cuisine

The Rolls Royce of New Restaurants

New Polaris eatery has delicious food and celebrity approval

By Mallory Arnold

2021 BEST OF the ‘Bus Best New Restaurant, The Royce, opened July 3, 2020. In contrast to the classic saying “If you can’t take the heat, get out of the kitchen,” owner Walter Carpenter withstood stress, a pandemic, doubt and pressure when opening the new restaurant, so in the kitchen he stays.

“We opened up at an interesting time, when 99 percent of people told me, ‘Walter, don’t do it. Why would you do this right now?’” Carpenter says. “But I knew in my heart it was the right time and the right place.”

Carpenter has been in the restaurant industry for 30 years, working at the New Albany Country Club for six years and Cameron Mitchell Restaurants for about 20. Though he was part of developing awesome new Cameron Mitchell concepts, he always wanted to own his own place. Walter Carpenter Thus, the Royce, named after Carpenter's wife – program director of the Interpreter Education Program at Columbus State Community College – was born. “She’s very excited and happy about it,” Carpenter says. “I thought it would be wonderful to name my first restaurant after her because she’s done a wonderful job in her career and is an amazing wife.” He adds that many people advise against naming a restaurant after Table of food options, including Nola Baked Oysters, House Fries, Creole Seafood Rigatoni, Mushroom Risotto and Blueberry Gin Sour anyone but yourself, as you want people to know it’s your place. But to Car- collection. The selection is a combination penter, the name felt right. of fun throwback dishes along with unique tastes. One of Carpenter’s favorites is the Meals That Move You cornbread served with pepper jelly in lieu When putting together The Royce's of plain butter. menu, Carpenter and his team thought “It makes us dance and sing,” he says, of all the foods they loved over the years laughing. “I want to serve food people and brought them together in a cohesive crave and want to come back for.”

Patsy’s Peach Cobbler (When Walter was choosing what he wanted to offer on the menu, he knew he had to include his mother’s peach cobbler recipe)

As the owner, though, he can’t settle on just one favorite dish. Today, he might recommend the braised short rib with grits. Another afternoon, it might be the Gulf shrimp BLT sandwich.

“When I first talked to the chef when we were making the menu, I told him to add salt, a little bit of vinegar, some acid, but also to add nostalgia,” Carpenter says. “And add it so people feel like they’re taken back in time.”

He firmly believes a meal can draw you back into happiest of times and good memories. He’s seen this firsthand, when a woman from the South dined at the Royce and cried after tasting the peach cobbler. She said it reminded her so much of her own family’s peach cobbler from when she was a child.

That cobbler is a recipe from Carpenter’s mother. Carpenter’s family is from the South, so he grew up with those flavor profiles and knows how powerfully they can impact the soul. He’s also included his mom’s mac and cheese on the menu as well.

“When most people think about restaurants, they think about food and service – but how can you touch someone in a special way?” Carpenter says. “That’s what we’re trying to do here. I want to change how restaurants take care of people.” CS

Mallory Arnold is an editor. Feedback at marnold@cityscenemediagroup.com.

If Ya Smellllllllllll What the Royce is Cookin’

The Royce is officially the No. 1 distributor of Teremana Tequila, a brand founded by Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson.

“We make a lot of margaritas, and a lot of our drinks are tequila-based,” Carpenter says.

The most electrifying man in sports entertainment is expected to visit the Royce to congratulate it for being the most electrifying distributor.

Other fun drinks include Better with Thyme, the Charleston and Black Walnut Old Fashioned.

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