Riley’s Rambles: Todmorden

This issue’s ramble takes us to what once was the borderland between Lancashire and Yorkshire. Historically, the River Calder, which runs through the town, marked where the two counties met, with half the town in the red rose county and half in the white. Many years ago, local government reorganisation changed all that and now the whole town is in West Yorkshire. In its heyday, Todmorden was an important centre for woollen mills and then cotton, but over the years, these industries declined, and many of the mills and their chimneys are gone or converted, such that it is now considered a commuter town. There are many interesting walks in the area, with both the Pennine Way and Calderdale Way passing close to the town, but we are here for the beer, and there are some excellent reasons for having a day out going round the pubs of the town. I will tell you how to get here by train at the end of the article, but the trail starts at the railway station.

Coming out of the station, turn left and you will see the WHITE HART, the Wetherspoons pub, which has been refurbished to a high standard with a downstairs bar with the full range of beers and a smaller upstairs bar with a more restricted range. Not as big as some Wetherspoons, it is comfortable and popular. There are four regular cask ales in Moorhouses Pendle Witch, Phoenix Wobbly Bob, and stalwarts Abbot Ale and Ruddles, plus up to six (at least four) changing guest real ales also on sale. I am glad to say that on our visit they were not all high gravity guests. It is open 8am till at least midnight.

On exit, go down twenty yards and turn left to reach a pub called the POLISHED KNOB. It is more attractive than it sounds, being a friendly pub that has seen a refurbishment that includes leather car seats, believed to have been designed for the original Mini, around tables. Live music is a popular feature here at weekends after 9pm. The pub usually has four changing cask ales. Unfortunately, it presently seems to be closed from Tuesday to Thursday, only opening at 4pm on Friday until 1am, then open Sat, Sun Mon at noon till 10pm (1am Sat). You will have noticed on your left on the way to the previous pub, a rare thing: a Tourist Information Office, full of interesting leaflets and gifts to buy as souvenirs, all about the town and district. It might strike you that a small town like Todmorden can have such a thing, but a city such as Preston cannot.

On the other side of the road is the public market dating from 1879 with its 42 indoor stalls and the adjacent outdoor market. Included in the indoor market is a compact bar called the MARKET TAVERN, which opened in 2019. It has high stools at the bar and seating in adjacent aisles and in fine weather there is some outside seating on the Bramsche Square side of the building, where you will also find some public toilets. Three cask beers are available consisting of Reedley Hallows Old Laund Bitter and

Pendleside plus a changing guest, which is often a rare beer style or a dark beer. The bar is not open on Tuesdays, but is open other days from 11 until 5, (10–4 on Sundays). It may stay open later if there is an event on in the market, but it is closed on Bank Holidays except Good Fridays. On coming out of the market, you have a choice of turning left or right.

If you turn right and go under the railway arches and up the road a short distance you will come to the ALEHOUSE, a welcoming micropub set back from the road. It consists of a single room with the bar to the rear and several seat options. A recent winner of pub of the season for Halifax and Calderdale, it has five real ales which on our visit ranged from Prospect Nutty Slack Mild at 3.9%, through Eagle Crag Pale Eagle at 4%, up to a Tomos A Lilford beer at 4.4%. There is generally one dark beer among the guests.

The pub is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, opening at 2pm on Wed and Thurs and noon other days. It closes at 8 Weds, 9 Thurs/Sun and 10pm Fri/Sat. To return to the centre turn left on exit to pick up the trail.

If you had turned left in front of the outside stalls on leaving the market hall you would go along Brook Street to see on your right our next pub which is actually called THE PUB. Todmorden’s first micropub, it opened in 2017 in a former cafe. Small, with a simple layout with room for about 20 downstairs and 12 up the flight of steep stone steps, it makes for a friendly, intimate atmosphere to enhance the superb choice of six constantly changing guest beers. These ranged from Brew York’s Calmer Chameleon at 3.7% to Hophurst’s Porteresque at 5.5%. There is usually a dark beer on sale. Over 30 distilled gins are also stocked. The Pub has been highly commended in the pub of the year competition. It opens at noon all days and closes at 9 pm except Thurs when it is 10pm and Fri/Sat when it is 11pm.

To reach our next venue, turn right and right again to reach Rochdale Road where you turn left to see the former bank, now HONEST JOHN on your right. Spacious with two separate rooms, its former use is evident with some of the features such as the heavy safe doors and ornate roof. It is really a food venue, but the casual drinker is welcome. Light bites are available, such as toasties plus more substantial dishes. It has two regular beers in Bradfield Farmers Blonde and local brewers Eagles Crag with their Eagles Feather at 3.7%. It is open 10am all days and closes at 9pm except for Friday and Saturday when doors close at 10pm. Opposite is the ROYAL GEORGE, which only had one cask beer on when we went, namely Bowland Hen Harrier. It is closed Mon/Tues, opens at 3pm Wed- Fri and noon Sat/Sun, closing at 11pm except Fri/Sat when it is midnight. It is a venue for regular live music.

Walking further down the main road and over the Rochdale canal we find our last pub, the GOLDEN LION (unless you haven’t been to the Alehouse yet). Grade II listed, dating from the 18th century and tastefully refurbished, it reopened in 2014. Inside it is divided into various zones including sports and quieter snug areas and a raised dining section to the rear, which also leads to an outside patio. The main bar area has stone flooring and an open fire. Six changing real ales are available and recently they ranged from Ilkley Mary Jane at 3.5% up to Eagle’s Crag Golden Eagle at 5%. Opening times are 3–11 Mon–Thurs, and Fri/Sat noon–1am, Sun noon–11pm with food including Thai orientated meals available Mon–Thur 3pm–9pm and Fri–Sun 1pm–9pm. It is but a short walk back to the centre and the railway station for your journey home.

Todmorden is easily reached from Preston railway station, but it does involve changing trains at Blackburn, as there is not a direct train. The good news is that you do not have to wait a long time for the connection. Typical timings are to catch the 10.46 York train, alighting at Blackburn at 11.02. You then catch the 11.19 train to Kirby and it gets you to Todmorden at 11.54. Return you could catch the 17.36 train back to Blackburn for 18.13, then catching the 18.22 train to Preston, arriving at 18.40. An adult return ticket costs £16.99 each, but if you are 55 or over you can get an Explorer 55 rover ticket for £15.90 saving you a bit of money. If you have a railcard, you get a third off these prices. If two people are travelling together, you can get a duo ticket from Preston to Blackburn for £9.30 and also a duo ticket from Blackburn to Todmorden for £15.90, totalling £25.20 for both of you in total, (equivalent to £12.60 each) as long as you travel together, saving you a considerable amount. You can check all details on the National Rail enquires website. PAUL RILEY