Citylife Vol. 25 No.11 November 2016

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VOL.25

No. 11 November 2016

ChiangMaiCitylife.com

Editorial Client Spot City7 City Talk City Buzz What’s Happening?

City Events

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Design Ideas Music Box

Want to be a Writer?

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A Brave New SOTUS

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Seniority: Order: Tradition: Unity: Spirit.

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Join one of the many support groups in our city

12 Breaking Ground : Chiang Mai to get a new park

Are YOU a Road Rager?

MIX’s Sweet Mix

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Medical Spa at DIAA

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Your Say Adventures of Tom

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Editor in Chief/Director Pim Kemasingki Consultant John Shaw MBE Production Manager Nitkanung Watanakun Deputy Editor Aydan Stuart CityNow! Editor Chalida Supasaen Media Executives Supanat Nantisang, Pattama Wongjan, Chidchanok Tangsongpaibool Head of Graphic Design Pongsak Inthano Graphic Designers Sarinnaphat Chartperawong, Priyawit Nikornpant Photographer Pichaya Choeychom, Apiwat Singharach Photo Contributor Steve Yarnold Interns Sureeporn Tridsadeerak, Sarah Rigby, Seerapan Jarudecharat, Peerattapong Somrang, Chonticha Kuntamoy, Sanhathai Sukya, Pitsinee Khadsai, Phatcharie Kantachai, Phicayathida Khanthong Photo credit to Photography Club of Engineering, Chiang Mai University Student Union of Rajamangala University of Technology Lanna Facebook Page: ANTI SOTUS Company Contacts: Photographer for social events: knot@chiangmaicitylife.com Editorial Team: editor@chiangmaicitylife.com, aydan@chiangmaicitylife.com Sales: salesadmin@chiangmaicitylife.com, Administration: admin@chiangmaicitylife.com Citylife is published by Trisila Company Limited 5 Soi 3/2 Kaewnawarat Road, T.Wat Kate, A.Muang, Chiang Mai 50000 Thailand

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I never got to meet the king. And that is my regret to bear.

Like millions of Thais, however, I have seen him dozens of times. As a child, I used to run excitedly up to the road at the end of our lawn, frantically waving a mini flag, hoping for, and occasionally getting, His Majesty’s attention, as the royal motorcade swept its way to and from Phuping Palace each winter.

Those of us over the age of 35 remember a king who was very present. His daily toil on behalf of some of the country’s most unfortunate was aired daily on television – it was probably the world’s first reality show, as millions watched, for decades, the daily activities of a royal family. We saw him helping the handicapped, orphans, the elderly, the poor, the disenfranchised; we followed his treks through mountains, fording streams and wiping his brows by a cooling waterfall. We saw him take detailed notes on his ever-present map; we watched him, camera in hand, ready to record snapshots of Thailand as he saw it through his lenses; we witnessed him deep into the night, holding meetings with village leaders, patiently listening to their problems and doing his best to alleviate their troubles; and we listened to his annual speech, relishing in his wisdom and reassuringly calm leader-

ship. This was no monarch on a gilded throne; though that too, on occasion, impressed and awed.

Oddly enough, being half British, I have actually met more members of the British royal family here in Thailand than Thailand’s very own! I met Princess Diana and Prince Charles when they visited Chiang Mai in the eighties and HM the Queen at the British Embassy in the nineties. And while I have respect for Queen Elizabeth and was pleased as punch to have met her, my relationship with King Bhumibol is simply put, on another plane. He was a deeply imbedded part of every one of our lives in so many ways. We stood under his flag every morning as school children, pledging our allegiance. His pictures hung in nearly every home in Thailand, as well as in public spaces. His songs are all familiar tunes we hum to ourselves or sing on many special occasions.

We get teary eyed at his photo montage as we stand up to his royal anthem before every movie we watch. But apart from these ingrained habits and rituals, many of us perhaps without knowing, benefit directly from his hard work, whether his engineering efforts, agricultural initiatives, rural development, reforestation programmes…the list goes on.

As most Thais, we knew that the reign of Rama IX would end, and we had time to prepare for it. But I must admit that I didn’t understand how viscerally his death would affect me. Like most of my fellow Thais, my respect and love for His majesty has come through the sheer hard work, dedication and wisdom of a man who led our nation through decades of challenges.

The outpouring of grief has been historic.

I doubt that many men in history have ever been grieved by so many for so long.

Thailand will forever change now that Rama IX is no longer on the throne and while there are days of great uncertainty ahead, let’s try to remember the words of wisdom of our king and honour his legacy by tempering our intolerance towards one another, understanding that everyone grieves differently and ours is not to judge and condemn, but to support and unite.

Like most of the 70 million people in this kingdom, I was born under the reign of Rama IX and frankly I am all the better for it.

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LOCAL

Breaking Ground:

Chiang Mai to get a new park

by Sarah Rigby Photography by Elizabeth H. Gilson and Apiwat Singharach

I feel like I have fallen down a rabbit hole. Having come to Chiang Mai for a month’s writing internship from Indiana, United States, it took me a while to take in the city of Chiang Mai, let alone find a story that hasn’t been written before to pitch the editor.

Wandering around the old city, hunting for ideas, I knew that I wanted to write about art, a scene that is still in its infancy in my home town, and something which has truly excited and inspired me during my short time here.

After a few weeks of foot- and finger-work (on my laptop), I learnt that the now abandoned Women’s Correctional Institution behind the Three King’s Monument was the hub of the city’s graffiti, and having walked past the imposing structure a few times, I knew that it’s outer walls had become giant canvases for street art.

construction workers demolishing a wall. No one shouted at us, so we ventured further inside where, amongst the detritus of demolition, I saw a sign declaring that this space was soon to be turned into a plaza, dedicated to Her Majesty Queen Sirikit. As we walked round the muddy compound, we were surprised to see some buildings still intact with cells, clanging doors and all. It was eerie walking through abandoned canteens, peeking into small dark cells and seeing the spot where executions used to take place in days of old.

So one rainy day I found myself, with Patty a fellow intern, in front of the imposing steel door of the prison. We looked around for signs of life — any signs at all in fact — and since the door was ajar, we pushed the creaking slab of metal and walked inside. Little was I to know that that first step would lead me down an adventure any writer would envy; one involving lost palaces, a century old prison, spooky spirits, bureaucratic hurdles and graffiti artists.

Back at the office I got the go ahead to write a story about what is to become of this piece of land; and as all millennials do, I headed straight to Facebook for research. I discovered on the Chiang Mai Graffitis page that some of the city’s most renowned graffiti artists — CAS, Nap AR, Temmasuk and Muay Cola — were featured on the prison’s walls, and wondered how they felt about plans for the plaza. “The walls have done their job and it is time to move on,” Temmasuk said ambivalently. He said that most of the artists agreed with him, though Muay Cola seemed a bit sadder about the development.

“My main concern that I try to communicate through my art is the negative effects we are having on the environment,” he told me, explaining that his best works can be found on

As we tentatively stepped inside the compound, I saw in the distance some men wearing orange vests. They appeared to have been gathered around a digger and I had a slight panic attack, thinking they were prison guards, before sense prevailed and I realised they were

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LOCAL computing, mechanics, gardening and all sorts of vocational courses provided for inmates.

In spite of the progressive efforts of Director Nawarat Tanasrisutarat, conditions were dire as she told Citylife, “...one hundred year old buildings were not meant to house that many people.” In 2013 the women were moved to the prison opposite the Provincial Hall to replace the men who were moved even further out of the city to a new facility in Mae Taeng.

When word got out that the prison was going to be moved, many people in the surrounding community wanted the area put to good use.

Meetings were held and proposals were made to develop the land into a museum, a cultural centre, a park, a shopping centre, or a Lanna heritage site. Many old buildings had recently been repurposed in the area including the old Provincial Hall which is now the City Arts and Culture Centre and the old court house which is the Lanna Folklife Museum and it appeared as though the prison would follow a similar path.

By late 2013 a competition was held to decide its future — with strict terms of reference to follow, especially should the 13th century Lanna palace be excavated. In the meantime Muay Cola, Temmasuk and their crew moved in, spraying the grim walls with vibrant colours and cryptic messages.

By July 2014 a committee of judges including those from the municipality, university and the Lanna Association of Architects, had chosen a winning design, proposed by Assistant Professor Kawin Wongwigkarn submitted on behalf of the intriguingly named Destroy Dirty Things Co., Ltd. The design is stunning. The proposed plaza will become a large green space destined to be a cultural landmark for years to come. the prison walls. Asking, “There are so many plazas, why do we need another?” he went on to say, “Chiang Mai doesn’t have a recognised art museum dedicated to local artists. Maybe a combination of the two can be reached, but if the plaza is built, the story ends.”

Though my heart went out to Muay Cola, I realised that it was time to find out some facts about the future of this space, so I headed to city hall where we met a harried official who promised to send us plans for the proposed plaza.

Back at the office, plan downloaded, we were blown away. This isn’t to be some ugly urban cement plaza, but a beautifully designed space which would turn the 17 rai of land into a green oasis in the heart of the city; a public park, a museum, a community centre and a tourist attraction. The designs showed plenty of trees, lawns, playgrounds, salas, park benches, and as I clicked through the slides I saw computerised renderings of two elevated corners of the plaza that looked like wing tips, rising up from the earth, which offered access to an underground tunnel. The only thing that was puzzling was the old Thai style building that was shown to be buried deep underground. No one here at Citylife could figure what this was. Luckily, a few days later my partner in crime Patty

and I were able to finally meet with the man who gave us the presentation, Policy and Plan Analyst of the Office of Strategy Management Charoon Ponghan.

My first question was to ask about the underground building. Charoon told us that according to a 1894 map which based its speculation on old ruins and manuscripts, this was supposedly the site of a royal palace of the Lanna kings before it was moved to where Yupparaj School is today. However, and even more excitedly, the Fine Arts Department and local historians believe the palace was built atop the site of the city’s first palace, that of King Mengrai himself, founder of Chiang Mai 720 years ago.

According to a booklet given by the municipality, King Intawaroros Suriyawong the 8th ruler of Chiang Mai, commissioned the prison to be built around 1901 (the exact date is still a contentious issues amongst scholars). Initially housing men, the prison soon accepted both sexes, though when the new men’s prison was finally completed opposite Provincial Hall in 2000, this became exclusively a women’s prison. Courtesy of an article in Citylife back in 2003, we know that around 2,300 women were housed here for a decade, and that it was considered one of the more progressive prisons in Thailand, with in house massage, sewing,

With the new plans in hand, I decided to venture back to the prison to see for myself how it will one day look. I was a bit shocked to see “No Trespassing” and “No Entry” signs plastered everywhere and was glad that we’d managed to get our photos done before it was illegal to enter. But being nosy, I grabbed Patty and pushed the door open and entered anyway. Breaking into the prison was certainly thrilling. As we stood in a cell on the second floor overlooking the courtyard, Patty became spooked, claiming to have heard sounds of chains and clanging metal. I scoffed at her paranoia, though scurried out after her when she decided it was time to leave. We headed to the steel door and were shocked to have found it locked. From the inside. With no one else around. We were imprisoned! At this point panic was settling in, along with the night, and we rushed around the deserted compound looking for a way out. Thankfully on the other end of the compound we saw, and managed to squeeze through, a flap of corrugated iron currently patching a hole in the prison’s wall.

As we popped out on the other side, catching our breath, a voice shouted “Taxi?”

“You really shouldn’t be in there,” our songtaew driver chastised us as we headed back to the office. “Bad things happened in there.

People died from executions, their spirits are there.”

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LOCAL

Peeling the layers at new park Definitely unsettled, Patty more so than me, we made our way back to the office and recounted our story to the staff who were heading home for the day. It turns out that they all seemed to have stories of friends who had volunteered at the prison, or graffiti artists who broke in at night, who had recounted tales of spooky spirits and odd sounds.

Leaving the netherworld behind, I next made an appointment with the winning architect, Asst. Prof. Kawin, who took me through his presentation slide by slide, explaining to me that the focus of his design was to honour the spirit of the kings past. The anchor of the design is the old Bhodi tree which currently stands just outside the northeast prison wall and which will have a tunnel leading to it, and what he calls the King’s Courtyard. The tunnel can be entered by the two raised corners of the plaza, peeled back from the earth to symbolise setting free the history and the power of the kings that had been trapped under the prison. The tunnel represents history and time, and from the top of the ramps there will be views of both Doi Sutep and Wat Chedi Luang, historical city landmarks.

“The key word here is earth,” said Asst. Prof.

Kawin. “My design concept is the peeling of the layers of the earth to reveal time and history.”

He went on to say that his design was all about community and creating a green space for the city. There will be an area for music festivals, a playground for children, another area where the community can come together and plant trees, an information centre to display any potential archeological finds, and a spirit house. He mentioned that the Fine Arts Department had already begun excavation and that shards as old as 14th century kalong ware had been found.

For those concerned that all trances of the century-old prison will be wiped clean, Asst.

Prof. Kawin says that two buildings will be kept to retain the integrity of the site, so that the history of the prison will be incorporated into that of the plaza. Sadly the wall, along with its four towers, will also be torn down, though Asst. Prof. Kawin says that the outline of his peeled design will follow that of the prison walls. Saiklang Jintasu, a historian at the Chiang Mai Fine Arts Department confirmed that six excavations digs had been completed this year though they were only for spot archeological checks as well as for geophysics research, not full site excavations.

“Legend and lore, as well as evidence from the 1894 map, suggests this was the location of Vieng Kaew palace of the Lanna royalty,” said Saiklang. “At this point there is nothing to corroborate this hypothesis as we have yet to conduct a full excavation. The demolition team has taken down all but six remaining buildings, all of which are believed to have historical significance as they are colonial in style and built during the reign of King Rama VI, though I am unsure how many will finally remain. So now they have to decide what to demolish and get it done before we can excavate, and then only after we have finished, can they even begin to think about building the plaza.”

“What I really would like to find,” Saiklang told me excitedly, “is the wall of the Lanna palace.

Also some ancient construction features because so little is known about the style and method of those days and a few ancient objects from the days of the king would be great!”

Possible Palace? to do. Destroy Dirty Things has set a tentative budget of around 120 million for the realisation of its designs but says that it could be years before it can get the project started. And Asst.

Prof. Kawin hasn’t forgotten our artist friends either, actually allocating two separate spaces within the design for expressions of street art.

So while the current works featured by graffiti artists will be demolished, they will be able to return one day to continue to contribute to our art scape.

What do we do until then?

Appreciate the works of art Muay Cola and his fellow street artists, understanding that, in the true Buddhist sense, nothing is permanent, and therein lies its beauty. Look forward to not only the finds the Fine Arts Department hopes to dig up from under the rubbles of the old prison, but how we as a community can enjoy this space for many generations to come.

As for me, by the time you read this, I will be back home in Indiana, regularly checking into Facebook to read about all the exciting things happening in Chiang Mai, and wishing I were back here.

So where does this rabbit hole leave us? At the moment, limbo. We have a lot of waiting

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CULTURE

A Brave New SOTUS:

Seniority: Order: Tradition: Unity: Spirit.

By Aydan Stuart and Chonticha Kuntanoy

Hazing in Thailand is institutional. Most university students will face hazing of some sort or another, from the benign to the deadly. It is a time honoured tradition for freshies at university to undergo weeks, even months, of intense hazing from their seniors. While there have been reports of hazing deaths and torture, on the most part it is an uncomfortable, time consuming, often painful experience which many students go through in the name of bonding with their faculty class mates.

This name, when mentioned, can evoke either a warm smile as memories of youth past is evoked, or total trauma recall. Here in Chiang Mai University, which will be our case study this month, SOTUS is officially banned, though the practice continues. The Engineering and Agriculture faculties in particular are well known for their brutal hazing rituals. “It’s no surprise, given that the first ever SOTUS event was at Kasetsart University, an agriculture based university, in the early sixties,” said Associate Dean for Student Development Affairs for the Faculty of Business Administration at Chiang Mai University, Dr. Kemakorn Chaiprasit, who is an anti-SOTUS activist. “It was imported from the Philippines by some exchange students as a means to control first year students and prevent fights with local technical college.”

At the time the popular military schools of Thailand supported the idea, and within a few years SOTUS spread across every university and vocational college in the country, finally becoming institutionalised as one of the unique aspects of Thai university life, believed to be character building and ensuring the continuation of a traditional hierarchal society. Respect your seniors, follow orders, don’t question…

It calmed the masses.

Over the last decade, the previously secretive SOTUS has been dragged squarely into the public domain. And most voices are crying foul.

“The world has changed,” said Dr. Kemakorn Chaiprasit. “In actual fact the Ministry of Education has already distanced itself from the tradition and is making efforts to end it, but unfortunately a SOTUS-free country is a long way off.”

This year Chiang Mai University came under fire when first year girls were beaten by their seniors during a trip to a dam in Nan Province, all in the name seniority and order. Just last month, a first year student from a Bangkok university almost drowned as he was forced to swim across a university campus pond. He was unconscious for three days while his family waited anxiously by his side. When he woke up he told them he was only doing what his seniors told him to do because that is what you have to do as a freshman.

Other cases reported over the last few years include dripping candle wax onto bare skin, forcing both male and female students to partake in sexually provocative actions against their will and being made to lie in the sun for hours on end with no water or sun protection.

A quick search revealed that over the last few years, five deaths have occurred as a direct result of hazing rituals, though the actual number is probably higher.

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CULTURE subjected to such repression and pressure to conform in the first few months at university.

Those great ideas soon escape them and they turn into another unquestioning drone.

“If you want new thoughts from the new generation, you can’t be forcing them to conform,” added Kornchit Phichai, the Student Affairs Officer in the Faculty of Business Administration who is working together with Dr. Kemakorn in this campaign to stop SOTUS. Ironically, it is thanks to the tradition of seniority and hierarchy that Dr. Kemakorn has been able to pull the plug on SOTUS in her faculty once and for all. “As the associate dean of the faculty, I can pull rank and the senior students have to obey me too,” she said as she went on to explain that she has cut the entire budget for SOTUS this year.

The university may say that they are antiSOTUS, but this is the first faculty to actually stop the tradition in its tracks, rather than just change its name.

S is for Seniority There have been ever-growing murmurings and rumblings throughout Thailand about SOTUS change. The media has led the charge, publishing one damning story after another.

Today’s students have come a long way from those of the sixties and they are complaining at the abuse. That, coupled with progressive seniors, parents and teachers who are beginning to speak out, SOTUS is losing its grasp on the new generation.

Universities are beginning to take a stand and saying, “No more SOTUS” though many students say that while the name may have changed to ‘new student ceremony’, in many cases, the traditions are the same.

“Seniority is a part of Thailand and always will be,” said Chirawath Phatsara, now a senior professor in the Agriculture Faculty of Chiang Mai University but once a SOTUS cheerleader with seven years’ experience under his belt.

“The world is changing and SOUTS is being criticised on all sides. People share videos on social media but forget about why we may be doing this to the students – it usually has a great lesson behind it.”

Chirawath is a big supporter of SOTUS, believing that the hazing rituals build life experience.

“I think back to my time as a freshie every time

I reach a hurdle in my life, and realise that if I could endure that, I can endure anything and I fight on.”

When asked about the changing opinion towards SOTUS by professors and students alike, he was surprised, but quickly accepted that hazing has to probably change to accommodate the newer generation of students, but disagreed with the growing campaigns to stop it entirely.

O is for Order “We don’t force the freshies to do anything they don’t want to,” said 22-year-old Kit Channarong, current fourth year Mechanical Engineering Student at CMU and the man in charge of all the SOTUS rituals in his faculty for the last two years. Chirawath agrees that students who don’t participate in SOTUS can often be ostracised, but says that there are new systems in place to accommodate those who don’t want to get involved with SOTUS activities.

“First year students will very rarely fight back,” said Dr. Kemakorn on peer pressure. “Sure they may not ‘force you’ but you are told to follow orders. If you don’t you will become the black sheep of the flock and have no friends.”

Imagine a fresh young student filled with bright ideas, confidence and courage, suddenly

The Faculty of Business Administration has an annual budget of 150,000 baht for hazing alone, with money going towards materials and sustenance at waak events. Nightly waak events throughout the first term of university are the norm. These ‘cheering’ sessions where students are taught songs and accompanying claps and movements, are interspersed by seniors who will interrupt and waak (onomatopoeia for scream and shout) at those not in formation or failing to follow. These hours’ long sessions can last for up to six hours, with seniors screaming at petrified freshies. This year, for the first time, the money has been put aside to fund what they are now describing as ‘professional social activities’ for first year students. This time it is not just a name change.

Quite simply, hazing rituals are strictly prohibited and seniors now have to come up with or get involved in socially conscious activities and projects, working together with the first years rather than assuming authority.

“This year we had to guide all the seniors as it is totally new territory for them,” explained Kornchit. “Strangely enough, despite having gone through SOTUS themselves, the seniors were still keen to ‘get their own back’ by taking it out on the new students. We had to work really hard to convince them otherwise.”

“We are a socially conscious faculty, and as a result our main project this year will be the cleaning of the Mae Kha Canal,” Kornchit explained of the faculty’s intention to turn the students’ initiations into something constructive.

This year they will clean a stretch of the filthy canal by clearing it banks, dredging rubbish, laying grass and creating a better environment for the many communities who rely on it. “Given the recent passing of His Majesty the King, we have decided to plant just white flowers this year in tribute to him,” Kornchit added.

In addition to the canal clean-up project, the faculty is also using its budget to offer tiny loans to students to open small businesses - baking

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CULTURE

Student of Electrical Power Major, Information Science Major and Electronic Communications Major of Faculty of Industrial Education cleaned water in the Chiang Mai moat.

Students clean the Mae Kha Canal for the first time this year cookies, selling munchies and encouraging them to find innovative ways to advertise. Any profits made must be returned to the faculty and will be saved for the next year’s activities. “Who knows, maybe one day our freshie activities could fund themselves — if that happens I bet the university management will be keen to force all other faculties to follow suit!”

caused the damage in the first place. “One of my best friends had a heart attack as a result of a hazing ritual, it was too late to help them.”

Kornchit added that one of his friends also died after he was forced to drink so much alcohol he went into shock.

Cutting back to the students and the benefit of working together, seniors and freshies, Kornchit added, “respect must be earned, and once you are respected then your orders will be followed. If you force the freshies to do things that are inappropriate, why should they respect you?” Dr. Kemakorn butts in by saying “…because its tradition.”

“Even though we are only a few month into this first new school year with no (official) SOTUS, a few other faculties at the university are expressing interest in following suit,” Dr. Kemakorn happily. “I genuinely think it is only a matter of time before universities across Thailand will start doing similar things, but for now I think we are the first to dare make such a step.”

T is for Tradition

“Personal development and encouragement to think big has been lost over the decades,” she added. “At the very least I want to stop hazing and encourage seniors and freshies to work together, and treat each other as equals.”

“SOTUS is a great Thai tradition, we sing our faculty anthem together, we instil a sense of spirit and confidence into the first year students and we teach them how to suffer so that in the future they can cope with the real world,” expressed Chirawath with a beaming smile, pausing a moment to reminisce of his time as a first year student. “Okay I can admit, SOTUS is not the best in its current form, but it’s not the worst either.” As a SOTUS leader turned professor, he is using his adult life experience along with his support of the system to try and reshape the SOTUS landscape to deal with what he describes as the ‘hypersensitivity’ of the younger generation.

“I have made sure that now, if any student is not happy with what is going on or becomes injured or sick because of SOTUS, their peers must look after them and make sure they are safe and happy. If someone is injured they are taken straight to the hospital, and if someone doesn’t want to get involved then their peers work as therapists and help resolve the bad feelings.”

“I grew up with SOTUS,” said Dr. Kemakorn as she rolled her eyes at the idea that emotionally or physically affected students can have their problems fixed by the very same peers who

U is for Unity

Assistant Professor Wasan Jompakdee of the Department of Mechanical Engineering and another anti-SOTUS activist poopoos the idea that SOTUS imbues unity amongst students.

“Crises have happened. There have been arguments and fights not just between years of students, but those from different faculties.

Students are trained through hazing to put their class and faculty above all else. This separates; not joins. It promotes importance of faculty above all else.”

S is for Spirit “I have been a lecturer at the university for 40 years,” continued Asst. Prof. Wasan. “If you have a soul of a teacher then your purpose in life is to give good advice to your students. I have experienced SOTUS from day one and even then, I worried that we were simply repeating our mistakes. You need to constantly analyse what you are doing as a teacher and re-evaluate yourself. I did that with SOTUS and came to the realisation many years ago that there is no logic, no thought, no understanding,

no depth, no clarity. SOTUS is simply doing what has always been done without reason or conscious thought. It is also a system based on emotion rather than reason. I believe that we must try to work to find understanding amongst all involved, from the dean of each faculty to students, parents and even alumni.”

It must not be forgotten that in Thailand adulthood officially begins at 20, so first year students at the tender age of 18 are often treated like children, taught to obey follow. SOTUS is the perfect mould for a society that doesn’t question the rules. Of course it takes more than just SOTUS to stop critical thought, but SOTUS comes at a crucial time of life; just at the point when you dare to ask questions, just at the point you have a chance to have a voice in what should be a secure environment for expression. Individuality is ruthlessly suppressed in the name of unity.

“The process of change is not easy, and the blood of SOTUS runs through almost every teacher, senior and professor. It’s just whether they choose to follow the masses or instigate change,” Dr. Kemakorn concluded, quietly confident the paradigm has been shifted.

Perhaps a happy medium can be found. Keep the name but change the traditions — as opposed to changing the name but keeping the traditions. Asst. Prof. Wasan’s suggests a simple modern interpretation that is upheld across the board and which could be it all it takes to redefine SOTUS and put an end to senseless hazing.

Seniority: In the Thai and Asian sense of respecting one another, especially those older and with more experience.

Order: To have discipline within one’s own life, sage advice handed down by the Buddha.

Tradition: The respect of culture and tradition.

But only those proven to be imbued with value and goodness, passed down through generations.

Unity: The ability to work alongside peers as well as with strangers, an important life skill.

Spirit: The development of one’s own spirit can only lead to compassion, service and the spirit of communal good.

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Citylife SOCIETY

Are YOU a Road Rager?

Text by Colin Hinshelwood and Illustrated by Yutthaphong Kaewsuk

How much does it take to send you into a fit when someone in front of you is swerving between lanes or a nudging their way into your path? Do you blast your horn? Flash a high beam at the lane trespasser? Do you roll down your window and scream obscenities?

I find myself cursing and honking and refusing to give way all the time. I am petty in my pursuit of a place ahead of you in the queue, and unforgiving of even the slightest driving faux pas. But then I pull up beside the offending motorist and see it is a meek old man or a nervous mother trying to steer while controlling her children, and I realise what a d&*k I’m being. Then when my own three-year-old son starts imitating me:

“C’mon man! What the hell are you doing?” I reluctantly resign myself to mending my ways.

You see, road rage is a living phenomenon. It is a virus that is dormant within every society, but when it finally becomes air-borne it metamorphoses into a monster and reproduces exponentially. That’s what my former student, a young Spanish sociology major, told me many years ago when he explained the topic of his thesis: The phenomenon of road rage. He explained that the behaviour of a commuting society exists peacefully up to a point – until one man starts shouting at another; he in turns shouts at a woman; she shouts at someone else; and so on.

It was a philosophy I could instantly relate to. I was on my way back to Scotland, and had flown into London where I’d borrowed a friend’s car to drive north. It had been a few years since I had driven back home and I was a wee bit wobbly. The first roundabout I came to, I got nervous and tried to quickly zip in and out without getting entwined with other vehicles.

Of course I cut someone off and he gave me a blast on the horn. Then the guy pulled up alongside me, zapped down his window, and as I veered off the junction, he vented his wrath...“W*$ker!”

Welcome to Britain, I thought. But within a few minutes behind the wheel, I was doing exactly

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Citylife

the same: swearing, honking, chastising. I had been in the country less than two days and already I had caught the road rage virus.

“They need to know that what they're doing is dangerous and stupid, and you should show them. In fact, you should punish them,” writes Jonathan Strickland in his paper, How Road Rage Works.

Another researcher, psychologist Dr Steven Albrecht, advises road ragers to…well, jai yen yen; take a Buddhist approach to the problem. In his thesis, The Psychology of Road Rage, he suggests we contemplate the dilemma thus: “What would the Dalai Lama do? Go forth down the road and be yourself, with compassion towards others.

Stop caring about your ‘space’ and realise that road rage is ridiculous, life-threatening, and not something you have to participate in, ever.”

Chiang Mai & Noise Pollution Anyone who has ever spent a night in a hotel in downtown Delhi, Hanoi or Jakarta will know what it’s like to be awoken at dawn by the delightful cacophony of car horns blaring. Your eyes are still closed and the alarm clock hasn’t even rung, but already you are cocooned in a repetitive drone of traffic — surround sound, like tinnitus, or a nest of wasps buzzing in your head.

That’s why we are very lucky to live in a friendly small city which does not have a culture of honking horns, where drivers are generally patient and courteous, and where road rage is still uncommon.

But that tranquility is in danger of disappearing.

Traffic has doubled in the last five years — many of those new drivers are expats, Bangkokians and Chinese. And for all the complaining that farang like to do about traffic, it is we who are among the most aggressive and impatient drivers on the roads of this city.

Many expats I spoke to have lived here 20 or 30 years and had never seen a single case of road rage. Others view the increase in traffic as an infinite frustration, while many Western males in particular tend to think of themselves as role models of the road.

Chiang Mai is a passive city in terms of commuter frenzy. Anyone from Italy or Greece, for example,

will attest to the fact that drivers will throw on the handbrake and hop out the car for a quick rant and rave as frequently as they stop for an espresso. Brits too, know full well that driving fury is endemic. And as for the USA, let’s not even get started.

Dangerous and even deadly incidents are on the increase; not just accidents, but fights — road rage. All too often Westerners are involved, and they seldom seem to win.

In 2010, Thomas Schuller, a 43-year-old German, was shot dead in San Sai after the briefest of confrontations with another driver. According to witnesses at the scene, the German man had been weaving through traffic on his motorcycle, prompting driver Pricha Rattanahongthong to honk at him. Schuller reportedly flipped the guy a middle finger, and when they pulled up at a traffic light, Pricha got out his car, knocked the German off his motorcycle and shot him twice in the back. He then got back in his vehicle and drove away.

"unforgiving of even the slightest driving faux pas" American teacher Mark de la Fleur had a similar experience in May last year, but survived to tell the tale.

“I was on my motorbike just north of Chang Phuak on the road to Mae Rim when a guy came up from behind me — very fast — driving aggressively and flashing his lights. Naturally, I slowed down (perhaps a hint of passive aggressiveness on my part) and it sent him over the edge. We ended up at a red light. He rolled his window down and I rolled mine down. It was a 65-to70-year-old man with two elementary-age children in uniform in the back.

“He saw I was a farang and started shouting ‘Go home! Go home!’ So I responded: ‘YOU go home.’ At that moment, in front of the two children, he reached into the door and pulled out a gun, and began to turn the gun towards me and my wife. The second I saw the gun, I reacted and shot through the red light. He shot

SOCIETY

through as well, and in no time, we were flying down the middle of the road, him on my tail waving the gun.”

While these particular incidents could be put down to machismo, they are certainly not isolated or atypical of situations many of us have faced in Chiang Mai traffic. And that is a shame, because this city was never like that before.

“Nowadays, everyone is in a hurry,” explained Pol.Capt. Weeraya Wongkaaew of Chiang Mai traffic police. “Ten years ago, drivers were calmer, more patient.”

He also puts the problem down to the expanding number of cars on the road. Chiang Mai Province now has 2.5 million registered vehicles; that’s up from 2 million the year before. “But road and highway construction only increases by 10% a year,” he said.

On the other hand, Lt.Col. Naratphong Udomsri of Chiang Mai’s Provincial Police Department says he doesn’t believe road rage is a big issue when weighed against the 500 accidents and 50 deaths on the roads of Chiang Mai every month. “Road rage is not a problem,” he told me. “Because people here are jai dee.”

Neither police chief thought that farang drivers are particularly problematic or bad-tempered.

All the tuk-tuk and red cab drivers I spoke to agreed, though some pointed to farang and Chinese not knowing the traffic laws in this city.

None would admit to any cases of road rage under their watch.

“It has never been a problem in my 24 years as a tuk-tuk driver,” says Deng, 52. “But then again,” he laughs, “I am a particularly patient driver.”

So we should count our lucky stars that we live in a city that is generally peaceful, and we each (myself included) must do what we can to keep the lid on the Pandora’s Box that is road rage.

Chiang Mai remains a place where you can drive around all day and not hear a single beep on a horn. In this day and age, that is quite remarkable. It is therefore down to each of us — especially Westerners and those from a different driving culture — to help keep the city serene.

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Citylife READER

This is an open forum for you to express your opinions. write to: editor@chiangmaicitylife.com Subject: Your Say. Letters can be on any topic but priority will be given to those under 200 words. Letters may be edited for clarity or conciseness.

Immigration Woes

Congratulations on an excellent October issue.

You've walked a very fine line with your article "Guardians at the Gate", especially in light of what happened after your previous interview of a big cheese at Chiang Mai Immigration. I think this issue will be very popular with the Chiang Mai retired expats.

Best regards, Nancy Lindley Apologies for sending you an email on your day off but I am away for a few days. I was wondering if you had any feedback from your Immigration interview?

Since it was published there is a new directive that foreigners will be fined if they don't file yet another form stating where they have been or have returned to recently. It’s on the CM TV forum. It’s called a TM 30.

So although I have a current retirement visa extension , Thai driving Licence, yellow book and pink ID card all linked to my 9 year continuous address, and my 30 + 90 day reports, I am still in violation as I did not submit a TM 30 form because I spent two nights in Petchabun at my wife’s parents farm. The fine is 1,600 baht.

There appears to be, despite our, your, and many others efforts, to bring some common sense into the situation there is no let up to make our lives so uncomfortable. Where are the faceless men/women of the consulates that are watching this unfold?

It’s really gone beyond being a dysfunctional government department and it’s totally vindictive.

Mike Parker

Happy Intern

Hope everything is going well back in Chiang Mai and for the upcoming issue! I wanted to reach out thank you, Ayden and Pam for an amazing summer. For my first time being out of the US, let alone by myself, you made me feel comfortable at Citylife, while still encouraging and pushing me to see what I could find out on the streets. Travelling Thailand and writing about my experiences is something I will treasure

for my entire life; this summer really meant a lot. Thank you so much again and I hope that our paths cross at some point in the future. I hope you all the best!

Christian Cerri

His Majesty’s Death

My name is Kathy Stulgis, and I am writing to you to express my disappointment of the reaction of many foreigners at the death of the King.

Four years ago, I came to Thailand as a tourist and fell head over heels in love with the country.

Since then I have been trying to teach myself to speak Thai and have returned every year since to volunteer at a dog rescue and help to teach English at an elephant camp. I have made many Thai and Shan friends and try to learn and understand the culture. I try to never stop asking questions.

His Majesty the King was an icon to the country.

I really believe that he made great contributions to the country.

I am shocked and disappointed by the comments of foreigners complaining that the Night Bazar and Sunday Walking Street will be closed. This is a horribly sad time for the country and the Thai people are in pain. That foreigners can complain because their play activities are being cancelled is beyond belief. They use the excuse that the Thai people will suffer economically because of the closure. If that is the case, why do the foreigners try to pay the cheapest price possible for goods. I am sorry to say but I think the real reason is that they are being inconvenienced.

I apologise for my rant, but I have been so angry I just had to express my feelings.

Please accept my condolences on the loss of His Majesty the King Sincerely, Kathy Stulgis

D’Cup Runneth Over

On behalf of D’CUP ice-cream, we would to thank you for choosing our product to be on the cover and be a part of the magazine. We really appreciated your kind and support of young entrepreneurs like us. After the issue was published, we received very good feedback from our old customers and many new people who are interested in our khao soy ice cream.

Moreover, we printed the cover and put it on the shop’s wall in honour of our brand!

Best regards, D Cup Ice Cream Team and Staff

Keep Close Tabs

I just read your Sept. editorial. Again you're championing a noble cause, preserving Chiang Mai's green places. Good work, thanks. The green spots are disappearing too quickly.

When I lived in Florida, I developed real estate projects, so I am familiar with the building permitting process.

In Florida, if there is much public opposition to a building project, the developer will acquiesce and back away. That doesn't mean that he has abandoned the project. When things quiet down he will apply again.

I suggest that you form a committee to monitor your properties of interest. Hopefully some of the committee members will work in the depts. that issue building permits. Permit applications should be public information.

I live next door to a beautiful green spot called Ladda Land. I'm sure that you are familiar with it. It is worth preserving. I hear from very good sources that the man who owns Chiang Beer bought the property, about 3 years ago. He now has a crew living there that maintain the property. He may already plan to preserve Ladda Land, but it might be a good idea to contact him about his intentions. If he already plans to preserve it, you could use him as a role model. If he plans to build on it, you could try to convince him to preserve it. I don't think that money would be of consequence to him.

Good luck.

Anon

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Natural textiles for Eco lifestyle

Check our Opening house, activities & workshop schedules at www.studio-naenna.com

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Design Ideas Chatbongkoch ‘Yok’ Khemacheewakul, M.D. 34 years old Owner of Chat-Peera Clinic a. A peacock hand crafted pewter by Loyfar Artisan Pewter This peacock hand crafted pewter is made to the highest quality and is perfect for the home.

Price: 5,800 baht Tel. 089 755 0997 Facebook: Loyfarpewterfanpage b. Cat pillow by Little Idea This design was made by somebody from Chiang Mai, so it is close to my heart. I got it to be my lucky cat.

Price: Free for Chat-Peera Clinic’s customer Tel. 099 241 6551 c. Bag by Ket-tha-wha by Niyi It’s made from good local fabric and the design is unique and attractive.

Price: 3,500 baht Tel. 085 029 2244

b

c

d d. Outdoor table and chairs by Bed Room Made from Teak wood, this table and chair set is great for the garden!

Price: 6,000 baht Tel. 091 743 3582

a

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Citylife FREETIME

by Aydan Stuart

The Rube Band – Fin feat. Mildvocalist

Imperial Mae Ping Imperial Mae Ping is now introducing the brand new Garden Bar, packed with delicious food, amazing drinks, live music and a great atmosphere.

Only opening their doors this month, The Garden Bar is serving locals and visitors of Chiang Mai alike with a range of great food on their newly revised menu that covers both east and west with a wide selection of Thai and International dishes, along with a specials menu that changes every month.

Sip on a ice cold beverage or take photos of your beautifully crafted cocktail as you sit back after work and enjoy the cool breeze and blow those daytime office cobwebs away. The live music every night is exciting and interesting, and accompanies you to a place of relaxation and enjoyment with friends.

Open from 5pm to midnight, it is the perfect place to go to begin your night. Dinner, drinks, friends, music. Escape the heat of the city and relax on down at the Imperial Mae Ping’s brand new The Garden Bar. Open 5pm - Midnight Imperial Mae Ping Hotel, 153 Sridonchai Road, Chang Klan 053 283 900

Every now and again I get a handful of promotional CDs that bands from all over the country send to various publications, Citylife being one of them. I usually try to use this space in Citylife to talk about new music and live events in Chiang Mai, but as the nation mourns the loss of His Majesty the King, parties and events have all but vanished, an important part of the mourning process. Although it has left me with an empty space to fill this month, I quickly realised that it was perfect opportunity to dig through the stacks of CDs Citylife gave me and see if any of these singles were worth covering.

Enter the Rube Band. Formed back in 2011, they have been playing together for some time now and have recently released a new song on Spicy Disc records. The song features a Thai singer/rapper by the name of Mildvocalist and the collaboration between the two produced a simple but enjoyable track titled Fin. The song begins with a very traditional sounding Thai vocal that is slowly joined by strings that give the intro a very warm sound. After a quick break the track changes into a steady beat with the Thai hip-hop vocals.

Sounding very much like R&B, the rap adds a nice modern flavor to the song. The chorus comes in with the lead female vocalist now singing a much more modern style, a stark contrast from the more traditional intro which I think it’s good to note her range of styles is impressive.

It is always refreshing to hear Thai bands innovate and think outside the box. Using a more traditional sound for the intro draws from the deep musical tradition that exist in this country. In a world where all too often musicians look to make a quick dollar and remake and repackage songs they’ve heard before, it’s encouraging to hear artist draw from their roots and use it to their advantage to make a truly original track.

The Rube Band can be found on Facebook and their music is available for purchase on iTunes, KKBOX, and LINE Music.

Facebook: therubeband

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Citylife READER

The Adventures of Tom

by Tom Clegg

Some silliness.

The other day, as I reclined in a bamboo hut contemplating the bathers frolicking in the waters of Huay Tung Tao, the sun casting its dying rays across Doi Suthep and a young girl trying to sell me a Doraemon toy, I fell into conversation with a young couple visiting Chiang Mai for their holidays. Having exhausted curious topics like the state of world politics and why Thai tea comes in a bag, something else struck each of us as being a little odd. We had ice cubes in our beer. For the couple, fresh off the ‘plane from the UK, it was odd to be served a glass of amber lager with ice cubes floating in it. This would be an unacceptable state of affairs in any British bar. For me the ice situation was strange because I cannot now imagine enjoying a glass of golden goodness without a couple of frozen cubes bobbing up and down in it. This got me thinking. If I now treat beer in such a way completely foreign to how I was bought up to treat beer, are there other conventions or habits we would never have dreamed of indulging in at home that one cannot help acquiring after living for a few years in this land that smiles?

An obvious one is the bum-gun. To say that the arse-hose revolutionised my existence would of course be a silly exaggeration, but it has certainly improved the whole bathroom experience tremendously. Like the egregious idea of beer without ice, I could never now contemplate reverting to a humble sheet of toilet paper. I would also miss the entertainment. Who needs a newspaper to read in the privy when one can get on with washing one’s feet, or indulging in the fantasy of being James

Bond with a water-firing Walther PPK. Nope, it will come as little surprise to anyone that the butt-spray, the king of bathroom hygiene, often tops the list of things most missed when people move back home.

Next up has to be the motorbike. Before Thailand, the motorcycle, in my mind, was simply a rocket on two wheels mentally baffled people climbed onto before becoming organ donors.

Now it is almost impossible to imagine life without one. This is not to say that the above description doesn’t still hold up, but that I can no longer imagine doing something crazy like walking to the 7-eleven at the end of the road. That would be madness when there is a perfectly good rocket on two wheels parked outside that will save me costly wear and tear on my flip-flops.

Flip-flops, there’s another one. The wearing of a pair of these flexible sandals in somewhere like the UK would be unthinkable. Not just because of the abysmal climate, but because they are often regarded as one of the worst sorts of sartorial crime. An opinion I would have heartily agreed with a decade ago, but now it is simply unimaginable that I would exchange my rubber thongs for a pair of shoes. And socks are totally out of the question. Granted, a pair of flip-flops is unlikely to last as long as a pair of sensible brogues, but the price tag, and the lack of all that shoe-lace nonsense, does tend to put a smile on one’s face.

And that’s another one — smiling. The Land of Smiles is a cliché for the very good reason that everybody does it. As a Brit I was taught from a very early age that smiling at a stranger was something only a deranged person would ever contemplate. Try smiling at the person sitting opposite you on the London Underground, for instance, and seeing how long it takes for two burly men in white uniforms to appear with a large net and a straightjacket. The opposite is true here, and there is nothing more likely to give your day a cheery boost than catching the eye of somebody going about their business and exchanging a grin.

At a time when there is a great deal to feel bleak about in the world; where perspectives seem to be shrinking and attitudes are struggling to remain positive, I thank goodness I have been treated to my time in Chiang Mai. It is impossible to have lived here and not had one’s worldview altered for the better even if the broadening of one’s philosophy is a jet of water up the bum or the realisation that life is that bit better without the hassle of socks.

Perhaps you too have had an experience in Chiang Mai that has skewed the way in which you approach life. If so why not click ‘like’ and ‘subscribe’ at the bottom of the page and tell us about it in the comments section. Or send a Twit on Grinder. Or snap some chat on Ooops.

Or do that hashtag thing. Or completely forget about it all, go and have a beer — with ice in it — and swap a smile with a real person.

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Citylife FREETIME

Want to be a Writer?

Join one of the many support groups in our city

by Emily Crosby

Anyone who has spent time in Chiang Mai knows that at the heart of the city is a pulsing art scene. Live music, exhibitions, film festivals — it would seem there’s something to satisfy any artistic interest. So what’s on offer for those who like create with words?

Does Chiang Mai have a thriving poetry scene? I decided to find out.

Writers Without Borders My first stop is a writing group named Writers Without Borders, who meet on a weekly basis to share works in progress and give constructive feedback. The group mainly consists of expats living in Chiang Mai, though everyone is welcome. Residents and those just passing through can attend as frequently as they wish — there are no membership rules. You also don’t have to read your own work if you don’t want to.

“I’m so glad we have this writing club” says British expat Jim King, “somewhere we can come and turn our phones off.”

As I take a seat around the table, I quickly realise I’m surrounded by people with whom

I share a common interest with. This common interest is a passion for writing.

just have the opportunity to socialise with likeminded people.

Providing a space to share works with one another, receive critique and talk about literature, writers from all backgrounds with varied experience can get involved. Whether you’re published or just write for fun, all are accepted and embraced. If you’re looking for some direct and honest (but overall positive) feedback on your work, I think it’d be really worthwhile to go along to a meeting. Yes, it can be nervewracking for first timers to put themselves out there, but it really is a rewarding and valuable experience for anyone who wants to improve their work, find their creative voice or simply

However, the discussion isn’t limited to writing.

Other topics may be discussed such as editing, marketing, choosing an agent. There was even a debate about modern technology which produced some very poignant words that I’m sure will stay with me. “Don’t dumb down language and experiences. We are losing our vocabulary,” says Jim King, and I can’t help but agree.

Writers Without Borders meet every Thursday, 7pm at Why Not Italian Restaurant Email: lifewb@gmail.com www.wordpowr.com

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Citylife FREETIME

Magic Theatre Poetry Reading Next on my quest to uncover Chiang Mai’s writing talent is an open mic night for Magic Theatre Poetry Reading, a group of poets who meet on a regular basis to take centre stage and read out their work. “We are here tonight to celebrate poetry in any form,” says host Ina Jain, as I find myself on the terrace of Be Beez Café and Guest House, quite relaxed on a bamboo and wicker sun lounger. The glow of fairy lights and occasional clink of wind chimes creates a poetic and very fitting atmosphere.

The two feature poets of the evening, Yvonx Slater and Feral Willcox, kick things off before the open mic section of the night. Yvonx, from England, reads several original poems, the first being about herself and her sister picking daffodils as children. But perhaps the most impactful moment of her set is during a poem about the death of her father. “You’ll have to excuse me if I get emotional,” she says apologetically, “I loved him a lot and it was a complex relationship”.

As she goes on to detail a painful experience that a lot of us can relate to, it’s clear that both poet and audience are connecting through her words. One woman even has to leave the room for a few minutes. And this is what I love about poetry — this single moment, for me, defines what poetry is all about. The ability to create images and stir feelings with only words.

Another memorable piece is a poem read out in Finish by Leif Jansson, despite the majority of the audience not knowing a single word of the language. This is when I realise that poetry has no language barrier. The emotion he wanted to convey is evident by the way he pronounces and emphasises words, and we understand.

Talking to host Ina Jain about how this group came to be in existence, she explains that she was initially invited to join Magic Poetry Theatre

by a friend from Canada, and eventually began to co-host before taking over when he left Chiang Mai. “I liked the space of people sharing what they do and just getting to talk about that,” she tells me, and it’s obvious that this is something she really cares about.

The Magic Theatre Poetry Reading host open mic nights monthly.

Facebook: Magic Theatre Poetry Reading

Chiang Mai Writers’ Workshop My final experience of the creative writing scene in Chiang Mai was at a writing workshop, held at Rustic and Blue. Hosted by personal developer and published author Ellen Bard these regular workshops tackle a different issue each time, and provide a space to talk about any writing-related problems people are having.

This particular workshop is aimed at finishing projects and breaking down those barriers that prevent productivity, from hectic work schedules to good old fashioned procrastination.

As more and more people pull up chairs, notepads and pens at the ready, it’s refreshing to see so many people getting involved. Ellen begins the workshop by saying that the meeting “should be chill, just talking about writing”.

And that’s precisely what it is. As everyone sips on a smoothie or an iced latte, it’s very much a relaxed and open environment. After introductions, I soon discover that there are

a mix of people from all over the globe, with varying experience who dabble in different genres of writing.

It seems that each person has their own problems with, as Ellen puts it, “sitting their ass down to write”. From managing too many projects at once to aiming for unrealistic perfectionism, anyone who’s ever tried to write anything will know the pain of staring at a blank page displayed upon a glaring laptop screen. This workshop aims to combat those problems and optimise your productivity as a writer. Just talking about it with people who can relate really helps — sort of like a writer’s therapy. But there are plenty of tips and advice to absorb as well as book recommendations and useful websites. Even those who are experienced writers have these problems, such as Laura Dodge, an author from New York who has had seven novels published but still uses a sticker chart for motivation.

CM Writers’ Workshops are held every two weeks. To keep up to date on workshops as well as other events, join the Facebook group Chiang Mai Writers.

Creative Writing Chiang Mai (Ed. We discovered one more group after Emily went home to the UK.) Started a year ago, this group meets once a week, on Tuesdays at 7pm at Meeting Room Art Café and they provide a place for people to come together and write. Everyone just comes to create, so no need to share.

The facilitators take turns on subjects such as poetry, non-fiction, memoirs, fiction and even opinion and editorials.

Facebook: Creative Writing Chiang Mai

After attending three quite different types of event, I’ve found that there are a lot of enthusiastic and dedicated writers in Chiang Mai, and various types of meetups suited for different needs. If you want constructive critique on your work, a place to celebrate and perform poetry or just some helpful advice, Chiang Mai has something to offer any writer. I found that with each group there was a lot of support, passion and creativity among its members, and although each was different, they are all most definitely fun.

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Black Food Thailand is in mourning, as are we. So instead of our usual colourful City 7 page, we thought we would take a look at some of the colour-appropriate dishes to be found in the city.

1

2

3

4

5 1. Pakaslip Made to order artistic concept food is the name of the game here, including this black lod chong dessert, a combination of black sweet rice noodles served with aromatic burnt coconut, sugar cane and coconut milk.

Open 7.30am – 3pm. (Closed Tuesdays) 599/32 Lanna Village, Pa Daed 081 429 4858 Facebook: ปากะศิลป

2. Toast-it Everybody loves a bit of toast, and milky toasty bars are all the range even after all these years.

Toast-It goes even further and gives us a striking black toast topped with a range of savoury toppings! Scrumptious.

Open 10am – 10pm (Closed Mondays) Charoenmuang Road 098 249 1656 Facebook: toastitchiangmai

3. Crepe Nhong Nhue A student favourite, this pitch black charcoal crepe comes stuffed with goodies – banana, Nutella, chilli paste, golden threads, ham and sausage, eggs, etc. and more.

Open 10am - 7pm closed Saturdays Branches Chang Khian road, opposite Tesco Lotus Express, Jet Yod Rajamangala University of Technology Lanna Facebook เครปนองเหนือ เจ็ดยอด เชียงใหม 083 8988446, 090 9321835

4. Kyoto Soft This charcoal ice cream is best enjoyed twirled with a bright green matacha ice cream to create this striking green-black soft treat that is just melt in the mouth, quite literally.

Open daily Malin Plaza, Huay Kaew Road Facebook: Kyotosoft 086 421 5505

5. Vikings Jungle This Gangster Burger is as black as it gets, black buns packed with piles of meat, bacon, salad, sauce…yum.

Open 11am – 9.30pm Facebook:Vikingsjungle 094 939 9929

6. Godam Korean Restaurant Celebrate Korea’s Black Day everyday with the jajangmyun noodles, served in a rich black sauce and basking in traditional Korean flavours.

Open 6am – 10pm Facebook: khumthaidoiangkhang 053 450 046 / 082 177 5942

7. Flour Flour This little bread place has just opened along Nimman Soi 17 and one of their specialities is a bamboo charcoal loaf, packed full of detoxifiers and great for a healthy breakfast.

Nimman Soi 17 092 916 4166 Facebook: Flourflourbread

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Citylife LOCAL

What is the strangest but best thing about Chiang Mai?

01

Marika Cowley, 19 Student, American

Hmm, I think all the interesting food you guys have! There is some really weird food out there but also really delicious food too!

02

Samara Marie, 29 English Teacher and MA Student, American

I would say communal eating. You don't order dishes of food to eat alone, but share with everyone at the table. Strange in my culture, but great for my commitment issues – I can try a little of everything rather than having to commit to only one dish.

03

Iqbal Bin Naba, 20 Student, Brunei Darussalam

Life in Chiang Mai could sound unexciting for some (people who like me in fact, who love an active life) but I don't know why; I just think this is what makes Chiang Mai unique. And so for me, this beautiful city is still my number one choice!

04

Phimonrat Ketchai, 24 Flight Attendant, Thai

The first thing that came to mind is that when I moved to Chiang Mai, all the restaurants gave me a fork and a spoon to eat my meal with. It was strange at first, but now it's the best way to eat, and I will never go back to a fork and knife. It just makes sense to eat Thai food this way!

05

Tracy Rose Lorensen, 33 English Teacher, American

When I first came to Chiang Mai, I was taken aback by the sheer diversity of the people, there were so many different nationalities and ethnicities here! I have only been to a few other places in the world where such harmony exists.

06

David Kim, 34 Teacher, American

I think the bum-gun is the strangest but the best thing in Chiang Mai. It's surprisingly refreshing!

07

Jennet, 66 English Teacher, United Kingdom

Where else in the world would all the first year students walk 14km up a mountain together in an initiation activity? Thousands of them! But it's not a race: it's a bonding activity. The atmosphere is AMAZING!

08

Julian Usselmann, 23 Student, German

Sometimes everything feels very tiny and close, which makes the city feel more like a town. But once you explore the outer parts of Chiang Mai, it actually feels much bigger than expected and always has a surprise.

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Chiang Mai Green Property Chiang Mai’s Tailored Property Solution.

www.facebook.com/cmgreenproperty/ www.CMGreenProperty.com At Chiang Mai Green Property we provide a bespoke all-in-one sales and rental service in and around Chiang Mai. We offer a broad spectrum of properties and land to suit all of our customers needs and, if we don’t have exactly what you are looking for, we pride ourselves on working closely with our clients to track down the property of your dreams.

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Grilled, Steamed, Delivered I’m Yours Grilling meats on the side of the road with an ice cold beer, tucking into freshly steamed crab or cheese baked lobsters with a glass of wine or blanching the meats of your choice over a shared hotpot – take your pick and turn your dinner into something exciting!

Funky Grill

This Funky Grill serves up a large menu of Chinese Mala spiced grilled meats and veg, such as bacon, lamb, chicken, beans, corn and mushrooms, all covered in Chinese spices. The word Mala is a combination of two Chinese words, Ma which means numbing and La which means spicy. The imported Szechuan peppercorns numb your mouth while the Chinese dried chilies set it on fire, leaving you with a tingle sensation that pairs perfectly with an ice cold beer or shot of soju. Although great as a late night snack, Funky Grill is open from 6pm, and often full of people soon after. You can order before you arrive or book a table via Line or phone to save the wait which can sometimes be quite long – it’s just that popular!

Open 6pm – 2am 199/7-8 Huay Kaew Road, At the front of the Funky Bike Rental Shop Facebook: Funky Grill Chiangmai LINE: @funkygrill 090 320 0888

Crab Inc.

ShaZube

Got crabs? Crab Inc. does! If you are fan of crabs, you can come get some delicious crustaceans, as well as a selection of choice premium seafood dishes, at Crab Inc. This trendy bistro which could easily fit into the heart of any capital city in the world, is small (make sure you make reservations) and has a limited menu. But every dish we tried was en point. Fresh fin de Claire oysters, tender prawns with that subtle crunch, lobster thermador and the house specialty of lots and lots of lovely crabs. The wine list is limited but well curated and priced just right, there are local and imported beers and either rice or chips to go with your seafood feast. Generous portions, super fresh, perfectly cooked, great ambiance. We’re fans.

Welcome in winter with a warm pot of bubbling soup ready for your meat, veg and seafood that you can blanch, boil and melt away at this premium grade shabu buffet. A cut above the rest, ShaZube charges 590 baht for a buffet that includes freshly made sushi, soft drinks and hot or cold tea. Take your pick from the three soup options – clear for a fragrant mellow taste, black which is perfect for beef fans or egg poachers and Miso for the classic Japanese taste. There is sashimi too, along with other morsels of grilled beef sushi and salmon Mentaiko sushi. Add another 190 baht to the bill to get access to the extra premium menu with many more meats, cheese or onion dips, seafood such as fresh scallops, New Zealand mussels and crayfish, and extra drink options as well as ice creams.

Open 5pm – 11pm 1/117 Malada Home & Resort, Canal Road 080 840 6661 Facebook: crabinc

Project Kadfarang Village on the 2nd floor of the Rim Ping Supermarket.

Open 11am-2.30pm and 4.30-9.30pm Tel. 095 448 1950 Facebook: Shazube Kadfarang

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Hotel Treats Whether you are looking for a super personalised boutique experience in the trendy heart of Nimman, an exotic getaway at the mouth of the Mae Sa Valley or a succulent lunch of Dim Sum to induce that afternoon nap, Chiang Mai has it all.

2Morrow

If you are looking for a luxuriously modern, private hotel that includes a butler who also cooks a lovely breakfast every morning and mixes cocktails late into the night, look no further than 2morrow Moments Private Home. This three floor townhouse has a spacious, naturally lit kitchen and living space, two beautifully designed bedroom suites, each on its own floor, and three patios where you, family or friends can make the most of your time together. You can stay in one of the suites, or if you are with friends or family, take over the entire place.

2morrow allows you to invite friends over, so you can even entertain and have parties there. 2morrow can be rented for 4,500 baht for one room per night or the whole house for 10,000 baht per night which can comfortably house four to six guests.

10/3 Soi 9 Nimmanhaemin Road 096 646 9545 www.2morrowthailand.com Facebook: 2morrowthailand

The Grand Morocc An exciting new conceptual residence in Mae Rim, this Moroccan inspired hotel complete with exotic tiles, elegant courtyard pool and huge suites, is a great place to stay if you want to have all the conveniences of home while also enjoying the luxuries of a hotel. Each suite is uniquely decorated by the owners who have collected an assortment of objects d’art from not just North Africa, but throughout Asia. All rooms open up to generous balconies, perfect for a hot cuppa tea or a sunset cocktail. Suites also come equipped with a kitchenette, large bathroom with rain shower, living area, dining table and comfortable bedroom. A unique hotel at the entrance of Mae Sa, Chiang Mai’s playground.

596/2 Moo 1, Rim Tai Sub-District, Mae Rim District, Chiang Mai 50180 053 299 835 Email: Info@grandmorocc.com www.grandmorocc.com

Dim Sum at Jasmine Restaurant, Dusit Princess Chiang Mai

Start your dim sum adventure with fish, shrimp and pork dumplings served on a bamboo basket, with the aroma of seamed hot bamboo wafting up along with the dumplings to entice your nostrils and make your mouth water. Tuck into pork ribs with black pepper, pork wrap by alga, scallop ha-gow dumplings and steamed buns with fillings such as barbeque pork and a rich lava of salted egg yolk. Pair it up with a soup, some fried rice with salted fish and a sweet custard bun for a sweet ending to this sweet dim sum buffet deal. At just 399 per person and 199 for children, its a bargain.

If you book a table for ten or more, get a free Peking Duck dish of your choice from the menu.

Chang Klan Road Open 11.30am - 2.30pm (Dim Sum) 053 253 900 Facebook: DusitPrincessCM www.dusit.com/dusitprincess/chiangmai/

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LOCAL

Rustic and Fresh If you are anything like our Thai CityNews editor, you’ll love these three places in town which are rustic, delicious and make the perfect Instagram post with #nofitler needed.

Hoppipolla Hoppipolla is such a huge hit you need to book a few days in advance.

Decorated with white Swedish loft style décor, the indoor is refreshing and clean while the outdoor is natural and breezy. Known for the giant plantes piled high with wholesome gooness, the chef useds seasonal fruits and veggies and slowly cooks all of his meats to perfection – make sure you try the spare ribs – a whopping 1kg of ribs on a plate surrounded by freshly cooked yams, vegetables and fruits. If ribs aren’t your thing, then why not try the beef steak burger mixed with spices served in a steamed bun and topped with a special sauce, the pork chop with cream cheese sauce or even the Korean chicken! This restaurant is a labour of love by its owners and we are lovin' it.

Hangdong-Samoeng Road, Hang Dong District (drive 2 kilometres before reaching the Khong Luang Strawberry Farm, and it’s on the right) Open 5.30pm – 10pm (closed Mondays) 090 550 0045 Facebook: hoppipollachiangmai

Nom Nakhon

Forest Bake

Milk bars are back! The biggest hit in Chiang Mai in the late 'nineties – soon overrun by cafes – this cute milk bar is known for its sweet and savoury options – often combined by customers to refill both the blood salt and sugar levels. Popular toasts include the honey toast and cheese bread. This month if you like their Facebook page and share a picture of your order with a cool caption you will get a serving of spicy shredded pork bread for free. Wash the toast down with a selection of delicious drinks, mostly milk, all of which have been sourced fresh from cows the very same day. Nom Nakhon’s slogan is ‘not just normal milk’, so there you go.

Recipes passed down from her great grandfather are lovingly honoured at Forest Bake, where quality baked goods are served inside a small, charmingly decorated hut in the garden of the popular Hinlay Curry restaurant. Grab yourself a fresh loaf of bread for your lunch, a cheeky double chocolate brownie for an afternoon snack, or pick up a ham and cheese toasted rolls on the way home. Each day the menu chops and changes - with everything freshly baked each morning - but the popular whole wheat bread, sesame bread and Canelé make regular appearances. You can even order a few days in advance so you can be sure to get enough bread for your dinner party or enough brownies for everyone at the Citylife office – we are only just down the road after all!

Open 9am – 8.30pm (closed Sundays) Behind the Thep Mongkhon Market, Chang Khian Road 082 384 8660 Facebook: นมณคร

Open 11.30am – 5pm (Close Mondays and Tuesdays) 8/1 Nawatgate Road Soi 1 053 242 621 Facebook: forestbake

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ADVERTORIAL

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HOUSE FOR SALE Spacious family home right behind Rimping Supermarket at Kad Farang in Hangdong 11.9 million baht or nearest offer.

4 very large bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, 5 toilets, 1 maids room and pool pump room, 1 Buddha / Prayer room or Office / study. 4 air con units, laundry, Back undercover patio with 35 sq/m area overlooking the pool.Curtains in all rooms. Underground water tank and high volume Mitsubishi water pump.

Ceiling fans in all rooms, Fire extinguishers and fire alarms.

Built in 2012, chanote. Land size 193 sq/wah, House size 350 sq/m, 2 car carport with Winfloor stamped concreted Italian electric gate with 3 remotes.

Salt water swimming pool 8.5M X 4.5M. Built in wardrobes, Solid oak kitchen by Homikitch (550,000 baht) with hot water at sink, Full gutters all around the house

by Alti Gutters (with 15 year warranty (140,000 Baht) Swiss made), landscaped garden and lawn. Partly furnished. Already has 3BB fibre optic super fast internet.

Close to Satit Ragsit and Grace International schools (1km / 10 mins walk).

Rimping Supermarket (450M / 8 mins walk)

15 minutes from airport You can contact my wife (Oi) in Thai on 0890546539 or myself (Adam) on 0895609886

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Religious Ceremonies 3rd, 10th, 17th and 24th November @ Chiang Mai Religious ceremonies to pay respect to His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej are happening across the city. Suan Dok Temple on 3rd November, Doi Suthep Temple on 10th November, Padarapirom Temple on 17th November and Chedi Luang Temple on 24th November.

Art and Exhibitions The Timeless Present Moment Now – 6th February 2017 @ MAIIAM Contemporary Art Museum Tel. 052 081 737 An exhibition by Kamin Lertchaipraser. From 10am-6pm, admission 150 baht. Closed Tuesdays.

For more information contact info@maiiam.com Friends Without Borders Evening 3rd November @ Sangdee Gallery Come and join to find out more about the important work of Friends without Borders. From 8pm until 11pm. For more information visit www. friends-without-borders.org.

Clubs and Societies What Is the Use of Old Books 8th November @ Alliance Française A talk by Graham Jefcoate, starts 7.30pm.

Fairs & Festivities Healthy Living & Wellbeing @SRANN Market Now - 14th April, 2017 @ SRANN Market, 4rd floor of Maya Lifestyle Shopping Centre Facebook: srannmarket Don’t miss the natural homemade, handmade products from Thai artisans and cloths from young designers.

Loy Krathong at Le Crystal 14th November @ Le Crystal Experience the finest French cuisine – 2,200 baht for a 4 course dinner with complimentary glass of sparkling wine, lantern and homemade floats for each table. Limited seating, reservations or further info call 053 872 890 or info@lecrystalrestaurant.com.

Experience Loy Krathong Feast at RatiLanna Riverside Spa Resort 14th November @ RatiLanna Riverside Spa Resort Tel. 053 999 333 info@ratilannachiangmai.com Celebrate this wonderful evening with your family.

Special local festivities and perfect dinner on the bank of Ping River. 6pm to 10pm. Only 2,999 baht per adult and 1,500 baht per child (6-12 years).

Loy Krathong Festival at River Market 14th November @ River Market Join for a traditional cultural celebration with a Thai street food style buffet and traditional entertainment. 4,000 baht per person all inclusive.

Book though the River Market 053 234 493 or any Dukes 053 249 231 or Ragu 053 142 665.

International Education Fair 15th November @ Shangri-La Hotel Tel. 053 224 303 One of the largest gatherings of UK and US universities will occur in Chiang Mai. Over 50 institutions will take part in the fair which will run from 4-7pm.

In addition to British and US universities there will also be British and Australian High Schools and English Language schools represented.

Prem University Fair 2016 15th November @ Prem Tinsulanonda International School Tel. 053 301 500 nicoled@ptis.ac.th or siyaratp@ptis.ac.th www.ptis.ac.th Meet with representatives from more than 90 colleges and universities from USA, UK, Australia, Canada, Europe, Asia, and others worldwide.

The one stop shop for university preparation and entry. Don’t miss out on this great opportunity!

Free Admission.

Yi Peng and Loy Krathong Festival 12th – 15th November @ Chiang Mai Join the traditional Lanna ceremony with lanterns and krathongs floating down the Ping River, or make merit at one of the many temples in Chiang Mai. This year will be toned down in respect to the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej.

Halloween at Meat for Warm Heart 19th November @ Meat.

The party will take place on all three floors of Meat with DJ sets, quality sandwiches, and more.

Costumes encouraged! 100 baht entrance will go directly to The Warm Heart Foundation to build a well at their orphanage in Phrao.

Light Candle and Lantern to Pay Respecting For the Late King Bhumibol Adulyadej 12th - 15th November @ Three King's Monument Joni in the sermon and light 56,000 candles and lanterns around inside of the moat. From 6pm.

Thanksgiving at The Duke’s 24th November @ The Duke’s Celebrate Thanksgiving with family and friends.

For reservation call 053 249 231231 (Ping River Branch), 052 081 095 (Maya Branch) and 053-142-751(Promenada Branch)

The Citylife Garden Fair has been postponed until further notice.

Prem International Day 2016 26th November @ Prem Tinsulanonda International School www.ptis.ac.th Food and cultural activities from 15 countries, performances on stage, flag parade, silent auction of international hampers and sponsor vouchers to be won. From 2-6 pm. For more information please email marketing@ptis.ac.th.

Workshops North Thailand Cultural Experience Photo Workshop 7th November @ Chiang Mai Photo Workshops Facebook: chiangmaiphotographytours Come and be immersed in northern Thai culture while enjoying rich photography experiences in a friendly, encouraging learning environment with professional photography teachers. Workshop precedes the famous Loy Krathong Festival which runs from the evening of November 12th until the 15th.

Cancer Care 2016 5th November (Postponed indefinitely) @ Royal Park Rajapruek and Chiang Mai Night Safari Tel. 053 298 181 cancercare.chiangmai@fourseasons.com Let’s bike, walk and run! Registration at 5.30am, cycling from 7am and walk-run from 7.05am.

Tickets 299 baht which includes a T-shirt, medal and entry into a lucky draw. Raising funds for the Hematological Cancer, Research Centre and the Genetic, Cancer Research Centre at Chulalongkorn Hospital, Thai Red Cross Society.

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More Pics @ www.chiangmaicitylife.com/citynow

Openings

China kitchen new menu launch at Shangri-La Hotel

Local media were invited to the opening of Rim Tai Kitchen at the Four Seasons Resort Mae Rim

The owners organised a meeting with media at Tulou Restaurant

Opening of Drift + Trace exhibition by Paul Hay at Chiang Mai University Art Center

Opening of Thai China Book Fair 2016 at the Chiang Mai International Convention and Exhibition Centre

Opening Myanmar National Airlines at Suriwongse Hotel Chiang Mai

The 4th Cabling Contest 2016 at CGV 2, Chiang Mai Grandview Hotel

Con Moto, the music event organiser and workshop opening

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Party

Chang 'Friend Day Friday' Party at Infinity Club

Rainbow NIght 'ladies only' at the Service 1921 Bar Anantara Chiang Mai Resort

The Wine Gallery hosted a wine dinner at Dhara Dhevi

Wine Tasting by HeyBottle at Peaberry Hotel

Wine & Dine Gala Dinner by Chef Benjamin Leib at Kantary Hills Hotel

2nd Anniversary of Roofbar

A press conference was held at the Holiday Inn to announce Fashion Kings’ Bollywood

Best for Men Fashion Show at Robinson Department Store Central Airport Plaza

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Distinguished Gentleman Bikers DGR 2016 started at Good View Village

Documentary screening of King of Kong at Sangdee Gallery

Dry Cocktail Sundowner with Rendex-vous master mixologist Lorenzo Miglietta at Ratree Bar, Four Seasons Resort

Fin Market at Toyota Rich

Huay Hom Coffee Cupping Taste

Opening J Festival 2016 at Central Festival Chiang Mai

Kizomba workshop with Mr Fusion at Embrace Studio

Latin Dance outside at d-squared dusitD2

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Le Meridien Wedding Fair at Central Festival Chiang Mai

Miss Myanmar World 2016 (Bella Vector) accompanied

by Runner Up (M Jae Seng) and Second Runner Up (La Yeik Pyar) were welcomed at dusitD2 by the Chiang Mai Tourism Council

Local media were invited to Boonthavorn for their Kitchen Festival 2016

Chiang Mai governor opens Green Space Gate

The 5th Anniversary of Ristr8to Party

Think Fast Smart at Chiang Mai Hall, Central Plaza Chiang Mai Airport

PokĂŠmon on Tour at 1st floor, Central Festival Chiang Mai

Professor Dr. Paitoon Narongchai and team had dinner to celebrated 50 years anniversary of Medicine, Chiang Mai University at Le Coq d'Or

Jim’s Birthday, the owner of Girasole

Nals Margreid Wine Dinner at Cuisine de Garden

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Citylife CHIANG MAI FOODSCAPE AT SPOON & FORK

Allergro @ Dhara Dhevi Chef Dario Busnelli of Dhara Dhevi reveals his secret recipes this month, featuring some of his most coveted dishes in his repertoire in the exciting new Italian restaurant, Allergro, opening in November.

Experience the exclusivity of this boutique Italian restaurant where attention is paid to every single detail. And bask in the aromas and flavours that is Italy.

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