About
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Roisin Clear
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Caitlyn Fulton
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Rachelle Anderson
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Sophie Halstead
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Brinston Tchana
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Georgina Wasdall
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Accessible Fashion - Limitless Collection
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Therapeutic Fashion - Sadie Graham Mulvaney x Monika Dolbniak
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Editor, image maker, photographer & stylist Claire Thorn Models from Zebedee Talent in order along with interviews: Roisin Clear Caitlyn Fulton Rachelle Anderson Sophie Halstead Brinston Tchana Georgina Wasdall Sadie Graham Mulvaney
Front cover images: Models mentioned on left Front cover title design: Beatrix Azfar Special thanks to: Limitee Pr Alice Elizabeth Clarke Zebedee Talent Monika Dolbniak Irem Ar Leon Thorn
Every Body Zine has been created from the observing eyes of a sister of a brother who has Muscular Dystrophy. I will admit that for a long time I never really focused on disability and how and where it was being represented, or that it wasn’t really being represented or talked about at all. Barnes (2018, p.78) states that “Having a disability is something that makes you different, but not something that by itself makes you worse off because of that difference. Being disabled is simply something that makes you a minority - it is a way of having a minority body”. With about 2 billion people in the world with disabilities, ‘a minority body,’ doesn’t quite seem to make sense. Perfection and the idealised form is praised and strived for in society and anything that differs is brushed over the top of, leaving disabled people as often an afterthought. This can be seen countlessly in advertising, fashion media, clothing and accessibility. Most imagery for disabilities is either through charities to promote pity or are aimed towards the elderly. Being an avid reader of fashion and art publications the lack of disabled people is astonishing, granted there may be people with invisible disabilities, physical disabilities seem to want to be avoided. This also goes with the fear people have about talking or asking questions about disability. Due to the lack of representation and conversation around disability, it can feel uncomfortable to talk about. The most important part of this project for me was educating myself about disability by having open and honest conversations. I hope that by putting these conversations into this zine they will help to educate others but to also open up conversation further, whilst also providing an diverse and inclusive space for all bodies and readers.
Roisin is a Media and Journalism student with Cerebral Palsy signed to Zebedee agency, hoping to break down the barriers of disability within the media industry.
When were you diagnosed with Cerebral Palsy? 11 months after birth. You were part of BBC’s Children in Need Rickshaw Challenge, how was that experience? It was a great experience for me, I am so honored to be chosen for such an opportunity like the Rickshaw Challenge. It wasn’t great that we had to be sent home half way through of course, but I think that the fact we found a way to finish it even though we were cycling from home really showed the teams resilience.
as such, it’s just a different way of living – you learn to adapt to your circumstance. What I have found challenging though, is people’s perceptions of it. Sometimes people treat me differently, which is frustrating because I feel the same as everyone else. Same desires, passions, aspirations except I’m just sitting down haha, but all jokes aside, it can hurt sometimes.
Are there any charities that have been a big support to you over the years, or any that stand out due to the work they are doing for Cerebral Palsy or disabilities in general? Well, the school I went to when I was younger (and the one I was raising money for during the Rickshaw Challenge) is a charity called The Pace Centre – and that had a great impact on my ability when I was growing up – without their input I would not be where I am today nor the person. They work with children with motor disorders, predominantly Cerebral Palsy. What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given? ‘If people aren’t hurting you or themselves or others let them do as they please’. You’re a Media and Journalism student, what’s the biggest problem with the industry at the moment? The lack of representation for disabled people in the mainstream media is a big issue for me – I feel like there is a lot of disabled talent out there but sometimes it may get overlooked due to people’s biased perceptions. Although, being signed to a modelling agency such as Zebedee Talent is a clear sign that things are changing. What are your plans for the future? I’ve always said I’d love to be a spokesperson for those with disabilities – to be someone I would have looked up to when I was young. I plan to keep modelling, and I’m interested in becoming a journalist/presenter ideally. What challenges has Cerebral Palsy presented you with? The disability itself hasn’t been a problem for me
Dress & hat - Florentina Leitner
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What is something you want people to know about Cerebral Palsy? Well, I said a lot of it in the question above to be honest – but it’s always good to mention that Cerebral Palsy is also a spectrum, so it can affect people in a variety of ways. One person’s condition of CP can be very different to another’s. CP is a result of a brain hemorrhage, which is a lack of oxygen to the brain, a lot depends on the severity of this. So when meeting someone with CP, just be respectful and ask what their needs are before making assumptions. I know that automatically helping someone who you may perceive as in need comes from a good place, but for the sake of our independence it’s always good to ask unless you know what their because I love to talk about myself (I’m joking)! The real answer is that I’d much rather people be aware of needs are already. I’m sure that goes for many my abilities and limitations and get to know me and disabilities though. become a bit more informed, rather than be sat there wondering afraid to ask. I do love to talk about myself I think a lot of people sometimes are scared to though– I can talk for England, and ‘me’ is never a ask questions to someone in a wheelchair or with a disability. What would you say to them or topic I can seem to get enough of. any advice you would give? Honestly, just be respectful. No respectful question How would you describe your style? Eclectic, a mish-mash of colours and styles and will be a bad one and a lot of the time people will much better if I had a bit more money! #StudentLife answer openly. For example, I prefer to be asked
Shoes - Models own
Caitlyn is studying Commercial Music at university and is passionate about disabled rights, using this to become an ambassador at Whizzkidz.
Dress - Models own
You’re very active in community work, how did you become an ambassador at Whizzkidz? Whizzkidz are a UK disability charity supporting young wheelchair users to live fun, free and independent lives through services and equipment. I first became aware of the charity when they supplied me with mobility equipment when I was younger. I became an ambassador when I started to attend the Glasgow Kidz Club when I was in my early teens, it’s great to gain independence and meet other young people who are going through the same experiences of living with a disability. I have been heavily involved ever since and giving back, it’s such a brilliant organization. How can people get in touch with Whizzkidz? People can get in contact with Whizzkidz by emailing: info@whizz-kidz.org.uk, phoning or via their social media platforms: Facebook and Twitter: @Whizzkidz Instagram: @Whizzkidzuk You’re studying Commercial Music at university, when did you first discover your love for music and singing? Most young girls growing up in the mid 2000’s were an aspiring Hannah Montana wannabe or the next member of the Cheetah Girls and I was no different. Growing up with shows like these were certainly an influence, but I’ve always grown up listening to music and singing about the house which developed into a passion and has always stuck with me. As I’ve grown older singing has become my main outlet for dealing with my stammer as when I sing the words are completely fluent, it’s such a freeing feeling. Who are some of your favourite artists? I have a rather eclectic taste in music and like a wee bit of everything but some of my favourite artists are the likes of Ed Sheeran, Beyonce, Biffy Clyro, Amy Winehouse, Nina Simone and most recently The Hollywood Vampires (supergroup lead by Alice Cooper, Johnny Depp and Joe Perry). How does Cerebral Palsy effect your everyday life? Cerebral Palsy effects my everyday life as being a wheelchair user means I have to adapt to simple tasks which might come easy and be overlooked to someone who’s able bodied. It doesn’t mean I can’t do something, I just have to find my own solutions, I’m always up for the challenge. What stigmas do you feel are attached to Cerebral
Palsy? Cerebral Palsy is common in premature babies due to the lack of oxygen at birth. I find one of the main stigma’s is that people who aren’t aware of this condition instantly think that everyone is affected in the same way, we aren’t. Every individual who is diagnosed with CP is different to the next. There’s also no cure, CP is a lifelong condition but is non-progressive. As someone who has a love for fashion and personal style, do you feel like someone like yourself is represented enough in the fashion industry? At the moment, I don’t feel like there’s enough representation for other wheelchair users like myself. If clothing can be modelled standing up surely it can be sitting down too? The fashion industry has to become an inclusive platform for everyone, especially people with disabilities. We are no different from abled bodied people. Stereotypes and barriers need to be broken down to normalise inclusion. In the last year or so there have been positive changes made within the industry which is brilliant, but we still have a long way to go. You’ve worked with the adaptive clothing brand Kintsugi, how was that experience? What makes their clothes so special? In January 2019, I modelled for the launch shoot of Kintsugi Clothing and I will be forever grateful to Emma McClelland, founder of Kintsugi for the experience. Emma saw a gap in the fashion industry for accessible clothing that wasn’t basic and bland. What makes the clothes so special is the fact that someone has taken the time to realise the challenges and pet peeves disabled people face when it comes to fashion – really simple things like zips/poppers/velcro and magnet closers for ease of dressing instead of buttons and changing where pockets sit on jeans for example, as they’re difficult to access when sitting. Kintsugi has taken off across the fashion industry, challenging what it means to be disabled and fashionable because we can be both. What’s the best advice you’ve ever received? I’m a true believer in all things happening for a reason, if something wasn’t meant for you it’s not the end, it just wasn’t meant to be and something better will come along. How would you describe your style? I would describe my style as modern, chic, boho and a nod to vintage and classic styles as I’m very inspired by Chanel. I like keeping up with all the latest trends
When were you diagnosed with Dystonia and Neuropathy? I had the symptoms when I turned 14, but I wasn’t diagnosed until after 18. What is Dystonia and Neuropathy and what kind of symptoms do you get? Dystonia is where the muscles pull in the opposite direction. Neuropathy basically means nerve dead. How does it effect your day to day activities? What challenges does it bring? My overall diagnosis affects everything. I can’t walk, I can hop with a frame but I can only weight bare on one leg. In my mind, I’m still the same person I was before 14. I’m still independent but obviously some activities such as dancing, athletics and just general mingling with my peers can be hard when you can’t walk. I often find society isn’t made for those who can’t walk. Think about architecture, most modern buildings have some adaptations for sure, but most don’t take into account intersectionality within disabilities. Another interesting thing, is that I haven’t been able to move out and live in private accommodation or a house share because nothing is adapted aside from university accommodation. So I couldn’t live with my friends but strangers each year. I don’t mind because I Iike people, but sometimes it’s hard to get close to people because there is an actual physical barrier which alienates you in society.
of my energy and try to do things that make me happy. I really wish society would change to realise people with disabilities are human, and could have a life if adaptations and inclusivity were at the forefront of policies. As someone who likes to experiment with makeup, how do you feel about the representation of disabled people in the beauty industry? It’s so dire, unfortunately so many agencies reject you based off of your disability, not your talent or flare for beauty/skincare/. What’s the best advice you’ve ever been given? You are only responsible for educating people on how to treat you. How would you describe your style? Fashion is something I use to express myself, I love chic style and things that make me feel pretty. I really love the colour blue and purple at the moment.
What do you get up to in your free time? I like to do a lot, I have a podcast called TalkItOutz where I talk about my life so far. I love being social, meeting people gives me so much energy but I also love exploring on my own with my car. If you’re having an uncomfortable/painful day, how do you take care of yourself? Hmm it’s hard, sometimes it’s not just physical pain, mentally it can really effect you. For example if all you wanted to do was go to a cinema, but the only accessible theatre wasn’t showing your film it can make you feel down and excluded. I actually had to move university’s because Exeter didn’t cater for wheelchairs and I was alone a lot. It’s hard because it’s not something you can control. I don’t use public transport a lot because it’s so hard to get around, people treat you differently. So I’d probably say I’ve just become more protective
Rachelle has Dystonia and Neuropathy but uses her podcast, TalkItOutz as a platform to talk about disability and other issues.
Top, shirt, sweater vest, jeans, earrings, shoes & glasses - Models own
Sophie is an experienced contemporary dancer and moderately deaf living within the hearing community, using hearing aids as well as lip reading.
Thong bodysuit and bra & knicker trousers - Alice Elizabeth Clarke Blouse & shoes - ASOS Tights - Stylists own
Tell us a little bit about you, have you always been moderately deaf? Yes, I was born with a hearing impairment. This wasn’t diagnosed until I was 3 years old. My hearing loss is thought to be caused by the nerve endings in my ears not developing fully, which means that it is chronic and unlikely to get significantly worse or better.
me to present in a moment. This is something that I have particularly realised during lock down, as I have noticed that my day to day frustrations have no way of escaping when I don’t dance. This is in relation to going out to clubs and dancing too, as I find this almost equally as therapeutic.
How did you first get into contemporary dance? I began with ballet, tap and modern classes as a child. This is where I found my love for dance performance. I realised pretty early on that I was not a ballet dancer, my physicality didn’t lend itself easily to ballet! However, I knew I loved and also had a talent for performing and dance expression. I always enjoyed being creative and almost rebellious with dance, and this is what lead me to discover contemporary dance. I started training in a variety of specific contemporary dance techniques when I was 16. This then enabled me to gain a place at Trinity Laban Conservatoire of Music and Dance, where I gained a first class honours degree and following that an MA with Transitions Dance Company.
Favourite place you’ve performed in and why? On Monte Verita in Ascona, Switzerland. It was a re imagined Rudolf Laban piece called Drumstick. The location has history of being the home of alternative hippie communities and home of Rudolf Laban himself ,and Drumstick is thought to have been first staged there in the early 1900’s. The piece was performed outside and the majority of the movement was performed in unison. The dance piece was based upon rhythm in the body driving the live drumming music. However when we started performing a thunder storm started. It was so liberating and magical dancing in the rain with the additional rhythm of thunder! It almost felt as though we summoned the storm!
Do you think being part of the hearing community has differed your dance experience? I am able to communicate effectively with ‘hearing’ people, and I do not have any discrepancies with my speech. This means that I am able to live in the hearing community. However, this also means that people sometimes overlook or fail to recognise what effects my hearing impairment has on my energy level. This has affected me within my dance training as teachers usually give directions and corrections over the musical accompaniment. This has meant that I’ve had to concentrate harder and have missed a lot of information. Another aspect that I have noticed that is very specific to contemporary dance, is that I hold a lot of tension in my neck because I am conscious that my hearing aids could fall out. This in turn effects the fluidity of some of my movement. Despite the challenges I also think that my hearing impairment has enhanced my dance work. This is because it requires me to be an effective communicator though other means rather than speech,
I do really believe that movement is medicine.
Best advice you’ve ever received? The more you practice the luckier you get. I like this because it is inferring that if you are persistent enough eventually something will go your way! What is something you’d want everyone to know about being moderately deaf? It’s easy for people to assume you’re not listening if you are deaf, however I want everyone to know that deaf people are actually the best listeners! This is because we have to be more aware to communicate effectively. We piece together communication by using lipreading, body language and tone of voice, arguably more than the average person. Due to this constant concentration on the environment it can cause fatigue. This is usually something that people are unaware of. Have you ever struggled with having to wear hearing aids in terms of self confidence? What advice would you give to someone feeling self conscious about them? It has never been a consideration not to wear my hearings aids, because I understood that the
negative effects on my self-confidence would be much higher if I couldn’t hear. However, I am very aware of being seen as less able or different to other people. When I was a teenager I never wore my hair up in school, so no one would see my hearing aids. Maybe this is why I felt comfortable dancing, because it was a requirement to wear your hair up and therefore I couldn’t hide away from that part of myself. I feel as though I am still conscious to some degree even now. For example, if I was meeting someone for the first time I would try to conceal my hearing aids because I want to avoid any assumptions in regards to my hearing loss. I am working on not thinking like this! I would say that your differences are what make you extraordinary, and they should be celebrated. Wearing hearing aids with confidence can allow for other people with differences to also feel comfortable. Also to remember that essentially it is impossible to control what others think of you, so it is helpful to channel your energy inwards instead of worrying how others are perceiving you. How would you describe your style? I would describe my style as extra! I am usually found wearing leopard print. I have more statement clothes in my wardrobe than day to day wear. In a way I would say that I am inspired by my theatrical background, as I love sparkles, gold jewelery and anything unusual. I also love trainers, and I am known to always have the best pairs! I believe this is the contemporary dance influence.
Brinston is an actor and gym lover playing for the Birmingham Wheelchair Basketball team, who after a car accident became wheelchair bound.
What were some of the challenges you faced after the accident? One of my biggest challenges was to find out my friends or those I thought where my friends were actually not. I also found it difficult to move around with my wheelchair without help, along with being unable to go to certain places I could go before. What is your experience as a wheelchair user in the acting and film industry? When it comes to the acting industries and you are a wheelchair user, it’s almost impossible to get jobs that can help you with growing your career. Most of the film industry doesn’t have the confidence to use a proper wheelchair user for scenes and will actually go for someone that’s not a wheelchair user instead, which is not an honest representation. It’s not a way to include wheelchair users or other actors that are disabled.
In My Shoes fundraising project was recently launched to raise money for Mind and Zebedee’s non profit organisation,to go towards workshops to keep everyone connected during this pandemic, by walking a minimum of one mile donating £1 for each mile. How can everyone get involved with this? This is a project to help our team get more involved in the modelling and acting industry, providing us with the necessary means like acting workshops and much more to help get our voices out there. There should be a link on the Zebedee’s Instagram page (@zebedeetalent) which provides the necessary information to be able to be a part of this project.
What’s the best production you’ve been in and why? During my years with Zebedee I have had the amazing opportunity to work with big brands such as: Tommy Hilfiger, Hugo boss, Klarna UK, What are your views on the representation Amazon and have been on TV shows such as: of disabled people in film? Is there room for Hollyoaks, Teen Taxi and Sex Education on Netflix. improvement? If I had to pick one it would be with Tommy HilThere’s a lot of improvement that can be done! figer, which was my first mayor job with Zebedee More disabled actors should be in the spotlight outside the UK. It was an amazing opportunity, to prove that we are not ‘waste’ of society, we are an eye opener and the door that led to so many capable enough to do more than what we are others to come! It showed me that with enough portrayed as. As I would say, we are not disabled... hard work things will certainly come your way. we are differently able. You share a flat with you partner, is this your Best advice you’ve ever been given? first time moving away from home? What are Keep on moving forward, no matter the hardship. some tips about moving you would give? They are all challenges to make you a better perI share a flat with my partner and it’s my first time son in the future. Life wasn’t made to be easy. moving out of my parents home. In my case I have always worked hard in the gym to keep my self How do you keep yourself active in your free fit and be as independent as possible, to not be time? a burden to my parents. I would just say don’t be I love to go to the gym, swimming and sometimes afraid of new experience’s, if it doesn’t work out for some long outdoor ‘walks’ haha. I also play at sometimes it always will in the end. the Birmingham Wheelchair Basketball team. How would you describe your style? What advice would you give to someone strug- I would say my style is selfless style... haha I don’t gling to come to terms with their disability, or have one really, any style you put on me will look struggling with mental health? good! I am an all round type! I would say the fist thing necessary to be able to move forward is to accept who you are! Know your life might have changed, but you’re still fortunate enough to see the colours of another day. Life isn’t and won’t be easy, it’s the same for everyone and not just you. Let yesterday begone and embrace tomorrow!
Top, Necklace & dungarees - Models own
Georgina lives with the chronic illness ME/CFS and is a wheelchair user inspiring others going through the same situation. A huge creative Georgina is a photographer, actress and model.
When were you diagnosed with ME/CFS? I was diagnosed with ME/CFS in 2012 when I was 13, but I’ve had the condition since I was 10. I’ve had the condition for almost 12 years now. How has ME/CFS changed your everyday life and activities? ME/CFS changed my entire life, it flipped it upside down and I had to learn/accept a new way of living. I had to leave school in year 9 and went into home schooling where I did English, Maths & Science. As someone who was an A* student having to come out of school and drop pretty much all classes was difficult to accept, but at the end of it I managed to pass those 3 subjects which for my health, both physical and mental, was a huge win. I went from being a very active person, dancing every other night, swimming, biking etc to someone who couldn’t leave the house. That was until I got my wheelchair, which again was a huge life changing moment that gave me my freedom. Having to give up dancing was and still is the hardest thing I had to do. I had been dancing since the age of 3 and after 13 years, it suddenly coming to an end without getting to properly say goodbye was difficult. Like with school, dance class was the same, I was there one day, gone the next. What is one thing you would want people to know about ME/CFS? One thing that I’d like people to know about ME/ CFS is that it’s not just tiredness, it’s fatigue and that’s just one component of the condition. No we cant just sleep it off and then feel better, it just doesn’t work like that. What positive things have come out of your ME/CFS diagnosis? Surprisingly, so many positives have come out of having ME/CFS. The most unexpected, was it bringing me to the path I believe is right for me. I got signed to talent and modelling agency Zebedee, who specialise in the representation of disabilities and differences. I signed to Zebedee in 2017 and my life since has not been the same in the best way possible. Every week I have something to aim and work towards whether it be an audition, job, shoot or some social media influencing (this was a particular surprising one for me as for a while I was neither confident in my
fashion or was bothered by social media, but now I love the supportive community and of course, I’m a huge lover of fashion now too). It’s ignited a fire and drive within me. I have grown much more than I thought I’d ever be able to. Going through all the challenges of living with a chronic illness has helped shape me and I’ve learnt so much from it. Without ME/CFS changing my entire life and making me look into other options rather than just my plan of uni, I don’t think I would have had the confidence to follow my true passions and true dreams/goals of becoming an actress and model. You’ve inspired so many people and started open conversations about ME/CFS, how was your journey of getting to the mindset you have today? My journey of getting to the mindset I have today has been pretty tough and took a while but worth every minute. I struggled, naturally, after my diagnosis and felt extremely lost for a while. Not only did I not know the condition, but I didn’t know anyone like me or anyone like me to look up to within the media. My life had completely changed. I had to leave school, dance, an active lifestyle, lost friends and had to adjust to a whole new way of life. I definitely grieved for the life I had lost and resented what I had been left with. When I finally accepted getting a wheelchair, that helped end my time being housebound and I was able to start doing things again. My parents planned trips and holidays to places like London and Disney to help me see just what I could still have in my life. It was then I realised that I still had a life worth living, that I could still have a great life with my condition. At this point I had no idea that I was going to be able to pursue my goals and dreams but it was a huge start. I started to take care of myself and treat my body better, even though some days it doesn’t treat me the best, I make sure that it has everything it needs to be able to be at it’s ‘best’ both on the inside and outside. If you took a couple of years and turned it into a short clip, it would be like a montage when the girl gets a makeover. I still didn’t know what I was going to do but then I joined Zebedee and found my passion. I not only got to start taking part in opportunities that I could only dream of, but I finally had a voice and a platform to share it on. For so long I had to fight
for my voice to be heard by doctors, teachers and family/friends and it was always a constant battle. Now I’m incredibly lucky to be able to take part in campaigns that openly talk about topics that I wish I had seen/heard when I was going through these things like diagnosis, mental health and body image. I’ve found that sharing my journey and talking about it in a community that understands, helped me accept certain things about myself and still continues to help me whilst hopefully helping others. Now that outlook has completely changed around and I wouldn’t change my life the way it is now, I love it. The challenges I’ve faced have made me who I am today and certainly made me stronger. It’s certainly made me more appreciative of the small things and what some people may take for granted. It’s funny how now I look at things and realise that yeah, this is the right path for me. You have a love for acting, what’s the best performance you’ve ever taken part in and why? I could pick so many as a few acting performances come to mind, but these couple hold sentimental value and are all on the stage from when I was part of a drama school. One was with my first dance school so I was very young, perhaps around the age of 6ish, and I got the opportunity to play the role of Wendy in Peter Pan. Now, Peter Pan is one of my favourite Disney movies and getting to play Wendy was a dream. Within drama school I was lucky enough to play many roles, I still remember when I got chosen to perform my first monologue piece in a show, I couldn’t believe it and it gave me such a boost in confidence. I once played the Magic Mirror in a performance of Snow White which was such a unique experience as I was filmed in front of a green screen for the first time and then projected onto the theatres stage curtains, it was quite something. Looking at the film and media industry, do you think the representation of disabled people is at it’s full potential? Unfortunately, I do not think the representation of disabled people within the film and media industry is at it’s full potential, perhaps not even at half potential. That being said, particularly in the last couple of years there has been so much change and movement and I’m feeling positive that within the next couple of years to come, the industry will look different once again. There is more acceptance absolutely, I cant wait though to see more and have a full diverse and inclusive industry with opportunities for all.
What’s the best advice you’ve ever received? One of the older models in Zebedee who I’ve been lucky enough to know since the beginning, once messaged me when I was still a bit shy about an upcoming shoot that was a bit out of my comfort zone at the time, which she had already done and she said: ‘Just go for it. If you get the opportunity to do it, do. Embrace the moment, don’t regret not going for it. It’s one of the best things I have ever done for my confidence’. I’m so glad she messaged me because she was right. That shoot ended up being a turning point in my career, it unlocked a part of me I didn’t know was there and was one of the biggest confidence boosters. I now apply this to everything I do, just go for it. Embrace every moment and do my best! When you’re having a low day, how do you take care of yourself? I think self care is important when having a low day. Putting yourself first and doing things that make you feel good. For me, I’ll throw on a playlist of songs I’ve made that particularly reignite me or put on a movie/ TV show that is a favourite of mine. Usually it’ll be something I’ve seen many times so when I put it on, I don’t have to concentrate, I can just relax and enjoy the movie. If it’s a musical sing a long it helps me get out of my head for a while. Taking a bubble bath lit by candles and fairy lights is also something I enjoy as it just relaxes and resets me. Being around my family and dog is a must when I’m having a low day, even if at points I just need to go lay in bed with a movie, I know they will be there for a hug, to talk to or whatever else I need in that moment. Sitting in the garden brushing my dog is very calming and balancing. How would you describe your style? Describing my style has become a tricky one as I seem to have grown a very diverse range in fashion tastes from your classic lines and looks, to those a bit more out there and quirky/edgy. I don’t just stick to one style. I do love wearing black as it’s such a staple colour in a wardrobe but I also enjoy bringing pops of colour, specifically red into looks. You can either find me in docs or heels, there doesn’t seem to be any in between. When I go out, I love to make an effort and get dressed up no matter the event. I just enjoy experimenting with my style and having fun with it. I used to wear clothes purely because they were just that, clothes. I didn’t have a style or enjoy fashion but now that couldn’t be further from the truth. I love fashion and don’t particularly follow trends, I just dress how I want to and what suits me. It’s a fun way to express myself!
Blouse, shorts, tights & boots Models own
Over the years many of my projects have been based around my brother and his disability (Muscular Dystrophy) and only recently have I been styling him and realising the difficulty of every day clothes for the disabled. Muscular Dystrophy is where the muscles are damaged and weakened due to the lack of dystrophin, which is essential for muscles to function normally. Due to this my brother is unable to lift his hands high or do many clothing closures himself. Realising this issue I wanted to create an adaptive collection with designer Irem Ar that is unisex, trendy and functional that begins to fill the big adaptive wear market gap. Each garment has adaptations that can be useful for anyone, like magnetic buttons and velcro removable sleeves, with the sole intention of making dressing easier and not as...faffy. Limitless currently only exists as drawings that have been formed by a survey and questions answered by disabled people to make clothes that are genuinely helpful. Limitless consists of three tops, four jackets/coats, one hoodie, two pairs of trousers, three pairs of shorts, one dress and one skirt that can be worn by any gender. All of the designs feature no labels or seams sticking out to avoid irritating the skin.
The trench coat is a wardrobe staple, many of the survey participants explained that coats were difficult to find due to the closures and the thickness of the fabric making them difficult to put on. The Gingham Trench Coat has removable sleeves so arms don’t have to be put in difficult positions to get through the sleeves, magnetic buttons and a wrap around style that ties with a belt to add shape. The coat comes just below the knees standing, so when sitting it sits at the knees at the perfect length. Underneath is a short sleeved wrap dress that can be easily done up independently when sat down and standing up. The trench coat is made from Herringbone Twill Peace Silk, made from natural raw silk with no added chemicals, that is biodegradable. It’s soft on the skin so has no irritating stimuli for people with autism, and is lightweight, breathable and not thick and bulky so good for everyday wear. The dress is made from Ivory Recycled Polyester Satin made from 100% recycled polyester.
The Patchwork Coat is made from Fair Trade Undyed Cream Twill made by natural organic denim cotton, that is fully biodegradable. The Patchwork Coat is thicker than the trench coat but still has a lightweight feel. The back is slightly longer than the front to give modesty and so the front material doesn’t bunch. The bottom half of the sleeves can be removed to be made shorter, whilst the top half of the sleeves have velcro closures to make putting the arms into the sleeves a smooth process. Once the top half has been put on, the bottom piece of the coat is attached by magnetic buttons, which then wraps around to be closed with velcro closures. This means the jacket can worn cropped or full length. The Denim Jeans are made from Fair Trade Light Blue Selvedge Denim dyed naturally with indigo. Denim is not used on the knee area so there is more stretch and so the knee area isn’t restricted. The bottom of the jeans are attached to the top with velcro straps, so when first putting the jeans on there isn’t a lot of fabric for the legs to go through. The back of the jeans are higher than the front so no skin is exposed when in the sitting position to keep modesty.
The Gingham Cape is designed for the days the weather is all over the place and you want something that can easily be taken on and off depending on the temperature. It can be placed round the shoulders and wrapped around to be done up at the front with velcro closures. It sits at hip level so it’s suitable for both sitting down and standing up. The Gingham Cape is made from Herringbone Twill Peace Silk so there are no irritants against the skin as well as feeling comfortable and breathable.
All garments - Monika Dolbniak Shoes - ASOS
Sadie is an Autism Awareness in Sports Campaigner, training for athletics and working on building her lip gloss brand.
When were you diagnosed with autism? 7/8 years old. How would you explain high functioning autism to someone? It’s a neurological and intellectual disability that can affect an individuals communication, expressing emotions and social interests. However, autism can affect many people differently and therefore people might not have difficulties in all of these. What are some stereotypes and misconceptions about autism you want to clear up? That we don’t feel emotions and are rude, that we don’t have friends and are always lonely which is not the case, we just find it hard to socialise or understand social situations/interactions. Sometimes we say things that are rude but we might not understand why what we said is rude. There are also stereotypes that we’re all really smart or are geniuses and are good at maths and that we feel no empathy. What are some challenges that autism presents you with? For me personally I find it hard to keep friends, I do have the few friends I get along with who I’ve known for more than 10 years, but when meeting new people I find it hard on how to behave and what to do or say. I can’t stay out in public for more than a few hours as I start to feel overwhelmed and it can make me become very sensitive and anxious, which can be frustrating as it limits me from doing more or new things. I feel anxious all the time and I need constant reassurance or need one of my parents to be present with me. When I start experiencing a sensory overload it can be really overwhelming and exhausting for me as I try my best not to have a meltdown in the environment I’m in if not at home, as having meltdowns make me feel very embarrassed and ashamed of myself. A change of routine can make me become agitated and anxious even for the littlest things.
and what they think about you. What are your goals for the future? To achieve more than what other people expect autistic people to achieve, become a pro athlete or popular model and activist that represents the autistic community. How did you become an Autism in Sports Awareness Campaigner? What sort of things does this entail? I first started when I became part of the Welsh Athletes Voice, I talked to other athletes/coaches about what autism is and have been part of articles on Welsh Athletics website talking about what autism is. You have your own lipgloss brand made from organic products that are cruelty free, how did that start? I started my business dumpling in the first lockdown, I love makeup and so I thought, what if I started a small business? I started planning what my main theme would be, what I would be selling (which is lipgloss), my logo, ideas etc. And now I have my own website and Instagram page and my business is slowly growing. Website - www.s-glosscosmetics.com Instagram - @sgloss01
How do you relax and unwind? I avoid situations or places that can make me feel overwhelmed and anxious and keep myself away from people. I wear noise canceling headphones and listen to loud music as it helps me feel calm when I can’t hear what’s going on around me. I also do some exercises or draw/paint how I’m feeling. What’s the best advice you’ve ever received? To always be yourself no matter what people are saying Top & necklace - Models own
What inspired you to begin to make a collection for people with autism? I actually started designing clothes for autistic people 2 years ago however, the turning point for me was a unit at my university called Better Lives, during which I met inclusive designer Laura Salisbury, who created silicone zips for people with motor disabilities. Before I would have never thought that fashion can address disability and that it can offer disabled customers helpful and therapeutic products and services. I also think that heading in this direction was a natural step for me as having observed my younger autistic brothers approach to garments for my whole life, I can point out which specific solutions, both from a fashion design and shopping experience perspective, are needed. The way he is ‘stuffing’ his garments with plastic bags or his socks with sharp objects has always intrigued me. What are your garments designed to do for people with autism? Specifically, the dress, jacket and hoodie Sadie is wearing? In this project, I am focusing on delivering communication and social therapy through clothes, as a lack of understanding is a common struggle autistic people face. Each outfit corresponds to separate therapy and it’s modules/garments are assigned to certain steps. Whilst designing I was aiming to create tools/ accessories that can be helpful while conducting and structuring such therapies, rather than fashionable adaptive wear. Due to this, pieces have no one specific function or way to be worn, which allows for their interactive, engaged and personal exploration. The pieces I designed were created in line to meet autistic people’s comfort and preferences. The majority of them are joined with bondaweb which eliminates any thread seams, as it is a common irritating feature for autistic people. Moreover, all of the surfaces are flat and have a clean finish, there are no harsh or irregular stimuli. I used soft and smooth sportswear materials that are harmonised by toned and friendly colours. The dress and the jacket Sadie is wearing are a part of “Love” therapy that help autistic people to understand relationships and feelings. The pieces are very light and reveal naked parts of Sadie’s body that aims for expanding intimacy and enables others to touch her. It pushes users to come out of their sensory comfort zone. The second set is designed for “Help” therapy that teaches people how to ask for help and cope in unpredictable and new situations. The garments require other people’s hands when being put on as they are very complicated and hard to dress. The partici-
pant is forced to reach out to others and learn how to effectively communicate his/her needs. The hoodie is made in contrasting and vibrant colours so the user is more visible to others. What designers are you inspired by? In terms of the adaptive wear market, there are no designers that make a significant impact on me. However, I am very inspired by brands and platforms that work through co-creative communities and value their customers input into design processes, as well as offering inclusive and interactive products. Some of those brands are Raeburn Design, FashionForGood and MismatchDesign by Kat Holmes. What are your views on adaptive wear that’s available on the market already? Nowadays the adaptive wear market is only serving people with physical disabilities which excludes mental disability. According to the National Autistic Society (2020), 1 in 100 people are on the spectrum, whilst WHO (2001) estimates that 1 in 4 people are affected by mental disorders. These numbers prove that there is a significant demand for adaptive wear for mental disability, so one may ask why this data has not convinced investors yet? In my opinion, the main cause for this is that designers perceive adaptive wear as an alternative, their focus is not to solve a certain problem but to create a universal solution that suits all and would be good for the business. For me, it should no longer be that way as they forget that these clients are mostly fully aware of their disability and it forms a part of their identity as well. The main role of adaptive wear is to be functional for it’s users, so I think to achieve this outcome it needs to be tested and created with the user, while when aiming for a universal solution, it may seem difficult or unreliable. In my mind the world values diversity and fashion is desperately trying to be a leader of it, designers should have no fear of using inappropriate words and make adaptive wear that actually applies people’s needs and not what they think it can be or represent. What are your plans for the future and future garments? My current plan is to develop this idea at a master level. In the future, I would like to introduce mental disability to the adaptive wear market as an adaptive fashion/product designer. I believe there is still so much that designers can do in this field and I would like to explore this using a collaborative and multi-disciplinary approach.
Socks - ASOS