Savour Life Magazine July 2012 Issue

Page 1

July 2012

Savour Life Taste: Seasonal Dishes from a Prairie Table Just Weeks Away from Hitting Bookstores Profile

OLIV Tasting Room August 4

Celebrate Food Day Canada


JULY ISSUE

Who We Are Publisher, Editor CJ Katz

3 Our Columnists 4 Editorial

Editorial Rob Dobson Mark Heise Theo Phillips Steve and Tracy Hurlburt

6 FEATURE OLIV Tasting Room in Saskatoon

Photography CJ Katz Tamara Klein iStockPhoto

8 SAVOURY BITES • Join in the Food Day Canada Celebration • Brears elected as CCFCC-Regina President • Twelve Grill at Greenbryre GCC • The Great Saskatchewan Mustard Festival is nearing. Mark your calendars. • And bits and bites, opening soon and more.

How to Reach Us Advertising cj.katz@sasktel.net

Mail 3706 Selinger Cr. Regina, SK S4V 2H1 (306) 761-2032 Savour Life Magazine is owned by CJ Katz. All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced by any means, in whole or in part, without the prior written consent of the publisher.

13 RECIPES Chilled Cucumber Apple and Mint Soup

Savour Life Magazine is available monthly.

14 WINE The Back Label: Take a Sip off the Beaten Path He Said, She Said Wine Review

Subscribe! Get the best of Saskatchewan food and drink every month direct to your in-box! Subscriptions are free. Drop me an e-mail at cj.katz@sasktel.net and I’ll sign you up!

19 BEER From Grain to Glass: Seasonal Summer Beers

Savour Life Magazine currently reaches more than 10,400 subscribers. We operate with a dedicated team of writers who work to bring you the best editorial every single month. 2


Rob Dobson – The Back Label Rob remembers the wine of his youth and laments the lack of exciting wine selections in SK. You can drop Rob a line anytime at savourlife-wine@hotmail.com.

Mark Heise – From Grain to Glass Mark shares the last of his summer beer picks to quench your thirst. You can reach Mark at mark.heise@alesclub.com.

Theo Phillips – Saskatoon Correspondent Theo paid a visit to the OLIV Tasting Room and a new Saskatoon restaurant, Twelve Grill. If you have a favorite spot you want noted, drop Theo a line at theophillips@sasktel.net.

Steve and Tracy Hurlburt - He Said, She Said Wine Review Our dynamic tasting duo is at it again! Agree? Disagree? Drop them an e-mail at: yumyum@myaccess.ca.

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~ Upcoming Cookbook TASTE: Seasonal Dishes from a Prairie Table

The Presses are Finally Humming! My first cookbook, TASTE: Seasonal Dishes from a Prairie Table has left the building. It’s now on the printing press being inked and rolled, printed and bound into 6,000 copies. I’m sure any author will tell you how nerve-wracking that can be. The pressure! Writing is one thing…. but selling? That’s quite another.

With pressure mounting to sell 6,000 copies (I’m worried that boxes and boxes full will become new end tables and footstools at my house!), I’m thrilled that the cookbook is already getting some fabulous endorsements. Culinary historian, noted author, and Member of the Order of Canada, Anita Stewart was given an advance copy and gave her stamp of approval by writing the forward to the book. James Chatto, one of Canada’s highest regarded food and wine writers was impressed. And Canada’s bestknown senator and former broadcaster, Pamela Wallin, sent us a glowing review.

The project was much more work than I really understood. Getting the manuscript to the publisher was just half the job. There was as much work after the book was sent to the publisher as I’d done pulling all the recipes and photos together. But, I was blessed with a terrific team. My publisher, the Canadian Plains Research Centre, made sure it all came together.

Here are some of the things they are saying:

In the end, the book will feature 120 recipes from The Wheatland Café, and numerous vignettes about the fabulous ingredients that we grow in this incredible province. And woven throughout is about 160 photographs that I snapped during my travels around Saskatchewan.

“This stunning book is a treasure trove of the tastes and temptations that the prairie soil brings to life each season. The colours are beyond the traditional prairie palette, and the recipes are a feast for the senses. This compendium is an inspiration to plant your garden, to take a walk through the 4


forests that cling to the sides of our highways, or to take to the kitchen with a new enthusiasm!” ~ Senator Pamela Wallin “Take a bumper harvest of lucid prairie recipes, fold them around personal anecdotes, local details and food lore, then garnish generously with CJ’s own glorious photographs: a fascinating portrait of Saskatchewan’s foodways emerges. What a delicious introduction to Canada’s heartland!” ~ James Chatto, Author, National Culinary Advisor for Gold Medal Plates Two kick-off book launches will be held in early September: one in Regina and one in Saskatoon. I’ll also be travelling to smaller centres to do book signings. We are just finalizing plans now and you’ll be getting an invitation soon!

Until September,

In the meantime, watch for TASTE: Seasonal Dishes from a Prairie Table ($29.95) on line at Amazon.ca and in Chapters, McNally Robinson, the Co-Op and Safeway stores by the end of the summer! 5


FEATURE

OLIV Tasting Room By Theo Phillips

Photo: Moose Jaw location

Modena, Italy similar to a pinot noir not being a burgundy unless from the correct area in eastern France. Twenty-five year old balsamics are also available along with the toiled white balsamic (while balsamics use hand-peeled grapes). Real extracts are used to infuse the flavour oils found in store. Try them to balance out your meal, drizzle on fruit or a salad. Some of the store favourites include mango, raspberry, fig, and garlic cilantro.

SASKATOON - Move over vegetable oil and plain vinegar. The OLIV Tasting Room (726 Broadway Ave) in YXE opened in March of 2012 with the goal of providing high quality products to change the way you think about olive oil and balsamic vinegar. This simple shop, the second to open in Saskatchewan (the first was in Moose Jaw) focuses on two products: olive oil and balsamic vinegar. There are over 85 different flavours from which to choose. Try mixing and matching. The combinations are endless. Bread is available daily to dip and taste.

The oil is an extra virgin olive oil. Some of the olives are sourced from the owners’ personal olive farm in South Africa in addition to areas such as California, the Mediterranean and Chile.

The base vinegar is an 18-year old Modena where the grapes have been boiled, reduced by 30% and then stored in oak wood barrels. The balsamic was born in

As explained by the Saskatoon store manager, Kim Schiman, “different soils and climate change the taste of the olive”. A 6


Moli Malichi-Benjamin tastes balsamic vinegar at OLIV Tasting Room in Moose Jaw.

more mature olive produces a more heat stable oil while a less mature olive would be best for a drizzle or other cold dishes. Their youngest oil is Olio Nouveau, which has a robust, grass-like flavour complimenting fresh greens or vegetables well. The Saskatoon store is one of four locations across North America. The first Saskatchewan store is in Moose Jaw. You will find the staff very knowledgeable at the Oliv Tasting Room. They will teach you the best way to test the Bonnie and Clyde of the food world and provide you with flavour combinations to satisfy any palette. More information and recipes are available on their website at www.olivtastingroom.com. Open Mon-Fri: 10-6; Sat: 10-5; Sun: closed.

Here’s an easy last minute supper idea. I made a quick supper and delicious burger for my husband and I with a portobello mushroom. Enjoy! ~Theo Marinate the portabello in balsamic vinegar, garlic and lemon juice for 20 minutes. Grill and serve with a fresh parsley aioli. 7


Food Day Canada is Aug 4th EVERYWHERE IN CANADA - August 4th is a day of celebration from coast to coast. No matter where you are… no matter what you’re doing, be sure to cook up a Canadian feast. Make it uniquely ‘Canada’ with ingredients sourced from anywhere in this great nation. Across the country Canadians will be taking part in a giant buffet that runs from the Atlantic to the Pacific, from Alert in Nunavut to the U.S. border. Whether you’re at a cabin in Algonquin Park, baling hay, fishing for walleye, or sitting around a campfire, make it Canadian. You can find out more at www.fooddaycanada.ca.

Food Day Canada is a chance for everyone to join together in one massive celebration in praise of our farmers and fishers, our chefs and researchers, and our home cooks.

In Saskatoon: Calories, Wezceria, and Prairie Harvest Café.

One restaurant that participated in the celebration in 2010 was RauDZ in Kelowna. Chef Rod Butters serves up some of the best regional cooking I’ve tasted. In 2010 he honoured the local, homegrown tomato for an entire month. The amuse bouche we were served that August evening when my husband and I dined there is the cover photo of this month’s issue.

If you’re not able to pull together your own celebration, visit these restaurants for a taste of Canada and the prairies. I’ll be in Ottawa, on the final day of my trip east on the 4th. My aunt Hanne is a fabulous cook and will no doubt be making some amazing smorgasbord with assorted salads and a mixed grill. We’ll make sure to add a few bottles of Canadian wine from the Niagara region to complement. I just might bake up a peach pie to round out the meal!

This year, select restaurants in Regina and Saskatoon are preparing special menus or dishes to serve that Saturday. Some of the participating restaurants include:

In Regina: Crave Kitchen + Wine Bar, The Bushwakker Brewpub, and the Hotel Saskatchewan.

However you decide to celebrate, make it delicious and make it Canadian!

8


Twelve Grill at the Greenbryre Golf Club

blooming beautifully on my plate. Potato and vegetable accompaniments were slightly overcooked but added a nice pop of colour.

SASKATOON - Located at the Greenbryre Golf Course in the deep southeast end of Saskatoon, Twelve Grill is one of Saskatoon’s newer restaurants. I was surprised when I entered the clubhouse to be greeted by a newly appointed dining room and lounge. While I didn’t have a reservation, a spot opened up on the patio to allow for panoramic views of the golf course. Unfortunately, heavy construction upstaged the view but did not spoil the experience.

Serving staff were new but spoke to the menu well and brought back feedback from the chef, if required. As the deck faces due west, my return visit may be to catch the last few hours of sunlight while being talked into the unique lobster poutine, which definitely caught my eye. Visit their website at www.twelvegrill.com. They are open Mon-Sat 10:30 am – 8:00 pm. Wed-Sat (reservations preferred). Sunday brunch from 10:00 am-2:00 pm.

Starters included escargot ($7), which is elusive on Saskatoon menus. The fat snails were cooked in a pesto cream and served with a side of puff pastry. A tangy Tomato Basil Bocconcini Salad ($8) followed. For the main course, I hopped between a

Mark Your Calendars for the Great Saskatchewan Mustard Festival REGINA – September 16, 2012 is the date for this year’s Great Saskatchewan Mustard Festival celebrating the thousands and thousands of acres of mustard grown here, making Canada the number one producer of mustard in the world. The event, which draws hundreds of people every year, will take place from 11 am – 4 pm on the deck of the Willow on Wascana. Talented chefs from Regina, Saskatoon and Prince Albert will be serving a diversity of dishes inspired by the province’s prowess in exporting mustard seed. The list this year involves Beer Bros. Bakery and Cuisine, Butcher’s Best, Cathedral Village Free House, Casino Regina, Crave Kitchen + Wine Bar, the Creek in Cathedral Bistro, the Deli Llama, Gordon Food Services (GFS), Gravelbourg Mustard, Knotted Thistle Pub, Jack Keaton’s BBQ and Grill, Lancaster

perfectly prepared Grilled Atlantic Salmon ($20) (pictured above), which was topped with a panko/seafood breading, and the Portabella Wellington ($17). Not a true ‘wellington,’ it was made by wrapping mushroom ragout inside layers of phyllo pastry and served with a tomato reduction. It was a work of art with the phyllo 9


Taphouse, Chef Moe Mathieu, The Fainting Goat, The Willow on Wascana, 13th Avenue Coffee House, Two by Dahlsjo and Sublime Catering, and Wallnuts Expressive Catering. Cost is $10 for all-you-can-eat but free if you just want to listen to music by Pile O’Bones Brass Band and paint with mustard in the children’s area. There will be a People’s Choice award for best food. that is fully dedicated to breads and pastries without gluten is strongly needed. Since she opened there has been a steady stream of people making their way to the shop. Drop in for the coffeecake or the flax bread or any of the fabulous pastries pictured above (front, Callebaut brownie; back, vanilla and chocolate cookies). And don’t leave without a latté, as the bakery also has a take-out espresso bar!

For more information go to www.sask.mustard.com, the Great Saskatchewan Mustard Festival on Facebook (2012 Great Saskatchewan Mustard Festival) or sign up for the Twitter account (GSKMustardFest).

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Brears Elected as CCFCC-Regina Prez

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REGINA – A new board has been elected to the Regina branch of the CCFCC and at the helm is Trent Brears, Executive Chef at the Legislative Building. Chairperson is Rob Harrison, Vice President Ian Boulter, Education Fred German, Membership Ryan German, Junior Liaison Fred German. Vacant positions are treasurer, and secretary.

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Kneaded Gluten Free Bakery Opens REGINA – Saskatchewan first no-gluten bakery – Kneaded Gluten Free Bakery – at 3725 Pasqua St, opened at the end of June. Owner Sarah Clemens is baking up 100% gluten free baked goods: breads, cakes, cookies, pizza dough, waffles and flatbreads. With more and more people being diagnosed as being celiac or with a gluten intolerance/sensitivity, a bakery

Opening Soon

10

REGINA – Bombay East Indian and Halal Restaurant will be opening soon on Albert St. in a former East Indian grocery store across from Slow Pub.

REGINA - The Naked Bean Espresso Bar and Café at 2505 Broad St in the


Canterbury Commons. Owner is Leanne Bohay. •

Sweet on Hamilton has opened. They are serving up a similar menu to their flagship store on Victoria Ave at Fresh & Sweet. They will also be serving crépes. They are located next to the TD Bank at the corner of 12th Avenue.

Bits and Bites •

REGINA – Congratulations to Executive Chef Milton Rebello of the Hotel Saskatchewan on obtaining his certified chef de cuisine certification. There were 16 chefs that competed at the same time as Chef Rebello and Chef Rebello was the only one in his class that received the certification! REGINA – La Bodega has started their film nights on their giant outdoor screen. Every Tuesday at dusk, beginning July 10 until winter arrives, they will be playing Saskatchewan-made films. REGINA - The Art Gallery of Regina will once again be holding their Feast for the Eyes benefit. This year it will be held on Saturday October 20 from 8-10 pm at St. Mary’s Church. Tickets are $40 in advance, $45 at the door. Call 522-5940.

Breast of Squab with Hazelnuts, Parsnip Puree, Wild Rice and Sundried Cherry Ragout Cherry-Jus Lobster and Scallop Globe with Lobster Hollandaise Pickled vegetables, Citrus Cracker, Butternut Squash and Green Pea Purees Slow Roasted Alberta Lamb Rack and Ash Rubbed Lamb Shoulder Roasted Barley-Mushroom Pilaf, Carrot Press, Root Vegetables, Celery Root Puree and Lamb Jus

Lavish Dinner a Culinary Experience SASKATOON – Culinary Team Canada will be in Saskatoon on July 14 at the Saskatoon Club presenting a 4-course meal leading up to their participation in the Culinary Olympics. This menu might just be the gold medal menu! They will be serving:

Lemon Honey Berry Meringue Cake Honey Berry Frozen Yogurt and Wine Berry Jelly, and Pistachio Berry Tuile Tickets are $150 each including tax and gratuity. Please call Trevor Robertson at (306) 667-2357. 11


Profiling Restaurants

Check Out These Restaurants • Ngoc Anh • Peg’s Kitchen • Wallnuts Expressive Catering • Magpie’s Kitchen • Daisy’s Pantry • Smokin’ Okies • Michi Sushi • Dessart • Kerganos • Italian Star Deli • Chef Jonathan Thauberger • Vintage Tea Room • Fresh & Sweet • Prairie Smoke & Spice • The Grotto • Chef Milton Rebello • Abstractions CafÊ • Last Mountain Coffee House

REGINA – In case you’ve missed the profiles I’ve been writing in the Regina Leader-Post, live under a log, or don’t read the local paper, I thought I’d give you a list of the places I’ve visited since March. Nearly all are local and in some cases, nearly local. You can read the column on the front page of the Arts & Life section every Wednesday. Bear in mind that these are profiles of restaurants and are places that I would feel comfortable visiting again and again. I don’t write about restaurants that I don’t think are worthy of a visit by my readers. To read the articles, go to the Taste Regina website at: www.tasteregina.com. Look for my articles under the “Lastest Reviews� section.

3FE -FOUJM 1PSSJEHF Because red lentils are so neutral in flavour, they can be added to most any dish and blend right in. This includes oatmeal. Try cooking them along with your old-fashioned oats to boost fibre and protein in your breakfast.

Ingredients t 1/4 cup (60 mL) dry split red lentils t 1 cup (250 mL) old fashioned (large flake) oats t 1/4 tsp. cinnamon t pinch salt t 1/3 cup (85 mL) raisins or other dried fruit (optional) t milk and brown sugar or maple syrup, for serving

Directions In a medium saucepan, cover the lentils with 1/2 cup water and bring to a simmer; cook for 5 minutes. Add the oats, cinnamon, salt and another 2 cups water; bring to a boil and cook for 5-7 minutes, stirring often, until the oats and lentils are tender and any excess moisture has been absorbed. Stir in the raisins and remove from heat. Let sit for 2-3 minutes, then serve hot, sprinkled or drizzled with brown sugar or maple syrup and milk. Serves 4.

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Chilled Cucumber, Apple and Mint Soup A quick and easy no-cook soup that is the perfect complement to the summer! This refreshing and tasty chilled soup is enhanced with a touch of cream and balanced by its yogurt base. Yield: 6 servings 2 English cucumbers (each about 12 oz/375 g) 2 Granny Smith apples or other tart apples, cut into chunks 1 tbsp (15 mL) finely chopped peeled gingerroot 20 fresh mint leaves 2 cups (500 mL) plain 2% yogurt ½ cup (125 mL) 35% whipping cream 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice 1 tsp (5 mL) salt 1/4 cup (60 mL) thinly sliced green onions

Stir soup to blend. Pour soup into chilled bowls and sprinkle sliced green onions over top as the garnish. Cooking Tips: You can use a hand-held immersion blender in a tall container to purée the soup instead of using an upright blender, though the soup won’t be as smooth. This soup stores well in the fridge for up to two to three days. Don’t be surprised if it separates a bit – just give it a quick stir before serving.

Using a vegetable peeler, peel the green skin off the cucumbers. Cut cucumbers in half lengthwise. Using a teaspoon scrape out all the seeds in the center. Discard seeds and skin. Cut cucumbers into chunks.

A Fun Dessert Idea! Give the traditional Eton Mess a modern twist.

In a blender, in batches as necessary, combine cucumber, apple, ginger and mint leaves and purée well. If necessary, stop the blender and scrape down ingredients to help purée until smooth.

This traditional English dessert consists of a mixture of strawberries, pieces of meringue and cream. It’s traditionally served at Eton College's annual cricket game against the students of Winchester College.

Add yogurt and cream and purée until the soup is homogenized. Add lemon juice and salt and purée to mix. Pour into a bowl, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, until chilled. Prior to serving, chill 6 serving bowls in the fridge.

Have a little fun with this dish and substitute rhubarb and whip cream for strawberries and cream. 13


The Back Label

Take a Sip off the Beaten Path By Rob Dobson, CWE

The folks from Artisan Wines in Alberta recently paid a visit to Regina to pour a sampling of some of the products from their portfolio. Consumers were able to try the products that were grouped in three separate areas: Sparkling Wine, Cognac and Spirits, New World Wines and Old World Wines.

interesting to watch if the Old World table attracted more tasters than the New World one. It appeared that, while some consumers had a clear preference for one or the other, the amount of attention at each table was pretty balanced. Two other thing that struck about Artisan's presentation were how many of the wines were one's that consumers in Saskatchewan don't often get to try and how knowledgeable Artisan's representatives were about their wines.

This rather creative approach kept us mindful of the similarities and differences of wines from these two general categories. I must admit that I did find the New World wines generally more fruitdriven while the Old World wines tended to be more austere and in a few cases noticeably more tannic. I found it

Most of these sip and browse-style of tastings involve being poured a taste with no information about the sample other 14


than its name. Artisan's reps made a point of explaining the wine's origin, the grape variety and some obscure or interesting fact that people wouldn't know about that wine. They were more than willing to answer questions and their infectious enthusiasm generated many questions from folks who might otherwise be intimidated by a wine they've never heard of. Artisan Wines gets a Back Label ‘Shout Out’ for a most excellent and educational presentation of their wines.

slightly spritzig. The flavours range from tart green apples and lemons to sweet grapefruit, but what sets it apart is a slightly bitter hazelnut finish. Verdicchio is a fine summer sipper and matches well to most seafood. Verdicchio dei Castelli de Jesi was traditionally bottled in bottles that are vaguely shaped like amphorae. However, Velenosi's version is more modern and is packaged in a Burgundyshaped bottle. Tasting this wine reminded me of the many bottles of Fazi Battaglia's Verdicchio that I consumed in my university days. It was not only a tasty, easy-drinking wine that came in a cool-shaped bottle with a tiny scroll dangling from the neck, but it was priced right for a student's budget. Sadly, when I went to the SLGA to pick up a few bottles, I was informed that it has been delisted for quite some time. Apparently consumers no longer buy obscure Old School wines with long names. They have been replaced by wines with hip labels and names like Red Bicyclette, Fat Bastard and Little Black Dress.

One of the Artisan wines that impressed me was a Velenosi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico. This is an Italian white from the Marche region. You can see by the name that it's not something that most consumers carry around in their memory banks. It's a lot more difficult to remember than "Little Penguin" or "Naked Grape". Velenosi is the producer, Verdicchio is the grape variety, Jesi is the town, Castelli means castle and Classico is a designation given to the highest quality wines from the DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata).

This makes me sad and a little angry that we don't have access to the many interesting and unusual wines out there. Our choices for white wines seem much dominated by Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling with a little

Verdicchio typically receives no barrel treatment and has a clear colour with green hues. It is a fresh, lively wine with moderate alcohol that sometimes may be 15


compelling pastime. Italy alone offers delicious and fascinating white wines made from Verdicchio, Garganega, Greco, Arneis, Grillo, Inzolia, Fiano, Cataratto, Cortese, Falanghina, Grechetto, Tocai Friulano, Vernaccia and my favorite, Vermentino. We need to find a away to get access to those wines.

Verdicchio Grapes

Pinot Gris or Gewurztraminer for the more adventurous. On the other hand, the SLGA has to operate as a business and if no one buys the Verdicchio they offer, then they can't be blamed for delisting it. So it becomes a vicious circle... Unless wine buyers have an opportunity to explore and learn about wines that are off the beaten path, they won't buy them. But if consumers won't support a product, it won't maintain a listing. Until we find a way to break this cycle, Saskatchewan wine drinkers will not get a chance to expand their experience and knowledge. This is frustrating because it is the awesome variety of wines to be discovered is what makes this such a 16


He Said, She Said Wine Review By Steve and Tracy Hurlburt

Would we get a different result this time? Was the Prosecco going to remind us of the “Champagne” served at many an overpriced New Year’s Eve party back in the 1980s? Let’s find out.

If you were to have asked me 10 or 15 years ago to name the white wine I enjoyed the least it would have taken about one second for the words “Pinot Grigio” to emerge from my mouth. Ok, maybe two seconds if I thought about it. Why was that? Did I hate Pinot Gris as a varietal? No, I didn’t. I quite liked how it tasted when made in France. Even more so, I liked the many examples from here in Canada or the Northwestern USA. So why did Italy’s interpretation of Pinot Gris, ‘Pinot Grigio’ draw my ire?

Mmmm

Acid, acid and even more acid. Oh yes, a complete lack of fruit to go along with the aforementioned acid. It didn’t matter who the producer was, whether it was $15 a bottle or $30 it all tasted the same. And when I made the mistake of trying another one (in the vain hope that it was different this time) I ended up with heartburn. So Tracy and I had trepidations when a bottle of Pinot Grigio along with a bottle of sparkling Prosecco appeared for us to review. 17

Yum Yum Scale Amazing stuff, legendary, cannot be missed!

Yum Yum!

Really good. Go buy some before we get it all.

Yum!

Good. Let’s have another glass.

OK but…

It’s alright but don’t we have a Yum wine in the fridge?

Blah!

Blah, humbug, underwhelming

Yuck!

Assault and battery of your taste buds and olfactory senses.


Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio 2011,

Santa Margherita (Nonvintage)

Alto Adige DOC, Italy 12.5% $19.99 per 750 ml (SLGA)

Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Brut, DOCG Italy 11.5% $22.64 per 750 ml (SLGA)

He said: “Clear in colour with just a hint of gold/green on the edges of the glass. The nose has almond, honeysuckle and mineral notes. The green fruit flavours are a bit muted and the mid palate is clearly missing in action but the mineral notes carry over from the nose through to the finish and the good (but by no means overpowering) acidity helps to leave you with an impression of the wine being well integrated and fresh. Light, and lip-smacking I actually enjoyed this Pinot Grigio and I think that it would match well with fresh grilled white fish or delicately seasoned chicken.” Rating: I can’t believe that I am saying this...... Yum!

She said: “Medium gold in colour. The mousse quickly dissipates to form a small stream of slow lazy bubbles. In true Prosecco style there isn’t the lively bubbles associated with many Champagnes and many other traditional champagne method sparklers. Don’t let appearances deceive you here though! On the palate this wine has a very lively initial intensity that speaks well to its carbonation. A delicate nose goes along with the bubbles. It’s very well balanced, integrated and refreshing, a great deck wine some hot night this summer. Apples on the finish with just the barest touch of residual sweetness makes it a delightful brut (but not a brute) in my mind” Rating: Yum!

She said: “Very light gold in colour. The bouquet consists of melon and minerals along with lots of butterscotch. A very appealing first impression. On the palate the flavours come across as being a bit diluted and the mid palate is too hollow. That said the relatively short finish is quite fresh and lively. All this wine needs is more intensity of fruit flavours and it would be a knockout. To end on a positive note, this wine would be a very good partner to many appetizers such as prosciutto and melon or grilled chicken/fish skewers.” Rating: Yum!

He said: “Light gold in colour. Small bubbles wander rim-ward in a soft stream. OK so far. A nose that is very tight at first hints at something different on the palate. Zounds! It isn’t sweet and sticky like many Proseccos. Rather it is dry but not too dry with good green fruit flavours here and surprisingly low acidity. A quite pleasing and delightfully bitter/tart finish that is very refreshing and tasty. Who knew? In my opinion this wine would be a better choice as a Champagne substitute than most Spanish Cavas or German Trockens.” Rating: Yum! 18


From Grain to Glass

Seasonal Summer Beers

By Mark Heise

I am writing this just after the incredible Canada Day long weekend. I have already hosted and attended several BBQs, and as a result, my personal stash of summer beers has been severely depleted, but thankfully I have a few more kegs of homebrew on deck, and I am also going to be stocking up on a few more summer seasonal beers that are about to be released. So without further adieu, I’m going to flog this summer beer theme for a third column in a row, with a focus on limited summer brews available in Saskatchewan.

“one off,” or have to wait until next year rolls around if it is a “seasonal.” Craft beer enthusiasts have certainly jumped on this bandwagon, and the breweries are only too happy to oblige with a regular schedule of interesting and unique releases. Seasonal beers are nothing new for the Bushwakker Brewpub in Regina, who always have five taps devoted to seasonal beers, ensuring there is always something new to try on every visit. They currently have the extremely limited Cyclone Barleywine available, a light and refreshing 10% beast of a beer that has been fortified with port and cognac. In my opinion, it is one of the best beers they have ever brewed. It may be sold out by the time this is published; if not, you have got to try this, even though it really isn’t weather appropriate.

One of the great things about craft beer is all the limited and seasonal beers that get released. There is always something new to try, and often in limited supply; you may only have one chance to buy some if it is a 19


However, for those truly looking to beat the heat, they will be offering the following over the summer; Kai’s Munich Helles (light malty German lager), Granny’s Bitter (light English bitter, and head brewer Mitch Dalrymple’s favourite summer libation), Honey Thistle Wit (Belgian wheat beer with secret spices), rotating fruit beers, Brunkdrunkymunkle (a dark German wheat beer, based on homebrewer Greg Zeniuk’s recipe) and finally, their Summer Wheat beer. The Bushwakker has added a “Now On Tap” section to their website at www.bushwakker.com, so you can see when all these great beers are available. I encourage you to sample as many as possible and find your own favourites. I am really looking forward to trying the Brunkdrunkymunkle; I drank the original homebrewed version while judging in Calgary and Regina, and it was absolutely sublime, winning Best of Show at both competitions.

Just released at the end of June is Yasigi, a Belgian wheat beer flavoured with hibiscus, giving it a beautiful pink hue and a hint of tart fruitiness. And coming soon is Arthur, a refreshing 4% English bitter/summer ale. All three beers are available at the brewery, and may show up at some of the better beer bars around the province. I haven’t had the chance to sample these beers yet, but Paddock Wood has been putting out some killer seasonals of late, so I expect the quality to be high.

About two weeks ago, I got a phone call from Mitch at 8 am on a Saturday morning, inviting me to come down and meet Greg while they were brewing; it’s not everyday you get that kind of a wake up call. Up in Saskatoon, Paddock Wood is brewing up a storm, keeping up with regular production, and also slipping in a trio of interesting summer releases.

Back in Regina, Brewsters Brewpub currently has an IPA available (based on a recipe developed by assistant brewer, and hophead extreme, Dave Holowaty), and should last until mid July. It is a balanced IPA, with American citrus hop flavour and malty caramel notes. It certainly isn’t as aggressive as the IPAs Dave and I brew at

Released earlier this summer, Sine Nomine (latin for “without name”), is a limited release 750ml, champagne-style 8% Belgian ale with clover flower extract. While higher in alcohol, it has delicate, complex flavours and is light in body (the Belgians refer to this as “digestible”). 20


home for personal consumption, but is still a satisfying pint, and a great introduction to the world of IPAs.

leave it at that and move on. In total, I count at least a dozen summer seasonal beers locally produced and available right here in Saskatchewan (with absolutely zero involvement from the SLGA I might add). As much as we sometimes complain about the beer situation here (see above paragraph), this is quite impressive for a market of our size. I always say it is better to celebrate and enjoy what we have, than to complain about what is missing.

Other seasonals about to be released are Watermelon Wheat Ale (the name says it all), and the return of Rig Pig Pale Ale, which I recall from last year as a very light and refreshing ale with more of those American citrus hops that folks seem to love these days. These beers are available at all three locations in Regina, both on tap and in take home bottles. I try to keep my columns upbeat and positive, and was hoping to recommend the summer seasonals available at the SLGA, but none seem to be there. The Samuel Adams Alpine SPRING Lager seasonal showed up in our “progressive” province at the beginning of June. This despite the fact that Sam Adams has a seasonal SUMMER Ale that has been available in just about every other jurisdiction across North America since early May. And we wonder why people still say Saskatchewan is behind the times? I spoke to the local agent about this, and they are certainly not to blame. Let’s

Cheers and enjoy your summer!

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