010, his aim for the sky-high dining was to approach Australian cuisine with a focus on fresh, local, seasonal ingredients. Cheeses are brought in from Tasmania, barramundi from Cone Bay, swordfish from Western Australia, carrots from the Blue Mountains and oysters from Sydney. There isn’t a corner of the land Down Under that isn’t featured on the menu, so you can get a real taste of Australia. For an after-dinner drink, head down the road to Zeta Bar. Set in the middle of Sydney’s CBD,
97
SYDNEY
SYDNEY 98
Clockwise, top right: ZETA BAR COCKTAILS; VIEW FROM ZETA’S TERRACE; LUXURY AT THE STAR; FRESH OYSTERS AT PIER ONE; MORE ZETA GOODNESS
it sits a couple of floors up from the Hilton’s hotel lobby. Not your average hotel bar, Zeta has been a hit among young and trendy locals for over a decade now. We have a feeling it has something to do with the cocktails, with menus based on some of the world’s famously fun locations: Milan, London, Singapore, Puerto Rico, New York, and, of course, Sydney. Each of the menus feature drinks with ingredients for which the city it’s named after is famous. Milan’s menu, for example, is a catwalk of bittersweet aperitifs and digestives that have been inspired by the timeless sophistication of classic Italian drinks. The Buongiorno Principessa is a coffee-inspired cocktail containing Ketel One vodka and coffee, with hints of port and an Italian digestivo – sure to bring out the Italian in all of us. On London’s menu, you’ll find the London Garden Party. A classic combination of Hendricks gin and cucumber with hints of lemon and dry vermouth, to fit the stereotype it’s served in a tea cup. Heading Down Under, Sydney’s menu is made up with fresh, fruity and fun flavours. The Zeta Nitro Sorbet features three cocktails with a nitro blast, turning them into refreshing sorbets and served on a smoking plate with a mini-cocktail on the side. Pick from Watermelon Margarita, Dark & Stormy or Summer & Cider. As Zeta Bar’s Sydney menu suggests, the capital has become known as a fun city that tourists won’t get tired of. No matter how long you spend in Sydney, there’s always something new and unique to try. Whether it’s starting your day off right by exercising, exploring the city, looking to relax or spending your nights at fine-dining restaurants or exclusive bars, you won’t have to step foot out of your hotel to get a truly unique Sydney experience. ◆
(Cone Bay)的肺鱼、 西澳大利亚的剑鱼、蓝 山的胡萝卜以及悉尼的 牡蛎。他将澳大利亚的 每一个角落的美食带到 Altitude餐厅的厨房,来 尽情享受充满澳大利亚风 味的盛宴吧。 至于餐后酒,可以前 往位于悉尼市中心希尔顿 酒店内的Zeta酒吧,这 家酒吧有别于一般酒店酒 吧,在过去十年多备受当 地时髦的年轻人喜爱。我 们觉得原因跟他们家的酒 单有关。 鸡尾酒酒单上的各种 酒款以各个首都城市来命 名——米兰、伦敦、新加 坡、波多黎各、纽约、当 然不少得悉尼。每款鸡尾 酒均采用当地城市有名的 材料精心调制而成。 米兰的灵感来自经典 的意大利饮料中苦甜交 杂的口感。Buongiorno Principessa鸡尾酒结 合伏特加和咖啡,必定 能把我们每个人潜在体
内的意大利细胞发挥得 淋漓尽致。伦敦是杜松子 酒和黄瓜的经典组合,带 有一丝柠檬和干苦艾酒的 味道,为了迎合人们对其 一向的印象这款酒盛在茶 杯里。悉尼的那款酒则充 满各种清新的果香味,十 分有趣。以三款鸡尾酒经 过液态氮冷技术制作成的 Zeta液态氮雪芭,口感 清爽,跟一杯迷你鸡尾酒 一起放在烟气腾腾的盘子 里。有多种口味供选择包 括西瓜、玛格丽特。 就像Zeta酒吧里的悉 尼鸡尾酒一样,悉尼这个 首都城市确实充满各种乐 趣,游客在这里必定不会 感到沉闷。不管您在悉尼 待了多久,各家酒店所提 供的独特体验定能让您度 过精彩的每一天。无论 是以锻炼身体开始新的一 天、探索城市、放松身心 或是晚上体验高端佳肴或 到访别具一格的酒吧,要 体验真正的悉尼并不需要 踏出酒店半步。◆
时尚、品味、美丽之作 五代相传的稀珍精湛工艺让Curtis的珠宝 和书写工具达到至臻完美的境界。 Curtis与您迈向成功。 A: Dais双色圆珠笔 以9克拉纯金精制而成,澳大利亚制造,售价为9,800美金 B:Morning Mist墨水笔 独一无二,以纯金打造并镶嵌闪亮钻石, 澳大利亚制造,售价为USD$88,000 网上备有同款珠宝,以供陪衬
B L U E M O U N TA I N S 100
Keep a lookout THE BLUE MOUNTAINS ARE HOME TO HUNDREDS OF POPULAR AND HIDDEN LOOKOUTS LIKE GOVETTS LEAP, NEAR BLACKHEATH
B L U E M O U N TA I N S 101
MAGIC MOUNTAINS With over 10,000 square kilometres of sweeping views, dramatic waterfalls and peaceful walks, you’ll never tire of the sights and sounds of the Blue Mountains
魅惑蓝山 拥有超过10,000平方公里的广袤美景、壮丽的瀑布景观,还 有宁静的步行道,蓝山的一切将会让您深深陶醉其中 Words Lisa Perkovic Photography Trent van der Jagt
B L U E M O U N TA I N S 102
L
Nature’s best NOT ALL ROCK, THE BLUE MOUNTAINS ARE ALSO FILLED WITH FASCINATING LOCAL FLORA
egend goes that long, long ago, three beautiful sisters lived in the Jamison Valley with the Gundungurra people. Meehni, Wimlah and Gunnedoo’s love for three brothers of the nearby Dharruk tribe was forbidden. As love stories often go, battle threatened to break out. In an attempt to protect the women, Kuradjuri, a ‘clever man’ of the Gundungurra people, turned all three into stone. And hence, the Three Sisters were born. Forever immortalised in the rock at Echo Point, they stand more than 900 metres high. There’s no happy ending here, but the tragic love story of the Blue Mountains captures the hearts of millions of visitors each year. The sight of the three mountains washed in a golden sunset or standing tall in the blue haze that gives the region its name is not to be missed. The Blue Mountains may not have the padlock-love bridges, cobblestoned streets or fairytale castles of Europe’s most romantic cities, but it has something else: the Australian bushland. The Three Sisters are just one landmark in roughly 10,000 square kilometres that make up the Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage Area, located just two hours’ drive west of Sydney. Eight different conservation zones are home to dramatic waterfalls, quiet rainforest pockets, walking tracks, wildlife and rare tree species. Ancient rainforests within the Heritage Area are home to more than 100 different species of eucalyptus trees. It’s the oil from
三
姐妹峰作为蓝 山的象征,其 命名来源于澳 大利亚土著人的一个古 老传说。相传在很久以 前,有三位美貌如花的姐 妹Meehni、Wimlah和 Gunnedoo跟贡东古拉人 住在杰米逊谷(Jamison Valley),她们三人同时 爱上了跟贡东古拉人有 宿怨的Dharruk族兄弟三 人,因此引爆了两族间的 战争。但贡东古拉人中有 一位名为Kuradjuri的聪明 人,为了保护三姐妹免受 战争的威胁便把她们变成 石头。三姐妹峰便从此诞 生,并且永远竖立在回声 角(Echo Point)900米的 高处之上。 蓝山这个缠绵凄惨的爱 情故事却捕获了很多游客 的心,每年都会有大量游 客慕名而来拜访三姐妹峰。 而蓝山得名于三姐妹峰被 金色的夕阳笼罩着或是因 为它们屹立在一层蓝色的 薄雾之中。 蓝山或许没有锁上“同 心锁”的爱桥、 鹅卵石的 街道或欧洲一些最浪漫的 城市里童话般的城堡,可
是蓝山却拥有属于自己的 特色——澳洲丛林。 大蓝山区位于悉尼以西 两小时的车程,三姐妹峰 只是这个面积广达1万平 方公里的蓝山世界遗产区 的其中一个地标。整个大 蓝山区分成八个不同的保 护区,里面有澎湃的瀑布、 宁静的热带雨林、步行道、 野生动植物以及珍稀树种。 位于遗产区内古老的热 带雨林生长着上百种尤加 利树,其释放的油滴挥发 在空气中与尘埃混合而呈 现出蓝雾。盛夏之时,整 个蓝山笼罩在深蓝色的烟 霭之中。 在森林里还能找到瓦勒 迈杉,又称“恐龙树”。 这稀有的树种是在1990 年被新南威尔斯国家公园 暨野生动物服务的人员 在蓝山瓦勒迈国家公园 (Wollemi National Park) 远足时发现的。瓦勒迈杉 是南洋杉科下的品种之一, 有2亿年历史,野外现存不 到100颗成熟的瓦勒迈杉, 非常的稀有珍贵。 在蓝山里比较受欢迎 的雨林栈道上很难看到瓦 勒迈杉的踪影,就像在野
B L U E M O U N TA I N S 103
“THE TRAGIC LOVE STORY O F T H E B L U E M O U N TA I N S CAPTURES THE HEARTS OF MILLIONS”
Tea time HYDRO MAJESTIC’S WESTERN-STYLE HIGH TEA (ABOVE); AND TAKING THE STAIRS AT PULPIT ROCK (LEFT)
B L U E M O U N TA I N S 104
“您可以独揽整个瞭望台, 享尽专属于您的蓝山风景”
B L U E M O U N TA I N S
these trees that evaporates and mixes with the dust in the atmosphere to create a blue haze on the horizon. In the height of summer, the mountains take on a deep blue cast. The forests are also home to the Wollemi pine. Nicknamed the ‘dinosaur tree’, the Wollemi pine was discovered in the 1990s by a NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service officer hiking in Wollemi National Park. There are thought to be less than 100 mature trees of this rare species left in the wild, which is part of the 200-million-year-old Araucariaceae family.
SETTING THE SCENE It’s unlikely you’ll see the Wollemi pine on any of the more popular bushwalking trails in the Blue Mountains. Like spotting a koala in the wild, they’re almost impossible to find without expert eyes. Luckily, Scenic World, the region’s most popular tourist attraction, is part of a propagation program that sees young Wollemi pines reintroduced into the landscape. Scenic World is part theme park, part educational centre, but most importantly, it’s the quickest way to get a full, 360-degree view of the iconic Blue Mountains escarpments. Located five minutes drive from Katoomba, the area’s major town, Scenic World is open 365 days a year and has been owned by the Hammon family since 1945. Previously a functioning 外寻找无尾熊的身影一样, coal and shale mine, the site’s steep incline 没有专业人员受过专业训 railway was converted into a tourist attraction 练的眼睛也几乎不可能 in the 1950s and Scenic World was born. 找得着。幸而我们有 After a few major renovations and updates, “绝景世界”(Scenic the railway is still the steepest in the world, with World),这是蓝山地区 a Guinness World Record plaque to prove it. 最受欢迎的旅游景点,也 The train plunges straight into the rainforest, 是传播计划的一部分,把 passing through a tunnel in the rock. A glass 年幼的瓦勒迈杉重新种植 roof and doors bring nature even closer – keep 到野外丛林去。 an eye out for the young Wollemi pine trees on 绝景世界既是个主题公 the ride down. It’s a short but spectacular ride, 园也是个教育中心。重点 guests disembarking on the valley floor where 是它能360度观赏蓝山壮 a series of boardwalks take you past the old coal 丽景观的最佳方法。从卡 tunnels and through the forest. It’s quiet and 通巴(Katoomba)出发 cool on the valley floor. Lyre birds, wombats 只需5分钟车程便来到景 and wallabies wander through the trees and 观世界,自1945年始便归 over old mining buckets. Giant boulders that 哈蒙家庭拥有,全年365 have tumbled down from the escarpment above 天开放。绝景世界内有一 have been carbon dated back 10,000 years. 条陡峭倾斜的铁路昔日是 The boardwalks lead you to what was at one 用来运煤矿的,于1950年 stage Australia’s largest cable car, whisking 代改造成观光列车道,绝 you back up to Scenic World’s main hub and 景世界便从此诞生。经过 the top of the escarpment. It’s out the side 几次翻新和修整后,绝景 windows where you’ll get a first glimpse of the 世界仍然是世界上最陡、 Three Sisters. 最斜的铁路,更被列入 Scenic World saves the best for last. The 《金氏世界记录大全》。列 Skywalk cable car runs straight across the 车直接进到热带雨林之中, Katoomba Falls amphitheater, at a soaring 穿过一条石隧道。火车的
105
玻璃顶及玻璃门让乘客更 加近距离地接触大自然, 旅途中别忘了寻找一下年 幼的瓦勒迈杉的影子。火 车之旅虽短却非常壮观, 乘客于山脚处下车,然后 有一系列的雨林栈道带领 您走过从前的煤矿隧道以 及穿越森林。山谷既宁静 又美好,琴鸟、袋熊和沙 袋鼠游走于其中。从悬崖 滚下来的巨型石头的历史 Majestic dining 可追溯至一万年前。 THERE ARE BOTH WESTERN AND 沿着雨林栈道往前走便 可抵达澳大利亚最大的缆 EASTERN HIGH TEA OPTIONS 车,搭乘缆车回到绝景世 (ABOVE); ORIGINAL 界的主区,也就是悬崖的 ARCHITECTURE OF 顶部,沿途能观赏到三姐 THE HYDRO MAJESTIC (BELOW) 妹峰的风采。 绝景世界把最精彩的 部分留到最后。搭乘高空 缆车从270米的雨林上空 穿越而过,这个高度是悉 尼海港大桥的两倍。透明 的车厢底部让您全方位饱 览卡通巴瀑布、鸟瞰三姐 妹峰以及蓝山壮丽的景色。 缆车还会滑过亨利王子断 崖步道以及其它几条位于
B L U E M O U N TA I N S 106
“蓝山这个缠绵凄惨的 爱情故事却捕获了很 多游客的心” 270 metres above the valley below. That’s twice as high as the Sydney Harbour Bridge. It’s a brilliant bird’s eye view of the waterfalls below and the perfect spot to see the Three Sisters in all their glory – you’re almost at eye level with the landmark. The Skyway takes you across to the top of the Prince Henry Cliff Walk and a few other trails on the escarpment. On the ride back over to Scenic World, stand in the middle of the cable car and look straight down through the glass floor to the rainforest below.
GREAT HEIGHTS A bird’s eye view is a great introduction to the scale of the Blue Mountains. There are plenty of lookouts scattered throughout the region. Echo Point is the most popular for tourists wanting a postcard shot of the Three Sisters and Jamison Valley, while Govetts Leap lookout near Blackheath sits atop a dramatic drop down into the Grose Valley. The Govett Leaps Falls tumble 180 metres to the valley 悬崖边上的徒步路径。回 floor and make this a popular tourist spot. 程到绝景世界的路上,站 If you’re keen to get off the beaten path, try 在缆车的中间,从玻璃底 Pulpit Rock Lookout. At the end of a short 板可以尽情享受热带雨林 dirt road, this lookout is actually a series of 风光。 dramatic platforms perched on the edge of 观赏这片广袤的大蓝 rock outcrops. Stairs lead all the way down to 山区的最佳方法是站在高 the smallest lookout, which hugs the side of 处眺望。最受游客欢迎 the cliff and puts you inside the valley. Harder 的拍摄地点是回声角,这 to find but well worth the effort, you’ll usually 里可以拍出跟明信片一样 have Pulpit Rock all to yourself. 美丽的三姐妹和杰米逊 If you’d rather go all the way down to 谷照片。邻近布莱克希斯 the valley floor, there are plenty of walking (Blackheath)的戈维特跳 trails winding their way through the Blue 跃眺望台(Govetts Leap Mountains. From the easy one-hour Valley of Lookout)能饱览风景如 the Waters walk out to Wentworth Falls near 画的格罗斯谷(Grose Leura, to the more gruelling Giant Stairway’s Valley)。戈维特跳跃瀑 900 stairs, there’s tracks for plenty of different 布从180米高空奔流而下, fitness levels. 成为旅游热点之一。倘若 After a day exploring the wilderness, there 您希望打破常规,可以到 can be nothing more decadent than a spa 访圣坛石瞭望台(Pulpit treatment. Parklands Country Gardens & Lodge Rock Lookout)。走过一 is a sprawling estate tucked into the bushland 段短短的泥头路,来到了 on the edge of Blackheath. A tree-lined gravel 悬崖边上的梯级,沿着阶 driveway leads down to a large manor house, 梯往下走便到达这个位处 where the top floor is given over to spa rooms 山谷之间、悬崖边上、面
积最小的瞭望台。这个地 方虽然不容易找,可是付 出必然有回报,通常您可 以独揽整个瞭望台,享尽 专属于您的蓝山风景。 如果您想前往山谷的最 底部,蓝山也有许多步行 路径助您达成愿望,有短 有长。从只需一小时便能 完成的Valley of Waters 徒步路径到萝拉小镇附近 的温特伍斯瀑布步道,也 有更加艰辛、拥有900阶 阶梯的巨大阶梯(Gaint Stairway)步道,提供多 重选择给不同体能条件的 人群。 在野外经过精彩的一 天,没有别的活动比水疗 更让人惬意。帕克兰乡间 花园&小屋(Parklands Country Gardens & Lodge)坐落于布莱克希 Fine dining 斯小镇边缘的丛林里。沿 THE HYDRO MAJESTIC HAS BOTH HIGH-END 着绿树成荫的碎石车道往 AND MORE CASUAL 前走便到达一座大庄园, DINING OPTIONS
A G R E AT I N T R O D U C T I O N TO THE SCALE OF THE B L U E M O U N TA I N S ”
B L U E M O U N TA I N S
“A BIRD’S EYE VIEW IS
107
As the crow f lies SCENIC WORLD OFFERS A NUMBER OF VANTAGE POINTS TO SEE THE THREE SISTERS
B L U E M O U N TA I N S 108
looking straight out over the manicured grounds. Soak away the day’s aches in a deep tub before an aromatherapy massage or organic moor mud wrap. The self-contained suites and lofts are tucked into the trees, so the crisp mornings are filled with birdsong.
IN ALL ITS MAJESTY The recently refurnished Hydro Majestic also offers an opportunity to experience nature without sacrificing any creature comforts. This historic property underwent a six-year and $30 million restoration to return it to its former glory. The sprawling site stretches one kilometre along the top of an escarpment above the Megalong Valley and certainly makes the most of its location. Take high tea in the Wintergarden, where floor-to-ceiling windows look straight out at the view; enjoy a more casual lunch in the original Boiler House, where again, windows open up onto the view; or curl up on a velvet lounge by the windows in the Cat’s Alley, an opulent lounge area where drapes are lined with peacock feathers. Rise early and catch the first light of the day from one of the hotel’s 54 rooms that again make the most of the view. Visitors to Katoomba will often make a beeline for Lilianfels, the luxury boutique hotel where the award-winning Darley’s Restaurant takes old-world glamour to new heights. Sit by the fireside in winter and dine on quail bisteeya, seared wagyu steak and plenty of fresh local produce. The sommelier even has a few local wines on the menu. Once you’ve explored the Blue Mountains by taste, on a train, in a cable car and from a lookout, you’ll have been touched by the beauty of a part of the world that’s like no other. ◆
顶层是水疗中心,俯瞰修 迷人景观的波勒屋咖啡馆 剪整齐的草坪。在享受芳 (Boiler House)来一个轻 香疗法按摩或有机黑泥裹 松随意的午餐;Cat’s 体前把自己浸泡在水疗浴 Alley酒吧华丽的休闲区也 缸之中,把一天的疲劳一 是个不错的选择。日出时 扫而空。私人套房及阁楼 分,早点起床在酒店54间 的四周绿树环绕,早晨时 房间的其中一间内欣赏晨 分清脆的鸟鸣声不绝于耳。 光里初升的太阳。 最近经过翻新的海德 前往卡通巴的游客通 马佳仕大酒店(Hydro 常会必不及待的到访莉莉 Majestic)也同样为旅客 安费尔斯蓝山度假温泉酒 提 供 大 自 然 与 物 质 享 受 店(Lilianfels),酒店内 兼备的住宿体验。这座 屡获殊荣桂冠的达利餐厅 历史悠久的酒店最近耗资 ( Darley’s Restaurant)把 3千万重新精装修复,回 旧世界的魅力发挥的淋漓 复昔日的风采。酒店坐落 尽致。冬日炎炎坐在火炉 在绵延1公里风景如画的 边惬意地品尝香嫩多汁的 麦加龙山谷(Megalong 神户牛排以及多种本地出 Valley谷)的峭壁上,地 产的新鲜食物,还有几款 理 位 置 极 其 优 越 。 在 酒 本地的佳酿待您细细品尝。 店里的冬季花园餐厅餐 品味过蓝山的美食佳 厅(Wintergarden)一边 酿、以火车、缆车体验过 品味精致的下午茶,一边 蓝山的魅力后,您将会被 享受落地玻璃窗外的壮丽 这无与伦比的世外桃源深 美景;或是前往同样拥有 深所吸引。◆
Riding high PULPIT ROCK LOOKOUT (TOP); AND THE WORLD’S STEEPEST RAILWAY (BOTTOM)
从城市出发到 真正的澳大利亚 大自然・小自我
距离悉尼仅90分钟 即日就在网上购票 WEIBO.COM/AUSTRALIABLUE
Photo by OceanFishing / Thinkstock
110 N AT U R A L W O N D E R S
The beauty of China
China’s appeal lies in more than just glittering, sky-scraping cities – its vast wilderness also holds plenty for nature lovers
魅力中国 中国的魅力不仅局限于闪闪发光、高耸入云的摩天大楼, 其辽阔的原野也取得一众大自然爱好者的芳心
GUILIN, GUA NGX I PROV INCE
桂林,广西省
P
位
art Mother Nature, part human ingenuity, the Longji Terraced Fields north of Guilin are a testament to China’s love affair with rice. They’re also astoundingly beautiful. More than 60km² of these verdant, maze-like staircases were first built during the Yuan Dynasty (13th and 14th century), though their construction continued up until the early 1900s. The oldest section, Ping’an Zhuang, tends to attract the biggest crowds – and fairly enough, as it’s not only large, but also wraps gorgeously around an eponymous local village containing century-old stilted houses. Spend an afternoon hiking the levels, discover worn stone bridges and watch the terraces mesmerisingly shift shape with your perspective. Meanwhile, the Jinkeng Terraces around honey-hued Dazhai village contain some of the most photo-worthy landscapes – if you’re up for the hike.
It’s a bit of a slog from the entrance, but watching the paddies glow as the sun sets over the area known as West Hill Music is pure magic. Do it: Entrance fee to the terraces is 100 RMB. Come in autumn, when the fields turn golden and are filled with farmers harvesting. Make your base historic Guilin (two hours and 30 minutes away), at the opulent Shangri-La (shangri-la.com).
处桂林北面的龙脊 梯田是大自然与人 们美丽的结合,也证明了 中国人“无饭不欢”的传 统文化。享有“世界梯 田之冠”美誉的龙脊梯田 景色壮丽而隽秀。梯田始 建于元朝年间(13至14 世纪),至20世纪初才 完工,面积超过60平方公 里。平安壮是这一带最古 老的寨子,也是最受游客
欢迎的村寨。它不仅面积 大,寨内还保留着该地区 传统的高脚干栏式建筑。 花一个下午顺着蜿蜒的石 径攀行而上,沿路经过破 旧的石头桥,眼中的梯田 跟随你的移动变幻着。位 于大寨村境内的金坑梯 田是摄影发烧友的必到之 地,层层梯田直奔云端。 虽然刚开始走的一段路比 较艰辛,可是您定会被梯 田的西山韶乐,美丽的夕 阳照在一层层的梯田上的 壮丽美景所震慑。 出行资讯:梯田的入场 费是100块人民币。秋季 是最合适到访的季节,梯 田在这个时候都便成金黄 色,而且这正是农民收割 的季节。住宿可以选择位 于桂林市的五星级香格里 拉大酒店(距离梯田2小 时30分钟的路程)。
Photo by OSTILL / Thinkstock
龙脊梯田
Photo by konstantin32 / Thinkstock
N AT U R A L W O N D E R S 112
Longji Terraced Fields
N AT U R A L W O N D E R S 113
Zhangjiajie National Forest Park
张家界国家森林公园 张家界,湖南省
ZHANGJIAJIE, HUNAN PROVINCE
S
een Avatar? Then you’ll have little problem picturing the unusual landscape of Hunan’s Zhangjiajie forest park – its hallmark, towering quartzsandstone pillars supposedly provided inspiration for the film’s floating Hallelujah Mountain. Local authorities have even gone so far as naming one of the most famous peaks – which soars at 3,500 feet – accordingly. But the thousands of jagged rock figures, which rise like skyscrapers or enormous pointed fingers from the ground, are part of a larger network of valleys and grottos filled with hundreds of rare tree
species – some of which cling to the lofty stone faces. The sound of unseen birds reverberates off the peaks; this is serious bird-watching and animal-spotting territory (it’s home to the Rhesus monkey and giant salamander). There’s 480,000m² for exploring, but you simply cannot miss the Yellow Stone Stronghold (Huangshizhai) – this observation platform at 1,080m opens up to cinema-worthy vistas of the remarkable pillars. Do it: Entrance to the park from 245 RMB. Base yourself in Zhangjiajie city – the Pullman (pullmanhotels.com) is wellplaced and has a pool.
倘
若您没有看过电影 几百种稀珍树种,还有清脆 《阿凡达》,那么便 的鸟鸣声不绝于耳,这里 很难想像得到湖南张家界 是观鸟及各种动物的好地方 森林公园里奇特的石英砂 (猕猴和大鯢经常在这里出 岩大峰林的面貌。电影里 没)。公园总共有48万平 的许多镜头都在此地实地 方米的面积让您探索,面积 拍摄,“哈利路亚山”便 虽大却不可能错过黄石寨, 是 张 家 界 “ 三 千 奇 峰 ” 这里是张家界美景最为集 中高3,500英尺的“南天一 中的地方,位于海拔1,080 柱”,随着电影撼动世界 米,是个雄伟高旷的观景 影坛的热潮,官方更把它正 台,所以有“不上黄石寨, 式更名为影片《阿凡达》中 枉到张家界”之说。 的“哈利路亚山”。园内 出行资料:门票为245 连绵重叠着数以千计的石 块人民币起。位于张家 峰,奇峰陡峭嵯峨,千姿百 界 市 的 铂 尔 曼 酒 店 是 您 态,如人如兽,如器如物, 的 理 想 住 宿 选 择 , 交 通 形象逼真,气势壮观。除 既方便,酒店内又设有游 了石峰,森林了中也生长着 泳池。
114 N AT U R A L W O N D E R S
ANSHUN, GUIZHOU PROVINCE
T
bird’s eye view, or from below. But that’s not the main draw at Huangguoshu. Uniquely, there’s a 134m-long naturally formed cave at its rear, so visitors can actually slip behind the rushing water to see and even touch it. Keep eyes peeled for rainbows illuminating the emerald flora, which clings precipitously to waterslick rocks. Do it: For the most thunderous of shows, visit during rainy season from MayOctober or JulyAugust. You can stay within walking distance of the falls at the Grand Valley Hotel.
Photo by wonry / Thinkstock
here’s something both fascinating and frightening about a waterfall – a potent, unyielding expression of raw natural power. Huangguoshu Waterfall in Guizhou province is no exception. The Baishui River crashes 67m down a karst edge in a frothy mess, landing in a teal blue pool from which mist is flung at anyone who dares get too close. And viewers can indeed get pretty close: from one of three viewing pavilions you can witness the sodden scene, each one offering a different vantage point. From a distance, from a
黄果树瀑布
Photo by View Stock / Getty Images
安顺,贵州省
汹
涌的山水澎湃地泻 下,瀑布素来让人望 而生畏却又引人入胜。位 于贵州省,享有“中华第一
是这些都不是黄果树的重头 戏。这里最特别的是瀑布 后面岩壁上的一个洞,洞 深134米,洞口常年为瀑布
瀑”的黄果树瀑布也不例 外。白水河河水从67米高 处直奔谷底,如果站太近的 话腾起的水珠会直洒到脸 上。这里有三个观瀑亭,让 游客可以从不同的角度观 赏瀑布——远处观望、高处 俯瞰或是底部抬头观看。可
所遮,游客可以从洞内窗口 窥见天然水帘之胜境。 出行资料:想要看到气 势磅礴、汹涌澎湃的瀑布, 于五月到十月或七月到八月 的雨季前往便最合适不过。 徒步即可到达的金谷瀑布 山庄是您最佳的住宿选择。
N AT U R A L W O N D E R S
Huangguoshu Waterfall
115
N AT U R A L W O N D E R S 116
Five Flower Lake, Jiuzhaigou Valley National Park JIUZHA IG OU, SICHUA N PROV INCE
W
hen the sun is out and the air is still, Five-Flower Lake glitters like a rare tourmaline. The vivid spectrum of turquoise, teal, green and yellow makes this the crown jewel of over 100 brilliant lakes in Jiuzhaigou Valley National park, tucked into Sichuan province north of Chengdu. Through the shallow crystalline water, over 2,000m above sea level, you can spot ancient tree trunks: casualties from the thick forest that surrounds the waters. The calcium carbonate content of the lake, along with different-coloured hydrophytes, lend a unique colour palette, making the ghostly figures below often appear as though they
have been frozen in ice. Like what you see? While Five-Flower might be the most celebrated, many of Jiuzhaigou’s other lakes are also coloured, gleaming amidst karst and tufa-hewn landscapes. Explore virgin bamboo forests, making sure you keep your camera at the ready – it may be a rare stroke of luck, but as Jiuzhaigou is home to around 20 wild pandas as well as the endangered Sichuan golden snub-nosed monkey, you never know what else you might spot… Do it: Depending on the season, ticket prices fluctuate between 80 and 220 RMB. Come in autumn, when the coppery tones of the surrounding forest really make the lake colours pop.
五花海, 九寨沟国家公园 九寨沟,四川
日
光 照 下 , 空 气 屏 息 , 看到的吗?五花海虽然是 位于四川省成都北部 “九寨沟一绝”,还有其他 的五花海如同一块碧玺一样 湖泊同样的色彩动人,引 的斑斓多彩却又晶莹剔透。 人入胜。探索箭竹林时记 同一水域,却呈现出鹅黄、 得随时预备好相机,这里 墨绿、深蓝、藏青等色,使 有大概20只野生熊猫,还 之成为九寨沟国家公园里云 有濒临绝种的四川金丝猴, 云一百多个湖泊中的明珠, 如果幸运便能捕捉到它们 享有“九寨精华”之誉。位 的身影。 于海拔2,000米处,透过清 出行资料:门票价格随 澈的水面能看见湖底下一段 着季节而变动,从80块人民 段的树木躯干。其碳酸钙 币到220块人民币不等。最 质的湖水,与颜色丰富多彩 佳到访季节是入秋时分,这 的水生植物幻化出缤纷色 里笼罩在一片秋色中,湖泊 彩,斑驳迷离。喜欢您所 丰富的颜色更为突出。
留学 蒙纳士
位居世界大学 前100强, 蒙纳士大学引领您 迈向成功新高度。 泰晤士高等教育世界大学排名, 2012 – 2015
CRICOS Provider: Monash University 00008C
了解更多关于留学澳大利亚墨尔本。 monashuniversity.cn
N AT U R A L W O N D E R S
Stone Forest
118
KUNMING, YUNNAN PROVINCE
I
f you’ve ever wandered aimlessly through a garden maze, you’ll have some idea of what to expect from the Stone Forest. In place of perfectly manicured hedges, expect to become lost amongst 550km² of rugged, prehistoric limestone pillars towering almost 30m high – a little more exciting than your typical
stroll in the park. Just an hour and a half outside of Kunming, the UNESCO World Heritage Stone Forest is believed to date back 270 million years and was carved out delicately and gradually over millions of years of erosion. You might usually squirm at the idea of being lost in a forest, but here, that’s half the fun. After hours of tracing the many snaking routes and diverging paths, the rocks start to take the form of animals, people and mythical creatures, which probably means its about time you take a break in the Wangfeng Ting Pavilion where you can get a panoramic view over the sea of stone spires. Here you’ll find most of the people visiting the park, and a great spot for some quick photos. Do it: Admission is RMB 175 and you’ll surely need a tour guide to get yourself around the park. CBT Holidays not only organise private tours, but will also help sort out accommodation in Kunming, 1.5hrs drive away. cbtholidays.com.au
石林 昆明,云南省
如
果您曾经有过在花 园迷宫里漫无目的 地游荡的经历,您便能了 解游览石林的感觉,但 不是迷失在被精心修建的 树篱之中,而是在遍满 历史悠久、30米高的石 柱、550平方公里的石林 之中,比起您平常在公园 里散步更为有趣。距离昆 明只有1个半小时的路程, 这个世界自然遗产石林的 历史可追溯到2.7亿万年 前,历经了亿万年的冲蚀 而形成。平常迷失在森林 里可能会让您感到烦躁不 安,可是迷失在石林是一 种乐趣。经过几个小时游
走于曲折迂回,分歧又多 的路径,石头也越来越形 象化,有些形如动物,有 些形如人、神秘生物等等, 千姿生动,百态奇特。看 到这一切时也意味着是时 候登上望峰亭歇息,这里 可以俯瞰石林全貌,是拍 照留念的好位置,游客也 特别集中在这里。 出行资料:门票是175 块人民币,而且您需要 导游带领您游览这个庞 大的园林。旅游公司CBT Holidays不仅提供私人 团导览服务,还能为您 安排在昆明的住宿,只需 1.5小时的车程便可到达。
N AT U R A L W O N D E R S Photo by dutchydennis / Thinkstock
119
Tiger Leaping Gorge
虎跳峡
LIJI A NG CIT Y, Y UNN A N PROV INCE
丽江市,云南省
‘D
富
ramatic’ doesn’t quite do justice to Yunnan’s Tiger Leaping Gorge. Legend has it a tiger fleeing its hunter once successfully jumped across – hence the name. It would have had to be one sprightly feline; at its narrowest point, the gorge spans 25m across. The luminescent blue Jinsha River, a tributary of China’s iconic Yangtze, slithers between the sky-scraping Haba Snow and Jade Dragon Snow mountains, each over 5,000m. The gorge itself plummets over 3,500m deep into the rock between. The river, too wild to be navigated, is at a constant crush as it rushes past narrow, craggy riverbanks. Still, Jinsha’s surrounds attract eager hikers, who spend days treading a path in the slopes
above. They stay at simple guesthouses along the waterfall-speckled length, popping into prehistoric caves and brushing shoulders with the local Naxi people. Not so intrepid? An easier, paved walking route hugging the river below lets you walk the gorge’s 15km length in a few hours, rather than days. Bus tours also visit the gorge via a road at the bottom of the canyon. Do it: There’s a nominal entry fee for the hike (around 50 RMB). The best time to go is autumn (October or November) or spring – avoid the rainy season from June to September when hiking trails can be wet and dangerous. Start and end your journey in luxury in Lijiang, at the super-plush Banyan Tree (banyantree.com).
有“戏剧性”都不 能完全精确的形容 云南虎跳峡。相传猛虎 为了摆脱猎手而跳跃过 江,故称虎跳峡。它必定 是一只身手非常敏捷的老 虎,因为此峡谷最窄处也 有25米宽。金沙江是中国 有名的长江的支流,蔚蓝 的江水在高越5,000米的 哈巴雪山和玉龙雪山之间 冲刷出一个超过3,500米 深的峡谷。湍急的江流在 两侧岩石之间的夹缝中硬 挤了过去,形成了世界上 最壮观的大峡谷。纵然虎 跳峡江水滔滔,以险闻 名天下,可是仍然没有削 减游客行走危崖山间的兴 致,吸引着爱好徒步探险 的游客沿山路攀缓而上,
居高临下俯瞰虎跳峡壮丽 景色。峡谷中有简易客栈 旅馆供徒步者歇脚,像原 始人一样跟当地的纳西人 挤在洞穴里。另外一条相 对轻松简单的路径是走在 亲水栈道上,几个小时的 路程便能穿越15公里的 峡谷,而不需要几天的时 间。位于峡谷的底部也有 提供巴士游览团。 出行资讯:徒步游览 的统一入场费是约50块人 民币。前往游览的最佳时 间是秋季(十月或11月) 或春季。六月至九月是雨 季,这段时间徒步路径变 得湿滑危险,切记不要在 这段时间前往。以豪华舒 适的丽江悦榕庄作您出发 以及终结的地方吧。
N AT U R A L W O N D E R S 120
Zhangye Danxia Landforms ZHA NGY E, G A NSU PROV INCE
I
f you woke up in the middle of the 400km² Zhangye Danxia Landforms, you’d be forgiven for thinking you had landed on another planet. The colour palette of this desert-like rolling landscape in Gansu province, central-north China, is unlike anything you’ve ever seen on Earth. Red sandstone hills, ribbed in stripey tones of blue, yellow, green and ochre, look like earthly rainbows – though, in fact, they are mineral deposits that have shifted unusually in the rock over millions of years. As if that wasn’t enough, their shapes are bizarre too: some look like castles, others like cones, towers, birds
or beasts (the only limit is your imagination!) scattered amid impossibly steep, impossibly smooth, hundreds-of-metres-tall slopes. A number of viewing platforms are dotted around the park, the first just 10 minutes from the entrance. Others involve a bit more of a climb to get to (a bus also connects some), but are worth it for the photo opp – particularly if you’re visiting just after a rainfall, when the colours are at their most vivid. Do it: Entrance fee is 40 RMB. There are no luxury hotel options near the park, but the Liangmao Hotel in Zhangye provides comfortable, reasonably priced accommodation.
张掖,甘肃省
倘
Photo by Nithid / Thinkstock
若您那天在400平方公里大 的张掖丹霞地貌的中心醒过 来,却以为自己是在另外一个星 球上,那是完全可以理解的。因 为这个位于中国中北部甘肃省的 张掖丹霞拥有与众不同的地貌。 红砂岩山丘上的横向彩条带,由 红、黄、橙、绿、蓝、白等丰富 的色彩交织再一起,把山丘装点 得绚丽多姿。它们的造型奇特, 有些像城堡,有的是圆锥体、塔 形、鸟状或野兽状的(运用您的
想像力!),而且有的是非常陡 峭,有的却非常光滑,还有些是 个几百米高的山坡。这里有几个观 景台,第一个就在距离入口处十分 钟的路程,其他的需要爬到山坡上 (有些提供巴士服务)。登上观景 台是拍摄的好地方,特别是在下雨 过后,山坡上的颜色更为鲜艳。 出行资料:入场费是40块人民 币。地貌公园附近没有豪华酒店, 不过位于张掖的粮贸宾馆提供舒适 并且价格合理的住宿服务。
N AT U R A L W O N D E R S
张掖丹霞地貌
121
SHOP SHAPE New York, Paris, Milan, Hong Kong, London? Forget it – Beijing is gearing up to become the world’s new shopping capital. Alicia Miller checks out what’s in store…
F
rom the centuries-old, graceful columns of the Temple of Heaven and the Summer Palace to the skyscraping glitter of the CBD and the quirky design studios of 798 Art Zone, Beijing is truly a city of both old and new. So it’s little wonder that alongside the ancient tradition of street markets – Bohemianfavourite Nanluoguxiang, antiquestrewn Panjiayuan, and food favourite (fried scorpion, anyone?) Wangfujing, to name but a few – this is also a capital where you’ll find the art of ‘buying stuff’ thriving in the most modern of forms. Shopping in Beijing is no longer about stock-
standard malls filled with mass-market stores. These plazas have evolved into modern entertainment, eating and cultural hubs where well-heeled locals and visitors flock to do more than just bag the latest in Louis Vuitton or Burberry. Welcome to the birth of the Beijing mega-malls: they aren’t just (very) big, they’re also providing an unparalleled experience in luxury quite unlike anything this city has seen before.
A NEW BREED The Chinese taste for top-end goods is nothing new – any global designer brand with half a brain has long had outposts in Beijing and Shanghai. But the barometer for luxury has moved on from just the acquisition of ‘nice stuff.’ Modern Chinese consumers don’t only want the likes of Chanel, Prada and Ferragamo at their fingertips, they also want a ramped-up shopping ‘experience’ to go with it – because why shouldn’t the act of spending be as ritzy as whatever it is you’re going to buy? Beijing’s new mega-malls set the scene perfectly: built to
Shop, play, sleep TAIKOO LI SANLITUN (LEFT), in88 ’S FUN DISPLAY (ABOVE), AND in01’S PARK HYATT
BEIJING 124
impress, they are temples dedicated to the depletion of one’s bank account, as vast and glittering as modern-day Forbidden Cities. The 249.9m-tall tower marking the location of in01 Beijing Yintai Centre in CBD, for example, is like a slender glass beacon for shoppers. At in88 in Wangfujing, imposing blue glass ripples like a wave across the eye-catching exterior. Meanwhile, Chaoyang’s Taikoo Li Sanlitun is exactly as the name suggests – not just a single ‘mall’, but an entire two-part district of 19 gleaming buildings filled with just about everything under the sun. The latest attention-grabbing addition to the bunch has to be Parkview Green, a multi-purpose (shopping, sleeping, entertainment and eating!) ‘quarter’ in Chaoyang. Consisting of four towers – two ninestoried, two 18-storied – encased in a transparent envelope of glass, it’s a get-away-from-the-elements bubble that is as spectacular as it is practical: visitors can enjoy the benefit of natural light without painful fluctuations in seasonal climes or
“ S H O P P I N G I S R E A L LY O N LY T H E S TA R T. T H E R E ’ S A W H O L E E X T R A LEVEL OF HEDONISM HERE” the effects of smog. It also happens to be Beijing’s first sustainable project of this scale, having achieved the illustrious LEED platinum certification. All that glimmering glass and riveting right angles would seem to have served a purpose.
INNER PURPOSE These mega-malls do more than just look good. Get beyond the flashy outer shells and you’ll see they’re also breaking convention indoors. Of course, they have all the superluxe shops you’d expect – the likes of Tommy Hilfiger, Christian Louboutin, Alexander McQueen and Versace, along with jewellery brands like Cartier or Swarovski, are in no measly supply – but shopping is really only the start. There’s a whole extra level of hedonism here: at Parkview Green you can get your hair done at London brand Toni & Guy, order a bouquet of fresh flowers
for loved ones at Fantastic Floral, or catch a show at plush Lumiere Cinema. At Seasons Place you can easily spend a morning – or a day – getting pampered at one of five on-site spas; spend enough to earn yourself a Seasons membership card and you’ll benefit from exclusive offers and services including access to a VIP lounge with bountiful free food and drink. That’s not all. Moving towards the realm of museums or art galleries, these mega-malls promise cultural enrichment too. At Parkview Green, take a break from perusing the latest collections from Mulberry or Pierre Balmain to explore the mall’s inhouse exhibits, which promote the work of emerging artists; at Taikoo Li Sanlitun, join one of the frequent neon-light-studded festivals and events ranging from New Year’s dragon dancing to fashion festivals. Mind you, at Taikoo Li Sanlitun you can also hit
Take a break
BEIJING
LOCALS ENJOY SOME TIME OUT AT SANLITUN (LEFT) AND THE ROOFTOP BAR AT PARK HYATT
125
BEIJING 126
World of their own WHETHER IT’S ART, FASHION, FOOD OR ACCOMMODATION YOU’RE AFTER, BEIJING MALLS HAVE IT ALL
“THERE’S LITTLE YOU WON’T FIND IN BEIJING’S
BEIJING
GLOSSY NEW MEGA-MALLS”
127
the cinema – the Megabox has an IMAX screen – or ogle a number of modern art statues, including Sheng Lu’s rainbow-bright, geometric Harmony.
ALL SHOPPED OUT Too much excitement for one day? You can choose to stay the night – nearly all these mega-malls incorporate topend hotels. At Seasons Place you’ll find the Ritz-Carlton and at in01 Yintai the Park Hyatt, while both Parkview Green and Taikoo Li Sanlitun boast stylish boutique options. At the former, the 100-room Eclat Hotel is moody and adult – the lobby is all dark, masculine tones, and rooms show playful hints of brightness contrasted with clean whites. Over at Taikoo Li Sanlitun, the Opposite House is one of Beijing’s most lusted-after boutique hotels, a vision in natural, understated tones; the look as a whole oozes minimalism and sophistication. You can’t help but feel calm and relaxed there, no matter how intensive your day at the designer outlets has been. But what’s the use of great services, entertainment or places to crash if you
can’t get a decent bite to eat? And here comes the death knell for the standard food court: Beijing’s new mega-malls have also become dining destinations in their own right. At Seasons Place, visitors can pick from nine different restaurants, each of them polished with a sleek, fashionable, fine-dining look – no sloppy burgers or dirty dining trays here. Meanwhile the Park Hyatt at in01 doubles as a top place to chow down; its China Grill, with 360-degree views around Beijing’s glittering skyline, contains some of the most coveted tables around. You’ll need a serious appetite to handle the offering at Taikoo Li Sanlitun – there are a whopping 54 eating options, spanning from quick fixes like Starbucks or Pizza Express to a range of Asian-inflected restaurants including Haru (a Japanese teppanyaki and sushi bar) and a restaurant specialising in hot-pot cuisine. Comparatively, Parkview Green might only be able to claim a dozen offerings, but almost are all aimed at a finer – and famed – level of dining. There’s Du Hsiao Yueh, an outpost of a
popular 30-year-old noodle restaurant, and My Humble House, serving up ‘new Chinese cuisine’ in the same vein as its celebrated original in Singapore. Keeping with the trend, hungry shoppers will also find a branch of Hakata Ikkousha, a Japanese ramen shop that has won numerous prizes for its exceptional-quality porky broth and silky noodles. There’s little you won’t find in Beijing’s glossy new mega-malls. But the best bit about them is that – geographically, anyway – they’re brilliantly accessible. In a rapidly changing capital, buildings of this scale and creativity within the city centre remain a real possibility – a case that doesn’t exist in many of the larger hubs in Europe or the US, where bigger projects are typically forced into difficult-to-reach suburbs. Embrace it: pick up your Prada in the sumptuous environs of in88 and nibble your way through the traditional night market at next door’s long-standing Wangfujing. As we’ve said, Beijing does old-with-new very, very well. ◆
BEIJING 128
Five mustdo malls
Where to eat
Parkview Green
Parkview Green
An environmentally friendly piece of modern architecture. 9 Dongdaqiao Rd, Chaoyang, parkviewgreen.com
in88 Beijing Wangfujing Yintai High-end labels and exquisite floral arrangements. 88 Wangfujing Avenue, Dongcheng
in01 Beijing Yintai Centre Cartier, Dior, Hermes, Bottega Veneta – need we say more? 2 Jiangoumenwai Street, Jianguomen yintai-centre.com
Taikoo Li Sanlitun A go-to mall for the fashionconscious ‘it’ crowd. Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang taikoolisanlitun.com
Seasons Place With the Ritz-Carlton next door, Seasons Place is all class. Financial Street, Xicheng seasonsplace.com
There’s Opera Bombana for Italian, Dadong for regional cuisine in a sunken courtyard and My Humble House for Chinese/international fusion meals.
in88 Beijing Wangfujing Yintai
Have a meat feast at Hai Di Lao Hot Pot or head to Meizhou Dongpo Restaurant.
in01 Beijing Yintai Centre
China Grill boats 360-degree city views while XIU is best for cocktails in a rooftop garden.
Taikoo Li Sanlitun There’s an international smorgasbord of foods at Sanlitun. Isola serves Italian, Sukhothai features a Thai menu and Cantina Agave dishes up Mexican.
Seasons Place
Enjoy Japanese teppanyaki at Haiku and refuel with a caffeine hit at Pacific Coffee.
Student living space
Residential courtyard
Student accommodation
Dining and social space
Boarding returns to Wesley To open in 2017, this exciting, multipurpose, senior years (Years 10-12) residential development will be a dynamic and diverse community, providing a vibrant and safe environment to stimulate the intellectual, emotional, physical, social, cultural and spiritual development of the students in residence. Wesley’s international reputation for academic excellence will be further enhanced by this residential experience. For further information please contact Carolyn Roney, Admissions Manager, International and Learning in Residence, carolyn.roney@wesleycollege.net or telephone + 61 3 8102 6617.
CRICOS 00354G ABN 38 994 063 473
Elsternwick • Glen Waverley • St Kilda Road
C e l e b r a t i n g 15 0 y e a r s 18 6 6 – 2 016
ALL THE LUXURIES OF THE WEST
SERVED WITH THE CHARM OF THE EAST AU.CEAIR.COM
NEWS 131
DIAMOND JUBILEE
万国表 IWC万国表为庆祝葡萄牙系列诞生75周年,推出一款加入 了万年历以及采用52850型号机芯驱动的全新特别版腕表。 售价:$43,000 IWC Schaffhausen is celebrating the 75th birthday of one of its watch families: the Portugieser. To commemorate the milestone the new collection comes with a host of technological and design modifications with both an annual calendar and IWC-manufactured 52850 calibre. $43,000, iwc.com/retail
NEWS
Most wanted
EVERYTHING LUXURY, FROM COLLECTORS’ ITEMS TO CUSTOM-MADE DESIGNER PIECES
Amazing Grace
南海珍珠一向是天然美和优雅的象征 澳大利亚女演员黄芝琪是KAILIS新任 品牌形象大使的最佳人选 ACCENDO系列鲜红色戒指售价 $13,800
132
South Sea pearls are the epitome of natural beauty and elegance, which makes Australian actress, Grace Huang, the perfect choice as Kailis’s new Asia Ambassador. Accendo ring in Chinese red $13,800, kailisjewellery.com.au
BLUE CHIP SNAKE CHARM 宝格丽全新2015年经典SERPENTI蛇形设计系列再添新款 以粉 金 珍珠母贝和钻石精心打造 SERPENTI粉金戒指以珍珠母贝 为蛇头 蛇身饰以明亮钻石 售价 $11,650 Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti design gets a revamp with the new 2015 collection. The latest pieces feature pink gold, mother of pearl and diamonds. Serpenti pink gold ring with mother of pearl head and pavé diamond $11,650, bulgari.com
昼夜交替的魔幻时刻带来的优雅深蓝色令人屏息 正是这款以手工精制而成的大班暮蓝系列的设计灵 感源泉 售价 $2,020 Inspired by that moment of twilight each evening when the horizon is basked in a deep blue hue, Montblanc brings you the handcrafted Meisterstück Blue Hour. $2,020, montblanc.com
Travel companion 便
LE MAKEUP系列便 式彩妆 彩 了 部 部和眼部的彩妆 品 小 轻 让您在 上也能保持完美妆容 仅售于 和 斯 的 售价 $ 8 This precious palette lets you go glam on-the-go with iconic Givenchy Le Make-Up products for face, eyes and lips. Its compact size is a perfect fit for carry-on. Only available dutyfree Sydney and Perth Airports $98. givenchybeauty.com
Q&A
NEWS
TAKEN UP A WATCH
Chris Hatcher, chief winemaker at Wolf Blass, discusses how good wine doesn’t have to come with a big price tag
早在2011年 FRANCK MULLER已推出 直径达20毫米的GIGA TOURBILLON陀飞 轮腕表 此款腕表目前仍然是钟表界最巨 大的陀飞轮表 4年后的今天 FRANCK MULLER在其框架上镶嵌了56颗钻 石 GIGA TOURBILLON SETTED BRIDGE腕表售价 $POA Launched in 2011, the Franck Muller Giga Tourbillon still holds the record as the biggest Tourbillon in the watch-making universe. Four years later, it has been updated with 56 diamonds set into the 20mm cage. Giga Tourbillon Setted Bridge $POA. franckmuller.com
133
What are the things that inspire you most in your winemaking?
BACK TO BASICS
在酿酒的过程中最能启发您的是什么东西 Australia has a wonderful diversity of wine from elegant cool climate to rich full-bodied styles. As we have matured as winemakers there is now much more focus on viticulture and the expression of the different regional and sub-regional characters than ever before. 澳大利亚拥有着多元化的酒款 从凉爽气候优雅的到浓郁 醇厚的葡萄酒 应有尽有 作为经验比较丰富的酿酒师 我们比以前更加注重于葡萄种植和发挥不同地区及分区 的特质
BOTTEGA VENETTA全新推 出 实用 奢华的OSTRICH 系列皮革背 Practicality meets luxury with Bottega Veneta’s new range of Ostrich leather backpacks, bottegaveneta.com
What’s always overlooked? 那种酒款总是被人忽略
On the go 运动鞋已不再限于休闲时段 才能穿的鞋款 TOD’S 2016 秋天系列的皮革鞋履让您轻松 配搭正式西服套装 保持一 整天的舒适穿着感受 售价 $POA Sneakers with shoes is no longer a look restricted to the morning commute to work. Tod’s Autumn 2016 Collection makes it possible to pair fine leather, loafer-like sneakers with a suit for ultimate, all-day comfort. $POA. tods.com.au
In my opinion, Rieslings are really underrated. Wines from Eden and Clare Valleys are world-class. They are great when young and fruity, but will also age well for about 20-30 years. You can buy some incredible-quality Rieslings for less than $20 too. 在我看来 雷司令的价值被低估了 来自伊登山谷 EDEN VALLEY 和克莱尔谷 CLARE VALLEY 的酒达世界级水 准 在其年轻 果香味浓的时候已经是一款很棒的酒 也 适合存20-30年才细味品尝 不到$20块钱便能买到质量 非常好的雷司令
Your best food and wine matching advice? 您对美酒佳肴搭配的建议 My advice is to find the wines you like and then experiment with different food styles to find the combinations you like. I think any food and wine combination must also always be in balance without dominance from either. 我的建议是找到一款自己喜欢的酒之后 用它来搭配不 同食物来做实验 测试出那个搭配是您最喜欢的 我觉得 无论是什么样的搭配 两者应该是互相补充而不是互相 抢味
FA S H I O N
Dolce & Gabbana, $185, dolcegabbana.com
Mulberry, $185, mulberry.com
Givenchy, $2578, givenchy.com Hackett, $1513, hackett.com Alfred Dunhill, $337, dunhill.com
134 Alexander McQueen, $3605, alexandermcqueen.com
Kingsman, $2844, mrporter.com
Fifty shades of grey
Montblanc Meisterst端ck Heritage Moonphase, $17,600
LIGHTEN UP YOUR WARDROBE WITH A SOFTER SHADE Saint Laurent, $705, ysl.com/au
Gucci, $481, gucci.com/au
Alfred Dunhill, $321, dunhill.com
SOP1095
FA S H I O N
Under wraps THE TRENCH COAT IS AN ESSENTIAL PIECE FOR EVERY SEASON Burberry London, $2270, au.burberry.com
136
Isabel Marant, $1214, isabelmarant.com
Bouchra Jarrar, $3780, bouchrajarrar.com Burberry London, $5490, au.burberry.com
Malene Birger, $780, bymalenebirger.com Barbara Casasola, $1695, barbaracasasola.com
Michael Lo Sordo, $854, michaellosordo.com
BE AUT Y
First base 全新香奈儿Vitalumière活力亮泽轻盈蜜粉底注入“高清光线色素”捕捉及散射 更柔和的光线 为肌肤缔造柔嫩透亮效果 售价 $POA A luminous foundation base will give you a youthful glow. Vitalumière by Chanel has high-definition light pigments that captures and diffuses softer light, which is more flattering for the complexion. POA, chanel.com
138
New romantics FALL IN LOVE WITH ROSY CHEEKS, SOFT LIPS AND WINGED EYE-LINER, AS ROMANTICISM RETURNS TO THE RUNWAY
AT FIRST BLUSH 胭脂的最高境界便是与肌肤融合为一 缔造健康 自然 零负担的妆容 迪奥 DIORBLUSH亮彩胭脂系列的纯粉红色以细腻微粒粉末完美沁入肌肤 留下透薄 轻盈的纯净色彩 售价 $72 When it comes to the cheeks you’re aiming to attain a rosy, pinched-cheek look – just as they would have done in the 1800s. Dior’s Diorblush in Miss Pink is the perfect shade of pink and its micronised powder texture blends seamlessly with the skin giving it a weightless, natural look. $72, dior.com
Eye candy 甜美睫毛
零瑕疵眼影
个性夸张眼线
柔韧弯长的美睫是妆容的重点 全 新兰蔻新梦魅睫毛膏从睫毛根部瞬 间延展塑造每根睫毛 打造浓密卷 翘且根根分明的美睫 售价 $52
作为眼线的背景 带有轻微珠光粉 的眼影能把眼睛瞬间提亮 伊丽莎 白雅顿美彩眼影SEASHELL贝壳色 号 售价 $38
黑色眼线笔是打造出魅力四射的飞 翼眼线不可缺少的工具 圣罗兰炫 黑眼线液让你轻松画出流畅的眼 线 勾画出精致迷人的明眸 售价 $60
Luscious lashes
Barely-there eyeshadow
Long, soft lashes are key to completing this look. Lancome’s Hypnose Mascara Powerfull brush thickens lashes from root to tip, wrapping lashes one layer at a time without smearing or smudging. Lancome Hypnose Mascara $52, lancome.com.au
Acting as a backdrop for your liner, an eyeshadow with a slight shimmer will illuminate your lid without drawing too much attention. Elizabeth Arden Beautiful Colour Eye Shadow in Seashell $38, elizabetharden.com
Dramatic liner A black felt-tipped pen eyeliner is the most precise way to achieve a winged look. Yves Saint Laurent’s ‘Eyeliner Effet Faux Cils’ Bold Felt Tip Eyeliner Pen smoothly glides onto the eye, tracing the shape of your lid from the centre. $60, ysl.com/au
悉尼最佳上海料理
The Best Shanghai Food in Sydney 上海天同餐飲集團以傳承中華美食及文化為己任,在保留傳統上海本幫 菜濃油赤醬精髓的基礎上推陳出新,廣納中國南北各大菜系特色,詮釋 澳洲最愛的本地口味,並成為澳洲家喻戶曉的著名餐飲品牌。
Taste of Shanghai Group bears responsibility in the passing of legacy and Chinese food culture, in reserving the traditional Shanghai “ben bang” style and the use of think soya and red cooking sauce, we the develop new products on these basis, consuming different styles of food from northern and southern China, expressing the popular Aussie flavour, in transiting into a well known brand in Australia.
SHANGHAI STORIES 1938 CHATSWOOD T +61 2 9412 3880 F +61 2 9412 1380 Shop 4&6, The Concourse 405-409 Victoria Av Chatswood NSW 2067 BROADWAY T +61 2 9211 9284 F +61 2 9211 5378 Broadway Shopping Centre 1 Bay St, Ultimo NSW 2007
TASTE OF SHANGHAI WORLD SQUARE T +61 2 9261 8832 F +61 2 9264 8850 Shop 9.07, 644 George St
EASTWOOD T +61 2 9804 0388 F +61 2 9804 0399 200 Rowe St
ASHFIELD T +61 2 9798 2877 F +61 2 9798 2833 264 Liverpool Rd
HURSTVILLE T +61 2 9585 8826 F +61 2 9585 8853 177 Forest Road
tasteofshanghai.com.au
Secret garden Erdem's Resort 2016 Collection is a romantic, lady-like mix of flowers, lace and frills
神秘花园 Erdem2016度假系列既浪 漫又充满女人味 融合了花朵 蕾丝和荷叶边的元素
141
FA S H I O N
142 FA S H I O N
143
FA S H I O N
144 FA S H I O N
145
FA S H I O N
FA S H I O N 146
All looks available from Erdem erdem.com
eshop.ramint.gov.au 1300 652 020 Intl ph: +61 2 6202 6800
Bohemian rhapsody Chloé's Pre-Fall 2015 Collection channels the carefree 70s with flowing flares, crochet and tweed
波西米亚狂想曲 Chloé2015早秋系列以阔腿喇叭裤 钩针 和花呢打造70年代洒脱随意的风尚感
149
FA S H I O N
150 FA S H I O N
151
FA S H I O N
152 FA S H I O N
153
FA S H I O N
FA S H I O N 154
All looks available from ChloĂŠ chloe.com
Natural Attraction
Sydney 60 Pitt Street T. 02 9247 6344
Melbourne
HIGHER VIEW
119 Swanston Street T. 03 9662 3524
www.nationalopal.com
HIGHER VIEW
SHOPPING 156
Steeped in tradition PIAGET HAS BEEN INNOVATING FOR OVER 150 YEARS
创始人Georges Edouard Piaget的制表理念是一句 简单的金句“永远做得比要求更好”。经过一个半世纪, 伯爵始终秉承着这份愿景
HOROLOGY
精益求精
Always do better Georges Edouard Piaget’s watchmaking philosophy was encapsulated by a simple motto: to ‘always do better than necessary’. A century and a half on, the company has not lost sight of its founder’s vision
P
iaget is no stranger to pushing boundaries. Since the company’s inception, it has made a habit of achieving what was often thought impossible, making some of the thinnest complications of their time and breaking all sorts of records along the way. Its relatively recent jewellery designs have been no different. From roseenclosed watches to exquisitely rare diamant haute joaillerie pieces, creativity and modernity
伯
爵精益求精的精 神使其创造出史 无前例的杰作, 打造出世界上最纤薄的复 杂腕表,在制表领域独领 风骚。他家的珠宝系列也 如此。从玫瑰金腕表到稀 珍罕有的高级珠宝,伯爵 的每个设计均兼具创意与 时尚。伯爵敢于创新的同 时也富有悠久的历史背景 remain at the forefront of every design. 与传统。 While Piaget is a company that embraces 品牌从第一天起便以 innovation, it’s also steeped in history and “永远做得比要求的更好” tradition. Its motto from day one has been 为座右铭,这种精神在 ‘always do better than necessary’, and it’s what 每一个系列当中发挥的 resonates throughout its collections. 淋漓尽致。伯爵从创始人 From the beginning, Piaget has sought to constantly improve its brand. This began with the founder himself, Georges Edouard Piaget. It was in La Cote-aux-Fees – a quaint village in the Swiss part of the Jura – that Georges sketched the first strokes of what decades later was to become an inimitable signature in the world of luxury and fine watchmaking. His first workshop was humble. Set up in 1874 on his family farm, Georges devoted his time to making high-precision movements that Georges Edouard Piaget he soon began supplying to prestigious brands. 开始一直以来不断挑战自 His fame spread quickly and far beyond the 我,力求进步。 crests of the mountains around Neuchatel, led 1874年,乔治在瑞 by the demand of those who already recognised 士 侏 罗 山 区 的 小 村 庄 L a his signature on a movement as being a mark Côte-aux-Fées安家立业, of seldom-equalled expertise. 并在数十年后成为奢华与 Decades later, Georges’ grandsons Gerald 精准腕表的代名词。他在 and Valentin made the bold move to break 自家农舍开设了首家机芯
“伯爵手镯腕表再次颠 覆钟表界,成为高级制 表工艺的象征” 制造工作坊,专门为瑞士 著名钟表品牌制作性能精 准的高质机芯。蒸蒸日上 的钟表事业得到迅速发展, 而伯爵的声望也远远超出 了纽沙特地区,名扬海外。 出自伯爵之手的钟表机芯, 皆是以无出其右的精湛工 艺制作而成,倍受各界肯
157
Signature range
HOROLOGY
OVER 100 PIECES COMPRISE PIAGET’S ROSE COLLECTION
158
“敢于创新的同时 也富有着悠久的 历史背景与传统”
Rosy prospects PIAGET’S ROSE COLLECTION IS ONE OF ITS MOST FAMOUS
定,为品牌手表制作坊赢 推出全球首只以钻石 来极高的声望。 为时标的腕表后,伯爵 在 创 办 人 孙 子 辈 发布的手镯腕表再次颠 Gérald和Valentin Piaget 覆钟表界,马上成为高 两人的掌舵下,决定把 级制表工艺的象征。 专 门 生 产 机 芯 的 伯 爵 注 “与众不同”成为了伯爵的 away from established brands. From that point 册 为 品 牌 名 称 , 自 己 打 品牌风格。 on, they would only produce movements sold 造结合精湛工艺技术与 此举带领公司进入了 under their own name, created with the same 美观外形的腕表,冠上 珠宝领域。拥有精湛手艺 close attention to aesthetics and technical “Piaget ”标志,伯爵品牌 的技师与世界上最耀眼的 performance. Thus began the Piaget brand as 由此诞生。 钻石,伯爵呈献独一无二 we know it today. 伯爵坚持带领先锋的 的珠宝设计,其中包括高 精神,投身超薄机芯的设 级珠宝系列。 POINTS OF DIFFERENCE 计和制造,随之成为品牌 高级珠宝系列以玫瑰 Faithful to its pioneering spirit, Piaget 的“象征”。1957年伯爵 为主题,整个系列都是环 began to design and build the ultra-thin 推出著名的9P手动上链超 绕着玫瑰来创作。伯爵对 movements that would eventually become 薄机械腕表,厚度仅为2毫 玫瑰钟爱有加,甚至把 the company’s signature. In 1957, Piaget 米;1960年,伯爵推出厚 玫瑰名为伊芙•伯爵玫瑰 introduced the famous ultra-thin hand-wound 度仅有2.3毫米的12P腕表, (Yves Piaget Rose)。伊 Calibre 9P, which measured just 2mm thick. 成为世界最纤薄的自动上 芙玫瑰拥有80片圆齿边花 In 1960, it launched the Calibre 12P, the 链机械机芯。 瓣和无与伦比的馥郁芳香, world’s thinnest self-winding movement, 这两款杰作的问世激 其美态非同凡响,就如伯 coming in at 2.3mm. 发了伯爵设计师无拘无束 爵Piaget Rose Passion系 With the reduced sized of these two 的创意,创作出多款精致 列中的高级珠宝一样。这 mechanical calibres and their successors, 独特的腕表:推出超薄表、 高级珠宝系列极其浩大, Piaget’s designers had introduced a completely 大型表盘、金币表,长方 荟萃100件充满创意的作 new perspective on watch design. The minute 形表款等。大胆创新,打 品,展现伯爵的精湛技艺 complications opened up all sorts of creative 造多种在当代钟表史上从 和珠宝制作工艺。从腕表、 possibilities: ultra-thin profiles, generously 未出现过的表款。 珠宝到高级珠宝作品,每
HOROLOGY 159
“THESE TWO MECHANICAL CALIBRES AND THEIR SUCCESSORS BROUGHT A NEW P E R S P E C T I V E O N WAT C H D E S I G N ”
sized details, coin watches, shaped cases – these were wrist pieces previously unseen in the watch community. After the introduction of its world-first watches featuring dials made of hard stone, Piaget caused a shift in the watch world again with the launch of the cuff watch, which instantaneously became a symbol of precious watchmaking. Difference became Piaget’s style.
NEW HORIZONS This new-found creativity in the company led to an expanded set of interests. With access to fine craftsmen and some of the world’s most stunning diamonds, Piaget decided to
件作品都生动演绎了玫瑰 的主题。 伯爵不仅热衷于玫瑰, 高级珠宝系列中的作品全 都是娇柔艳丽的花朵。全 新推出的Mediterranean Garden高级珠宝系列 以蔚蓝海岸(French Riviera)迷人奢华的生活 方式为灵感。伯爵精湛的 工艺除了在最奢华的高级 珠宝中发挥到极致之外, 在其整个的珠宝系列中同 样能看到这种卓越的工艺 技术。 为庆祝Possession系列 上市25周年,伯爵隆重呈 献的新系列汇聚了品牌的 精髓及传统,兼具高级奢 华又大胆创新的风格。 Possession系列的特色
是第二个指环能转动,为 佩带者提供无比的享受。 经常佩戴指环的人,特别 是女士们,一定懂得玩弄 指环的乐趣,甚至对大部 分人来讲已经成为一种习 惯。这是在压力下或极 度集中时会做出的一种行 为,能有效舒缓压力,带 来镇静的效果。这也是 Possession系列戒指设计 旋转指环的原因。 跟伯爵之前的杰作一 样,新的系列延续挑战自 我,打破钟表界和珠宝界 常规,打造出独一无二的 设计,力图臻于登峰造极 的境界。约141年后,品 Keeping watch PIAGET HAS ALWAYS 牌依然受创始人乔治的座 BEEN INNOVATIVE IN 右铭“永远做得比要求的 ITS HOROLOGICAL 更好”所启发。◆ DESIGNS
L AST WORD
MY HIGHER LIFE
Mark Webber We chat to Formula 1 driver and Chopard’s new ambassador, Mark Webber, about a few of his favourite things – cars, watches and his pet dogs... 我们跟一级方程式赛车手兼萧邦新任品牌大使Mark Webber畅谈 他最喜爱的几样东西——名车、腕表以及他的宠物狗 Are you a watch lover? I wouldn't claim to be a great connoisseur but I do like a fine watch that combines reliability with a timeless classic look. Chopard watches match my tastes perfectly and the Superfast collection combines all the qualities I see as essential: high-tech and daring but subtle lines. They seem to capture the true essence of racing.
162
您是个爱表之人吗? 我不会说自己是个很专业的内行人,可是我喜欢性能可靠稳 定以及拥有经典外观的高质腕表。萧邦的腕表完全符合我的 口味,其Superfast系列拥有一切我看重的元素:高科技和大 胆却细致的线条,捕捉了赛车的精萃。
What's your motto? Be consistent and be true to yourself. Treat others the way you want to be treated. And because I never know what's around the next corner in life, make the most of every moment.
您的座右铭是什么? 保持一致并且对自己真诚。己所不欲,物施于人。而且生活中 我不知道下一秒会发生什么事情,所以我会更加善用每一分每 一秒。
For what activity can you always spare 10 minutes? I can always find 10 minutes to play with my dogs, whom I adore.
什么活动让您愿意花十分钟的时间? 比如做伸展活动或瑜伽!这两件事情是我应该定时进行的,可是说实话, 我觉得它们很沉闷而且毫无刺激感,所以我经常找理由推搪不做。
Which track is your favourite I particularly like Silverstone, because it's a very demanding track that covers the complete range of speeds. Suzuka is another one of my favourites. Its narrow track is one of the most difficult in Formula 1.
您最喜欢哪条赛道? 我特别喜欢银石赛道,因为它是一条非常具挑 战性的赛道,要求赛手以各种的车速进行。另外 一个我十分喜欢的是铃鹿赛道,其狭窄的车道 是一级方程式赛事中难道最高的。要在这里完 成完美的一圈是非常有难度的。 Mark Webber is wearing the Superfast Chrono $39,510, chopard.com 萧邦Superfast系列腕表$39,510
“I NEVER K N O W W H AT ’ S AROUND THE NEXT CORNER IN LIFE. MAKE THE M O S T O F E V E RY MOMENT”
悉尼歌剧院 旅游与体验 一边在悉尼海港之畔品尝美食 一边尽情欣赏世界上最迷人的海港美景 参观被联合国教科文组 织列为世界文化遗产的建筑物 探寻悉尼歌剧院设计师——约翰•乌松 Jørn Utzon) 的设计方案 如何在历经波折后终得面世的传奇故事 您将走进世界上最大没有支柱的建筑物 参观神圣庄严的各个剧场和大厅 入不同的区域 从绝佳的角度拍摄精美照片
与此同时
还可以进
网上预定节省 10%
SY D N E Y O P E R A H O U S E P R I N C I PA L PA RT N E R
关注悉尼歌剧院新浪微博 可到悉尼歌剧院售票处现场购票或在线预订 电邮: sydneyoperahouse.com/tours 电话: +61 2 9250 7250