In Praise of the Taco

In England around 1762, the Fourth Earl of Sandwich (aka John Montegu) famously called for some roast beef between two slices of bread, so he could keep gambling whilst dining, and the “sandwich” was born. Was that the first easy-delivery meat-within-wrapper system ever devised? Not even close. The taco predates it by at least a century and a half. And now it’s impossible to imagine a taco-less world, especially in Santa Barbara, which might offer more tacos per capita than anywhere on Earth.

No one knows exactly where or when the first taco was made. In fact, the origins of the word itself are unclear. Early dictionaries mention things

like plugs, billiard cues, and little sticks of dynamite, none of which (except for the last one) bear any relation to delicious savories folded within a crispy tortilla.

And frankly, nobody cares about the word or the history. It’s the deliciousness that matters, and Santa Barbara takes that deliciousness seriously. So much so that the simple taco has exploded into dozens of variations here, limited only by the chefs’ imaginations, which appear to be limitless.

Take, for instance, the cauliflower taco at Corazon Cocina. That’s right – cauliflower, plus radishes, avocados, roasted almonds, and tomatillo salsa, rolled up into something unexpectedly delectable.

Can you put, say, the succulent meat of a waterfowl cooked in its own fat into one? That would be the fivespice confit duck taco, with amped-up cucumbers and more, at Goa Taco.

Okay, let’s try even more different, like maybe fermented soy? That’s your tempeh taco at the Natural Café, which involves melted cheese and a tomato sauce.

We could go on, through variations including steak and ahi poke and grilled shrimp, etc. and etc., but you get the idea. The selection is hugely varied and just about ubiquitous.

And not just here. Tacos are taking over worldwide. There are books about them, including the aggressive “Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America,” by Gustavo Arellano. (Think “conquered” is too strong a word? Think again. Some people who keep track of such things say salsa is now the No. 1 U.S. condiment, surpassing even red-blooded American ketchup.)

There are stories about the taco tsunami in prestigious publications, including Smithsonian and the New York Times. And of course there’s a National Taco Day. (It’s Oct. 4. Still time to prepare!)

So the little U-shaped delight has come a long way since it was introduced to norteamericano taste buds mostly by Taco Bell. Yes, that restaurant chain, which was launched by Glen Bell in Downey, CA, in 1962, franchised in 1964, and sold to PepsiCo in 1978, gets a lot of the credit for the taco’s huge global upsurge. How huge? You can now get a Cheesy Gordita Crunch in Cyprus, a Chalupa Supreme in India, and a Fiery Doritos Locos Supreme in South Korea. The company’s 7,000 restaurants now serve more than 2 billion customers a year. That’s a heap of tacos all over the place.

But, of course, for a killer taco there’s no reason to leave home. Opal Restaurant & Bar hopped on the taco train around Christmas and “it was an instant hit,” said Richard Yates, co-owner with Tina Takaya. Why so popular? In addition to delicious it’s versatile. Although it’s listed on the appetizer menu, it “bridges the gap between appetizer and dinner,” Yates said.

Opal’s version is a salmon taco with pico de gallo, housemade salsa and a little chipotle aioli. “So it’s got some spice counterbalanced by the richness of the salmon,” Yates said. “It’s a nice dish with a lot of flavors.”

Too nice, maybe. Kind of a double-edged sword, he said, referring to one regular who used to try everything on the menu but is now hooked on the tacos. “We made something a little too good,” he said.

“I wonder how many are sold in Santa Barbara every day,” mused Dave Vignoe. “You can buy them in at least 100 different places around town.”

Turns out Vignoe is a good one to ask about numbers, since he’s the bookkeeper at Chuck’s Waterfront Grill on the harbor. “It’s definitely one of our most popular items. I can tell you exactly how many we sold last month.” The answer: 500 salmon tacos, 480 Baja fish tacos, and 460 other fish variety tacos. That’s 1,440 tacos. Multiply that by 100 different establishments and you’ve got a taco typhoon. BTW, does Vignoe like tacos? “Sure. Who doesn’t?” That’s it in a crispy shell.

Corazon Cocina: Cauliflower taco The cauliflower taco at Corazon Cocina is the most luxurious taco in town, never mind that it’s vegetarian. Bite into golden tempura nuggets of soft cauliflower and lux avocado, thin slices of brilliantly pink, tart radish, rich roasted almonds, and the occasional wicked hot dollop of tomatillo salsa, all held in a homemade corn tortilla. www.corazoncocinasb.com

Mesa Verde: Vegan street taco Sit down and dig in to this meaty jackfruit taco with tart blueberry salsa, purple radishes, and sweet red onion, turnips fermented in turmeric, cacao-tinged black beans, and thick corn tortillas crispy at the edges. On top, a sprinkle of purple flowers and chives. The last thing you’ll be thinking about this beauty is the fact that it’s vegan. www.mesaverderestaurant.com

La Super-Rica Taqueria: Tacos de hongos The tortillas are fresh off the griddle at this legendary taco stand. Order the mushroom tacos and dig into a mound of deeply rich mahogany mushrooms with cream sauce and caramelized onions. The rich sweetness is cut with salsa fresca. You will not leave hungry!

Mony’s Mexican Food: Tacos de rajas Try the tacos de rajas at Mony’s, filled with strips of smoky sautéed pasilla chilies, soft onions, cheese that has been grilled with crispy edges and an oozy middle. Add the avocado salsa or go wild and try the pistachio salsa. www.monyssb.com

East Beach Tacos: Ahi poke taco The home run at East Beach, nestled next to the batting cages, is the ahi poke tacos. A crisp wonton taco shell holds a mother lode of impeccably fresh ahi poke, seasoned with sesame oil, a nose-tingling hit of wasabi mayo, pickled red onions, and the sweet crunch of cabbage. Order the triple play; three will go down easy! www.eastbeachtacos.com

Los Agaves Restaurant: Tacos del mar Los Agaves’s tacos del mar offer a bounty of grilled shrimp nestled in creamy chipotle aioli on homemade tortillas, lightly shredded cabbage, and little gems of mango dotted on top. For this, you want the smoky bass note of their roasted tomato salsa. Delicious! www.los-agaves.com

Shoreline Cafe: Baja style fish tacos The taco with the best view in town! Mild cod fried in crispy batter, substantial strips of cabbage, tangy tomato, and little hints of cilantro and red onion, topped with aioli. Sink your toes in the sand, watch the waves, and enjoy beachfront tacos! www.shorelinebeachcafe.com

Natural Cafe: Tempeh tacos For a healthy vibe and a change of pace, try the tempeh tacos at the Natural. Dip into melted cheese; a light, fragrant tomato sauce; nutty tempeh (fermented soy); and… yes, sprouts! Comes with blue corn chips and mild salsa. www.thenaturalcafe.com

Goa Taco: Duck taco Fusion tacos at their best. Try the five-spice confit duck, rich and succulent, with cucumbers pickled in hot mustard. A little radish and sesame for flavor, in a light, flaky paratha taco shell. Add a side order of fried garbanzo beans coated with garam masala. www.goataco.com

Kanaloa Seafood: Korean salmon taco Stop by for lunch and treat yourself to Kanaloa’s most requested taco: superbly fresh salmon garnished with puckery pickles, a light cilantro slaw, funky-in-the-best-way kimchi aioli, and a spicy vegetable sambal relish. We also really like the spicy octopus. Delicious!! www.kanaloaseafood.com

Paradise Café: Steak tacos The secret to the amazing flavors of all the Paradise tacos is that the meat is grilled over Santa Maria live oak giving them a smoky goodness found nowhere else. The steakhouse taco meal features three crispy grilled corn tortillas with melted Jack cheese and chilies served with a Caesar salad and avocado salsa. You might also check out the swordfish and shrimp versions. www.paradisecafe.com

Viva Modern Mexican: Chef’s carne tacos A trio of the chef’s best: Chicken, split-roasted pork, and braised short rib. Comes with tres chilies and pineapple salsas, shaved cabbage, and choice of corn or flour tortilla. www.vivasb.com

Opal Restaurant & Bar: Salmon taco with pico de gallo, house made salsa and a splash of chipotle aioli. www.opalrestaurantandbar.com

Blue Water Grill: Fish tacos Offered only at lunch, the fish tacos have a taste as fresh as the sea itself. Choice of blackened mahi mahi, shrimp, or crispy fried cod, with flour or corn tortillas, avocado, shredded cabbage, tomato, tomatillo salsa, and cotija cheese. www.bluewatergrill.com

Santa Barbara Shellfish Co.: Lobster tacos Perch yourself at the end of Stearns Wharf overlooking the ocean and order the seasonal fresh lobster tacos sautéed with tomatoes, shallots, garlic, and basil. Warm corn tortillas, Spanish rice, creamy salsa, and avocado finish off this decadent dish. www.shellfishco.com

Carlitos Café Y Cantina: Rock shrimp tacos Across from the historic Arlington Theater you’ll find these rock shrimp with chunky papaya salsa, sour cream, and handmade corn tortillas. www.carlitos.com

Endless Summer Café: Los Cabos tacos Enjoy a bird’s eye view of the marina as you dine on the legendary Los Cabos tacos. Fresh fish from the neighboring seafood market is wrapped up in two corn tortillas, topped with a tangy jalapeño sauce, with homemade refried beans and Spanish rice on the side. www.chuckswaterfrontgrill.com

On The Alley: Spicy chipotle pork taco Features roasted pork, queso fresco, pickled onions, cilantro, and mango salsa. At just $4.50 it’s one of the better values on the waterfront. www.onthealley.com

Benchmark Eatery: Carnitas tacos A medley of very tasty braised pork, pickled onion, pico de gallo, queso fresco, and cilantro on corn tortillas. The downtown eatery also features a braised tri-tip and vegetarian taco. www.benchmarkeatery.com

Los Arroyos: Fish tacos Since opening his first store on Anapamu in 1999, Tony Arroyo has made is mark by serving simple, handmade food from the freshest local ingredients. The fish tacos are just that: two handmade corn tortillas topped with fresh cabbage, grilled local halibut, and Tony’s secret pepper sauce. www.losarroyos.net

Santa Barbara FisHouse: Fish Tacos Santa Barbara FisHouse gives you the option to upgrade your taco from fresh fish (usually halibut, sometimes mahimahi, always sustainable) to shrimp ($1 more) or lobster ($2 more). Your filling of choice is sautéed (or grilled upon request) with pico de gallo and garlic on top of two eight-inch corn tortillas, with crunchy cabbage and the restaurant’s special secret taco sauce. Available at lunch or happy hour only. Lunch portion includes avocado and spicy black beans. www.fishousesb.com

Longboard’s Grill: Lobster tacos Fresh Maine lobster tacos served with soft flour tortillas, rice, beans, fresh guacamole, and salsa. Great flavors paired with the best view in the harbor. www.longboardsgrill.com

Taco Tuyo: Taco cuete Featuring fresh corn tortillas, sweet potato braised in pibil sauce, salsa verde, and pickled red onion. If you want the best plant-based Mexican food in town, give this a try. www. tacotuyo.com

Alcazar: Shrimp taco Shrimp, lemon garlic parsley butter, heirloom tomato, watermelon reddish & radish medley, cabbage, habanero cream, cilantro, roasted tomatillo salsa. www.alcazartapasbar.com

Lilly’s Taqueria: Beef cheek tacos This casual walk-up counter serves an award-winning beef cheek taco steamed to perfection. Dress it up to suit your taste with a large fresh salsa and toppings bar. Their website boasts it’s “as authentic as a taco gets.” And they might be right. www.lillystacos.com

Jane: Special lunch break tacos Every day for lunch, downtown Jane features specials for $12. On Tuesdays it’s fresh Baja-style fish tacos and on Friday it’s the pulled pork. Both versions are served with avocado and salsa and organic green salad. www.janesb.com

Casa Blanca. Filet mignon tacos. Offered at dinner, this dish features a rich avocado salsa, blue corn tortillas, julienned radish, and cilantro and Monterey Jack cheese. www.casablancasb.com

By Jeff Miller