PANTRY Making Coriander

/ by Jonathan Ammons / photography by Eli Warren

Coriandrum sativum is one of the few herbs that also produces a spice. In most of the world, coriander refers to the seeds, the stems or the leaves of the plant. But, here in the states, we’ve adapted the Spanish term cilantro for the leaves and only call the seeds by their European name, coriander.

In a way, the nominal distinction makes sense. Coriander leaves and stems are an herb, and taste noticeably different than the dried seeds, which function as a spice. The leaves are bright and citrusy in flavor with a pungent aroma whereas the seeds have a deeper, bittersweet flavor, with notes of pepper and a floral nose.

One of the oldest common pantry spices, found in cave dwellings dating back to 5000 BC, you can find coriander in recipes from around the world. From Chinese to African cuisines, from curries to French desserts, the dried seeds are a secret weapon in accentuating subtle flavors in marinades, sautés and syrups.

Rather than buying dried coriander seeds from the store, try harvesting them from your own garden. Two or three weeks after the cilantro has flowered, you should see green seeds begin to form and then turn a nutty brown. Cut the stalks at the base, string them together and hang them in a cool, dry place above an opened paper bag, allowing the seeds to collect as they dry and fall on their own. Do not worry about preserving the dried leaves of the plant, as they lose their flavor once they flower.

When cooking with dried coriander, it is best to toast the seeds as pods in a dry frying pan before crushing them thoroughly in a mortar and pestle or running them through a spice grinder until they make a fine powder. I recommend storing the seeds whole, in an airtight container, toasting and grinding with each use. This allows you to store them for a longer period of time, maintaining the rich flavor.

The recipes share a common ingredient—whole fat Greek yogurt-- and if you buy a 24-ounce container, which several brands produce including Siggi’s, you’ll have the right amount for this dinner.

4 chicken breasts, bone-in/ skin-on 2 cups whole fat Greek yogurt 1 tsp coriander, toasted and crushed 1 tsp cumin 1 tsp cinnamon 1 tsp cardamom, ground 8-10 garlic cloves, whole 1 tsp paprika

Juice from 1 lemon ½ tsp salt 1 tsp black pepper

Method: In a large plastic bag, combine your chicken, yogurt, and spices. Seal and mix well so that every part of the chicken is covered. Allow it to sit overnight in the fridge and marinate.

On the day you intend to cook, bring your grill up to a steady 400 degrees. Remove the chicken from the bag, making sure not to scrape off any of that lovely marinade. Season with additional salt and pepper to taste.

When you go to lay the chicken on the grill, take care not to place it directly over the coals. You’ll want it to cook over indirect heat for the first 15-20 minutes. Flip and keep over indirect heat for another 10-15 minutes, keeping an eye on the poultry thermometer.

Once the chicken reaches 140 degrees, move to direct heat to char, and remove once it reaches an internal temperature of 150 degrees.

Cover and allow it to rest for several minutes before serving, this allows it to finish cooking without drying out the meat. Serve with rice and garnish with fresh parsley or cilantro. Harissa makes an excellent sauce accompaniment. For the Pakoras: Mix flour, spices, baking soda and the first cup and a half of water. Stir together to form the batter, being careful not to make the batter too firm, but also not to drippy. It may take some time adding flour and water until you find the right balance.

Add spinach, onions and chilis to the batter and mix until thoroughly coated.

In a suitable pan for frying, bring oil up to temperature (350 degrees). When the oil starts to bubble, add the battered pakora ingredients in small clusters. Tip: if you do not have a thermometer to meter the temperature, try adding a single popcorn kernel. When the kernel pops, you know that your oil is at a proper frying temperature.

Fry for 3-7 minutes, depending on the size of the pakora, flipping halfway through. They should be golden brown when finished. Use a slotted spoon to remove from oil.

Allow each cluster to dry on a paper towel or drying rack until they become crispy. Serve immediately with Raita.

For the Raita: Mix all ingredients together thoroughly in a bowl and serve.

For the Pakoras: 2 onions sliced 2 cups spinach sliced 2 cups chickpea flour 1 green chili pepper sliced 1½ cups water ¼ cup vegetable oil 1 tsp salt 1 tsp toasted and ground coriander 1 tsp cumin 1 tsp black pepper ½ tsp chili flakes ½ tsp chili powder ¼ teaspoon baking soda

For the Raita: 1 cup whole fat Greek yogurt 1 cup shredded cucumber 1 Tbsp chopped mint leaves 1 Tbsp chopped cilantro ½ tsp salt ½ tsp cumin ½ tsp toasted and ground coriander 1/8 Tbsp black pepper