City Palate September October 2019 by City Palate

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O F C A L G A RY â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S S I N C E 19 9 3

F O O D

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the harvest issue

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SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

GATHER

AROUND TRUE ITALIAN LEGENDS

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table of contents

CITY PALATE SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

16 23

FEATURES Truffière: Hunting for Culinary Gold BJ Oudman

Where the Wild Things Are Shelley Boettcher

DEPARTMENTS

WORD OF MOUTH Notable culinary happenings around town

EAT THIS What to eat in September and October Ellen Kelly

Ruby Totally new, this is not the

couverture you’re used to tasting

CA CA O

• Naturally pink • Creamy fresh berry flavours with sweet and tart notes • No colours or fruit flavours added • Colour and flavours derived entirely from the ruby cocoa bean

10 12 14

GET THIS Eat, Drink and Serve in Style Wanda Baker ONE TECHNIQUE Braising Julie Van Rosendaal THE SUNDAY PROJECT Braised Bison Short Rib Gnocchi Erin Lawrence DRINK THIS Hail Caesar! Camie Leard 3 QUICK WAYS WITH... Plums Chris Halpin

STOCKPOT Stirrings Around Calagry

BACK BURNER... SHEWCHUK ON SIMMER Mais. Non! Allan Shewchuk

COVER ARTIST: Cole Degenstein is a freelance illustrator and recent graduate from Alberta University of the Arts with a passion for comics and print. In his spare time he self publishes comics and anthologies, his karaoke song of choice is You Oughta Know by Alanis Morissette, and he is a self-proclaimed baked goods connoisseur. If you’d like to see more of his work he can be found at @coledegenstein on Instagram.

READ US ONLINE AT CITYPALATE.CA

Delicious on its own but also Incredible when paired with: fresh fruits: lemon, lime, rhubarb, strawberries, raspberries dried fruits: cranberries, cherries, candied orange, candied ginger nuts and seeds: pistachios, almonds, macadamia, pepitas, popcorn cheese: camembert, marscapone, roquefort, Raspberry BellaVitano herbs: mint, safron, rosemary, basil spices: wasabi, ginger, sesame, curry, vanilla spirits: plum saké, sparkling rosé, gin, cognac, whisky beer: fruity beer, radler, sour ale, lambic

NOW AVAILABLE 23 g solid Ruby bar for tasting 300 g solid Ruby Ingot for making Ruby Raspberry Sea Salt Caramels for enjoying

chocolate together order online at www.rubycacao.ca or Uber Eats (Desserts) shop in person at select Cococo Chocolatiers Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut® stores

chocolate together

RUBYRU CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

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Title Sponsors:

editor Camie Leard (camie@citypalate.ca) publisher Kathy Richardier magazine design Nataly Gritsouk G Design (nataly@citypalate.ca)

contributing editor Kate Zimmerman

POINTS

JAMES SUCKLING

Happiness Never Tasted So Good

POINTS

JAMES SUCKLING

OCTOBER 18 & 19 Stampede Park BMO Centre

Tickets available at

for advertising enquiries,

account executives Ellen Kelly (ellen@citypalate.ca) Debbie Lambert (debbie@citypalate.ca)

With hundreds of sips and samples, be sure to gather the gang, grab a glass and join us for an indulgent experience at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival. @Rockymountainwineandfood

contributing photographers Camie Leard

please contact advertising@citypalate.ca

rockymountainwine.com

Get Your Early Bird tickets by September 6 and save!

@rockywinefood

contributors Wanda Baker Erin Lawrence Shelley Boettcher Chris Halpin Ellen Kelly Allan Shewchuk Julie Van Rosendaal

RMWFF

Please enjoy your beverages responsibly. Minors are not permitted. Sampling coupons required.

website management

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JAMES SUCKLING

Todd Robertson (todd@vilya.com) finance/business Jesse Fergstad (jesse@citypalate.ca) prepress/printing CentralWeb distribution Gallant Distribution Systems Inc.

Stasher bags:

Platinum silicone, plastic free bags for sous vide, oven, microwave & storage!

City Palate is published 6 times per year: January -February, March -April, May-June, July-August, September-October and November-December by City Palate Publishing Inc., Suite 419, 919 Centre St. NW, Calagry, AB T2E 2P9 Subscriptions are available for $48 per year within Canada and $68 per year outside Canada Editorial Enquiries: Please email camie@citypalate.ca

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word of mouth

Photos by Camie Leard

NOTABLE CULINARY HAPPENINGS AROUND TOWN IN OUR OPINION

MMMMarda Loop

Calling Local Food Lovers

What happens when a rancher decides to open a restaurant? Beautiful, fresh, quality food in a literal farm-totable experience; that’s what. Brant Lake Wagyu’s Michelle Ball saw an opportunity when the restaurant space at the Marda Loop Mercantile became available. With some of the world’s best beef at her fingertips and some past experience in hospitality she jumped at the chance to create [m]Eatery – a casual, café-style eatery offering all-day dining from delectable daily “toasts” through to lunchtime delights (try the burger!). You can even stay late for dinner (open until 8 p.m. on Fridays) to enjoy a Brant Lake charcuterie board and Chef Andrew Lowery’s excellent carbonara. [M]eatery charcuterie board

If you’ve ever been on one of Alberta Food Tours’ Calgary tours, you know the thought, care and craft that goes into creating an excellent culinary experience. Now, Karen Anderson and her team have put together an exciting new series called #EatAlbertaFirst. The first dinner, a beautiful honey-themed event Photo courtesy of Alberta Food Tours at Rouge sold out. Next on the roster is an immersive four-day, three-night jam-packed road trip to all the best places in Southern Alberta to Eat Alberta First! This stay and play Alberta “eatcation” will see you discovering the makers behind some of the province’s most delicious foods. You’ll meet cheesemakers, charcuteries, farmers, ranchers, chefs, and tourism’s most creative entrepreneurs. Learn more at indus.travel/tour/eat-alberta-first-road-trip/.

New Kid on the Block If you’re taking in 17th Ave. this fall, you may find your nose leads you to the corner of 17th and sixth where you’ll find Calgary’s latest barbecue hot spot in Comery Block. Jared Kichula, owner of Hayden Block in Kensington, brought his magic south of the Bow with Comery Block offering west-Tennessee-inspired barbecue and a whiskey menu of 150 that will have you calling an Uber to get home. Not only is the barbecue top notch (smoked 10-14 hours daily), but the trays round out the experience nicely – we loved the mac and cheese…we may have dreamed about that mac and cheese.

Read This Calgary culinary luminaries Karen Ralph and Gail Norton are preparing for the release of their new cookbook, Calgary Eats: Signature Recipes from the City’s Best Restaurants and Bars. The official launch party is at The Cookbook Company Cooks Sept. 17 where you can try the various dishes and speak with the chefs who created them. Tickets available at Cookbook Co. Cooks by calling (403) 265-6066. Then, find the book at fine bookstores everywhere.

Local landscape architect and University of Calgary professor Bev Sandalack has put her passion for food and travel into a self-published book called Recipes and Ramblings by a Girl From the Prairies. Filled with beautiful photos, drawings, stories and recipes, the publication goes way beyond the usual cookbook. Look for it at Owl’s Nest, Shelf Life Books, The Last Page, Knifewear and other local retailers.

Hot Chicken at Comery Block. You can have it mild, medium, hot, crazy or XXX

Cheers to these Sunnysiders Some people love building community. Other people love drinking. Thankfully, the founders of Sunny Cider, Sunnysiders (see what they did there?) Tim Kitchen, Darlene Kitchen and Dennis Scanland love both. Born from a desire to share the apple bounty falling on Sunnyside’s lawns each autumn, the team bought a small juicer to make cider and loan it to their neighbours to do the same. Tim says the neighbours didn’t take them up on it, but the three of them were hooked. One thing led to another and now Sunny Cider is serving crisp, locally-sourced cider from its location near Sunridge Mall (no space for those giant fermenting tanks in Sunnyside!). As a bonus, they’ll trade your fruit for cider so don’t let your crabapples languish unloved on your sidewalk this fall! Learn more about Sunny Cider’s fruit donation program at sunnycider.ca. Oh, and try the sour cherry apple cider – it’s exceptional.

Canadian wine world mourns wine and industry icon Tim Kitchen (l), Darlene Kitchen and Dennis Scanland of Sunny Cider

City Palate offers our most sincere condolences to the family and many friends Photo courtesy of Town Hall Brands of Harry McWatters who died July 23 at the age of 74. Perhaps best known as the founder of Sumac Ridge, McWatters became a Canadian wine icon over his 50-year career. He was a member of the Order of British Columbia, inductee to the BC Restaurant Hall of Fame, two-time Jubilee Medal winner from her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, and the recipient of an Honorary Doctor of Laws degree -with files from Leann Froese

Sunny Cider in apple, saskatoon and sour cherry

CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

Local. Unique. Convenient. FO O D & D R IN K

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Brown bag lunches don’t have to be bland and boring! Put some magic in midday meals this fall. We have recipes to inspire and all the ingredients you’ll need to make lunch worth looking forward to!

Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café. EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End

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Italiancentre.ca CALGARY Willow Park

eat this

by Ellen Kelly

WHAT TO EAT IN SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER Illustrations by Camie Leard

Nothing heralds autumn more compellingly than massive heaps of winter squashes combined with the heady scent of new apples. The markets become magical places when Demeter’s cornucopia is upturned, spilling the colourful and rich variety of the harvest everywhere you look. To find them at markets in all their diversity is a particular pleasure of mine that often follows me home. It makes for odd and awkward displays in an already crowded home, but who can resist a 40 lb. pink squash? Not I.

WINTER SQUASH Soups, stews, gnocchi and breads are obvious destinations for the bright orange flesh of most winter squashes. Don’t forget pies… pumpkins are squashes, too. Company-worthy ravioli can be made from well roasted squash (butternut is a good choice), mixed with a little grated parmesan, a little lemon zest, ricotta cheese, salt and pepper and a beaten egg to bind. Buy a package or two of won ton or gyoza wrappers at a favourite Asian grocery. Put a spoon of the mixture in the centre of one wrapper, moisten the edges with a finger dipped in water, then lay another on top. Gently force the air out from around the dome of puree and press to seal. Cut the ravioli slightly smaller with a round cookie cutter and lightly press again the edges with a fork. Cook them in lots of boiling salted water. When they float to the top, drain well and toss in browned butter with fresh sage. Serve hot.

TIPS: The average Halloween pumpkin is not usually suited for culinary use; the flesh is often watery and bland. If it’s your desire to turn the grotesque into the sublime, maybe consider using an unusually shaped and coloured squash to carve instead. BUY: Look for squash without blemishes and open cuts or dents. Heavier means thicker walls and smaller seed cavities, thus more dense flesh. For the biggest bang for your buck (and time spent), the butternut is my go-to squash. With a longish, thick neck and a small seed cavity at one end, this pinky beige fruit is easy to peel and yields a lot for its size. Keep at room temperature (or cooler) for 3 months or more. DID YOU KNOW? Squashes, especially the winter varieties, are thought of as vegetables, but are in fact fruits. They are related closely to melons and cucumbers, all members of the cucurbit family. One distinguishing, but not infallible, clue is that fruits have their seeds inside, although that leaves us with the conundrum of strawberries, but I digress…

APPLES Some may think it odd to look at apples as seasonal fruit since we have them year-round, kept in storage and imported from around the globe. However, I much prefer to enjoy the new local fruits, especially to eat out of hand, before they have languished in coolers for months. An apple pie might seem a little too predictable, but in my mind, this treatment from the much-revered Elizabeth Baird elevates the classic. Start with a favourite pastry recipe, enough for a two-crust 10” pie. In a saucepan, combine 1 c. brown sugar, ¼ c. flour, and ¼ t. salt. Stir in ¾ c. water and 1 t. apple cider vinegar. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly until the sauce is thick and smooth, then remove from the heat and add 2 T. butter and 1 t. vanilla. Line the pie plate with untrimmed

TIPS: Apples (and many other fruits and vegetables) give off ethylene gas as they ripen; bruised, damaged and over-ripe fruits tend to emit even more. I try to keep apples in a separate crisper (often wrapped individually in newspaper to keep them separate from each other) to prolong the life of their neighbours. Tart, thick-skinned varieties keep well, while the sweet, thin-skinned apples have a much shorter shelf life. BUY: Choose apples that smell fresh, even a little winey; avoid any with a musty or fermented pong. As with many fruits, pick apples that are heavy in the hand. DID YOU KNOW? Johnny Appleseed was not a fiction. He was born John Chapman in Massachusetts in 1775. A well-known eccentric, he collected uncounted seeds from cideries and travelled far and wide, planting them wherever he went.

pastry and fill with 8 c. peeled, cored and sliced apples. Pour the caramel sauce over the apples and sprinkle a scant ½ t. Maldon salt over the top. Cover with the rest of the rolled pastry and seal and crimp as usual. Cut 6 vents for steam, brush with cream or milk and sprinkle with sugar. Bake at 425 for 15 minutes; reduce heat to 350; bake another 30 minutes until the fruit is easily pierced with a sharp knife and the crust is a golden brown. Lovely served warm, topped with good vanilla ice cream.

Ellen Kelly has written about food, among other culinary pursuits, for years and is a regular contributor to City Palate.

CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

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CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

get this

by Wanda Baker

EAT, DRINK AND SERVE IN STYLE

Cocktails in a box Making cocktails at home used to be a daunting task. Finding a recipe, preparing a shopping list, driving all over the city to locate obscure and unusual cocktail ingredients, then trying to figure out how to create said cocktails using unknown tools and techniques was almost enough to make one abandon the task altogether. This is why Chris Morrell and Jennifer Simmonds started Crafty Cocktails, a monthly cocktail subscription service. Subscribe online and receive a new themed cocktail kit each month that includes three recipe cards and all the ingredients required to make your cocktails, except the spirits themselves – you get to choose your favourites. Let the at-home cocktail-making sessions begin!

Comfort food in a bowl A bowl of hot pasta is one of those comfort foods that hugs you, especially when cooler weather arrives. Alberta-based Pasta Time specializes in filled, frozen pasta and fresh-cut pasta without the addition of preservatives or additives. Using only a few ingredients, its tortellini is frozen within 15 minutes of being made. Filling options vary but include beef, chicken, wild mushroom and veal. We cooked up a batch of beef tortellini and combined the pasta with our favourite tomato sauce. We served it immediately, topped with fresh black pepper and freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Delicious! All the ingredients to make this dish are available at The Italian Centre.

Pasta Time Tortellini, The Italian Centre Calgary, $7.29

Monthly Cocktail Kit, Crafty Cocktails Canada, $50.00 - $85.00

Dinners made easy School’s back in session, summer vacation is officially over and fall activities are ramping up, leaving us looking for easy dinners that we can get on the table quickly. Well-known for its sausages, Spolumbo’s Fine Foods is now offering a line of “Heat n’ Eat” meals, along with a few sides like flatbread pizzas, spreads and salad bowls. These Italian ready-made family dinners are sure to satisfy any picky eater. Try Mamma’s lasagna, crepe cannelloni, stuffed red peppers, or meatballs in marinara sauce, all precooked in an oven-safe package, requiring only heating at home. Spolumbo’s partnership with Calgary Co-op allows easier access to the food items we know and love. Look for its new kiosk, featuring deli sandwiches and hot items to go, inside the Westhills Co-op store, with future expansion to other locations in the works.

Heat ‘n’ Eat take-home meals, Spolumbo’s Fine Foods, $6.00 - $16.00

Move over coconut oil, there’s a new kid in town Coconut continues to be a popular and versatile ingredient that everyone wants to like due to its health benefits. Full of fiber, essential vitamins and minerals, it is most popular in daily cooking, although other uses include beauty regimens. The popularity of organic coconut butter is slowly gaining momentum as an alternative to store-bought non-dairy products. It’s important to note that this is not coconut oil, which is extracted from coconut; it’s butter, made from the coconut meat. Making coconut butter at Light Cellar involves slowly grinding full-fat coconut flakes over a period of seven days, which creates a smooth, luxurious and creamy product. This process retains all of the healthy fats, trace minerals, and heat-sensitive antioxidants in the coconut butter. Use it as an instant coconut milk by mixing a few tablespoons of gently melted coconut butter with 16 oz. of pure water or coconut water, and blend. It’s also good added to sauces, soups, curries, chocolates, cakes, raw treats and even in your morning coffee.

Stoneground Coconut Butter, Light Cellar, $18.00

Treat yourself A new serving platter is always on my list of wants. I can never have too many, and I think they make the perfect gift, if only for myself. These lovely oval platters from Portugal are available in two sizes and in a handful of colours. Every artisanal platter is handcrafted, making each one unique, ensuring no two platters are the same. Once formed, the stoneware is glazed and finished with subtle hand-antiquing on the freeform rim. These platters are good for daily use, microwave-safe, oven-safe up to 300°F and can go into the dishwasher. Pick one up just in time to serve your favourite oven-cooked meal or Thanksgiving dinner.

Marin Oval Serving Platters, Crate and Barrel, $44.95 - $64.95

From mild to wild This delicious array of unique jellies started with Denny and Tracey Siebel, the husbandand-wife team behind Kranks Gourmet, and their love of spicy food, and well, jelly. With headquarters in Strathmore, Alberta, they’ve created a dozen small-batch artisanal jellies, ranging from mild to wild flavours. Love your spice? Give the apple pie pepper, cranberry sage, habanero, ghost pepper, or Carolina reaper jellies a go. Less adventurous palates will want to try bourbon cherry, beer jelly, coffee jelly or red wine jelly. All you need is a little cream cheese on a cracker or toasted baguette slice, topped with your favourite Kranks Gourmet jelly. Or take it up a notch and pair your jelly with charcuterie, crepes, waffles, ice cream – even grilled meats.

Kranks Gourmet, Bite Grocer & Eatery, Luc’s European Meats, Marda Loop Mercantile, Heritage Park, $9.29

Wanda Baker is a Calgary food writer and author of bakersbeans.ca who writes about life, adventure and food.

CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

one technique

BRAISING

Story and photos by Julie Van Rosendaal

There are a few cooking techniques that are so fundamental and useful, everyone should be comfortable with them. Braising is one of the most basic and versatile cooking methods—one that requires very little effort, not much in the way of technique, and allows liquid and the heat of the oven (or stovetop) to do all the work. Braising is essentially what you do when you use a slow cooker— it’s a low, slow cooking method that utilizes liquid both as a heat conduit and to keep things from drying out. Although tougher cuts of beef, pork and lamb — think shanks, shoulder and ribs — are often the focus of braised dishes, you can also braise beans, vegetables and even fruit, which require a far shorter cooking time. A few hours in the oven gives the connective tissues in cheaper cuts of meat a chance to break down, making it fork-tender and far more flavourful than most quick-cooking cuts. Although most slow cooker fans love being able to toss everything in and turn the unit on, typically, braised meats are quickly browned first. Because the Maillard reaction (browning) can’t occur in the presence of liquid — it requires a higher temperature — lamb shanks, short ribs, pork shoulder and beef chuck are ideally browned in a hot pan before the liquid is added. One of my most used pans is an enamel-coated cast iron braiser — a wide, shallow pan that’s almost a skillet, with a tight-fitting lid the same depth as the bottom. You don’t need a special braising pan, though if you have something that can go from stovetop to oven, you can take advantage of all those flavourful browned bits in the bottom of the pan. After browning, adding liquid (stock, tomatoes, beer and wine are common, but the process is well-suited to experimentation) will loosen those browned bits — and though recipes may specify a quantity, aim for the liquid to come about halfway up the side of the meat. (This ensures it won’t cook off entirely, but will produce a more concentrated sauce at the end.) Meat will toughen before it softens — if it’s not tender enough to pull apart with a fork, return it to the oven until it is. Vegetables require far less time, of course — if you have multiple elements combined in one dish, like a pot roast you want to cook along with carrots and potatoes, let the meat braise for a couple of hours first before adding vegetables for the last half hour or so, to prevent them from getting too soft.

Cream-braised Leeks and Beans Braised leeks is a classic French dish, as is simmered beans — and the two happen to go very well together. Soak and simmer dry beans ahead of time, if you like, or start with a well-drained can of white kidney or navy beans.

4-6 thin leeks olive or canola oil, for cooking 2 T. butter salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste 1 c. cooked or canned, drained white kidney or navy beans 1-2 sprigs thyme 1 c. heavy (whipping) cream 1/3 c. freshly-grated Parmesan cheese Preheat the oven to 400˚F. Trim the root and dark-green ends from the leeks and cut in half lengthwise. Set a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat, add a drizzle of oil and place the leeks cut-side up in the skillet. Cook for a minute or two, until golden on the bottom, then add the butter to the pan and turn them over so that they’re lying cut side down

in a single layer. Season with salt and pepper. Spread the beans over the leeks, pull the leaves off the thyme sprigs and sprinkle them over top, and pour over the cream. Bake for 20 minutes, until the leeks are very tender. Sprinkle with Parmesan and return to the oven for another 5 minutes, until bubbly and golden. Serves 4-6.

Braised Caramel Pork Pork shoulder is often braised in stock, tomatoes or beer, but it’s divine cooked in caramel, with coconut water, fish sauce and aromatics like shallots, chilies and garlic. Serve it with steamed rice, topped with green onions.

3/4 c. sugar 1/3 c. fish sauce canola oil, for cooking 2 lb boneless pork shoulder, cut into large chunks salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 shallots or 1/4 purple onion, thinly sliced or chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 Thai bird’s eye chilies or 1 jalapeño, seeded and minced pinch red chili flakes 1-2 c. coconut water

CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

steamed rice, for serving chopped green onions, for serving In a medium saucepan set over medium-high heat, cook the sugar with about 2 Tbsp water, swirling the pan often, until it turns the colour of maple syrup. Remove from heat and stir in the fish sauce. If the caramel solidifies, keep stirring until it melts again. Preheat the oven to 300°F. Drizzle some oil into a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, season the pork with salt and pepper and brown the meat on all sides. Transfer to a plate and add the shallots, garlic and chilies to the pot; cook for a minute or two. Return the pork to the pot, add the caramel and enough coconut water to go about halfway up the side of the meat. Cover and cook for 3 hours, or until very tender. Remove the lid, turn the heat up to 400˚F and cook for another 20 minutes, or until the exposed tops of the pieces turn golden. Serve with steamed rice. Serves 6.

Braised Red Cabbage with Cherries Red cabbage cooks down to a sweetsavoury-tangy side that keeps well in the fridge, can be served warm, at room temperature or cold, and goes well with all kinds of roasted meats, from turkey to pork.

2 T. butter 1 small red cabbage, cored and thinly sliced 1/2 c. dried cherries 1/4 c. red wine (or apple juice) 2 T. apple cider vinegar 1/4 c. apple juice or water 1/4 c. honey 1 cinnamon stick salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Preheat the oven to 325˚F. Melt the butter in an ovenproof pot or Dutch oven set over medium heat. When the foaming subsides, add the remaining ingredients and cook until warmed through, then cover and braise for 1-1/2 to 2 hours, until the cabbage has cooked down and the liquid has thickened a bit. Taste and add a little more honey and/or vinegar as you like, to suit your taste (or a splash of apple juice or water if it needs a bit more liquid), and bake a little longer or simmer on the stovetop with the lid off, if you want to cook it down a bit.

Serve immediately or cool and refrigerate until you’re ready to rewarm it on the stovetop or in the microwave — the flavour will improve after a day or two in the fridge. Serves 6-8.

Braised Beef Short Ribs with Lentils Beef short ribs are almost square, with flat bones — the meat will shrink as it cooks, but will wind up meltingly tender.

olive or canola oil, for cooking 8 beef or bison short ribs salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 small carrot, chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 T. balsamic vinegar 2-3 c. beef, chicken or vegetable stock 2-3 sprigs fresh thyme 1/3 c. dry French lentils Preheat the oven to 300˚F. Heat a drizzle of oil in a heavy ovenproof pot or Dutch oven set over medium-high heat. Season the ribs with salt and pepper and brown on all sides, transferring them to a plate. Add the carrot and garlic to the pan and cook for a few minutes. Add the balsamic vinegar and cook for a minute, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Return the browned ribs to the pan, add enough stock to come about halfway up the sides of the ribs. Cover and

2 c. red wine 3 c. chicken, beef or vegetable stock 2 T. tomato paste 1-2 sprigs rosemary or thyme 1 bay leaf braise for 2 hours. Add the lentils, and a little more stock, if needed, so there’s enough to generously cover them. Cover and return to the oven for another 30 minutes, or until the lentils are tender and the meat is very tender. Serves 4-6.

Braised Lamb Shanks Shanks are best when braised, and are ideal for feeding a group — it requires the same amount of time to braise one shank as to braise ten, so you can put as many as you have people to feed into the oven and forget it for a few hours. Plan for mashed potatoes or polenta to catch all the saucy drips.

The Ultimate In Refined Living

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Season the lamb shanks with salt and pepper. Heat a drizzle of oil in an ovenproof pot or Dutch oven set over medium-high heat and brown the lamb on all sides, working in batches if you need to so you don’t crowd the pan. Transfer to a plate and sauté the onion, carrots and garlic for a few minutes, until softened. Return the lamb shanks to the pan, add the wine, stock, tomato paste, rosemary and bay leaf — the liquid should come about halfway up the sides of the meat. Cover and braise for 3 hours, or until the meat is very tender. Skim any excess fat from the surface and, if you like, remove the shanks and reduce the cooking liquid on the stovetop until it thickens to your liking — you could even purée it with a hand-held blender, if that appeals. Serve the shanks and sauce with mashed potatoes or polenta to catch the sauce. Serves 4-6.

4-6 lamb shanks salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste olive or canola oil, for cooking 1 onion, peeled and chopped 2330 and Fish chopped Creek Blvd S.W. Calgary, Alberta | Phone: (403) 460-3771 2 carrots, peeled 3 garlic cloves, crushed or left whole

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the sunday project

BRAISED BISON SHORT RIB GNOCCHI Story and photos by Erin Lawrence

Sundays are the perfect time to get comfy in the kitchen with a multistep recipe that will be as rewarding for the chef as it will be for the diners. A hearty local bison dinner like this one is perfect for enjoying with a glass of red wine. The recipe comes to us from Chef Cole Glendinning of Flower & Wolf at the Sheraton Suites Calgary Eau Claire. He took time away from his busy contemporary kitchen to show me how to make this luscious and multi-layered meal, where everything is done from scratch. ’00’ flour can be found at most Italian markets, while the Calgary Farmer’s Market is the place to source bison short ribs and veal stock (you can substitute low sodium beef broth if you can’t locate veal). If you’re having trouble finding the diverse array of mushrooms in this dish, check out Asian groceries, like A-mart or T & T. You can easily prepare the mushrooms in advance, as well as the parsnip purée, and your bison will need to marinate, so plan ahead. The bison and the fluffy, pillowy gnocchi are best done day-of, though you can do them in advance and freeze them until you need them.

Pour everything over the seared ribs, making sure the ribs are well covered with liquid. Cover loosely with a piece of parchment paper and then wrap aluminum foil over top and seal the edges. Cook in the oven for a minimum of 4 hours, or until fork-tender. Make sure to reserve the short rib jus.

Roasted Mushrooms: Ingredients: 2 portobello mushrooms 6 crimini mushrooms 6 shiitake mushrooms 6 oyster mushrooms 1 T. olive oil 1 garlic clove, chopped salt and pepper Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Cut all the mushrooms into bite-sized pieces that are all roughly the same size. Toss them with olive oil and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Put them in to roast for 8 minutes.

Brown Butter Parsnip Purée Ingredients: Chef Cole Glendinning

Braised Bison Short Rib Gnocchi, Brown Butter Parsnip Purée, Roasted Mushrooms Makes 8 portions

Gnocchi: Ingredients: 18-20 oz. Kennebec Potatoes, whole 100g ’00’ flour 1 egg 1/4 t. salt 2 oz. parmesan cheese, shredded Method:

1 lb. parsnips Approximately 2 cups milk, or enough to cover parsnips 1 sprig thyme 6-8 peppercorns 1/4 lb. butter 1 t. sherry vinegar 1/2 t. kosher salt Method:

Peel, and chop the parsnips, then place them in a deep saucepan in enough milk to cover them, approximately 2 cups. Add the thyme and peppercorns and bring to a low boil, then simmer on low, until mushy, approximately 20-25 minutes. Strain off the milk and reserve. Brown the butter by cooking it in a small pot over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the solids become well-browned and very fragrant. Remove from heat and stir

Roast potatoes in oven at 350 F. for 45 minutes or until soft and cooked through. Peel the skins from the potatoes and pass the rest through a food mill or tamis screen. You want 18 oz. of milled potatoes, so start with a bit more potato than you think you need. Add flour, eggs, salt and parmesan. Mix lightly into a dough. Roll into thin logs and cut into 1-inch pieces. Transfer onto a lightly floured tray. (You can freeze them at this point.) Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Put gnocchi in, and cook until they float, then skim them off. Toss them with a small amount of olive oil and let cool on a tray.

Bison Short Ribs: Ingredients: 2 lb. bison short ribs 2 sprigs thyme 1 t. peppercorns 2 bay leaves 4 c. red wine, or enough to cover 1 onion, roughly chopped 1 carrot, roughly chopped 2 celery stalks roughly chopped 4 c. veal stock (or enough to cover) salt and pepper to taste

Gnocchi ready for the pot

Braised bison shortribs

Browning gnocchi and mushrooms

Plating with parsnip puree

Method:

Put the thyme, peppercorn and bay leaves in a sachet (tied up in cheese cloth), then marinate the ribs in the red wine and herbs in a large pot or Tupperware in the refrigerator, for a minimum of 8 hours, and a maximum of 24 hours. Preheat the oven to 325 F. Remove the ribs from the marinade, but keep the liquid. Season ribs with salt and pepper and sear well using a deep pot or braising pan. Put the wine and thyme, peppercorn and bay leaf mixture in a pot and bring to a simmer. Let the wine cook out for abut 20-30 minutes, skimming any impurities from the top as it simmers. In the same pot you used to sear the ribs, brown the onion, carrot and celery. Add the veal stock and bring to a simmer. Add the reduced and clarified red wine to the vegetables.

CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

in sherry vinegar. Purée in blender until smooth, season as needed with kosher salt. If you need to thin out the purée, add some of the reserved milk.

Pickled Mushrooms: Ingredients: 6 oz. shimeji mushrooms 1/2 t. peppercorns 1/2 t. chili flakes 1 bay leaf 1 t. yellow mustard seeds 3/4 c. white vinegar 3/4 c. water 1 t. sugar 1 t. salt Method:

Put all the spices in a cheesecloth sachet. Place the remaining ingredients, except mushrooms, in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Add the salt. Clean the mushrooms. Pour the hot pickling liquid over the cleaned mushrooms. Make sure the mushrooms are submerged, and allow to cool.

To finish and assemble the dish: Ingredients: 1 tbsp. olive oil 1 shallot, finely diced 1 garlic clove, minced 1/4 c. short rib braising jus 1 sprig thyme, finely chopped 2 T. pecorino or parmesan cheese, finely grated Zest of one lemon Sea salt Method:

In a large, heavy-bottomed sauté pan, sauté the shallots over medium heat until crisp. Using the same pan, add the gnocchi, and sauté until you get them crisp, with a nice brown colour, then remove them from the pan. Pull apart the braised short ribs. Add the garlic and roasted mushrooms to the same sauté pan, and then the short ribs and braising jus. Simmer the mixture over medium heat until everything is warm. Add the thyme. Warm the parsnip purée in a small saucepan or gently in the microwave .

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To plate the dish, add a good heaping spoonful of the parsnip purée, then place the warm gnocchi on the parsnip purée. Add the short rib meat and pickled mushrooms. Drizzle with a bit of the residual braising jus, then top with finely grated cheese. Finish with zest of lemon and sea salt.

Ready to eat Erin is a Calgary communications professional, journalist, and freelance writer who loves food, technology and travel. Find her online at ErinLYYC.com or on Twitter @TVChick1313

(403) 454-2550 136 2nd STREET SW info@minassteakhouse.com www.minassteakhouse.coM

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CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

drink this

Photos and story by Camie Leard

HAIL CAESAR!

City Palate marries the classic with the contemporary and pairs mixologists with craft distillers for a Caesar cocktail competition

John Fairholm and Confluence Distillery John Fairholm is an award-winning mixologist who serves at Confluence Distillery in the Manchester district. Jamie Hilland, also of Confluence, says the Vinland Aquavit Fairholm used is made in the Swedish tradition, adding fennel to the typical dill and caraway botanicals.

The Cocktail: The Vegan Dill Aquavit Caesar Salt blend: 100g salt 25 g dill weed 25 g celery Vegan worcestershire: 100 ml apple cider vinegar 50 ml soy sauce 1 t. dried mustard 1 t. all spice powder 1 t. garlic powder 1 t. onion powder 1/2 t. cinnamon pinch black pepper (powdered not fresh ground) 3 T. vegan sugar The Mixologists and Distillers (l to r): Keith Robinson, Wildlife Distillery; Diego Hazan, Hy’s Steakhouse; Gus Hay, Burwood Distillery; London Richard, Sorso Lounge; John Fairholm, Confluence Distillery; Justin JD Darnes, Vingate Group (Judge), Jamie Hilland, Confluence Distillery, Russell Fergstad, SnoDay Vodka. Missing: Jonathan Regnier, Shelter Cocktail Bar.

Add all ingredients to a saucepan and put it on low heat. Stir constantly until the sauce begins to simmer. Once it simmers, pull the pan off the heat and let sit for 10 minutes. Transfer to a food-safe storage container and keep refrigerated until use.

Since its invention by Calgary bartender Walter Chell in 1969, the Caesar has become a Canadian legend and the unofficial emperor of brunch. Garnishes have gone over the top and back to basics, and every self-respecting Canadian has an opinion about where to get the best Caesar.

Caesar ingredients:

In celebration of half a century of celery-salted rims and clamato concoctions, City Palate paired some of the area’s best mixologists with cutting-edge craft distillers for a Caesar competition at the classic Hy’s Steakhouse. The Host: Barb Steen, general manager, has been with Hy’s for 31 years and hosted the competition at the restaurant’s home in the Core shopping centre. Referencing a gorgeous “history wall” full of old photos, advertisements and newspaper clippings near the bar, Steen said Hy’s has been a part of Calgary’s culinary scene since 1955. The Judge: Justin “JD” Darnes is head of creative mixology for the Vintage Group. Darnes’ cocktail expertise has been honed throughout a globe-spanning career in mixology, which includes a stint at the oft-touted “best cocktail bar in the world,” Savoy American Bar in London.

The Teams

Jonathan Regnier and SnoDay Vodka Shelter Cocktail Bar’s newest mixologist, Jonathan Regnier, was paired with another newcomer: SnoDay Spirits of Bragg Creek. SnoDay’s Russel Fergstad says his vodka brings an exceptionally smooth experience. “It’s wheat-based, silky smooth with a buttery finish that’s great for sipping,” he said.

The Cocktail: The Smoky SnoDay Caesar 1.25 oz. SnoDay vodka 0.5 oz. mezcal 0.5 oz. lemon juice 2 dashes of Cholula hot sauce 1 dash of chipotle Float with clamato juice

Pinch of salt blend 1 oz. aquavit 1/4 oz. pickle juice 3 dashes Worcestershire sauce 1 dash Tabasco sauce 6 oz. Walter Vegan Caesar Mix Rim 1/2 glass with salt blend, then fill glass with ice. Add all ingredients and stir well. Garnish with 1/2 dill pickle. Judge’s Comments: This spirit was the stand-out for me and was the best product. The botanicals in the Vinland Aquavit worked well in the Caesar, adding extra flavours.

London Richard and Wild Life Distillery London Richard of Sorso Lounge and Espresso Bar in Airdrie won the best Caesar in Town competition at the 2017 Calgary Stampede. Keith Robinson of Wild Life Distillery says the gin Richard used is made with 70 per cent wheat and 30 per cent malt barley aged in oak barrels.

The Cocktail: The Hawaiian Tiki Caesar

Rim is equal parts pink salt, celery salt and chili powder Garnish with pickled poblano and spicy serrano with a salty blue corn taco chip

2 oz. barrel-aged Wild Life gin ¾ oz. freshly squeezed lime juice ¾ oz. Maui Worcestershire ½ oz. Hawaiian sesame soy sauce ½ oz. pineapple jerk sauce 2 bar-spoons apple and ham-fat puree 1 dash (less than1/8th oz.) of mulberry hot sauce 3 oz. clamato juice Torched cinnamon

Judge’s Comments: Jonathan’s presentation was excellent, he was calm, likeable and the kind of bartender you want to spend time with. The Caesar was quite spicy and I wasn’t sure if the smoke was coming from the mezcal or the chipotle.

For the rim: Honey on the rim of the glass Celery salt Alea volcanic red salt

CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

Smoked paprika Smoked applewood Roasted coconut flakes Serve in a fun tiki glass, garnished with a Hawaiian poke bowl. Judge’s Comments: When I saw everything going into this cocktail I thought, “There’s no way that’s going to work.” Yet, it worked.

Diego Hazan and Burwood Distillery Diego Hazan hails from Argentina and served as a bartender on cruise ships for many years before docking at Hy’s two years ago. Gus Hay is the chief distiller at Burwood Distillery and was recruited from Scotland, where he ran the Glenlivet Distillery. He says Burwood’s vodka has a unique, smooth, malty personality and is made with single-malt barley.

The Cocktail: The Classic Caesar Home-made clamato juice 2 oz. clam juice 2 oz. tomato juice 1 oz. chicken broth 1/2 oz. lemon juice 1/2 oz. simple syrup Spice: 1/2 bar spoon celery salt 1/2 bar spoon of paprika 1 bar spoon of HY’s Cajun Style 1/2 bar spoon of Sambal red chili sauce 1/2 bar spoon of Tabasco Spice sauce: 2 oz. of HP Sauce 1 oz. of creamed horseradish 1 oz. of Lea & Perrins Worcestershire 1 oz. celery salt Rim: Lemon pepper spice Celery salt Hy’s Cajun-style seasoned salt White sugar 1 oz. Burwood Craft Vodka Float home-made clamato juice Stir in spice mix ¾ oz. of spice sauce Garnish with Cajun-seared, bacon-wrapped scallop Judge’s Comments: This was the most classic of all the entries. The home-made clamato was very good.

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THE WINNER: London Richard’s Hawaiian Tiki Caesar with Wild Life Barrel-Aged Gin.

“The effort that went into this Caesar really paid off. I love that he sent the Caesar around the world and tapped into the Tiki trend that’s happening now. He took it to a whole new level,” said judge JD Darnes. The next time you’re enjoying brunch, we invite you to raise a glass to the mighty Caesar – curer of hangovers, vehicle for vegetables and an excellent source of vodka…or gin…or aquavit….

Camie Leard is the editor of City Palate and a Caesar aficionado.

Quality meats, natural spices and old-World recipes. That’s authentic Italian.

CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

Mention truffles and most people think of fancy chocolate treats. But the truffle belonging to the fungi family, whether found in the wild or in a cultivated forest, is even more valuable. Found by whom? Nowadays, mainly by canines. A few pot-bellied pigs have been trained to hunt and are restrained enough not to devour their finds, one being Annabelle at Below the Nut Farm on Vancouver Island, who prefers dried chick peas to the fungi as her reward. For the most part, though, dogs are preferred to harvest truffles, both in the wild and on truffle farms or truffières. Dogs are not only easier to transport, but more discreet than a pig to take for a walk in a forest. Secrecy is important in protecting this valuable commodity to prevent “rakers” from trespassing and indiscriminately harvesting a patch. Rakers tend to blend in unripe, poor quality truffles (which are lower priced) and disturb the fungi’s ecological habitat. So how does one go about training a dog to hunt for the elusive prize? Like gourmands, these dogs are motivated by food: find a truffle, get a treat. While the Italian Lagotto Romagnolo breed is the standard for the job due to its highly developed nose, almost any dog can be trained to hunt truffles. I attended the Oregon Truffle Festival (OTF) in Eugene, Oregon in January to witness breeds from poodles to pointers, labs, shepherds, a Boston terrier and even a hound dog being put through the drills. There, I got the run-down from dog trainers Bob and Deb Walker of K9-Behavior Company in Wilbur, Oregon, OTF founders Leslie Scott and Dr. Charles Lefevre, and trainers Kristin Lipzieg and Jim Sanford. The OTF was launched in 2006, with the goal of increasing the quality and value of local truffles to compete with European imports by being ground zero 16

CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

for dog training. It has increased in scope to celebrate all things truffle, attracting everyone from mycologists (scientists who study fungi) to farmers to foodies. The OTF hosts the Joriad (North American truffle dog championship) as well as a two-day dog training session.

HOW TO TRAIN A TRUFFLE DOG The younger a dog starts, the better, but if the trainer follows the proper steps, he or she can train a dog of any age. The critical underlying skill for both dog and trainer is establishing a marker. A consistent connection must be made between the dog performing a desired activity and positive reinforcement from the trainer – immediate acknowledgement with a verbal “yes” or an auditory signal from a hand-held clicker, followed by a treat. If there’s any lapse of time, training is unlikely to be successful, because the dog will not understand exactly

what he is being rewarded for. No distracting petting or belly rubs are allowed – only the treat! With truffles as the goal, the first step is to imprint and enforce the truffle scent by repeatedly bringing a truffle-oil-soaked cotton ball to the dog’s nose. The second step is to teach the dog to keep its nose down, the opposite of usual dog-training practice, where sniffing everything en route is discouraged. From these basics, training involves increasingly difficult searches for a target (a tiny piece of truffle in a plastic capsule). At first, the scent is hidden from the dog’s direct line of vision. The next step is to cover the scent so that the dog must find something that’s not visible, and the last is to bury the scent, requiring the dog to dig for it. The second phase of training moves the team of dog and owner outside into the woods, still using targets. The final step requires a location where the existence of live truffles is pretty much guaranteed. All the practice is put into action with fingers crossed that the fourlegged student is more interested in hunting for culinary gold than for a squirrel. The OTF founders and trainers, are passionate about the opportunities and economic feasibility of the truffle business. Patience is required, as a planted tree cannot be expected to produce for seven to eight years, but people I met were excited, investing money to buy suitable land in California to British Columbia to build their truffière and of course, train their dogs.

Truffle hunting has a long history. In medieval times, truffles were a poor-man’s food, used to elevate the flavour of basic meals. Peasants in Europe tending the land for aristocrats first discovered these aromatic black nuggets when their sows would go wild when they found one. The truffle, you see, releases the same pheromone found in boar saliva . Landowners soon caught on and took the truffles for their own feasts. As demand increased and trufflehunting became a sport, aristocrats used the pig’s penchant for the fungi to root out the truffles, with the prize going to the owner of the swiftest swine to produce a prized nugget.

GETTING TO THE OREGON TRUFFLE FESTIVAL The next Truffle Festival takes place on three weekends between Jan. 23 and February 16, 2020; check the web site oregontrufflefestival.org for details. WestJet offers a daily direct flight from Calgary to Portland.

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BJ is a career traveller but is considering settling down with a dog and farming truffles.

CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

3 quick ways

by Chris Halpin

PLUMS Photos by Camie Leard

While many varieties of plums fill the farmer’s market stalls this fall, there are only two basic types of commercially cultivated plums: The Japanese plum, which is round, soft-fleshed and juicy, and the European plum, which is oval, firm and richly flavoured. At this time of year, it’s easy to find all sorts of locally grown small-harvest plums in all sorts of wonderful varieties you won’t find at any other time of the year. My favourite place to explore is DJ Market.

Charred Fortune Plums and Halloumi with Black Pepper Balsamic Drizzle Grilled halloumi cheese is gooey and crispy, all at the same time. Pair it with a peppery, sweet, smoky plum, and wow! I am using gorgeous fortune plums here. To make the balsamic syrup: Mix together in a saucepan, 1 c. balsamic vinegar, 1 c. sugar, 4 black pepper corns and 1 bay leaf and place the pan over high heat. Stir until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture has come to a rolling boil. Boil rapidly for 2 minutes, stirring from time to time. Remove from heat and let cool before using. This can be made ahead of time and will keep for at least six months in the fridge. To make cheese and plums: Halve and pit 2 plums, sprinkle a pinch each of sugar and salt on the flesh side, then liberally grind black pepper over this. Cut 2 half-inch-thick pieces of halloumi. Place a large pan over medium-high heat and let it get very hot. Don’t add any type of oil or butter to this pan. To the hot, dry pan, add the halloumi and place the plums cut-side down in the same pan. When the cheese has become crispy and brown, flip it over and brown the other side.

While you are waiting for the cheese, arrange some arugula on two salad plates. Once the cheese is crispy on both sides, place in the centre of each plate, then arrange the charred plums. Finally, drizzle with the balsamic syrup. Serves 2.

Pork Chop Braised with Black Plums and Green Olives

place in the oven for 25 to 30 minutes. At about the 20-minute mark, baste the tops of the pork and return to the oven until the chops look crispy and a little charred. Serve hot.

Italian Plum Frangipane Frangipane is an Italian almond torte that has some sort of stone fruit baked into it. Here is my fuss-free version with plums. Preheat the oven to 375°. To make the crust: In a small bowl add 1 egg yolk (keep the egg white in reserve for the filling), 1 t. cider vinegar, 2 T. water, then whisk to incorporate; set aside for later. In a food processor, add 1½ c. flour, ½ c. sugar and a pinch of salt, pulse to mix, then add ¾ c. unsalted butter, cut into cubes. Start to blend, and when the mixture is looking crumbly, add the yolk mixture and continue to blend until it starts to form a ball of dough. Press the dough into a 10-inch torte form with fluted edges and a separate bottom. If you don’t have one of these, then use a pie plate. I find it easiest to first press the dough up the edges and then press the remaining dough on the bottom. Once you have an evenly pressed crust, put this in the fridge to chill the pastry while you are making the filling. To make the filling: In the same food processor bowl that you used for the pastry, put ½ soft unsalted butter, ¾ c. sugar, 1 c. almond flour, and 1 t. dried ginger and pulse until well-mixed and crumbly. Then add 2 eggs, plus 1 egg white and ½ t. vanilla and process until smooth. Remove the chilled crust from the fridge and pour the filling into it. Halve 6 Italian plums and arrange them on top of the filling, domed side up. Generously sprinkle 2 T. sugar over the top and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the centre is firm and the tops looks evenly browned. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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Fried Halloumi and Plums Ulster Weavers apron $27.95, Mepal cirqula bowl $21.95, Garnier Thiebaut tea towel $29.95

CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

This is a wonderful, easy, autumnal braise. As it cooks at a very high temperature, I can have my pork done medium and crispy and also braised. It’s perfect with a creamy polenta. To make the marinade: To a bowl add ½ c. red wine vinegar, ½ c. brine juice from green Spanish olives, 1 c. brown sugar, and whisk to dissolve the sugar. Place 2 pork chops in a casserole dish and pour the marinade over them. Place in the fridge for 1 to 4 hours. To braise the pork: Preheat the oven to 400°. Remove the pork from the fridge and arrange 3 black plums cut into quarters, 1 c. drained green Spanish olives, packed in brine, ½ c. rough chopped cilantro, and pepper to taste. Mix to evenly coat everything and

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Beautiful kitchenware provided by Savour Fine Foods and Kitchenware in Inglewood savourfinefoods.com Chris Halpin has been teaching Calgarians to make fast, fun urban food since 1997 and is the owner of Manna Catering Service. mannaonline.com.

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CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

stockpot

STIRRINGS AROUND CALGARY

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CHEESE AND BEER Cheese and Beer with A Match Made in Heaven! The Grizzly Paw invites you to join its brand ambassador on select Saturdays for a tour of the brewery followed by a beer-and-cheese pairing. An elevated version of the regular brewery tour, this event gives you the chance to discover unique cheeses paired specifically to bring out the flavours in a variety of brews. Upcoming dates include: Saturday, Sept 7; Saturday, Sept. 21; Saturday, October 12; Saturday, October 26. To reserve your place please call us 403.678.2487 ext #3 or visit thegrizzlypaw.com. 622 8 St., Canmore A SWEET HOW DO YOU DO

WEAR COMFORTABLE PANTS Happiness never tasted so good. The Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival, sponsored by Sobeys and Safeway Liquor, features samples from some of Calgary’s best restaurants and sips of amazing wines, spirits and beers from across the world Oct. 18 and 19 at the Stampede Park BMO Centre. Craving more? Visit rockymountainwine.com for tickets and info.

SAIT WELCOMES THE WORLD The Culinary Campus at SAIT in the School of Hospitality and Tourism, has been selected as the site for the 43rd Concours International des Jeunes Chefs (Young Chefs) Rôtisseurs Competition Sept. 20, 2019. The campus will also host the Canadian National Jeunes Chefs competition on Sept. 21. The SAIT School of Hospitality and Tourism’s Culinary Campus is perfectly suited to holding an event of this type. Featuring a full commercial kitchen with more than 10,000 sq. ft., the facility can easily accommodate the 20-plus international competitors expected over two shifts during the day of the competition. COUNTRY ROAD, TAKE ME HOME We all belong at Granary Road market, the latest fusion of upscale shopping and dining. With many unique shops and ethnically diverse, familyowned food vendors, there is something for everyone at Granary Road. From oven-fired pizza to Guatemalan cuisine, ethically-sourced vegan eats or freshbaked bread, Granary Road’s rustic market blended with an expansive active

learning park means it is a complete family experience. 226066 112 St. West, Foothills No. 31, AB

BLOOMING IN THE WEST The much-anticipated Flores & Pine has opened in Bearspaw. This new, elevated casual restaurant and event space is a celebration of the land and community. Flores and Pine pays homage to the legacy of Flores La Due, the inspirational “First Lady of the Calgary Stampede.” Bringing the former Bear’s Den back to life, Flores & Pine offers a new fresh look in the historic space, along with rustic contemporary Canadian cuisine led by Chef Rory McGouran. 254028 Bearspaw Rd.

TACOS AND MINI-GOLF? YEP! If you’re headed down to the Barley Belt for a brew, don’t miss a stop into Taiko Canteen, a 3000-sq.-ft. food market with rotating brewery taps and nine holes of Lucky Putt. Home to Taiko and Zilfords Fried Chicken (both of food-truck fame) Taiko’s Canteen is focused on making great food and making a difference. #107, 3851 Manchester Rd. S.E.

Cococo had such a great time meeting Calgary’s chocolate lovers at last year’s Doors Open YYC, that they’re doing it again this year. Learn about chocolate, taste chocolate, and tour Cococo’s hardworking Mayland Heights chocolate factory in an hour-long behindthe-scenes tour. Tour dates are Sept. 28 – 29, 2019. Sign up at doorsopenyyc. org. 2320 2 Ave. S.E.

INNOVATION ON THE PLATE Eat North’s Prairie Grid Dinner Series returns for its third year in celebration of culinary and creative talent from across Alberta, Saskatchewan and Manitoba. With a theme of “innovation,” the new line-up of chefs including Calgary’s own Scott Redekopp (Yellow Door Bistro) and Katelin Bland (Lulu Bar) along with Christine Sandford (Biera, Edmonton), Bryn Rawlyk (The Night Oven, Saskatoon) and Chris Gama (Clementine, Winnipeg) will create a five-course dinner that draws inspiration from the evolution of cooking techniques over the past century. Tickets and info at eatnorth.com and eventbrite.ca. Sept. 19, 6:30 p.m. - 10:30 p.m. Heritage Park, Gasoline Alley event hall. 1900 Heritage Dr. S.W.

LET’S PARTY! Canada’s Great Kitchen Party takes over the Telus Convention Centre for a prestigious evening celebrating Canadian excellence and providing young Canadians the opportunity to be extraordinary through sport, music and food. The chefs selected to compete this year are: Adam Ryan, The Coup; Darnell Japp, Rouge; Evan Robertson, MARKET; Jenny M. Kang, Bow Valley Ranche; Kenny Kaechele, WORKSHOP kitchen+culture; Matthias Fong, River Café; Michel Nop, Buffo; Roy Oh, Anju; Ryan Blackwell, Elbow Room and Quinn Staple, Yellow Door Bistro. Who will follow in Hawthorn Dining Room’s Chef Dave Bohati’s footsteps this year, to be the gold medalist and move on to represent Calgary in the finals in Ottawa? We can’t wait to find out. Tickets $375 at calgary@greatkitchenparty.com.

SUKIYAKI HOUSE Sukiyaki House is hosting a special Kaiseki dinner on September 7. Koji Kobayashi will be collaborating with his good friend from Kyoto, Tadashi Takayama. Takayama has worked in several Michelin Star restaurants and has also cultivated a huge Instagram following. We are excited to have this eight-course dinner along with sake pairings from Sake Gami and That’s Life Gourmet, along with tea pairings with Matsu Kaze tea. Pricing is $300 per guest including gratuity. For reservations please email info@sukiyakihouse.com. #130, 207 9 Ave. S.W.

FELICE ANNIVERSARIO! Italian Centre Shop is celebrating its 60th anniversary serving Albertans (and the Calgary store’s fourth year in Willow Park) on September 7. Join the team at the Willow Park location for samples, demos, entertainment and fundraiser BBQ on behalf of Brown Bagging 4 Calgary’s Kids. #120, 9919 Fairmount Dr. S.E.

SWEEEEEET! Sucre Patisserie has introduced its new line of choux pastries. These delightful cream puffs are carefully crafted with flaky pastry dough, filled with a unique custard and adorned with delicate icing. Each of Sucre’s minipastries are topped with a decorative chocolate, hazelnut, colorful merinque or other artful designs. Rotating flavors include lemon strawberry, chocolate, hazelnut, mango, blackberry, strawberry & cream, pistachio, matcha, salted

CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

WE HAVE A WINNER! Adila Saeed, of Adila Chocolaterie in Avenida Food Hall, recently won a silver award for best flavor combination at the International White Chocolate Awards in San Francisco. Saeed

says she was delighted to have the opportunity to share her talents in the competition, open to chocolate makers from around the globe and adjudicated by 10 judges. The challenge was to create artisanal chocolate flavours using only white chocolate. Saeed’s winning

combination was entitled Morning Burst and was made with orange, Kalansi lime ganache and rose petals. Her now internationally renowned Morning Burst chocolates can be purchased from her storefront in Avenida Food Hall or adilachocolaterie.com.

BOTTOMS UP Eau Claire Distillery launched its limited-edition Ploughman’s Rye this summer to the delight of whisky lovers everywhere. The first of its kind from Eau Claire, the Ploughman’s Rye Whisky is a nod to Alberta farm pioneers that has shaped the province’s agriculture. It’s an approachable, smooth sipping rye that can be enjoyed on its own or in your favourite brown-spirit cocktail. Find Ploughman’s Rye at the Eau Claire Distillery in Turner Valley, the Eau Claire Distillery booth at the Calgary Farmer’s Market and at select retailers throughout Alberta, including select Sobeys and Safeway’s, Calgary Coop Wine & Spirits, Kensington Wine Market, Bricks Wine Company, Willow Park, Highlander and others.

A SNOW DAY TO CELEBRATE! SnoDay launched its gin this summer and it’s awesome! SnoDay gin is crafted using select Canadian premium grain, citrus and a distinctive mix of botanicals. Distilling in small batches assures you of the highest purity and balance of flavors. This premium gin has pronounced citrus notes to compliment your favorite tonic or on-the-rocks. Celebrate this refreshing GIN and enjoy our “Find SnoDay gin wherever fine spirits are sold” at home or wherever fine spirits are sold.

COOKING CLASSES Downtown Culinary Campus: September 5 to October 5, Introduction to Cooking; September 14, Canning; September 20, Date Night; September 28, Artisan Bread; October 5, Viennoiserie; October 10, East Coast; October 17, Alsatian; October 19, Viennoiserie; October 21 to November 18, Intermediate Cooking; October 26, Artisan Bread; October 31, France. Main Campus: September 6, Date Night; September 7, Baking Cakes; September 10, Fish Cookery; September 11 to October 9, Introduction to Cooking; September 14, Viennoiserie; September 17, Vietnamese; September 17 to November 5: Introduction to Baking (Gr. 7-12), Introduction to Cooking (Gr. 7-12); September 21: Assorted Buns, Butter Cream Basics; September 24, Knife Skills; September 27, Sushi; October 1, Turkey Dinner; October 5, Cupcakes; October 8, Vegetarian; October 15, Herbs and Spices; October 15 to 31, Bar Mixology; October 18 to November 15, Cake Decorating; October 18, Date Night; October 19, Sausage Making; October 19 and 26, Introduction to Baking; October 22, Pasta; October 25, India, October 29, Cooking with Cheese. The Tastemarket by SAIT: October 4, Date Night.

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CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

hen my brother and I were kids, my dad loved to take us on what he’d call “roadside lunches.” We’d get up early and drive, sometimes for hours, on dusty, deserted gravel roads. We’d listen to the radio and we’d sing. Then, suddenly, he’d pull the truck over to the side of the road. He’d hop out and we’d be right behind him, climbing around trees and across mossy bogs. When he found a spot that looked right, he’d pull out his jack knife and a bag (or his hard hat, if he didn’t have a bag), and we would follow his lead. One day, maybe we’d pick wild strawberries. Another time, it would be saskatoons or cattail hearts or high-bush cranberries. We didn’t know it then, but we were learning the basics of foraging

— literally, the act of finding and harvesting edible wild plants. People have been foraging since the dawn of time, but today a new generation seeks to understand what grows around it and why it matters. Call it the Noma effect. The twoMichelin-starred Danish restaurant — led by chef Rene Redzepi — has been on the list of the world’s best restaurants for years, serving dishes made with hyper-regional wild ingredients such as reindeer moss, locally harvested ants (yes, ants) and even sea salt hand-harvested from the North Sea. A little closer to home, Julie Walker, owner of Full Circle Adventures, has been leading groups into the Alberta wilderness since 1987. She studied Alberta’s ecosystems, so she could teach people about the trees and plants along their forays.

“Then I started reading more about edible and medicinal plants,” she says. The more she learned, the more she wanted to know. She began incorporating the wild edibles — stinging nettles, wild violets, fireweed — into her own meals and soon brought that knowledge to her business. About three years ago, her wild edible hikes and walks really took off, and she now offers specialized tours for chefs and distillers. Paul Rogalski, chef and co-owner of Calgary’s Rouge restaurant, has long been interested in foraging. He says it isn’t something that you can easily do by yourself if you’re a beginner. “A lot of foraging is knowing what is and what isn’t edible. Some stuff is definitely not good for you,” Rogalski says. Continued on page 24

Photo courtecy of Paul Rogalski CITYPALATE.ca SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2019

10 BASIC RULES FOR FORAGING

Continued from page 23 That’s why he signed up for one of Walker’s excursions. “Julie’s groups have been a great opportunity for me to get outside and learn, as well as take people out with me and treat them to this great unveiling of local, regional, wild ingredients.” Rogalski got so into the experience, he’s now working on a TV pilot about wild foods with Les Stroud (Survivorman) and Edmonton forager and filmmaker Kevin Kossowan. And he says the experience

photo courtesy of Julie Walker

“I see real potential for knowing where our food comes from, in terms of our health and environment and water issues”

has boosted his own culinary knowledge, as he has learned what to do with the likes of fireweed and cow parsnips. “I’m cooking things I’ve never cooked before, and I’m learning an incredible amount,” he says. Rogalski notes that many of these regional foods are best when they first pop up after winter. By fall, they can be woody and past their prime. Fireweed, for instance, is wonderful sauteed when it’s just a few weeks old, he says, while the sweet cores from young cattails are delicious pickled or turned into fritters. “They’re amazing, more of a dessert than a savoury dish,” he says. “There’s a lot you can do with them and they’re really good.” Beyond just finding free food that tastes good, foraging brings us into nature and reconnects us with the natural world around us, Walker says. “I call it re-wilding yourself, reconnecting yourself to your landscape.” Down the road, she hopes more of us Albertans will plant wild edibles in our own yards. “I see real potential for knowing where our food comes from, in terms of our health and environment and water issues,” Walker says. “Growing wild food on a larger scale could help with those issues and feed us at the same time.” And harvesting those wild foods — as my dad and I know firsthand — is a nice way to bond, too.

1. Before you eat something, confirm that it’s actually edible. You don’t want to be the person who ate the poisonous mushrooms. Or fed them to someone else. 2. Go with someone you trust. You’ll gain confidence in your own abilities if you forage first with someone who’s experienced. 3. Learn what’s edible and when it’s edible. Not everything is good all year. 4. Don’t over-harvest. Leave enough for the plant to reproduce next year, and never take more than you’ll use. 5. Only harvest the part you’re going to eat. In other words, if you only need the blossom, don’t pull up the entire plant. 6. Don’t harvest rare or protected plants, even if they’re edible. 7. Plant wild edibles in your garden, so you help the species thrive. 8. Only forage healthy plants. 9. Don’t forage near busy roads; plants can absorb heavy metals from car exhaust. 10. Don’t forage on private land, unless you have permission.

Shelley Boettcher is a wine columnist for the Calgary Herald, the syndicated national wine columnist for CBC Radio’s morning weekend shows and the author of three books about wine. Follow her on Twitter @shelley_ wine and Instagram @shelleyboettcher

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Foraged Chanterelle mushrooms Photo by Paul Rogalski

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back burner shewchuk on simmer

Allan Shewchuk

MAIS. NON!

It’s harvest time again, and you know what that means: farmer’s markets with a cornucopia of fall vegetables, and dinner plates brightened by the colors of beets, squash and peppers. But for me, the best thing about autumn’s bounty is when the hot weather ends and the corn is harvested. Table manners be damned -- I’ll put loads of butter and salt on a cob and just go for it, elbows up. This is why, in the fall, I’m always on the lookout for one of the strangest phenomena of prairie life: the roadside corn truck.

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There are good reasons for my belief that these pop-up corn vendors are strange. The first is that they’re never manned by fresh-faced farmer’s kids or the grower him- or herself, but by guys who look like they just escaped from a prison farm and are too creepy to even get a job on a midway. These poor souls invariably wear ball caps that look like they were dipped in motor oil, and they usually sport home-made tattoos on their knuckles. There’s no cash box nor any sign of a receipt, and it kind-of makes me worry about whether they just pulled off a giant heist from a local field. Is there such a thing as a “corn rustle”? The second reason these makeshift stands are odd is that starting about a hundred meters from where the seller has pulled off the road, there’s a series of signs telling you that there’s corn up ahead. These aren’t notices manufactured by a sign shop. Rather, the hallmark of the “fresh corn” signs is that they’re usually just sheets of plywood, leaning precariously, which have been spray-painted freehand, frequently in bright red. The handwriting is almost illegible, and it’s not unusual for the “R” in “CORN” to be backwards, making the whole scene look like something out of a Stephen King novel. Maybe it’s my love for cobs, or maybe it’s just that I don’t want the stand guy to touch my produce with his tattooed knuckles, but I always end up buying a whole sack of corn, which makes my wife furious. She’s the kind of person who thinks family photos are “clutter” around our house, and so she’s constantly throwing out my overbuy of corn behind my back. Think of her as the Marie Kondo of the crisper. To stay ahead of my decluttering darling, I go through every recipe for corn under the sun, including everyone’s favourite harvest dish that I make: bacon and sweet corn risotto. But when I say “everyone’s favourite,” I’m only talking about Canadians, as I found out the hard way when living in Europe. I had been warned some years ago about serving corn in the EU by my chef pal Shelley Robinson, lately of Top Chef fame. She told me that one day, while doing a “stage” at a restaurant in France, she found it was her turn to choose and prepare the daily special. So she headed off to a local market, found some gorgeous ears of corn, and set about making a hearty corn chowder. She was proud of her effort until the chef de cuisine arrived, took one look at the pot of soup and yelled “You stoop-eed American! Corn is for the pig, not for the man!” and poured the chowder down the sink. I should have kept this in mind when I was living in Italy and invited an all-Italian group for dinner. I made my famous corn risotto, only to watch every guest meticulously pick each kernel of corn from the dish and set it aside. I learned that it’s a bad idea to show off one’s culinary skills while serving animal feed.

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I guess I don’t blame Europeans for being suspicious of corn. When Columbus first brought maize back from the Aztecs, he didn’t realize that those indigenous North Americans had figured out that their type of corn had to be soaked in water and ashes before it was consumed, otherwise it would actually cause malnutrition and, in some cases, dementia and a form of madness. I’m not sure whether eating too much modern-day Canadian corn could cause the same problems and scramble someone’s brain. But if the creepy dude running the roadside stand is consuming an overabundance of his own product, it would at least explain all that spray-painted writing on the plywood signs leading to the corn stand… Allan Shewchuk is a lawyer, food writer and sought-after Italian food and wine guru. He currently has kitchens in both Calgary and Florence, Italy, but will drink wine pretty much anywhere.

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