Julefrokost The Christmas Lunch 15 - 21 October 2010
Julefrokost: The Christmas Lunch - 15 - 21 October 2010
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Julefrokost: The Christmas Lunch - 15 - 21 October 2010
the julefrokost: a national institution The meal every Dane would request on Death Row By Ben Hamilton
G
see page 13; or a dinner show (Wallman’s, see page 12).
iven that the office Christmas party meal, the julefrokost, is such an institution in this country, it’s important to remember to book
Wherever it is, don’t forget that your employees or fel-
early. Whether it’s for your office party, end-of-season
low club members will need to make a journey, often in
club gathering, or family Christmas lunch because you
the early hours of the morning, and sometimes cycling
can’t be bothered with all the washing-up and argu-
isn’t the safest option. So it’s extremely handy and reas-
ments about who won the almond game, the competi-
suring to know that the Metro runs all night on the Fri-
tion for venues and caterers is fierce.
days and Saturdays in the build-up to Christmas.
But this supplement is not just a reminder to book
POST BOX
early, it’s a recollection of how unique this time of year is in this country. The Danes are never more Danish than
President and Publisher - Ejvind Sandal
they are at Christmas. Roast pork, toast after toast of schnapps, multi-coloured herrings, almonds in the rice
Chief Executive - Jesper Nymark
pudding, dancing around the Christmas trees singing Editor - Ben Hamilton
songs they apparently know all nine verses to, and an ability to sit at the table for hours – almost every impor-
Layout & Design - Lyndsay Jensen
tant national characteristic is on display. Check out our feature on pages 4 to find out more.
Sales and Marketing Director - Hans Hermansen
For the clubs and companies, eating at someone’s
Sales and Advertising - Mark Millen, Amanda Knoll
home is not an option. It has to be either in-house (see If you would like to contact us or leave a comment: info@cphpost.dk
pages 14 for our feature on the best caterers in the city) or at a venue, be it a castle (Havreholm Slot, see page 11, a traditional Danish restaurant (Frida’s, see page
This supplement is published by The Copenhagen Post, please refer to our disclaimer on page 2 of the newspaper.
10), somewhere exotic (Croatian eatery Hercegovina,
Celebrate Christmas at Havreholm ... or any other special occasion
Festive Christmas balls on 26 November, 4 December and 10 December, doors open at 7pm Christmas buffet featuring all the delicacies of the season. Lively dance music from 9:30 to 1. Cocktail, buffet, coffee and dance music included in price of admission.
Price per person kr 638,Rooms available at discount rates
Splendid buffets served throughout December. Experience the old manor’s exquisite decorations and the carols of the season echo throughout the hall - Christmas at its finest!
Klosterrisvej 4 • Havreholm • DK-3100 Hornbæk Tel: +45 4975 8600 • Fax: +45 4975 8023 havreholm@havreholm.dk • www.havreholm.dk 3
Julefrokost: The Christmas Lunch - 15 - 21 October 2010
yule DO AS THE DANES DO DANISH CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS By Ben Hamilton and David Smith
Like most countries, Christmas starts early in this country, in July to be exact. And while this is the horrendous annual Santa Claus conference at Bakken, it is kind of apt as the Danish name for July, juli, is only one letter short of spelling its name for Christmas, jul. (Ditto for Satan and Santa.) That’s right, Jul as in Yule, as in wheel - a Pagan celebration marking the changing of the seasons pre-dating Jesus. So quite fittingly, there’s no room for the son of God in the name of this celebration, as while some Danes still dabble in religion - they’re mostly Lutherans - it’s a small minority. They tend to go to church during the afternoon of December 24 (not December 25 as is traditional in many other countries), and it is on the evening of this day when all the festivities take place: the meal, the presents, the dancing around the tree and Disney Show. So while in Denmark Christmas is anticipated for six months, it’s over in six hours. Here’s a taste of what you can look forward to. (BH)
The Julefrokost The tradition of the office Christmas party meal, the julefrokost, is a preservation of an ancient feast – as well as a good excuse to eat and drink yourself silly. Over the past 2,000 years, Christmas has evolved through the centuries, appropriating other traditions and shifting with the priorities of the times. Still, one thing that has not changed about Christmas is the tradition of it being a time of feasts. From the long tables of the Vikings to the porcelain-serving plates of the absolute monarchs, the season has always been associated with merrymaking, fellowship and food. Though this feast has had many names over the centuries, it survives today in the spirit of the ‘julefrokost’. So what should be on the table of a traditional julefrokost? The answer is fat, salt, vinegar, sugar and alcohol, and of these enough to make the average nutritionist’s heart stop. Quite simply, the traditional winter foods of Northern Europe are preserved foods: pickled herring, sausage, mincemeat, cheese and, of course, beer and schnapps. Even though these dishes may seem heavy by our present standards, they are a testament to the ingenuity of the food-preserving methods of the chefs of old.
4
A julefrokost must begin with ‘sild’ (pickled herring), served on thinly-sliced rye bread and washed down with schnapps. This is followed by a series of dishes which can be served together or in various courses. These plates are the ‘pålæg’ (cold cuts) and the ‘lune retter’ (warm plates). The cold cuts consist of sausages, rolled meats and ‘sylte’ (pig’s feet, head and tail minced and suspended in fat jelly with basil). But of all these dishes, the most necessary is ‘rullepølse’ (pork rolled with pepper into a swirled sausage). In the most traditional homes, rullepølse is pressed for a number of weeks before the lunch. Among the warm plates, we find cabbage, beetroot, caramelised potatoes, ‘frikadeller’ (pork meatballs) and ‘flæskesteg’ (pork roast with crackling). In themselves, the dishes served in the lune retter are the staples of the nation’s traditional cuisine - with frikadeller and flæskesteg being unquestionably the two most beloved of all dishes. If you are looking to do a lot after a julefrokost, forget about it. Even an abbreviated version of one might take three or four hours to work through, and with all the ‘skåle’ (toasts) going on all through the meal, you’ll probably have difficulty standing. And don’t forget that no traditional julefrokost is complete without various cheeses for the final course, and after these, ‘konfekt’
(homemade marzipan and nougat candies) and ‘småkage’ (‘pebbernøder’, ‘vaniliekranse’ and ‘brunkager’ cookies). Still hungry? Good. In addition to these morsels, there are plenty of nuts and chocolates as
well as ‘gløgg’ (mulled wine). In the myriad of this food and drink, of course, there is fellowship, which in Danish may be translated in part as ‘hygge’ - the spirit of togetherness and good cheer against the harshness of the time year. DS
Julefrokost: The Christmas Lunch - 15 - 21 October 2010
A different
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Christmas Dinner Menu
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Soup Jerusalem Artichoke, chestnuts and coconut cream Argentinean Chardonnay
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Julefrokost: The Christmas Lunch - 15 - 21 October 2010
Nisser and risalamande Often regarded as usurpers of Christmass’ true meaning, the Danish nisser are in fact the country’s original Yuletide agents. You can see them in almost every shop window dressed in their red suits with their beards and mischievous smiles, and those of you who have children will probably have had them to visit for one night in the build-up to the big day – a visit that will put your written Danish skills to the test as you are obliged to write an account for the nursery’s wall afterwards. While nisser are portrayed as cartoonish, happy-go-lucky gnomes today, they are actually surviving remnants of the pagan gods. Following the arrival of Christianity, ancient religion was pushed out of the cities and into the villages. Among the peasantry, ancient gods thrived as protective spirits of the farm. These spirits usually lived in the lofts of houses or barns and demanded a tribute to ensure that the annual harvest went well. Although this tribute was not isolated to Yuletide and demanded all year round, during Christmas each farm’s spirit required the best of the year’s grain (or imported rice), mixed with butter and - the most valuable of all commodities - sugar. In this way, the tradition of ‘risalamande’ (rice pudding with almonds) was born. So we have the nisser to thank for every family’s favourite game in which the finder of the only whole almond wins a prize. As the tradition is today, each nisse requires rice pudding on Christmas Eve, or otherwise he will play pranks on the house. Nowadays these pranks are practical jokes, but in ancient times they were serious. Nisser were blamed for the death of livestock, the spoiling of food stores, and causing still-births and premature death. In fact, one of the etymological origins of the word ‘nisse’ may be the old Norse word for infection. However, a more likely way in which nisser got their name was through a belief that is common in many religions. In many faiths,
including Judaism and Christianity, it is a sin to say God’s name. In medieval Denmark, this belief was prevalent, but it came with the usual Danish flourish: though it was a sin to say the name of one’s spirit protector, one could nickname him. But what name in Danish should a spirit have? Answer: Niels - the most traditional of Danish names, for the country’s most traditional Yuletide symbol, the nisser. DS
Advent wreaths As the Christmas season begins in earnest, traditional Advent ring decorations will go on display on dining tables and on window ledges in homes around the country. Most commonly circular, these ornamental arrangements of fir and other seasonal branches, dried berries, pine cones, and hedgerow fruits come originally from northern Germany, but gained popularity here, particularly under the occupation during the Second World War. Nowadays no cosy Christmas household scene would be complete without at least one. Although the four candles on an Advent ring represent the four Sundays in the Church’s Advent calendar, the initiative to introduce the rings into Christmas tradition came from flower traders rather than from the Church. It was only when the decoration had become an intrinsic part of popular Yuletide folklore that the Church adopted it as a symbol, in the same way that the Christmas tree came to play its role one century before. DS
Gløgg and Æbleskiver Gløgg has been known in Sweden since the mid 19th century, but over time became so widespread in Denmark that it has been justifiably adopted by Danish Yuletide. The original gløgg was a fairly different drink from the one we know today. The spices were by and large the same - cardamom, cinnamon, lemon, raisins and almonds - but the liquid consisted of
(burned) cognac, arrack and Madeira. The gløgg that is now served in cafés, bars and at Christmas markets is made with red wine and added schnapps or brandy. But just like there aren’t two identical ways to prepare frikadeller, all recipes for gløgg differ slightly - if you disregard the ready-made spice mixtures sold in sachets together with bottles of wine. Turning the most exquisite red wine into gløgg is, arguably, quite pointless. But despite the many added ingredients to alter the taste, a really cheap red can spoil the whole drink. Gløgg is often served with æbleskiver - doughy balls that originally contained a piece of apple inside. Today, they commonly come with jam and icing sugar to dip them in. DS
Dancing around the tree So far the traditions probably haven’t differed that much from your own. Sure there’s food, candles, alcohol and sweet things to eat, and a non-Christian angle, but where the Danes really stand out is their insistence on spending a whole evening handing out presents. In many Western families this event can be over in five minutes; in Denmark after five minutes you’re still holding hands and dancing around the Christmas tree, singing the fifth verse of the opening song, with Granny vainly trying to keep up – crash, ‘I told you it was a bad idea to get Mormor porcelain.’ More songs follow, and the perils continue because Danes don’t use fairy lights. No, they light candles and then arrange them in fancy holders dangerously close to the tinsel. And then once you’ve done a few impromptu tours of the house, it’s back to the living room (to discover it’s burned down) where the most incapable, poorly-qualified member of the house (she can’t read, she doesn’t know everyone’s names yet and she needs changing every 60 minutes after too much risalamande), your three-yearold niece, has been selected to hand out the presents, one by one, for four and a half sodding hours. BH
Danish Christmas songs It would be sacrilegious to call them carols as very few of them mention Jesus, but it’s impressive how many of them there are – an indication that when it comes to Christmas, the Danes have really made it their own. Indeed, only the Danish version of ‘Silent Night’ (which has been translated into at least 44 different languages from its original German) is a regular fixture on a list in which ‘jul’ features in ever other title. ‘Nu det jul igen’ is pretty catchy, even if it does suggest the absurd notion of continuing the celebrations until Easter, but then again, given how cold January or February are, maybe they’ve got a point. BH
Xmas Disney Show No Danish Christmas is complete without everyone watching the same compilation of Disney clips for the zillioneth time. Bambi iceskating, the chipmunks hiding in Mickey’s tree – every year, you pray for Snow White’s step-mum to come and kill them all, but she’s too busy looking in the mirror. (Really, your best bet is to buy the hosts the DVD and cryptically tell them that it’s for next year … two hours before you arrive for dinner. (BH)
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Julefrokost: The Christmas Lunch - 15 - 21 October 2010
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Julefrokost: The Christmas Lunch - 15 - 21 October 2010 15 21 OCTOBER
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Zone 3 Zone 4
let´s go 9
Julefrokost: The Christmas Lunch - 15 - 21 October 2010
Free your inner Danish hygge By Brendan Cooney Frida’s Restuarant Gammel Kongevej 5; 1610 Cph V; open 11:0024:00, (kitchen open 12:00-21:30), closed Sundays; 3331 6510; http://www.spishosfridas.dk/; set menu for 128kr
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visitor to Denmark soon discovers the concept of hygge, or coziness. This can be the feeling by the hearth of a family’s home, or a Christmas meal at a restaurant such as Frida’s, across the street from the Planetarium on the Vesterbro edge of the lakes in central Copenhagen. You step into the hyggelig dining room at Frida’s and soon forget the dreary December weather. Everything is aglow inside: red napkins and tablecloths adorned with holly leaves and stars, wicker lampshades, ivy wreaths, pine sprigs. Nissemen, the foot-high magical trolls most active in the Christmas season, dangle from a rack of copper pots and golf clubs. Hearts and stars hang by red
ribbons from the ceiling. My date and I took our seats at the row of tables running down the centre of the room, flanked by rows of booths. If you’re as shy as the Danes, you might be uncomfortable bumping elbows with the stranger beside you, but a shot of schnapps takes care of that. ‘You’re a lucky girl!’ said an old woman with silver-capped teeth to my date. ‘He reminds me of my husband of 40 years. He wasn’t always faithful, but it was worth it.’ We thought she was talking about a past relationship until her date came back from the bathroom and she told him: ‘We were talking about you.’ The motto on the menus at Frida’s is: ‘Good food takes time - we serve only good food.’ That’s no lie, though it’s hard to notice the wait when there’s wine, beer and schnapps to think about, and skals (toasts) to be made. We raised our glasses to each other, and to a neighbouring Spanish father and daughter on the next table. The special Christmas menu comes with English translations. It’s your choice of herring to start off with. There’s a pickled herring with on-
ions and capers for 49 kroner, but we chose the curried herring with eggs, onions and capers for 59 kroner. (There’s also a smoked eel with scrambled eggs for 89 kroner.) Next we had three delicious flounder filets (98 kroner), two toasted and one steamed, with caviar, shrimp, and pickled asparagus. (The Danish taste for pickled foods stems from the long winters and the days before refrigeration, when foods were stored through pickling or smoking.) Perhaps the lynchpin of the Danish feast is the open-faced sandwich: a slice of bread, a meat, and garnish. Just as succulent as the fish was the Danish version of the burger, a minced beef steak with raw onions, chopped beets, horseradish, served over toast, with an egg yolk you pour over the top (98 kroner). The combination would never have occurred to me, but I was glad someone had figured it out, because it works. You can feel all the disparate tastes coming alive in your mouth. Clear it off with a sip of red wine and go in for more. Wait a minute. A Danish traditional meal without pork? Impossible. This is the land with more
pigs than people. Our stomachs opened secret chambers for the tender pork roast with crackling and homemade red cabbage (69 kroner). Among the other pork options are the aebleflaesk, which is a Danish classic: layers of pork and baked apples topped with crispy bacon. In the interest of Danish culture, we were forced to top it all off with a delectable bowl of rice pudding with chopped almonds and cherry sauce. In the Danish Christmas game, the person who finds the one intact almond in their mouth wins a prize. The eponymous Frida opened the restaurant in 1954, and Lene Palmberg and her buxom daughter, Camilla, took over in 2000. Mother and daughter were both working the day we were there, adding the family touch to the hyggelig ambience. You may not see the sun much in Denmark during December, but everything’s shining in Frida’s. If you’re still able to get on a bike with all this holiday merriment in your stomach, you’re a better Dane than I.
food worth the wait!
You step into the
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hyggelig dining room at Frida’s and soon forget the dreary December weather. You may not see the sun much in Denmark during December, but everything’s shining in Frida’s.
the irish rover
upstairs lounge COPENHAGEN
Christmas Dinner and Party’s Here at the Rover We offer Traditional Irish Christmas Dinner of Turkey and Ham with all the Festive Trimmings, We also offer a Traditional Danish Christmas dinner of Roast Pork with all the Trimmings We offer a 3 course menu: Choice of starters: soup, prawn cocktail or green salad Main course: choice of Christmas Dinner Dessert choice: Ris ala man, hot apple pie with ice cream, christmas pudding with custard
Price : 249DKK
Enjoy your Christmas dinner in Copenhagen’s most award winning micro brewery! Try our Chef’s recommended 5 course Christmas dinner incl. 6 glasses of our own hand brewed beer
only 500 kr,-
We cater for groups of 4 to 50 Please call for group Booking price. T: +45 3333 7393 www.theirishrover.dk
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+45 35300530 ryesgade 3 * 2200 kbh n www.noerrebrobryghus.dk
Julefrokost: The Christmas Lunch - 15 - 21 October 2010
Christmas at the castle By Ben Hamilton Havreholm Slot Klosterrisvej 4, Havreholm, 3100 Hornbæk; available from 19:00 on Nov 26, Dec 4 and Dec 10; 638kr per person; 4975 8600, havreholm@havreholm.dk; www.havreholm.dk
great atmosphere
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aving your Christmas office party at a table in a big restaurant doesn’t feel right. Sure, the food’s good and hopefully there’s a free bar, but it’s difficult for the rowdy to run riot among the other diners without encountering problems. And while a private room eliminates this problem, it can limit other activities like games, dancing and making photocopies of extreme exteriors and obscene posteriors – the barometer of any classic Xmas do. But if you’re the boss, the office probably isn’t ideal either. You don’t want to deal with the clear-up, a page-by-page illustration of all your shortcomings from a disgruntled freelancer, and a broken photocopier – and if you leave early, you’re going to come in on Monday and find out that someone’s nicked all your wine, written graffiti all over your notices, and left a pig loose in your office. So the only sensible option is a venue – a location that can cater to all of your needs and make your employees, for at least one day of the year, feel like you appreciate all the hard work they do. Treat them royally and they’ll repay you loyally. And nothing will make them feel more special than giving them a comfortable bed to sleep it off in. Rather like the recent metamorphosis of the bachelor party into the stag weekend, bosses are now waking up to the idea of sleepover office parties. And while the cynics among you might think this encourages liaisons outside the job description of the PR department, on a more serious note it makes it less likely that your employees on their journey home will fall off their bike, get arrested, or fall asleep on the train and wake up in Stockholm. One venue offering such a package is northern Zealand’s Havreholm Slot, a castle on the coast between Copenhagen and Helsingor. While staying over is not compulsory - transport can be easily arranged back to the city – it does add that extra glamour to the experience of staying the night in a luxurious castle in the country-
side. Cuddle up next to a cosy fireplace, freak out the office junior and tell him the place is haunted, or murder your CEO in the dining room with the lead piping, it promises to be a good time for all. The Christmas party proceedings kick off at 19:00 with welcome drinks and a huge Christmas buffet (all ingredients are local, organic and seasonal), followed by some ‘swinging’ dance music at the ball from 21:30 until 01:00. And if you’re staying the night, breakfast is served between 08:00 and 10:30, and check-out is at 11:00. All of the facilities at the castle are modern, and all year round it is busy hosting conferences (its largest room can accommodate 130 people), company workshops, weddings and wedding receptions, and golf weekends. The choice of bedroom ranges from standard to some really splendid out-buildings, and its leisure facilities includes a nine-hole golf course, four tennis courts, a squash court, a sauna, a whirlpool and outdoor and indoor swimming pools, as well as areas to play table tennis, darts, billardhus, and petanque.
So for bosses looking for that extra special Christmas work party, escape the city and head out to the castle for a night your employees will be shouting about from the fortifications for years to come.
Cheeky chappy from
LoNDoN! Simonfisk / Fisk & Færdigt is the closest you get to Harrods Food Hall in Copenhagen • 0ver 30 years international experience as a chef
WE SELL FrESH FiSH!
• Your expert guide for recipes and tips on how to prepare your fish, game or venison *Phesants coming soon* • Don’t forget to order your smoked salmon, turkey & goose now for Thanksgiving and Christmas and lobsters / scallops for New Year’s Eve. • Catering - (un)traditional office Christmas lunch with a choice of starters & desserts, turkey, goose or roast pork. We can organise the whole event even the crackers and mincepies, just give us a call and we’ll take care of you! • Shop - you will find a selection of fresh fish, home-made oven ready meals, sauces, soups and all the Danish specialities - gravadlaks, fiskefrikadeller, remoulade etc.
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FiSH & CHiPS Coming soon! Thu & Fri: 8pm
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50% off all fresh Northsea fish in November
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You’LL LovE uS! We’re not the biggest, but we’re the best!
open Wednesday - Saturday / Time: 10.00 - 17.30 / 10.00 - 14.00 • Call and order/ collection until 18.30
Fisk & Færdigt • H.C. Ørstedsvej 37 b • 1879 Frederiksberg • tel: 35351729 / mobile: 21435803 • info@simonfisk.dk
CLoSE To ForuM METro STaTioN / ParkiNg ouTSiDE
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Julefrokost: The Christmas Lunch - 15 - 21 October 2010 magical show!
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This dinner is a showstopper By Simon Cooper Wallman’s Dinner Show - a new season, Cirkusbygningen, Jernbanegade 8, 1609 Cph V; Thu-Sun (sometimes Wed) 19:00-23:00, until 11 June 2011; tickets: adults 495-975kr, under-12s from 238kr; 3316 3700; info.wallmans@wallmans.com; not recommended for kids under six; www.wallmans.dk
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t’s a curious relationship a diner forms with a waiter. Depending on your predisposition, you can engage with them as little or as much as you like. Yes they serve you food - some excellent, like Wallmans, some bad enough to cause said waiter personal grief as he clears your table. Perhaps one thing you don’t come to expect from waiters however is an alter ego - a theatrical performer by trade, a food server through training. Which, in a nutshell, makes Wallman’s what it is - a spectacle. A group of dancers - professionally trained and with credits from Cats and Chicago to the Eurovision Song Contest - all expertly showboating in dance as well as song, instrument playing and magic, reacquainting the old building with its former circus pizzazz. From the point at which we breeze down the red carpet and into the foyer, it dawns on us that we’re here to be spoilt. Tuxedoed staff serving
flutes of champagne greet us before we are en- sarsson, are balancing and catching pots next to snared by a seductive onstage blues duo. Muted us. It soon becomes clear that, despite the array anticipation reigns. Cloisters of dapper guests of colour in the cast, Jocke is the golden ticket. look at ease despite the exaggerated big top de- Responding positively, the audience applaud and cor and loud colours. Like a passing rumour in titter between themselves - soon to be subdued a crowd, what lies behind the arena doors is a however by the next dish: fired, rustic pots of hearty beef and oxtail with a tangy, leek and onion source of frustrated excitement. stock. It’s the meal’s most deliNot for much longer though. cious high point and could almost We’re ushered to our seats, one of As we dust off our be Vietnamese - only with Danseveral hundred studded around cantuccini biscuits, ish ingredients. Though beer and the staggered floors overlookthe curtain comes wine continues to be offered, it’s ing the stage. Our waiter Pierre down and the 14 greets us and explains how he’ll brilliant actors-cum- the visual accompaniment which makes the course: white-suited flip between the role now and waiters bid their waiters jigging to upbeat music, the singer later. A plate of startfairwells. We clock the stage set changing and evolvers is already out: aged Swedish a look from Pierre; cheese tartlette, a superb shrimp dinner will never be ing before our eyes. Next up is steak. It’s brilliant, cocktail and a sour-cheese dip. like this again. especially with a potato fondant, Lobster bisque arrives shortly after, with a ballsy and confident rendition of ‘I but the real action is happening away from our Gotta Feeling’ by the Black Eyed Peas unfolding plates. Aforementioned clown and magician, the figurehead of the festival, begins his solo gig. It’s onstage by a few singers and an ecstatic pianist. It’s whilst we wait for our second course that not over-rehearsed, cliche or unfunny - instead, things begin to get interesting. With the interior armed with a giant toy box, he yanks out various lighting dimming and rising with performances, props, ropes in participants and generally creates some of the waiting staff are running amok. captivating mayhem. He’s one man in a room of Gasps can be heard when a dummy tray of plates hundreds, but his energy spreads like wildfire. is knocked over onto a table, only for them to be Upon balancing atop of a ladder he yells: ‘I norplastic and attached by strings. Two of them, in- mally do this trick on grass - but I ran out this cluding the zaniest of the lot Joachim ‘Jocke’ As- morning.’
Frida´s Frida´s
Restaurant Restaurant
Traditional Danish Food at its best. Traditional Danish Food at its best. Good food takes time - we serve only good food TryTry a Danish Lunch with herring CHRISTMAS MENU aDanish Danish Christmas Lunch TryTry a Lunch with herring a Danish Christmas Lunch and perhaps Danish snaps. TABLE SERVICE with herring and herring perhaps Danish and perhaps Danish snaps.Snaps. Marinated with red Danish onions with herring and perhaps Snaps. Homemade curried herring Crab salad Freshly smoked with asparagus Frida’s homemade Christmas brawn with beetroots and mustard Black pudding with apple sauce and molasses Old fashioned apples with bacon Frida’s Danish meatballs with pickled vegetables Duck with homemade red cabbage Glazed ham with stewed kale Pork loin with homemade red cabbage Rice pudding with almonds and cherry sauce and a variety of cheeses
Price DKK. 299 per person Open from 11.00 to midnight Open from to midnight • Advance orders 11.00 only – binding agreement • Lunch 12.00 – 15.30 Don’t forget a with your coffee and Christmas dinner isn’t complete without Lunch 12.00 – 15.30 17.00 (– 21.3012:00-21:30), K 5 • 1610 Dinner C v• 11:00-24:00, Dinner 17.00 t: 3331 6510 • F: 3331 6518 • – .21.30 .
Extra: Smoked eel with warm scrambled eggs DKK. 40 per person. With the Christmas menu only, Coffee and Braastad Cognac DKK. 45
Gammel
onGevej
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KitChen open
www spishosFridas dK
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Closed
sundays
Shortly after this, and the completion of our medium rare entrecote, he’s at it again. This time, skirting the tables in various costumes, doing magic tricks and even finding time to tell me that ‘the way to the toilet is out the door, left and on the number 38 bus’. His gags have humanity, his demeanour seemingly unrehearsed. Without dwelling on the ‘Barbie Girl’ bit, other musical performances over the night include the vocal triplet of Elton John, Tina Turner and David Bowie. The inseparable due of Summer of ‘69 and Livin’ on a Prayer hold up well as piano ballads and there’s Katy Perry and Abba thrown in too. It’s family-friendly - though in reality precious few young ones are here - despite the presence of many naked limb limbering in the spotlight. Fresh (despite the heavy volume of shows) and rambunctious, the onstage art is only the tip of the iceberg of risque behaviour. A waiter rides a toy ostrich around the floor, stroking the neck suggestively between his legs and striking saucy silhouette poses with a female behind a white screen. Then there’s an audience participation round using a slot machine worn by, yep Jocke. Pudding is mascarpone mouse with amaretto and a medley of Michael Jackson - the latter part provided by the artists rather than the chefs. As we dust off our cantuccini biscuits, the curtain comes down and the 14 brilliant actors-cumwaiters bid their farewells. We clock a look from Pierre; dinner will never be like this again.
Julefrokost: The Christmas Lunch - 15 - 21 October 2010
Breathing Gypsy soul into Yuletide By Simon Cooper Restaurant Hercegovina Bernstorffsgade 3, 1577 Cph V, also accessible through Tivoli; open Mon-Sun 12:00-1&:00 and 17:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 17:00 and 22:00); 3315 6363; www.hercegovina.dk
great recipes
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he phrase ‘Croatian cuisine’, aside from being neatly alliterative, isn’t familiar to the lion’s share of us. And Hercegovina the restaurant, likewise, is probably lesser-known than its Balkan namesake. But it shouldn’t be. Based on the industrious integrity of its style, this city-centre eatery seeks to spell out the greatness of traditional food for all of us. This Hercegovina has the benefit of being exceptionally located. It comprises part of Tivoli’s perimeter and the park’s innards cast a starry canvas up behind the restaurant’s glass annexe - giving you a sense of loftiness and dignity. In the centre of the sea of comforting red carpet and beneath the wooden arches lies a stunning spread, a buffet fit for the world and his wife. The centrepiece of all this is a rotating hue leg of lamb on a skewer that, perhaps more than anything, serves as a cornerstone of the restaurant’s ethos: community. The passing up of the a la carte menu was a task made simpler by a few fervent recommendations from our waiter. In line, however, was the buffet - a sprawling yet orderly patchwork of Croatian dishes punctuated by ones of seasonal Danish produce. As tempting as the antipasti or the veal looked, the impression was that skipping the buffet was like giving two fingers up to the party. The broad rooms were packed and most were heading for the hot plate and cold cart. We were brought an aperitif called Prosec, a sweet and raisin-like viscous wine akin to a French dessert one. Chilled and with ice, this was a great starting note. Whilst my friend plunged illogically into various cuts of meats, I went for goulash - a deep, dark beefy soup with diced carrots, potato and pepper. After this we helped ourselves to some more Danish fare of juicy herrings on rye bread, egg, prawn and smoked salmon with a sweetly biting lime, vinegar and dill sauce. ‘Main course’ is an ill-applied label with such consistently good food. Though, technically, the native cevapcici and the pljeskavica were the pieces de resistance. The former were croquette-shaped seasoned mince beef with parsley and the latter sublimely grilled lamb patties cut through by garlic, onion and paprika. On top of this there was sweet, smoked pork with crackling, breaded plaice and accompaniments from roast potatoes to pickled vegetables, and a tremendous Spinach cream spinach. A whole manner of flavours complemented well-sourced and tender meat – proof that the Croatian ‘food of the regions’ mixes well with Danish. The complete finish to the complete meal was Ris á l’amande, sticky, tasty and perfect with the remains of our Montenegrian Vranac wine. Fruity and peppery together, this had matched the lamb bite by bite as well as sealing the meal. Hercegovina’s many waiting staff were cheerily busy yet unobtrusive, and the buffet was steadily visited by patient yet clearly ravenous punters of all ages. The atmosphere, conjured partly by the Christmas buffet, was ceremonious and celebratory and one that would have been enlivened still by the gypsy musicians and dancers – apparently of the belly variety - that were due to start that evening. And when these factors of food and folklore converge, Hercegovina is yet more of a winner. Amidst such healthy hustle and bustle, the food on offer here is much more than simple, honest Croatian cuisine.
great flavours!
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A whole manner of flavours complemented well-sourced and tender meat - proof that the Croation ‘food of the regions’ mixes well with Danish.
Nice Plums missus! Now in autumn/early winter we think of the nice Danish ’hygge’ of candles, soups, and spicy foods. So here’s a great recipe for a little glass of ‘Hygge’. You can find plums cheaply in most supermarkets, so buy a few kilos and make for yourself and friends. Nice plums are very versatile. You can serve them with cold meats, chutney, game/ venison, cheese, in pancakes, on their own with whipped cream or custard, or in a trifle.
Ingredients: • 1 kg firm plums, halved or quartered if they are large (you can also use damsons or gooseberries) • Fresh peeled ginger grated or cut in fine julienne (like matchsticks) • 120 g sugar (we use økologisk rørsukker)
Method: In a thick-bottomed casserole on a low heat, warm a little oil with ginger and sugar (you can also add a chilli or a cinnamon stick). Let them caramelise a little, add plums, stir once or twice and let the plums poach for 8-10 minutes – they should still be firm not mushy. Let them cool off a little, then taste; if you’re happy, spoon the plums up into a jam glass. Boil the liquid down a little and pour into the glass. So now you have Nice Plums Missus! Recipe by Simon, info@simonfisk.dk
Home-smoked fish:
Salmon, Trout or Mackerel In 2010 the world fell in love with home-smoked fish. Everyone who tried it loved it. It’s easy and will impress your friends. You don’t need to buy a special oven, but a gas stove or a barbeque are neccessary .
Ingredients: • Buy a nice piece of fish. Lightly salt and keep cool.
Method: To smoke you will need a deep cast iron pot or similar. You could also use an aluminium tray (grill). Line the bottom of the pot with aluminium foil, spread sawdust (røgsmuld) 2 cm deep over the bottom. You can buy sawdust at your fishmonger/ butcher or at camping shops. You can smoke your fish without seasoning or with garlic, pepper or even poppyseeds. Find a grate that fits in your pot from your oven, or even a flour sieve. Place your fish on the grate so it hangs approximately 10-15 cm over the sawdust. You need to seal your pot with a lid and aliminium foil. You can also make a dough with flour / water to seal the edges. Place your pot over the gas ring og barbeque outside. Let it smoke over a half flame for approximately 20 – 30 minutes. If you have invited the queen, your boss or the mother-in-law, you should try the recipe at least once before serving. After smoking for 20-30 minutes, turn off the gas and let the pot cool down for 20 min. Open up the pot (outside or with the extractor on full power) So how should you serve your fish? With salad and dressing , in an omelette, flaked over pasta. Warm or cold or in your lunch box. Just enjoy it!! Now you’re hooked and ready to try home-smoked garlic chicken, or what next? If you need more help come down to Fisk & Færdigt on H.C.Ørstedsvej and we’ll explain . We’ve also got sawdust for you. Info@simonfisk.dk
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Julefrokost: The Christmas Lunch - 15 - 21 October 2010
Catering to all tastes By Alexis Kuznak
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ulefrokost is the Danish word for the infamous office Christmas party. Though it literally translates as ‘Christmas lunch’, this event begins in the early evening and can last until the next morning. It includes the traditional songs, schnapps, and scenes of alcohol-fuelled drama that are connected to office Christmas parties around the world, but with one key difference: the food. In Denmark, the julefrokost is organised around a rigidly traditional menu of several roasted meats and fish, eaten with dark rye bread, beer and schnapps. The classic julefrokost buffet begins with herring, liver pate, and chicken salad, and can include roast beef, ham, roast pork and roast duck. The traditional dessert is called ‘Ris a la Mande’, a kind of rice pudding blended with cream and almonds, served with strawberry or cherry sauce. Employers throw many different styles of julefrokost. Some are smaller and held in private homes, others can have 200 guests and focus on dancing and games, but julefrokost is an expected yearly tradition and the busiest season of the year for Denmark’s catering companies. Within the traditional set menu, caterers work on creating their own Christmas specials and buffet selections.
ATGourmet www.atgourmet.dk ATGourmet is the creation of owner and chef Anders Thomsen, and the concept behind the company is that everything is made from scratch, right down to the liver pate. ‘Many catering companies buy ready-made herring, chicken salad, and red cabbage, and pour it directly from the plastic into a serving bowl,’ says Thomsen. ‘My dishes are homemade and I make all the accompanying dishes myself, including the mayonnaise, beets, red cabbage, onions for the roast beef, etc.’ ATGourmet offers the classic julefrokost buffet with a selection of side dishes, as well as a Christmas dinner for the
24th that can be prepared down to one person, with staff on call over Christmas and New Year’s Day.
Mit Grønne Køkken www.m-g-k.dk/Julefrokost.html Located in Frederiksberg, Mit Grønne Køkken caters to many businesses in the immediate area with a range of sandwiches, smørrebrød and buffets. For julefrokost, they offer the choice between the traditional and non-traditional buffet, both based on seasonal produce described on their website. Classic dishes can include roast pork or meatballs, while their non-traditional menu lists parma ham, bruschetta with figs, and breast of duck.
Kogekunsten www.kogekunsten.dk This Østerbro-based catering service has a selection of fixed menus, buffets, tapas, and even raw foods. This year for Christmas they have decided to ditch the traditional menu altogether and offer spicy variations such as herring marinated in green curry with pickled ginger, or a roulade of smoked halibut, white fish and nori seaweed. Two versions of the Christmas buffet are available: one is a menu with tapas, and the other a standard buffet.
Madmedmening www.madmedmening.com/index.php Madmedmening, or ‘food with meaning’, is a catering and lunch service that specialises in using completely organic products to make traditional foods. The company delivers seasonal and organic dishes for private and business events, as well as packed lunches for conferences. Their julefrokost follows along the same lines, which means food created in a simple style, with organic ingredients that match the season of the year.
Restaurant Hercegovina at Tivoli all inclusive christmas event The evening begins at 7:30 with a warm cup of Hercegovina’s homemade Christmas punch in the restaurant’s festively decorated dining room. After that, you’ll be welcome to make the most of our Deluxe Christmas Buffet with all the traditional tastes of the season. In addition to Danish dishes, we’ll also be serving our own Croatian specialities and of course rice pudding for dessert, as well as coffee and cognac or other liqueur. Beer, soft drinks and house wine will be served ad libitum until 1:30am. After meal entertainment includes a Gypsy band playing a mix of traditional and popular songs. There will also be Gypsy and belly dancing, and guests are encouraged to participate. The evening’s main attraction will be Birgit and Helge. The duo is scheduled to take the stage at 9:30. They remind the audience that appropriately festive attire is required. After the show, DJ Kasper will be spinning the Price per person tunes, and the dance floor will be open 2. at until 1:30am. Doors close
Birgit and Helge Scandinavia’s zaniest couple wants you at their paaaarty. With their fast paced humour, an evening with the couple known as Mr and Mrs Denmark promises to be an entertaining and impulsive one.
Our authentic Gypsy musicians Our after dinner show kicks off with Gypsy and belly dancing
The deluxe buffet with all the fixin gs
995,-
Have fun and have a Happy Christmas!
Hercegovina • Bernstorffsgade 3 • 1620 Copenhagen V • Tel. 3315 63 63 • www.hercegovina.dk 14
Julefrokost: The Christmas Lunch - 15 - 21 October 2010
4-star experience in the heart of copenhagen Make your christMas wishes coMe true
christmas lunch Let saLt restaurant take you on a culinary christmas adventure, where traditional ingredients are transformed into new and exciting dishes. 245 Dkk per person from noon-2:30 pm in the saLt restaurant December 1-23 table reservations +45 3314 1444
private christmas party
warm up to hot holiday prices
have your christmas dinner in your own private function room. enjoy fine dining and one of copenhagen’s most beautiful views over the harbour to the opera house. Valid from December 1-26 for groups of 15130 persons. 3-course menu 375 Dkk, 4-course menu 445 Dkk
accommodation in a standard double room, including full breakfast buffet 460 Dkk per person per day. the offer is valid from 18 December 2010 – 2 January 2011 for a limited number of rooms.
christmas party Join our christmas party with buffet dinner, dancing and live music performed by the copy right orchestra. tables for the event can be reserved for november 26, December 3, 4, 10, 11, and 17. 560 Dkk per person.
-an attraction in itself Toldbodgade 24-28 | DK-1253 Copenhagen K | T: +45 33 74 14 14 | admiral@admiralhotel.dk | www.admiralhotel.dk | www.salt.dk 15
christmas at wallmans
a perfect night out to remember!
enjoy full-blown entertainment with a special christmas edition of the unique international Dinnershow smile, including 7 musical inspired performances accompanied by a four course christmas menu. on stage is a string of outstanding singers, dancers and performers, who have had parts in musicals such as “cats” and “chicago” and survived shows such as the eurovision song contest and cirque du soleil.
prices from 400 DKK
- musical show - entrance to wallmans nightclub - Xmas menu:
STARTER: Lobster bisque with dark croutons and dried leeks. Creamed gourmet prawns with horseradish and powdered fennel. Oven-baked Kloster cheese from Skåne, made from skimmed milk and egg from Kiaby, with a ramson coulis. Freshlybaked organic bread with sour butter creams. FIRST COURSE: Cassoulet of roast fore rib of Black Angus beef with oxtail gravy and crisp slow-cooked red fruit crudités. MAIN COURSE: Crispy roasted duck breast with soured apples and prune sauce served with fondant potatoes. DESSERT PLATTER: Mascarpone mousse with Amaretto and cocoa pâté. Selection of jellies with buckthorn and mandarin. Petit fours.
15% Discount off weDnesDay anD thursDay shows in november anD December!
to booK please call at +45 3316 3700 anD use the coDe “copenhagen post”