Classical Pairings

THE RATHSKELLER RESTAURANT

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by Nicholas Johnson, Ph.D.

As the oldest restaurant in Indianapolis, there may not be a more beloved local institution than The Rathskeller Restaurant. Founded by German immigrants, the restaurant has featured Bavarian cuisine, a world-class Biergarten, and live music since 1894. They are open for business and takeout during the COVID-19 pandemic. If your European trips were cancelled this summer, head over for an authentic taste of the old country. You’ll feel like you’re feasting in the alps after a day of hiking. For a truly Germanic experience, listen to these orchestral works while dining on one of these classic dishes.

FOOD:

German Bratwurst

THE MUSIC:

Fanny Hensel (née Mendelssohn), Overture in C Major

Whenever I visit Munich, I always have at least one weisswurst (white sausage). The Rathskeller’s bratwurst is spot on. They steam and then grill the bratwurst before putting it on a pretzel roll and topping it with sauerkraut. To my tastes, German cooking always seems to abide by the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” maxim. This brat is smoky, salty and perfect in texture. The real star of the show may be the mustard. It has a horseradish kick that cuts through the sauerkraut properly, making way for the richness of the brat.

Fanny Hensel wrote few works for the stage due to social conventions of the time. This overture provides a glimpse of the brilliant orchestral music she could have written if society allowed. The gentle opening, full of constrained energy, reminds me of piling on the sauerkraut and mustard, anticipating a moment of pure joy while inhaling the aroma. Once the main theme enters, there are eight minutes of early Romantic German bliss. Colorful winds imitate the sauerkraut, luscious strings mimic the bratwurst and brass accentuates the pretzel roll.

THE FOOD:

Schnitzel (Jägerart)

THE MUSIC:

Ludwig van Beethoven, Symphony No. 3

In Germany and Austria, schnitzel is often made of veal. The Rathskeller uses pork loin, and I prefer their substitution. It’s smashed and pan-fried with breading, served with potato salad and lemon. Simplicity is the magic of Germanic food.

I went for the Jägerart, or “hunter style,” served with a fantastic mushroom gravy. There is just a bit of spice, adding richness and complexity. I have ordered schnitzel many times, always after considering something more complicated. A schnitzel has never let me down.

The hunting reference in this dish brings Beethoven’s Symphony No. 3 (Eroica) to mind. Beethoven frequently mimics hunting horns, especially in the triumphant first movement. This work is universally loved, but at the premiere, many considered it too complicated and long. Like the Rathskeller’s Jägerart Schnitzel, the Eroica’s extra layer of richness makes for an even more divine experience. ■