cooking in the moment
Reus_9780307463890_1p_fm_r1.indd
1
8/2/10
8:31 AM
cooking in the moment A Year of Seasonal Recipes andrea reusing
(colophon) Clarkson Potter/Publishers New York
Reus_9780307463890_1p_fm_r1.indd
2-3
8/2/10
8:31 AM
cooking in the moment A Year of Seasonal Recipes andrea reusing
(colophon) Clarkson Potter/Publishers New York
Reus_9780307463890_1p_fm_r1.indd
2-3
8/2/10
8:31 AM
For Mac, Oona, and Arthur
Copyright © 2011 by Andrea Reusing Photographs copyright © 2011 by John Kernick All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York. www.crownpublishing.com www.clarksonpotter.com CLARKSON POTTER is a trademark and POTTER with colophon is a registered trademark of Random House, Inc. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-P ublication Data Reusing, Andrea. Cooking in the moment / Andrea Reusing. — 1st ed. p. cm. Includes index. 1. Cookery (Natural foods). 2. Menus. I. Title. TX741.R49 2010 641.5'636—dc22 2010018532 ISBN 978-0-307-46389-0 Printed in China Design by Marysarah Quinn 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 first edition
Reus_9780307463890_1p_fm_r1.indd
4-5
8/2/10
8:31 AM
For Mac, Oona, and Arthur
Copyright © 2011 by Andrea Reusing Photographs copyright © 2011 by John Kernick All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York. www.crownpublishing.com www.clarksonpotter.com CLARKSON POTTER is a trademark and POTTER with colophon is a registered trademark of Random House, Inc. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-P ublication Data Reusing, Andrea. Cooking in the moment / Andrea Reusing. — 1st ed. p. cm. Includes index. 1. Cookery (Natural foods). 2. Menus. I. Title. TX741.R49 2010 641.5'636—dc22 2010018532 ISBN 978-0-307-46389-0 Printed in China Design by Marysarah Quinn 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 first edition
Reus_9780307463890_1p_fm_r1.indd
4-5
8/2/10
8:31 AM
contents introduction
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spring 00 summer 00
fall 00 winter 00 sources 000 acknowledgments index 000
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8/2/10
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contents introduction
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spring 00 summer 00
fall 00 winter 00 sources 000 acknowledgments index 000
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spring
spring
grilled broccoli with parsley, garlic, and anchovies Delicate fresh broccoli and cauliflower from a garden or small farm don’t resemble the useful California sorts that are a fixture in our produce drawer the rest of the year, and so we enjoy them while we can. But because broccoli and cauliflower do travel and keep exceptionally well, I make these recipes year-round, just allowing for slightly longer cooking times when dealing with more mature vegetables.
serves 4
2 small bunches of tender broccoli 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for serving 6 anchovy fillets, minced (if whole salt-packed, filleted and rinsed) 2 garlic cloves, mashed to a paste Grated zest of 1 lemon ⅓ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves 2 teaspoons chile flakes, or to taste Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill. Cut the broccoli lengthwise to make long florets with all of the tender stem attached. Blanch in well-salted boiling water for just 15 to 20 seconds, a little longer if the broccoli is very mature. Drain well, transfer to a medium bowl, and toss with 1 tablespoon of the oil. When the flame has died down and the coals are completely covered with ash, grill the broccoli to slightly char it all over. It should get a bit crunchy on the outside yet stay a little firm at the center. Mix the anchovies, garlic, lemon zest, parsley, remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and chile flakes in a bowl. Add the grilled broccoli, toss well, and serve with olive oil at the table for drizzling.
s pr i n g | e n d o f m a r c h | 1 9
grilled broccoli with parsley, garlic, and anchovies Delicate fresh broccoli and cauliflower from a garden or small farm don’t resemble the useful California sorts that are a fixture in our produce drawer the rest of the year, and so we enjoy them while we can. But because broccoli and cauliflower do travel and keep exceptionally well, I make these recipes year-round, just allowing for slightly longer cooking times when dealing with more mature vegetables.
serves 4
2 small bunches of tender broccoli 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for serving 6 anchovy fillets, minced (if whole salt-packed, filleted and rinsed) 2 garlic cloves, mashed to a paste Grated zest of 1 lemon ⅓ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves 2 teaspoons chile flakes, or to taste Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill. Cut the broccoli lengthwise to make long florets with all of the tender stem attached. Blanch in well-salted boiling water for just 15 to 20 seconds, a little longer if the broccoli is very mature. Drain well, transfer to a medium bowl, and toss with 1 tablespoon of the oil. When the flame has died down and the coals are completely covered with ash, grill the broccoli to slightly char it all over. It should get a bit crunchy on the outside yet stay a little firm at the center. Mix the anchovies, garlic, lemon zest, parsley, remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and chile flakes in a bowl. Add the grilled broccoli, toss well, and serve with olive oil at the table for drizzling.
s pr i n g | e n d o f m a r c h | 1 9
campfire bacon and eggs in a bag I ate this magical meal at Girl Scout camp when I was seven years old, then thought about it for the next thirty-odd years until I got to have it again when we went camping in the mountains near Joe’s. It’s a full breakfast in a paper bag, easy to make if you already have a campfire burning (or hot embers in a charcoal grill or fireplace), portable, and delicious. As the bacon in the bottom of the paper bag renders and becomes crispy-chewy, the fat protects the paper from burning and gently steams the egg. This cannot be prepared in advance: after the eggs are cracked, the bags should be dangling over the hot embers within a minute.
serves 6
6 lunch-size paper bags 6 thick slices bacon, cut in half crosswise 6 large eggs Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Prepare a campfire or a fire in a fireplace or charcoal grill. Let the flames die down and the coals become completely covered with ash. (Don’t attempt this on a gas grill—they don’t have the firepower to render the bacon before the eggs soak the bags.) Lay 2 bacon halves across the bottom of each bag so that it is completely covered. Reach into each bag and carefully crack an egg over the bacon. Season with salt and pepper. Securely fold down the top of each bag three times and poke a hole through the fold with a sharp skewer. Thread a long, green stick through the hole and hold each bag so that the bottom is as close to the hot embers as possible—but without touching them and nowhere near any open flame. Cook for about 10 minutes, until the egg white is cooked all the way through.
s pr i n g | e a r ly a p r i l | 2 9
campfire bacon and eggs in a bag I ate this magical meal at Girl Scout camp when I was seven years old, then thought about it for the next thirty-odd years until I got to have it again when we went camping in the mountains near Joe’s. It’s a full breakfast in a paper bag, easy to make if you already have a campfire burning (or hot embers in a charcoal grill or fireplace), portable, and delicious. As the bacon in the bottom of the paper bag renders and becomes crispy-chewy, the fat protects the paper from burning and gently steams the egg. This cannot be prepared in advance: after the eggs are cracked, the bags should be dangling over the hot embers within a minute.
serves 6
6 lunch-size paper bags 6 thick slices bacon, cut in half crosswise 6 large eggs Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Prepare a campfire or a fire in a fireplace or charcoal grill. Let the flames die down and the coals become completely covered with ash. (Don’t attempt this on a gas grill—they don’t have the firepower to render the bacon before the eggs soak the bags.) Lay 2 bacon halves across the bottom of each bag so that it is completely covered. Reach into each bag and carefully crack an egg over the bacon. Season with salt and pepper. Securely fold down the top of each bag three times and poke a hole through the fold with a sharp skewer. Thread a long, green stick through the hole and hold each bag so that the bottom is as close to the hot embers as possible—but without touching them and nowhere near any open flame. Cook for about 10 minutes, until the egg white is cooked all the way through.
s pr i n g | e a r ly a p r i l | 2 9
grilled spanish mackerel with green sauce The fact that our great-Âgrandchildren may never eat a real seafood dinner gives those of us who still eat fish a responsibility not to put blue cheese on it. I like to serve this with the pickled beets and potato salad that follow. This treatment would work for almost any flavorful, rich fish.
serves 4
4 (8-ounce) Spanish mackerel fillets, skin on Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Finely ground dried red chiles, such as de ĂĄrbol Extra virgin olive oil Green Sauce (recipe follows) Prepare a fire in a charcoal grill. Season both sides of each fillet generously with salt, pepper, and chile. Drizzle both sides with a little olive oil. When the grill is very hot but the flame has died down and the coals are completely covered with ash, put the mackerel, skin side down, on the grill. Cook for at least 2 minutes before moving it at all. In the meantime, watch for flare-Âups, extinguishing them with a little water from a squirt bottle (beer works, too). It will take 4 to 6 minutes to cook the skin side. When the skin is crispy and deep golden brown, gently flip the fillets with a spatula. Grill for 2 to 3 minutes, until just cooked through. Serve with green sauce.
s pr i n g | j u n e | 5 7
grilled spanish mackerel with green sauce The fact that our great-Âgrandchildren may never eat a real seafood dinner gives those of us who still eat fish a responsibility not to put blue cheese on it. I like to serve this with the pickled beets and potato salad that follow. This treatment would work for almost any flavorful, rich fish.
serves 4
4 (8-ounce) Spanish mackerel fillets, skin on Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Finely ground dried red chiles, such as de ĂĄrbol Extra virgin olive oil Green Sauce (recipe follows) Prepare a fire in a charcoal grill. Season both sides of each fillet generously with salt, pepper, and chile. Drizzle both sides with a little olive oil. When the grill is very hot but the flame has died down and the coals are completely covered with ash, put the mackerel, skin side down, on the grill. Cook for at least 2 minutes before moving it at all. In the meantime, watch for flare-Âups, extinguishing them with a little water from a squirt bottle (beer works, too). It will take 4 to 6 minutes to cook the skin side. When the skin is crispy and deep golden brown, gently flip the fillets with a spatula. Grill for 2 to 3 minutes, until just cooked through. Serve with green sauce.
s pr i n g | j u n e | 5 7
summer
summer
fried okra with indian spices and hot tomato relish serves 4 as a small appetizer
1 teaspoon coriander seeds ¼ teaspoon fennel seeds 1 clove 1 teaspoon cumin seeds Vegetable oil, for frying 1 large egg ¼ cup buttermilk 1 medium serrano chile, finely chopped 2 tablespoons chickpea flour 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 pints okra (just under a pound), stems removed Sea salt, for serving Hot Tomato Relish (recipe follows) In a small pan over medium heat, lightly toast the coriander, fennel, and clove until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Allow to cool completely; then grind and set aside. Toast the cumin seeds in the same fashion and add them to the ground spices. Fill a deep, heavy stockpot with about 3 inches of oil. Heat the oil over medium-high heat until a deep-fat thermometer reads 350°F. Beat the egg in a small bowl and whisk in the buttermilk and serrano chile. In a medium bowl, combine the chickpea flour, all-purpose flour, salt, pepper, and spice mixture. Cut the okra on a sharp diagonal into long ¼-inch-thick slices. Put the okra slices into the bowl with the flour mixture and combine, leaving a light dusting on each piece. Pour the egg mixture on top and mix with your hands, making sure to coat all surfaces. In batches, use a large slotted spoon to carefully lay loosely formed handfuls of 6 to 8 slices into the hot oil and cook for about 2 minutes, turning as necessary until the okra is golden brown and uniformly crisp. Drain on a clean brown paper bag, season with sea salt, and serve with the tomato relish.
10 8 | cooking in the moment
fried okra with indian spices and hot tomato relish serves 4 as a small appetizer
1 teaspoon coriander seeds ¼ teaspoon fennel seeds 1 clove 1 teaspoon cumin seeds Vegetable oil, for frying 1 large egg ¼ cup buttermilk 1 medium serrano chile, finely chopped 2 tablespoons chickpea flour 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 pints okra (just under a pound), stems removed Sea salt, for serving Hot Tomato Relish (recipe follows) In a small pan over medium heat, lightly toast the coriander, fennel, and clove until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Allow to cool completely; then grind and set aside. Toast the cumin seeds in the same fashion and add them to the ground spices. Fill a deep, heavy stockpot with about 3 inches of oil. Heat the oil over medium-high heat until a deep-fat thermometer reads 350°F. Beat the egg in a small bowl and whisk in the buttermilk and serrano chile. In a medium bowl, combine the chickpea flour, all-purpose flour, salt, pepper, and spice mixture. Cut the okra on a sharp diagonal into long ¼-inch-thick slices. Put the okra slices into the bowl with the flour mixture and combine, leaving a light dusting on each piece. Pour the egg mixture on top and mix with your hands, making sure to coat all surfaces. In batches, use a large slotted spoon to carefully lay loosely formed handfuls of 6 to 8 slices into the hot oil and cook for about 2 minutes, turning as necessary until the okra is golden brown and uniformly crisp. Drain on a clean brown paper bag, season with sea salt, and serve with the tomato relish.
10 8 | cooking in the moment
tomato sandwich Alex and Betsy Hitt were the first farmers to sell heirloom tomatoes at the Carrboro farmers’ market almost thirty years ago, and each summer in mid-June they post a sign above their stand that reads: “Get your bread and mayonnaise ready—the tomato flood is coming!” A tomato sandwich–thick slices of dead-ripe tomatoes well seasoned with salt and pepper between slices of soft white sandwich bread spread with rich mayonnaise—is pure joy. Any attempt to “improve” it—toasting the bread, adding lettuce or, god forbid, basil—will only distract from perfection.
tomato sandwich Alex and Betsy Hitt were the first farmers to sell heirloom tomatoes at the Carrboro farmers’ market almost thirty years ago, and each summer in mid-June they post a sign above their stand that reads: “Get your bread and mayonnaise ready—the tomato flood is coming!” A tomato sandwich–thick slices of dead-ripe tomatoes well seasoned with salt and pepper between slices of soft white sandwich bread spread with rich mayonnaise—is pure joy. Any attempt to “improve” it—toasting the bread, adding lettuce or, god forbid, basil—will only distract from perfection.
garlic and black pepper soft-shell crabs serves 4
Vegetable oil, for frying 3 cups rice flour 3 teaspoons kosher salt ¼ cup freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup minced garlic ½ cup fish sauce 8 large soft-shell crabs, preferably jumbo or “whale” size, dressed and cut in half crosswise Fill a deep, heavy pot with a lid about one-third full with oil, and heat it until a deep-fat thermometer reads 375°F. In the meantime, combine the rice flour, salt, pepper, and garlic in a medium bowl. Put 1 tablespoon of the fish sauce in a small bowl. Dip each piece of crab very briefly into the fish sauce, gently shaking off excess, and then into the rice flour mix. Roll the crab over and shake off any extra flour. Set aside. Repeat this process, until all the crab halves are dredged. When the oil reaches 375°F, gently lay the crabs, top side down, in the oil. Don’t crowd the pot—if necessary, fry them in batches—and use the lid as needed when the crabs are first added to the oil to avoid splattering. After 1 to 2 minutes, when the crabs are golden brown, turn them over and cook for another 2 minutes. Drain on clean brown paper bags and eat hot.
s u m me r | s e p t e m b e r | 1 2 3
garlic and black pepper soft-shell crabs serves 4
Vegetable oil, for frying 3 cups rice flour 3 teaspoons kosher salt ¼ cup freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup minced garlic ½ cup fish sauce 8 large soft-shell crabs, preferably jumbo or “whale” size, dressed and cut in half crosswise Fill a deep, heavy pot with a lid about one-third full with oil, and heat it until a deep-fat thermometer reads 375°F. In the meantime, combine the rice flour, salt, pepper, and garlic in a medium bowl. Put 1 tablespoon of the fish sauce in a small bowl. Dip each piece of crab very briefly into the fish sauce, gently shaking off excess, and then into the rice flour mix. Roll the crab over and shake off any extra flour. Set aside. Repeat this process, until all the crab halves are dredged. When the oil reaches 375°F, gently lay the crabs, top side down, in the oil. Don’t crowd the pot—if necessary, fry them in batches—and use the lid as needed when the crabs are first added to the oil to avoid splattering. After 1 to 2 minutes, when the crabs are golden brown, turn them over and cook for another 2 minutes. Drain on clean brown paper bags and eat hot.
s u m me r | s e p t e m b e r | 1 2 3