classic cottages | Our Ten Favourite Benches
The specialists for coastal and country cottages of distinction throughout the West Country Office Address Leslie House, Lady Street, Helston, Cornwall TR13 8NA Telephone 01326 555 555 Facsimile 01326 555 544 Email enquiries@classic.co.uk www.classic.co.uk www.classicguide.co.uk Office Hours Monday to Friday 9.00am – 8.00pm Saturday 9.30am – 5.00pm Sunday 11.00am – 4.00pm (Closed Bank Holidays, Christmas Eve, New Year’s Day and Easter)
Oh, for a seat. Whether it’s to tie a bootlace, feed a baby or swig a hipflask, there are some seats that do it and some that don’t. For the past few years, we’ve scoured the West Country for the most lauded and unsung benches, each one with its own hypnotic spell. A great bench can make knees wilt, like a bolt of lightning to the rhythm of walking. Or, it might just be the destination itself, to stare out at the ever-lovely sea that surrounds us on three sides. Benches are there to be sat on, slept on, ate on, drunk on, kissed on and even stood on to get a signal for your mobile (just wipe those boots first please). They make reading and drawing more absorbing exercises. They can be cut into a rock-face or conjured out of a fallen tree. Some brag a thousand years of bottom-resting service, while others only last a few hours on a low tide beach. In truth, the list changes with the seasons, so we’ve made some of them less literal and more liberal, just so you get the gist to find and name your own favourite bench. Grab a comfy seat and kick back – it’s time to put your feet up. *
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1 PUSLINCH BRIDGE, Yealmpton, south Devon page 2 2 HAWKER’S HUT, Morwenstow, north Cornwall page 4 3 COT VALLEY COUCH, far west Cornwall page 6 4 HEXWORTHY LOG, Two Bridges, Dartmoor page 7 5 BASS POINT LOOKOUT MARKER, the Lizard, south west Cornwall page 8 6 STAIRWAYS TO HEAVEN, Northcott Steps, north Cornwall page 9 7 FERRIES AND OTHER MOVING BENCHES page 12 8 H-BENCH, Golden Cap, Dorset page 15 9 TARKA TRAIL, Okehampton to Barnstaple, north Devon page 16 10 THE FLOTSAM THRONE page 18
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1 PUSLINCH BRIDGE Yealmpton, south Devon At the head of the River Yealm, queues of butterflies and a commonwealth of wildflowers mob the bench near Puslinch Bridge. It’s a cacophony of very nice noise as Cirl Buntings hunt down chirruping grasshoppers. You might feel like a trespasser. Don’t. Spread out a blanket on the bank, dunk your toes in the water and let nature irrigate your weary soul. This is an area of outstanding natural magic. Map: OS Explorer OL20. Pub: How could you when picnics don’t come better than this? Tip: Come in spring when the Yellow Flag Iris is in full bloom.
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2 HAWKER’S HUT Morwenstow, north Cornwall A thousand couples have cut their initials into this tiny shack that looks like it was thrown at the cliff by a Celtic god. On this given day, Brian, Betty and Blue obliged. The hut, fashioned from driftwood by Parson Hawker, a poetcome-priest, is now under National Trust care. On a good day you can see past Tintagel to Pentire and with a pair of binoculars, the sheep on Lundy Island. Map: OS Explorer 126. Pub: www.bushinn-morwenstow.co.uk. Tip: Toast your loved one with a flask of stewed instant coffee.
3 COT VALLEY COUCH Far west Cornwall Naturally upholstered, this throne celebrates its 607th or thereabouts birthday this year. It comes and goes with the thrift, and is actually easy to miss such is the jaw-drop scenery that cascades down from its ankles into the sea at Nanven where the exposed rock resembles the moon. From St Just, take Bosorne Road opposite the school and weave down to the sea, park up and amble left up the coast path for a quarter of a mile-ish. Map: OS Explorer 102. Pub: The Star Inn, St Just. Tip: At low tide, climb down the steps by the mine shaft to the moonscape on the beach and find a jelly mould to fit your back.
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4 HEXWORTHY LOG Two Bridges, Dartmoor Nickname: The Wishbone Job: Dartmoor’s Water Diviner Experience: Pre-empts the marriage of the West and East Dart rivers Natural Powers: Can smooth over any tiff or huff in one sitting Date built: Unknown (ring growth guess – 15 years) Builder: One stormy night Map: OS Explorer OL28. Pub: www.twobridges.co.uk (the Jail Ale is sumptuous). Tip: Kiss and make up here – long-term happiness guaranteed. www.classic.co.uk and www.classicguide.co.uk
5 BASS POINT LOOKOUT MARKER The Lizard, south west Cornwall At seven feet high, this lofty chaise longue needs a leg up, or an impromptu ladder. Yet even sitting on the turf at the base you get a sense of what it’s like to be a gull. With its sister wall at nearby Church Cove, these red beacons form a triangle with a lethal reef to alert fishermen. The lookout is manned by National Coastwatch Institution volunteers, at a cost of £3,000 a year. So tip up and tip, please. Map: OS Explorer 103 and www.nci-basspoint.co.uk. Grub: The Lizard Pasty Shop (saffron yellow, you can’t miss it). Tip: Arrive at sunrise and feel the first belt of heat bounce off the sea and onto the wall.
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6 STAIRWAYS TO HEAVEN (model shown overleaf ) Northcott Steps, north Cornwall The South West Coast Path is lore unto itself. It is laden with sacred seats and steps, at least one for every star above you. But rather than get too otherworldly, here’s some down-to-earth info to help you find the bench of your dreams. The Spiritual Stats Miles covered: 630 Height climbed: 114,931 feet, or four times Mount Everest High point: Hangman Point, north Devon 1,043 feet – sit well back Steps to sit on: 26,719-ish Stiles to kiss at: 921 – bring some lip balm Signs to stop you getting lost: 2,473 if you can find them Book: The South West Coast Path by Paddy Dillon – ISBN 1852843799. Pub: Defy last orders – take a packed lunch. Tip: Don’t conquer the lot. Find a step that is forever England and sit on it. www.classic.co.uk and www.classicguide.co.uk
7 FERRIES AND OTHER MOVING BENCHES (previous spread) Helford River and (below) Dartmouth Even on an evil day, a seat on a boat is a joy. There’s something about the bobbing up and down as you scuttle along on the water that brings the bench to life. Here’s our crash-course in boat-benches. 1. Water taxis are open-air baths. Sit at the back, face the way you’re going and bear the full brunt of the spray. It’s great. 2. Beware the bloody bench. A day out sitting in a boat feathering for mackerel off Seaton or elsewhere makes you glad to be alive. Just wear old kit. The gizzards and guts make a right old mess. 3. Most rivers down here are tidal. Ferrymen can knock off early if the ebb and flow conspires against them. Get a tide timetable (www.quicktide.co.uk). Map: Chart 2400.4: River Dart (Imray, Laurie, Norie & Wilson Ltd – ISBN 0852886438). Pub: Tapas at Browns Hotel, Victoria Road, Dartmouth. Tip: Take the Dartmouth ferry to Kingswear and sample its starboard and portside curved benches. For cruises, trips and charters in and around Dartmouth, jump on-line and moor up at www.riverlink.co.uk.
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8 H-BENCH Golden Cap, Dorset Sedately perched at 191 metres on the highest sea cliff along the south coast, this delightful arrangement feels like the remnants of a medieval catapult. Mary loves this spot, as do her dogs. She’s less fond of the 40 minute slog to get up there, although the view compensates. On a clear day, you can see France. With the right wind, you can just about smell it too. Map: OS Landranger 193. Pub: www.theanchorinn.co.uk. Tip: Find an ammonite fossil on Seatown beach (they’re plentiful), take it to the top and make a wish.
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9 TARKA TRAIL Okehampton to Barnstaple, north Devon Immortalised by Williamson’s Tarka the Otter, this 35 mile trail runs along a disused railway line from Okehampton to Barnstaple. Along the way Sustrans has ingeniously and poetically commissioned artists to create a series of benches. They all function as a resting place, waymarker or shelter. Some are beautiful, some are funny, some totally bizarre. Together they form an open-air sculpture gallery that you can digest at your leisure on a bike. Map: NCN Route 3. Pub: Lots. And you’re on a bike so take your pick. Tip: Take a puncture repair kit. No bike shops en route.
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10 THE FLOTSAM THRONE At a cove, wood or moor near you Build your own bench in three easy steps. 1. Find a place you’d like to sit and rule. Ensure there are plenty of stray materials (eg: driftwood, granite slabs, rope) or bring your own. 2. Wedge/lash/lean the wood/stone/rope together with a sturdy base for your backside. 3. Pluck straws for King and Queen and whistle a rhyme until wind or waves breach the bow. Guide: Any old woodwork manual. Pub: Bring something bubbly, and toast your creation before it topples. Tip: Photograph each stage of the build (including all bodges) as you may want to replicate the design another day, another place.
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The Subs Bench Yes, we cracked. Ten benches, however magnificent, aren’t quite enough. So, to prevent bench war breaking out, here is the best of the rest because we fell bum-over-heels for them.
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(This page clockwise from top) Birdseed Bench, Tarka Trail, north Devon. Boscastle Seat, north Cornwall. Heavy (Cornish: Hevva) cake on granite slab. Priest’s Cove, Cape Cornwall. Gwennap Pit, Redruth, Cornwall. Marconi’s Beam, Poldhu Point, Mullion, Cornwall. (Opposite page from left to right) Lover’s Stump, Helford, Cornwall. Nettle Bench, Dartmoor. (Front cover) Cadgwith Cove, south west Cornwall. (Back cover) Watersmeet, Exmoor.
Thanks to Mother Nature and all those who had a hand in making these wonderful benches. Photography: Annabel Elston Words: Peter Kirby Design: Kate Tregoning Printing: Rowe the Printers, Cornwall Copyright © 2008 Classic Cottages www.classic.co.uk and www.classicguide.co.uk
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Classic Cottages Leslie House, Lady Street, Helston, Cornwall TR13 8NA | Telephone 01326 555 555 | Email enquiries@classic.co.uk | www.classic.co.uk and www.classicguide.co.uk