Portfolio - Clara-Sophie Doehl by Clara Doehl

The first mini collection is designed for Dover Street Market (DSM) and is specifically aimed for womenswear. It has been inspired by the process of weathering caused by natural as well as human erosion. Through constant corrosion of severe weather – wind, acid rain and waves – once strong rock fades away into fragile and exposed structures. WGSN trend A/W 16/17 Elemental fit the initial concept idea well; it predicts ‘worn’ fabrics such as faded knitwear which could be used to interpret the weathered landscape and how, over time, it will recede even further. The colour palette for this trend is soft and simplistic; reminiscence of the Tundra Desert and its solemnity. The target market are females between the ages of 18-30 who are environmentally conscious and want to make a statement with their fashion. They’re educated, stylish and feminine and particularly like knitwear. The Ready-To-Wear collection has possible competitors such as Julien David, Rory Parnell Mooney and Rick Owens who share a similar minimalistic approach to designing; as well as sell at DSM. Like the other designers, the collection lacks vivacious colours and prints, focusing on simplicity and symbolism instead.

Research

Physical Erosion

Competitors Julien David Rick owens rory parnell mooney

wgsn a/w 16/17 elemental

Colours

mood

raw erosion the sense of fading away

Fabrics

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Colour & Print

The second mini collection is based on the use of colour and print and is aimed for a Mid-level

market. The concept was initial y inspired by the target consumer: a young and classy woman who portrays stature, style and femininity through what she wears. This collection is for women between the ages of 18-30 who want to dress youthfully chic.

Following S/S 17 WGSN trend Pause, I chose to emphasise femininity through a combination

of warm and cooler tones; creating a romantic colour palette. As an il ustrator I wanted to incorporate lines into a print which linked well with the trend. Through experimenting with line arts, sketches and geometric shapes a one-line drawing was designed and repeated to create a fine print.

Instead of creating outfits for a mid-level brand I chose to design a womenswear collection

under my own label, CD. The main competitors in the market with similar aesthetics are Australian labels such as Keepsake, Finders Keepers and Cameo. What this collection brings to the market is that modern femininity but with a more subtle print; giving consumers who are not necessarily keen on bold prints, a lovely detail to their garments.

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Mini collection three is a collaborated capsule collection with sportswear brand, Adidas, and has to follow a Spring/Summer 17 trend for a contemporary finish. The collaboration needs to show the balance between one’s own design aesthetic with Adidas’. The collection consists of 6 outfits of performance wear specifically designed for womenswear. The main colour palette is taken from WGSN trend Pause S/S17, giving the collection a warm and feminine aesthetic without having to resort to using bold and bright tones. The line print in this collection is inspired by the 3 strings and handles of a shamisen (a traditional Japanese lute/guitar); as well as referring back to Adidas’ classic three stripes. The print is used in a contrast colour to add a modern twist and enhance the subtle detail. The ideal target consumer is a woman between the ages of 20-35, who likes feminine and practical workout clothes which are breathable during exercise and easy to layer. She does not only run for exercise but enjoys it as part of her lifestyle.

Runway

Adidas Collaborations

Stella McCartney Designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature

Fitness Lifestyle Not just sports, but a way of life

Japanese instrument: Shamisen Adidas 3 stripes

The Thrill of Running Are you ready?

WGSN S/S 17 ‘Pause’

Performance Fabrics

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D I F F U S I O N

Mini collection four is a diffused version of the final degree collection and is in collaboration with High-Street brand, H&M. It consists of 6 outfits, also designed for womenswear which are altered to fit the High-Street market through garment readjustments and cheaper fabrics. Still following the same creative approaches as the High-End collection, the diffused collection focuses on colour changes to portray the theme and mood; incorporating military elements and a hint of Kabuki theatrics as well as following WGSN trend Remaster A/W 16/17. It still portrays Yoshitsuneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s demise however the emphasis of samurai and armour has been reduced to fit with H&M aesthetics. What has been altered are the silhouettes which have been taken in slightly to appeal to a younger market; the use of pleating within the garments has been reduced to bring down the cost of fabrics; the re-designed patterns for the garments allow for easy and quick construction; the pleather has been changed to a lighter fabric and the frequency of its use has also been reduced. As H&M has several target markets, the collection is aimed at their female consumer base - young and trendy women who enjoy shopping as part of their lifestyle. What this collection brings to their market is a fresh and unique take on fashion; an element of Japanese aesthetic and a strong colour palette.

Samurai Warrior Kabuki Theatre Military Chic

R E S E A R C H

A dark Tale... Blood spilled, Betrayal

M O O D

Japanese & Western symbolism

Red, White, Pink - Celebratory & Happiness

Red, Grey, Black

- Despair & Treachery

C O L O U R S

F A B R I C S

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The

Sword will Decide

A time when the way of the sword meant respect and courage; a blade that decided death from life and honour from cowardice. The quote: â&#x20AC;&#x153;reason will not decide at last, the sword will decideâ&#x20AC;? inspires the tale of the great Minamoto no Yoshitsune: a Japanese military general who won legendary battles and was thought to have played an essential role in the rise of the samurai era (The Kamakura Period). His fame, however, brought his eventual downfall as he was betrayed and forced into exile by his brother, Minamoto no Yoritomo, and lastly had to commit seppuku - suicide through the sword - at the young age of 30 in 1189. The collection had to consist of 6 outfits; each look depicts the gradual demise of the betrayed Yoshitsune until his death and is designed for womenswear. Following WGSN Remaster AW 16/17 trend forecasts, the straight and layered outfits defeminize the silhouettes and embody the essence of the great samurai. His armour is shown through the use of panelling and faux leather to give the aesthetic of strength, whilst stretchy wool softens the entire look of the collection. The historical garments are combined and contemporized with the theatrical costumes of Kabuki and modern military elements. The key details such as the pleating and the left-over-right front folds are taken from traditional Japanese clothing and mixed with military brass buttons and garment shapes. The betrayal against Yoshitsune is shown through the use of red and its gradual increase throughout the collection. The base colours progressively darken from white and pink to grey and black, shifting the

mood from happiness into despair. The target market are females between the ages of 20-35 who have a love for Asian aesthetics and culture. They enjoy to express their individual style through fashion and are always on the search for unique yet stylish clothing that are wearable and functional. Although some colour is enjoyed at times they prefer less conspicuous tones. Comfort and functionality are important to the consumer and they want to feel confident in what they wear. As the collection is placed within the lower level of the High-End market, my ideal consumer is someone who enjoys buying products of higher quality but who cannot necessarily afford luxury brands.

R e s 研 e 究 a r c h

Military Chic Japanese samurai general Died by seppuku in 1189

Kabuki Theater Japanese samurai general Died by seppuku in 1189

Minamoto no Yoshitsune Japanese samurai general Died by seppuku in 1189

Japanese Colour Symbolism White - purity Pink - happiness Red - bloodshed; betrayal Grey - mistrust Black - disparir; death

M雰 o 囲 o d気

The betrayal of Yoshitsune Treachery; Loss; Bloodshed

C o l o色 u r s

WGSN A/W 16/17 ‘Remaster’ Symbolic references

F a b r i c s

織物

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