Jeans Brand Report by CLASS_B2Fi

JEANS BRAND REPORT 2017 | B2Fi

Contributors Page 04

Introduction Page 06

Brand Analysis Page 08 - 87

Conclusion Page 88

References Page 90 - 102

CONTRIBUTORS Candyllene Santos Fortes

Flora Van Der Berg

Chevelly Hiralall

Debbie Somford

Ayla Kärcher

Ecaterina Vasilieva

Maëva Domingues

Gia-Tinh Lam

Natália Pažická

Esther Kroes

Lukas Schwering

Magda Domagala

Lara Möhrmann

INTRODUCTION

CONCLUSION

Leonie Michele-Aicholz Xenia Rechberger

EDITORS

DESIGNERS

“I wish I had invented blue jeans. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity - all I hope for in my clothes.” — Yves Saint Laurent

INTRODUCTION

hey are strong, unisex, fashionable and even sexy enough to be worn by anyone of any gender, age or religion. Billions and billions of jeans are worn daily and have become the most iconic wardrobe staple of all time around the world. They have changed from workwear to daily-wear while filling and changing the fashion world for the last 140 years. Their practical modesty is only one of the thousands of reasons people stick to them and have done so for so long. Yes! We are talking about one of the greatest American icons. Yes! We are talking about Jeans! Nowadays the denim industry is so big that it’s forecast to reach €66,1 billion in 2022. Where did it all start? Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis changed the entire history by creating this extraordinary piece of clothing from cotton cloth in the 1800s. The idea came from a need to strengthen workwear pants for the minorities, using metal rivets at points of strain. This resulted in an instant hit, and they used denim, as this fabric was typical for workwear at the time. In the 60s, jeans were not common in high society places such as restaurants, but in the 70s, designers such as Calvin Klein promoted jeans in their high-end shops. Eventually, between the 90s and the 00s, jeans became one of the most important items in the fashion industry. The denim industry is one not only filled with tradition and history but also with potential and creativity, which is why we have created this report. Nowadays there are countless denim brands selling what in essence is one, same product, which makes it a very competitive market. The report aims to create an overview by selecting brands that are spread across different sections of the market and researching them thoroughly. Each brand’s target group has been individually named and put into a generalised segment which helped to form conclusions about future targeting opportunities. To fulfill the core of this research, we have analysed many different areas while providing the reader with a structured overview. This report is based mainly on desk and field research, such as interviews and observations. We analyzed 20 different brands and our choice was based on their popularity, authenticity and importance in the jeans market. To introduce each brand to the reader we have decided to start with an introduction mainly focused on the brand’s birth. Per brand, we analyze these aspects in which branding plays an essential role, starting with the core of the brand’s identity through values and collections, to the pricing and ethical point of view. To spice it up a bit, each analysis finishes with a fun fact adding to the authenticity of our research. The layout for the analysis is divided into three colors, with camel representing premium-priced brands, indigo for medium-priced brands and khaki for low-priced brands. Through the research and analysis of these brands we aim to give a general insight and knowledge on the topic, while diving into specific questions to find out more about which brands that are associated with which target group. For the clear visual communication, the moodboard is implemented and follows each report to actually translate our research into images that are visually coherent for each brand. The end goal of this report is to give an idea of what the jeans market looks like and where the gaps in it can be found, as well as the possibilities that are born from these. Before going a step too far... let us get back to the jeans!

In 2000, Michael Glasser, Peter Koral and Jerome Dahan founded the first premium denim label in Los Angeles, California. Jeans were a necessity for everybody, however it was 7FAM that took the jeans and made them into a luxurious item worn by celebrities. ‘Designer jeans’ for the mass production; known for high quality materials, soft tailoring and its innovative use of fits, fabrics and finishes.

Vision Comfort can only be accomplished by a mixture of the perfect fit, fabric and finish.

Mission

7 For All Mankind Michael Glasser Peter Koral Jerome Dahan Est. 2000

Providing exclusivity for the sophisticated and stylish, by constant improvement of design.

Values Confident Innovation: Based in California, the denim centre for development worldwide, 7 For All Mankind sets its focus on innovation. The main aim is to develop new techniques and designs, in order to create a body-conscious fit. Sophisticated Comfort: All innovations have to lead to an enjoyable wearing experience without losing an elegant shape. Fashion-forward Luxury: To translate their values whilst keeping on track with the latest trends, the marketing team works closely with the design team. The brand tries to keep its exclusivity through new shapes, textures and fabrics. The concept of their retail environment is kept small and intimate to create the illusion of a boutique for a luxurious feel.

Target group Living in urban areas, the Busy Fabulous’ hectic lives require comfort, but also a sexy, sophisticated look. They are confident men and women in their mid-twenties till mid-thirties who fall into the segment of Modern Jugglers. In their daily routines, running from family care to their full-time jobs right up to elegant dinners, their outfits have to be comfortable yet elegant. The 7 For All Mankind denim is made for the real fashion lover with a budget above the average. Aware of the latest trends, the brand’s customers want to reflect their fashion know-how in their appearance. For the actual consumer, the jeans add an extra touch of Californian laidback self-awareness. To reach more customers, there is a new approach of targeting. A current interest is the inclusion of a younger generation by using colorful imagery and edgy it-girls for the new campaign. They attempt to handle the balance of a more youthful approach within their classic casual image.

Collection 7 FAM is known for their tight-fitting jeans with a low rise. In order to create ‘the perfect shaped body’, their patented fabrics range from the so called ‘Slim Illusion’ to the ‘B(air) Jeans’ with a focus on skinny jeans. The ‘intelligent denim’ section is an addition to the classics. Men are mostly interested in skinny and slim jeans. Therefore, there is a high demand in a broader variety of skinny jeans in the men’s section. The first launch involved only one style for women: the bootcut dark washed. Nowadays, the buyer appreciates the variety of styles, washes and fabrics. The company produces two collections per year, which encompasses Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter. The current A/W collection focuses on individuality and comes with vibrant patchwork designs. While still focusing on womenswear with sixteen different fits; the range of goods also implements nine fits for men, a variety of kids’ denim, accessories, sports- and footwear. 7FAM customer in her dark washed skinny jeans (Via Instagram, 2017)

Visual Identity The visualization and design of the brand are based on the Californian way of living: freedom combined with exclusivity. The idea matched with celebrities and their LA lifestyle perfectly. As brand ambassadors they reflect its luxurious image and until today the emotional connection of consumers to their idols are a huge factor of the immense success. Even swarovski stones used to be a luxurious adjustment on the pockets.

The 7 FAM logo is based on the idea, that every person should own 7 jeans; one for each day of the week. Nowadays, 7FAM develops 4 different pocket designs for 4 specific fits. The main communication goes through Social Media channels as for instance Instagram, Facebook and Twitter. Youtube used to be a key factor. However, due to the lack in consistency and a small amount of film material, rankings show a drop in consumers interest.

Key Message A pair of 7s will make you feel luxuriously comfortable. The key message is supported by the brand’s constant search for the ‘perfect fit’. The challenge is, to be consistent in the process of developing new technologies and weaving constructions, in order to make the fabrics less stiff and more flexible.

Retail environment The retail environment is designed with exquisite Zebrano woods, Italian marbles and textured fabrics to realize a pleasant, light environment. At the entrance of the store, womenswear is always placed. The waiting area reminds of a high class living room and conveys a feeling of ‘home’. Minimal, well chosen interior pieces in a muted color range.The mix of comfort and luxury is reflected not only in their designs but within the whole shopping experience. The company emphasizes their employees’ good denim education. Furthermore, they are ready to help, and show a good overall knowledge of denim and the brand. 7 FAM maintains an online as well as a physical store presence. The jeans are sold in over 80 countries in brick and mortar stores, luxury department stores and high-end specialty boutiques. Usually, they are located in well known streets next to designer brands and luxurious goods.

DJ- and It-Girl-twins Simi and Haze Khadra (Campaign AW 2017)

Price level The company offers high-quality fabrics and is mainly focused on patented techniques, which explains a higher price range. It starts with €150 and goes up to €350. Especially the affiliation with celebrities brought a huge success and justified the price of the jeans. Overall reviews show that there is a lack in the quality promise. Flaws after short time usage is not what the customer expects from the high price range.

Ethical point of view 7 For All Mankind offers a few models of 100% organic jeans, for which cotton is grown without environmentally threatening chemicals. Even though there is a sustainable approach, the main focus is not on the environment. The brand is open to share their data publically and to explain what the purposes of processing are. The number of visits is used for statistical purposes, and the surfing data for identification, which will be deleted after the processing.

Fun fact The men’s ‘Foolproof’ denim was created with the intent to design the most convenient jeans procedure for men: wash it, dry it, ready to wear. Ultimately, this aim actually required 2 years of trial and error: 20 prototypes were tested for which the denim went through 150 dryer tests.

7 For All Mankind Store, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

ELEGANC

COMFORT

SOPHISTICATED

Acne Studios (Acne standing for Ambition to Create Novel Expressions) is a multidisciplinary luxury fashion brand, based in Stockholm, Sweden. It was founded back in 1996 by the creative director Jonny Johannson. He launched his first pair of raw denim jeans in 1997 which boosted the brand’s popularity and demand for their products.

Vision Encouraging the modern framework for individuality.

Mission To design simple, functional, everyday fashion, that in turn create a much-desired aesthetic.

ACNE Jonny Johansson Est. 1996

Values Timeless Simplicity: Acne wants to simplify things for the wearer as much as possible. Casual denim that never goes out of style, which can easily be combined with a variety of garments, is important for the brand. Quality: Acne puts a lot of focus on choosing the right fabrics and techniques to achieve the best quality of their products. They make sure that the garments maintain their color and shape, and can serve their customers for years. Straightforwardness: Being direct in their designs is what Acne values. It’s a ‘what you see is what you get’ kind of mentality. The rest is up to the wearer, to decide what they do with the garment Acne gives them, leaving ideas and inspiration up to the wearer.

Target group The Simple Enjoyers (Free Independents) are 20 - 35 year olds who like to lead their life as easily as possible, yet still being their effortless selves. They like to go out with friends and do simple things, like grabbing a coffee and going on trips to capture nice moments. During their travels, they only pack what can be easily combined. Therefore, Acne Jeans for them is ideal, it’s such an easy garment with which you can create a variety of styles. Social media is Acne’s biggest outlet of promotion which helps their target group to stay upto-date with their new releases. The brand uses platforms such as Instagram to attract their audience.

Collection The simple aesthetic, easy to wear style is what makes Acne Jeans distinctive and sets them apart from other high-end brands. Their classic, five-pocket denim is timeless and high quality, making it wearable each year while never going out of style. They have a relatable style and are very straightforward in their denim designs, making it fashionable in the easiest, simplest way. Their denim collections are seasonal and are launched twice a year. However, from now on their denim collection will be launched under the new name Blå Konst. This has the same elements as their regular denim collection, but has a more high-end approach, giving their brand a touch of exclusivity.

Visual Identity

Target group of Acne Jeans as seen on Instagram

Acne’s minimalistic aesthetics are striking due to its colors and sculptural shapes. The visuals of Acne Jeans focus on their effortlessness, yet modern identity. This refers to their entire brand Acne Studios, which is known for its contemporary, minimalistic approach in fashion. Their photoshoots are either done from a more high fashion approach, or a very contemporary, product focused approach. For their denim line, it is the latter. They really put emphasis on the denim, how it falls on the body, and most importantly how simple, yet stylish their style is. Their logo is also created in a simple font, with a small design of their fashion house in Stockholm, which represents their roots. What makes Acne Jeans different from other brands, is that they use their timeless designs and add small changes in their style to keep it classic, while still being a high-end, fashion forward brand.

Key Message Acne values individualism and being able to give their customers something they can wear as often and as long as possible. They believe that if you buy their products, you will be fashionable without losing your individuality. They create denim that can be used as a blank canvas, the basic style is there, but the authenticity is added by the person wearing it. There is a range of choice the customers can choose from and the quality of each denim product is from high quality, offering the wearer a long-time experience wearing Acne denim.

Retail environment Acne Jeans is sold in Acne Studios stores all around the world, which are over 45 stores including flagship stores in the fashion cities of the world. Their retail environment for the flagship stores is influenced by their surroundings, depending on which country or city its are in. They use spatial design to create a unique atmosphere, to showcase their products in an exhibition-like way. Every retail environment shares the same elements of a contemporary, minimalistic style. These elements derive from Scandinavian interior design, which is known for its simplistic style using a balance between space and the objects and their products. Their denim collection is displayed similarly in their stores with the contrast between light and dark colors. Light colors being used for their walls and floors and dark colors for their furniture. This gives it a feeling of calmness and looks very clean and modest.

Campaign new denim line BlĂĽ Konst

Price level The price level of Acne Jeans is in the high segment and ranges from â&#x201A;Ź190 to â&#x201A;Ź330, which is a bit more expensive for a pair of regular jeans. According to Acne they can be seen as an investment for the wearer. Owning a pair of jeans from Acne Jeans means they will last for years, the wearer can be as creative as possible when it comes to styling, and the denim will still be in great shape.

Ethical point of view Since 2008, Acne Studios/Acne Denim have been members of the Fair Wear Foundation (FWF). This foundation helps Acne to monitor and improve labor conditions. They work according to fair labor standards and receive an annual report on their results and progress which is done by a brand performance check company. This report is also shown in their social report, thus making them transparent, as they show how ethical they are and which actions they take to be ethical. Their ethical contribution is also more about doing what is right for them as a brand, but also for the people that contribute to the process of making the products and the customers who buy it. It gives a clear indication of where they stand on fair labor and sustainability.

Fun fact Before Acne Studios started, they first launched a hundred pair of raw denim jeans and gave it to their friends, families and photographers. They had a signature red stitch on jeans making them so unique. This has led to their booming popularity back in the late nineties. Acne Studios Dover Street in London

CONTEMPORARY

EFFORTLESS

VERSATILE

In 1989, 100 years after Carhartt’s establishment in Detroit, Edwin Faeh, a Swiss native started to represent a small range of Carhartt workwear in 1989. Five years later, the Carhartt Work In Progress distribution network was set up in Europe. Since the beginning, Carhartt WIP is seen as a real emblem of underground culture and is evolving into an iconic streetwear brand. Vision The world is in a constant movement. Mission We provide enduring and functional apparel for an urban active lifestyle.

CARHARTT Edwin Faeh Est. 1989

Values Durability: Taking inspiration from their rich workwear heritage, the brand continues to maintain high standards of quality and therefore durability. Carhartt WIP products tend to be worn for years. Authenticity: Staying true to yourself and not letting go of your heritage is very much integrated into the brand’s DNA. With the subcultural movement at the core of the brand, authenticity is of high importance for their image. Carhartt WIP is still a family owned business, which makes it even more credible. Functionality: Since its inception in 1889, Carhartt’s mission has been to create enduring apparel for working people. Nowadays tailoring for an urban active lifestyle, Carhartt WIP is committed to produce comfortable and well functioning products.

Target group The Urban Adventurers (Free Independent) prefer consistency in style, avoid fleeting trends and value authenticity and loyalty. They are mostly men between 20 - 30 years old who live an active, urban lifestyle. Being a part of countercultural groups with interests such as skateboarding and BMX, they desire functional and durable products they can use anytime. They are often committed fans of Hip Hop music. The Urban Adventurer favors Carhartt WIP for its longevity and value for money. Sharing the same interest in music and especially in new and upcoming artists, Soundcloud functions as their radio platform. Events such as special launches (stores, collaborations), parties, skateboarding events and book releases are what keep them connected to the brand.

Collection A Carhartt WIP collection can be characterized by its longevity and functionality. Timeless designs, with rather simple and loose fits give each collection a coherent style. They are combined with high quality fabrics that ensure the durability of Carhartt WIP products. Garments designed for multi-purposes, give the wearer the freedom for an urban active lifestyle. By adding several pockets, the functionality of the product is ensured. Collections are released twice a year, however, collaborations are done throughout the year. Carhartt’s collections are authentic and recognizable. The designs have been contemporary and consistent since the establishment of the brand. ‘Staying true to your roots’ is very much integrated into the brands DNA. Signature pieces are the workwear jackets, the Khaki pants, and parkas. The Hamilton brown is a key color that every collection includes. The logo on any product is definitely an important part of Carhartt WIP’s branding.

Visual Identity

Carhartt target group

The overall look and feel of the brand is an authentic one, rather contemporary than innovative. Carhartt WIP’s DNA, being the ever-evolving brand without losing its true roots, is communicated by its logo. The big C, which basically looks like a constant movement in itself, refers perfectly to the Work In Progress name. In a photographic clever way, Carhartt WIP’S visual communication is focusing on the subcultural evolution. The campaigns encourage urbanity and authenticity, referring to the subcultural groups surrounding them. Furthermore, releasing skate magazines and books made by their own skate team, Carhartt is proving their authenticity and loyalty to the target group. Showing their heritage of workwear in the lookbook, the brand displays the quality and durability of the products through visual communication. Carhartt WIP distinguish themselves from other brands through the authenticity they communicate within their subcultural interests.

Key Message Carhartt WIP is communicating that if you buy their products you will be integrated in the subcultures they are a part of. Using brand ambassadors with subcultural backgrounds for campaigns and supporting skate events, Carhartt WIP creates a connection between customers and subcultures. While the emotional value of Carhartt’s culture is highly important, the product itself also sends a message. Maintaining high standards on quality and durability, their products are required for an urban, active lifestyle.

Retail environment The overall feel of a Carhartt WIP store is urban, with an eye for detail. There is neon branding in every store and campaign shoots are hanging on the walls, giving an insight into the brands subcultural feel. The retail environment consists of industrial materials mixed with natural elements, which relates to the heritage in authentic workwear. Designed with a clear inspiration from urban settings with the use of steel and square shapes, the stores stay functional with a lot of space. Carhartt WIP has its own stores in 20 different metropolises around the world. Concluding, the retail experience gives a good insight into the brand’s DNA with a focus on quality.

Carhartt WIP Fall/Winter 2017 campaign

Price level Carhartt WIP is a middle sector market brand. The prices for denim are between €70-200. Carhartt is a brand likely to collaborate with different artists and other brands. Collaborations may differ in the pricing range, depending on the collaborative partner. Influenced by the good quality and the prices of other streetwear competitors, Carhartt WIP justifies its price.

Ethical point of view Doing “the just and honest thing, gainful if possible” is stated as one of Carhartt WIP’s core principles. They have taken steps ensuring that those principles are upheld throughout the process. Establishing a code of conduct with the minimum set of standards, Carhartt WIP can’t be noted as a sustainable leader, but aims for ethically manufactured products. The code covers environmental, human rights and labor challenges. Authorized subcontractors make sure that the standards are met. However Carhartt WIP is trying to boost its image by supporting a sustainable lifestyle through events such as the sustainable music festival Terraforma in Italy. As a member of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Carhartt WIP is committed to increase the sourcing of Better Cotton in its collection year on year. They communicate the code of conduct via their website and a booklet, which is available in store.

Fun fact Hosting parties, sponsoring its own skate team and having its own record company Combination Records, Carhartt WIP is more than just a fashion brand. Via a journal, they archive the brand’s activities accessible for an outsider. Moreover Edwin Faeh, the founder of Carhartt WIP, runs his street art gallery named COLAB in Germany. Carhartt WIP Store Hartenstraat in Amsterdam, the Netherlands

AU URBAN

UTHENTIC

SUBCULTURAL

Cheap Monday was created by Orjan Andersson and Adam Friberg. They founded the store Weekday in Stockholm, that carried both exclusive denim brands and secondhand pieces. Since many of the jeans sold in the store were so expensive, Andersson felt there was a need for more affordable, yet on-trend denim, which resulted in the start of Cheap Monday in 2004.

Vision We envision a ‘no bullsh*t’-world in which quality and style are affordable.

Mission Creating low-price designs with attitude, whilst respecting Mother Nature at the same time.

Cheap Monday Orjan Andersson Adam Friberg Est. 2004

Values Expression: Cheap Monday has always been an expressive brand. It started with the original logo; a skull with an inverted cross on its forehead. Designer Bjorn Atldax wanted to create an active statement against Christianity. Even though the cross has disappeared from the logo, certain designs can still be associated with Satanic or Illuminati symbolism. Affordability: Cheap Monday was founded out of the need for denim that’s on-trend, but affordable. Today still, a pair of Cheap Monday jeans retails for around 50 euros. Quality: Founders Andersson and Friberg have been focused on quality from the start. In their communication they have been open about their wish of creating jeans that would be comparable to high-end denim in quality. Sustainability: Sustainability wasn’t originally a value of Cheap Monday, but the last few years, the brand has been extremely focused on producing in a more sustainable way.

Target group Cheap Monday targets Rebellious Urbanites; a group consisting of a mix of cool students (Free Independents) and not-so-cute teenagers (Young Dependents) in the age category of 15 - 25 years old. The Rebellious Urbanites see fashion as a way to express themselves, which is why they respond well to Cheap Monday’s ‘No Bullsh*t Jeanswear’-slogan. They like that the brand’s denim is unisex, as for them gender doesn’t decide which clothes to wear. The RU listen to indie or grunge music, use social media as a way to share their style with their friends, and are more conscious about the environment than their parents, who have, to them, ruined this planet. Cheap Monday speaks to them through the organisation of parties and performances in their flagship stores, quirky and one-off campaigns, such as the ‘Customised by nature’ project, or competitions on social media, like for instance the Instagram based #TightAlright competition.

Collection Cheap Monday’s jeans are characterized by the placement of the skull logo on buttons and labels. The brand offers seasonal collections, with three drops per season, for both men and women, which consist mainly of unisex jeans, but also include other types of clothing, accessories, sunglasses and shoes, in materials such as PVC, faux fur, velvet and more. Brand values such as quality and sustainability can be seen in the use of fabrics and finishings. Jeans of Cheap Monday are known to last longer than ones from most high street brands, and since this year, all denim is labelled with the ‘Sustainable’ hangtag. Also, the expressive side can be seen in collaborations with like minded designers, such as Faustine Steinmetz. The signature style of Cheap Monday jeans is the Tight, the first model the brand became famous for, and still, the tighter models are best sellers.

Visual Identity Photographer Nicola Rehbein is the ultimate Cheap Monday customer, with his ‘cool student’ vibe

The visual identity of Cheap Monday feels like a mix between punk rock and fun, and is a good match for the brand’s values. On the website, hand drawn elements can be found, which link back to the expressive value. The visual translation of affordability can be seen on the website, as it is easily accessible and welcoming. The qualitative element can be seen in the photography and the campaigns. There is a focus on the clothes, which are portrayed in the iconic minimalistic Scandinavian way, which for many people has a connotation of quality. Sustainability can be found in certain campaign shots, like the ones from the ‘Customised by nature’ project. Also, a green color has been added to the skull logo whenever sustainability is addressed. In comparison to other brands, Cheap Monday has the look of a high-end brand in the price range of a high street brand, which makes them distinctive.

Key Message The key message of Cheap Monday is mainly focused around expression. A rebellious “Express yourself!” would be a good fit. This can be seen in the denim collections, in which all designs can be worn by both men and women in any which way they like, which is made clear on the brand’s Instagram account where they share the ways their customers wear their products. Also, on Twitter, the brand speaks freely with their customers, in a way that a high end brand would never be able to.

Retail environment Cheap Monday is sold in over 1800 stores worldwide, five of which are flagship stores, in the Cheap Monday online store, and other online stores such as ASOS. When looking at the flagship stores in Copenhagen, Beijing and Paris, for instance, the punk rock vibe that Cheap Monday was originally known for, is still there. Dark, basement-like spaces, accessorized with a lot of metal and neon lights, and covered with the grinning skull logo. Jeans are stacked in small cabinets from either metal or cheap wood. It’s clear that the main focus is still denim, as jeans are the center of every flagship store.

The Pre Spring 2016 campaign gives a clear impression of one of the brand’s values, expression

Price level Cheap Monday falls in the lower segment of the market, as a pair of jeans retails for around €40 - 50. As the brand is very peculiar about the quality of their garments, the lower price doesn’t imply that the jeans are of lower quality.

Ethical point of view Cheap Monday has made it clear through their website and interviews that their ambition is to be the most relevant and most sustainable jeanswear brand on the street, which is something that they’re trying to achieve through their ‘C/O Cheap Monday’-initiative. This initiative includes increasing focus on more sustainable denim finishing processes, and the use of eco-friendly materials. Cheap Monday also encourages their customers to take great care of their items with tips on the website, or to recycle them, as all of the flagship stores have clothing collecting bins inside. The website is very transparent about what they call sustainable: it mentions that a garment must contain a minimum of 50% sustainable materials to be labelled ‘Sustainable’ for Cheap Monday. When it comes to social responsibility, no information can be found on the website or in other sources.

Fun fact Current creative director Carl Malmgren was Cheap Monday’s first customer and employee.

The Cheap Monday flagship store in Copenhagen

SUSTAINABLE

AFFORDABLE

QUALITY

Denham was founded in 2008 in Amsterdam by Jason Denham who decided to transform his years of experience in the jeans industry into his own label. The DNA of Denham has originated from the obsession of the maker. Jason Denham collects vintage pieces, from jeans to old tailor scissors. These items are essential to him because he believes you can only innovate if you know the history of the product.

Vision Creating premium quality products that balance innovation with a respect for tradition and attention to detail.

Mission Worship tradition, destroy convention.

DENHAM Jason Denham Est. 2008

Values Tradition: Founder Jason Denham uniquely balances progressive and innovative design with respect for the craftsmanship and tradition of classic jeans making. In some way you can say it’s a breaking of conventions, but in Jason’s philosophy you have to understand the history and tradition of jeans in order to design them. Innovation: According to Denham, traditions aren’t honoured by blind mindless repetition. Traditions are advanced through systematically challenging convention in a continual search for improvement. Craftsmanship: The answer to what makes Denham stand out from hundreds of other premium denim brands, can be found in the company motto, ‘the truth is in the detail’, which becomes evident when you take a closer look at the products.

Target group Denham has no fixed age group attached to the brand. The wearers of Denham jeans can be seen as one tribe with the name ‘Fine Print Enthusiasts’. They share similarities with the characteristics of the ‘Modern Jugglers’ segment. With one of the similarities being their interest in jeans. The story behind the brand is important for these people. They like to invest in special pants that are of such quality, that they can be worn for a long time. It is a group that already has some knowledge of denim and therefore appreciates the attention, time and detail. They are true ‘denimheads’. The Denham user group is fairly close to the target group. The hashtag #Denham shows many customers who proudly show off their pair of jeans. In the stores the details of the pants are regularly being discussed. According to the in-store staff, the ages and styles of the customers are sometimes far apart, but they always come for the brand and what it has to offer.

Collection The distinguishing factor of Denham is mainly in the product itself. The stitches, details and models, and the combination of old and new make the Denham jeans. The key details are the 7-point-pocket, the signature heritage one-piece fly placket and the chain stitch scissors logo. Of all these elements, the 7-Point-Pocket is the most iconic. If you draw a line around your hand, the shape will have 7 points, not 5. For Denham this is symbolic of the hand of the worker for whom workwear was originally created, and the hand of the jeanmaker as well. When Denham launched, all of its jeans featured a signature 7-point pocket. This element still appears on all Denham jeans in the traditional coin pocket (which is 7-point), and it also appears on special edition models.

Visual Identity

People sharing their #Denham outfit next to the customized ‘Amsterdammetjes’ on Instagram

Denham makes little or no use of traditional campaign expressions. Jason Denham thinks it’s challenging to do it differently. Thus, he launched a promo movie named ‘Denham Psycho’, a parody on the movie ‘American Psycho’, which simultaneously paid a lot of attention to the products. The film went viral and Denham launched a second movie in the same style. The sense of detail and the love for jeans are prominent in this regard. Storytelling is an important part of Denham’s promotion. Consumers do not only want to see the product, but they also follow the brand and know all about it. One of the reasons Denham is very active on social media, is to share as much as possible. On the platforms, something is shared every day so the group of followers stay involved and Denham’s story can be brought forward. Stories can also be seen in the brand’s photo campaigns. The campaign ‘From virgin to vintage’ is a clear example of this.

Key Message The overall identity of the brand can be described as modern craftsmanship. The combination of vintage and modern has therefore been implemented in the overall look of the brand. The logo is a combination of an old tailor’s scissors and one of Jason’s first scissors from his collection. It symbolises two blades that work together. The figurative mark is combined with a sans serif typeface. There are hardly any reviews written about the brand. Online information often deals with collaborations, new stores or interviews published on fashion sites like Elle or Vogue. The information that Denham itself puts on their website can also be found in interviews or articles about the brand. The Denham brand is therefore a relatively coherent story.

Retail environment The retail environment of Denham is a place where all of the aforementioned elements come together. Clean white walls and mirrors give the jeans a leading role in the store, and the wooden floors, industrial furniture and wall art refer to the vintage atmosphere Denham’s inspiration came from. The atmosphere is friendly and the staff knows a lot about the jeans. To help the customers after a purchase, there is a service where customers can repair their jeans. The presentation, knowledge and attention to small things allow the brand philosophy to flow through the store as a thread. Denham stores are often located in creative, cultural centers like the Nine Streets in Amsterdam. These locations are deliberately chosen by the brand because it fits better with their brand philosophy. By placing the offices and shops in one place they try to create the feeling of a ‘home base’. The Denham buildings are recognizable by a white exterior with blue borders and details, so you link the different stores and offices at just a glance.

Denham x Marc Haers FW15 Campaign

Price level Denham strives for the best quality. The fabrics that are being used come from Italy or Japan and making a pair of Japanese Denham jeans takes eighty hours, in contrary to the seventeen minutes for brandless pants. The price of a pair of Denham jeans starts at €130 and rises up to €500. The brand is positioned in the premium segment. It’s growing global retail network reaches over 20 countries, including key stores in Amsterdam, Antwerp, Hamburg, Tokyo, Osaka and Sydney. Denham is based in Amsterdam, with satellite offices in Düsseldorf, Shanghai and Tokyo.

Ethical point of view Denham is not specific about their sustainability policy. The brand does not want to reduce in quality, in their opinion, quality leads to longer use and thus indirectly to sustainability. By communicating nothing specific about the policies for environment, carbon emissions or labor conditions in low-wage countries, Denham has earned the lowest possible sustainability score. For the consumers, it is unclear whether Denham is committed to sustainability or not.

Fun fact Throughout Jason Denham’s career, he has collected over 2,000 pairs of tailoring scissors, each with a unique story and past. But there’s one scissor that’s the most important: his first pair of tailor’s shears which he bought at university in the 1970s, and which inspired the brand’s iconic logo. Denham store in The Hague, the Netherlands

CRAFTSMANSHIP

TRADITION

P INNOVATION

Diesel is an international apparel company founded in 1978 by Renzo Rosso, established in Molvena, Italy. The name DIESEL was created out of an idealistic state of mind because of the meaning ‘alternative energy’ and the international understanding and accessibility. Diesel is well known for its surreal and provocative advertising campaigns and is since 2013 under the creative lead of Nicola Formichetti.

Vision Rebellion against the norm should be ironic and unexpected.

Mission Pushing statements forward in a rebellious and provocative way to envision the idealistic lifestyle.

DIESEL Renzo Rosso Est. 1978

Values Creative freedom: Diesel believes in living a lifestyle where the individual creates their own territory by making up their rules. The brand is using their freedom in terms of creativity by experimenting on a provocative level. Individuality: Diesel focuses on the individual by taking lead in inspiring and supporting the development of the person itself. They communicate mainly through campaigns where they focus on creating a certain desire to be authentic, outstanding and rebellious. Provocative: “For successful living” is the so-called ‘sarcastic’ slang of Diesel. Diesel mixes a cheeky, humorous and rebellious attitude in a glamourous way. Diesel is being provocative in terms of approaching their audience in unexpected, big and bold ways. Social-awareness: The social-minded character of Diesel can mostly be seen in campaigns, where no-nonsense questions are being asked on behalf of political/socially involved topics.

Target group The Modern Rebels are the confident, fearless and keen men and women with an ironic and humoristic state of mind. They are conscious of the importance to look good, and rely on social status, quality and exclusivity. The targeted age is 20 - 35 years old. Endless variety in styles, the Italian fit and the rebellion look of Diesel makes the Modern Rebel a committed customer. They live in cities where they study and work as well. Since they are conscious about their way of living, they find it important to find a balance between work and spare time. In terms of shopping, they see the art in combining high-street fashion with local and exclusive designers. The way of living and being, fits into the segmentation of ‘Free Independents’, where pursuing their passion and having a social life is important. Diesel connects with them through street advertising, social media and digital networks like applications and collaborations with famous network channels.

Collection Diesel seeks to produce around 3000 new products each year. The collection is divided in four seasonal drops a year. The core products are the jeans. Diesel offers a broad variety in washes and fits. This shows a certain dedication to its authenticity, heritage and history. Although styles are changing, the jeans can be characterized by a few details: The ‘low rise’ fit, which is perceived as the ‘sexy’ Italian fit, and on the front side of the jeans, a white ‘Diesel Industry’ label is attached on the pocket. The jeans are famous for their destroyed look, with which Renzo Rosso became one of the first in the denim industry. The difference between campaigns and actual collections, is having creative input and being commercially strong as an output. Although Formichetti sees himself as an ‘anti-trend’ person, the collection is in general strongly commercial and ‘trendy’. This contradicts the free and creative mind of its campaigns. Then again, being rebellious is a state of mind, not a way of dressing.

Visual Identity

Diesel customer @ivan_d2 (Via Instagram, 2017) 28

In order to be distinctive, Diesel created a bold, rebellious feel with a humorous touch in the way they represent the brand. This feeling is translated on different levels within the visual identity of Diesel. Logo wise, the white and thick typography added on the black background, gives a clear and bold statement. Campaign wise, it’s about communicating a certain lifestyle on a provocative and ironic level.

Diesel uses the campaign as a new starting point for their way of in-store branding: They showcase their collection through lookbooks and visual merchandising. The store is darkly colored combined with rough materials and dimmed lighting. This creates an urban feeling while variety in design gives the store a playful attitude. Since the design is strongly commercial, the provocative value of the brand is clearly missing.

Key Message Diesel wants the wearer to be able to stand out with ‘the lifestyle’. That’s what makes the difference between owning and wearing Diesel in their perspective. Loaded with irony and mockery, the brand is reminding you that you can live successfully and be a rebel at the same time. They aim to let the audience strive to a certain lifestyle which is depending on living against the norm, standing out as an individual and leading in breaking taboos on social and political levels. Individualism is something they value a lot when it comes to the way of wearing, in order to be different. Diesel is keen on a certain attitude which depends on a provocative, humorous and rebellious way of branding.

Retail environment After the success of the first international flagship stores, they continued to open 400 stores which makes it 5000 selling points in total. The stores are located on A-locations in wealthy areas in urban cities. The stores are different in design, depending on location and store type. Although the design differs, the stores have the same characteristics. The modern industrial design and its variety in presentation represents the rebellious and urban state of mind. The jeans section is the heart of the store, surrounded by heavy industrial design. Compared to the men’s department, the women’s department is balanced between softness and Diesel’s rough components. The brand experience contains a variety in design, employees, music, in-store campaigns and POS material. The overall in-store experience has a luxurious feeling with an accessible and urban atmosphere.

“Go with the flaw” (Campaign, 2017)

Price level Diesel promotes itself as a leading pioneer in denim into the world of premium casual wear, being an alternative to the luxury market. It is notable that their price ranges are more suitable for the middle market. The prices are between €130 - €350. They often have exceptions where styles can be up to €1000 depending on the material, wash and limitation.

Ethical point of view Diesel is part of the Only The Brave (OTB) group founded by Renzo Rosso. The OTB group is a platform set up by fashion brands in the luxury market, where their mission is to build brands for a new type of consumers by enabling development, challenging the rules and supporting creativity, one of Diesel’s values. They support the OTB foundation to fight social inequality when contributing to sustainable developments. However, Diesel discloses less about its supply chain and environmental impact. It’s not known under which conditions their suppliers work and in what way Diesel is being sustainable, they are not transparent in facts about their ethical and sustainable approach. Rank-a-Brand gave Diesel an E rating, which is the lowest rating. Being unethical and sustainable incorrect goes against the picture perfect politically correct campaigns of Diesel.

Before Diesel started, Renzo Rosso began stitching jeans on his mother’s sewing machine at the age of fifteen. He produced low-riding, bell-bottomed jeans. He would wear them himself and sell them to his friends for 3500 lira a piece.

Jeans section men. Diesel store, Amsterdam (2017)

DEDICATIO

FREEDOM

PROVOCATIVE

DrDenim is a Swedish denim brand created in 2004 by the brothers Alexander and Johannes Graah, with the help of their father Morten. The brand went from a garage in Gothenburg to being one of Sweden’s biggest players within the jeans fashion industry.

Vision Every day is a denim day.

Mission We create affordable designs for every occasion.

DRDENIM Alexander, Johannes and Morten Graah Est. 2004

Values Timelessness: One of the main focuses of DrDenim is to create garments that are wearable for any occasion. To do so, the brand stays simple in the cuts and style, so that the customer can always wear it, despite the change of zeitgeist. Comfort: As one of the founders puts it: “Being comfortable in what you wear, makes you feel comfortable in your own skin, it boosts your confidence. I find it empowering.” As DRDENIM wants to create garment that are wearable in all times, the comfort of all creations is a major priority for the brand. Contemporary:The founders have the goal to make denim, which is a fashion item with a rich heritage, feel contemporary. To do so they showcase their simple denim designs in a contemporary urban context bringing a fresh and modern feel to the denim industry.

Target group The Urban Carefree Youngsters have a rich social life, like to live in the moment and love to feel comfortable yet fashionable. They are people in their late teenage years or early twenties who are strongly connected to the social media platforms with which they grew up. However, they still enjoy being outdoors within the city. Their carefreeness expresses itself in the way they think of success. They do not strive to have a great career and high income. Instead, they focus on personal growth and self expression. To reach these youngsters, the brand communicates mainly on social media, portraying rebellious and nonchalant looking models in urban settings. However, their last video, launched for the new collection, has been seen only 42 times, testifying of a target group not so involved with the brand. The question we can ask ourselves is then, are people buying those jeans because they identify themselves with the brand, or just because they simply are of a lower price with a rather good quality?

Collection Simple cuts with a focus on comfort and universal designs that fit every occasion are what defines DrDenim. Releasing two seasonal collections and two small subcollections a year, the brand always presents a wide range of basics complemented with styles that go more accordingly with the current trends, with a simplicity specific to the Scandinavian aesthetics. As the purpose of this brand is to offer denim products that are wearable for any occasion, eccentricity and boldness are not something that can be found in the collections, but rather timeless pieces which allow the customers to be able to wear DrDenim at any moment.

Visual Identity

Picture of a customer wearing a DrDenim overall.

The overall visual identity of the brand is contemporary, carefree, and urban. All through the visuals of this brand we can find an aesthetic that is coherent with the values of the brand. A message of freedom within an urban setting, with a fresh and young spirit is conveyed. Despite simple garments, we can find a strong personality coming through any photographs showcasing the collections. It always refers back to a carefree and authentic urban youngsters attitude. The logo is simple, made out of black and white, yet it evokes an expertise. A thick simple dash is testifying of the timelessness of the brand, followed by DrDenim Jeansmaker referring to the savoir-faire and quality of the brand.

Key Message “With our products you can live a carefree life and be authentic you wherever you are.” While the first goal of this brand was to create affordable jeans of good quality, when we take in consideration the branding story and the way they sell their products, the main message is not focused on the price but rather on the ‘emotional effects’ of the jeans when you wear them. We can see that mainly through their campaigns shot as well as on their social media where young models are posing in urban settings in unapologetic ways. This message is very coherent with the brand DNA, which is also to provide jeans that you can wear at any occasion and still feel confident and true to yourself.

Retail environment Created in Sweden, the brand has two stores exclusively selling their products with a Flagship store in Stockholm and a retail store in Göteborg. Translating their values through a retail experience, the stores are designed in alignment with the brand DNA. Designed with a clear inspiration from urban settings with the use of steel and square shapes, the stores stay simple, welcoming and functional with a lot of space. Fitting with the simplistic Scandinavian style the colors remain basic with the use of mainly black, white and grey. However, some touches of woods and vegetation are placed within the store to give a welcoming and friendly aspect to the brand. A large number of their products can also be found in department stores all around Europe, such as Gallerie Lafayette, Samsoe&Samsoe and We Are Labels, allowing them to build their name internationally. The products are also available in many online stores such as ASOS, Frontmen and Nelly.

Photo from the advertisement campaign for the Fall/Winter collection 2017

Price level DrDenim is a low price brand. The team puts a constant effort into finding innovative ways and techniques which allow the brand to create high quality products which stays under 100 euros. The creators of the brand refer to this as a science, as they constantly experiment with new materials and methods to achieve this goal to the best of their ability.

Ethical point of view DrDenim is a participant in the Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSC) which is a system that requires the brand to obey a code of conduct containing principles such as no discrimination, a fair remuneration, decent working hours, and no child labour. Not only active on the social side, they also desire to be a sustainable brand and have as an aim to use primary sustainable fibers by 2022 in their collections. Articles made in sustainable ways are specified with the tags - Organic Cotton, Sustainable Fibres or Recycled Fibres. However, at the moment only few articles have this label. Their designs avoid the use of fur or feathers in collections. On those few items where they use leather in their production, their policy states that such leather has to be made from leftovers from the food sector and has to not contain any leather from animals raised solely for the making of clothing.

Fun fact DRDENIM’s first prototype jeans were a complete failure and are still to this day locked in a locker in their main office.

DrDenim flagship store in Stockholm, Sweden.

CAREFREE

URBAN

TIMELESS

Many argue that EVISU is one of the first brands to make denim collectible. The brand, founded by Yamane Hidehiko in 1991, is not only famous for its unique character but also for introducing The Replica Movement and Japanese selvedge denim to the world.

Vision The best version of you is the one fearlessly created with passion, authenticity and a touch of humor.

Mission With outstanding quality, the treasures of tradition and unmistakable personality, EVISU provides you with a product as special as you.

EVISU Yamane Hidehiko Est. 1991

Values Tradition: The value of tradition is a foundation for everything the brand does. Understood on different levels, one being their Japanese heritage and the other the classic pair of jeans, both elements EVISU wouldn’t exist without today. Boldness: EVISU makes sure that they are always unapologetically themselves, while adding a youthful and playful element. Uniqueness: Being unique goes beyond exclusivity and character. It means stubbornly making a point out of always standing out from the others in every way possible, even if it means being misunderstood or laughed at. Passion: Passion is the intangible element sparking creativity equally in the brand and consumer, who must have an eye for good artistic expression.

Target group The Creative Connoisseurs (Young Dependents and Free Independents) are people from any age that are young at heart. They would buy into EVISU because it provides them with a tool to stand out while being a part of a subculture made up out of internet-age creatives. These open minded yet, knowledge filled people are mostly male and have money to spend on collectibles worthy of it. Recently EVISU tilted towards a more contemporary mindset by, for example, capturing the online community’s attention with curated and outspoken social media content and unexpected collaborations such as with Durex Condoms. At the same time, they make sure to be found exclusively at urban fashion hotspots where their target group is known to hang out.

Collection EVISU’s collections are characterized by perfected classic denim garments, on top of which they have managed to rework their iconic elements, including the pockets and the seagull logo, in playful and creative ways. In other words, combining the best of the old with the best of the new. Officially, they present two main collections a year adding up to their continuous “Genes, Heritage and Private stock” collections. To the previously mentioned, we can also add collaborative collections and spin-offs, like for example EVISUKURO, a sporty technology orientated collection inspired by Bosozuku culture. Quality is shown in the choice of materials and the construction, while tradition can be found in the old-school and Japanese culture references. Through creativity and once again quality, they manage to express their passion. In conclusion, there is indeed a signature EVISU look made up out of all the discussed elements.

Visual Identity

Creative connoisseurs gather around a concept store in Amsterdam

EVISU has a very strong visual identity in which they manage to balance out the playful and bold elements with the traditional vintage feel, as is key in the brand’s philosophy. Videos, runway presentations and look books are some of the channels through which the brand showcases their collection. Although still confident, the visual identity in the previously mentioned seems less clear due to their lack of uniformity and representation of core values. They make a point out of the obsessive use of characteristics that include the following: unique tags displaying the EBISU god, logo-filled pockets, the seagull print, traditional leather denim tags with a Japanese print on top, color-blocking and the use of surprising elements. Together they make up a series of small details that distinguish EVISU from any other jean brand.

Key Message The key message is ultimately about making a statement against fast fashion. EVISU sees their denim as collectibles and art pieces that have a high level in design, quality, character and exclusivity. In other words, a garment that is a part of you, expresses you and grows with you and therefore is a lifetime investment. They work towards reaching this ‘ultimate product’ by pushing their views and ideals not only in the way it is produced but also promoted and sold. The message comes across on a deeper and more subtle level, as this endless search for a better, more individual and unique product is worked into every single detail of the brand and garment rather than one aspect of it.

Retail environment

EVISU x Terry Richardson Campaign

The interior design of the store depends on a number of factors, making each one a world of its own. They incorporate their vision by combining the traditional and youthful elements through exaggeration, which in turn also insures ultimate authenticity. Besides the stores’ differences, they all share a high level of customer interaction and a look into the production process, as well as the repetition of design elements and a vintage feel. Officially, EVISU counts 173 locations in 13 countries’ most trendy areas. They also have an online store, flagship stores, concept stores, pop-up stores and exhibitions, each and every one different in concept, design and stock from the other. Despite their differences the stores are bound by EVISU’s signature vision and character. The brand is also a favorite amongst curated concept stores like Atelier New York and high-end department stores including Selfridges and Harvey Nichols.

Price level The brand falls under the premium price level. Average prices for a pair of jeans go from €300 - €600, with the most expensive pairs reaching close to €2000. EVISU items are also commonly known to have big resale value. The reflection of the price can be seen in the quality and production method, each pair taken care of with ultimate devotion and passion by people who are experts on the field of exclusivity.

Ethical point of view When it comes to the ethical point of view of the brand there are conflicting opinions. It is safe to say that EVISU takes a sustainable and ethical point of view when it comes to its mindset regarding clothing as a durable item rather than a disposable one. The brand communicates a lot about the history and methods of the production as well as the materials used, such as cotton and Japanese selvedge denim and shows some transparency in this aspect. However, EVISU fails to show transparency when it comes to other aspects. It is really hard to find information on their CSR, positioning regarding sustainability and social matters. There is also no cause the brand openly supports or endorses, which raises many questions on where it stands ethically.

Fun fact The name EVISU stems from the Japanese term EBISU. EBISU being a Japanese God known for symbolizing prosperity through things like fishing and money, which also happened to be a few of the founder’s favorites. The unexpected interior of an EVISU store in London

DETAIL

AUTHENTICITY

EXAGGERATION

G-Star started by the nam Gap Star but changed its name after acknowledging popularity. The brand was founded in 1989 in the Netherlands by Jos van Tilburg.

Vision The boundaries of denim should be pushed by innovative design.

Mission We focus on the product by researching qualities of fabrics and designs to develop new ways of treatments.

G-Star Raw Jos van Tilburg Pharrell Williams Est. 1989

Values Innovative: G-Star believes that achieving the new doesn’t necessarily need the newest technology, but rather an open-minded view. By pushing the boundaries of denim, the brand tries to search for new possibilities to stay as forward-striving as possible. Authenticity: ‘Just the product’ has been their philosophy for years and supports their title as a raw denim jeans brand. They show this through slow motion movements, cutting out the models on the website or social media, and by only showing the bottom halves of mannequins in retail environments. Sustainable: This forward-striving ideal is what drives them to participate in sustainable projects that include collaborating with different people, companies, foundations, all working towards a greener future. Recently G-Star has signed the Agreement on a Sustainable Garment and Textile Sector, which will require the brand to be fully transparent about their manufacturing.

Target group Since the brand is focused on a wide range of aspects to attract a big audience, their target group varies. The group is called the Adventure Seekers. They are active on social media and are willing to pay for quality designs, by saving their pocket money or by getting it from their parents. Seeking for the new is their duty while shopping, as they want to follow the latest fashion that is casual yet slightly edgy. They are young, up to 25 years old and live at their parents home or recently moved out. ‘Young Dependents’ is what they are also called, since most of them are still dependent on their family. However, the end consumer fits more within ‘Modern Juggler’ since they are older, around 30 years old and up, and have a stable income. The brand tries to reach their targeting audience by starring young diverse models in campaigns and videos, including them at their events and showing playful elements such as own designed character pluche.

Collection G-Star is inspired by human anatomy in order to inform new ways of developing and designing a product. Their signature look is always the same, which is raw because of the plain construction of its clothing, rough and clean. All collections drop seasonally, meanwhile, the “Raw Research” continues by the creative director, to create new innovative designs. The Raw Research tributes new prototypes which are functioning as blueprints for the main collection. G-Star has many diverse collections that drop inconsistently, mostly in collaboration with known people or with a highlighted specialized design.

Visual Identity

Anthony Urbano, an ‘Adventure Seeker’, who shares his outfit on Instagram wearing G-Star 40

The brand identity is always visually represented through raw elements, including the logo that is bold and shown in 2 color shades which varies. Connected to the logo are designs that are inspired by different insights, for instance motor sports that motivated G-Star to create the first biker jeans, which are still continuously renewed and developed. What positions G-Star differently from other denim jeans brands, is their innovative approach, which is mostly shown in slow motion movements to highlight the product. Along with these movements, are the models, carefully chosen as well as the celebrities. All representative faces of G-Star are selected only if those can truly send the right message and represent their products. This reflects on their philosophy of ’Just the product’. Bold aesthetics such as concrete and asphalt are used to strengthen the raw image of G-Star. The brand’s headquarter is built upon concrete whereof some spaces are purposely not furnished, aiming to not being limited by its interior to unlock new innovative ideas

Key Message ‘Just the product’ has been G-Star’s key message for years. According to the brand, people will feel as cool as on the catwalk and as casual as on the streets. This message comes mostly forward on Instagram, where many models are posing on the streets along with bold architectural environments. Although some visuals don’t always connect this if the streets are being left out and only a model is posing. The philosophy ‘Just the product’ is better in picture when actually only a product is shown, which doesn’t always happen. Also, since Pharrell Williams has joined the G-Star family, the brand has becoming slightly more playful which can makes the brand a little bit less raw. A pop of color, which is more often used nowadays in visuals, is less bold and rough than white and black shades.

Retail environment The first thing that welcomes customers into the store are the big stacks of jeans which go up against the ceiling. To customers who have never heard of the brand, it’s clear that G-Star is a denim brand. All retail environments of the stores are designed with industrial elements, wood, denim and mannequins, supported by playful details. Some stores feel more industrial than others, depending on the location and the customers. The store at P.C. Hooftstraat store is more industrial and raw than the store at the Kalverstraat, which attracts more tourists than inhabitants. The products are more highlighted than architectural elements in the Kalverstraat store. G-Star is located in 62 countries and has 350 stores and 5165 outlets. All stores are located in big cities in different areas so they can attract a bigger audience.

Campaign image placed on the headquarter In Amsterdam

Price level The price level of products starts from €100 and up since the brand promotes itself as a high quality denim brand. Most jeans are around €130 and the price ranging doesn’t differ much from previous collections or other products. The price level has always been very consistent over the years. Based on these prices and collections it’s clear that G-Star is positioned in the mid sector.

Ethical point of view The brand is becoming more sustainable every year and has set up clear plans for the future which are easy to check on the website of MADE BY. Statistics show that the brand’s process are uploaded each year and is accessible for everyone to see. On their own website, all responsibilities and current projects are displayed in a separated column, which makes G-Star very transparent about their developments. The brand has been working together with Bionic Yarn since Pharrell has joined the G-Star family. A collection called ‘Raw for the Ocean’ has been created, which recycles plastic into clothing, so no more microfibers can get into the ocean and the agreement has been signed to work towards a greener future. Also, the headquarters in Amsterdam are designed to support the environment by using green energy and solar and heat controlled glass. Statistics show that G-Star is not fully sustainable yet because not all collections are made of sustainable fabrics, as well as the fact that manufacturing is still happening in low-income countries. However, it’s a step towards a greener future. they were only implemented in 2016 and 2017 so they are not that effective yet and it will take some time to implement these fully.

Fun fact G-Star pays the school tuition for all children in low-income countries who work for the company. G-Star Raw Concept Store at Oxford Street, London

INNOVATION

AUTHENTIC

SUSTAINABLE

Indigo People was founded in 2013 by Kiat Yen and Johan van de Berg in the Netherlands, through affection for traditional craftsmanship and the love for natural indigo. They combine contemporary designs with authentic techniques, making their products on a small scale, thus giving it their own unique flair to their brand.

Vision Where talent and skills of the traditional artisans are shared with the world.

Mission We embrace the raw nature of indigo.

Indigo People Kiat Yen Johan van de Berg Est. 2013

Values Heritage: Valuing the tradition passed on from generation to generation, Indigo People creates awareness of traditional craftsmanship by creating handcrafted denim. They express their aim to support the artisans and their traditions. The brand is strongly against the concept of fast fashion production and believes that heritage of denim is meaningful to their culture, hence should not be forgotten. Craftsmanship: Each country has its own specialty and traditional weaving and printing technique, all having their own ritual in the production process. These artisans respect their old traditions. To them it is a sign of respect of their ancestors and their heritage. Authenticity: Indigo People is one of the few denim brands that is specialized in handcrafted fashion. Their style also refers to the traditional prints which give their denim cultural depth. The rawness of the fabric, but also the love, care and respect the artisans have, makes it so more genuine.

Target group Ethnic Culture Lovers (Free independents) are denim connoisseurs who like the idea of owning a garment which went through a long process of traditional techniques - it makes them feel special. This target group ranges between 20 - 35 years old. This might look quite broad, but looking at their followers and the people that tag the brand on social media, you can see that their target group varies. They are people with a free-spirited lifestyle, and are interested in knowing different cultures and their history. Indigo People uses their social media, mainly Instagram, as a platform for communication. This is where they give updates on their collection process, new items, new locations opening. They also share customer experience and appreciation, posting pictures of their customers wearing their clothing to show their appreciation of the support of their target group.

Collection Indigo People combines traditional techniques with tribal elements for both their dyeing and weaving process. The signature style for their denim is created with old weaving and printing techniques from an ancient, Asian tradition which is called Ikat technique, Batik printing and the handloom technique. Resulting in an indigo colored denim fabric with prints weaved, giving a tribal-like vibe to the style. This denim is used to create scarves, bags, ties and bandanas. These are all created with raw cotton, which gives the product a natural and rugged look. The patterns on the fabric refer to the weaving technique that was traditionally used. Indigo People launches two collections per year. Since their collection doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a wide range, they can really focus on the quality and the design. What also makes it unique, is that each product is handcrafted from start to finish.

Visual Identity

Customer showing off her scarf from Indigo People 44

Indigo Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s identity has an ethnic, tribal style which derives from different Asian heritages. This tribal aesthetic gives a very freeing vibe, with some bohemian influences used in their designs. The brand name is a tribute to people who love traditional craftsmanship and natural indigo, and the artisans who carried on the traditions for generations. The logo is a mixed style of east and west, which embodies their spirit. It is also what makes them distinctive from other brands, because they show the rawness through their visuals which all refer back to them valuing handmade denim.

Indigo People showcases their collections through social media. Their brand relies on this platform and it’s their biggest form of communication, this is also how they campaign their collections. They are only four years old, and are still considered a small business, thus they rely a lot on social media such as Instagram, fashion blogs and interviews to get their message across and promote their collections.

Key Message Indigo People’s message is that if you buy their denim, you will support the heritage of all these different cultures and their traditions. Indigo People wants to connect the beauty of the ancient traditions and the modern world, reviving old cultural craftsmanship. It has such an emotional value to the brand. The product too is from great quality, offering durability for the wearer, to not only feel connected to the brand, but also to the product.

Retail environment Indigo People doesn’t have their own physical store, they do however sell their brand in boutiques and other shops internationally. Indigo People doesn’t have their own section in every store but in some shops their products are displayed differently, whether it is by hanging up their scarves or using their fabric for their fitting rooms. They also sell their clothing in their webstore. This is also where all the information about the products and the entire process is shown through different ways, whether it is through form a video or journal posts.

Indigo People x Denham The Jeanmaker

Price level Indigo people uses denim to create accessories, meaning that the price has different ranges starting from €39 to €329. The scarves are the cheapest and the bags are the most expensive in the collection they are currently selling. The prices are quite expensive for just denim accessories, but this is because of the long traditional processes behind it.

Ethical point of view Indigo People supports the artisans, offering a good pay and a good environment to work in. However, this is what they claim, but there is not much transparency since there is no form of social reports and they aren’t associated with any fair labor organisation. They don’t use machines or chemical dyes as stated on their website, making their production process less damaging to the environment but there is still uncertainty about how sustainable they really are. But the thought behind the brand is built from ethical morals, the question how much can unfortunately not be answered yet.

Fun fact Each product Indigo People sells has a unique name and a detailed description on what method of weaving and dyeing was used and where was it made. This giving each item its own character and a background story on the entire process. Indigo People at Modefabriek Amsterdam

CULTIVATION

ETHICAL

RAWNESS

Taking its name from the city of Kojima (Japan’s ‘Denim Capital’), the brand came into being in 1984 as a result of the founder’s frustration after 9 years of copying American jeans for a Japanese denim company. Five years later, his son joined Kapital as a main designer, and the duo – Toshikiyo and Kiro Hirata – has ever since continued to build everything the brand stands for.

Vision Timeless design comes from an eclectic mix of cultural heritages.

Mission We work closely together on experimenting with traditional forms of craftsmanship to reinvent the classics.

KAPITAL Toshikiyo Kiro Hirata Est. 1984

Values Eclectically imaginative: Kapital’s approach towards design is defined by their originally patchworked mix of cultural references which creates an easily recognizable, authentic look. Innovatively traditional: Kapital values the American heritage of denim and the old Japanese craftsmanship, but constantly looks for new ways to improve and reinvent their products. For them, being traditional also means putting interpersonal connections first – for example, the brand often shoots campaigns with the same, trusted models many seasons in a row, and makes the photoshoot feel like a small holiday for them. Nostalgically adventurous: The brand’s imagery, often in sepia, operates in a slightly wild environment. The surroundings are not completely primitive, but refer strongly to the more old-school ways of exploring the world – backpacking, setting up a tent in the middle of a meadow and possibly fishing out your own dinner.

Target group The Alternative Enthusiasts are keen on quality goods but value authenticity and take their time to find the perfect garment to add to their already well-curated wardrobe. They are mostly males in their mid-twenties and late thirties (Free Independents). The members of the KAPITAL tribe are fascinated by outdoor forms of activity, such as biking, hiking, camping, etc. However, they mostly like the idea of performing them while they stay dedicated to their more city-oriented lives and spend their free time, for example, researching vintage pieces online. The online deep-dive is also how they have found out about KAPITAL. Alternative Enthusiasts have more disposable income than an average person, but they’re not wealthy – they manage to afford premium items by saving up. They cherish every purchase, and rather invest in a quality product every once in a while than shop often in bigger quantities.

Collection Throughout their collections, the brand often refers to a variety of cultures, with a strong focus on Native American themes, the heritage of denim and the hippie culture. Their signature look appears to be the patchwork-inspired garments made out of pieces of denim and bandanas. Kapital focuses on menswear, however, womenswear items are included in the range, often just in a form of smaller sizes of menswear styles, linking back to their value of eclecticism. The brand releases two seasonal collections a year with an addition of separate “Century Denim” products and a “Kountry Remake” line – an exclusively handcrafted collection made in a very limited number of pieces. Both of the additional lines connect strongly to their focus on craftsmanship.

Visual Identity

Kapital’s Target Group: Alternative Enthusiasts

Kapital’s visuals are energetically and eclectically adventurous, but recently started to focus more on the craftsmanship and authenticity of their products. With their campaigns being almost exclusively published in physical catalogues, the brand has been mostly communicating on Instagram and their website, where pictures portray the garments alone, with a from-time-to-time addition of archive catalogue images. The last ones have mostly a vintage feel to it due to the sepia colours and Native American references. As the cultural and adventurous themes strengthen the value of eclecticism, the portrayal of garments by themselves and brand’s logo are almost like a tribute to handcrafting. The “Blue Hands” logo illustrates the indigo dye that tints the maker’s hands during the production process of denim.

Key Message Kapital considers its invention, the Century Denim, a staple to their brand. Century Denim is a denim fabric dyed in Kakishibu (Japanese ink) with indigo-dyed Sashiko (Japanese decorative stitching) running stitches. The pieces from this line involve special care – it’s the customer’s job to apply the Kakishibu on the garment. Additionally, after each wash, the ink fades, and the indigo bleeds from the stitches onto the fabric. This process makes each garment one-of-a-kind. Therefore, the Century Denim becomes a symbol of KAPITAL’s key message: if you buy it, you’re not only getting a unique item to which creation you’re contributing, but you’re also supporting the further development of traditional Japanese crafts.

Retail environment The Kapital stores are rich statements of the brand’s eclectic identity. The interiors look almost like welcoming insides of Tipi tents, but feel much more exclusive . There is a strict no-pictures policy that makes visitors feel like they belong to a secret tribe. Persian-inspired rugs on the floor, curtains made of leftover fabrics, busy product exposition with garments hanging effortlessly from the ceiling – all of these contribute to the brand’s coherent, culturally mixed and adventurous story. Shopping in a Kapital store is what a treasure hunt at a Mediterranean bazar would feel like. With each purchase, clients get a coaster with a map and a shop location. All of the sixteen KAPITAL’s physical stores are located in Japan. The brand, however, sells online in American and European countries, and, thanks to the ritualistic shopping experience, has its dedicated visitors from all over the world.

FW15 Marketing Campaign shot in Sweden

Price level Kapital is a premium brand with prices of jeans starting at €190 and reaching €500 and even slightly over for the pieces that involve exceptional processes. The high price range has its reasons in many complicated stages of production and a limited number of pieces per style. The products are not considered overpriced by their target - they are pricey, but worth the extra money.

Ethical point of view Kaptial values the satisfaction of their employees (the value of nostalgic craft) and it’s possible to find some hints about a sustainable approach, such as not having any leftovers in the production process of Century Denim. However, sustainability and ethical responsibility seem to be topics that are not important for the brand’s identity, but just happen to be a part of the production process.

Fun fact Kapital’s main designer was once stopped at the security check at the airport in Colorado for a few hours because he was wearing a new model of Century Denim. For this pair of jeans they used a new material inspired by Japanese armor – the metal woven into the fabric set off the alarm. KAPITAL Ebisu store in Shibuya, Tokyo

PATCHWORKED

ECLECTIC

ADVENTUROUS

The brand Kings of Indigo was founded by Tony Tonnaer in Amsterdam in 2010. However, the first collection appeared in stores 2 years later, in 2012. Inspired by American classics with a Japanese eye for detail, the brand quickly found its customers and has been developing successfully through the years. Today K.O.I is presented in 12 countries and online.

Vision We stand for what we stand on.

Mission We create quality wear for the next era.

Kings Of Indigo Tony Tonnaer Est. 2010

Values Timeless design: K.O.I’s approach towards design is defined by the desire to combine classic silhouettes with innovative fabrics and signature details. The concept of the brand is to create denim suitable for every person, young or old, hippy, cowboy or lawyer. Sustainable innovation: Kings of Indigo is working towards a production process that is completely sustainable, from the raw cotton to dyeing the yarns and the finishing process. To do this, they are always searching for new technologies that can be implemented in all the production phases. Transparent production: The brand cares for the environment, that’s why all the products are produced and sold as close to home as possible and are preferably shipped by truck. They want customers to know everything about their supply chain and understand what the price is based on.

Target group K.O.I positions itself as a sustainable brand for everyone who appreciates quality garments and is environmentally conscious. However, their target group the Modern Thinkers consists mostly of men and women between their early thirties and mid-fifties (Modern Jugglers and Well-todo families). This is the period of life in which people start to think more about the future of our planet. They strongly believe that garments have to be well-made, durable, sustainable and appreciate that K.O.I products meet their expectations. Modern Thinkers are mostly well-educated and have good jobs. A perfect day in their life will definitely include some yoga, reading in a park, cooking healthy dishes for their family and friends, discussing the latest exhibitions and watching documentaries. K.O.I reaches their target group through the website, social media and events, connected to sustainability. In order to attract the young generation, the brand collaborates with young bloggers that promote green lifestyle.

Collection In their collections, K.O.I always combines the minimalistic beauty of the pure Japanese denim and the tough characteristics of the classic American blue jeans. Their signature details are leather patches, royal blue overlock at out seam, back logo rivet, donut rivet, fish bone bar tack, arcuate stitch, fit name label and ticking stripe pocketing. Kings of Indigo releases collections every season for men and women. In addition, they created the ‘Red Light Denim’ project, an innovation platform for the Dutch denim industry. All garments within this range are produced from denim woven from 21% recycled jeans collected in Amsterdam. The rest of the fabric is composed of 7% hemp and 72% organic cotton making it 100% sustainable. Also, during the Amsterdam Denim Days, K.O.I created art pieces in patchwork technique. This collection was specially made for promotion, not for sale.

Visual Identity

“Modern Thinkers” find balance between the love to fashion and the environment. (Via Instagram) 52

The visual identity of K.O.I feels like the fusion of Japanese and American aesthetics. Minimalistic beauty is combined with rough style, which creates edgy, natural look. The brand is perceived as simple, honest and real and evokes nostalgic feeling. The authentic style goes through all the visual elements of the brand. Also, they try to attract attention to the sustainable aspect of the brand by using the illustrations of nature on their labels, campaigns and old logo. The focused element of the illustrations is koi fish, which is often drawn in a humanistic manner. Talking about the showcase of their collection, there is always a pure vibe in their lookbooks. The models always look natural and simple. Kings of Indigo’s identity is a mix of the historical heritage of two cultures and innovative approach, which makes them distinctive.

Key Message The key message of the brand is that we can find a balance between our love towards fashion and environmental consciousness. It comes across the website, social media and all the lectures, which K.O.I gives on Amsterdam Fashion Week and other events. Every garment takes a lot of water and energy to be produced. We have to be responsible for the natural resources that we have. Every stage of the production and buyer’s attitude towards a new garment should be connected to one goal: save our world from the waste of these essential elements. To do this, we have to search for new technologies of production. Also, we have to produce and buy less. In this case, the garments should be of a good quality.

Retail environment The Kings are now selling the collection in over 250 carefully selected retailers in 12 countries and online, with a focus on Northern Europe. The website is user-friendly and helps the customer to plunge into the world of Kings of Indigo. The retailers are mostly focused on sustainable and quality products. Some of them are clothing stores, but the majority are concept stores, focusing on fashion, beauty, interior and books. Inside many of them, there is a cafe, where customers can enjoy a cup of coffee or even a lunch. Often, a cozy atmosphere has been created, with the help of the Scandinavian style of interior design; plain and natural with wooden details, with soft light and the aroma of coffee.

Minimalistic beauty is combined with roughness, creating an edgy, natural look. (Campaign AW17)

Price level K.O.I is a middle segment brand with prices of jeans starting at €100 and reaching €350 for the products that involve complicated processes in the design or production of the garment. The high price range is often connected to a collaboration with invited designers and exceptional craftsmanship. The products are not considered overpriced by their target group. Their customers appreciate innovative approach towards denim.

Ethical point of view Kings of Indigo was ranked number one sustainable brand by Rank-a-Brand in 2016. This result was to be expected, as the brand puts sustainability in the first place. K.O.I is pioneering in using post-consumer recycled cotton in new fabrics. For the apparel collection it uses many innovative, sustainable fabrics such as TENCEL® lyocell, recycled polyester, recycled wool and organic cotton. The brand is working towards a production process that is completely sustainable. Next to the use of recycled and organic cotton, alternative washing and finishing methods are used. These methods reduce the waste of water and bring the use of chemicals down to a minimum. Transparency is one of the core values of the brand. They always share all the information about their supply chain on the website. KOI provides all the people that work for the brand with fair working conditions and a fair wage.

Fun fact The name K.O.I came from founder Tony Tonnaer’s favorite tattoo, a koi fish on his right shoulder in remembrance of his mother. Koi fish tend to swim against the stream.

The retailers of K.O.I. are mostly focused on sustainable quality products. (Sissy-Boy)

INNOVATIV

EDGY

SUSTAINABLE

The journey of Kuyichi started in 2000 in Peru, South America. The founders (NGO Solidaridad) were exploring the cotton industry in Peru and were shocked by the pollution and poverty they saw. The alternative was organic cotton from which they decided to produce 100% organic denim.

Vision A noticeable change in the state of our environment can only be achieved by turning concerns into actions.

Mission We give a positive impulse to the garment industry by choosing organic and recycled materials.

KUYICHI Solidaridad Est. 2000

Values Classic design: Kuyichi’s approach towards design is defined by the desire to produce a pair of jeans that keeps its value for years. To do this, the brand is focused on timeless and classic silhouettes. Quality: The brand has high standards of quality of the fabric and production. It only works with carefully chosen suppliers, mostly from Europe. Sustainable consciousness: Kuyichi only uses organic and recycled materials, such as recycled denim, recycled PET, organic cotton, organic linen and Tencel. They always take the methods of denim production and the conditions for the workers into consideration. The brand also promotes its vision through environmental projects, like for instance ‘Think about plastic’.

Target group The ‘Environmental Idealists’ are well-educated perfectionists, who have a romantic, yet rationalistic perception of the world. They are mostly men and women in their late twenties to mid-forties (Modern Jugglers). Due to their serious attitude towards work and the ability to take responsibility, they quickly achieve success in their careers. In their free time, they generate creative ideas on how humanity can save the planet. Also, they are aesthetes. Art for them is the only source for self-identification and inspiration. In terms of shopping, they like quality and classic garments made of natural materials which can serve them for ages. They appreciate that Kuyichi products have all these qualities. The ‘Environmental Idealists’ don’t follow trends because they are aware of the harm of the fast fashion industry and want to become a part of a new society which thinks about the environment. Kuyichi reaches their target group through the social media, ecological projects and events, connected to sustainability.

Collection Every garment that is produced by Kuyichi has a classic design in many aspects: shape, color and feel of the fabric. They are mostly straight blue jeans, which are ‘organic to the bone’. All the products are minimalistic and have a pure vibe. They aren’t created to attract attention. Kuyichi garments can become a good base for every wardrobe for many years. Kuyichi started the organic revolution as being the first brand to produce organic jeans. Along the way, the founders realized that their collection was timeless and was keeping its value throughout the years. They started loving the concept of slow fashion. That’s why they decided not to produce seasonal collections.

Visual Identity

The target group of Kuyichi on social media

Honesty, simplicity, unpretentiousness and naturalness are main features of Kuyichi’s brand identity. Their visual language is delicate and attracts only potential clients who are environmentally conscious. Kuyichi promotes itself mostly with the help of ecological projects. The last one is an underwater project called ‘Think about plastic’. To change our ‘throwawayculture’, they organised an underwater photoshoot. The visuals and text look simple and honest, which is in harmony with the visual identity of the brand. The website, Instagram and Facebook are updated quite often with minimalistic images and brand’s aphorisms. Also, they participate in the Amsterdam Fashion Week with lectures and talks about the environment and sustainable production.

Key Message The key message of Kuyichi is that people have to take the environmental and social responsibility for the planet and their lives. This is reflected in all the activity of the brand. However, there is one post on Kuyichi’s Instagram page that formulates this idea in two sentences: “We don’t inherit the world from our parents. We borrow it from our children”. The environmental and social responsibility starts with changing our consumption habits and ‘throwaway-culture’.

Retail environment Kuyichi has always had an online shop and was working with a large number of retailers all over the Netherlands, which are mostly clothing and concept stores. They focus on sustainable and quality products. However, in 2016 Floortje Dessing, one of the new owners, opened a physical store called “Kuyichi & Friends” in Den Bosch. The store positions itself as a fair fashion and sustainable products retailer. They sell such brands as Alchemist, Armed Angels, Blue Loop Originals, Hoodlamb, Inti knitwear, Keff & Dessing Publishers, Knowledge Cotton Apparel, Miss Green and others. The store is located in a monumental building and its interior is in the Scandinavian style: plain, natural, with wooden elements. At the centre of the room, there is a red carpet with oriental motifs. All of this creates an atmosphere of home’s coziness and a natural vibe.

‘Save the oceans’ Kuyichi campaign

Price level Kuyichi is a middle segment brand, as the prices of a pair of jeans are around €100 - €120, which means that a price for a pair of jeans is always approximately the same. The target group sees the products of the brand as a perfect balance between price and quality.

Ethical point of view Kuyichi sees itself as the first sustainable brand. It annually reports on its sustainability efforts through a special report, which includes information about their suppliers, code of conduct and use of materials. It wants to make all the processes transparent for the customers. The brand only uses organic and recycled materials. Kuyichi pays attention to the working conditions at the factories and always tries to produce their products as close to the Netherlands as possible.

Fun fact The name Kuyichi is derived from the Peruvian god of the rainbow. Kuyichi store in Den Bosch, the Netherlands

TRADITIONAL SUSTAINABLE

BALANCED

Formed in 1999, Levi’s Vintage faithfully captures the spirit and heritage of American workwear. Inspired by the hard working men and women that Levi’s has equipped for the last 140 years, replicas of the archives are reproduced the exact same way to relive the history of denim.

Vision Faithfully capturing the spirit and history of denim.

Mission

Levi’s Vintage Clothing Mr Miles Johnson Est. 1999

Pore over every last stitch to ensure each style remains as relevant and style-forward now, as it was back then.

Values Authenticity: As the brand strives to relive the spirit and history of denim, a lot of effort is put into creating an image that resembles the American heritage. By using ordinary American men or women placed in a casual setting for campaigns instead of stylized models, Levi’s Vintage clothing appears more authentic and nostalgic. Quality: The brand digs deep into their archives to recreate the high-standard pieces from the past. Everything is produced the same way as it was originally, to provide customers with the best quality. Exclusive: Only a limited amount of replicas are made, which makes every piece exclusive. These items possess the same details, like the red selvedge which are common symbols for the brand’s identity.

Target group The Authentic Denim Lover is a ‘Modern Juggler’ between 35 - 50 years old, who tends to become part of a ‘Well-to-do family’. They have a busy working life with great responsibilities and a high income, and are willing to spend money on premium fashion products. To be socially active, either with their families or friends, is important to them. They are interested in the fashion industry, especially the denim sector and its rich history. Quality and authenticity is highly valued within their cultural circle. Hardly using any social media channels, except for an Instagram account to communicate with their target group, Levis Vintage Clothing expresses its authenticity and nostalgia. Word to mouth marketing within the circles of denim lovers creates the awareness and exclusiveness of Levis Vintage Clothing. In addition, a bound look book is published each season.

Collection The Levis Vintage Clothing collection is characterized by its dedication to heritage, quality and timeless garment pieces. The fits, fabrics and details of bygone eras are capturing the spirit and history of the brand. Levis Vintage Clothing has both a men’s and women’s collection launched twice a year and is rather exclusive. As a reference and inspiration, the design team uses the rich archive resources accessible to reproduce the replicas showing their heritage. The styles remain as relevant now as they were back then and express the timelessness of Levis. Inspired by the hard working men and women from the past, their products ensure durability through usage of high quality fabrics combined with an authentic feeling. The 501 Jeans is the style Levis became known for. Replicas from different time frames with changing characteristics are part of every collection.

Visual Identity

The ‘Authentic Denim Lover’ wearing Levi’s Vintage Clothing at work. 60

Inspired by the spirit and heritage of Levis and American workwear, the overall feel is very authentic and nostalgically American. The two horses on the labeling demonstrate the strength of the products and its connected quality and heritage to American cowboys. Not only the reproduction of products, but also their visual communication refers back to the treasured history and showcases the brands timelessness and nostalgic mood. The Archive Original photographed next to the replica is a clever way of showing that. The limited edition of their lookbook published with each season tells a story related to a historical theme. Including only reproduced vintage visuals, it relives the American history. The visual identity of Levis Vintage Clothing distinguishes itself from competitors through the big E label that is introduced, which indicates the exclusiveness within the brand.

Key Message The fact that one can become part of the brands history with purchasing a Levis Vintage Clothing product is very much the core of the message they are sending. Their visual communication is a celebration of American history and relives that spirit. It is coming back in all their branding activities such as their photography, using a cowboy or a mine worker dressed in a replica. Levis Vintage Clothing is a tribute to the brand’s knowledge and heritage. Expertise, quality and authenticity is well integrated into the brands products.

Retail environment The exclusiveness continues, as there are not many Levi’s Vintage shops out there. San Francisco, Tokyo and London are known for having an own retailer which shows the brands’ selective choice. Most of their pieces are sold in premium denim retailers or in luxury department stores such as Barneys. Both types of their retail environments are characterised by an authentic and vintage vibe that is supported by wood and copper materials that resemble the history of denim. Big campaign photos decorate the walls showcasing new styles in an old American cowboy setting communicating the heritage in a nostalgic way. The online shop supports that feeling through showing the same type of images with brown colored backgrounds reminding of wooden materials, which also give the same vintage look and feel.

Campaign, showcasing the denim trucker jacket and denim jeans in the old American cowboy style.

Price level Levis Vintage Clothing is part of the premium sector market where prices for denim are between €170 - €380. The rich research, high quality production in The United States and Italy, and limitation is affecting the rather higher price segmentation compared to other Levis lines.

Ethical point of view The ethical and sustainable point of view is one that Levis Vintage Clothing isn’t transparently communicating . We can assume that they aren’t a leader in sustainability, when fabrics, labels, branding and fibers need to be transformed to the exact same state of an archive piece from 1900. The vintage line produces its garments in The United States and Europe, which could indicate a more ethical work environment than the low wage countries with weaker policies. However, Levis itself is making an effort to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturer process. For instance with the Waterless Project, which reduces water consumption by an average of 28% and up to 96% for some new products in the line.

Fun fact After Levi’s patent on the blue jeans expired in 1890 any brand was able to copy, use and sell them, Levi’s had no other option than differentiating themselves through their branding and obtaining a variety of federal trademarks covering everything from design characteristics to product names. The retail environment of the Levi’s Vintage Clothing store in San Francisco.

QUALITY

EXCLUSIVITY

AUTHENTICITY

MUD Jeans was founded in the Netherlands in 2013 by Bert van Son. After his long career in the fashion industry he realised how badly fashion affects people and the environment, and he felt the need to do something about it. He started ‘Lease a Jeans’ consumption philosophy, following the circular economy system with the belief that there is a fair and sustainable way to produce denim.

Vision We envision a wasteless free world.

Mission MUD jeans provides customers with quality jeans with minimal environmental impact.

MUD JEANS Bert van Son Est. 2013

Values Circularity: The most important value of the brand. They follow a circular economic system, as their main goal is to do wasteless fashion. MUD Jeans are made from 100% organic, recycled cotton. Transparency: On their website, all the detailed explanations of how they follow their circular approach for further good can be found, as sustainability is the main core of their existence. Communication: MUD has a personal approach towards their audience. They do not use only their social media to communicate, but they organise special meetings and talks where everyone who is interested can attend. They believe that the idea behind the brand is worth spreading to make a change. Quality: Longevity is important for the brand as they’re trying to slow down the industry. To do so, they use high quality workmanship to expand the life of the jeans.

Target group The Social Explorers (Free Independents) are well-educated, eat organic food and they are always up for adventures. They are 20 - 35 year olds who are searching for new, disruptive, and sustainable ideas to enjoy guilt-free shopping and that’s what they find in Mud Jeans. MUD Jeans uses their target group for their visual communication, leaving professional models behind and creating this real group of people that is easier to feel connected to. They focus on targeting the Social Explorers through social media, but they prefer a more personal approach. They organise presentations and Skype calls each month for every curious individual. CEO Bert van Son himself attends all these events so one can ask him any question personally.

Collection MUD Jeans are the exact opposite of fast fashion. That is why there is no regular number of collections. Instead they innovate the existing collection a few times a year. The signature feature of their jeans are printed vegan patches, to eliminate unnecessary extra materials and waste. As long-term thinkers, they provide their jeans with a higher number of stitches expanding their lifetime. Their collection is divided to New Jeans, Vintage Jeans and Lease-aJeans. With Lease-a-Jeans you can lease any pair of jeans and pay only for their performance each month. Vintage jeans are worn jeans that are being sold with the name of their former owner. Personal communication, circularity of the jeans and transparency of the story behind the jeans, are values that could be easily attached to their collection offering.

Visual Identity

Target Group; Snímka obrazovky in MUD Jeans (Via Instagram) 64

MUD’s visual identity is characterised by minimalism, naturalness and comfort. Not only their jeans collection, but also their website, campaigns and logo are very minimal in sense of colors and shapes. The campaign images are natural with the less fashionable feel. They are focused more on comfort and living everyday life of real people in their guilt-free jeans. Their logo focuses on circularity as the word circular is mentioned in it with a black circle around it. They do not invest in visual communication of their jeans as much, as there are no lookbooks and no fashion shows which is what distinguishes them from other brands. They prefer to spread their philosophy. In every pair of jeans you buy, there is a small booklet in the pocket that explains how exactly the circularity of the jeans you are buying works. If by any chance the booklet gets lost, there is another explanation on the hang tag.

Key Message There is a way to be harmless in the fashion industry. This message comes across on their social media, and mainly in their captions next to their Instagram images. They explain to people how exactly this sustainable system works, step by step right on their website. In interviews with their CEO, they are open about not being a fashion focused brand, but a more environmentally aware one.

Retail environment MUD Jeans are sold in multi brand stores as they do not have their own stores yet. Their locations are usually in the smaller streets not far from the city center. They sell their jeans in a number of responsible, sustainable stores in 19 countries. Their jeans are just simply placed on the shelves, not perfectly tidied up, it feels more free and available for people to not be afraid to touch them and try them on. This fact adds to their essential natural mood. Visualisation (MUD Jeans Campaign)

Price level Price wise, a pair of MUD Jeans costs €70 - €140, but you can also, instead of buying, lease a pair of jeans for €7,50 a month. MUD jeans are in the lower and the mid-level range, they’re durable and can be bought guilt-free, as after they are worn out you can send them back and their cycle continues. They either end up in their VINTAGE collection or are going to be recycled to new yarn out of which new jeans are made. Customers like the price point as they’re feeling that they’re adding to a sustainable world and they find important to support it.

Ethical point of view As the core of the brand is sustainability, they are quite honest about every step of the cycle, as they believe there is no such thing as waste needed. They do care about the environment as well as their social responsibilities and they have many worldwide sustainable partners, such as B Corporation, Circle Economy, Max Havelaar Fairtrade, The DOEN Foundation and many more which foster both socially responsible and sustainable companies. They show their customers proof of their sustainable behaviour through their website as well as their social media accounts. Last year, they went on ‘Recycle Tour’ from which the video is online to show how the process of recycling works.

Fun fact The CEO of MUD Jeans says that jeans have a good fit when your ass looks great in it.

MUD Jeans in a multibrand store in Groningen, The Netherlands

MINIMAL

QUALITY

CIRCULAR

Nudie Jeans was founded in 2001 by Maria Erixon in Gothenburg, Sweden. Not guided by the then current fashion trends, she wanted to blaze a trail inspired by the principle of raw denim, where the pants are not washed or edited. After having worn the jeans for at least half a year, these jeans will be washed, after which the wear areas will emerge more.

Vision We believe in the naked truth about denim.

Nudie Jeans

Mission We offer a way of thinking, a concept and an undying passion, fuelled by the traditions of denim and the characteristics of the fabric itself.

Values

Maria Erixon Est. 2001

Anti-trend: Nudie Jeans advises people not to follow trends so that there is more variety and beauty in the world. Transparency: Nudie Jeans wants to be transparent in everything. Among other things, they show this by placing a production guide on the website and an information booklet in the back pocket of the jeans itself. Durability: The passion of Nudie Jeans lies in being a fair brand by delivering quality and adding value for consumers.

Target group Nudie Jeans mainly focuses on the ‘Conscious Adventurers’, part of the ‘Free Independents’ segment. Everything is about enjoying life, with quality above quantity. For this reason, the target group only cares about things with character that will last for a long time, and you will love for that same reason. According to Nudie Jeans, anyone who can mourn for their worn out jeans, as they would do in the loss of a very good friend, is the person they see as part of their target group.

Collection The collection of Nudie Jeans is completely organic. Since the beginning, the goal has been to show that sustainability does not have to be boring, but is crucial. Nudie Jeans is completely transparent in their communication. The ambition has always been to produce environmentally friendly at every step of the production process. Nudie's philosophy is ‘Break in, Repair, Reuse and Reduce’. Nudie Jeans does not offer a separate men and women collection: all pants are unisex. Nudie Jeans stands for simplicity and expresses this in their collection: ten fits are available in four colors. Inspiration is not found on the catwalk, but in music. According to Maria Erixon, music and denim have much more in common than fashion and denim. The essence of Nudie Jeans can therefore be seen in the uniqueness of the jeans, the durability and the transparency. This is also reflected in the brand's values.

Visual Identity

Customer sharing his Nudie Jeans outfit on social media with #nudiejeans 68

Nudie Jeans endeavours to communicate through their house style what their brand stands for: a fair and distinctive jeans brand. This can, among other things, be seen in the logo and in their typography because the brand often chooses loose handwritten fonts. In color use, the brand chooses orange accents that appear to refer to the stitching in the jeans. Furthermore, Nudie Jeans looks tight, raw and pure because they choose quiet design without fuss and use a lot of contrast. Dark and light colors provide a rugged and unpolished look that allows you to see what you are up to.

Key Message The perception of consumers on Nudie Jeans closely matches the identity. It is known that the brand produces environmental awareness and is very transparent. Nudie Jeans communicates this very clearly through the online production guide and the booklet in the back pocket of the jeans. Nudie Jeans is completely transparent in what, where and how it is produced. Being a 100% organic brand, 100% transparency is the following goal. A goal that is almost in sight. Consumers are largely aware that the brand strives for sustainability and environmental awareness. The brand philosophy of simplicity and sympathy is clearly communicated. In addition, the dry denim concept has emerged. The trademark of Nudie Jeans - the big orange stitches - are very recognisable. Among consumers it is not entirely clear that Nudie Jeans was founded to react against the prevailing fashion.

Retail environment The Nudie Jeans stores are designed according to the Repair Shop concept. With this they try to convey the philosophy of ‘Break In, Repair, Reuse and Recycle’. In the Repair Shops, as the brand itself calls its stores, it is possible to have your Nudie Jeans repaired or adjusted for free. This not only creates a bond between the jeans and the wearer but also between the brand itself and the wearer. The shops have a raw and industrial appearance, because the spaces are as far as possible untouched by the in-store design team. The materials used in the stores are consistent with the brand's values and give a raw, pure and distinctive atmosphere. With hand-painted quotes they want to tell customers Nudie's story and share their way of thinking. In addition, Nudie Jeans chooses large windows and mirrors in the shops and therefore seem to communicate that they are open and honest in everything they do.

Nudie Jeans shoots masked men in forest for Fall 2016 Campaign

Price level Nudie Jeans, as the name suggests, is a brand that focuses on jeans. It offers eleven different jeans models available to everyone in varied versions and prices, with an average price of €149. The fit of the jeans differ from very skinny to loose, but have in common that they are both timeless and unisex.

Ethical point of view In a modest way, Nudie Jeans wants to lead by example with making good quality products while attaching importance to human rights and the environment. After the goal of being a 100% organic denim brand, the goal now, is to be 100% transparent. Nudie Jeans wants to show the customer how the jeans are made. From the cotton plaque to the transportation. Nudie Jeans works with Amnesty International and the Fair Wear Foundation, and contributes to better conditions in the fashion industry. The sustainable aspect of Nudie Jeans is pursued because they want to offer the customer good quality and fit.

Fun fact According to Nudie Jeans, jeans have been created in Sweden. During the search for the origin of denim, they found out that sailors made their own jeans of a sailcloth on a small island near Sweden 200 years ago. Nudie Jeans Repair Shop in New York City

PURE

ORGANIC

RAW

PME Legend (short for Pall Mall Exports Legend) was introduced to the market in 1992 by Just Brands, a Dutch menswear supplier located in Amsterdam. The brand is based on the image and lifestyle of the American cargo and aviator culture. Just Brands is responsible for the design, marketing and supply of their oldest brand PME Legend, but also of the brands Vanguard and Cast Iron.

Vision The sky is only the limit for those who are afraid to fly.

Mission We create comfort and durability for extreme conditions to enable unlimited freedom.

PME Legend Just Brands Est. 1992

Values Masculinity: The PME Legend is created in sight of the aviator culture which is prevailed by men due to the extreme conditions. Although the PME Legend men are rather introverted, they still are solidary, responsible and help the greater good with their cargo transport and are considered as the cowboys of the air. Functional comfort: Tailored down to detail, the gear allows high comfort and resilience even in extreme conditions and meets the aviator’s needs in functionality to work easily in different environments with unlimited movements. Melancholic necessity: Although the aviator culture might not be as far spread as it once used to be, it hasn’t lost its importance due to the fact that some regions are merely accessible by plane. However, the planes and the environment are a portrayal of a more vivid past and a longing for more traditional pastimes in the American aviator culture.

Target group PME Legend’s target group is the Classically Comfortables. For their physical work outside or hobbies such as construction work in- and outdoors and working on old vehicles, the Classically Comfortables look for comfort, durability and a regular fit in jeans. The target group consists of men in their early thirties to sixties, making them part of the Traditional Families. Although appearance is important, the Classically Comfortables are more focused on the practicality of their clothing. To simplify shopping they often shop online or go to particular, favorite stores where they know their size and fit. A new way of engaging customers is the PME Legend Skymaster USA tour, where customers can win a trip that gives insight into the American Aviator culture. In the meantime, the stores attract through the rather raw interior combined with technology such as the advertising screens.

Collection The brand’s collections refer to the aviator culture which is strongly focused on the classic American workwear and work gear. The branding details used are a constant allusion to the cargo and the planes. Materials used to make the plane more durable, such as rubber isolation tape, and materials to secure the cargo are to be found in small details of the collection to create “tough and responsible clothing” according to the brand. The brand releases two collections per year consisting of jeans, jackets, tops and belts. The length of the jeans go up to 38 which makes the jeans rather unique and is especially in demand in the Netherlands, because of the tall male population. The latest jeans collection is named Skymaster and comes in four different colors.

Visual Identity

The ‘Classic Comfortable’ man 72

The visual messaging of PME Legend is related to the brand’s idea of a strong and in-control pilot who works in a challenging and extreme environment. Aviator portrays a reliable, confident and almost a hero-like image, living an isolated life away from an urban, hectic life. Particularly the series of advertisement videos give an insight into the lifestyle and the daily life of a cargo pilot there turning the branding into storytelling rather than only focusing on the product. In their advertisements, the brand communicates through limited, but focused word usage and slogans intended to inspire and raise the attention of the customer. At the same time, they appeal to a more introverted characteristic referring to the pilot’s identity and his surroundings. . PME Legends collections is showcased in online look books, in Just brand stores and at trade show such as Panorama Berlin.

Key Message The brand’s key message is that classic and comfortable everyday wear and workwear is essential to express one’s masculinity, confidence and strength, and at the same time to live in freedom and comfort.The key message is visible in the brands entire visualization and is easy to relate to due to the commonly known relation to a cowboy like image.

Retail environment The Just Brands stores aim to create a coherent interior with constant references to the aviator theme. The materials are mainly metal, as a reference to planes, and raw wood, as a reference to cargo boxes, repeating themselves in shelves, tables and walls. PME Legend collections are sold in the Just Brands stores along with the Vanguard and Cast Iron products. In addition, PME Legend uses shop-in-shops in, for example, the department store De Bijenkorf. However, the shop-in-shops barely visualize the brands identity in terms of a fitting retail environment, here the products stand for themselves and the brand identity is minimally visible from the products. In total, the PME Legend is physically represented in more than 1500 stores in the Netherlands, Belgium, Luxembourg and Germany.

Promotion video for the Skymaster jeans, SS17

Price level The price level of PME Legend is the middle segment with prices ranging from €50 to €150. For a denim brand the prices are a bit high, but PME Legend does offer an attractive price/quality ratio with a product of high durability.

Ethical point of view According to the company website Just Brands believes “in an open, honest and no-nonsense working environment and […] strive to apply this attitude across our full supply chain”. In order to reach this aim, they collaborate with nonprofit organizations such as Made-By, to measure the company’s corporate responsibility. When it comes to the environment, the company has taken the initiative to become a member of the Better Cotton Initiative and signing the ‘Agreement on Sustainable Garment & Textile’ together with other retailers and the Dutch government. To guarantee good working standards for employees, Just Brands implemented the Business Social Compliance Initiative. Although all these measures seem to be a great way to implement social responsibility, they were only implemented in 2016 and 2017 so they are not that effective yet and it will take some time to implement these fully.

Fun fact The Brand used to be called Pall Mall Legend after the cigarette brand Pall Mall. However, due to the negative image of cigarettes they changed the name to Pall Mall Export Legend to distance themselves from it. Just Brands store, PME Legend section in Breda, Netherlands

MASCULINITY

CLASSIC

FREEDOM

Rag & Bone is a high end jeans brand established in 2002 by Marcus Wainwright, a young man who never had training in fashion. Wainwright saw a gap in the denim market as he thought well-made jeans for the everyday life were missing. He didn’t know anything about jeans making but he slowly made his product to what it is today. Rag & Bone was, until recently, led and managed by Wainwright and David Neville, who decided to leave Rag & Bone in the winter of 2016.

Vision There is always room for improvement.

Mission We perfect the art of casual elegance.

RAG & BONE Marcus Wainwright Est. 2002

Values Simplicity: Rag & Bone focuses on simplicity in many ways. By keeping their designs simple yet timeless, the product remains relevant over short-dated trends. Quality: Their philosophy revolves around a priority on quality. The brand is not interested in mass-producing an average product, but they want to offer great quality, fit and fashionforwardness. For Rag & Bone that means producing in the United States, sourcing the greatest Japanese denim and knowing their co-workers. Craftsmanship: The craftsmanship behind a pair of jeans means everything to Rag & Bone. They are transparent about how they produce and are keen to perfect the way a pair of jeans can be made. Authenticity: Authenticity in brand personality and production is deeply embedded in Rag & Bone’s identityand comes across clearly in their expressions such as their campaigns, which are often shot on analogue film, starring models like Binx Walton or Léa Seydoux, who are known for their nonchalant attitude, without any hair and make-up.

Target group Rag & Bone tries to be a brand that offers a little bit of everything for everyone (Modern Jugglers, Well-to-do families, Free Independents), their focus very much lies on the “cool kids of new york” (Free Independents); young successful creatives under 30. They look for functionality and wearability in a product, while proving their fashionability. They have the means, and are willing to spend money on the right quality and expect the product to function in every situation of their life. The group gets targeted by the fit, durability and fashionforwardness in Rag & Bone jeans. Online Rag & Bone is active on social media, hosts a blog and participates in collaborations for youtube content. Offline they organise events like concerts or exhibitions to bring New York’s creative scene together.

Collection A year at Rag & Bone consists of 6 collections. Women’s holiday/pre-spring, men’s and women’s spring/summer, women’s high summer/pre-fall and men’s and women’s fall/winter. Sporty, classical cuts and subtle colors are coming back each collection and the focus lies more on perfecting a pair of jeans, than to re-invent the concept of it. The reference to sports and movement can be linked to their core value functionality. Clean cuts and comfortable fabrics proof that making wearable clothes stands in focus, rather than proving an artistic point. The luxury of the product lies in the way it is made and the fabrics that were used, not in it’s complicated cut or decor.

Visual Identity

Two young creatives wearing Rag & Bone jeans on Instagram

Rag & Bone feels edgy, honest and relatable. The D.I.Y. look and feel of Rag & Bone is visible in every expression of their visual identity. By starring people who inspired or contributed to the brand in the past, their campaigns gain personality and the analogue technique give a young, nonchalant feeling to film and image. Although the raw and effortless style is not necessarily distinctive to other jeans brands, Rag & Bone manages to stand out by creating connectivity. The logo, which is written in a hand-drawn typography, shows imperfection and clearly showcases that ‘I don’t care’-attitude. In their lookbooks and presentations of the collections the focus lies on the product rather than creating an extravagant image.

Key Message The key message Rag & Bone sends, is that a good pair of jeans is there to be lived and experience your youth in. They celebrate creativity, community and youth culture by supporting young artists in New York and by bringing them together at events such as live music events at their store.

Retail environment With 36 stores in total, several retailers and an online store, Rag & Bone has quite a big range of retail environments. They are located in well-known parts of the cities and therefore can count on a constant visitor flow from locals as well as tourists. In New York alone, Rag & Bone has ten stores, all of them being in famous areas like Tribeca or SoHo which are known for their wealthy, young and creative inhabitants. The interior is kept simple, the main focus points in material are dark wood, glass and unpolished steel. That alone creates an industrial, crafty atmosphere. At the same time they manage to give their stores a luxurious undertone through subtle lighting and gold, shiny highlights. All of the furniture used in the store, is made especially for Rag & Bone by the same manufacturer that furnishes their offices. That way they tell a coherent story throughout their company.

Rag & Bone D.I.Y Campaign 2015

Price level Price wise Rag & Bone offers jeans from €150 - €380, and therefore counts as a premium ranged denim brand. The consumer pays for a certain quality, which can be felt and seen immediately when having a pair of Rag & Bone jeans in hands. The best Japanese denim is used when crafting Rag & Bone jeans, which will last several years. The most influencing price point is the fit though. Much time, money and energy goes into making Rag & Bone jeans fit so nicely and flattering, and therefore the price rises proportionally.

Ethical point of view They don’t necessarily see sustainability as a core value, but nevertheless are a brand that is active and conscious about environmental issues. Their way of working automatically proofs a mindful approach to fashion: All their denim is manufactured in the United States, they don’t produce in developing countries and therefore cut out sweatshops in their production process. They take part in fundraisers like “Runway to Green”, where they, together with other well-known designers, organised a runway show to raise money for environmental causes. By making high-quality, long-lasting denim, they automatically act against fast fashion and mass consumerism. As craftsmanship is one of their core values, they give the consumer a lot of insight in how, where and under what circumstances their product is made. Therefore Rag & Bone counts without a doubt as a sustainable and ethically conscious brand.

Fun fact The first pair of jeans Rag & Bone ever produced were an absolute disaster according to founder Marcus Wainwright.

Rag & Bone’s store in London portrays the balance between luxurious and industrial interior 77

YOUTHFUL ELEGANT EDGE

REAL LIFE FUNCTIONAL

Vingino is a Dutch denim brand and was founded in 2001. Their first collection was all about jeans which were inspired by a vintage pair of jeans that CEO Camiel Slaats found in Naples.

Vision Playfulness has no restrictions.

Mission We create resistant clothing for every adventure.

VINGINO Ben Dekker

Values Realness: Vingino jeans are made for real kids who are not afraid of any adventure. They portray the real nature of kids in all their visual campaigns. Durability: Their jeans are made from doubled fabric which gives them extra protection so they can keep up with the busy and playful life of any child. Fun: An extra touch is given by neon colors popping up in each collection to show that kid’s fashion should be made for their true age and should not make them look more mature. Their social media outlets and adverts share the same message over and over again by showing children running, playing, laughing and even falling.

Est. 2001 Target group The Real Kids are full of life, have a sense of their own style and know what they want. They are not afraid to say what they think and they are always looking for something new. They like their personal space yet they feel comfortable grabbing the attention. However, there is also a second target group, as Vingino focuses on the mothers of the Real Kids too. The main difference is that these 2 groups are targeted by completely different strategies. They use YouTube for the children and female magazines for their mothers. The mothers can be from the ‘Modern Jugglers’, ‘Traditional Families’ and ‘Well-to-do-families’.. These moms are aware of their self-conscious and dominant children. They let their children make their own choices, while looking for something with style and durability.

Collection Vingino jeans are influenced by Italian vintage style which is translated into rebellious, stylish denim with playful features such as neon colours. Vingino provides their customers with 4 collections a year plus one extra which is focused on collaborating with important fashion icons. Throughout their jeans collections you can find a number of different washes that give a slightly different tone to each pair, which creates variety for the wide range of customers. Their signature feature is the tiny Italian flag tag attached to the back pocket. Because denim is at the heart of Vingino, they have a ‘never out of stock’ denim range. Vingino is 100% vegan as they are aware of sensitive skin of children. They also provide swimwear, sunglasses and other clothing like jackets and sweaters.

Visual Identity

The Vingino target group: the mother and her child

The visual identity is strongly represented by adventure, excitement and surprise. Their collection’s images showcase the nature of a kid being active and all over the place. The campaigns are focused on taking pictures of the real moments when children are playing around. For the visual communication, they mainly focus on collaborations with teen YouTube stars, as that is a very easy and practical way of grabbing children’s attention. Their hang tags are made to impress by theme elements like cars and animals. The distinctiveness is in not making children mature and uncomfortable if they can be let free, while their parents don’t have to worry about buying a new pair of jeans each week.

Key Message The tone of voice is playful and is encouraging the kids to do whatever they want. The key message Vingino communicates, is that clothing shouldn’t be a barrier, and that feeling confident and comfortable is important. Vingino understands children’s need to be adventurous and playful while feeling good. There is a focus on quality as they believe that the products should exceed the customer’s expectations. They try to excite kids about their clothing by using various social media outlets like Instagram and Facebook with some captions written from a children’s perspective. Because of the imagery in bold colors and laughing, in-action models the key message is clear and successfully communicated.

Retail environment In the retail environment as well as online, the denim heritage is celebrated. The store makes use of vintage interior pieces and the walls are decorated with multi-colored tiles or brick wallpaper. The quotes ‘la dolce vita’ and ‘per l’armore del denim’ in a faded, ornamental font, are found throughout the store as a hint to the Italian influences. The store is spacious enough for children and parents to roam around and browse through the not-particularly organized clothing. It supports the identity and gives off a warm, inviting and vibrant atmosphere. Vingino is sold in over 1250 retailers across Europe with multiple independent stores especially in Holland, Germany and Italy. The brand has their own online store and is also sold in other online shops.

Vingino Fall/Winter campaign 2017

Price level The price of a pair of jeans is around €40 - €60, which makes them a mid price range brand within the children’s fashion market. The reason why the jeans are rather expensive is because they use tougher material than other children’s denim brands to make them last longer.

Ethical point of view The quality manifests itself not only in the style and construction but also the production of the items. Vingino is a member of the BSCI (Business Social Compliance Initiative) and the German ‘Der Grüne Punkt’ organization. As a company, they think that being socially and environmentally responsible is essential. They have a code of conduct which forbids forced labor and enforces good working conditions. From Rank A Brand they received the mark ‘E’ which stands for ‘don’t buy’ because they’re not concrete about their policies and as a consumer it’s unclear whether or not they’re committed to sustainability. However, they don’t use any animal products as the skin of children is very sensitive.

Fun fact The name of the brand Vingino is a combination of the names of the founder’s son: Vince and Gino. The Vingino store in Amsterdam, the Netherlands

REALNESS FUN

DURABILITY

Wrangler Jeans, formerly known as Blue Bell Overall Company, was founded by C.C. Hudson in 1904 in Greensboro, North Carolina. The company used to design jeans specifically for rodeo contests and cowboys. In 1943, Blue Bell took on the name Wrangler and is now owned by the VF corporation. Today Wrangler is known for it’s tough, durable and comfortable products.

Vision Quality is never an accident.

Mission Filled with knowledge and passion, we make a difference in people’s life by always improving.

Wrangler C.C. Hudson Est. 1943

Values Relevance: In order to reach more customers worldwide, the brand underwent a somewhat radical transition and let go of its western cowboy image. Their heritage is still influential but they are combining it with modern society and using their understanding of what’s essential for 21st century jeans. Toughness: Staying true to their western heritage, durability and toughness is a big topic. Because millions of people wear jeans every day, they see themselves committed to improve the everyday functionality and comfort. Since 1936, the brand uses fabric with shrinkage of less than 1 percent and the so called ‘four-way flex technology’ which is supposed to be 20 percent stronger than regular denim. Additionally, they have products that don’t change seasonally. Vitality: Their overall vibe is positive and warm, believing in the spirit of people who work hard, have fun, recognize and appreciate individuality.

Target group The Stylish Denim Enthusiasts love denim, but only if it’s comfortable. Their customers could fall into the segments of the Young Dependents, Free Independents or Modern Jugglers. Overall, the brand reaches a wide audience which makes it hard to specify. The age of the target group ranges from 20 to 40-year olds. Good quality and fit is expected and they trust the brand as it has been around since 1904. An affinity for books, vintage pieces and being taken seriously is something they have in common. They follow trends and seem socially active. Their customers like hanging out with friends, travelling or being outside in nature and do exercise. Instagram is the main tool Wrangler uses to interact with them and tries to communicate and engage on eye-level.

Collection The collections are timeless in wash and fit, making them appeal to a broad range of people. Wrangler used to be an all-male brand however they are leaning more towards a female audience now. Their aim is to become leader in the women’s segment and make the women’s sales count for 30% of the total sales by 2017. An example for this strategy is the new women’s ‘body bespoke’ campaign where they promote their ‘unique technology’ which is focused on the perfect fit for every size. We can clearly see the values being communicated in the collections. Especially the current 70 anniversary collection where they delve into the optimistic, provocative and refreshing mood of the 70’s. The ‘W’ stich on the back pockets, the leather patch reading ‘Wrangler’, the flat rivets, big pockets, seams, 7 belt loops and rope logo are distinctive features that make the Wrangler jeans unique.

Visual Identity

Photo of Wrangler’s target group on Instagram

As the European and American markets have different needs, the brand also tackles the marketing differently. Since 1947, Wrangler has been an American tradition but the brand is not exclusive to the United States anymore, thus Wrangler decided to position and market the jeans in a very different way. In America, Wrangler is cheaper than in Europe and even sold in stores like Walmart. In Europe, the brand has a warm and friendly feel to it in terms of imagery and website design. The images posted on social media, their main output, is aspirational and seems to be targeting mostly women at the moment. Images are either shot indoors or in a rural or city setting, showing movement. The collection is showcased online with the main campaign as banner on the website. The logo is bold and stagnant, making the ‘g’ an eye catcher.

Key Message Wrangler’s key message is that clothing should be designed to fit the needs of the people wearing it. That might seems obvious, but Wrangler makes this to a central theme. Comfort and fit is key which they communicate proudly. Wrangler strives to let people achieve an active, stylish and comfortable lifestyle with the help from their products. This message comes across clearly through their online presence, their ads and also online store and the way they talk about their products.

Retail environment Wrangler’s retail environment is a contemporary translation of their American, western heritage. The mono-brand stores make use of leather couches for a vintage feel, rugged, rough wooden details but also bricks and glass. In 2015, a flagship store was opened in Berlin with a more clean and minimalistic style to attract a younger target group. Throughout Europe, Wrangler is mostly sold in boutiques or other shops and the display is often only little influenced by the brand. To draw attention to the brand and still communicate their values, Wrangler uses printed catalogues, advertisements and social media.

The 70 years of Wrangler campaign 2017

Price level The price for a pair of Wrangler jeans starts at €80 and can go up to €120 which makes them a middle sector brand. Usually, the jeans made in collaboration with artists are more expensive, because they feature different styles and colors. In the United States, Wrangler is even sold at discount retailers which is not the case in Europe.

Ethical point of view More policy and transparency is needed in terms of social and environmental responsibility. According to ‘The 2017 Ethical Fashion Report’ Wrangler received the mark B-. On the other hand, Rank A Brand has given Wrangler the label ‘E’ which also stands for ‘don’t buy’ because there is no concrete policy in place on climate, environment or labor conditions. On Wrangler’s website, they present themselves as environmentally conscious and state that they want to eliminate 100 percent of unwanted chemistry by the end of 2017. They partnered with the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) which means they are steadily increasing the amount of sustainable cotton purchased. Regarding sustainability they say, ‘doing a good job’ and ‘helping out’ are two of their central values.

Fun fact Wrangler invented the ‘broken twill’ fabric which was softer, but most importantly it stopped jeans from leg twisting. Wrangler store in Berlin, Germany

VITALITY

RELEVANT

TOUGHNESS

Young Free Dependents Independents

Modern Jugglers

Social Balancers

Traditional Families

Well-to-do Families

Early Enjoyers

Satisfied Seniors

“Jeans represent democracy in fashion.” — Giorgio Armani

CONCLUSION

n this report we aimed to create an overview of the segmentation in the denim market. We did so by analyzing 20 brands that focus on the production and sale of one of the fashion industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s least distinctive products: jeans. As branders we use appearing gaps in the market to create innovative ideas and widen the audience of brands. In our report, we believe that we have found interesting results in terms of which target groups are being addressed by the denim market right now, which arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t, and what kind of possibilities this might create. During the selection of the brands, we tried to make sure to address a broad variety of brands that sell to a myriad of target groups, at different price levels. Yet, whilst summarizing the report, we discovered that most of the brands analyzed, are placed in the middle part of the market. We wanted to create a representative cross-section of the market, and after this discovery we were afraid that we may have missed out on possibilities for more diversity. Certainly, the mid-market is the most common segment within the denim industry, but as it turns out, the brands in this segment mainly focus on the Young Dependents, the Free Independents and the Modern Jugglers. And, to stay in the words of Giorgio Armani, jeans represent democracy in fashion, which means that everyone should be able to take part in the fun of wearing a pair of jeans, not just the younger target groups. This could mean that we have missed out on brands that target other groups, but it could also mean that there is a large gap in the market. One where denim brands could focus on target groups such as the Social Balancers and the Traditional Families, or the older target groups like the Early Enjoyers and the Satisfied Seniors. The latter two being a very interesting target group considering the aging of the population. Evidently, this all needs to be researched into depth, but these might just be opportunities for creating specialized branding in order to reach the formerly mentioned neglected target groups. Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s give the jeans back to the people!

REFERENCES Cover Visual kapital.jp, 2017, [image] From: http://www.kapital.jp/e-store/ [retrieved 18th September 2017] Melanie of aSmallLife, 2013, How to refresh your old jeans, [image] From: http://asmalllife.com/2013/04/30/how-to-refresh-your-old-jeans/ [retrieved 18th September 2017] Unknown, 2017, Guess Daredevil Skinny Jeans, [image] From: https://www.mayarising.com/collections/jeans [retrieved 18th September 2017] Unknown, 2017, [screenshot] From: https://www.g-star.com/en_nl/elwood [retrieved 18th September 2017] Unknown, 2017, [screenshot] From: https://www.g-star.com/en_nl/elwood [retrieved 18th September 2017] Unknown, 2017, [image6 From: http://www.oshkosh.com/oshkosh-toddler-boy-overalls/V_22273610.html [retrieved 18th September 2017] Unknown, 2017, [screenshot] From: https://www.g-star.com/en_nl/elwood [retrieved 18th September 2017] Unknown, 2017, [screenshot] From: https://www.g-star.com/en_nl/elwood [retrieved 18th September 2017] Introduction Conn, G. (2010). The History of Blue Jeans. [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orY4FVCy-vc [Accessed 11 Sep. 2017]. Levi Strauss. (2017). The Invention of the Blue Jean - Levi Strauss. [online] Available at: http://www.levistrauss.com/our-story/the-history-of-denim/ [Accessed 11 Sep. 2017]. Mahe, Y. (2015). History of Jeans and Denim. [online] Fashion in Time. Available at: http://www.fashionintime.org/history-jeans/ [Accessed 11 Sep. 2017]. Strategyr.com. (2017). Denim Jeans Market Trends. [online] Available at: http://www.strategyr.com/MarketResearch/Denim_Jeans_Market_Trends. asp [Accessed 11 Sep. 2017]. 7 For All Mankind Text 7forallmankind.com. (2017). Buy 7 For All Mankind jeans at the Official UK online shop. [online] Available at: http://www.7forallmankind.com [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] Blogs.nordstrom.com. (2017). FOOLPROOF Denim: Unshrinkable Jeans (Interview) | Nordstrom Men’s Blog. [online] Available at: https://blogs.nordstrom.com/fashion/mens-fashion-7-for-all-mankind-foolproof-denim-unshrinkable-jeans/ [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] Ehlers, S. (2017). Seven For All Mankind introduces Foolproof denim innovation. [online] Fashionunited.uk. Available at: https://fashionunited.uk/ news/fashion/seven-for-all-mankind-introduces-foolproof-denim-innovation/2015082017409 [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] Facebook.com. (2017). 7 For All Mankind. [online] Available at: https://www.facebook.com/pg/7ForAllMankind/community/?ref=page_internal [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] Fredbäck, V., (2017), True Fit: A Collected History of Denim, Ginko Press GmbH, [Accessed 2017] Ghanem, K. and Ghanem, K. (2017). Simi & Haze Add a New Campaign to Their Résumé. [online] Vogue Arabia. Available at: https://en.vogue.me/ fashion/simi-haze-7-for-all-mankind-campaign/ [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] InStyle.com. (2017). Zoë Saldana Is the Face of 7 for All Mankind’s B(air) Denim. [online] Available at: http://www.instyle.com/news/zoe-saldana-7-allmankind-campaign-bair-jeans [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] Jeans., M. (2017). Marianne: A Very Thorough Review of Seven’s Slim Illusion Skinny Jeans.. [online] Looksgoodfromtheback.com. Available at: http:// www.looksgoodfromtheback.com/2012/10/marianne-very-thorough-review-of-sevens.html [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] Own field research. (2017). Interviews with customers via Instagram, Email and Physical Store [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] Pettas, M. (2017). A Brief History Of 7 For All Mankind. [online] Culture Trip. Available at: https://theculturetrip.com/north-america/usa/california/ articles/a-brief-history-of-7-for-all-mankind/ [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] Refinery29.com. (2017). How This Early-Aughts Denim Brand Is Keeping Up With Athleisure’s Rise. [online] Available at: http://www.refinery29. com/2016/07/116097/7-for-all-mankind-new-denim-jeans [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] Retail Merchandiser. (2017). 7 For All Mankind. [online] Available at: http://www.retail-merchandiser.com/7-print/featured-content/535-7-for-allmankind [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] Swarovski-elements.acriba.at. (2017). Swarovski: Branding Partners :: 7 For All Mankind. [online] Available at: http://swarovski-elements.acriba.at/ branding-partners/7-for-all-mankind/ [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] YouTube. (2017). 7ForAllMankindJeans. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/user/7ForAllMankindJeans/videos [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] Youtube. (2014) True Stories Featuring 7 For All Mankind. [online] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DxhHv3TTCs [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] Youtube. (2015) Women Try Jeans In One Size, Different Brands. [online] [online] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DxhHv3TTCs [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] Zissu, A. (2017). Organic Jeans Take a New Route: Sustainability. [online] Nytimes.com. Available at: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/01/06/fashion/06ORGANICJEANS.html?mcubz=0 [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017] Visual Goldenesquartier. (2917) Simi and Haze Khadra [online] Available at: http://goldenesquartier.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/b_7fam2.jpg [Accessed 18 Sep. 2017] Instagram. (2017). Instagram post by idalia • Sep 1, 2017 at 4:10am UTC. [online] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BYfAcSdhvDt/?taken-by=idaliasalsamendi [Accessed 18 Sep. 2017] Static.webshopapp.com. (2017). [online] Available at: http://static.webshopapp.com/shops/010072/files/009610009/7-for-all-mankind-skinny-olivyagoldfield-rivers.jpg [Accessed 18 Sep. 2017] Queenofjetlags.com. (2017). [online] Available at: http://queenofjetlags.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/queen-of-jet-lags161.jpg [Accessed 18 Sep. 2017]

Acne Jeans Text Acne Studios. (2017) [online] Available at: https://www.acnestudios.com/fr/en/about/about.html [accessed: 6 September 2017] Anches, M. (2017) Nieuwe radicale denim-koers voor Acne [online] Available at: http://www.textilia.nl/Nieuws/Nieuwe_denimkoers_voor_Acne170323125854#.Wbg3eMhJbIV [accessed at 10 September 2017] Berlinger, M. (2017) Acne Studios Just Made a Big Change to Their Denim Lineup [online] Available at: https://www.gq.com/story/acne-studios-jeans-denim-new-collection [accessed: 7 September 2017] BOF. (N/A) Acne Studios [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/companies/acne-studios [accessed: 5 September 2017] Cochrane, L. (2013) Acne: 10 things you should know about the hot fashion brand [online] Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/ jun/25/acne-10-things-fashion-brand [accessed: 8 September 2017] Fairwear. (2016) Performance check Acne studios [online] available at: https://www.fairwear.org/resource/acne-studios-performance-check-2016/ attachment/acne-studios-performance-check_2016/ [accessed: 10 September 2017]. Fury, A. (2015) Acne Studios: Jonny Johansson has given the company’s clothing a sense of twisted boredom [online] Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/acne-studios-jonny-johansson-has-given-the-companys-clothing-a-sense-of-twisted-boredom-10117292. html [accessed: 9 September 2017] Hawkins, L. (2017) Good jeans: Acne Studios’ new denim outpost in Shibuya strikes a blue note. [online] Available at: https://www.wallpaper.com/ fashion/acne-studios-new-denim-store-in-shibuya#gtPVj4qbKpsJpPiL.99 [accessed: 12 September 2017] Hey Women. (2017) Acne Studios launches denim line “Blå Konst” [online] Available at: http://hey-woman.com/news/acne-studios-launches-denimline-bla-konst/ [accessed: 10 September 2017] Johnson, N. (2016) Acne Studios Founder Jonny Johansson Is Not Down with Our Celebrity Fashion Obsession [online] Available at: https://www. gq.com/story/acne-studios-designer-jonny-johansson-interview [accessed: 9 September 2017] Marrazzo, J. (2015) Creative Souls. [online] Available at: http://hazine.com/portraits/label/acne-studios/ [accessed at: 9 September 2017] Numero. (2016) A Meeting with the founder of Acne Studios, Jonny Johansson [online] Available at: http://www.numero.com/en/fashion/acne-studios-interview-Jonny-Johansson [accessed: 8 September 2017] Phelps, N. (2014) Acne Studio’s Jonny Johansson on Getting Out of the Denim Box [online] Available at: https://www.vogue.com/article/acne-studio-jonny-johansson [accessed: 6 September 2017] Something about. (2015) The Evolution of ACNE Studios. [online] Available at: https://www.somethingaboutmagazine.com/evolution-acne-studios/ [accessed: 7 September 2017] Visual Unknown. N/A. [image] available at: https://global.rakuten.com/ko/store/mb/item/-x-30h133-162-rreform-x-/ [accessed 16 September 2017] Hawkins, L. (2017) Good jeans: Acne Studios’ new denim outpost in Shibuya strikes a blue note [image] availavle at: https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/acne-studios-new-denim-store-in-shibuya [accessed: 15 September 2017] Unknown. N/A. pantone [image] available at: https://www.pantone.com/color-finder [accessed 16 September 2017] Unknown. (2017) Space Matters [image] available at: http://www.space-matters.com/2017/04/bla-konst/#information [accessed: 16 September 2017] Unknown. (2017). Instagram [image] available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BXp9y21hSEv/?tagged=acnejeans [accessed: 15 September 2017] Acne Studios (2017). Webshop [image] available at: http://www.acnestudios.com/nl/en/woman/jeans/ [accessed: 17 September 2017] Compain, H. (2017) Have Acne Studios designed the perfect collection of jeans? [image] available at: http://en.vogue.fr/vogue-hommes/fashion/ diaporama/acne-studios-jeans-denim-bia-konst-collier-schorr-shopping-inspiration-classic-cut-collection/42247#acne-studios-jeans-denim-bla-konstcollier-schorr_image2 [accessed 16 September 2017] Carhartt WIP Text baz.ch/. (2017). Die internationalen Modemacher aus Basel. [online] Available at: https://bazonline.ch/basel/stadt/Die-internationalen-Modemacher-aus-Basel/story/24874077 [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Blümner, H. (2017). Our Responsibility as a Company - Carhartt WORK IN PROGRESS. Boykins, A. (2017). How Carhartt WIP is Providing a Voice for the Working Class. [online] HYPEBEAST. Available at: https://hypebeast.com/2015/10/ carhartt-wip-edwin-faeh [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Carhartt-wip.com. (2017). Carhartt Work in Progress | Official Online Shop. [online] Available at: https://www.carhartt-wip.com [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Facebook.com. (2017). Carhartt Work In Progress. [online] Available at: https://www.facebook.com/carharttwip/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. I-d. (2017). the carhartt wip archives: how this work in progress celebrates, cultivates and collaborates in youth subcultures. [online] Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/ywda4j/the-carhartt-wip-archives-how-this-work-in-progress-celebrates-cultivates-and-collaborates-in-youth-subcultures [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Instagram.com. (2017). Carhartt Work In Progress (@carharttwip) â€¢ Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https://www.instagram. com/carharttwip/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. InStyle. (2017). Was wÃ¤re Streetstyle ohne das Label Carhartt WIP? Ein Interview mit den GrÃ¼ndern. [online] Available at: http://www.instyle.de/ fashion/interview-carhartt [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. issuu. (2017). Carhartt WIP Situation Analysis. [online] Available at: https://issuu.com/ellisanthony/docs/carharttwipsituationalanalysisword [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Kaufmann, M. (2017). Der coolste Chef der Schweiz: «Carhartt hat in 26 Jahren niemanden entlassen ». [online] Blick.ch. Available at: https://www. blick.ch/news/wirtschaft/der-coolste-chef-der-schweiz-carhartt-hat-in-26-jahren-niemanden-entlassen-id4735840.html [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. nss magazine. (2017). Short analysis of Carhartt WIP’s success. [online] Available at: http://www.nssmag.com/en/fashion/9243/short-analysis-of-carhartt-wip-s-success [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Tyers, S., Tyers, S. and profile, V. (2017). Carhartt. [online] Theraveproject.blogspot.nl. Available at: http://theraveproject.blogspot.nl/2015/02/carhartt.html [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Warnett, G., Sinofzik, A., Kessler, M., Lebugle, M. and Luna, I. (n.d.). The Carhartt WIP archives. YouTube. (2017). Carhartt WIP. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/user/CarharttWip [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Visual Ajsha Beganovic (2017). Laurens Meister. [image] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BWalUHen7Bx/?taken-by=ajsbeg [Accessed 16 Sep. 2017].

REFERENCES Carhartt-wip.com. (2017). Carhartt WIP Stores | carhartt-wip.com. [online] Available at: https://www.carhartt-wip.com/en/stores/5229 [Accessed 16 Sep. 2017]. Carhartt-wip.com. (2017). Carhartt WIP Stores | carhartt-wip.com. [online] Available at: https://www.carhartt-wip.com/en/stores/carhartt [Accessed 16 Sep. 2017]. Instagram.com. (2017). Carhartt Work In Progress (@carharttwip) â€¢ Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https://www.instagram. com/carharttwip/ [Accessed 16 Sep. 2017]. Warnett, G., Sinofzik, A., Kessler, M., Lebugle, M. and Luna, I. (n.d.). The Carhartt WIP archives. Cheap Monday Text Interview with sales associate of Weekday, Rokin 84, 1012 KX Amsterdam [retrieved 6 september 2017] By author, 2017, Weekday Amsterdam [image]. Cheap Monday. From: https://www.cheapmonday.com/ [retrieved 8 september 2017] Cheap Monday Instagram. From: https://www.instagram.com/cheapmonday/ [retrieved 8 september 2017] Cheap Monday Pinterest. From: https://www.pinterest.se/itscheapmonday/ [retrieved 8 september 2017] Cheap Monday Facebook. From: https://www.facebook.com/cheapmonday [retrieved 8 september 2017] Cheap Monday Twitter. From: https://twitter.com/cheapmonday [retrieved 8 september 2017] Clash Music, 2017, Live Gallery: Tom Grennan x Darlia - Cheap Monday In-Store Event, London. From: http://www.clashmusic.com/live/live-gallerytom-grennan-x-darlia-cheap-monday-in-store-event-london [retrieved 9 september 2017] Levy, V., 2017, Cheap Monday’s Sustainable Denims. From: http://www.clashmusic.com/fashion/cheap-mondays-sustainable-denims [retrieved 9 september 2017] Clash Fashion, 2016, Cheap Monday: Denim Talk. From: http://www.clashmusic.com/fashion/cheap-monday-denim-talk [retrieved 9 september 2017] Clash Music, 2016, Dead! To Play Cheap Monday In-Store Event. From: http://www.clashmusic.com/news/dead-to-play-cheap-monday-in-store-event [retrieved 9 september 2017] Clash Music, 2016, Cheap Monday #TightAlright Contest. From: http://www.clashmusic.com/fashion/cheap-monday-tightalright-contest [retrieved 9 september 2017] Waller-Davies, B., 2017, From Arket to Weekday: The many faces of H&M. From: https://www.retail-week.com/sectors/fashion/from-arket-to-weekday-the-many-faces-of-hm/7025508.article [retrieved 9 september 2017] Boyer, J., 2016, Cheap Monday Introduces Full Denim Recyclability With Sustainability Project. From: http://www.highsnobiety.com/2016/11/11/ cheap-monday-co-sustainability/ [retrieved 9 september 2017] Key, A., 2017, Cheap Monday Appoints Creative Director. From: https://www.drapersonline.com/news/cheap-monday-appoints-creative-director/7021486.article [retrieved 9 september 2017] Kilcooley-O’Halloran, S., 2014, Cheap Monday: More Than Skinny Jeans. From: http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/cheap-monday-ann-sofie-back-tenth-anniversary [retrieved 9 september 2017] Pearson, D., 2016, Cheap Monday & Faustine Steinmetz Link Up For Black Metal-Influenced Collection. From: http://www.highsnobiety. com/2016/04/08/cheap-monday-faustine-steinmetz-collection/ [retrieved 9 september 2017] Fashion Network, 2014, Cheap Monday store in Paris [image]. http://se.fashionnetwork.com/news/Cheap-Monday-has-opened-in-the-Marais,399178. html#.Wb4vihOGN-U [retrieved 9 september 2017] Ugly Cute, 2011, Cheap Monday store in Copenhagen [image]. From: http://retaildesignblog.net/2011/09/13/cheap-monday-store-by-uglycute-copenhagen/ [retrieved 9 september 2017] Cheap Monday, unknown, Cheap Monday store in Beijing [image]. From: https://www.cheapmonday.com/nl/Customer_Service/Stores/beijing-china [retrieved 9 september 2017] Cheap Monday, unknown, Cheap Monday store in Copenhagen [image]. From: https://www.cheapmonday.com/nl/About [retrieved 9 september 2017] Hogan, V., 2012, Cheap Monday opens first UK store [image]. From: http://www.globalblue.com/discover/cheap-monday-opens-first-uk-store/ Cheap Monday, unknown, Cheap Monday store in London [image]. From: https://www.cheapmonday.com/gb/Customer_Service/Stores/london-uk [retrieved 9 september 2017] Cheap Monday Blog, 2011, Hello Russia [image]. From: http://blog.cheapmonday.com/page/11/ [retrieved 9 september 2017] Yanique, 2014, Cheap Monday opens in Paris [image]. From: https://myparisianlife.com/2014/04/15/cheap-monday-opens-in-paris/ (retrieved 9 september 2017] Hey Gents, 2015, Cheap Monday Pop-Up Stores in Sydney [image]. From: https://heygents.com.au/2015/06/cheap-monday-pop-up-stores-in-sydney/ [retrieved 9 september 2017] Tortora, L., 2014, Cheap Monday Opens Store in Paris [image]. From: http://www.vogue.it/en/trends/shop-in-the-shops/2014/04/cheap-mondayopens-in-paris [retrieved 9 september 2017] Associated Press, 2005, Anti-Christian Jeans Are A Trend In Sweden. From: http://www.foxnews.com/story/2005/12/30/anti-christian-jeans-are-trendin-sweden.html [retrieved 13 september 2017] Wilson, S., 2013, The Satanic Logo History Of Cheap Monday Clothing Company. From: http://www.unexplainable.net/religion/The-Satanic-Logo-History-of-Cheap-Monday-Clothing-Company.php [retrieved 13 september 2017] Visual Atldax, B., 2004, Cheap Monday Logo [image]. From: http://clients.3xhappiness.com/wardrobek/brands/cheap-monday/ [retrieved 16 september 2017]

Rehbein, N., 2017, Thank you Cheap Monday for the amazing outfit [image]. From: https://www.instagram.com/p/BWNx-7JA-nM/?taken-by=nicolarehbein [retrieved 16 september 2017] Walker, N., 2016, Hypnosis campaign [image]. From: http://nicolewalker.se/cheap-monday-pre-fall-15-2/ [retrieved 16 september 2017] Cheap Monday, unknown, Cheap Monday Store in Copenhagen [image]. From: https://www.cheapmonday.com/gb/About [retrieved 16 september 2017] Unknown, unknown, Nature was here [image]. From: http://www.thethingswesay.com/nature-was-here/ [retrieved 16 september 2017] Cheap Monday, unknown, We believe in a better, more sustainable future and we look forward to getting there with you [image]. From: https://www. cheapmonday.com/gb/Sustainability [retrieved 16 september 2017] Cheap Monday, unknown, High Spray Cut Black Jeans [image]. From: https://www.cheapmonday.com/gb/jeans/women/high-spray-cut-blackjeans/4930636-9657567.1?image=5012671#9657569 [retrieved 16 september 2017] DENHAM Text Bartelds, J., 2014, Amsterdam Denham Movement From: www.marketingonline.nl/artikel/amsterdam-denham-movement [retrieved 08 September 2017]. Denham the Jeanmaker, 2014, Denham Psycho From: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpHU6TkqWjs [retrieved 06 September 2017]. Denham the Jeanmaker, 2015, The Jeanmaker From: https;//www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgaWQtrQr2w&spfreload=10 [retrieved 10 September 2017]. Denham, J., 2015, Who is Jason Denham? From: www.denhamthejeanmaker.com/studio/73/the-jeanmaker-who-is-jason-denham.html [retrieved 06 September 2017]. Kops, H., 2015, Testimonial Denham the Jeanmaker From: https://www.iamsterdam.com/en/business/key-sectors/creative/testimonials/denham [retrieved 08 September 2017]. Jonker, Y., 2016, Interview met Jason Denham From: www.the-urbanites.nl/interview-met-jason-denham/ [retrieved 11 September 2017]. LaCertosa, B., 2016, ‘Denham Customer and Staff Interviews’. Lampe, B., 2015, Jason Denham over het succes van Denham jeans From: www.bregjelampe.nl/jason-denham-over-het-succes-van-denham-jeans [retrieved 08 September 2017]. LLC, J., 2014, Jason Denham, Jeanmaker From: http://jeanstories.com/the-stories/jason-denham-jeanmaker/ [retrieved 10 September 2017]. Lun, B., 2012, What makes a Denham jean? From: www.ilovejeans.com/mens-room-what-makes-a-denham-jean/ [retrieved 06 September 2017]. Pavirini, M.C., 2014, Stories: Denham to open further stores in Germany, Japan and Australia From: http://www.sportswear-international.com/news/ stories/Denham-to-open-further-stores-in-Germany-Japan-and-Australia-8515 [retrieved 08 September 2017]. Russell, M., 2015, Jason Denham raises the bar on denim innovation From: www.just-style.com/interview/jason-denham-raises-the-bar-on-denim-innovation_id125135.aspx [retrieved 06 September 2017]. Shuck, D., 2015, Soap nuts - Denham’s new way to wash jeans From: https://www.heddels.com/2015/07/soap-nuts-denhams-new-way-wash-jeans/ [retrieved 09 September 2017]. Travi, P., 2014, Jason Denham, founder of Denham - studio visit and interview From: https://www.heddels.com/2014/01/jason-denham-founder-denham-studio-visit-interview/ [retrieved 06 September 2017]. Trotman, S., 2014, WGSN Insider Global Denim Awards From: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/amsterdam-celebrates-the-first-annual-global-denim-awards/ [retrieved 08 September 2017]. van Loon, E., 2008, Eigen merk Jason Denham From: https://www.fashionunited.nl/Nieuws/Leads/Eigen_merk_Jason_Denham_2008091217721/ [retrieved 10 September 2017]. Visits Denham Men’s Store Amsterdam, Prinsengracht Amsterdam Denham Coffee and Concept Store, Prinsengracht 53, 1016HR Amsterdam Denham Men’s Denim Bar, Runstraat 18, 1016GJ Amsterdam Denham Woman’s Denim Bar, Runstraat 15, 1016GJ Amsterdam Denham Women’s Store, Runstraat 17, 1016GJ Amsterdam Denham Flagshipstore, Hobbemastraat 6/8, 1071ZA Amsterdam DIESEL Text Caramanica, J. (2016) A brief visit with my inner diesel. The New York Times. [online] Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2016/03/10/fashion/ diesel-a-madison-avenue-store-with-an-eighth-street-soul.html?mcubz=1 [Accessed September 2017] Dziamski, M. (2016) How sustainable is Diesel? Rank a brand. [online] Available at: https://rankabrand.org/sustainable-denim-jeans/Diesel [Accessed September 2017] Carbone, K. (2010) Hey stupid Diesel thinks you’re awesome. Fast Company. [online] Available at: https://www.fastcompany.com/1528783/hey-stupid-diesel-thinks-youre-awesome [ Accessed September 2017] Williams, E. (2015) Diesel shows how creative thinking can make programmatic ads fun. Creative Review. [online] Available at: https://www.creativereview.co.uk/diesel-shows-how-creative-thinking-can-make-programmatic-ads-fun/ [Accessed September 2017] Williams, E. (2017) The pros and cons of mixing advertising with politics. [online] Creative review. https://www.creativereview.co.uk/mixing-advertising-politics/ [Accessed September 2017] Venman, K. (2016) Diesel gets provocative and partners up with Pornhub. Dmarge. [online] Available at: https://www.dmarge.com/2016/01/diesel-advertises-with-pornhub.html [Accessed September 2017] Romano, E. (2016) Diesel becomes the official style partner of AC Milan. Dmarge. [online] Available at: https://www.dmarge.com/2016/10/diesel-ac-milan-partnership.html [Accessed September 2017] Lee, A. (2014) The history of Diesel – The rebel brand. Bang and strike. [online] Available at: http://www.bangandstrike.com/bangtalk/history-of-diesel/ [Accessed September 2017] Wright, B. (2017) Diesel partners on denim counterfeit guard technology. https://www.just-style.com/news/diesel-partners-on-denim-counterfeit-guard-technology_id129963.aspx Diesel (2017) About Diesel. Diesel. [online] Available at: http://nl.diesel.com/en/about-diesel/article-aboutdiesel.html [Accessed September 2017]

REFERENCES The OTB Group (2017) The Group. Only The Brave Group. [online] Available at: https://www.otb.net/en/the-group/ [Accessed September 2017] The OTB Group (2017) Social responsibility. Only The Brave Group [online] Available at: https://www.otb.net/en/social-responsibility/ [Accessed September 2017] The OTB Group (2017) Code of Ethics. Only The Brave Group. [online] Available at: https://www.otb.net/data/the-group_6ad97/categorie/7/code_of_ ethics_inglese_vers_genna_15_49456.pdf [Accessed September 2017] Grigorian, V. (2008) Diesel for successful living. The Business School for the world. [online] Available at: https://cases.insead.edu/diesel/documents/4948-Diesel-1-CSW.pdf [Accessed September 2017] Diesel (2017) Go with the flaw. Diesel. [online] Available at: http://campaign.diesel.com/gowiththeflaw/en.html [Accessed September 2017] Lawrence, J. (2016) What I’ve learned: Renzo Rosso (Interview) Esquire Middle East. [online] http://www.esquireme.com/content/17675-what-ivelearned-renzo-rosso [Accessed September 2017] The Interview – Renzo Rosso (2016) ET NOW [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QlW7Idt3Fk [Accessed September 2017] ‘Everyone makes mistakes’ Renzo Rosso on hiring John Galliano (2016) GulfNewsTV [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUbD6J3s1_k [Accessed September 2017] Renzo Rosso & Nicola Formichetti (2015) Shenkar Art. Design. Engineering. [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sU8QTCKEa2U [Accessed September 2017] Up close and Personal with Nicola Formichetti (2016) 10magazineblog [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPOiIsrBuPc [Accessed September 2017] Diesel Fall/Winter 2016.17 | Tokyo (2016) Male Model Corp 3 [video] Available at; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDBXmrkUHBw [Accessed September 2017] Diesel – Go with the flaw (2017) Diesel [video] Available at:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aYxG1ASrYKo [Accessed September 2017] Diesel – Make love not walls (2017) Diesel [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COXx3YTNW1s [Accessed September 2017] Diesel Japan Presents: The Wall – SS17 Campaign movie. (2017) Diesel [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7mP3u2JPxo [Accessed September 2017] Diesel JoggJeans Fall/Winter 2017 Campaign (2017) Fashionisto [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0tHaZymWHI [Accessed September 2017] Balster, T. (2017) Diesel just went Blank on Instagram to underline its new campaign ‘’Go with the flaw’’. Indie.[online] Available at: http://indie-mag. com/2017/09/diesel-instagram-blank/ [Accessed September 2017] Fashion United (2017) Fashion United. [online] Available at: https://au.fashionunited.com/news/fashion/diesel-go-blank-on-instagram-as-they-launchgo-with-the-flaw-campaign/201709062417 [Accessed September 2017] Fashion United (2017) Fashion United. [online] Available at: https://au.fashionunited.com/news/fashion/mixing-fashion-and-politics-is-it-a-goodidea/201704122102 [Accessed September 2017] Dr. Denim Text Accent Clothing Blog. (2017). Product Review: Dr Denim Jeans. [online] Available at: https://www.accentclothing.com/blog/product-review-dr-denimjeans/ [Accessed 19 Sep. 2017]. Monmum. (2017). The Dr Denim Challenge!. [online] Available at: http://monmum.com/the-dr-denim-challenge/ [Accessed 19 Sep. 2017]. Trustpilot. (2017). Dr Denim Jeansmakers is rated “Average” with 5.4 / 10 on Trustpilot. [online] Available at:https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/drdenimjeans.com [Accessed 19 Sep. 2017]. Business-sweden.se. (2017). Dr. Denim, USA. [online] Available at: http://www.business- sweden.se/en/Trade/analysis-and-reports/success-cases/dr.denim-usa/ [Accessed 15 Sep. 2017]. Drdenimjeans.com. (2017). Dr. Denim. [online] Available at: https://drdenimjeans.com/eu/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_6Ko0O-m1gIVjp3tCh2_ ZAbaEAAYASAAEgLtP_D_BwE [Accessed 15 Sep. 2017]. Facebook.com. (2017). Dr. Denim. [online] Available at: https://www.facebook.com/drdenimjeans/ [Accessed 15 Sep. 2017]. Frontmen.com. (2017). Interview with Dr Denim at FRONTMEN.com. [online] Available at: https://frontmen.com/us/world-of-frontmen/interviews/ meet-the-brand-dr-denim [Accessed 15 Sep. 2017]. Instagram.com. (2017). Dr. Denim OFFICIAL (@drdenim) • Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/drdenim/ [Accessed 15 Sep. 2017]. Rankabrand.nl. (2017). Dr. Denim en duurzaamheid: zoek duurzame merken op Rank a Brand. [online] Available at: https://rankabrand.nl/duurzame-jeans-spijkerbroek/Dr.+Denim [Accessed 15 Sep. 2017]. Somedays.com.au. (2017). Dr. Denim Interview. [online] Available at: https://somedays.com.au/ blogs/shop/13945929-dr-denim-interview [Accessed 15 Sep. 2017]. Vitarelli, S. and Vitarelli, S. (2017). Dr. Denim: A New Face of Denim. [online] Social the Lifestyle Magazine. Available at: http://socialifestylemag.com/ dr-denim-a-new-face-of-denim/ [Accessed 15 Sep. 2017]. YouTube. (2017). Dr Denim - Spring summer 2012 / Fall winter 2013. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTEP6qzfIFc [Accessed 15 Sep. 2017]. YouTube. (2017). Dr. Denim: A Decade of Life & Denim - YouTube. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiPj9OPTfEU [Accessed 15 Sep. 2017]. YouTube. (2017). WeLoveFashion.TV: Johannes & Alexander Graah, Dr. Denim Jeansmakers. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=pW-F-C_y-wo [Accessed 15 Sep. 2017]. Visual Drdenimjeans.com. (2017). Relax, take it easy. [online] Available at: https:// www.drdenimjeans.com/se/relax-take-it-easy [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017]. Drdenimjeans.com. (2017). Store Locator. [online] Available at: https://www.drdenimjeans.com/se/ storelocator [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017].

Drdenimjeans.com. (2017). To the mountain and back again!. [online] Available at: https:// www.drdenimjeans.com/se/to-the-mountain-and-backagain [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017]. Instagram. (2017). Instagram post by Dr. Denim OFFICIAL • Sep 7, 2017 at 12:03pm UTC. [online] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BYvTZm3AmmH/?taken-by=drdenim [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017]. Instagram.com. (2017). Dr. Denim OFFICIAL (@drdenim) • Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/drdenim/ [Accessed 17 Sep. 2017]. EVISU Text Campaign Asia. (2012). Japanese jeans brand Evisu enlists enfant-terrible Edison Chen as first APAC ambassador. [online]Available at:http://www.campaignasia.com/article/japanese-jeans-brand-evisu-enlists-enfant-terrible-edison-chen-as-first-apac-amba/310676 [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Don’t Panic UK. (2011). Design Brief > EVISU - MAKE THE RULES. [online] Available at: http://www.dontpaniconline.com/designbrief/evisu-make-therules [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Evisu.com. (2017). About Us. [online] Available at: https://www.evisu.com/eu/about-us/ [Accessed 12 Sep.2017]. Heddels. (2013). A Brief Conversation With Takanori Enami - Design Director of Evisu. [online] Available at: https://www.heddels.com/2013/06/abrief-conversation-with-takanori-enami-design-director-of-evisu/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Just-style.com. (2005). Super-cool Japanese denim. [online] Available at: https://www.just-style.com/analysis/super-cool-japanese-denim_id92523. aspx [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Lorna, E. (2009). Interview with Scott Morrison of Evisu Jeans. [online] Celebrities in Designer Jeans from Denim Blog. Available at: http://www.denimblog.com/2009/12/interview-with-scott-morison-of-evisu-jeans/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Magazine, W. (2009). Evisu comeback: Interview with CEO Scott Morrison | Fashion | Wallpaper* Magazine. [online] Wallpaper*. Available at: https:// www.wallpaper.com/fashion/evisu-comeback-interview-with-ceo-scott-morrison [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Travi, P. (2013). A Conversation with Rhys Davies, Sales Director of EVISU. [online] Heddels. Available at: https://www.heddels.com/2013/08/interview-with-rhys-davies-evisus-sales-director/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. YouTube. (2017). EVISU Official. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQuvOqW0zekht5yDAPKduGA/about [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Trotman, S. (2011). Evisu Celebrates 20 Years of Denim. [online] WGSN Insider. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/evisu-celebrates-20-yearsof-denim/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Trotman, S. (2013). Insa x Evisu: The Extreme Daicock Jean. [online] WGSN Insider. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/insa-x-evisu-the-extreme-daicock-jean/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Walpita, S. (2009). Visual Denim Diary. [online] WGSN Insider. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/visual-denim-diary/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. WGSN Insider. (2009). Evisu: Re-launch. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/evisu-re-launch/[Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Wgsn.com. (2012). Contemporary & creative: Evisu, London. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/135615/page/1 [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Wgsn.com. (2013). Denim concept store: Evisu, Hong Kong. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/135750/page/1 [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Evisu.com. (2017). Evisu Official Site | Iconic Japanese Denim Brand | Designer Streetwear. [online] Available at: https://www.evisu.com [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. H, D. (2011). Eleventh day (July 15th) – Store Visit : Evisu. [online] Dandy Harun & Bros. Available at: https://dandyharun.wordpress.com/2011/12/05/ eleventh-day-july-15th-store-visit-evisu/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Instagram.com. (2017). EVISU OFFICIAL (@evisu1991) • Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/evisu1991/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Ropedye.com. (2014). Why EVISU’s Private Stock No. 2 Jeans Is A Collectors Item. [online] Available at: https://www.ropedye.com/2014/05/evisu-private-stock-no-2-jeans/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. F.TAPE | The Online Fashion Resource. (2016). EVISU SS16 Campaign | FTAPE.COM. [online] Available at: http://ftape.com/media/evisu-ss16-campaign/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. YouTube. (2017). EVISU Spring/Summer 2017 Collection. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wn6P_-c1730 [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Duits, J. (2013). FASHION JAPAN: Evisu. [online] Japanesestreets.com. Available at: http://www.japanesestreets.com/fashion-brands/356/evisu [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Eliott, N. (2009). Finish Counting. [online] WGSN Insider. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/finish- Gore, D. (2014). Global Digest – Bespoke Denim. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/53851/page/11 [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. WGSN Insider. (2010). Tributes vs Copyrights. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/tributes-vs-copyrights/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. YouTube. (2011). Evisu Limited Edition Hand Painting Video.m4v. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wgy6hNmD9s [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Agarwal, S. (2011). Q&A With Ex-Evisu Creative Director – J Diamandis. [online] Denim Jeans | Trends, News and Reports | Worldwide. Available at: https://www.denimsandjeans.com/japanese-denim/qa-with-ex-evisu-creative-director-j-diamondis/1344 [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Belk, R. (2010). Research in Consumer Behaviour. 1st ed. London: Emerald Group Publishing Limited, p.133. Bread & Butter. (2014). EVISU D*FACE Limited Edition Collection - Bread & Butter. [online] Available at: http://www.breadandbutter.com.sg/evisu-dface-limited-edition-collection/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Cardiner, B. (2015). EVISU x New Era Collaboration Cap | Highsnobiety. [online] Highsnobiety. Available at: http://www.highsnobiety.com/2015/04/23/ evisu-new-era-mighty-cap/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Evans, K. (2017). How high-end denim brand Evisu finds a fit with web shoppers outside Asia. [online] Digital Commerce 360. Available at: https:// www.digitalcommerce360.com/2017/01/23/premium-denim-brand-evisu-finds-fit-shoppers-outside-asia/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017].

REFERENCES Looklive.com. (2016). Pusha T - Shopping at Riccardi Boston after he visited Harvard University on Looklive. [online] Available at: http://www.looklive. com/appearances/pusha-t-shopping-at-riccardi-boston-after-he-visited-harvard-university-wearing-gucci-straight-adidas-sneakers-2016-04-03/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Sheridan, D. (2016). Evisu Collaborates with Durex Condoms. [online] Heddels. Available at: https://www.heddels.com/2016/06/evisu-x-durex-denim-condoms/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Agarwal, S. (2013). AW13 Evisu Collection. [online] Denim Jeans | Trends, News and Reports | Worldwide. Available at: https://www.denimsandjeans. com/brands/denim-collections-international/aw13-evisu-collection/8962 [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Facebook.com. (2017). EVISU. [online] Available at: https://www.facebook.com/evisu/photos/pcb.10154757753766974/10154757747666974/?type=3 [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Yeung, H. (2015). EVISU 2015 Spring/Summer Collection. [online] HYPEBEAST. Available at: https://hypebeast.com/2015/2/evisu-2015-spring-summer-collection [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Carnaby.co.uk. (2017). EVISU - Carnaby London. [online] Available at: https://www.carnaby.co.uk/store/evisu/ [Accessed 14 Sep. 2017]. Harveynichols.com. (2017). Evisu - Harvey Nichols. [online] Available at: http://www.harveynichols.com/int/brand/evisu/ [Accessed 14 Sep. 2017]. VogueNederland. (2017). Amsterdam is een nieuwe conceptstore met kunst, design en mode rijker. [online] Available at: https://www.vogue.nl/fashion/nieuws/artikel/amsterdam-is-een-nieuwe-conceptstore-met-kunst-design-en-mode-rijker [Accessed 14 Sep. 2017]. G-Star Raw Text Menninger C.E., 2017, Sustainability in Fashion: A Cradle to Up-cycle Approach, Palgrave Macmillan, pp. 22-23 G-STAR, G-Star Raw Responsibility, From: h:ps://www.g-star.com/en_us/about-us/responsibility [Retrieved at: 10 September] G-TAR, Manufacturing Map, From: h:ps://www.g-star.com/en_us/about-us/responsibility/manufacturing-map [Retrieved at: 10 September] G-STAR, Raw Research, From: h:ps://www.g-star.com/en_us/rawresearch [Retrieved at: 10 September] G-STAR, Featured Friends, From: h:ps://www.g-star.com/en_us/featured/friends [Retrieved at: 10 September] Struycken, M., 2014, Raw For The Ocean From: h:p://www.styleindicator.com/raw-oceans/ [Retrieved at: 12 September] Hsieh, V., 2017, Aith Throup discusses G-Star Raw and the future of fashion, From: h:p://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/arQcle/34402/1/aitor-throup-discusses-g-star-raw-and-the-future-of-fashion [Retrieved at: 12 September 2017] MODETRACKER, Engagement, From: h:p://g-star.modetracker.org [Retrieved at: 12 September] Malone, H., 2014, OMA envisions G-Star RAW HQ in Amsterdam as airport hangar, From: h:ps://www.designboom.com/architecture/oma-g-star-rawheadquarters-amsterdam-03-24-2014/ [Retrieved at: 12 September] BIONIC YARN, PlasQc recovery, From: h:p://bionic.is, [Retrieved at: 13 September] Visual G-STAR, Logo, From: www.g-star.com, [Retrieved at 9 September] Malone, H., 2014, OMA envisions G-Star RAW HQ in Amsterdam as airport hangar, From: h:ps://www.designboom.com/architecture/oma-g-star-rawheadquarters-amsterdam-03-24-2014/ [Retrieved at: 12 September] Solano, L., 2013, G-Star Raw Latest Campaign “Art of Raw” Totally Rocks, From: h:p://thefabulousreport.com/0117/g-star-raw-latest-campaign-art-ofraw-totally-rocks.html [Retrieved at: 17 September] Berg, W., 2013, G-star RAW Elwood X 14oz Store Berlin Collabo by Designer Pierre Morisset, From: h:p://long-john.nl/g-star-raw-elwood-x-14oz-storeberlin-collabo-by-designer-pierre-morisset/ [Retrieved at: 17 September] G-Star Instagram, 2017, Instagram Feed From: h:ps://www.instagram.com/gstarraw/ [Retrieved at: 17 september] Anthonio Instagram, 2017, Target Group, From: h:ps://www.instagram.com/oh_anthonio/ [Retrieved at: 17 September] G-Star Website, 2017, Label Your New Jeans Now, From: h:ps://www.g-star.com/en_nl/labelyournewjeans [Retrieved at: 17 September] Indigo People Text Denimology. (2014). Denim scarves – Indigo People [online] Available at: https://denimology.com/2014/02/denim-scarves-indigo-people [accessed: 10 September 2017] Indigo people. (2013-2017) [online] Indigopeople.net. Available at: http://www.indigopeople.net/about/ [accessed: 9 September 2017] Indigo people. (2013-2017) [online] Indigopeople.net. Available at: http://www.indigopeople.net/indigo-lovers/ [accessed: 11 September 2017] Indigo people. (2013-2017) [online] Indigopeople.net. Available at: http://www.indigopeople.net/at-a-glance/ accessed: 11 September 2017] Indigo people. (2013-2017) [online] Indigopeople.net. Available at: http://www.indigopeople.net/craftsmanship/ accessed: 11 September 2017] Indigo People. (2015). Indigo People: Natural Indigo Dye [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SpQBaVRJEk [accessed: 10 September 2017] New Fashion Society. and Yen, K (2017) Fashion seminar week – interview with Kiat Yen, Indigo People. [online] Available at: http://www.newfashionsociety.com/blog/fashion-seminar-week-interview-kiat-yen-indigo-people [accessed: 8 September 2017] R. and Yen, K. (2017) Founder of Indigo People [online] robindenim.com. available at url: http://robindenim.com/2017/01/interview-indigo-people/ [accessed: 9 September 2017] Trotman, S. (2014). Introducing: Indigo People.[online] wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/introducing-indigo-people/# [accessed: 7 September 2017]

Wouter.(2014). Scarfs from Natural Indigo [online] Available at: http://long-john.nl/indigo-scarfs-from-natural-indigo/ [accessed: 10 September 2017] Visual Denimhunt (2014). Indigo People Scarves [image] available at: http://www.denimhunt.com/2014/10/08/indigo-people-scarves/ [accessed: 16 September 2017] Unknown. N/A. [image] Available at: http://www.indigopeople.net/ [accessed: 16 September 2017] Unknown. N/A. Instagram [Image] available at: https://www.instagram.com/indigopeople/ [accessed 17 September 2017] Kaufmann, K. N/A. INDIGO CURTAIN CALL [image] available at: http://www.statement-store.com/a-curtain-call-for-the-amazing-minds-of-indigo-people-kiat-and-johan-translated-our-crackpot-idea-of-indigo-dyed-curtains-for-our-dressing-rooms-into-these-masterpieces-these-gems-are-made-of17oz-h/ [accessed: 17 September 2017] Unknown. N/A. [image] available at: https://www.pantone.com/color-finder/5395-C [accessed: 16 September 2017] Unknown. N/A. [image] available at: http://hue-chroma.tumblr.com/post/122679405044/pantone-15-3915-tcx-kentucky-blue [accessed: 16 September 2017] Unknown. N/A. [image] available at: https://www.pinterest.de/pin/545709679827049758/ [accessed: 16 September 2017] Unknown. N/A. Instagram feed Indigo People [Image] available at: https://www.instagram.com/indigopeople/ [accessed: 17 September 2017] Unknown. N/A. Passion for All Handmade [image] available at: http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/com/en/fascination/pure-and-crafted_2016/lifestyle/ main.html [accessed: 16 September 2017] Unknown. N/A. Indigo People/about [image] available at: http://www.indigopeople.net/about/ [accessed: 16 September 2017] Fitzgerald, B. (2015) Young artisan: Indigo People & handwoven dyed scarf scarves [image] available at: http://www.lesouk.co/articles/material-inspiration/young-artisan-indigo-people-handwoven-dyed-scarf-scarves [accessed: 17 September 2017] Indigo People (2017). [image] available at: http://www.indigopeople.net/product-category/bag/ [accessed: 16 September 2017] Kapital Text Own field research. (2017). Interviews with customers via Instagram direct messages and email. KAPITAL catalogue. (2016). What is Century Denim? [article; digital photographs of physical pages] Provided via email by one of the customers of the physical store in Japan. Complex. (2013). The 50 Greatest Japanese Brands of All Time. [online] Available at: http://www.complex.com/style/2013/01/the-50-greatest-japanese-brands-of-all-time/kapital [Accessed 8 Sep. 2017]. Denim Dude (YouTuber) (2015). Visiting Kapital’s stores in Tokyo. [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWovFN9UHEI [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. Jeans in Japan. (2017). Category Briefing. [online] Euromonitor. Available at: http://www.euromonitor.com/ [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. Ponytail Journal. (2017). Kapital: THIS IS AFRICA.. [online] Available at: http://ponytailjournal.com/womens-wear/this-is-africa/ [Accessed 14 Sep. 2017]. Rodengray.com. (2017). Kapital | Roden Gray. [online] Available at: https://rodengray.com/collections/kapital [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. Seriously Spiffy. (2008). japan: kapital. [online] Available at: http://seriouslyspiffy.blogspot.nl/2008/11/japan-kapital.html [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. The Bandanna Almanac. (2012). Interview | Kapital – Kiro and Toshikiyo Hirata – Past, Present, and Century Denim…. [online] Available at: https://bandanna-almanac.com/2012/06/02/interview-kapital-kiro-and-toshikiyo-hirata-past-present-and-century-denim/ [Accessed 10 Sep. 2017]. The Bandanna Almanac. (2016). Kapital | Century Denim No. 123-S. [online] Available at: https://bandanna-almanac.com/2016/01/30/kapital-century-denim-no-123-s/ [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. The Denim Daily. (2015). Kapital travels to Sweden for Fall / Winter ‘15 lookbook - The Denim Daily. [online] Available at: http://thedenimdaily.com/ kapital-travels-to-sweden-for-fall-winter-15-lookbook/ [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. Unionmade Goods (2017). UNIONMADE - Kapital. [online] Unionmade Goods. Available at: https://unionmadegoods.com/brands/kapital/ [Accessed 8 Sep. 2017]. Vogue. (2015). The Best Japanese Denim Labels Every Jeans Collector Needs to Know. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/article/best-japanese-denim-brands-selvedge-jeans [Accessed 8 Sep. 2017]. WGSN. (2015). WHAT’S IN STORE: Visual Merchandising / KAPITAL, TOKYO. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/107324/page/1 [Accessed 11 Sep. 2017]. Visual Lucas Azevedo (2017). [image] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BUHuqzugGmJ/?taken-by=lucasbazevedo [Accessed 8 Sep. 2017]. The Denim Daily. (2015). [image] Available at: http://thedenimdaily.com/kapital-travels-to-sweden-for-fall-winter-15-lookbook/ [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. Pancho and Lefty. (2017). [image] Available at: http://panchoandlefty.se/brands_/ [Accessed 11 Sep. 2017]. Almanac of Style. (2013). [image] Available at: http://almanacofstyle.com/2013/11/01/the-legend-of-kapital-denim/ [Accessed 7 Sep. 2017]. Kapital.jp. (2017). [image] Available at: http://www.kapital.jp/e-store/ [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. Ponytail Journal. (2017) [image] Available at: http://ponytailjournal.com/womens-wear/this-is-africa/ [Accessed 14 Sep. 2017]. Seriously Spiffy. (2008). [image] Available at: http://seriouslyspiffy.blogspot.nl/2008/11/japan-kapital.html [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. Kings of Indigo Text Bread & Butter. (2017) Kings Of Indigo: we are a denim brand. [online] Available at: https://www.onlyformen.nl/blog/kings-of-indigo/ [Accessed 10 Sep. 2017]. Dutch Sustainable Fashion Week. (2017) Kings OF Indigo. [online] Available at: http://dutchsustainablefashionweek.nl/kings-of-indigo/ [Accessed 10 Sep. 2017]. Fashionista. (2017) Whitney’s ready for her first foray instatement jeans. [online]Available at: http://www.notey.com/@fashionista_unofficial/external/17253147/whitney-s-ready-for-her-first-foray-into-statement-jeans.html [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Fashion United. (2016) Not your next G-Star denim label. [online] Available at: https://fashionunited.com/news/retail/kings-of-indigo-not-your-next-g-

REFERENCES star-denim-label/2016031410614 [Accessed 7 Sep. 2017]. Kings Of Indigo. (2017). [online] Available at: https://www.kingsofindigo.com [Accessed 7 Sep. 2017]. Linda Nieuws. (2015) Kings Of Indigo re-uses denim from Amsterdam. [online] Available at: https://www.lindanieuws.nl/lifestyle/kings-of-indigo-hergebruikt-denim-uit-amsterdam/ [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. Only For Men. (2016) Kings Of Indigo. [online] Available at: https://www.onlyformen.nl/blog/kings-of-indigo/ [Accessed 8 Sep. 2017]. Own field research. (2017). Interviews with customers via Instagram and email. Project Just. (2016) Kings Of Transparency. [online] Available at: https://projectjust.com/brand_kingsofindigo/ [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. Rank A Brand. (2017) Kings Of Indigo. [online] Available at: https://rankabrand.org/sustainable-denim-jeans/Kings+of+Indigo [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. WGSN. (2012) Kings of Indigo - Sustainable denim made with a Conscience. [online] Available at: https://www.lindanieuws.nl/lifestyle/kings-of-indigo-hergebruikt-denim-uit-amsterdam/ [Accessed 8 Sep. 2017]. Visual Doris Chan (2017). [image] Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/131448882851031666/ [Accessed 7 Sep. 2017]. K.O.I (2017). [image] Available at: https://www.kingsofindigo.com/en_NL/brandstories?id=RichContentItem_Soft%20and%20Fluid [Accessed 7 Sep. 2017]. Long Jonh (2017). Kings Of Indigo presents Triple R Collection. [image] Available at:http://long-john.nl/kings-of-indigo-presents-triple-r-pieces/ [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. K.O.I (2017). [image] Available at: http://www.kingsofindigo.com/en_NL/women/jeans/marian-denim/2010200093.html?dwvar_2010200093_color=MUSED&dwvar_2010200093_variantSize=24#sz=24&start=12 [Accessed 7 Sep. 2017]. Long Jonh (2017). Kings Of Indigo presents Triple R Collection. [image] Available at:http://long-john.nl/kings-of-indigo-presents-triple-r-pieces/ [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. Sissy Boy (2017). [image] Available at: http://ina-matt.com/portfolio/sissy-boy-store [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. K.O.I (2017). [image] Available at: https://www.kingsofindigo.com/en_NL/brandstories?id=RichContentItem_The%20Flares [Accessed 7 Sep. 2017]. Kuyichi Text Dutch Sustainable Fashion Week. (2017) Kuyichi. [online] Available at: http://dutchsustainablefashionweek.nl/kings-of-indigo/ [Accessed 10 Sep. 2017]. Fashionista. (2017) Whitneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ready for her first foray instatement jeans. [online] Available at: http://www.notey.com/@fashionista_unofficial/external/17253147/whitney-s-ready-for-her-first-foray-into-statement-jeans.html [Accessed 12 Sep. 2017]. Fashion United. (2016) Not your next G-Star denim label. [online] Available at: https://fashionunited.com/news/retail/kings-of-indigo-not-your-next-gstar-denim-label/2016031410614 [Accessed 7 Sep. 2017]. Ecoweetjes. (2014) Kuyichi. [online] Available at: http://www.ecoweetjes.nl/mode/kuyichi/ [Accessed 6 Sep. 2017]. Fashion Revolution. (2014) Who made your Kuyichi jeans. [online] Available at: http://fashionrevolution.org/who-made-your-kuyichi-jeans/ [Accessed 6 Sep. 2017]. Hutchens A. (2009) Changing Big Business. [online] Available at: https://books.google.nl/books?id=XE4pPdZTV2kC&pg=PA137&lpg=PA137&dq=kuyichi&source=bl&ots=E7rrI-Rbg7&sig=O1fn144CWtDSv7WeWPS_amv9zt4&hl=ru&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjz_eKg0K 3WAhXrJsAKHas1Djs4MhDoAQgmMAA#v=onepage&q=kuyichi&f=false [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. Just-Style. (2015) Made-By milestones include new sustainability tools. [online] Available at: https://www.just-style.com/analysis/made-by-milestones-include-new-sustainability-tools_id125463.aspx [Accessed 8 Sep. 2017]. Kuyichi & Friends. (2017). [online] Available at: https://www.kuyichifriends.nl [Accessed 7 Sep. 2017]. Kuyichi. (2017). [online] Available at: https://kuyichi.com/ [Accessed 5 Sep. 2017]. Own field research. (2017). Interviews with customers via Instagram and email. Pure Goods Agency. (2017). [online] Available at: http://puregoodsagency.nl/#about [Accessed 7 Sep. 2017]. Rank A Brand. (2017) Kuyichi. [online] Available at: https://rankabrand.org/sustainable-denim-jeans/Kuyichi [Accessed 6 Sep. 2017]. Visual Johanna B (2017). [image] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/johannabnyc [Accessed 7 Sep. 2017]. Kuyichi (2017). Think about plastic. [image] Available at: https://kuyichi.com/2017/06/28/plastic-underwaterproject-ocean/ [Accessed 7 Sep. 2017]. Kuyichi (2017). Logo. [image] Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/152137293640767308/ [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. Kuyichi (2017). [image] Available at: https://kuyichi.com/shop/scott-regular-deep-blue/ [Accessed 7 Sep. 2017]. Kuyichi (2017). [image] Available at: https://kuyichi.com/about-us/ [Accessed 7 Sep. 2017]. Kuyichi and Friends (2017). [image] Available at: https://www.kuyichifriends.nl [Accessed 9 Sep. 2017]. Bevacqua M. (2017). [image] Available at: https://www.behance.net/MartaBevacqua [Accessed 7 Sep. 2017]. Kuyichi (2017) screenshot of Instagram feed. Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Vintage Clothing Text Beazley, M., 2015, Icons Of Style, Octopus Books, pp. 17 [Retrieved at: 14 September] Cultizm.com. (2017). CULTIZM - RAW DENIM. BEST BRANDS. - Levi&#39;s Vintage Clothing. [online] Available at: http://www.cultizm.com/index.php?-

cat=c14_Levi-s-- -Vintage- Clothing.html [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Goodhood. (2017). Levi&#39;s Vintage Clothing - LVC Clothing for Men | Goodhood. [online] Available at: http://goodhoodstore.com/mens/brands/ levis-vintage-clothing [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Goods, U. (2017). UNIONMADE - Levi&#39;s Vintage Clothing. [online] Unionmade Goods. Available at: https://unionmadegoods.com/brands/levis-vintageclothing/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Instagram.com. (2017). LEVI&#39;S VINTAGE CLOTHING (@levis.vintage.clothing) â€¢ Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/levis.vintage.clothing/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Levi.com. (2017). [online] Available at: http://www.levi.com/US/en_US/about [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Priyawat (2017). Levi&#39;s Brand and Product Strategy. [online] De.slideshare.net. Available at: https://de.slideshare.net/anyaratpriyawat/levis-brand- and-product-strategy [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Tearfund.org.nz. (2017). Cite a Website - Cite This For Me. [online] Available at: https://www.tearfund.org.nz/getmedia/135135c5-9701- 4245-964be50864170bff/EthicalFashionReport_2017.pdf.aspx [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. The Business of Fashion. (2017). Inside Leviâ€™s Comeback Plans. [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/inside-levis-comeback-plans [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Vehiclesf.com. (2017). LEVI&#39;S VINTAGE STORE | VehicleSF. [online] Available at: http://vehiclesf.com/levi-s- vintage-store.html [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. WGSN Insider. (2017). Amsterdam Denim Trip: Levi&#39;s Vintage and Made &amp; Crafted Design Studio Visit. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/amsterdam-denim- trip-levis- xx-design- studio-visit/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. WGSN Insider. (2017). For Spring / Summer 2017, Levi&#39;s Vintage Clothing take a trip to the grooviest time in history and celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Summer of Love, its youthful optimism and freewheeling legacy.. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/levis-vintageclothing-gets- groovy-summer-love- collection/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. WGSN Insider. (2017). House of Denim Jean School. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/house-of- denim-jean- school/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. WGSN Insider. (2017). Levi&#39;s Vintage Clothing S/S 13. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/levis-vintageclothing-ss13/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. YouTube. (2017). Behind the Brand | Levis Vintage Clothing. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgWWohIXOCo [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. YouTube. (2017). Interview with Mr. Yosuke Otsubo of Levi&#39;sÂ® Vintage Clothing. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=V6OHjercagA [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. YouTube. (2017). Levis Vintage | Staff Talk. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3Urv3dAIuM [Accessed 13 Sep. 2017]. Visual Lam, G., 2017, Own image, untitled, [Retrieved at: 12 September] Levi’s Vintage Clothing Instagram, 2017, Instagram Feed From: https://www.instagram.com/levis.vintage.clothing/ [Retrieved at: 17 September] MUD Jeans Text MUD Jeans, 2017, Sustainable Clothing & Circular Design From: http://www.mudjeans.eu/our-partners/ [Accessed September 14, 2017] MUD JEANS, 2017, About Mud Jeans From: http://www.mudjeans.eu/about-mud-jeans/ [Accessed September 14, 2017] MUD JEANS , Sustainability | MUD Jeans | Quality Jeans, Vegan & Recyclable From: http://www.mudjeans.eu/about-mud-jeans/sustainability/ [Accessed September 14, 2017] MUD JEANS, Lease A Jeans | MUD Jeans | From: http://www.mudjeans.eu/lease-a-jeans/ [Accessed September 14, 2017] Spreaker, 2017, Bert van Son CEO MUD JEANS From: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmfYehScgzg [Accessed September 14, 2017] Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Pioneering a lease model for organic cotton jeans From: https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/case-studies/pioneering-a-lease-model-for-organic-cot-ton-jeans [Accessed September 14, 2017] Wanshel, E., 2016, Why This Company Wants You To Fall In Love With People’s Old Jeans, The Huffington Post From: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/ entry/mud-jeans-rent-pants_us_57d08ae8e4b06a74c9f27b8a [Accessed September 14, 2017] Mud Jeans, Danique, 2017, Private Email [Accessed September 8, 2017] Van Son, B., 2016, MUD JEANS From: http://www.mudjeans.eu/project/sustainablebrands-jun-2016/ [Accessed September 14, 2017] MUD JEANS , 2016. MUD JEANS x RePack From: http://www.mudjeans.eu/mud-jeans-repack/ [Accessed September 14, 2017] MUD Jeans (@mudjeans), Instagram From: https://www.instagram.com/mudjeans/?hl=cs [Accessed September 14, 2017] LeaseAJeans, 2016, The Recycle Tour, YouTube From: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZjswM0Qiq8 [Accessed September 14, 2017] Visual Anon, 2016, Mud Jeans verwerkt eerste 3000 Lease Jeans tot nieuwe broeken. Awearness Fashion. Available at: http://www.awearness-fashion.nl/ mud-jeans-verwerkt-eerste-3000-lease-jeans-tot-nieuwe-broeken/ [Accessed September 16, 2017] Mud jeans, 2016, Logo Available at: https://yt3.ggpht.com/-OmBwaxpVdZw/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAAAAA/zIvz0i6w-iY/ s900-c-k-no-mo-rj-c0xffffff/photo.jpg [Accessed September 16, 2017] Geiten Wollen Winkel, 2017, Mud jeans product Available at: https://www.geitenwollenwinkel.nl/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/mud-jeans-hazenskinny-mid-den-blauw-1-geitenwollenwinkel-amsterdam.jpg [Accessed September 16, 2017] Mud jeans, 2016, Campaign Available at: https://blog.houseofeinstein.nl/app/uploads/2016/01/mud-jeansv2.png [Accessed September 16, 2017] Mud jeans, 2017, Recycle Available at: http://www.damnmagazine.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/IMG_8502-copy.jpg [Accessed September 16, 2017] Mud jeans, 2017, Mud jeans x RePack Available at: https://www.circulareconomyclub.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/repack-mudjeans.jpg [Accessed September 16, 2017]

REFERENCES Instagram Mud jeans, 2016, Target group Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BG_fRCLvZX2/?taken-by=mudjeans [Accessed September 16, 2017] Instagram Mud jeans, 2015, Target group Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/-HJDs8PZco/?taken-by=mudjeans [Accessed September 16, 2017] Nudie Jeans Text Borromeo, L., 2014, A Swedish denim label wants to change the way we wear our jeans From: https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/ nudie-swedish-denim-label-jeans [retrieved 09 September 2017]. Bjork, J., 2013, Going 100% organic, Nudie Jeans inspires change in the denim industry From: http://www.goodlifer.com/2013/01/going-100-organicnudie-jeans-inspires-change-in-the-denim-industry/ [retrieved 08 September 2017]. Chua, J.M., 2015, Nudie Jeans opens NYC store complete with repair station From: www.ecouterre.com/nudie-jeans-opens-nyc-store-complete-withrepair-station/ [retrieved 12 September 2017]. Fashion Shift Now, 2015, Ciao Palle! From: https://www.fashionshiftnow.org/single-post/2015/02/24/CIAO-PALLE-The-man-behind-Nudie-Jeans-orhow-destiny-helped-us-meet-a-great-guy [retrieved 06 September 2017]. Dustin, J., 2014, Nudie Jeans Grim Tim - 2 Years Wear Review From: https://denimology.com/2014/01/nudie-jeans-grim-tim-review [retrieved 08 September 2017]. Fair Wear Foundation, 2016, Nudie Jeans Social Report 2016 From: https://www.fairwear.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Nudie-Jeans-social-report-2016.pdf [retrieved 08 September 2017]. Fished, A., 2015 “Observer Ethical Awards W2015 Winners”. From: https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2015/jul/02/the-observer-ethical-awards-2015-winners [retrieved 09 September 2017]. Henderson, P., 2012, Need to know: Nudie From: https://www.mrporter.com/journal/journal_issue48/5#1 [retrieved 06 September 2017]. Hotchkiss, S., 2011, Going Khak and Never Going Back From: https://www.gq.com/story/going-khak-and-never-going-back-interview-with-nudiejeans-palle-stenberg [retrieved 11 September 2017]. Munnichs, W., 2014, Nudie Jeans: grim tim dry selvage, From: www.long-john.nl/nudie-jeans-grim-tim-dry-selvage/ [retrieved 10 September 2017]. Rank a Brand, 2016, Hoe duurzaam is Nudie Jeans? From: www.rankabrand.nl/duurzame-jeans-spijkerbroek/nudie+jeans [retrieved 06 September 2017]. Stewart, L., 2015, Nudie Jeans is changing the culture of denim ownership www.ecouterre.com/nudie-jeans-is-changing-the-culture-of-denim-ownership/ [retrieved 08 September 2017]. Trotman, S., 2015, Nudie Jeans helping us understand considerate consumption https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/nudie-jeans-helping-us-understand-considerate-consumption/ [retrieved 06 September 2017]. Vine, R., 2014, Why you should never, ever wash your jeans From: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2014/oct/24/why-you-should-never-everwash-your-jeans-unless-you-really-really-have-to [retrieved 06 September 2017]. Wang, L., 2016, Premium Denim’s Tentative Comeback From: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/premium-denims-tentative-comeback [retrieved 09 September 2017]. PME Jeans Text Anon, Linked In. Available at: https://www.linkedin.com/company/just-brands?trk=parent_company_logo [Accessed September 17, 2017]. PMELegend, Commander Online Series - PME Legend. Vimeo. Available at: https://vimeo.com/channels/pmelegend [Accessed September 16, 2017]. PMELEGENDTV, 2014. Commander pt III online series - Put trust in your gear - PME Legend. YouTube. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=3TSKGoIX6qo [Accessed September 16, 2017]. Anon, Corporate Responsibility. Just Brands. Available at: https://about.justbrands.eu/EN/corporate-responsibility [Accessed September 17, 2017]. Anon, Facebook. Facebook. Available at: https://www.facebook.com/PMELegend/ [Accessed September 16, 2017]. Anon, Highstreet – Just Brands. Mobile retail platform - Highstreet. Available at: https://www.highstreetapp.com/landing-page/justbrands [Accessed September 16, 2017]. Anon, How sustainable is PME Legend ? PME Legend and sustainability: D-label | Buy sustainable brands. Available at: https://rankabrand.org/sustainable-denimjeans/PME Legend [Accessed September 17, 2017]. Anon, HOW TO USE 2017 PANTONE COLOR TRENDS IN DESIGN. NY NOW. Available at: https://www.nynow.com/industry-insights/2017- pantone-color-trends/[Accessed September 17, 2017]. Anon, Instagram post by Kevin • Oct 30, 2016 at 3:54pm UTC. Instagram. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BMMVzEVjVsY/?tagged=pmelegends [Accessed September 17, 2017]. Anon, Just Brands Breda. Just Brands. Available at: https://www.justbrands.nl/media/storelocator/images//b/r/breda-7669.jpg [Accessed September 17, 2017]. Anon, OFFICIAL WEBSHOP. PME LEGEND. Available at: https://www.pme-legend.com/ [Accessed September 16, 2017]. PMELEGENDTV, 2015. PME Legend Commander Online Series- Episode 6 The Flight of the Phoenix. YouTube. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=yJunHo_F2q4 [Accessed September 16, 2017]. Anon, PME Legend Official (@pmelegend) • Instagram photos and videos. Instagram. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/pmelegend/ [Accessed September 17, 2017]. Anon, PME Legend PTR120 NIGHTFLIGHT bog. Expresswear merkkleding. Available at: https://www.expresswear.nl/pme-legend- ptr120nightflight-slim- fit-bog- 210110042 [Accessed September 17, 2017]. PMELEGENDTV, 2016. PME Legend Skymaster - Commercial Germany. YouTube. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ttM9tls2RI [Ac-

100

cessed September 16, 2017]. 2010Sans, 2010. PME legend spring summer 2010. YouTube. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JQJ5scMZ7M [Accessed September 16, 2017]. Anon, PME Legend stärkt deutsches Sales Team. Fashionunited. Available at: https://fashionunited.de/v1/columns/pme-legend- staerkt-deutsches-salesteam/2013021512485 [Accessed September 16, 2017]. Anon, Stories: PME Legend extends cinema advertising. sportswear-international.com. Available at: http://www.sportswear-international.com/news/ stories/PME-Legend- extends-cinema-advertising-7460 [Accessed September 17, 2017]. Rag & Bone Text C., Beauchamp, 2017, My Rag & Bone Obsessions From: https://fashionandfrills.com/rag-and-bone-jeans/ [retrieved 11th September 2017] J., Okwodu, 2017, The Story behind Rag & Bone’s Rule-Breaking Anniversary Cast From: https://www.vogue.com/article/rag-and-bone-15-anniversarymodel-cast-new-york-fashion-week-fall-2017-ready-to-wear [retrieved 10th september 2017] Rag & Bone From: https://www.rag-bone.com/about-us.html [Retrieved 8th September 2017] rag & bone quality guaranteed ,2017, rag & bone films, United States From: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g40bS5EMAf4 rag & bone founders reflect on their company, 2013, Associated Press From: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwMTozn97tU Rag & Bone Blog, 2016, Rag & Bone opens Men’s Store in Tribeca From: https://www.rag-bone.com/blog/tribeca-mens.html [retrieved 10th September 2017] S., Aldenton, 2015, Camille Roew gets real in Rag & Bone’s D.I.Y. campaign From: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/camille-rowe-gets-real-in-rag-bone/# [retrieved 11th September 2017] Vogue Voices: Marcus Wainwright & David Neville at Rag & Bone, 2013, Vogue From: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pki4hxP_rD8 V., Friedman, 2016, In the studio with Rag & Bone From: https://www.nytimes.com/2016/02/15/fashion/new-york-fashion-week-rag-bone.html [retrieved 10th September 2017] V., Hsieh, 2017, rag & bone shoots Lottie Moss & Selah Marley in new campaign From: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/36721/1/ragbone-lottie-moss-selah-marley-campaign-mark-frank-lebon-glen-luchford WGSN insider, 2014, Rag & Bone taps into “the cult“ From: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/rag-bone-taps-into-the-cult/ [retrieved 11th September 2017] Visual E. Balatresi, 2017, The Big Fratello, [image] From: https://www.instagram.com/p/BZA6iYOBJ1P/?taken-by=enricobalatresi [retrieved 14th September 2017] Logo Rag&Bone, [image] From: https://www.pinterest.at/pin/451908143834319647/?lp=true [retrieved 12th September 2017] Luchford, G., 2017, Straight, [image] From: http://www.rag-bone.com/womens/jeans/straight-W2512T690BEL.html?cgid=women-jeans&categoryfrom=women#start=4&gid=1&pid=2 [retrieved 12 September 2017] Luchford, G., 2015, Campaign image, [image] From: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/camille-rowe-gets-real-in-rag-bone/# [retrieved 13th September 2017]Luchford, G., 2017, Lea Seydoux, [image] From: https://www.rag-bone.com/campaigns/lea-seydoux-fw13/ [retrieved 13th September 2017] Miller-Aichholz, L., 2017, Closeup denim, Unpublished photograph 2017, Screenshot, [image] From: https://www.instagram.com/ragandbone/ [retrieved 14th September 2017] Marfil, L., 2016, Rag & Bone interior, [image] From: https://pmcwwd.files.wordpress.com/2016/12/rag-and-bone-store-east-spitalfields-market-120116-011.jpg [retrieved 12th September 2017] Retail Design Blog, 2013, Rag & Bone Interior [image] From: http://retaildesignblog.net/2013/10/09/rag-bone-general-store-new-york/ [retrieved 15th September 2017] Unknown, 2017, Denim [Image/Screenshot] From: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=6&v=k0G3UpXwha8 [retrieved 14th September 2017] Vingino Text Galbiati, L., 2017, Vingino Europe store opening. From: http://uk.fashionnetwork.com/news/Vingino-plans-new-store-openings-in-Europe-US-debutthis-season,785208.html [retrieved 11 September 2017] Vingino, LinkedIn from: https://www.linkedin.com/company/vingino [retrieved 12 September 2017] Vingino, Corporate and Social responsibility. From: https://www.vingino.com/en/corporate-social-responsibility [retrieved 12 September 2017] Unknown, 2013, Alles over kledingmerk Vingino. From: http://www.mamaplaats.nl/alles-over-vingino/ [retrieved 11 September 2017] Luna Journal, 2016, Interview with Vingino’s CEO. From: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QijVdy_xMXU [retrieved 12 September 2017] Luna Journal, 2017, Interview with Vingino’s CEO and creative director. From: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCQ6aPpe2j4 [retrieved 10 September 2017] Rank a brand, from: https://rankabrand.org/sustainable-denim-jeans/Vingino [retrieved 12 September 2017] Vingino, About from: https://www.vingino.com/en/vingino-story [retrieved 12 September 2017] Vingino, Love for denim from: https://www.vingino.com/en/we-love-denim [retrieved 12 September 2017] Cornelis Schuytstraat, Vingino from: https://www.cornelisschuytstraat.com/en-vingino/ [retrieved 12 September 2017] Interview: Bakker, S., 2017, Vingino employee interview, 11/09/2017 Visual Care.com, 2014, Health benefits of playing outside [image]. From: https://www.care.com/c/stories/4178/5-health-benefits-of-playing-outside/en-gb/ [retrieved 15 September 2017] Kenter, M., 2015, De eerste Vingino brandstore is geopend [image]. From: http://mamablogger.nl/even-tussendoor-de-eerste-vingino-brandstore-isgeopend/ [retrieved 15 September 2017] Vingino, 2017, Vingino Fall/Winter campaign 2017 [image]. From: https://www.vingino.com/nl/kids.html [retrieved 15 September 2017]

101

REFERENCES Pinterest, 2016, Mum and son [image] From: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/292171094559539672/ [retrieved on 19 September 2017] Scout the City, 2016, Stylish mom and kid [image] From: http://mini-mode.com/scoutthecity/ [retrieved on 19 September 2017] RoroSpots, 2016, Vingino store Amsterdam [image] From: http://rorospots.nl/spots/vingino-store/ [retrieved on 19 September 2017] Own Image, 2017, Vingino details [image] [retrieved on 8 September 2017] Schattigebabykleertjes, 2016, Vingino jeans [image] From: https://www.schattigebabykleertjes.nl/vingino-jog-jeans-copina.html [retrieved on 19 September 2017] Wrangler Text Agarwal, S., 2015, Visual History of Wrangler From: https://www.denimsandjeans.com/news/a-visual-history-of-wrangler/14408 [last accessed: 12/07/17] Baptist World Aid, 2017 Ethical Fashion Report, 2017 downloaded from: https://baptistworldaid.org.au/resources/2017-ethical-fashion-report/ [last accessed: 12/07/17] Gilcrease, G., 2017, Wrangler US vs EU marketing From: http://adgradlife.com/post/160011715963/how-they-wrangle-customers-an-oped [last accessed: 12/07/17] McKinnon, S., 2010, Open Letter Response Wrangler From: https://www.denimhunt.com/2010/06/23/the-creative-director-of-wrangler-europe-responds-to-our-open-letter/ [last accessed: 12/07/17] Murtaugh, T., 2017, History of Wrangler From: http://www.countryliving.com/shopping/news/a43336/the-history-of-wrangler/ [last accessed: 12/07/17] Rogers, C., 2016, Wrangler on getting the best from bespoke From: https://www.drapersonline.com/business-operations/drapers-denim-report-wrangler-on-getting-the-best-from-bespoke/7005574.article [last accessed: 12/07/17] Sportswear International, 2015 From: http://www.sportswear-international.com/galleries/stores/Wrangler-flagship-store-in-Berlin-930#p4 [last accessed: 12/07/17] Sportswear International, 2017, Betting on beauty From: http://www.sportswear-international.com/news/portrait/Interview-Wrangler-president-Our-target-is-to-succeed-in-transferring-femininity-in-every-single-product-13230 [last accessed: 14/09/17] Trotman, S., 2011, The 7 ‚icons‘ of Wrangler denim From: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/the-7-“icons”-of-wrangler-denim/ [last accessed: 12/07/17] Unknown, W., 2017, Wrangler Jeans Celebrates 70th Years Anniversary From: http://long-john.nl/wrangler-jeans-70-years-anniversary/ [last accessed: 12/07/17] VFC, Wrangler brand From: http://www.vfc.com/brands/jeanswear/wrangler [last accessed: 12/07/17] Wrangler, From: https://www.wrangler.com/about/our-company.html [last accessed: 12/07/17] Wrangler, From: https://www.wrangler.com/about/history.html [last accessed: 12/07/17] Wrangler, From: https://www.wrangler.com/about/news.html [last accessed: 12/07/17] Wrangler, From: http://www.wrangler.co.uk/uk-en/company/about-us/ [last accessed: 12/07/17] Wrangler Instagram From: https://www.instagram.com/wrangler_europe/ [last accessed: 12/07/17] Visual Wrangler, Available at: https://www.wrangler.com [last accessed: 12/07/17] Heath, A., 2017, Instagram Available at: www.instagram.com/anita_heath [last accessed: 12/07/17] Lorna, M., 2015 Available at: https://thejeansblog.com/denim-giveaways/win-a-pair-of-wrangler-cool-vantage-jeans/ [last accessed: 12/07/17] Sportswear International, 2015 Available at: http://www.sportswear-international.com/galleries/stores/Wrangler-flagship-store-in-Berlin-930#p4 [last accessed: 12/07/17] Uxus, 2016 Available at: http://retaildesignblog.net/2016/11/07/wrangler-store-by-uxus-bangkok-thailand-2/ [last accessed: 12/07/17] Wrangler, 2017 Available at: http://www.wrangler.co.uk/uk-en/bodybespoke?lang=gb-en [last accessed: 12/07/17] Wrangler, 2017 Available at: http://www.wrangler.co.uk/uk-en/ [last accessed: 12/07/17] Conclusion Text Writer Unknown (2016) The Importance of a physical presence for online brands. BWP GROUP. [online] Available at: https://bwpgroup.com/blog/theimportance-of-a-physical-presence-for-online-brands [Accessed 19 September 2017] Sherman, L. (2013) Are brands overusing the word heritage? Fashionista. [online] Available at: https://fashionista.com/2013/01/are-brands-overusingthe-word-heritage [Accessed 19 September 2017] Samuel, J. The Power of being meaningful, different and salient. Milward Brown. [online] Available at: https://www.millwardbrown.com/Insights/ Point-of-View/Power_of_Being_Meaningful/default.aspx [Accessed 19 September 2017] Shearman, S. Rethinking retail: why brands are embracing the rise of the concept store. The Guardian. [online] Available at: https://www.theguardian. com/media-network/media-network-blog/2014/jul/09/retail-brands-concept-store-shopping [Accessed 19 September 2017] Morley, C. (2017) How middle-market brands sustain growth. Forbes. [online] Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/chrismorley/2017/03/30/ how-middle-market-brands-sustain-growth/#75fb530151c2 [Accessed 19 September 2017] Trotter, C. (2016) Why physical retail matters more than ever. Retail Next. [online] Available at: https://retailnext.net/en/blog/why-physical-retail-matters-more-than-ever/ [Accessed 19 september 2017]

102