BALLARAT autumn & winter 24 magazine

DISCOVER TRANQUILITY IN VICTORIA’S TOP TOURISM TOWN

48 hours

IN THE PYRENEES WINE REGION

Ginaissance

DISCOVER BALLARAT’S BOOMING DISTILLING SCENE

Accessible travel

A DISABILITY-FRIENDLY GUIDE TO THE CITY

The Ballad of Sexual Dependency

2 March – 2 June 2024

Nan Goldin’s extended photographic study of her chosen family – her ‘tribe’ – is a defining artwork of the 1980s.

image: Nan Goldin Nan and Brian in bed, New York City, 1983 1983, National Gallery of Australia, Kamberri/Canberra, purchased 2021 in celebration of the National Gallery of Australia’s 40th anniversary, 2022 © Nan Goldin

This exhibition is developed in partnership with the National Gallery of Australia through the Regional Initiatives Program, supported by Major Partner AWM Electrical and Data Suppliers.

If there are two things Ballarat really nails, it’s autumn and winter.

Autumn’s magical palette paints the city’s tree-lined streets in golden hues. Then winter arrives, with ethereal mist and low-lying fog almost hugging the city. These seasonal signatures are made even more special by the contrast of the heritage buildings for which Ballarat is renowned.

Seasonal menus promise mouth-watering morsels created by crafty chefs utilising the region’s best produce. Roaring fires offer opportunities to cocoon, perhaps while sampling one (or several) drops from nearby wineries.

The enticing line-up of autumn and winter events adds to the chorus of reasons that make locking in a Ballarat adventure a must. Whether you want to rock out, chill out or dine out, the options are abundant.

Returning in autumn is the award-winning Ballarat Heritage Festival, headlined by opera performance Parrwang Lifts the Sky. You’ll also be able to see crafters and artisans displaying their skills, get tasting at Sovereign Hill’s Heritage Harvest Weekend, be immersed in a dinner with a difference, and marvel at renowned artist Craig Walsh’s haunting projections – the list goes on.

Winter also delights with the Ballarat Winter Festival and all it brings. Ice skating, a multi-sensory sound and light show, and so much more warms both hearts and souls – no matter what the temperature.

There’s also elite sport, the world’s poshest picnic, a shimmering winter light show, a beloved weekendlong ‘celebration of the book’ and – actually, come and see for yourself!

What’s inside

This publication is created and printed in Ballarat. Published by Tourism Midwest Victoria. visitballarat.com.au | hello@tourismmidwestvic.com.au

All information was correct at the time of printing. Please check ahead of your visit to Ballarat.

Printed by Low Co2 Certified Printer

Sovereign Press Pty Ltd Ballarat

COVER IMAGE:

Housed within the heritage-listed Ballarat Goods Shed, Itinerant Spirits is the region’s newest distillery to open its doors. Image: Tony Evans.

IMAGES ABOVE:

Top: Art Gallery of Ballarat. Image: Mass Motion.

Middle: Unyoked, Pyrenees.

Bottom: Grainery Lane. Image: The Common Wanderer.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY

Across Victoria’s Midwest, we acknowledge that we travel across the ancient landscapes of many First Peoples communities.

These lands have been nurtured and cared for over tens of thousands of years and we respect the work of Traditional Custodians for their ongoing care and protection.

We recognise the past injustices against Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples in this country. As our knowledge grows, we hope that we can learn from their resilience and creativity that has guided them for over 60,000 years.

As we invite people to visit and explore Victoria’s Midwest, we ask that alongside us, you also grow to respect the stories, living culture and connection to Country of the Ancestors and Elders of our First Peoples.

What’s on in Ballarat this autumn & winter

From Aussie music icons to dazzling light shows, and festivals celebrating everything from wine to books, there’s plenty to make your next Ballarat visit a memorable one.

BLOOMIN’ BEAUTIFUL

The Ballarat Begonia Festival is one of Australia’s oldest horticultural events, celebrating the city’s unique and rare collection of over 500 begonia plants.

The free festival runs over the Labour Day long weekend and will be headlined by a celebrity line-up including River Cottage Australia host Paul West, Gardening Australia presenter and sustainable gardener Hannah Moloney, MasterChef Australia alumni Courtney Roulston and Gardening Australia presenter and horticulture/begonia expert Jerry Coleby-Williams.

CRANKING UP THE TUNES

The Red Hot Summer Tour (16 March) is set to rock Ballarat with a star-studded roster hitting the stage at Victoria Park. Headliner Suzi Quatro will be joined by Cheap Trick, Jon Stevens, The Angels, Baby Animals, The Screaming Jets and Chocolate Starfish.

And then the very next day (17 March), SummerSalt returns for a day of sun-kissed fun with a huge line-up including James Bay, Matt Corby, Ziggy Alberts, Thelma Plum, Kita Alexander and Mia Wray.

There’s also the Power FM Begonia Parade, family activities, roving entertainment including giant bees, butterflies and ladybugs on stilts, market stalls, local tipples at the Begonia Bar and two food truck precincts.

All set in the beautiful Ballarat Botanical Gardens.

Ballarat Begonia Festival

9–11 March

ballaratbegoniafestival.com

Meanwhile, it’s 20 years since Missy Higgins burst onto the Australian music scene. To celebrate, she’s bringing her new show, The Second Act Tour, to Ballarat’s Civic Hall (29 March).

redhotsummertour.com.au summersaltmusic.com.au hermaj.com

Image: Red Hot Summer Tour

Image: Meda Design

LET’S TALK SPORT

Why not sign up for the firstever Ballarat Marathon this April 27-28. Open to both elite and recreational athletes, the course line-up will take place through the city’s historic streets and includes the mile, 5km, 10km, half marathon and marathon.

If sitting back and watching is more your thing, then grab your ticket to the AFL at Mars Stadium. On Sunday 24 March, the Western Bulldogs will host the Gold Coast Suns. They’ll then end the home and away season back in the city with a round 24 match against the GWS Giants. ballaratmarathon.com.au westernbulldogs.com.au

SMALL TOWN FESTIVALS, BIG TIME FUN

There’s so much festival fun to be had in the regions surrounding Ballarat.

The beloved Clunes Booktown (23–24 March) is a weekend ‘celebration of the book’ filled with author talks, presentations, workshops, live entertainment and thought-provoking conversations in the beloved historic township.

clunesbooktown.com.au

CresFest Folk and Roots Festival (5–7 April) brings hundreds of artists to 15 stages in the forested goldfields town of Creswick. Artists ranging from local treasures and national stars to international legends will perform in historic buildings, local pubs,

WINTER WONDERLAND

Winter will be truly wonderful with the return of Sovereign Hill’s immersive sound and light experience, Winter Wonderlights.

While you’re in town for the shimmering light show, why not stay a little longer and check out the Ballarat Winter Festival.

Be mesmerised by flaming swords at Kryal Castle, then get your skates on at the pop-up ice skating rink in the Ballarat CBD.

Winter Wonderlights

28 June – 21 July sovereignhill.com.au

Ballarat Winter Festival

29 June – 21 July ballaratwinterfestival.com.au

For more details about what’s on in Ballarat, head to visitballarat.com.au

cafes and in the great outdoors. You’ll also find light displays at night, free kids’ activities, workshops and local produce at the festival market.

cresfest.com.au

Pyrenees Unearthed Wine and Food Festival (13 April) is held on the beautiful banks of the Avoca River. Festivalgoers can sample wines from over 25 wineries with local beer, cider and gin also available. There’s also local food and produce on offer, a wine auction, entertainment and kids’ activities.

pyreneesunearthedfestival.com.au

BALLARAT’S BEST PIE

Enjoy a slice of Ballarat this August. From flaky crusts to mouth-watering fillings, there’s bound to be a pie to satisfy your tastebuds.

The stakes are high this winter, with chefs all over the region competing to win the coveted title of Ballarat’s Best Pie. From curried concoctions to something sweet, there’s more than 20 pies from local cafes, restaurants and bakeries to be discovered.

1–31 August

LIGHT UP THE NIGHT

Ballarat’s historic streetscapes will come alive when White Night returns to the city.

In a Victorian exclusive, the spectacular showcase of projections, performances, music and interactive works will take over the city’s streets and laneways on Saturday 1 June.

White Night Ballarat

1 June

whitenight.com.au/ballarat

Image: Western Bulldogs

Image: Sovereign Hill

Image: Matt Dunne

Timesoaked tipple:

How Ballarat is embracing the gin renaissance

It’s boom time for distilleries in Australia, with the country now boasting more than three times the number found in Scotland.

Ballarat’s place in this spirits renaissance is well earned, with its history of distilling – the legal and not so legal – stretching back to the city’s gold rush days. The first legal distillery in Victoria opened in the city in the 1860s, with Warrenheip Distillery producing gin and whisky until the mid-1930s.

Prior to this more respectable endeavour, gutsy and hardworking goldfields women supported their families through harsh and unforgiving times by selling illicit booze on the diggings. Today, Sovereign Hill’s Sly Grog gin pays homage to these women. Sly Grog gets its flavour by being infused with botanicals sourced from the outdoor museum’s own organic gardens.

The gin is produced by Kilderkin Distillery, who reignited Ballarat’s contemporary distilling scene when they launched in 2016. Since then, there’s been a steady stream of openings, with the region now home to five must-visit producers.

ITINERANT SPIRITS

The most recent addition to Ballarat’s distilling scene, Itinerant Spirits is housed within the 160-year-old heritage-listed Ballarat Goods Shed in the city’s historic railway precinct.

Itinerant Spirits’ world-class, hyperlocal distilling operation produces three different spirits – Gallivanter Gin, Vansetter Vodka and Wayfarer Whiskey – using locally-grown grains, botanicals and natural volcanic spring water.

You can learn more about the origins of these ingredients and the distilling process during one of the scheduled Explorer Masterclasses.

The 140-seat venue features soaring ceilings, raw bluestone walls and is decked out with a 3000-litre vodka and whiskeyproducing German Kothe still, a 650-litre gin still and a 24,000-litre on-grain brewhouse – all of which shimmer like an art installation under the custom lighting.

The menu features an extended spirit curation and charcuterie boards plus you can enjoy shared plates from neighbouring eateries Boom Time Dumplings and Nolans.

itinerantspirits.com

Itinerant Spirits. Image: Tony Evans

Itinerant Spirits.

Image: The Goods Shed

RED DUCK DISTILLERY

Stop by Red Duck and get more than you expect with the venue home to both a distillery and a brewing operation.

Red Duck’s premium artisan spirits lineup includes their Signature Dry Gin, Shiraz Gin, Secret Hop Garden Gin, Queen of the Desert Gin and Wonderland Gin. Vodka flavours including Lilli Pilli and Finger Lime plus Kakadu Plum and Davidson Plum add to the experience.

Tasting paddles are available and come with suggestions and gin guides. While you’re there, be sure to check out the Tasmanian-built Knapp Lewer 500-litre pot still that’s on show.

redduckdistillery.com.au

KILDERKIN DISTILLERY

Kilderkin Distillery combines traditional distilling methods with contemporary approaches.

Its award-winning Larrikin Gin is produced by forcing distillation vapours through baskets containing a range of botanicals, resulting in a smooth, light and wellbalanced spirit.

A visit to the distillery door gives visitors the opportunity to sample a variety of the gins created at the Mount Pleasant venue.

For those seeking a more hands-on, immersive experience, there are regular workshops and classes including the Gin School where, under the guidance of expert distillers, guests handpick a selection of botanicals and distil their very own gin.

kilderkindistillery.com.au

GRAINERY LANE

Step inside cocktail bar Grainery Lane and you’re transported back in time with a space that brings back the glitz and glamour of the gold rush era – with a dash of Great Gatsby, speakeasy vibes.

Taking pride of place is a 400-litre copper still and a massive original bar top sourced from Chicago. Sparkling chandeliers featuring hundreds of glowing crystal pieces, grand leather couches and opulent furniture all add to the luxe, rich feel.

Eight gins and two vodkas are made on site using local produce, with the Grainery Lane drinks menu showcasing these in both traditional and eclectic, custom creations. The list is rounded out with a range of beer and wine from near and far.

The liquor theme continues on Grainery Lane’s south-east Asian/Latin American share-style menu with many of the dishes infused with Grainery Lane spirits – think gininfused oysters and vodka beetroot – while the rest of the line-up features items cooked over coals.

grainerylane.com.au

MRS BAKER’S STILL HOUSE

Explore a little further and you’ll come across the tiny Pyrenees hamlet of Glenpatrick. It’s here, where grazing land meets the rugged forest, that you’ll find the female-led micro-distillery Mrs Baker’s Still House.

The sheltered valley in the hills is the perfect environment for founder Jane Baker to grow many of the botanicals used in her award-winning gins and liqueurs. Other botanicals are foraged from the hills or picked from local farms. Food miles remain low, the base neutral spirit is distilled from wine made and grown on the farm, and the distillation process is 100% solar-powered.

Visit on weekends and keep an eye out for a range of workshops, classes and garden days.

mrsbakers.com.au

Image: The Common Wanderer

Image: Tony Evans

Image: MDP Photography

Image: Tony Evans

NAN GOLDIN: THE BALLAD OF SEXUAL DEPENDENCY

2 March – 2 June

The Ballad of Sexual Dependency is a defining artwork of the 1980s. Nan Goldin’s extended photographic study of her chosen family – her ‘tribe’ – sees her alongside her friends and lovers in New York as they live their lives – hanging out, falling in and out of love, having children. But this is a community that would be decimated by HIV/AIDS and drug-related deaths. This series of 126 photographs has recently become part of the National Gallery of Australia’s collection.

Image: Nan Goldin, Mark tattooing Mark, Boston, 1978. © Nan Goldin

LOST IN PALM SPRINGS

4 May – 21 July

Lost in Palm Springs is an interdisciplinary exhibition bringing together 14 creative minds including internationally-recognised artists, photographers and thinkers from America and Australia. Together they respond to, capture, or reimagine the magical qualities of the landscape and the desert city’s celebrated mid-century modern architecture.

Image: Kate Ballis, 2350, 2017. infrared photograph

5 reasons

to

visit the Art Gallery of Ballarat

ANGELA BRENNAN: TÊTE-À-TÊTE & VIS-À-VIS

10 February – 21 April

Ballarat-born artist Angela Brennan has exhibited in numerous solo and group shows both nationally and internationally for over 30 years. Brennan works predominantly in painterly abstraction to depict elements of an inner world. Her immersive paintings invite the viewer into her universe – a state of introspection, contemplation and feeling expressed through colour and form. Brennan’s installation includes a sculpture inspired by a 19th-century-style conversation couch owned by the gallery which she became acquainted with when visiting as a teenager.

Image: Angela Brennan, String theory, 2020. oil on linen

GEORGIA MACGUIRE: ONEMDA

10 February – 21 April

Known as Blackgin, artist Georgia MacGuire states that her heart beats for ‘community, culture and country’. Based in Creswick, her art serves as a bridge which connects MacGuire to others and enabling her to share her perspectives as a First Nations woman in what is now known as Australia. Onemda is a Woiwurrung word meaning ‘love’ or ‘the regard that we have for each other that holds us together as a community’. This exhibition includes woven and 3D works like shields and masks which have been made from natural materials such as paperbark and feathers.

Image: Georgia MacGuire

SCOTTY SO: HAI KOT TOU & QUEEN OF BEGONIAS

23 February – 4 April

Scotty So is a Melbourne-based artist who works across multiple media. Driven by the thrill of camp, he explores the often-contradictory relationship between humour and sincerity within lived experience. So’s exhibition features the premiere of a new video work paying tribute to the Begonia Queens, who were part of the Ballarat Begonia Festival from 1953 to 1993. Images from So’s series Hai Kot Tou will also be exhibited.

Image: Scotty So, Guchi, 2021. Image courtesy the artist and MARS Gallery.

Shorts in winter is back for 2024

Poco Film Fest is punching above its weight as it brings the best Australian short films to Ballarat once again!

After the sell-out success of the inaugural Poco Film Fest in 2022, Ballarat’s own short film festival is back.

On 2-3 August, it will be brought to life once more by local creative agency Mass Motion.

The vision of Poco Film Fest is to foster new and emerging talent and build a community for filmmakers and moviegoers to share, collab and inspire, all the while showcasing Ballarat’s significant creative cred.

This year, filmmakers will compete for three major prizes – Best Short Film, Jury Prize and Best Student Film.

“We can’t wait to build on the success and momentum of the inaugural festival and solidify Poco’s position as a leading Australian short film festival,” festival director Luke Keys said.

“This year, we have received a huge number of entries, with many awardwinning films from around the country.”

The 2024 festival has grown into a two-day event, including ‘Director Talks’ sessions at The Goods Shed on Friday afternoon and the live screening of finalist short films at Regent Cinemas on Saturday night.

Tickets on sale from 1 April.

pocofilmfest.com.au

10 accessible ways to Ballaratexperience

Avid traveller and wheelchair user Ryan Smith gets a taste of Ballarat’s access-friendly cafes, restaurants, hotels and attractions.

On a crisp but clear morning, the Melbourne skyline is getting smaller in my rear-view mirror as I merge on to the M80.

As a wheelchair user, leaving the comfort of my backyard can be exciting and rewarding – but it’s not without some trepidation.

Join me as I explore Ballarat and discover 10 things that might work for you too – from the iconic and historic, to the sublime and luxurious.

1. HYDRANT FOOD HALL

Hydrant Food Hall has quickly become a Ballarat staple and sits within the warehouse walls of a former sprinkler system shop.

The conversion lends itself to good access. With open spaces, a wide entry door, accessible toilet and range of tables and seating, there’s room to move around in an inviting, contemporary feel.

Rolling up to and under my table, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in Fitzroy or North Melbourne. The coffee and food are on par too.

2. ART GALLERY OF BALLARAT

The Art Gallery of Ballarat punches well above its weight. For me, a gallery alone can be a reason to visit somewhere –but then I am an art tragic.

Strolling or rolling amongst some fine 19th-century landscapes and portraits, you’re invited to consider and reflect. They’re juxtaposed with some powerful colourful abstract works that challenge and excite.

There is excellent signage, lifts and helpful staff on hand. There’s accessible parking too, directly out the front.

Ballarat’s Emma Banks and her mum Dee enjoy breakfast at Hydrant Food Hall.

Ryan Smith and Ballarat local Christine admire works at the Art Gallery of Ballarat.

Image: Mass Motion

Image: Mass Motion

3. SOVEREIGN HILL

If you want to get a true sense of another time and place, Sovereign Hill has this in spades.

To be clear, the location poses some access issues for those with low mobility – the main street is steep and the surface might not be ideal for some visitors.

But you’d be wise not to let that discourage you – with some planning and help (I used a wheelchair power assist), you’ll find there’s plenty to get involved in.

Wheelchairs are available for free hire, many (not all) of the buildings are stepfree and there’s the night-time sound and light show AURA which caters for everyone.

4. THE FORGE PIZZERIA

The Forge Pizzeria is a Ballarat icon, serving woodfired pizza and pasta to hungry locals and visitors alike, and they strike a great balance between affordability, comfort and quality.

In case you were wondering, I’ll answer three questions upfront – there’s accessible parking nearby, two accessible toilets in the building and step-free access.

5. THE PROVINCIAL HOTEL

I’ve never seen an accessible bathroom with a spa bath until I discovered luxurious, European-styled boutique The Provincial Hotel’s Lola Apartment. In the name of research, I had to give it a try.

The Lola Apartment has a thoughtfully considered accessible bathroom, an ensuite, two generous bedrooms and a full kitchen.

I’m rolling around easily, even transferring to the couch to enjoy a hot English breakfast tea. It’s the nuanced accessibility considerations that make this a winner for a special weekender or just because.

6. LOLA AT THE PROVINCIAL HOTEL

The Provincial’s ground floor all-day restaurant, Lola, provides a breakfast experience in the best possible way.

The staff, the setting and the food (oh, the food!) all provided an easy and relaxing start to the day.

7. DEMENTIA FRIENDLY FOREST & SENSORY TRAIL

Just 10 minutes’ drive from Ballarat’s town centre, Woowookarung Regional Park is home to Australia’s first dementia trail.

Everyone can enjoy the 3km of pathways, including a boardwalk and wetlands. There’s also the Welcome Wander trail, which is wheelchair accessible and invites visitors to take in the textures and scents of the bush as well as the sights.

The wide meandering pathway, frequent break areas and the stillness make this a great place to unplug and feel the renewing gift of nature.

8. BALLARAT WILDLIFE PARK

Even people who don’t tend to like zoos are fans of the Ballarat Wildlife Park.

Some like it because of the open setting, others because animal welfare seems to be a genuine priority. And others, well, maybe because they like to be around the 100+ free roaming kangaroos.

The setting is wide and flat and the access seems to be considered – it’s great to see the use of glass so everyone can peer into the enclosures. There is also an undercover cafe and a souvenir shop on site, plus accessible parking and toilets.

9. HOP TEMPLE

Accessibility is one of those things you don’t see until you need it. And when you have it, not only can you get around but you also feel welcomed and considered.

On a brisk Wednesday night, I joined a swelling number of people gradually crowding onto tables at Hop Temple for the regular trivia night.

I nabbed one of the low tables early and, peering up from my beer and brisket special, empty seats and bar stools soon got harder to find.

Access is well considered with a full accessible toilet, flat concrete floor and good space for manoeuvring around tables and stools.

10. HOTEL VERA

You might think that due to the décor, Hotel Vera is all about style. You’d be right, but it’s also about service (and access).

The Tourello Suite is the beautifullyappointed accessible room. The old circular servants’ switch sits across from the push button for the power-opening door –tradition next to stylish innovation, which is kind of a metaphor for this property.

The bathroom really is a masterclass in how style and access can not only co-exist but compliment one another. There’s even a light that softly radiates as the sensors find you in the bathroom at night.

Elsewhere, there’s a wide hallway connecting the ground floor rooms, a stairway with handrails and tactile indicators for visitors who are blind or low vision.

If you’re looking for a luxury, accessible stay in Ballarat, you’d be hard pressed to beat Vera.

Hotel Vera’s Tourello Suite features an automatic door opened with a key access card, lever handles on tapware, shower seat, grab handles on the shower and toilet, plus toilet backrest.

Emma Banks peeks into the underwater penguin enclosure at the Ballarat Wildlife Park.

Image: Marcel Aucar

Image: Mass Motion

HOURS IN THE PYRENEES WINE REGION

This is the sort of place you can drop into for a couple of days or potter around for a week.

Sip the weekend away

1. WAYWARD WINERY

Head to Waubra, just 20 minutes outside Ballarat, and you’ll find this slice of paradise on the side of dormant volcano Quoin Hill.

Wayward Winery’s focus on local produce is enhanced by the emphasis on cooking with fire, with the kitchen featuring both an Argentinian grill and a large woodfired pizza oven. Settle in for a wine tasting and share in a delicious plate of food among friends.

Just across the Sunraysia Highway is Eastern Peake Vineyard. This popular Coghills Creek winery produces an awardwinning range of minimal intervention wines under Eastern Peake and Latta Vino labels. Pair these with a produce board and you’re in for a fabulous afternoon.

2. SALLY’S PADDOCK AT REDBANK WINERY

Recently celebrating its 50th year, the famous Sally’s Paddock vineyard at Redbank Winery continues to produce some of the best wines in the Pyrenees region. The cellar door is open every day except Christmas Day with the on-site Flying Pig Deli serving platters from 11am-3pm.

3. TALTARNI WINERY & VINEYARD

One of the pioneers of the Pyrenees renaissance in the 1960s, Taltarni, with its beautiful vineyards in Moonambel, is one of the most popular and wellknown wineries of the region. Indulge in a ploughman’s platter of locally produced cheeses, meats and breads, and if you time your visit right, you might even catch some live music.

4. DALWHINNIE WINES

If you enjoy a good glass of red then make Dalwhinnie your first stop. Hailed by critics and wine lovers, the Dalwhinnie Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon are a must at this scenic dog-friendly venue.

5. SUMMERFIELD WINERY

Summerfield Winery owner Mark Summerfield has extended the cellar door to include a restaurant and grows his own pork and lamb which he butchers himself. Fresh bread and pastries are also baked on site. You’ll find Mark in the vineyard, making woodfired pizzas or baking in the kitchen, but he will always find time to talk to visitors about his wines.

Unyoked, Pyrenees

Sleep under the stars

1. UNYOKED

Why not make the most of the beautiful Pyrenees scenery and book a night in an Unyoked cabin.

Hike up a rugged hillside behind a winery to one of three off-grid Unyoked cabins. Each cabin has a fire pit for roasting marshmallows and the undisrupted views of the winter skies are perfect for stargazing and astrophotography.

2. THE GLUT FARM

Maybe a luxury mountainside farmstay sounds more your style? Set on 100 acres of private land, this three-bedroom farmhouse can accommodate up to seven people, with an outdoor woodfire oven for

Something to do

1. A DAY IN THE GARDEN AT MOUNT MITCHELL ESTATE

Discover the historic grounds of National Trust-listed Mount Mitchell Estate (circa 1838) with horticulturalist, educator and property owner Kate Tol in an immersive full-day tour and gardening experience. Catering for the day is provided by the Country Women’s Association, so get ready for quality scones to keep up your green thumb energy.

2. EXPLORE AVOCA

Hit the gravel of the Avoca-Moonambel Cycling Loop and discover the region from a different perspective. This trail is suitable for riders of all fitness levels and takes approximately 3.5 hours.

Stop for lunch at The Avoca, a beautifullyrestored country hotel dating back to the gold rush. Then head to the silo artwork on Station Street for a quick photo. On the fourth Sunday of the month, you can also visit the Avoca Riverside Market

WIN A TWO-NIGHT ESCAPE IN BALLARAT

Devour plates piled high with dishes celebrating local produce, sip magical creations in quirky locations and be immersed in experiences you’ll never forget.

We’re giving one lucky winner and a person of their choice the chance to experience the best that Ballarat has to offer with a two-night escape valued at $2,000.

Simply answer a few questions about your travel habits and sign up to our mailing list to enter.

Head to visitballarat.com.au/competitions or scan the QR code to enter. T&Cs apply.

the ultimate pizza night. It is a great base for exploring the hiking trails of nearby Mt Cole or just spend your weekend on the couch with some local wines.

3. PYRENEES GLAMPING RETREAT

Leave the city behind and fall asleep to the sound of nature. A two-hour drive from Melbourne and you’ll find yourself among gum trees on this family farm in Bung Bong.

Cosy up by a crackling fire and reconnect with nature, all the while enjoying the luxuries that come with glamping (yes, that includes hot showers).

3. TRAVEL IN UNPARALLED STYLE

Get ready to leave the chaos of your busy life behind. It’s time to indulge in a little “me time” and embrace the art of meandering in the comfort and style of a 1974 vintage Rolls Royce. Silver Mink Tours create boutique bespoke or readyto-roll tours at captivating destinations, tucked away in the paddocks, foothills, bush blocks and back streets of the Pyrenees.

4. HEAD OUT ON A WALK

For fit and experienced walkers, you’re going to want to get your hiking boots out for the Beeripmo Walk

The 24km strenuous overnight walk takes approximately 12 hours and passes between Mt Cole State Forest and the Mount Buangor State Park. The walk starts and finishes at Richards Campground, which is a popular spot for campers all-year round.

For something a lot less demanding on the legs, the 1km Waterfalls Nature Walk is always a great option.

Mr Jones.

Image: Tony Evans

Eat + Drink

Ballarat’s eat and drink cred is on the rise. From new openings to an expanding list of chef hat awards, from unassuming to upscale, the culinary scene is reason enough to plan your first (or fifth!) visit to Ballarat.

Boom Time Dumplings

There’s a new eat and drink destination in Ballarat with The Goods Shed precinct now open for business. Joining Itinerant Spirits (see p6) are two tasty new offerings.

The first of these is Boom Time Dumplings, which is dishing up favourites inspired by the street food of Hong Kong. You’ll find confit duck spring rolls, pulled beef cheek bao, kung pao chicken, lemongrass dumplings with house spring onion oil (pictured) and more! Take a seat, grab and go or even get it delivered to your table while you’re on your tasting journey at Itinerant Spirits.

Flying Chillies

Ask a local foodie for an insider’s tip and you’re more than likely to hear about farmers’ market favourite Flying Chillies

Having recently moved into a permanent home, owner Lilly Wright is bringing the vibrant flavours of her Malaysian and Indonesian heritage to the masses. Think Malaysian-style chicken satay, Indonesian roasted pork belly with green mango and cucumber salad. Flying Chillies were also the winner of first place in last year’s Ballarat’s Best Pie competition (nyonya braised pork in fermented soybean, for those following at home).

Image: The Goods Shed

Nolans

Rounding out the foodie fun at The Goods Shed precinct is Nolans, where the menu is curated by award-winning executive chef Konstantin Putkin. Dishes are constructed using superb produce from local suppliers and pristine native ingredients.

Nolans is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, so head on over for your muchneeded morning brew or settle into the dining room for something special like the rock oysters with lime, house made mignonette and baked with garlic and chive (pictured).

Image: underbar

underbar

Pronounced ‘oon-de-bar’ and named for the Swedish word meaning, among other things, ‘delectable, divine, gorgeous, great, lovely, marvellous and wonderful’, Good Food Guide-hatted underbar is a destination diner in the true sense.

The brainchild of head chef and owner Derek Boath – formerly of New York’s three-Michelin Per Se – underbar treats 20 guests to an intimate evening featuring a degustation menu created with wild ingredients from nearby farms and local suppliers.

Vegetarian guests can enjoy a full tasting menu one weekend every season. The team has also recently started offering a four-course lunch on Saturdays. Reservations are released on the first of the month at 9am.

Babae

A stay at Ballarat’s luxe Hotel Vera has just become even more enticing with the opening of new on-site restaurant Babae

With a name derived from the Latin meaning of an exclamation of amazement, it’s no surprise that the ever-changing menu from chef Tim Foster, formerly of hatted restaurant Source Dining, is wowing guests.

Dishes reflect the season through a contemporary interpretation of classic cooking techniques and are matched with wine pairings that introduce diners to barrel samples and small production releases from across Victoria.

Sip Champagne Bar

Be sure to check out one of Ballarat’s newest openings, Sip Champagne Bar, where guests are encouraged to…well… sip champagne!

The decadent deco-inspired interior provides the perfect backdrop to work your way through an extensive selection of the finest champagnes and sparkling wines.

Adding to the experience is French and European-influenced food pairings (cured salmon, pickled baby cucumber and caviar anyone?). Champagne masterclasses are also available.

Image: Flying Chillies

Image: Sip Champagne Bar

Image: Emma Duzhnikov

Things to do

There’s so much to do in Ballarat, you won’t know where to start! Hit the streets to check out some vibrant public art, learn a skill from times gone by, shop up a storm or bliss out at a day spa.

Image: Tony Evans

Check out some public art

Ballarat has an extensive collection of public art that’s well worth exploring (and it’s as impressive as anything you’ll find in Melbourme, but without the crowds).

The latest addition to Ballarat’s public art scene is a new 13-metre tall mural created by Melbourne-based artist Chuck Mayfield, along with Ballarat street artist Cax One. The colourful wall of art, which represents different aspects of Ballarat’s history, can be found on Field Street.

Other highlights include the Main Road Mural and Hop Queen by Ballarat artist Travis Price. You can also pop by the Visitor Information Centre and pick up a self-guided walking map to discover the full 120-piece public art collection.

Soak up fresh country air

From the 1930s to the 1960s, Carranballac’s historic Mooramong Estate was owned by actress Claire Adams and her millionaire Australian husband, Donald ‘Scobie’ MacKinnon.

Today, you can stay on the estate’s grounds in a tiny home named after characters portrayed by Adams in silent films.

Keep your outdoor adventure going by taking in the sights of Lal Lal Falls, or sign up for a winter truffle hunt at Black Cat Truffles by Liam Downes (pictured).

Learn a rare trade

The Australian Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades is focused on preserving Australia’s rare arts and trades by giving people a space to learn these skills. Time spent here is rewarding and transformative and provides a deeper connection to where we’ve come from.

The autumn and winter workshop calendars are filled with classes that will thrill the curious and reward the inquisitive. Organic basket making, locksmithing, decorating leadlight windows, tapestry weaving, natural dyeing, paper cutting, armouring and traditional signwriting are just some of the skills and trades you can discover.

Shop ‘til you drop

Take a piece of Ballarat away with you from one of the city’s unique shops and boutiques. Top picks include Hattie and the Wolf, Saltbush Kitchen and Sweet Fern fragrance boutique. You can also pick up a new winter scarf at Creswick Woollen Mills

Meanwhile, Windflower is a thoughtfullydesigned evolution of a traditional homewares and floristry offering. The team here also hosts art exhibitions and intimate workshops.

For book lovers, a visit to Collins Booksellers on Lydiard is a must. Spread over several heritage shopfronts, it has the largest range of books in town.

If vintage is more your speed, stop by Rocket and Belle or head to the Ballarat Vintage and Collectables Market to browse more than 80 stalls under the one roof.

Master a new cooking skill

Learn traditional cooking skills at permaculture farm and cooking school Village Dreaming

Facilitator Mara Ripani, who likes to say she ‘inherited her food culture from her Italian parents’, shares her love of cooking, sustainable living and togetherness in every class she holds.

Class topics include bread making, homemade pasta making, edible weed feasts, wild fungi hunts, fermenting, preserving and cheesemaking.

Carboni’s Cooking Masterclasses are another way to improve your kitchen skills. Packed with pasta knowledge, these hands-on classes are always followed by a shared lunch.

Bliss out at a day spa

Upon arriving at Ballarat’s Sanctuary Day Spa, you immediately feel a sense of peace. With your life stresses left at the door, it’s over to the attentive team of skilled therapists to take you on a luxurious journey of relaxation.

With an extensive list of treatments, suitable for one, two or a group, you’ll be blissfully taken from treatment to treatment, with a soak in the hydrotherapy pool a must. Finish with refreshments in the relaxation lounge and leave restored, remade and ready to face the world.

Image: Matt Dunne

Image: Kate Berry

Image: Tony Evans

Image: Tony Evans

Throwback thrills:

History, but not as you know it

Ballarat’s iconic Victorian architecture serves as the backdrop for the return of the award-winning Ballarat Heritage Festival. However, it’s not just much-loved crowd favourites that are back this year. The aweinspiring 10-day celebration features an assortment of new additions set to captivate festivalgoers.

Among the highlights of this year’s program is the vibrant performance of Parrwang Lifts the Sky, making its debut on Wadawurrung Country.

Based on an original Wadawurrung creation story, this all-ages opera tells the story of how Parrwang the magpie helped lift the blanket of darkness on the land to create the first dawn.

For Yorta Yorta woman and acclaimed soprano and composer Deborah Cheetham Fraillon AO, there is no more fulfilling experience than to have her work performed on Wadawurrung Country as previously told to many generations of children.

Sung in English and Wadawurrung, the opera features costume and set designs created in partnership with Wadawurrung artists Deanne Gilson and Billy O’Toole.

Now in its fourth year, Craft Lab returns to the Ballarat Mining Exchange with 17 practitioners – from weavers and metalworkers to ceramicists, jewellers and more – who will share their knowledge, expertise, techniques (and trade secrets) with visitors.

For a fully immersive artisan experience, The Great Takeaway is an exclusively tailored dinner that provides guests with the opportunity to dine among some of the finest materials, textiles, glassware, and ceramics produced in the Ballarat region – and diners can take home the handcrafted dinner setting with them at the end of the evening.

Food-lovers can experience an unexpected takeover of Sovereign Hill with their Heritage Harvest Weekend (25-26 May). The two-day festival celebrates all things harvest – from growing seasonal produce and preserving it, to using the results of these age-old practices to create food for the everyday family table. There’s also a feast of produce at the market, demonstrations and masterclasses with notable foodies like Great Australian Bake Off judge, chef and author Darren Purchese, plus family entertainment and kids’ activities.

Cap off festival evenings by savouring globally-renowned outdoor video installation Monuments by Australian artist Craig Walsh. Moving images projected onto trees represent a haunting synergy between the human form and the natural environment with subjects depicted drawn from Ballarat’s recent and not-so-recent past.

Ballarat Heritage Festival

17-26 May

ballaratheritagefestival.com.au

Parrwang Lifts the Sky is brought to you by Victorian Opera in association with Short Black Opera and Melbourne Conservatorium of Music, The University of Melbourne. Image: Jorge de Arujo.

Unyoked, Pyrenees