Scene Flavor 2013

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on the menu 6

Destination Saturation?

A look at the state of the Cleveland dining scene

10 America Loves Us!

A roundup of the accolades bestowed on Cleveland chefs and restaurants

13 Fall Preview

Plenty of high-profile openings await in Northeast Ohio

18 New Arrivals Every Which Way

It’s been a busy year in CLE, and plenty of new joints joined the fray

23 Buy/Sell/Hold

Trends we want to embrace, trends we can’t wait to see go

24 My Perfect Meal A tasting menu for every neighborhood handpicked by us

32 Chef Profiles You might not know their names, but they keep your belly full of goodness

Dedicated to: Free Times founder Richard H. Siegel (1935-1993)and Scene founder Richard Kabat Publisher Chris Keating Editorial Editor Vince Grzegorek Music Editor Jeff Niesel Staff Writer Sam Allard, Doug Brown, Eric Sandy Web Editor Alaina McConnell Dining Editor Douglas Trattner Contributing Writers Joseph Clark, Keith Gribbins, Christine Howey, Michael D. Roberts Interns Aziza Doleh, Cecily Rus, Patrick Stoops Creative Services Production Manager Steve Miluch Creative & Design Jenna Conforti Contributing Photographer Joe Kleon Retail Advertising & Promotions Advertising Director Shayne Rose Sr. Multimedia Account Executive John Crobar Multimedia Account Executives Madeline Bleiweiss, Brandon Clough, Amanda Klein, Heather Leitch, Brendan McHugh Sales Assistant Megan Stimac Marketing Director of Marketing Heather Popa Classified Advertising Classified Account Executives Jenell Marsek, Mark Zemba Circulation Director Don Kriss Asst. Business Manager Brian Painley Asst. To The Publisher Angela Lott Scene Magazine is published every week

by Times Shamrock Communications.

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Copyright: The entire contents of Cleveland Scene are copyright 2013 by Times Shamrock. No portion may be reproduced in whole or in part by any means, including electronic retrieval systems without the express written permission of the publisher.

Cleveland Scene Street Address 1468 W. Ninth St. Suite 805, Cleveland, OH 44113 General Information: 216-241-7550 Retail & Classified Fax: 216-802-7212 Editoral Fax: 216-241-6275 Business/HR Fax: 216-803-1155 E-mail: scene@clevescene.com

41 Cleveland Classics

An annotated collection of the Forest City’s indispensable restaurants @cleveland_scene facebook.com/clevelandscene

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The Diner on Clifton: Reasons Abound to Visit this Old School Staple in Lakewood The red pleather booths at the front of The Diner on Clifton, located on Lakewood’s Clifton Boulevard, may shine with that vibrant, iconic sheen typical of an old school diner, but this particular neighborhood hotspot is far from your average greasy-spoon diner.

Yes, The Diner on Clifton is different- for starters, nearly every item served on the menu is made from scratch, be it the dressings served on a mountainous freshly tossed salad, the potato chips accompanying a gluttonous double-stacked turkey sandwich, or the creamy tomato meat sauce atop a mound of thick-cut spaghetti noodles.

Diner Manger Maureen Szekelyi knows her customers can tell the difference between fresh and frozen, and she- along

with owner Perry Drosos and their small staff of dedicated employees- have opted to give their customers exactly what they want. “There’s absolutely a difference between fresh and frozen,” she says. “And we choose to get our meat and produce from the West Side Market. We get our cheese from Shaker Valley, and we get our pasta from Ohio City.”

That’s pretty darn fresh, if you ask us, but the unbeatably local fare is only one of the reasons patrons frequent this Edgewater neighborhood joint. The others include the excellent service, the friendly clientele, and the desserts-oh god, the desserts (think monstrous wedges of Snickers cheese cake, Oreo cake, carrot cake, and apple pie just begging to

“The Best Diner in the City!

Great Food, Great Prices, and Great people!”

- Rachel H / Cleveland, OH

“I love this diner, lots of fun memories!”

-Diana M / Jacksonville, FL

“Keeps me coming back for more!”

-Mary K / Lakewood, OH

“It was the best burger I’ve ever had in Cleveland” -Alan S / Broadview Heights, OH

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be ordered.)

Though the Diner on Clifton is open seven days a week, Szekelyi says that weekends are hands down their busiest services. “It’s absolute madness in here,” she says of their Saturday morning rush. “People are waiting by the door, tables are filled- once it starts it literally doesn’t stop,” she says with a laugh.

That’s because it’s not just the neighborhood regulars who come to the joint- though the diner’s got its fair share of those- it’s because The Diner on Clifton is also a destination restaurant for people around the country. During tourist season, it’s common to see hoards of out-of-town-folk piling into the 65-person-cap dining room for breakfast, lunch, and dinner,

or sometimes all three. “The hotels are always recommending us,” Szekelyi said.

Apart from catering to both über local and visiting crowds, the diner is also a place where friends meet, families dine, elderly couples play cards, and first dates happen. It’s a place where everyone’s welcome all the time, Szekelyi said. “Even if you’re an East Sider, come on over!” she jokes.

This kind of open, comfortable environment, combined with great food, plus all the fixings, has helped The Diner on Clifton flourish all these years—it will celebrate its 25th anniversary this May. “It’s unusual to have a restaurant around for 25 years these days,” Szekelyi says. “It’s good, it’s something special.”

Indeed, it is.

DESTINATION

SATURATION A look At the stAte of the ClevelAnd dining sCene By douglAs trAttner

Walk down West 25th Street in Ohio City today and you’ll spot a dozen restaurants that weren’t there as recently as four years ago. Ride your bike down Detroit Avenue in Lakewood and the story is pretty much the same, with nearly a dozen new restaurants coming online in just the past few years – and we’re not talking Subway and Jimmy John’s.

The Flats East Bank just sprouted three sporty new spots, which join many more new downtown eateries. Zack Bruell is weeks away from opening his seventh Cleveland spot in nine years, giving Woody Allen a run for his money in terms of production.

“There are Too many resTauranTs in Cleveland,The markeT musT be

has a few new projects up his sleeve. “It’s not like our customers are saying, ‘I have too many choices!’”

Schimoler says that pretty much everything you learned in school (had you been paying saTuraTed.” attention) still applies to restaurants. That means Despite knowing next to securing the right location, nothing about economics, I knowing who your key do recall something about demographic is, and supply and demand, which supplying the right product states that as consumers’ for that demo at the right demand for a product price point. increases, so too does the But given the sharp supply. Conversely, when rise in restaurants, and the demand for a product the oft-reported decline wanes, so too will the in local population, aren’t supply. operators vying for a slice I wondered: Do these of an ever-shrinking pie? same laws of economics “Yes, there’s a spike in apply to the Cleveland terms of new restaurants restaurant industry? opening, and yes the “This whole population isn’t increasing generalization that there at the same rate,” explains are too many restaurants Schimoler. “However, if in Cleveland I think is you look at downtown bullshit,” says Steve Cleveland, you are seeing Schimoler, who himself an increase in people

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destination saturation moving there. I’m also seeing a much wider net of customers now than when I opened Crop in 2007. I look at the reservations in Open Table and I see area codes from Atlanta, L.A., Chicago… people coming into town to do business at a corporate level.”

Doug Katz reports observing the same expansion in demographics at his 12-year-old restaurant Fire Food and Drink. “With websites and travel shows, more people are coming to Cleveland to eat at a Michael Symon restaurant, and then they get here and see what else is around,” he says. “Or they come to the Cleveland Clinic to see a doctor then go out to eat.”

New trends and options like small plates, vegan and vegetarian food, and trendy ethnic dishes are enticing

watch your budgets very closely, and you need to be very conservative about setting up your business.”

While stiffer competition is a boon for the diner, it isn’t always paradise for the owner, who has to keep his or her business fully staffed with professionals.

“My biggest worry and challenge is the labor pool and what’s available in the community in terms of staffing my kitchens and restaurants,” Katz notes.

“Poaching,” “It’s a dIfferent game than It was 12 or 15 years the unwelcome practice of soliciting a ago, when there were only so many good currently restaurants to choose from” employed individual to swap allegiances, is becoming and Provenance Café to his customers’ trust and keep it. portfolio of restaurants. “You increasingly common, say Are half of the restaurants chefs and owners. Also need to get an amazing deal that opened in the last 12 widespread is the migration of months going to fold in three on real estate, you have to more local customers who perhaps didn’t eat out so much before to do so now.

The clear winner in this ever-more-crowded landscape is us, the diner.

Every chef and operator I spoke with regarding the topic of industry growth responded with similar sentiments about how stiffer competition results in a better product.

“The bar keeps getting raised – you gotta get better and better,” Schimoler says.

“You have to gain your

years? It’s very possible.

Restaurants that survived on the edge before all these new restaurants opened will close.”

Now more than ever, say owners, restaurants need to be shrewdly conceived and cultivated at every stage of the process. Gone are the days of “build it and they will come.”

“It’s a different game than it was 12 or 15 years ago, when there were only so many good restaurants to choose from,” says Katz, who recently added Katz Club Diner, Provenance

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servers and bartenders from one new restaurant to the next to cash in on opening crowds.

When occurring at a high rate, both practices can hurt the diner’s experience thanks to a near-constant pool of green staffers. The way to counter that, of course, is to offer more money, better benefits and a more lucrative (aka busier) workplace. More and more, the only employers able to offer such perks are the multi-unit restaurant groups, which save money in ways small operators cannot.

“There are definite economic advantages for restaurant groups, like shared resources that cover accounting, payroll and HR,” says Schimoler. “Consolidated purchasing can mean the difference of two or three percentage points, which is huge.”

Big name operators can make or break a new development project, which means they’re often presented with the sort of sweetheart deals and favorable leaseholds that others would kill to secure.

So, does this mean that in the near future Clevelanders will only be dining in restaurants run by Zack Bruell, Doug Katz, Steve Schimoler, Eric Williams, Alan Glazen and Jon Sawyer?

Does the rise of the restaurant group signal the death of the small, independent operator?

No, says Schimoler.

“If you’re a mom-and-pop restaurant and you’re happy with netting 50, 60, 70 grand a year, you can survive quite a while if you stay on top of everything.”

Big or small, adds Schimoler, the same law of

economics governs all restaurants.

“If you make “The bar keeps geTTing a living in the restaurant business, raised – you goTTa geT you have to be beTTer and beTTer.” resigned to the fact that your customer will ultimately decide your fate.”

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America L ves Cleveland The accolades Cleveland chefs and restaurants have gathered in the past year

Rising star chefs Joe Horvath and Jennifer Plank gained the attention of the national publication Restaurant Hospitality for the sexy farm-to-table offerings dished up at Toast, their trendy Gordon Square restaurant.

A Men’s Journal travel feature titled “Visiting Cleveland, on Purpose” calls Cleveland “a pleasant surprise” thanks in no small part to the eats at Happy Dog, Melt and throughout Asiatown.

This past August, Travel Channel host Andrew Zimmern spent some time in Cleveland filming for an upcoming episode of Bizarre Foods America, which is slated to air in early 2014.

Jonathon Sawyer caught the attention of USA Today writer Larry Olmsted, who praised the Cleveland chef for his Tokyo and New York inspired noodle house, Noodlecat.

Olmsted was particularly impressed by Sawyer’s focus on sustainable ingredients, local food sourcing, and from-scratch preparation.

Eater, the national arbiter for all things delicious, devoted one of its patented Eater Heat Maps to a handful of hot new Cleveland restaurants. Among them were Vero Pizzeria, Pura Vida, SoHo, Spice Kitchen and Black Pig.

While Cleveland’s top restaurants and chefs garner most of the national spotlight, Huffington Post recently listed Cleveland’s Great American Rib Cook-Off as one of America’s Top 10 Memorial Day BBQs.

In an article titled “Cleveland’s Melt brings cheesy menu to Columbus,” the Columbus Dispatch chats with owner Matt Fish about his soon-to-open restaurant in that city’s Short North neighborhood.

The Detroit Free Press reported on Michael Symon’s ever-expanding burger empire, covering the Cleveland chef’s plans to bring a restaurant to metro Detroit before the end of the year.

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Once again, Chris Hodgson of Hodge’s restaurant and food truck fame found his way on the national stage, this time competing for the title of Next Food Network Star on the Food Network. This was Hodgson’s second appearance on the network, having competed on the second season of The Great Food Truck Race.

New York magazine devoted one of its “Five-Point Weekend Escape Plans” to Cleveland, directing hungry travelers to Bar Cento, Ginko and Greenhouse Tavern for some world-class eats.

In a Salon article that outlines the fate of traditional public markets, which are fast becoming a dying breed, the West Side Market gets special attention for bucking the global trend.

Cleveland’s Matt Fish and Melt Bar & Grilled garnered some love from Relish for serving one of America’s 10 Best Grilled Cheese Sandwiches noting, “Thin-sliced white bread and American cheese are things of the past.

Surprisingly, some of Cleveland’s tastiest treats can be found at some of the least expected places, at least according to Travel + Leisure Magazine, which touted First Energy Stadium as having some

Michael Symon’s third cookbook 5 in 5, cowritten by Scene dining editor Douglas Trattner, landed on the coveted New York Times Best Seller list, where it has remained ever since.

Cleveland-based food writer Michael Ruhlman was praised in the Washington Post for his updated edition of Charcuterie, which was co-written with Brian Polcyn. Special attention was given to the recipe and process for making guanciale, aka “face bacon.”

of America’s Best StadiumFood, thanks in large part to B Spot and Street Frites.

In a survey titled “50 States, 50 Pies,” Zagat named Bar Cento’s Sunnyside pizza as the best in the state thanks to its runny egg yolks on a cracker-thin crust.

Chris Hodgson made his way into the running for “The People’s Best New Chef: Great Lakes,” where he nabbed a nomination from Food & Wine Magazine for that magazine’s vote-driven popularity contest.

Eric Williams and Happy Dog earned special mention from Buffalo News food writer Andrew Galarneau, who spent considerable time in Cleveland covering the food scene for his newspaper back home.

When the early-stage nominations were handed out for this year’s James Beard Foundation Awards numerous Cleveland chefs made the cut. Among them were Michael Symon for Outstanding Chef, Jonathon Sawyer for Best Chef: Great Lakes, Zack Bruell for Best Chef: Great Lakes, and Matt Danko for Outstanding Pastry Chef.

Recently, the New York Post covered Cleveland’s vibrant food scene, calling out Ohio City’s West Side Market, Tremont’s Fahrenheit and Dante, and University Circle’s L’Albatros as a few of the reasons to book a trip.

Rocco Whalen caught the attention of West Coast foodies when the LA Weekly gave him props for serving one of the best dishes at the charity event L.A. Loves Alex’s Lemonade. The dish: chargrilled beef short ribs.

In a USA Today listing of the most popular room service dishes across the country, Renaissance Cleveland Hotel chef Brett Montgomery’s Cleveland Benedict ranks right up there. The twist on the classic features house-cured corned beef, poached egg and Amish butter hollandaise atop rye toast.

In some non-traditional food related news, MIT Technology review shared how the Cleveland Clinic is one of four institutions teaching the IBM supercomputer Watson the ins-and-outs of recipe creation.

Already Watson has created cayenneinfused papaya custard, which was found to be “quite good.”

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15527 Madison Ave | Lakewood, OH 44107 806 Literary | Cleveland, OH 44113

NEW

fall Preview Fall preview

season. joints. food.

A look at openings coming to Northeast Ohio in the coming months

By Douglas Trattner

RED, THE STEAKHOUSE For two locations that could be no more different from one another in terms of neighborhood and style of building, Red Beachwood and Red Downtown look and feel remarkably similar. Of course, that’s by no means a happy accident, says chef Jonathan Bennett.

“If you take Beachwood and flip it on itself, that’s downtown,” he says. “It’s pretty identical, all the way down to the booths and seating, plateware, recipes and menu.”

Like the suburban location, the space is divided in half, with the bar and lounge on one side and the dining room on the other.

Apart from a handful more tables in the dining room, the downtown space feels remarkably familiar.

“We have a great formula in Beachwood, and people love that formula,” adds Bennett, who along with principals Brad Friedlander, Peter Vauthy and Jon Gross also operate restaurants in Florida. “Other

than geography, we didn’t want to give diners a reason to pick one restaurant over the other.”

Due to open last spring, Red finally will open this week in the Volk’s building, a two-story property located on Prospect Avenue just east of Chinato. The polished space features the now-familiar design on display in both the Beachwood and South Beach locations of Red. Stacked ledge stone, glimmering red glass and deeply weathered steel form the building blocks of the space, bolstered by wood floors, black leather booths and shiny black granite bartop.

The one main difference between the two Cleveland locations is a second floor in the downtown space, which boasts a meeting room and party room for another 160 guests. In spring, a rooftop space will cater to another 100 guests.

Chef de cuisine Michael Polosa will

Opening November 4

oversee the 85-item a la carte menu that deftly blends some of the city’s best steaks and chops with seafood and pasta. The lengthy construction delays coupled with the fact that the new Red has a fully operating sister just 10 miles up the road means that little has been left to chance.

“We have a great opportunity here to let the staff experience what Red is supposed to feel like,” Bennett explains. “It should be a nice, smooth opening.”

It’s been 16 years since Moxie opened in Beachwood. As for why it’s taken this long for the restaurant group to plant a flag downtown, Bennett admits that, “When you’re dropping $2 million in a hole, you don’t want to be wrong. But there’s nothing better than the feel of a downtown restaurant. The lights outside, the activity on East Fourth Street. It feels so good that Cleveland has gotten and is getting the recognition it deserves.”

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fall Preview Opening Early December

the rail

While burger fans in the Cleveland area have grown accustomed to Michael Symon’s B Spot and Shawn Monday’s Flip Side, it won’t be long until Mike Mariola’s Rail becomes equally familiar.

By early December, the chef and restaurateur’s second Rail location will open in North Olmsted at the newly renovated Great Northern Mall. The first Rail opened a couple years back at Akron’s Summit Mall. And a third is slated to open in Canton this coming spring.

While slightly larger than the Akron shop at 140 seats thanks to a mezzanine, the North Olmstead spot will feature the same “stockyard chic” décor, with butcher shop-style white subway tile walls and a lengthy metal rail adorned with meat hooks. A custom built beer

tower with 24 taps will dispense only Ohio-brewed beers.

Whereas Symon’s B Spot dispenses six-ounce patties customblended by New York’s Pat LaFrieda, and Monday’s Flip Side cooks up seven ounces of grass-fed Ohio beef, Mariola’s Rail offers eight ounces of all-Ohio beef, much of which is grass-fed. The Rail, however, is the only spot to grill its burgers over an open flame, giving the patties a boost in the flavor department.

Those differences are precisely why Mariola has few concerns over the so-called burger saturation taking place in the local marketplace.

“Burgers are such a popular concept, and everyone has their own twist on the burger restaurant,” Mariola says. “It’s fun to go out and try different style burgers from different chefs.”

In addition to the Rail concepts, Mariola owns City Square Steakhouse in Wooster. He sold South Market Bistro, his first restaurant.

As for just how big the Rail might become, the chef says, “I want to keep growing the Rail brand regionally, but we want to pace ourselves.

I want to make sure that each new restaurant is as excellent as the last one.”

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fall Preview Dinner and Lunch Menus Feature Both Northern and Southern Italian Cuisine

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THE DON(FORCORLEONE PIZZA A LIMITED TIME) Red Sauce, Mozzarella Cheese, Cappacola Ham, Salami, Pepperoni, and Oregano

travalO Opening Early December Construction officially has building, with one used for begun in the former Piccadilly traditional and contemporary Fine Art Gallery next door to Neapolitan-style pizzas and the Dante. When completed by early other for wood-fired entrees like next year, the space will open roast chicken and baked pasta. as A Tavola (ah-TA-voh-la), chef Following the winning formula of Greenhouse Tavern Dante Boccuzzi’s fifth restaurant.

DC Pasta, A Tavola will specialize 2038 East 4th St., Cleveland, 216-443-0511, thegreenhousetavern.

He also operates Ginko, DC Pasta in homemade pastas and hearty and DBA in Akron.

Italian classics. On Saturday and Primarily a lunch and Sunday, the restaurant will go weekend brunch spot, the “brunch,” offering a mix of Italian restaurant also will provide some and American breakfast dishes. much needed private dining Small 5-inch and larger 12and overflow space for the ever- inch pizzas will be sold for eat-in busy Dante restaurant next or carryout, but Boccuzzi also door, which will be physically is toying with the idea of a cart connected. “I’m turning down that sells pizza by the inch, which so many weddings and private is cut to order off a lengthy pie. parties on weekend nights He also intends to launch a late because I can’t accommodate night pizza program. them,” Boccuzzi explains.

Chef Jay Plourde, with A Tavalo, which is what whom Boccuzzi worked in Italian mothers scream to their San Francisco, will head up the kids when it’s time to come to kitchen. the dinner table, will feature refurbished wood floors, exposed brick walls, tin ceilings and bespoke iron work. “I want it to feel old and rustic,” says the chef.

Two wood-burning ovens will be built into the side of the

Don Corleone

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fall Preview Opening November 1

EDWINS RESTAURANT “This is 10 years in the making,” says Brandon Chrostowski. “I’m just ready and excited to open.”

Equal parts upscale French restaurant and learning academy for previously incarcerated individuals reentering society, EDWINS seeks to go where no similarly themed reentry program has gone before.

“There’s a history to this type of program but nobody has tried it at this level because they don’t think it’s possible,” explains Chrostowski, who carries the title of Founder and GM. “Most keep the students back in the kitchen.”

For weeks now, this current class of students has been receiving intensive training in not only food preparation, food service and hospitality, but also personal finance, housing and medical assistance.

By the time they graduate in six months, each will have touched every aspect of the restaurant, from pastry and garde manger to host and server.

“The goal is to give these people a second chance, to build their confidence, and help make them a better person,” adds Chrostowski.

“But also to help plug the labor gap in this city for hospitality positions.”

The former Grotto space at Shaker Square has been warmed up considerably, giving it a soft Parisian feel. While billed as a “white tablecloth restaurant,” EDWINS is by no means meant to come across as a stiff French bistro. Servers will dress in crisp blue jeans, a dark tuxedo vest and lavender dress shirt.

Chef Gilbert Brenot, a native of France, has cooked all over the world and Cleveland, most recently as chef and owner of Maxi’s in Little Italy for the past 13 years. His experience in both traditional and nouvelle French cuisine will serve him well when preparing both classic and contemporary French dishes like salade Niçoise, frog legs with garlic butter, steak tartar, braised rabbit, and steak au poivre. A rolling cheese cart will offer a choice of dozens of fine artisan selections.

EDWINS will be open for dinner Monday through Saturday, with lunch service being added down the road.

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Now Open & Coming Soon

nt a r u sta eek? e r A er w nd? p levela In C

There’s still plenty of room in the Cleveland food landscape for new restaurants. Here’s proof.

By Douglas TraTTner

That’s the most typical reaction I get after telling a new acquaintance what I do for a living. Surely there can’t be enough content to fill the pages of the Scene dining section week in and week out, they presume.

Faithful followers of the local dining scene don’t need me to tell them how dynamic and ever-shifting the restaurant biz is. Each year, a fresh crop of new eateries seems to spring forth from a bottomless well, eager to fill the slots left bare by others that failed to survive in an increasingly trend conscious landscape.

As one year winds down and another waits in the wings for its entrance, we thought we’d do a little recap of the newcomers that arrived over the past 12 months or so – and look ahead to what’s currently waiting on deck.

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In Lakewood, Eddie Cerino’s Casual Italian, Eric Williams’ El Carnicero, Dan Deagan’s Humble Wine Bar and Izzy Schachner’s StrEAT Burger all opened.

Doug Katz managed to open not one but three (four if you count the lounge) new restaurants in the last year, namely Katz Club Diner in Cleveland Heights and Provenance and Provenance Café in the Cleveland Museum of Art. The Flats began its restaurant revival in earnest with three near-simultaneous openings: Willeyville, Lago and Ken Stewart’s East Bank.

ML Tavern

Playhouse Square continues to maintain a full head of steam by welcoming Zack Bruell’s Dynomite, Seth Bromberg’s District and Driftwood Catering’s Cibreo, while just down the road Stonetown, Barroco Grill and the Cleveland Chop joined the downtown crowd.

Ohio City saw the arrival of Black Pig and Town Hall, Detroit Shoreway snagged Toast, and Tremont scored with Press Wine Bar. Just across the bridge, Luca Italian Restaurant filled the old Ponte Vecchio space.

Chefs Brian Okin and Adam Bostwick brought a little taste of downtown to Broadview Heights with their crowd pleasing gastro-bistro Cork & Cleaver.

Meanwhile, down in Valley View, Demetrios Atheneos opened up a gastropub of his own called Oak Barrel.

Ethnic eateries of all stripes continue to multiply around town, with the Caribbean themed Callaloo Cafe and Bar opening on Waterloo, Saaj Lebanese Grill debuting in Solon, Latin-fueled Arepazo y Pupuseria launching in Fairview Park, and two new Vietnamese joints, Ninh Kieu in Asian Town Center and Pho & Rice on Coventry, coming online.

Out in the far east ‘burbs, ML Tavern from Hyde Park opened in Moreland Hills, Cedar Creek Grille opened in Beachwood, Flip Side flipped on the lights in Chagrin Falls, and Melt Bar and Grilled brought comfort food to the shores of Mentor.

Way out west, Parker’s Grille and Tavern opened in Avon and Bistro 83 brought some much-needed relief to North Ridgeville.

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Coming Soon Like ordering dessert at the start of a meal, we can’t help but look ahead when it comes to new restaurants on the horizon.

In the “Fall Preview” story, we described four high profile projects that have us eager to secure seats in the coming weeks and months. But those are far from the only projects that we’re keenly following.

LET US UR CATER YNOT EVE

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Bringing The Best Of Mediterranean Cuisine To Greater Cleveland

Peachtree Southern Kitchen Light Bistro chef and owner Matt Mathlage, along with his business partner Eric Dietrich, will open a Southern-styled restaurant in Hudson called Peachtree Southern Kitchen.

Coquette Patisserie in University Circle.

The Butcher & the Brewer Tremont Taphouse principals Jason Workman, Chris Lieb and Jeff Leonard are opening The Butcher & the Brewer, a restaurant, brewery and full-service butcher shop in the former Dredger’s Union space on East Fourth Street.

XO Zdenko Zovkic will export his successful XO Prime Steaks concept from downtown to Pepper Pike with the opening of his first satellite spot in the former Marbella space.

Former City Grill Chef Cory Hess is currently at work transforming the former City Grill space in Detroit Shoreway into an as-yet-unnamed neighborhood- friendly gastropub.

Cleveland Pickle Josh Kabat will expand his wildly popular Cleveland Pickle sandwich concept by opening a second location in Lakewood.

Crop Rocks Chef Steve Schimoler has more than a few balls in the air, but we’re eagerly following the unique music-focused Crop Rocks project in North Collinwood.

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440-888-8899

20

FLAVOR

Coquette Patisserie Fans of pastry chef Britt Culey will soon be able to enjoy a glass of Champagne and a small plate at the soon-to-open

On the Rise Gigi’s on Fairmount, a small wine café, is gearing up for a November opening by On the Rise in Cleveland Heights.

Joey’s Joey’s Italian Restaurant, which was booted from its longtime Chagrin Falls spot, will reopen on Lee Road in Cleveland Heights.

Sweet Melissa, Sweet Melissa, a Rocky River institution-in-themaking, will cross the river and open a second spot near John Carroll University.

Kafeteria, Zack Bruell hopes to reinvent the traditional cafeteria concept with his Kafeteria, which will take over the third floor of 200 Public Square.

The Hofbräuhaus The Hofbräuhaus, a giant beer hall and restaurant with ties back to the historic Munich, Germany, based original, is on the drawing board for a summer 2014 opening in Playhouse Square.

FLAVOR 21

22

FLAVOR

flavor trends

Sell MaSon Jar glaSSES

buy, sell, or hold

Have you ever actually tried drinking out of a Mason jar? They’re the original Dribble cup. There’s a reason drinking glasses don’t have threaded rims: because those wide threads, while great for forming a tight seal with the lid and band of the jar, do not form one with a human’s lips. And don’t think about popping a straw into the glass – that’s just tacky.

Hold

Put an Egg on It!

It used to be that eggs were for breakfast – plain and simple. Now they come on every other dish in town, from hamburgers and tamales to pizza and asparagus. Fried eggs are now a required addition to the Sides portion of most menus because, apparently, runny eggs go on absolutely everything. We respectfully disagree.

nEaPolItan-StylE PIzza

Traditionally built for one, these thin, crisp and sparingly topped pies have next to nothing in common with thick, doughy delivery pizza or floppy, cheeseshellacked New York-style pie. Add in the flavors of real wood, the blistered char that comes from hellish heat, and the gentle touch of a skilled pizzaiolo, and you have the makings of an undying and welcome trend. In the wrong hands, it’s a waste of perfectly good wood.

Buy

By Douglas TraTTner

Here are some local dining trends that we can’t get enough of, can’t get away from, or are enjoying just fine, thanks.

Sell

MMM DonutS

Have a warm donut straight from the bubbly cauldron of oil and you’ll forever turn your powdered sugar-covered nose up at every box of cold dough pucks from here to eternity. Donuts are best enjoyed hot, fresh and by the dozen, making local donut shops – of which we are sorely lacking – an absolute must for any respectable neighborhood.

Sell

I SMEll Bacon

We get it – bacon tastes gooooood. It tastes good with eggs, it tastes good on donuts, it tastes good in milkshakes, and it tastes good wrapped around a hot dog and submerged in fryer grease. You know when bacon doesn’t taste good? When you eat it every day for a week. The reason we fell in love with bacon in the first place was because it was a rare and special treat. How quaint.

Buy

rEal BBQ

Those so-called “fall-off-the-bone” ribs sold at your neighborhood tavern do not qualify as barbecue. They have been boiled or steamed into submission before receiving a last-minute blast on the grill. In most hands, those all-in-one, wood pellet-fed electrical units aren’t much better. Apart from two or three decent barbecue joints in all of Northeast Ohio, the BBQ scene here is reliably depressing.

Buy

KorEan BBQ

Sell

When Seoul Hot Pot closed earlier this year, Cleveland lost its only true Korean barbecue joint. Sitting around the grill tables here with friends while grilling up marinated slices of beef short rib was one of the most enjoyable dining experiences in town. Now that’s gone, and all we have in its wake are those sad little tabletop units at other Korean restaurants that steam the meat into tough and chewy strands.

Extravagant BurgErS

Foie gras is not a topping. Lobster is not a topping. Gold leaf, for the love of jeebus, is not a topping. Let’s be frank here; nobody is buying your $50 hamburgers. They are on the menu solely so media twits like us will cover them, your restaurant, and most important, you.

Runny eggs? Now those are toppings.

Hold

taco tuESDay

If it’s Tuesday, it must be tacos. Tacos here, tacos there, tacos just about everywhere. A dollop of meat and veg wrapped in starch, tacos are the perfect meal – except when they’re not. If you sell a tablespoon of mystery meat in a cold, thick flour tortilla, we don’t care how cheap the taco is, it’s inedible.

Expend the extra effort to warm your flour, or crunchy corn, or better still, soft corn shell and we’ll gladly pay you Tuesday for a dozen tacos today.

FLAVOR 23

NEIGHBORHOOD FAVORITES DETROIT SHOREWAY

You can’t really call the Detroit Shoreway neighborhood up and coming anymore. It’s here, with enough restaurants and entertainment options to keep just about anybody happy and well fed.

For a little taste of Puerto Rican, hit the lovable and familyrun Rincon Crillo (6504 Detroit Ave., 216-939-0992), where intoxicating scents of cumin, garlic and braised beef fill the air.

Pop into the spare restaurant for its famous jibarito sandwich, a meaty sandwich served on plantains.

My Perfect meal, my favorite Neighborhood A tasting menu of our favorite bites in Cleveland’s best dining districts

As Cleveland’s oldest Vietnamese restaurant, Minh Anh (5428 Detroit Ave., 216-961-9671, minh-anh.com) has been serving pho longer than any place in this town. Pair the soup with a lotus root salad with shrimp and chopped peanuts, and a shrimp spring roll with peanut sauce. You’re welcome.

Switch gears with a stop at the all-American Happy Dog (5801 Detroit Ave., 216-651-9474), where hot dogs and beer are the name of the game. Choose from 50 gourmet toppers for that quarter-pound, all-beef weenie. While you’re at it, order some crispy tots.

When it comes to dessert in Gordon Square, Sweet Moses Soda Fountain (6800 Detroit Ave., 216-651-2202) enjoys a delicious monopoly. Take in the gleaming retro vibe while enjoying the Mount Caramel sundae, constructed with vanilla ice cream, salted pistachios, warm caramel, candy sprinkles, whipped cream and, or course, a cherry on top.

LAKEWOOD Long the burger and chicken wing capital of the region, Lakewood has blossomed into a bona fide “ville de vittles.”

You can never go wrong with happy hour at Pier W (12700 Lake Ave., 216-228-2250), which also happens to offers some of the best views of Lake Erie in Cleveland. Try the braised Angus beef short rib pierogies with jus. The pillowy pockets are sure to warm your soul.

Keep the warming trend going with a pitstop at Humble Wine Bar (15400 Detroit Ave., 216-767-5977), where the pizza oven takes center stage. The spicy sopressata pie comes topped with tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella on a toothsome crust.

If you can score a seat, a visit to Melt Bar and Grilled (14718 Detroit Ave., 216226-3699) is well worth your time. While

busy as ever, it’s worth it to check out the location that started it all. The chorizo and potato grilled cheese sandwich is more than worth the wait.

Head over to Deagan’s Kitchen and Bar (14810 Detroit Ave., 216-767-5775), a gastropub with an array of savory small plates. The shaved Brussels sprouts with bacon, walnuts and smoked blue cheese is downright dreamy.

If it’s spice you seek, India Garden (18405 Detroit Road, 216-221-0676) will set you straight. The vegetarian-friendly malai kofta, with a side order of garlic naan, is the Indian equivalent of comfort food.

Vegan, organic and local are the calling cards of the cozy The Root Café (15118

Detroit Ave., 216-226-4401). Cap off the night with a tasty molasses cookie paired with a cup of fragrant coffee.

TREMONT

Tremont was the birthplace of the dining revolution that has since unfolded across Northeast Ohio. In the years since Lola and Fat Cats opened their doors to a wary public, the neighborhood continues to offer some of the city’s best eats.

Lola, which is now downtown, has been replaced by Lolita (900 Literary Rd., 216-771-5652), a swap locals are more than happy to accept. Kick off your feast with a half order of the famous mac and cheese, enriched with goat cheese, chicken and rosemary.

Fat Cats (2061 West 10th St., 216-579-0200), a neighborhood pioneer, feels as fresh today as it did when it opened all those years ago. Combine views of the downtown skyline with Korean-style barbecued ribs with fries and cabbage salad.

As one of Cleveland’s premiere chefs, Dante Boccuzzi will treat you right at his eponymous restaurant, Dante (2247 Professor Ave., 216-274-1200). Dine inside a bank vault — or better yet, right inside the kitchen. Either way, load up on some of the city’s best pasta, polenta and risotto.

Off the beaten Tremont path, Tremont Taphouse (2572 Scranton Rd., 216-298-4451) pairs killer suds with great gastro fare. You won’t regret ordering the beer-steamed mussels and fries, tossed with blue cheese, bacon, shallots and garlic.

Contemporary Asian is the bill of fare at Bac (2661 West 14th St., 216-938-8960). We’re not exactly sure what cuisine fried ice cream falls under, but that doesn’t stop us from ordering it for dessert.

LITTLE ITALY

Stroll along Mayfield Road in Little Italy and you’ll pass by restaurant after restaurant after restaurant. Sure, most of them serve Italian food, but that doesn’t mean they’re all the same.

Primo Vino (12511 Mayfield Rd., 216-229-3334) has been here since time immemorial. From the quirky basement layout to the menu of Italian chestnuts, this place is a Cleveland institution that warrants a visit. We recommend dropping in for a glass of vino and stuffed sweet peppers.

The charming Mia Bella (12200 Mayfield Rd., 216-795-2355), tucked into a stately corner perch, has a way with gnocchi. Their’s pairs the pillowy potato dumplings with kalamata olives, onion, peppers, tomatoes, shallots and roasted garlic.

Survey a dozen locals about their favorite pizza and more than half will say Mama Santa’s (12305 Mayfield Rd., 216-421-2159). If you’ve never tried it, dig into a slice of the small pizza with pepperoni and pepperoncini; it’s a great first stop.

Veer off Mayfield Road to find Michaelangelo’s (2198 Murray Hill, 216-7210300), a well-appointed restaurant that offers very different feel from others on the main drag. We adore the aragosta con capesante e burro di tartufo – also known as a lobster and scallop martini with cognac and truffle honey butter.

Cannoli. End of story. Hit up Corbo’s Bakery (12200 Mayfield Road, 216-421-8181) for a taste of a true Italian classic.

NEIGHBORHOOD FAVORITES

DOWNTOWN

It’s tough to do downtown justice in a few short words.

Along with plenty of fine dining, there are fashionable lunch spots and notable dives. Cleveland has earned a reputation as a progressive food town, thanks in no small part to the diversity and quality that’s available to downtown diners.

If it’s lunch time, pop into the bright and sophisticated Pura Vida (170 Euclid Ave., 216-987-0100), where chef Brant Evans serves up the World’s Best Cobb Salad. That might sound hyperbolic, but dive into this mélange of crisp greens, house-roasted turkey, warm and crisp bacon, hard-cooked eggs, sharp cheddar, roasted tomatoes and shaved red onion and taste for yourself.

No dining trip through downtown would be complete without a visit to Lola (2058 E. 4th St., 216-6215652), Michael Symon’s flagship restaurant. Symon manages to improve lobster by pairing it with crème fraiche, citrus, mint and

26

FLAVOR

almond. It’s an appetizer for the ages.

Swing by the eco-friendly Greenhouse Tavern (2038 E. 4th St., 216-339-4302), where chef Jonathon Sawyer has elevated the humble chicken wing to a thing of gastronomic beauty. Thanks to some multi-step machinations, the wings are like none other.

They’re garnished – not sauced – with roasted jalapeno, lemon juice, scallion and garlic.

Chicken liver fans know where to find every great liver dish in town.

Cowell & Hubbard (1305 Euclid Ave., 216-479-0555) is on that list thanks to its liver entree, which pairs the richly flavored meat with pickled cabbage, crisp fingerling potatoes, Dijon mustard sauce, and pomegranate gastrique.

There’s no shortage of great duck confit dishes out there, but when we dug into the goose confit at District (1350 Euclid Ave., 216858-1000), we knew it would be difficult to go back. American

goose is cooked low and slow before being blasted in a hot oven to crisp up the skin. It is served with

OHIO CITY

A new restaurant seems to sprout up in Ohio City every other week. But while there’s no shortage of tasty options in this effervescent ‘hood, there are some stand-outs. a red wine cranberry reduction to cut the richness.

Chef Karen Small was on the leading edge of the farm-to-table movement, making Flying Fig (2523 Market Ave., 216-241-4243) necessary eating for all locavores.

The beet salad has made more converts out of beet-averse diners with its pairing of baby pickled beets, whipped farmstead cheese, soft-cooked egg and honey vinaigrette.

Cozy up to the bar at the big, beautiful Crop Bistro (2537 Lorain Ave., 216-696-2767), where snacks

like the deviled eggs, Cherry Bombs and crispy pork belly with griddle corn cakes pair perfectly with a fall themed cocktail.

SOHO Kitchen (1889 West 25th St., 216-298-0909) brought a modern taste of the South to the shores of Ohio City. To taste how delicious that cuisine can be, order up a bowl of the shrimp and grits, a soulsatisfying dish that puts all other comfort food to shame.

If it’s brunch time, you must fight your way into Le Petit Triangle Café (1881 Fulton Rd., 216-281-1881) for a smoked salmon and cream cheese omelet or a savory ham and brie crepe.

Late night eats in Ohio City got a huge boost when Bogtrotters Doorstep (1848 West 25th St., 216-861-5515) opened by Old Angle Tavern. Open til 3 a.m. on weekends, this joint does a brisk business in meaty Philly sandwiches ladled with jus, topped with crushed chips, and dripping with flavor.

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FLAVOR 27

NEIGHBORHOOD FAVORITES

WEST SUBURBS

Sure, the far-west ’burbs don’t offer the same quantity of fine restaurants that you’ll find in the city, but that doesn’t mean you can’t score a great meal.

87 West at Crocker Park (287 Crocker Pk., Westlake, 440-2502334) is a great place to kick off a night on the town. Despite the mall setting, the atmosphere is surprisingly urbane, with floorto-ceiling windows and great wine by the glass. Share a wild mushroom flatbread topped with wild mushrooms, ricotta, fresh mozzarella, roasted garlic aioli and arugula. ’Stino da Napoli (19070 Old Detroit Rd,, Rocky River, 440-3314-3944) has been quietly turning out topnotch Italian fare for years. Try the gnocchi alla Napoletana, housemade potato dumplings served in a light tomato sauce with mozzarella, ricotta and Parmigiano. It will forever spoil all other versions of gnocchi.

Steak lovers on the far west side lucked out when Strip, a Steak

28

FLAVOR

House (36840 Detroit Rd., Avon, 440-934-9900) opened up in an old barn. While unconventional to say the least, meaty chops like the 22-ounce, bone-in rib eye will make a fan out of anybody.

If romance is on your mind, Nemo Grille (36976 Detroit Rd., Avon, 440-934-0061) makes for a great date night. Housed in an 1850s farmhouse, the charming spot also happens to serve exquisite food, like the fat seared diver scallops, always seasonally prepared.

Decidedly less upscale, but no less adored, Bubba’s Q (820 Center Rd., Avon, 440-937-7859, bubbasqdining.com) is the best westside spot for barbecue. Owner and former Cleveland Browns player Al “Bubba” Baker takes his food seriously, turning out gems

CHAGRIN FALLS

The namesake falls in this picture-perfect little village always warrant a visit. So too do a number of reliable old (and new) haunts that turn out reliably satisfying fare in a variety of settings. like slow-smoked ribs, pulled pork and smoked brisket from his beefy wood smokers.

There’s something special about the way Burntwood Tavern (504 E. Washington St., 440-318-1560) makes diners feel. Maybe it’s the rustic décor, or perhaps it’s casual but satisfying grub like the dryrubbed and smoked pork “wings,” a tasty twist on the classic.

As cherished as the namesake falls, Rick’s Café (86 North Main St., 440-247-7666) is proof that fancy doesn’t rule the roost in this town. While the tender baby back ribs are the stuff of legends, we prefer the jerk-spiced burger with banana ketchup, a uniquely flavored handful.

Gamekeeper’s Tavern (87 West St., 440-247-7744) has been around forever – and for good reason.

Enjoying a fireside meal of venison and veal meatballs with housemade marinara and Romano cheese is the epitome of comfort in winter, while the expansive patio makes summer all the more enjoyable.

Dave’s Cosmic Subs (9 River St., 440-247-9117) fans make a pilgrimage to the Chagrin Falls spot that started it all. Here you’ll find rock and roll memorabilia and what many say is the best version of the Original Dave’s Cosmic Sub, loaded with pepperoni, Genoa salami, prosciutto, lettuce, tomato, banana peppers, onions, fresh

garlic, herbs, provolone and Dave’s “cosmic” sauce.

Dessert? Duh. Hit Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream (67 North Main St., 440247-2064), one of only a handful of scoop shops dedicated to serving some of the best ice cream on the planet. Pistachio and honey, salty caramel, or whiskey and pecans, there is no wrong move here.

HUDSON

Despite its small size and far-flung locale, this little village packs a tasty punch.

We like to start at North End Market (7542 Darrow Rd., 330656-1238), where a dizzying array of wine and beer is paired with seasonal small plates and entrees in an unconventional retail setting.

If you see a bottle you like in the retail shop, grab it and take it into the restaurant for a $10 additional corking fee.

Downtown 140 (140 North Main St., 330-655-2940) ups the elegance factor thanks to its cozy subterranean setting. We love the creamy baked camembert with fig jam and the seasonal preparation of foie gras.

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FLAVOR 29

NEIGHBORHOOD FAVORITES

Thanks to chef and owner Shawn Monday, One Red Door (49 Village Way, 330-342-3667) continues to attract foodies from far afield. For a flavor packed snack, order up the roasted date stuffed with chorizo and manchego, wrapped in bacon and served with smoked tomato.

The approachable and attractive Rosewood Grill (36 East Streetsboro Rd., 330-656-2100) quickly earned its place among Hudson mainstays thanks to quality, execution and value.

Because Rosewood is a member of Hospitality Restaurants (think Cabin Club and Delmonico’s), diners can count on quality steaks and chops.

In the market for fresh, healthy and light? Hit the cheery little Nosh Eatery (5929 Darrow Rd., 330-650-6674) for a tasty soup, salad or sandwich. A favorite is the grilled chicken salad sandwich with grapes, Spanish almonds, sundried cherries and tarragon aioli on multi-grain bread.

UNIVERSITY CIRCLE

become wildly popular for any number of reasons, but one of them is the “smashed and grilled” burgers topped with American cheese, lettuce, tomato and fried onion “frizzles.” Guess what? You don’t have to go to Ohio City to scarf one down.

L’Albatros (11401 Bellflower Rd., 216-791-7880), one in Zack Bruell’s growing portfolio of eateries, is as close to dining perfection as one can find in Cleveland. Settle in for a glass of crisp white wine, garlicky escargots, and fine artisan cheeses.

ABC the Tavern (11434 Uptown Ave., 216-721-1511) in Ohio City

30

FLAVOR

CLEVELAND HEIGHTS

Like the people who live there, Cleveland Heights is diverse when it comes to its menu of food options.

From old school to new, the options run the gamut from refurbished diner to loud and lively Southwest.

The drop-dead gorgeous Club Isabella (2175 Cornell Rd., 216-2291111) woos newcomers first with the old-meets-new setting and second with the inventive cuisine of chefowner Fabio Mota. For an autumn stunner of a dish, order the ciderbraised pork shank sided by coriander scented couscous and an apple cider reduction.

The bustling Lopez Southwest Kitchen (2196 Lee Rd., 216-9329000) is the ideal place to kick start a night on Lee thanks to killer margaritas and delicious snacks like chips and guac, and sweet and spicy calamari.

lunch buffet, and the one served at Indian Flame (11623 Euclid Ave., 216-791-5555) is reliably consistent.

Nighttown (12387 Cedar Rd., 216795-0530) might be best knows as a venue for live music, but there are noteworthy things happening

As the cultural epicenter of Greater Cleveland, University Circle is surprisingly light when it comes to top-notch dining options – a situation made worse by the closures of Sergio’s and Accent. But slowly, steadily that is changing.

We’re suckers for a great Indian If you’re already at the Cleveland Museum of Art, then you have no reason to bypass the two new restaurants there, Provenance and Provenance Café (11150 East Blvd., 216-421-7350). The first is an elegant fine dining destination while the latter is a quick-serve but remarkably refreshing café.

With seven or eight vegetarian and meat dishes, not counting rice, breads and chutneys, nobody’s leaving this joint hungry.

in the kitchen too. A new chef has elevated classic dishes like the Dublin Lawyer, while introducing fresh new dishes like fish tacos.

Pay a visit to Rockefeller’s (3099 Mayfield Rd., 216-321-0477) and you’ll be bowled over by the space, a former bank that feels more like a castle than a retail establishment. Chef Jill Vedaa’s addictive calamari with coconut milk glaze has become required eating for all who dine here.

You can’t mention Coventry without mentioning Tommy’s (1824 Coventry Road, 216-321-7757), a Cleveland Heights institution.

While rightly known for its vegetarian fare, Tommy’s makes a mean meat pie, especially the Aunt Gay. Boasting one of the few woodburning ovens on this side of town, Vero Bistro (12421 Cedar Rd., 216229-8383) turns out some of the best Neapolitan-style pizza in the Heights. An airy, chewy outer crust blistered with char gives way to a thin, crisp inner crust supporting a few choice ingredients.

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FLAVOR 31

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RISING STAR

Jill Vedaa In the early 20th century, John D. Rockefeller became the world’s richest man by being a ruthless competitor who never settled on second place. In the kitchen of Rockefeller’s restaurant, located in a building once owned by that famed industrialist, executive chef Jill Vedaa seems to be channeling some of that selfassured behavior. “I am supercompetitive,” admits Vedaa.

The chef recalls how her mother made cooking fun by blending the work with music.

“We would cook together and dance around the kitchen to Motown,” she says. “I still love to blast some Aretha when I›m prepping.”

When they weren’t toiling in the kitchen, they were out exploring the city’s awakening restaurant scene. “I remember having a burger and a chocolate Coke at Heck’s Café,” she recalls.

“It just felt like a different world.”

After high school, Vedaa enrolled at Cleveland State University, but soon realized that sorority life was not for her. What was the right fit, she quickly discovered, was the hospitality industry. “I started working at Bohemia (now Lolita), making lots of money and having fun,” she says. “It was a better career choice for me.”

At Bohemia, Vedaa worked every position in the front of the house. “This is where I fell in love with the business,” she says.

From there, she expanded her knowledge base by accepting a kitchen position at the legendary KeKa in Ohio City, where she soaked up the skills of chef-owner Mark Shary like a sponge.

Through a friend, Vedaa met an aspiring young chef named Michael Symon, who at the time was cooking at the Caxton Café in downtown Cleveland.

Symon invited her to work at a

new restaurant he was opening called Lola, coincidentally the same place where she started.

“This job blew my mind,” she says. “It was non-stop busy, and you either kept up or drowned.”

From there, Vedaa went back to another old stomping ground—Flying Fig, which was in the former home of KeKa. She worked alongside chef and owner Karen Small for four years as the executive sous chef.

“The way she thinks about food inspired me to discover the chef I am today,” Vedaa says of Small.

Following a relatively brief stint as executive chef at Wine Bar in Rocky River, where the chef felt creatively restrained, and a brief tenure as a wine rep for Wine Trends, Vedaa finally found a more permanent home.

A friend alerted Vedaa that a soon-to-open restaurant had lost its chef before opening day. That restaurant was Rockefeller›s in Cleveland Heights.

“I met with [owner] Michael [Adams] and just loved the space,” Vedaa explains. “He had never opened a restaurant before, and he offered me carte blanche. I soon signed on.”

Unlike previous positions where the chef was bound by somebody else›s rules, here Adams gives her unfettered freedom to do as she sees fit.

That autonomy translates into a menu that changes quarterly, with just a handful of staple items that stay put.

The chef also pens the restaurant’s “music friendly” bar menu that›s served in the lounge.

Chef Small’s farm-to-table lessons continue to guide Vedaa and shape the menus at Rockefeller’s. “Knowing where your food comes from and how it›s been handled is so important,” explains Vedaa.

Culinary Trailblazer

RicaRdo Sandoval Some of the most admirable culinary trailblazers happen to be those you don’t read about every day in the press. While some “celebrity chefs” are busy promoting themselves to anybody who will listen, others simply put their heads down and do the hard work of running a business. Success for these people isn’t a reality food show, product endorsement or spread in a glossy magazine: It’s satisfied customers.

Ricardo Sandoval is one such trailblazer. The serial restaurateur is behind three popular and unique restaurant concepts on opposite ends of town: Fat Cats, Lava Lounge, and Felice Urban Café. And lest you believe that he’s simply a figurehead, Sandoval reminds us, “I am the owner, chef and entrepreneur all in one.”

Born in Cleveland and raised in Rocky River, Sandoval had his first taste of the hospitality business in a dish room, where he worked as a teen. He ended up at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas, but didn’t finish.

“Instead of finishing my degree in Vegas, I opened D’Agnese Italian Restaurant in Broadview Heights,” says Sandoval. That was way back in 1989, and he hasn’t stopped since.

Michael Symon often gets credit for kick-starting the Tremont culinary revolution – and he deserves every bit of it – but he wasn’t alone in doing so. Just months after Lola Bistro opened, Sandoval opened Fat Cats down the road. Fahrenheit wouldn’t open for another five years.

“I definitely wanted to be part of the renaissance of

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Tremont,” he explains. “The balance of people in various socioeconomic backgrounds, artists, young professionals, generations of families, proximity to downtown and history: It’s the crown-jewel neighborhood of Cleveland.”

Along with partner Tim 17105 Grovewood Avenue • Cleveland Verhiley, Sandoval purchased a 100-year-old home and set 216 531 4900 | grovewoodtavern.com about transforming it into Fat Cats, one of Cleveland’s hippest bistros. In addition to being an urban pioneer, Sandoval also 10/30/13 was one of Cleveland’s earliest GWT_0010_ad_3.5572x4.75_scene_flavor.indd 1 farm-to-table proponents.

Having a case of Tremont Fever, Sandoval purchased another building two years later.

Along with partner Jack Anfang, they converted the former Trotters into Lava Lounge.

Located on the south end of Tremont. Now, 14 years later, it’s still going strong.

That success led Margaret When it comes to ste Mueller, an eastside personality, ak We got them all! Bo s, to approach Sandoval about neand Boneless. steak in s are her plans to convert a 1920s cut fresh daily By our home on Larchmere Boulevard oWn in-house Butch er. into a restaurant. “She was We invite you to co me the youngest 84-year-old and enjoy our great entrepreneur I have ever met,” steaks at great pr ices. he says. “Between the space and her passion, I immediately said yes.”

“I wanted a place serving Monday’s Spanish and Mediterranean PriMe rib food in a fun setting. Not a place Lover’s like your grandmother’s house.”

Unlike many of his younger sPeciaL! colleagues, Sandoval can still be $ found working the lines at his eateries. Like some of his most “seconds on us” successful contemporaries, he somehow manages to be everywhere at once. That’s a good quality to have if and when the next restaurant bug bites Sandoval.

1:23 PM

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RISING STAR RISING STAR

Becca RitteRspach

Eat... Drink... Get Jolly!

5x BBQ State Champions As seen on Brewery Coming Soon!

Case Western

11111 Euclid Ave. | Cleveland / 216-368-0090 34

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This Sugar Queen’s story begins in Medina, where the young Ritterspach grew up the middle child between two brothers, making her the quintessential tomboy. With most of her grandparents, aunts and uncles all living just a few houses away, Ritterspach learned family values and hard work at an early age.

“Literally and figuratively, we’re a very close family.” Her youth is also when she developed many of the food memories that stay with her to this day. “I know that I will never ever make a pie as good as my mom. I’ve accepted that. And my Grandma Ritterspach has the most amazing recipe for soft chocolate cookies. It’s a recipe I still use to this day.”

Ritterspach graduated from Ohio State University with a B.A. in psychology and a minor in disability studies. Despite the degree and an aptitude for the work, Ritterspach knew that she was destined to pursue another path. “I have always been so drawn to the aesthetics of the pastry world,” she says.

With her mind made up, Ritterspach approached Dawn Verwold, the owner of Medina’s upscale bakery Crème de la Crème. She was hired as an apprentice and her career in pastry officially began. “I learned the basics of pastry production, and that ‘the difference is in the details,’” says Ritterspach.

Following her apprenticeship, the budding pastry chef spent a year attending classes at Western Reserve School of Cooking, where she connected with Courtney Bonning. Before long, the pair was running a small pastry shop in Detroit Shoreway, Bonbon Bake Shop. “Within a year and a half we opened Bonbon Pastry & Cafe in Ohio City, where I was the bakery manager,” she says.

As Bonbon’s popularity expanded, so too did the young chef’s lead-

ership skills. “It was my first time leading others in pastry production,” she says. “It really clicked well with me. Knowledge is meant to be spread.”

Her work at the Ohio City bakery landed her and her partner in the national spotlight with an appearance on Cupcake Wars. The two travelled to Los Angeles where they competed—and won—before returning home, where they had to keep the good news a secret.

“When the show finally aired, we threw a viewing party for our family and friends at ABC Tavern,” says Ritterspach. “The place exploded when the results were announced that we won. It was one of the most fun nights of my life.”

In search of a new adventure, Ritterspach flew the coop at Bonbon and accepted a pastry chef position at Luxe Kitchen & Lounge in Gordon Square. Since starting in April, Ritterspach has reinvented that restaurant’s dessert menu, adding items like candied ginger cheesecake with blood orange and a lavender-scented strawberry shortcake.

As if that wasn’t enough to keep her busy, she recently accepted a second job as Great Lakes Brewing Company’s first ever pastry chef. “I love to bake with beer just as much as I like to drink it,” admits Ritterspach. Diners will now find a more beer-focused dessert roster, with unique items like citrus and spice carrot cake made with Commodore Perry IPA, and a dark chocolate brownie made with Edmund Fitzgerald Porter, drizzled with salted caramel and topped with Mitchell’s Peanut Butter Chocolate Chunk ice cream.

Despite being surrounded by sweets all day, the 28-year-old pasty chef says she never tires of ice cream. “Ice cream is my vice, and I love Mason’s Creamery,” she says.

NothiNg tastes Better thaN Mitchell’s chocolates For Christmas For aChanukah Why wait for holiday?For Valentine’s Day Every Day

2285 Lee Road · 216.932.3200 www.mitchellschocolates.com www.facebook.com/MitchellsChocolates

RISING STAR

Lindsey Auten Even if you haven’t heard of her, you likely have consumed one of her decadent desserts at Crop Bistro (2537 Lorain Ave., 216-696-2767, cropbistro.com) in Ohio City, where she’s been for two years. But the road to Crop wasn’t as well defined as a cake recipe.

The 25-year-old Middleburg Heights native was unsure of her future after graduating from Olmsted Falls High School. “I didn’t know what I wanted to do, but I didn’t want to spend the next four to six years — and thousands of dollars — trying to figure it out,” she says. Upon graduation she jumped into the massage world, attaining her massage therapy license. But that wasn’t the answer. After some soul searching, Auten decided to focus on her passion for cooking, which led her to Pittsburgh’s Pennsylvania Culinary Institute. After graduating with honors in 2010, Auten turned her externship at the popular A Cookie and a Cupcake in Tremont into a full-time pastry assistant position.

Mentored by co-owners Wendy Thompson and SynDee Bergen, Auten quickly realized that you don’t learn everything in culinary school. “They don’t tell you about how you won’t have nights and weekends to hang out with your friends,” she says. “And if you thought you were too sick to work, you were wrong, and you were going to work a 12-hour shift to prove it.”

After two years at the Tremont bakery, the winds began to shift.

“Wendy and SynDee taught me so many things, not just about baking and decorating, but about speed, confidence and attention to detail,” she notes. “They even guided me in my personal life and they became close friends.

I felt I was ready for a different challenge.”

Opportunity came knocking when Crop’s pastry chef Lauren Stephenson asked Auten to join the team at the newly relocated Ohio City restaurant as their pastry assistant. So, in November of 2011, she resigned from A Cookie and a Cupcake and started work at Crop.

“I saw it as a great opportunity to work with Chef Schimoler,” she explains. “I took a leap of faith on him and his company and he took one with me. Steve recognized my talents and supported my desire to work for him fulltime.”

Buzzing around the bustling, open-air Crop Bistro, Auten quickly adopted the nickname “Blondie,” owing to her glowing locks. When Stephenson left Crop to focus on motherhood, Auten was promoted to head pastry chef. Since landing the gig, Auten has worked feverishly to craft a pastry menu that reflects her skills.

“I remember the first complete dessert idea that I brought to Chef Steve and kitchen manager Pete Joyce,” she recalls. “We started bouncing around ideas and feeding off of each other. The end product that went on the menu was so much better than my original idea. This sparked my passion more than any other moment in my career.”

As for where she’ll ultimately end up, Auten neither knows nor particularly cares. “Not sure what’s in the future just yet. I’m very happy with my Crop family and have been given opportunities to develop other skills outside of pastry. Maybe I’ll end up a general manager someday or in a quiet bakery.”

FLAVOR 35

RISING STAR

Andy dombrowski Unless you’ve been living under a rock for the past decade, you’ve likely heard of Zack Bruell and his successful restaurant empire, which now includes L’Albatros, Parallax, Chinato, Table 45 and Cowell & Hubbard. But Bruell understands that he is hardly a one-man show. Enter Andy Dombrowski, corporate chef of Bruell’s ever-expanding restaurant group.

A native Clevelander, Dombrowski is Bruell’s secret weapon in the kitchen.

At 12, Dombrowski would cook spaghetti and stir-fry for his family, inspired by cooking shows on TV. In high school, Dombrowski got his first taste of the hospitality biz by working at a local McDonald’s.

He later entered a vocational cooking program at Normandy High School, where a teacher noticed his passion and work ethic and recommended him for a summer job at Watermark Restaurant in the Flats. Working under executive chef Michele Gaw, Dombrowski started as a prep cook making more than 300 pierogies a day.

“Andy was energetic, enthusiastic and a great addition to the team,” recalls Gaw. “I knew he would be a great cook.”

Dombrowski continued working nights at the Watermark, absorbing everything he could in the kitchen. After graduation, he enrolled in the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute. Halfway through his culinary education, the Watermark came calling with a sous chef position, but after only three months on the job, the Watermark abruptly closed. That was 2002, around the time of the birth of Dombrowski’s first daughter, Isabella.

Becoming a father ignited a new fire under Dombrowki; he bounced between hotels and clubs before landing the sous chef gig at Delmonico’s, Hospitality Restaurants’ new steakhouse in Independence. Just three weeks in, the executive chef resigned and Dombrowsi threw his hat into the ring and landed the job.

The top chef post at Delmonico’s allowed Dombrowski to showcase his operational skills, while expanding his front-of-the-house

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knowledge. After a good five-year run, fate called — or more accurately, Bruell called. “I answered the phone and a voice said, ‘Andy, this is Zack Bruell. I would like to meet with you.’”

The chef-owner of Parallax in Tremont wanted Dombrowski to head the kitchen at his new French-inspired bistro, L’Albatros Brassiere, which was going to open in University Circle. “He was my counter ego; he understands how I think,” says Bruell. “I knew it could be rather scary and twisted.” Bruell knew that he had made a great hire. “As a person, Andy has a great sense of humor. We don’t take ourselves very seriously. We try to put out what we consider great food and have a good time doing it.”

Working alongside Bruell has taught Dombrowski the craft of rustic food while respecting classic French technique. As L’Albatros gained critical success, Dombrowski felt for the first time that his soul was imprinted on a menu.

Bruell then approached Dombrowski about Chinato, and before he knew it the Polish chef was cooking Italian. That restaurant opened on E.ast Fourth Street in early 2010, and thanks to a large floor plan and party room, Dombrowski was responsible for a volume rivaled only by his days at the Watermark.

Bruell knows he has somebody special on his team. “Andy is probably the best executor of fine dining in the city,” explains Bruell. “Not many people know him because he really has very little ego.”

The role of corporate chef came just in time for the latest addition to the Bruell portfolio, Cowell & Hubbard, the third restaurant Dombrowski would open for the group.

An unabashed success for the Playhouse Square neighborhood and the region as a whole, Cowell was just one boon to the rising-star chef: Two weeks before the eatery opened, his second daughter, Phoebe, was born.

Boasting a balance of personal and professional success, this humble chef is just getting started.

And with a mentor like Zack Bruell, there’s no telling how high he’ll rise.

INDUSTRY VETERAN

Bridget Mcginty “I didn’t see my dream job, so I had to invent it,” smiles Bridget McGinty, the owner and chef behind the popular Tastebuds restaurant (1400 East 30th St., 216344-1770, tastebudsrestaurant. com) in Cleveland’s St. Clair-Superior neighborhood.

Born to a large working-class Irish Catholic family in Lakewood, McGinty was raised on a diet of meat, potatoes and Wonder Bread. After graduating from Erieview Catholic, McGinty knew that college was not in the cards.

“It was not an option for me, so I decided to join the Army.” Unfortunately, the Army’s strict height and weight requirements became a hurdle and McGinty was rejected three times.

That final rejection hit McGinty hard. Walking out of the Federal Building downtown one day, the 18-year-old stumbled into the newly built Galleria Mall to find work. “I found the courage and walked into the Ninth Street Grill,” explains McGinty. “They hired me as a busser on the spot and changed my life forever.”

The Ninth Street Grill was the start of many notable stints where McGinty was fortunate enough to work alongside some future culinary rock stars. “I worked eight years at Ninth Street, from bussing tables and serving to bartending,” says McGinty. “I was also lucky to watch chef Karen Small and John Minnillo [Paul’s brother] in action. They ignited my culinary curiosity and sparked my entrepreneurial spirit.”

When Ninth Street Grill closed, McGinty was back to the job search. The front-of-the-house vet landed at Johnny’s Downtown, where she was a server, but she was drawn to the kitchen.

“One day I was hanging out in the kitchen and a chef slid me a taste

of lobster-thyme risotto,” she recalls. “When I tasted it I began to cry. I had never tasted anything so absolutely divine.”

The chef grabbed McGinty by the shoulders and said, “You’re on the wrong side of the kitchen; you’re one of us!” The next day executive chef Vid Lutz suggested to her that she enroll in the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute.

Six weeks later, McGinty was enrolled and living in Pittsburgh.

While cooking was her passion, McGinty knew she needed money to fulfill her real dream of restaurant ownership. She accepted a server position at Blue Point Grille, where service comes before pretty much everything.

A one-year stint at Blue Point allowed her to set aside some cash—and it also helped her refine her concept: lunch only.

“Most of the restaurants I worked for would make money at lunch and lose money at dinner, or vice versa,” she notes.

McGinty’s unconventional approach drew her to a risky section of Cleveland, where vacant warehouses seemingly outnumbered people. On her 30th birthday, McGinty opened Tastebuds on East 30th Street. That was a dozen years ago, qualifying as a feat in every meaning of the word.

Daily, guests pack the place, sliding through the cafeteria-style line to load up their trays.

With her business running on all cylinders, McGinty was able to focus on her personal life. She recently married, and she and her husband Abaz are expecting their first child. Her plans don’t stop there: She hopes to one day pen her memoir, and a new food truck is in the works.

“Live like there’s no tomorrow, eat like there might be.”

FLAVOR 37

[

] The Pizza PurisT

Marc-aurele Buholzer

Lattes • Steamers Frappes • Smoothies We Sell Over 20 Varieties Of Beans Freshly Prepared Soups Salads • Sandwiches Wraps & Paninis 33388 Walker rd, avon lake (440) 930-7201

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Chefs often put their own culinary stamp on pizza, but Marc-Aurele Buholzer of Vero Pizza Napoletana (12421 Cedar Rd., 216-229-8383, veroclevland.com) in Cleveland Heights chooses to go back in time and focus solely on making the most authentic Neapolitan-style pizza he can possibly make.

Born in a village outside Geneva, Switzerland, Buholzer and his family immigrated to America when he was just a child. While growing up in Chardon, Buholzer struggled to find his path in life. But after enrolling in CSU and majoring in philosophy and religious studies, life began to come into focus. “Things were starting to make sense,” he explains. “I realized I have to be fully connected to what I am doing.”

Buholzer has unknowingly been on his present career path for years. “I got my restaurant start as a busser at 16 for Valerio Iorio, owner of Valerio’s in Little Italy,” says Buholzer. When Iorio opened La Gelateria in 2002, Buholzer was right there with him. “This was the first gelateria in Cleveland. At that time, I didn’t even know what gelato was, but people were flocking from all over Cleveland.”

As business grew, Iorio decided to expand the store’s offerings, going so far as to install a wood-fired pizza oven delivered from Naples, Italy. “I have to give it to Valerio— this was a few years before the wood-fired craze hit the U.S.,” says Buhlozer.

Once the beefy brick oven began turning out thin, crisp pies, the shop slowly gained a following among devotees. As the professional pizzaiola (pizza maker) mastered the art of maintaining the fire, making the dough, and executing the pies, Buholzer watched with a keen eye. “I knew there was something special that we were making out of this oven,” says Buholzer.

Then one day opportunity struck when the pizzaiola walked

out. “I think he had a nervous breakdown, and he was the only guy making the pies,” says Buholzer. So, as any eager student would do, Buholzer stepped into the role, learning the craft over the next two years.

But he didn’t love the work he was doing. “I spent over two years making mediocre pizza, plus I didn’t have carte blanche at La Gelateria, so I left,” he explains. When he later learned that La Gelateria had closed—and the wood-fired oven remained—he jumped at the chance to acquire it. “Then everything seemed to click,” he says. “I put a business plan together, gathered some money and opened Vero.”

Buholzer, along with family and friends, spent months redesigning the interior, refocusing the design from gelato to pizza. When the doors opened last summer, Buholzer was still perfecting his craft. But within weeks of opening, he felt that he had not only perfected the dough but also Italy’s centuries-old tradition. “It was about three to four years of working with the dough and the oven — the same time for the average apprentice pizzaiolo in Naples,” he says.

These days, Buholzer is turning out exquisite pies that take just 90 seconds to bake in his skillfully managed 850- to 900-degree oven.

Vero still offers a full line of gourmet gelato, made by the same person as always.

More recently, Buholzer decided to scrap the entire appetizer portion of his menu, instead focusing solely on pizza. “I wanted to focus on the foundation of our business, the dough and Napolitano art,” explains Buholzer.

“Jonathon Sawyer, Doug Katz, Rocco Whalen, Ben Bebenroth and even Michael Symon have all given the thumbs up to what we’re doing here, which means a lot to everyone here at Vero,” says Buholzer.

RISING STAR

BRAD BALL When asked to describe his “chef behind the chef,” Iron Chef Michael Symon doesn’t mince words.

“He has the best hands for charcuterie in Cleveland; as good as I have had in Italy,” Symon boasts. “Brad is a tireless worker with an incredible thirst for knowledge.”

He’s talking about Brad Ball, sous chef and charcuterie pro at Lolita in Tremont. Though he’s been working there for the past two years, the 26-year-old chef’s quest to become the best first began in the suburbs of Detroit.

“I started my cooking career in a bar and catering facility called Bakers of Milford in Michigan,” says Ball. “There, I learned about pressure, and I started to develop my cooking chops.”

While enrolled in the culinary arts program at Oakland Community College in Southfield, Mich., one of Ball’s chef instructors suggested that he try to land a job at Five Lakes Grill. “He told me I needed to get in there,” he recalls. “The chef was Brian Polcyn. He authored the book Charcuterie, The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing.”

That bit of advice turned out to be a life-changer for Ball, who ended up getting the job at Five Lakes Grill after all. “This was the most influential job I had as a young cook. That kitchen taught me so much about technique and honest cooking.

Most importantly, during my time at Five Lakes, I learned the craft of charcuterie.”

Then, in 2008, Ball got wind that Michael Symon was opening Roast in downtown Detroit. He quickly sent in his resume and was soon hired as a cook at the widely acclaimed steakhouse.

For two and a half years, Ball worked day and night

butchering and managing the dry-aged beef program.

That was until he heard of a sous chef opening that was coming available in one of Symon’s signature Cleveland restaurants: Lolita in Tremont. “I heard of the opportunity and sprung on it,” says Ball.

Now living in Ohio City, the recent transplant loves both his new home and his new boss. “Working with chef James Mowcomber has done so much to round out my skill set,” says Ball. “Being here has given me the ability to focus on what I enjoy most: the craft of butchery and charcuterie.”

Working tirelessly in Lolita’s curing room, Ball set out to raise the quality of the restaurant’s charcuterie program, which is on display daily through the Big Board, a rotating canvas of eight to 10 meats. “I have ownership of all the items on our Big Board,” he says. “I try to make it as varied as possible by including smoked, dried, cooked and raw preparations.”

Some of his proudest results to date include duck basturma, sweet red jagerwurst and his Ghost chile coppa. Beyond the board, Ball collaborates with chef Mowcomber on menu items like crispy pig tails and ears with fennel-onion agrodolce, pickled chile and cilantro, and the grilled trumpet mushroom with six-month cured lardo.

While his food speaks for itself, Lolita’s GM Michael Boland recognizes a rising-star chef when he sees one.

“He’s very talented, plain and simple,” says Boland.

The Big Boss wholeheartedly concurs.

“Ball is one of the true young talents,” says Symon.

Authentic Greek Taverna Style Dining

203 E. Royalton Rd. , Ste 115 Broadview Heights.

440-627-6466 greekcornerouzeri.com

FLAVOR 39

For more on The Rail, go to therailburger.com FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE RAIL VISIT THERAILBURGER.COM

For chef-turned-restauranteur Mike Mariola, the road to retirement in Costa Rica is paved with hamburgers. With a goal to hit the islands by 45, Mariola is focused on growing the success of his burger bar — The Rail.

He’s well on his way, as The Rail’s flagship location in Summit Mall in Fairlawn, Ohio, will soon be joined by two new counterparts — Dec. 1 marks the opening of the Westfield Great Northern location in North Olmsted, with another to follow in Canton in the spring of 2014.

Raised by a French mother who shared her love of cooking, gardening and canning, Mariola began his career in a local pizza restaurant. “I love the intensity and camaraderie of a kitchen. I also loved the feeling of taking care of people,” he says.

Mariola progressed into fine dining, working with renowned Chefs Parker Bosley in Cleveland, Michele Richard in Washington, D.C. and Christian Constant in Paris. Upon returning to his hometown of Wooster, Ohio, Mariola and wife Emily decided to bring the small bistro feel they had come love in Paris stateside. In 2002, The South Market Bistro opened in Wooster. After bringing in seasoned restaurant manager

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Mark Amodeo from Chicago, the trio later expanded their partnership in 2008 with the opening of The City Square Steakhouse, a traditional Chicago-style steakhouse in downtown Wooster.

Inspired by the burger and bar success of City Square, Mariola decided to focus on the “quintessential American comfort food” with a standalone burger concept. “There are few restaurants that treat burgers with the care and respect that we do at The Rail,” he says.

Mariola characterizes the restaurant’s design as “Meatpacking District meets Ohio Dairy Farm. The design details take their cues from a time when ‘work’ meant using your hands and back to put food on the table, and when that food was grown and raised in your community,” he says.

While the restaurant relies on highquality fresh local beef and also sources many of their other ingredients locally, the inspiration for The Rail’s signature burger came from outside state lines. “I took a research trip to New York City in 2009 and tasted seven of the city’s best burgers in one night. My stomach hurts just thinking about it. I designed the signature burger on my flight home,” Mariola says. Aptly named 7th Heaven, the burger boasts Ohio thick-cut

bacon, truffle oil and red-onion jam.

Other ½ lb. burger favorites include the Bootlegger, topped with Cheddar, fried onions and Bourbon BBQ sauce and the Mr. Mariola — named after Mariola’s father — which features sunflower pesto, fresh mozzarella, lettuce and tomato.

Complementing any of The Rail burgers are the truffle fries — skinny fries cooked in truffle oil and seasoned with Parmesan cheese and black pepper.

In addition to their food offerings, The Rail also carries a great selection of Ohio craft beers that rotate seasonally— the Great Northern site will offer two dozen selections, including brews from Fat Head’s, Thirsty Dog, Buckeye Brewing, The Brew Kettle, Ohio Brewing Co. and Great Lakes.

Mariola credits his passion and his team with The Rail’s success. “I love the restaurant business. I have hired people in every aspect of my business that are better at what they do than I ever was,” he says. “I have an amazing team and love working with them; they have allowed us to grow like we have.

I am confident in our ability and would love to open additional Rail locations throughout northeast Ohio.” Maybe we’ll see a location in Costa Rica in the future as well.

light the fire CLEVELAND CLASSICS

Amp 150 4277 W. 150th St. (inside the Airport Marriott), 216-706-8787. Ignoring a restaurant because it resides in a hotel is not only unfair — it’s unwise, as evidenced by this contemporary American gem. Upending stereotypes at every turn, Amp relies on locally grown ingredients to fashion its modern, seasonal, and delightful dishes.

Divided into sections for sharing, small plates, entrées, and sides, the affordable menu is ideal for guests who come and go at all hours of the day. $$$ B Spot 28699 Chagrin Blvd., Woodmere, 216292-5567. When Michael Symon set out to craft Cleveland’s best burger, he didn’t take the task lightly. Built with beef supplied by legendary New York purveyor Pat LaFrieda, the burgers explode with beefy goodness.

Other B’s include brats, beer, and bad-ass milkshakes. Tack on orders of rosemaryscented Lola fries, golden onion rings, or blazing-hot Sriracha wings. $$ Blue Point Grille 700 W. St. Clair Ave., 216875-STAR. Well-prepared fresh seafood is the specialty at this beautifully renovated space in the Warehouse District. Don’t miss Blue Point chowder or the grouper over lobster-mashed potatoes. $$$$ Chinato 2079 E. 4th St., 216-298-9080.

Chinato makes diners feel special with redefined Italian dishes served in a contemporary setting. Start with glistening crudo or a bowl of unabashedly salty seafood fritto misto. Chinato’s pastas are lush, dreamy and (fortunately) available in half portions.

Entrées include buttery skate wing, Amaronebraised beef and brilliant porchetta. $$$ Cowell & Hubbard 1305 Euclid Ave., 216479-0555. This being Zack Bruell’s fifth Cleveland restaurant, diners now know they can expect high-caliber service, an interior

pulled from the pages of Architectural Digest, and a menu the size of Atlas Shrugged. What Bruell calls “modern French-American” might just as well be billed New Mediterranean, with nods to Morocco, France and Italy. In the end, the food is characteristically Bruellian: tidy stacks of meat and veg resting in an opulent sauce, diamond-cut by the acidity of lemon. $$$ Dante 2247 Professor Ave., 216-274-1200.

Native Clevelander Dante Boccuzzi has worked his way around the globe, with stints in London, Milan, Hong Kong, San Francisco and New York. Now settled in Tremont, his contemporary bistro borrows from Italian, American and Asian cuisines. Still, no meal is complete without a sample of the chef’s killer pasta, polenta or risotto, all available by the taste. $$$-$$$$ 1890 420 Superior Ave., 216-7764576. This sleekly outfitted restaurant and bar has a view like no other, overlooking the promenades of the elaborate, historic, and exquisitely restored Arcade. The glam setting, in combination with well-prepared breakfast and lunch fare, makes it a fine choice for travelers and downtown workers alike. $-$$ Empress Taytu 6125 St. Clair Ave., 216-391-9400. Behind the doors of Empress Taytu awaits an exotic culinary adventure of the first order.

The restaurant serves authentic Ethiopian foods, including beef, lamb, chicken and vegetarian dishes cooked with a variety of spices and herbs. $$-$$$ Fat Cats 2061 W. 10th St., 216-579-0200. The eclectic,

LOL A

HOT SPOTS

Initially, it’s the name. After all, “Michael Symon” is why you have dinner reservations in Cleveland in the first place. Then you turn the corner and see East Fourth Street for the first time and think, “This is pretty cool.” The expanse of glass that fronts Lola offers a few glimpses of what’s to come: bustling bar, radiant bartop, massive wall of wine. Once fully inside, the room comes into view – the dramatically lit 15-foot coffered ceiling, the one-of-a-kind chandeliers, the titanic open kitchen manned by a small cadre of cooks and chefs. Apps come – pearly oysters perhaps, or the now-famous beef cheek pierogies – and you crack a small smile. A brave soul at the table orders the grilled veal heart and you force down a small bite. And then a larger one. You’ve had halibut before, but it’s never managed to taste like this. Another bottle of pinot? Yes, please.

You can’t possibly make room for dessert, but then you do, along with a few nibbles of ripe cheese, an after-dinner bourbon. It can’t be 10:30 p.m., can it?

2058 EAst FOurth st.

216. 621.5652 LOLAbistrO.cOm

FLAVOR 41

Greenhou se Tavern

Besides Michael Symon, there might be no Cleveland chef who has done more to attract positive national attention than Jonathon Sawyer.

In addition to Greenhouse Tavern’s selection as one of the “Top 10 Best New Restaurants in the U.S.” by Bon Appetit, Sawyer also snagged a spot in Food & Wine’s 2010 class of “Best New Chefs.”

And the accolades haven’t stopped coming, all further bolstering Cleveland as a major foodie town while increasing local culinary tourism. Genial, passionate and wickedly creative in the kitchen, Sawyer makes an ideal ambassador for our food scene. At the restaurant, diners are treated to a rare combination of haute and familiar, where dishes like beef tartar, foie gras-steamed clams and aged Ohio lamb are dished up in a modern tavern setting. And where else in town can an adventurous diner tuck into a roasted pig face, a delicious dish that belies its ghoulish visage.

2038 easT FourTh sT. 216.393.4302, TheGreenhouseTavern.com

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contemporary menu at this Tremont fixture is a good match for its shabbychic decor; and somehow, dishes like bouillabaisse, seared duck breast, and sausage-andgoat-cheese rigatoni taste better when devoured ‘neath the light of candles and lava lamps. Friendly staffers and a full bar are other reasons to pad on into this neighborhood gem. $$-$$$ Flying Fig 2523 Market Ave., 216-241-4243.

Chef-owner Karen Small stocks her larder with simple, homegrown ingredients, then coaxes them into precise assemblages of soaring flavor at this hip, youthful, and energetic bistro in the heart of Ohio City. And as any trendinista will tell you, the Fig’s happy hours are among the best in the city for unwinding on a budget. $$$-$$$$ Great Lakes Brewing Company 2516 Market Ave., 216-771-4404.

A true Cleveland original, this award-winning brewery features contemporary pub fare that’s as good-tasting and as authentic as its historic space. Outstanding craft-brewed beers on tap. $$$ Happy Dog 5801 Detroit Ave., 216-651-9474. Fries, tater tots, and custom-made hot dogs with a choice of 50 toppings form the core of the Happy Dog menu.

But when taken in combination with a rockin’ vibe, plenty of live music, and an impressive roundup of beers (including more than 20 on tap), it makes this little bar one of the biggest draws in town. $-$$ Johnny’s Bar 3164 Fulton Rd., 216-281-0055. Dark, intimate, and timelessly elegant, this manly little jewel box of a restaurant is the sort of place you suggest when you want to impress the boss, wow a date, or just remind yourself why you work so damn hard. The menu is crammed with upscale Italian specialties, including some stunning risottos and one of the city’s finest long-boned veal chops; at lunch, though — pssst — the char-grilled burger

is out of this world. $$$-$$$$ Johnny’s Downtown 1406 W. 6th St., 216623-0055. How does it feel to be one of the beautiful people? Go to this opulent Warehouse District restaurant and find out.

The kitchen’s heady creations are nearly as grand as the room itself, with bold flavors, savory ingredients, and a pleasantly upscale Italian accent. Hey, at least our dreams of the good life are free. $$$-$$$$ Lucky’s Café 777 Starkweather Ave., 216-6227773. This cozy little café offers simple all-day breakfasts, a roundup of lunchtime sandwiches, and bounteous weekend brunches, including several options just right for the meat-free crowd. Regardless of the time, don’t overlook owner Heather Haviland’s well-stocked pastry counter, filled with imaginative muffins, scintillating scones, and brightly frosted cupcakes, among other sweet delights. $$ Melt Bar and Grilled 13463 Cedar Road, Cleveland Heights, 216-965-0988. Rightly praised for its gigantic stuffed and toasted grilled cheese sandwiches, this homegrown phenomenon fills bellies and buoys spirits. Fillings range from the austere to the ridiculous, such as the pair of cheese pierogies inside the Parmageddon. Wicked beer list, kitsch-filled dining room, and rockin’ tunes create a festive atmosphere. $$ Michaelangelo’s 2198 Murray Hill Rd., 216721-0300. Trained in Italy’s Piedmont region, talented chef-owner Michael Annandono tackles an ambitious repertoire of mostly northern Italian fare with consistently delicious results. We can rarely resist the delicate homemade pastas, served in a room that is as elegantly understated as the food itself. Italian and Californian wine list. $$$ Moxie 3355 Richmond Rd., Beachwood, 216831-5599. Svelte and sophisticated, Moxie is where you take your business partners to impress them with your good taste. The seasonal American foods, including grilled fish, savory meats, and bountiful salads, are artfully presented by professional servers. $$$-$$$$ Parallax 2179 W. 11th St., 216-583-9999.

Longtime Cleveland chef Zach Bruell’s salon is as chic as can be, with precise but unpretentious fare that finds its heart in classical technique and its soul in contemporary artistry. Options include excellent sushi, plenty of seafood and such bistro standards as juicy grilled chicken with tarragon-scented pommes frites. $$$ Pier W 12700 Lake Ave., Lakewood, 216228-2250. A landmark dining room overlooking Lake Erie, Pier W combines a sophisticated, contemporary interior with worldly cuisine focused on fish and seafood. (Check out the fine bouillabaisse, for instance, a house signature.) Factor in its jaw-dropping view of the downtown skyline, and its no wonder that Pier W is one of the city’s most beloved restaurants. $$$ Pura Vida 170 Euclid Ave., 216-987-0100.

Veteran chef Brandt Evans’ Public Square restaurant is a breath of fresh air for downtowners, with a spare decor, an urbane vibe, and rustically refined menus built from local, sustainable ingredients.A stickler for details, Evans pays equal attention to every element of a dish. He does, however, leave room for whimsy, as evidenced by the occasional odd ingredient and deconstructed arrangement. Full bar. $$$ Red the Steakhouse 3355 Richmond Rd., Beachwood, 216-831-2252. Luscious slabs of beef and creative, indulgent salads, sides and desserts make this modern American

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momocho

steakhouse a prime location for well-heeled meat-eaters. A wellorganized wine list, gracious service and contemporary rustic decor with a Napa-like sophistication complete the region’s best steakhouse. $$$$ Ristorante Giovanni’s 25550 Chagrin Blvd., Beachwood, 216-831-8625. One of the last remaining grande dames of the region’s formal dining scene, this elegant Italian restaurant offers impeccable appointments, attentive service and a luxurious menu of steaks, veal chops, seafood and pasta.

Yes, it is expensive. But the chance to put on a suit and feel like a grown-up? Priceless. $$$$ Tommy’s 1824 Coventry Rd., Cleveland Hts., 216-3217757. Hippie or hipster, young or old, meathead or vegan, Clevelanders have been flocking to this culinary landmark since 1972, hungry for the big assortment of creative and

unusual sandwiches, soups and salads. After a healthy hummus-stuffed ripe tomato or a grilled-cheese sandwich with veggies, sunflower seeds and sesame sauce, be sure to splurge on a creamy, oldfashioned malt or milkshake. $$ Touch Supper Club 2710 Lorain Ave., 216-631-5200. Big flavors and small prices distinguish the menu at this Ohio City restaurant, bar, and dance club, where the menu glides easily between contemporary comfort fare (think short ribs or macaroni & cheese) and upscale bar noshes (don’t miss the egg-topped burger). Adding to the sense of value, count tasteful amenities, a trendy vibe, and friendly, attentive servers.

Afterward, burn off the calories in the downstairs dance club. $$

American Big Al’s Diner 12600 Larchmere

When Momocho chef-owner Eric Williams introduced Cleveland diners to “Mod Mex,” he did so only after years of running kitchens at Johnny Mango and Lopez. His creative takes on regional Mexican cuisine work because they are grounded in history, familiarity and respect for ingredients. Thus, Momocho’s smoked trout and bacon guacamole is both classic and modern — and always delicioso.

Flavor-seeking diners flock here for roll-your-own beer-braised goat taquitos, crab and smoked trout chilaquiles, and pepita-crusted trout.

“Quality and consistency are the keys to our success,” says Williams.

An unbending edict if ever there was one.

1835 Fulton rd.

216.694.2122 momocho.com

Blvd., 216-791-8550.

If you miss Mom’s cooking, this is the place to get your fix.

Big Al’s has all the comforting favorites, like thick, steaming soups, housemade mashed potatoes with gravy, open-faced roast beef sandwiches and chocolate cake for dessert. Breakfast is served until the diner’s late-afternoon closing time. $-$$ Bistro 185 991 E. 185th St., 216-481-9635.

Neighbors have thanked owners Marc and Ruth Levine for “not being another wing-and-beer joint,” while others appreciate them for not being too upscale.

Bistro 185 takes the glorious middle road, offering hearty made-from-scratch comfort dishes at blue-collar prices. $$$ Blue Canyon Kitchen & Tavern 8960 Wilcox

Dr., Twinsburg, 330486-BLUE. Perched on a hill overlooking the Ohio countryside,

this rambling lodge offers a lovely backdrop for Executive Chef Brandt Evans’ hearty American fare. While entrées like short ribs and mac ‘n’ cheese may sound homey, count on Evans to update them with luxury ingredients and season them with culinary magic. $$$ Bubba’s Q 820 Center Rd., Avon, 440-937-7859. Former Browns player Al “Bubba” Baker has discovered life beyond the gridiron — and it’s dry-rubbed, slowsmoked, and slathered with homemade BBQ sauce. While Bubba’s St. Louis-style ribs are meaty monsters, his boneless baby-back rib “steak” is one for the record books, deboned by a secret process and tender enough to cut with a fork. $$$ Club Isabella 2175 Cornell Rd., 216-229-1111. This new incarnation of Club Isabella sparkles in every way, from the gorgeous setting to the original and eclectic cuisine from chef-owner Fabio Mota.

Among the seafood-centric options: buttery frogs legs, fried sweet and spicy cuttlefish, crab-rich pasta, monkfish in smoky bacon-studded cream sauce, and scallops with braised pork belly. $$$$ Corky & Lenny’s 27091 Chagrin Blvd., Woodmere, 216-4643838. Despite its bright new decor, Corky & Lenny’s remains that most venerable of urban eating establishments: a good Jewish deli. From garlicky dills waiting at each table to the fizzy chocolate phosphates, all the traditional noshes are on hand. Corned beef is lean and flavorful, latkes are fat and tender, and the creamy cheesecake may be the best in town. $$-$$$ The Diner on 55th 1328 E. 55th St., 216-361-0550. A visit to Jim Anagnostos’s shiny silver diner is a nostalgic trip back through time, to the days of all-American meals like meatloaf and gravy, liver and onions, and classic chili. $$ Elements Bistro on Euclid 2300 Euclid Ave., 216-802-3131.

Saving students and staff from

3220 Shaker Sq., 216.921.3473, FireFoodanddrink.com

another semester of sloppy joes and shepherd’s pie, this sharp bistro on the CSU campus looks, feels and tastes like an independent restaurant.

Featuring locally sourced ingredients, the ambitious breakfast and lunch menus tempt both coeds and the community at large at weekday breakfasts and lunches.

Attractive sheltered patio. $$ Gamekeeper’s Taverne 87 West St., Chagrin Falls, 440-2477744. If you think everything fades after three decades, check out this mainstay of the East Side dining scene, where the seasonal menu of well-crafted cuisine remains reliably, vibrantly up-to-date.

Summer lunches on the shady, tree-lined patio are a high point of the season; in the winter, several fireplaces make for cozy indoor dining. $$$-$$$$ Grovewood Tavern & Wine Bar

17105 Grovewood Ave., 216531-4900. Over the years, this vintage tavern has gone from a shabby little shot-and-a-beer joint to a welcoming destination, with a long, eclectic menu ranging from spicy noodle yakitori to burgers and fries, an impressive beer collection, and one of the best-priced wine lists in the region. $$$ Heck’s Café 2927 Bridge St., 216-861-5464. Heading into its fourth decade, this charming Ohio City café remains a reliable, if non-trendy, refuge for

Fire

wraps, steaks, and pastas. $$$ Hodge’s 668 Euclid Ave., 216-7714000. Riding high from the success You know those women who never seem to of two popular food age? That’s how we feel about Fire, Doug Katz’ trucks — not to 12-year-old bistro that looks as if it opened just mention a Food yesterday. The industrial chic dining room, the Network reality baby-smooth concrete bar, the open kitchen, show appearance the snappy linens… the place defines “timeless — Chris Hodgson landed his first appeal.” The American menu is both static bricks-andand dynamic, filled with popular signature mortar restaurant. dishes that receive quarterly seasonal tweaks, Teaming up with the augmented by daily features, built from market experienced Scott fresh ingredients. We’re not quite sure how Kuhn, Hodge a tandoor oven works, but we do know that delivers exciting, everything that comes out of it tastes like gold. approachable dishes with broad appeal. Who can lunch, dinner, or Sunday brunch, resist lobster corn dogs, flaky best enjoyed in the airy garden goat-cheese tarts, and light-asroom, a mug of cinnamonair gnudi? For the mains, dig scented coffee at hand. While into a pasta version of French gourmet burgers are the specialty onion soup, pitch-perfect of the house, other options duck breast, and luxurious abound, including salads,

Food + drink

braised lamb shank. $$$

Jezebel’s Bayou 12718 Larchmere

Blvd., 216-721-3877. This attractive Larchmere Boulevard space is operated by the folks behind Angie’s Soul Café and Zanzibar Soul Fusion. Here, the focus is on Cajun and Creole dishes inspired by the Big Easy: Think authentically prepared gumbo, jambalaya, BBQ shrimp, and étouffée. The seafood is fresh, the sauces vivacious, the portions robust, and the prices right where they should be. $$$ Lava Lounge 1307 Auburn Ave., 216-589-9112. Behind its bland, blue-collar-bar exterior, the Lava Lounge has morphed into a hip, happenin’ hangout, with an eclectic menu of deliciously prepared “small plate” noshes to mix and match. Best of all, the kitchen stays open until 2 a.m. nightly. Intriguing selection of imported beers. $$ Mahall’s 20 Lanes 13200 Madison Ave., Lakewood, 216-521-3280.

A mecca of awesomeness, with food, cocktails, music, bowling and beer. The doors opened in 1924. In 2012, new owners re-vamped the menu and space while holding onto the business’s historical integrity and glory.

Some menu highlights include fried chicken, housemade cornbread, the deluxe burger, elote (Mexican corn-cob) and an ever-changing array of veggies.

If you’re just looking for snacks, the curry popcorn and Mitchell’s vanilla bean milkshakes are not to be missed. $$ Market at the Fig 2523 Market Ave., 216-241-4243. Chef Karen Small transformed a seldom-used private dining room at Flying Fig into a sleek gourmet retail marketplace. The European-style shop offers a deft mix of prepared foods, madeto-order sandwiches, specialty retail products, and beer and wine. Sandwiches could not be better, prepared as they are with

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Fahrenheit

if all that isn’t reason enough Rick’s Café 86 North Main St., to visit, remember that during Chagrin Falls, 440-247-7666. For warm weather, the handsomely over 30 years, Rick’s has served landscaped patio is one of the as the kitchen away from home for coolest destinations in town. $$$ hungry Chagrin Falls residents.

Spice Kitchen & Bar 5800 Detroit Unfussy and satisfying, the hearty Ave., Cleveland Heights, 216-961American fare includes homemade 9637. Approachable, seasonal, and soups, fresh salads, great burgers expertly crafted, the food at chef and now-famous barbecue ribs and Ben Bebenroth’s restaurant is a chicken. Full bar and small patio. $$ locavore’s dream, with the concise Rockefeller’s 3099 Mayfield Rd., menu getting frequent tweaks.

Cleveland Heights, 216-321-0477.

Polenta fries combine the crunch For years, this breathtakingly of a fry with the creaminess of soft beautiful French Norman space polenta; flatbread is layered with has been reserved for private house-smoked trout; soups swing functions. With the unveiling of from potato and sunchoke to chilled Rockefeller’s, guests now can beet and pickled squash. While dine in an extravagant room built treatments change, diners can count for a tycoon. Seasonal American on dishes built around flavorful with the occasional Asian kick, the local pork, chicken, and beef. $$$ dishes are creative but restrained Washington Place Bistro & Inn and always delicious. Lounge 2203 Cornell Rd., 216-791-6500. seating with a complementary The former Baricelli Inn has been menu gives late-night noshers spruced up by new owner and a tasteful place to roost. $$$ hospitality pro Scott Kuhn, with a Rosewood Grill 36 E. Streetsboro streamlined decor, a handsome bar Rd., Hudson, 330-656-2100. and lounge, and a delightful menu This handsome dining room earns of seasonal American dishes crafted praise for quality, execution, and with an eye toward local sourcing. value, if not ground-breaking Sunday brunch is a popular draw, originality. Contemporary American as is the Wednesday-night prix fixe in spirit, the approachable menu menu. In summer, the secluded marries shareable starters, patio is a delight. $$$-$$$$ bountiful salads, and crowdWest Side Market Café pleasing sandwiches with choice 1979 West 25th St., 216-579-6800. steaks, pastas, and seafood. Full Another changing of the guard has bar and patio with fire pit. $$$ placed this convenient café inside Soho Kitchen and Bar 1889 West the West Side Market in good hands.

25th St., 216-298-9090. Short for Tom Szoradi, veteran chef and owner Southern hospitality, SoHo serves of the long-running Juniper Grille, fresh takes on Low Country, Cajun, has elevated the quality, consistency, and Creole cuisine. On the snappy and cohesive menu are classic Fahrenheit opened in Tremont back Southern staples in 2002, making chef Rocco Whalen like shrimp and grits, catfish Po’ one of the earlier culinary pioneers Boys, and chicken of that neighborhood. That the and waffles, all restaurant has continued to thrive dressed up for a more demanding in what has become an exceedingly modern audience. fierce marketplace is a testament to Even the cocktails its quality and broad appeal. Whalen’s scream Deep brassy American cuisine delivers in South, with bourbon, rye and terms of ingredients, preparation and moonshine-fueled presentation, making it a destination bevies going for diners from as far afield as both down like sweet tea on a sticky coasts. Vietnamese chicken spring summer day. $$$ rolls, Kobe beef short ribs, coffeeThe South Side crusted pork tenderloin and dreamy 2207 W. 11th pizza pies are some of the reasons St., 216-9372288. Casually guests continue to flock here, but more hip and artfully than anything it’s Whalen’s passion unpretentious, for his food, his neighborhood, and his this clubby Tremont tavern city that warms the cockles. offers good food, cold beer, stylish surroundings and frequent 2417 ProFessor ave. appearances 216. 781. 8858 by local bands Fahrenheittremont.com and DJs. And

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5115 Wilson Mills Road • Richmond Heights, OH 44143 www.LaTaqueriaCleveland.com • 440.442.1397

Mon-Thur 11:30-8 Fri & Sat 11:30-7 La Taqueria is a blend of flavors from the kitchen of La Fiesta, Cleveland’s 1st Mexican restaurant. Literally connected to La Fiestas kitchen, we’re located on the east side in Richmond Heights, at the corner ofRichmond and Wilson Mills, next to TNT. We feature 44 choices with endless flavor combinations and options. We’ve been eating, serving, and loving Mexican food for going on 60 years now. La Taqueria is our take on Mexican street food as well as a new spin on the big burrito. Of course we do giant burritos, but we feature lettuce cup tacos, soft corn taqueria tacos, and naked burrito bowls for the health conscious in addition to several vegetarian options. For the bold we proudly introduce, the Chimichanga, a deep fried spin on the build your own burrito. Mild, Medium, and spicy sauces as well as some options that are not for the faint of heart. Full choice of imported Mexican beer, home made Lime and Golden Margaritas, and fiery Mexican viagra!!

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CLEVELAND CLASSICS and creativity of this breakfast-andlunch mainstay. Breakfasts are upscale versions of diner classics; sandwiches consist of house-roasted meats atop artisan-baked breads; and fun starters like sausage-studded Hanky Pankies (cheesy fondue) and tempura-fried shitakes kick-start the meal. $$ South of the Border Barrio 806 Literary Rd., 216-9997714. This Tremont taqueria puts the power of the pen in the diner’s hand. Guests design their own tacos from a list of some 30 components — from shell to filling to salsa to toppings. The best part: They are all just $3 each. This blissfully informal approach is a great fit for the unpretentious food. In addition to the tacos, the menu features a few starters and sides, not to mention a landslide of tequilas and margaritas.

The delightful patio makes a perfect perch to enjoy them. $ Barroco Grill 12906 Madison Ave., Lakewood, 216-221-8127. This small Colombian restaurant specializes in street food — primarily homemade arepas: puffy corn tortillas, made fresh and filled with grilled steak, pork, chicken, or other savory fillings.

Those same arepas also are cut into fingers, deep fried, and served with cheese fondue for dipping. Can you say “best drunk food ever”? $-$$ El Tango Taqueria 14224 Madison Ave., Lakewood, 216-226-9999. Chef, artist and musician Antonio Carafelli turns humble Tex-Mex and Latino standards into flavorful masterpieces in this little Lakewood storefront. $$ Johnny Mango 3120 Bridge Ave., 216-575-1919. You’ve got to love a place that makes Ohio City feel like a beach shack in Cozumel, and Johnny Mango — a “world café” and juice bar — does just that, with a blend of Asian, Mexican, and Caribbean flavors, and items that range from burritos to pad Thai to Jamaican jerk chicken. Service is speedy, portions are hearty, and there are plenty of choices for vegetarians.

Full bar and small patio. $$-$$$ Lopez Southwestern Food Club 2196 Lee Rd., Cleveland Hts., 216-932-9000. Colorful, quirky, yet sophisticated, Lopez’s urbane charms present the perfect backdrop to its creative menu of “gourmet Tex-Mex” fare, ranging from lobster empanadas to mahi-mahi tacos and bluecheese-piqued guacamole. There’s also a solid selection of homemade

SokolowSki’S UniverSity inn

As residents of the chilly Midwest, we instinctively turn to full-flavored, rib-sticking, carb-loaded comfort foods to survive the season. And there’s no better source than Sokolowski’s University Inn. The homestyle cooking at this Tremont institution strikes a deep chord with Clevelanders, but it’s also Stop No. 1 for visitors, who travel here to experience a true taste of our Eastern European roots. Working down the cafeteria line, guests load their trays with pierogies, Salisbury steak, stuffed cabbage and chicken paprikash. The suckers hit the salad bar.

Everything is made from scratch and tastes that way. Bring on the long winter’s nap.

1201 UniverSity rd.

216-771-9236 SokolowSkiS.com

desserts and an impressive array of top-shelf anejo tequilas. $$$ Luchita’s 3456 W. 117th St., 216-2521169. From the outside, Luchita’s looks like nothing more than a corner bar in a working-class neighborhood.

But inside, some of the city’s best Mexican cooking is taking shape. It is in the authentic Mexican specialties

that the kitchen really shines. Dishes are delicious, well prepared, and unlike any fast-food fare. $$-$$$ Mi Pueblo Taqueria 12207 Lorain Ave., 216-671-6661. Friendly, informal and authentic, this tidy tacqueria serves bountiful portions of flavorful Mexican fare. Beyond the big burritos and saucy enchiladas, liquid options

From the Superior Viaduct setting overlooking the lake and downtown Cleveland, surrounded by world class art, Chef Luca Sema and his sommelier wife Lola welcome you to their restaurant for dinner as it should be…an experience remembered for days afterward. We look forward to becoming your new favorite restaurant.

Chef Luca Sema

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CLEVELAND CLASSICS extend from creamy horchata to a fine assortment of top-shelf tequilas; now that’s what we call family-friendly! $$ Ohio City Burrito 1844 West 25th St., 216-644-0908. Consider this locally grown shop, run by an Ohio City-based brother-sister team, your alternative to that Denver-based chain, offering friendly staff, fast service, and fat burritos stuffed with a variety of freshly prepped fillings. Soft tacos and salads add variety. Take out, or dine in at one of the brightly painted tables. $ Orale Kitchen 1834 West 25th St., 216-862-3117. For years, chef Roberto Rodriguez has run a popular Mexican foods stand at the West Side Market. Now he has expanded into a restaurant in a slim Ohio City storefront. The 25-seat eatery serves contemporary Mexican cuisine like chicken mole tamales, jalapeno-dough empanadas, fish tacos, and chipotle honey glazed pork chops. A display cooler stocks many of the prepared foods sold at the market. BYOB is OK. $$ Pupuseria La Bendicion 3685 W. 105th St., 216-688-0338. This quick-casual joint specializes in those little Central American

treats called pupusas. Filled with various toppings, the thick tortillas are griddle fried till crisp and corny. Also on tap here are great tacos and tamales: fresh, cheap, and utterly delicious. $$ Italian/Pizza Angelo’s Pizza 13715 Madison Ave., Lakewood, 216-221-0440. There are pizzas. And then there are Angelo’s pizzas: plump, fragrant works of art, from the thick provolone topping all the way down to the rich, yeasty crust. The chicken club is good, the veggie is great and the creamy, cheesy seafood pizza, topped with lobster cream, shrimp, crabmeat and fresh spinach, is the stuff of which our dreams are made. Salads, sandwiches, wings, a few pasta platters and a worthwhile beer list round out the menu at this good-looking spot. $$ Bruno’s Ristorante 2644 W. 41st St., 216-961-7087. Stepping into this cozy neighborhood ristorante — with its wooden bar, linoleum floors, and menu of pizza, pasta, and assorted parmigianas, cacciatores, and marsalas — is like traveling

back in time to the days when Italian restaurateurs baked their own breads, made their own pastas, and served it all in charming, intimate spaces. Almost everything on the “full-meal deal” menu is delish. But when it comes to fried calamari and baked lasagna, Bruno’s scores among the very best. $$$ Carrie Cerino’s Ristorante 8922 Ridge Rd., N. Royalton, 440237-3434. This venerable Italian restaurant features hearty Northern Italian fare, with an expansive menu of made-from-scratch pastas, sauces, breads, and desserts. $$$ Crostatas 558 Bishop Rd., Highland Hts., 440-449-7800. Aficionados of authentic Neapolitan-style pizza have been claiming this pizzeria serves the best pie in town. That is not a surprise considering that the pizzaioli uses time-tested ingredients, techniques, and equipment, including a 950-degree woodburning oven. The menu is largely confined to pizza, but does include starters, salads, and desserts. $$ D.C. Pasta Co. 12214 Pearl Rd., Strongsville, 440-238-8500. Chef Dante Boccuzzi’s third Cleveland restaurant, D.C. makes high-

quality, house-made pastas fun and affordable. Sold by portion size — taste, appetizer, or main — the various combinations can be mixed and matched to create a wide-ranging feast. The rest of the menu is equally accessible, with sections for cured meats, Italian cheeses, marinated veggies, meatballs, entrées — even olives. Top it all off with 25 bottles of Italian wine priced south of $25 and you have the makings of an affordable Italian banquet. $$-$$$ Dewey’s Pizza 2194 Lee Rd., Cleveland Hts., 216-321-7355. A fine choice for families, this bright, contemporary pizza parlor offers freshly made pies, wholesome salads and a concise selection of beer and wine, including eight microbrews on draft. Friendly staffers take small fry in stride, and while Mom and Dad unwind, the kiddies can safely watch the chefs at work from behind a glass partition. $$ Eddie’s Pizzeria Cerino 7305 Broadview Rd., Seven Hills, 216236-6007. Too often, Italian joints go heavy on the comfort and light on the quality. Not so here where owner Eddie Cerino approaches traditional Italian food less like a grandmother and more like a chef.

HAPPY HOUR (Bar Only) Tuesday—Friday 4:30p—6:30p

HOURS:

Tuesday - Thursday 4:30 - 10:00pm Friday and Saturday 11:30am - 2:30pm (lunch) | 4:30pm -11:00pm (dinner) Sunday 5:00pm - 9:00pm

Follow Us On

@tartinebistro

19110 Old Detroit Rd • Rocky River, Ohio 44116 •(440) 331-0800

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BLISS

JOY

Happy Hours daily Singer Songwriters every Wednesday

checkout facebook for events. menus. all things luxe sunday - FUNday... all day

{

“If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world.”

- J.R.R. Tolkien

SIMPLICITY

}

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Start Your Night With Dinner Reservations start at 4pm till 10pm Interested in staying after dinner? Stay and play for $100 per person after your dinner reservation.

End Your Night With Our HOUSE PARTY! Event kicks off at 10 pm & features......

Bountiful Appetizers Open Bar DJ Champagne Toast at 12am • Breakfast Buffet At 1am Tickets/ $125.00 per person

Take it to the VIP LEVEL! Exclusive VIP Lounge Package Features....

Exclusive Seating Up To 6 • Bottles Service Personal Host • Exceptional Appetizers After Midnight Breakfast Dishes.

Tickets/ *$1200 per section

TEN TOP VIP

Premier VIP Area With Seating Up To 10 Featuring All Elite Offerings Tickets/ *$2000 per section For additional information or to book your reservation contact:

Katie@puravidabybrandt.com *Prices are plus gratuity. Reservations are required in advance; a credit card will be required and processed that morning. Restrictions apply.

170 Euclid Ave / Cleveland / Ohio / 44114 • (216) 987-0100 52

FLAVOR

CLEVELAND CLASSICS And thanks to half orders of salad and pasta, diners have control over portion size and price. $$$ Flour 34205 Chagrin Blvd., Moreland Hills, 216-464-3700. After 25 years in Little Italy, Paul Minnillo has moved to the suburbs with this contemporary restaurant serving modern regional Italian cuisine. The far-ranging menu includes small-plate-style antipasti and creative greens, as well as silken pastas and hearty entrées. A wood-fired pizza oven turns out killer Neapolitan-style pies.

A deep Italian wine list and a patio round out this East Side gem. $$$ Mama Santa’s 12305 Mayfield Rd., 216-421-2159. Every college campus needs a nearby spot like Mama Santa’s, with its retro vibe, cheap wine, and stunningly inexpensive Italian eats. Thin, greaseless, crisp-crusted pizza is the specialty of the casa; when you and the gang can score a 15-incher for less than 10 bucks, who cares if there’s a wait for a table? $-$$ Marotta’s 2289 Lee Rd., Cleveland Hts., 216-932-9264. We’ve seen hallways bigger than this tiny Italian restaurant, but the intimate ambiance and robust food are ample compensation for the lack of elbow room. The small menu has the usual pasta, chicken, and veal dishes, all well-prepared and flavorful. And the hand-tossed, stone-baked pizzas are notable for their crisp, almost wafer-thin crusts.

Impressive all-Italian wine list. $$$ Osteria di Valerio & Al 408 W. St. Clair Ave., 216-685-9490. The anonymous phrasemaker who said “Good things come in small packages” surely didn’t have this tiny Italian restaurant in mind, but he could have: The Warehouse District’s smallest upscale dining room more than compensates with big quotas of flavor and style. $$$ Porcelli’s Bistro 1852 E. 6th St., 216-574-2270. A popular lunch stop for downtown’s white-collar crew, Porcelli’s serves a simple but sophisticated menu of salads, sandwiches, and pastas, including gnocchi with pesto cream and penne with chicken, spinach, and walnuts. Prices are reasonable, particularly by downtown standards, and speedy service will get you back to the office before Scrooge even knows you’ve ducked out. $$ Primo Vino 12511 Mayfield Rd., 216229-3334. Don’t let the subterranean location fool you: This Little Italy mainstay, settled at the bottom of a long flight of stairs, is as warm and welcoming as nonna’s kitchen, with a neighborly vibe and the walletfriendly prices to match. Offerings are mostly traditional Italian — pastas, polenta, eggplant parmesan — with a few stylish twists. And to drink, check out the short but interesting list of wines-by-the-glass. $$-$$$

’Stino da Napoli 19070 Old Detroit Rd., Rocky River, 440-3313944. “Delicate,” “precise,” and “beautifully balanced” are just a few of the terms that spring to mind when we recall the preparations at this little gem of an Italian restaurant.

While nearly every dish is as close to perfection as any kitchen is likely to come, the ephemeral gnocchi, the fork-tender veal, and the homemade desserts are so exactly right, they nearly make us weep. $$$ Valerio’s 12405 Mayfield Rd., 216421-8049. Unless your mama is from Naples, we’ll wager that the meals you serve aren’t nearly half as good as Valerio’s rustic, unpretentious food. And we doubt that you employ a staff of tall, slender waiters, who roam the room like dashing exclamation points. All-Italian wine list. $$$ Vero Bistro 12421 Cedar Rd., Cleveland Heights, 216-2298383. Boasting one of the very few wood-burning ovens in town, Vero turns out some of the most authentic Neapolitan-style pizza around. Owner Marc-Aurele Buholzer inherited the oven — and the space — from the previous tenant, La Gelateria. The gelato is the same, but the pizza is much improved.

An airy, chewy edge blistered with char gives way to a thin, crisp inner crust supporting a few choice ingredients. These pies are meant to be enjoyed fresh from the oven. $$ European/ Mediterranean Americano at Bratenahl Place Club 1 Bratenahl Pl., Bratenahl, 216-541-3900. The dining room at this posh twin-condo complex has been the site of numerous short-lived restaurants. But if any endeavor has reason to survive it is Americano, an impressive Euro-American bistro. An ambitious kitchen crafts its own charcuterie, pickles, condiments and breads. The at-times-brilliant bistro fare straddles

the line between classic French and seasonal American, with prices thankfully in line with the latter.

Enjoy mussels, crab cakes, steak frites, beef Bourguignon and seared scallops. Full bar and wine list. $$$ Felice Urban Café 12502 Larchmere Blvd., 216-791-0918. If you think Fat Cats is cool, you’ll definitely love Felice. Run by the same restaurateur, this cozy eatery is tucked inside a restored Craftsman-style home on the Shaker-Cleveland border.

Awaiting diners is unfussy and affordable Mediterranean fare, much of it with a decidedly Spanish flair.

There’s chorizo-spiked mussels, lamb sliders, skirt steak chimichurri and garlicky seafood stew. Full bar, wine and beer. Outdoor patio. $$ La Strada 2050 E. 4th St., 216-8613663. Like any good Fellini flick, this production is loaded with fantastic scenery. If that scenery is the journey, then the food must be the destination. Spanish, Moroccan, Turkish, Italian and Greek items combine in harmonious fashion.

Think Italian wedding soup, woodfired Turkish kebabs and Moroccan chicken and couscous. Enjoy the namesake film from a wroughtiron balcony as it is projected onto a large interior wall. $$$ Le Petit Triangle Café 1881 Fulton Rd., 216-281-1881. A little cramped, occasionally noisy, and quite possibly the city’s smallest restaurant, this tiny French bistro still manages to turn out superlative crepes, earthy pâtés, and one of the best Croque Monsieur sandwiches this side of the Seine. $$ Luxe Kitchen & Lounge 6605 Detroit Ave., 216-920-0600. This welcoming bistro brings approachable, affordable, and delicious Mediterranean-inspired food to the Detroit-Shoreway neighborhood.

Shabby-chic with a farmhouse twist, the restaurant features mixand-match plates, kitchen-towel napkins, and repurposed fi xtures.

With a host of small plates, shared plates, pastas, pizzas, and prix

fi xe dinners, the menu has options for every mood and budget. $$$ Mallorca 1390 W. 9th St., 216-6879494. Mallorca, with its large portions of classic Spanish dishes and formal, friendly service, has developed a devoted following.

Best bets include paella Valenciana — a generous portion of shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels, halflobster tail, chicken, and chorizo sausage in a saffron-flavored seafood broth. $$$-$$$$ Sans Souci 24 Public Square, 216-902-4095. Under the guidance of well-seasoned chef Brett Montgomery, this 20-yearold restaurant in the downtown Renaissance Hotel seems reinvigorated. Much of that comes from Montgomery’s decision to highlight local products on his Med-American menu, an urge that extends from precisely prepared dinner entries like Lake Erie walleye and Ohio City Pasta pierogi to the cheeses, sausages, and even the maple syrup on the groaning breakfast buffet. $$$-$$$$ Sterle’s Country House 1401 East 55th St., 216-881-4181. For almost 50 years, this Central European polka palace has been dishing out family-style fare at wallet-friendly prices. The all-inclusive dinners include chicken soup, salad, bread and butter, Wiener schnitzel, roast pork, smoked kielbasa, sauerkraut, potatoes, veggies, coffee and dessert. Or, order from the menu’s listing of numerous veal, pork and chicken dishes.

Live music and dancing on Friday and Saturday nights. $$-$$$ Tartine Bistro 19110 Old Detroit Rd., Rocky River, 440-331-0800. We hesitate to call this sweet little spot a French bistro, if only to avoid conjuring images of gilded mirrors and framed absinthe prints. Tartine is a warm neighborhood tavern that happens to serve French-inspired fare, gallons of red wine, and armfuls of good cheer. Plus, there’s really good pizza! A small kitchen puts

L’ALBATROS BRASSERIE

Zack Bruell has like a million restaurants now, and while each and every one of them has its own charms, we always seem to recommend this one to our friends, family and out-of-town guests. There’s the tuckedaway charm of the building, an old carriage house that has never looked better. There’s that million dollar patio that on warm summer evenings feels like the most blissful patch in town. If you can find better service in Cleveland, please point the way as L’Albatros manages to up that ante with each passing meal.

And then there’s the food, a perfectly imagined and executed roster of French bistro fare, with porky pâté, garlicky escargot, crispy confit, and hearty pied de cochon. It’s places like this and meals like those that form the basis of lifetime memories.

11401 BELLFLOWER RD. 216. 791. 7880 WWW.ALBATROSBRASSERIE.COM

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CLEVELAND CLASSICS out not only small plates, but also sandwiches (tartines), right-sized entrées, and classic desserts. $$ Taste Food & Wine 2317 Lee Rd., Cleveland Hts., 216-932-9100.

This polished Mediterranean bistro is a welcome addition to a street known more for its pubs than posh eateries. An easygoing vibe belies the level of talent in the kitchen and prowess on the plate. Elegantly composed dishes sing with clear flavor, purpose and direction.

In the chef’s hands, items like seared scallops and rack of lamb are at once familiar and original. Consider the prix fixe menu, which includes an appetizer, entrée, dessert and two glasses of wine for $45. $$$ Asian/Indian/ Middle Eastern Aladdin’s Eatery 14536 Detroit

Rd., Lakewood, 216-521-4005.

Aladdin’s serves a variety of simply prepared, Middle Eastern-inspired foods, including homemade soups, salads, pita wraps, steamed veggie plates, and pita “pizzas.” Choices for vegetarians abound, and freshly squeezed juices, fruit smoothies, and a small selection of beers and wines are available. $$ Café Tandoor 2096 S. Taylor Rd., Cleveland Hts., 216-3718500. One of the region’s first Indian restaurants, Café Tandoor is notable for its large, well-organized menu and its complex blends of flavors.

Don’t miss the remarkably fresh and sweet-tasting navaratana curry or the profoundly flavored mango chutney. $$-$$$ Ginko 2247 Professor Ave., 216-274-1202. Having worked at famed Nobu, chef Dante Boccuzzi had lofty aspirations when creating Ginko, his

subterranean sushi restaurant that sits below the chef’s eponymous Dante. As a result, Ginko is a paean to fish, most of it raw, some of it rolled, all of it exceptional. Diners seated at one of the two booths can also enjoy shabu shabu, Japanesestyle fondue. Beer, wine, and sake are available. $$$-$$$$ Ginza Sushi & Steak House 1105 Carnegie Ave., 216-5898503. One of the city’s first sushi houses, Ginza remains a mostly hidden treasure, catering to a loyal crowd of white-collar regulars, who stop by to enjoy the serene decor, the low-key vibe, and the big menu of sushi, sashimi, and hibachi faves. $$-$$$ Ha-Ahn 3030 Superior Ave., 216-664-1152. Settled inside the Golden Plaza, this modest bistro offers a full lineup of Korean specialties, including a version of bibimbap that

is out of this world. $-$$

India Garden 18405 Detroit Ave.,

Lakewood, 216-221-0676.

Small, friendly, and featuring the usual lineup of Northern Indian curries, biryanis, and tandoori preparations, this nicely appointed eatery has plenty to offer vegetarians and carnivores alike. And for those seeking the unusual, a handful of Indo-Chinese dishes (check out the “Manchurian-style” stirfried cauliflower) adds a global twist. Daily lunch buffet. $$$ Indian Flame 11623 Euclid Ave., 216-791-5555. While small and cramped, the Flame is reliably consistent at delivering delicious and reasonably priced Indian fare. The sizable menu contains both dependable favorites and opportunities for adventure, like the matchless goat curry. A thriving lunch buffet attracts Indian food fans like moths to a, well, flame. $$

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avon middleburg hts. north olmsted mayfield hts. parma eastlake www.twobucks.us

restaurant dedicated solely to Thai food, Map is making friends fast. While the menu may seem familiar, the precisely executed dishes exiting the kitchen are no run-of-the-mill fare. Don’t miss the beef jerky starter, larb salad, country-style pad Thai,

is bright, modern, and roomy.

Meals begin with cups of nutty barley tea and a huge spread of panchan: pungent side dishes that range from fiery kimchi to steamed broccoli. Miega prepares its flavorful kalbi and bulgogi atop a tabletop hot plate.

216-961-9671. Small, casual and friendly, this family-owned Vietnamese restaurant serves cinnamon-scented pho, colossal crêpes and an assortment of tasty noodle bowls, along with plenty of vegetarian options. $$ Nate’s Deli and Restaurant 1923 W. 25th St., 216-696-7529.

When it comes to freshly made Middle Eastern foods, Nate’s is great. Especially beloved for its thick, smooth hummus with 3030 Superior Ave. | 216.781.7462 | Superiorpho.com a texture like whipped butter, Has pho jumped the shark? We’re all for spreading the joys of this heart-warming VietnamNate’s also makes smoky baba ese beef noodle soup, but not at the expense of quality. The stuff that passes for pho in some ghannouj, crisp fried kibbeh, places? Sheesh. For our money, the best bowl still can be found at Superior, an easygoing space and tender, plump meat or spinach pies. If your tastes where the broth is always heavenly scented, the noodles perfectly textured, and the accoutrerun to more traditional deli ments freshly gathered. It might be tough to pry yourself away from the pho, but if you can fare, try a king-sized cornedmuster the resolve, order the chicken cabbage salad and a handful of bahn mi sandwiches. beef or pastrami sandwich.

Service is casual and friendly, and the place has the feel of a and duck in green curry. $$ fresh seafood and authentic Hong The galbi dolsot bibimbap — rice, beef, neighborhood cornerstone. $-$$ Kong-style cuisine. Dim sum is veggies, and a fried egg served in Miega Korean BBQ 3820 Superior served from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. $$ a sizzling earthenware bowl — is Noodlecat 234 Euclid Ave., Rd., 216-432-9200. Located on one of the best in the city. $$-$$$ the second floor of Asian Town 216-589-0007. Fun and funky, Map of Thailand 3710 Payne Ave., Center, this Korean restaurant downtown’s only Japanese-style 216-361-2220. Asiatown’s only Minh Anh 5428 Detroit Ave., Li Wah 2999 Payne Ave., 216-

589-9552. Located in the Asian Plaza — a three-floor complex of professional offices, gift shops, herb stores, and Asian food markets — Li Wah offers an assortment of traditional dim sum as well as a large menu of

Superior pho

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A Touch of Sunny Spain Right Here in Downtown Cleveland 1390 w. 9th st.

In the Heart of Cleveland’s Warehouse District 216.687.9494 | mallorcacleveland.com Hours of operation: Monday - Saturday lunch 11:30AM-3PM Mon. - Thurs. 3PM-10:30PM | Fri.-Sat. 3PM-11:30PM Sun. Dinner only 1PM-10PM

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CLEVELAND CLASSICS Charming servers in traditional kimonos add a decorative touch. $$$ Siam Café 3951 St. Clair Ave., 216-361-2323. Neat, tidy, and friendly, this multicultural restaurant in the heart of Asia Town serves an enormous variety of authentic Asian eats, most with an emphasis on seafood.

Ingredients are fresh, flavors are nuanced and masterfully balanced, and prices are notable values, particularly during the bustling lunch hours. $$-$$$ Taza 28601 Chagrin Blvd., Woodmere, 216-464-4000. A sort of grown-up version of the health-conscious, vegetarianfriendly Aladdin’s Eateries, Taza is all that — and a full bar too.

Despite the handsome decor and upscale appointments, the casual attitude and big menu of Lebanese standards will strike a familiar note with Aladdin’s fans.

Other upgrades include freshly

baked pita, kebabs taken straight off the charcoal grill, and a big assortment of traditional Middle Eastern meze, just right for sharing around the table. $$$ Tea House Noodles 1900 E. 6th St., 216-6239131. A welcome alternative to fast-food lunches, this funky downtown noodle house and juice bar combines fresh flavors and speedy counter service with a casual college-town vibe, for a dining “experience” as unique as it is inexpensive. That’s probably why the lines are sometimes out the door. Go, and feel good. $-$$ Ty Fun Thai Bistro 815 Jefferson Ave., 216-664-1000. From the intricately folded napkins to the carved carrot roses, this intimate Thai restaurant in Tremont serves up the eye candy as well as a

POP, CRACKLE, SNAP

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bar cento

For a joint that has progressed through two high-powered chefs like Jonathon Sawyer and Mike Nowak, Bar Cento is doing just fine, thanks. Executive chef Adam Lambert grabbed the baton, picked up where the others left off, and continued sprinting toward that elusive finish line. The menu – that perfect mix of snacks and mains, meat and fish, pizza and pasta – always manages to have precisely what you’re craving even when you don’t quite know what that is. Prices remain value-driven, and the casual and snug atmosphere makes this wine bar one of the best reasons to visit Ohio City.

1948 West 25th st.

216. 274.1010 barcento.com

solid assortment of well-prepared standards — pad Thai, chicken satay, and spicy green curry. $$$ Udupi Café 6339 Olde York Rd., Parma Hts., 440-743-7154. A favorite of the Indian community, but still mostly unknown to the rest of us, this spacious, well-maintained vegetarian restaurant specializes in authentic south Indian cuisine, which tends to be spicier but less heavy than its better-known northern Indian counterpart. Crowd-pleasers include sheer stuffed crêpes (dosai), spicy lentil soup (sambar), and batura, a puffy fried bread about the size of a watermelon.

Features a daily lunch buffet. $$ Umami Asian Kitchen 42 North Main St., Chagrin Falls, 440-247-8600.

What this jewel box of a bistro lacks in size, it more than makes up for in style, thanks to an umami-filled contemporary Asian menu. There are nods to Chinese, Thai and Japanese cuisine, with stellar ingredients buoyed by complementary flavors and spices. Sushi and seafood shine,

as do heartier meats like pork belly and duck. Vegetarians can even dine well on crispy tofu and pad Thai. $$$ Steaks & Seafood Austin’s Smokin’ Steak House 6535

Wilson Mills Rd., Mayfield, 440-4424340. Wild, woodsy aromas suffuse this friendly little restaurant, where hickory smoking, slow cooking, and mesquite grilling are the order of the day. Nearly everything, from the thick, sweet, and peppery BBQ sauce to the delicate biscuits in the strawberry shortcake, is made fresh and in-house. And for a real taste of the ol’ West, be sure to try the zesty Smokin’ Beans. $$$ Cabin Club Steakhouse 30651 Detroit Rd., Westlake, 440-899-7111. Big, juicy steaks, an annotated wine list, and friendly waitresses make this the place for expense-account types to unwind after work or to entertain on the weekends. Excellent choices include the Cabin Club strip steak, the center-cut rib-eye, a behemoth

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LUNCH AT STERLE’S • TUESDAY THRU FRIDAY CLEVELAND CLASSICS

1401 E. 55th • CLEVELAND 216.881.4181 • sterlescountryhouse.com

with braised pork belly. Come Mardi Gras season, Salmon Dave’s is one of the best places to be. Full bar, extensive wine list. $$$-$$$$ Strip, a Steak House 36840 Detroit Rd., Avon, 440-934-9900. Housed in a 160-year-old Pennsylvania Dutch barn, this steak house is anything but old-fashioned. Owner Ron Larson spiffed up the interior in ways that will pleasantly surprise diners expecting doilies and drapes.

The two-story barn features a first-floor lounge with open kitchen and a spacious loft dining room.

First-rate steaks and chops share the menu with less conventional steakhouse fare, like smoked chicken, pasta Bolognese and horseradish-crusted grouper. $$$$ Sussex Seafood & Grille 29280 Euclid Ave., Wickliffe, 440-9432002. Close your eyes, and you can almost hear the roar of the surf from your seat inside this Florida-style seafood house, an East Side institution, where the crabcakes are sweet and crunchy, and the puffy-battered scrod and scallops seem lighter than an Atlantic breeze. Beer and wine; small selection of liquor. $$$ Pubs/Wine + Martini Bars

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ABC Tavern 1872 W. 25th St., 216861-3857. A classic Cleveland “old-man” bar with a totally modern vibe, this well-run tavern offers a full bar and plenty of tasty noshes, ranging from roasted red pepper hummus to a humongous burger.

Nightly happy hours help make this a popular destination. $$ Academy Tavern 12800 Larchmere Blvd., 216-229-1171. Like a wellworn couch, this vintage corner tavern may show its age, but its comfort is undeniable. For proof, just look at the diverse clientele, chowing down on big portions of hearty, inexpensive food. While the burgers are always a good bet, the eclectic offerings include everything from ham & eggs to veal Parmesan, and chicken paprikash to black-eyed peas. $$ The Brew Kettle Taproom & Smokehouse 8377 Pearl Rd., Strongsville, 440-239-8788.

Casual, inexpensive, and familyfriendly, this little brewpub dishes up a big assortment of smoked and barbecued meats, along with homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, and entrées. Pulled pork is a particular fave — for a change of pace, try it in the barbecued spaghetti! Rotating selection of 24 beers on draft. $$ Buckeye Beer Engine 15315 Madison Ave., Lakewood, 216-226-2337.

The beer’s the thing at this hipyet-homey Lakewood pub — more

than two dozen choices on draft, including what owner Garin Wright calls “breakouts, hot stuff, and things you’ve never seen before in your life.” Still, the food is keeping up , with a satisfying assortment of burgers (including some meatfree variations) as well as salads, soups, and assorted noshes. $$ Burntwood Tavern 504 E. Washington St., Chagrin Falls, 440-318-1560. A tried-and-true combo of handsome surroundings and familiar fare makes this snug Chagrin Falls tavern a popular neighborhood spot. $$-$$$ Deagan’s Kitchen + Bar 14810 Detroit Ave., Lakewood, 216-7675775. “Gastropubs” are where ambitious cuisine collides with informality and kick-ass beer. To see what one looks, feels, and tastes like, head to Deagan’s in the heart of Lakewood. It’s a food-lover’s pub, where the chef-driven fare is good enough to earn a spot at a so-called fancy restaurant. $$ Fat Head’s Brewery & Saloon 24581 Lorain Rd., N. Olmsted, 440-8011001. Pittsburgh beer lovers will no doubt know (and love) the Fat Head’s brand. The super-popular watering hole has been a South Side fixture going on two decades.

Award-winning local brewer Matt Cole has grafted a superb brewery onto that famous brand, offering fresh-made suds to go along with the mammoth Headwich sandwiches. The pub-grub menu also stocks bar munchies, salads, pizzas and barbecue. Patio. $$ Flannery’s Pub 323 Prospect Ave., 216-781-7782. Flannery’s rightly has earned a reputation as one of the best places to party before and after Downtown events.

Abundant, efficient and welcoming, the staff knows how to handle a crowd. But when it comes to food, this well-oiled machine often sacrifices quality for speed.

Keep your expectations in check and a beer in your hand and the night should end on a high note.

During summer, the generous front patio here is party central. $$ The Harp 4408 Detroit Ave., 216-9390200. The warm decor here sets the mood for an inclusive menu of Irish and American fare, ranging from boxty and shepherd’s pie to lobster pierogi. Throw in a good selection of Irish brews and spirits, along with live traditional music, and you’ve got yourself one top-notch pub. $$$ Jammy Buggars 15625 Detroit Ave., Lakewood, 216-767-5922. While most of his Lakewood neighbors aim high or low, Jim Sprenger steers for the middle, serving goodquality grub at rational prices in a comfortable setting. Family-friendly comfort food like chicken paprikash, fish and chips, and amazing grass-fed-beef burgers share the

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CLEVELAND CLASSICS menu with creative sandwiches and bacon-and-cheese-topped fries.

Toss in quality craft brews and attentive service, and you are indeed eatin’ good in the neighborhood. $$ The Little Bar and Grille 614 Frankfort Ave., 216-861-2166. Yup, it’s a little bar all right: dim and a tad dingy.

But that said, it’s worth seeking out for its first-rate burgers, juicy ribs, freshly cut French fries, and a daily “comfort food” special like chicken Parmesan over penne pasta. $$ Market 1137 Linda St., Rocky River, 440-799-4292. Market partners John Owen and Dave Rudiger have transformed a former municipal impound lot into an upscale sports bar. To go with the 100 beers and the requisite banks of flat screens, Market offers shareable starters, big salads, great sandwiches, and plenty of steaks, pastas, and seafood. A heated patio extends outdoor dining well into fall. $$$ Market Garden Brewery 1947 West 25th St., 216-621-4000. This massive Ohio City brewpub seats well over 300 guests in multiple dining rooms, at various bars, and in a gem-like beer garden. Upscale pub grub joins an ever-evolving list of world-class suds, cooked up by an award-winning brewmaster.

Don’t miss the house chips, meat boards, Cubano, and ridiculously delicious southern fried chicken. $$$ Nighttown 12387 Cedar Rd., Cleveland Hts., 216-795-0550.

This atmospheric pub is as cozy and friendly as can be, with food that ranges from bangers and mash (juicy grilled sausage with mashed potatoes and cabbage) to thick slabs of certified Angus beef. The nightly entertainment by local musicians is supplemented with regularly scheduled special performances by nationally known jazz artists. $$$ The Old Angle Tavern 1848 W. 25th St., 216-861-5643. An exceptionally handsome, subtly Irish pub and dining room, the Old Angle meshes the comfort of a neighborhood bar with the dim, sexy ambiance of a club. There’s a small menu of well-prepared, casual eats, including burgers, falafel wraps, and of course, lamb stew. $$ Rocky River Brewing Co. 21290 Center Ridge Rd., Rocky River, 440-895-2739. Established in 1998 as a premier brewpub and restaurant, Rocky River Brewing Company was founded on creating world-class handcrafted beers, an award-winning menu, and a great dining experience. Over the past 10 years, Rocky River Brewing Company has won more than a dozen national and international medals for its beers and numerous Silver Spoon awards for its food.

Stone Mad Pub 1306 W. 65th St., 216-

281-6500. Luxe flourishes turn up around every bend in this beautiful pub, from the hand-laid cobblestone parking lot to the hand-rubbed walnut woodwork. In contrast, the menu is as straightforward as it comes: Burgers, meatloaf, pasta and steak, served alongside the indoor bocce court. 21 and over only. $$ Tremont Tap House 2572 Scranton Rd., 216-298-4451. In the spirit of the region’s finest neighborhood taverns, the Tap House serves its neighbors well with boldly flavored, cleverly packaged and downright affordable American fare. Entrees like grilled hanger steak are proof that this is no pubgrub pub. Beer list (24 taps, 50+ bottles) is easily among city’s top five. Late-night food. Patio. $$ West End Tavern 18514 Detroit Ave., Lakewood, 216-521-7684.

A venerable Lakewood tavern, complete with tin ceiling, wooden floors, and a well-worn bar, this neighborhood watering hole serves up booze, music, and more than a few made-from-scratch items — including burgers, pot roast, and the popular black-bean soup — during lunch, dinner, and weekend brunches. $$ Willoughby Brewing Company 4057 Erie St., Willoughby, 440-9750202. Good, handcrafted beer and deftly prepared food, in a handsome, historic building. What more do you need to know? $$$ XYZ the Tavern 6419 Detroit Ave., 216-706-1104. Eclectic and affordable pub-style comfort food is the name of the game at XYZ, with great burgers, corned beef and chicken sandies filling the bill. Don’t miss the housemade chips and the killer chicken and waffles. More than 70 varieties of whiskey, scotch, bourbon, and rye and a smashing craft beer list make this lively American pub a true neighborhood gem. $$ Quick + Casual Bogtrotters Doorstep 1848 West 25th St., 216-861-5515. The menu at chef Nate Williams’ Ohio City sandwich shop is as crisp as an album’s track list. Just eight giant sammies: no soups, no sides, no desserts. All the meats are marinated, brined, and roasted in-house, and the drippings from each are reserved for use as gravy. Most of the sandwiches are modeled after classic American varieties and can be had drenched in jus or topped with chips for crunch. Best of all, the shop stays open until 3 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Mainly carryout. $-$$ Cleveland Pickle 850 Euclid Ave., 216-575-1111. Quickly becoming downtowners’ favorite lunch stop,

GOURMET PLATES

TRANSFORMED INTO SANDWICHES & FRENCH BREADS

Chef Damon Ginnard winner of 2012 Chef Jam and former Chef of Momocho will be serving his version of sandwiches tacos and pizza. We have dine in, carry out, and delivery to select areas.

4363 Rocky River Drive/inside Riverside Pub (216) 392-4496 www.phatdaddyskitchen.com FLAVOR 67

CLEVELAND CLASSICS Josh Kabat’s casual sandwich shop features almost a dozen meaty, Cleveland-themed creations. The Terminal, for example, combines Black Forest ham, brie, mustard and apricot jam in a soft 8-inch sub bun. Dining is mainly carryout, but a few tables accommodate those who can’t wait to dig in. $-$$ Souper Market 2528 Lorain Ave., 216-737-SOUP. Amiable Matthew Moore is no Soup Nazi, although his wonderful “made-from-scratch” broths and bisques are certainly good enough to justify some arrogance. Jambalaya, bisque, and tomato-ginger soup are among his eight or so daily offerings, all packaged with a slice of artisanal bread to go; there’s also a small selection of salads and bottled beverages. No tables, although a narrow countertop can accommodate a few stand-up souls. $ Sweet Moses Soda Fountain 6800 Detroit Ave., 216-651-2202.

Owner Jeffrey Moreau, a former ad man, set out to revive the great tradition of neighborhood ice-cream parlors — and boy did he succeed.

Wall-to-wall with ice cream sundaes, chocolate candies, buttery fudge, crunchy caramel corn, and creamy root beer floats, Sweet Moses has instantly become Gordon Square’s go-to dessert destination $ Cafes, Coffee Shops + Bakeries Bonbon Pastry & Cafe 2549 Lorain Ave., 216-458-9225. Award-winning pastry chef Courtney Bonning branches out into the savory world at this cute-as-a-cupcake café.

Like a big-city patisserie, the café is intimate, elegant, and attractive enough to warrant a visit every day.

In addition to the delectable sweets, the café dishes up breakfast, lunch, and weekend brunch. Quiche of the day, meat-filled Cornish pasties, and a killer Ohio beef burger are just a few of the offerings. $$ Great Lakes Baking Company 85 S. Main St., Hudson, 330-342-5878.

Baker and proprietor John MacMillan left a corporate job to open this bakery. Now he’s up to his elbows in dough and couldn’t be happier.

Crisp baguettes, dense loaves made with organic flours, tender sweet rolls, berry-filled muffins, and old-fashioned cookies come rolling out of John’s ovens. Enjoy them at an indoor table with a cup of coffee or tea; better yet, in summer, eat your snack on the breezy porch. $ Luna Bakery & Cafe 2482 Fairmount Blvd., Cleveland Hts., 216-2318585. This wee and tidy space in the Cedar-Fairmount District is as crisp and cosmopolitan as a bespoke suit. More bakery than café, the shop specializes in sweets of every size, color and seductiveness.

Rounding out the menu are made-to-order panini and French crepes, both sweet and savory. $$ On the Rise 3471 Fairmount Blvd., Cleveland Hts., 216-320-9923.

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FLAVOR

Part chemist, part craftsman, Adam Gidlow produces fine artisanal breads, bursting with honest wheat flavor and giving off clouds of nutty, toasty aromas. French baguettes are the real deal, with crisp but pliable crusts; rustic Italian loaves are an epiphany; and croissant-like sticky buns are a naughty dream. Mostly carryout, but two bistro tables accommodate those who can’t wait. $ Presti’s Café and Deli 12101 Mayfield Rd., 216-421-3060. Presti’s is bright, contemporary, and inviting, and, with two walls of tall windows, it offers some of the best peoplewatching in Little Italy. Fresh foods include bruschetta, stromboli, pepperoni bread, and frittatas, as well as sweets like cannoli, pignoli, biscotti, and strudel. After your meal, pick up a loaf of warm Italian bread to take home. $-$$ The Root Cafe 15118 Detroit Ave., Lakewood, 216-226-4401. Built largely from local, sustainable, and organic ingredients, the vegetarian menu at this coffeehouse is wholesome if not terribly thrilling.

Fresh salads, house-made soups, straightforward veggie sandwiches, pizzas, and calzones fill the concise menu. Superbly brewed Phoenix coffee pairs beautifully with Root’s house-baked vegan and vegetarian pastries. $ The Stone Oven 2267 Lee Rd., Cleveland Hts., 216-932-3003.

Besides providing breads for some of Cleveland’s top restaurants, The Stone Oven sells a variety of European artisanal loaves for at-home enjoyment. If the sight of all those golden-crusted beauties leaves you famished, treat yourself to a fat sandwich (on your choice of fresh-baked bread, of course), a colorful salad, homemade soup, or a giant piece of fragrant Sicilianstyle veggie pizza. Counter service, with plenty of tables. $-$$ Sweet Melissa’s 19337 Detroit Rd., Rocky River, 440-333-6357. This sharp West Side café, set in the former Max’s Deli space, features an all-day menu of soups, salads, sandwiches, entrées and delectable desserts. Management endeavors to source local, sustainable and organic foodstuffs; soups, salad dressings and pastries are made fresh daily; sandwich bread comes from a nearby bakery. Bountiful salads, over-stuffed sandwiches and wallet-friendly entrees are this eatery’s stock in trade. $$

Open every day at 4pm Kitchen serves late 1109 Starkweather Ave. | Cleveland, OH 44113 216.937.1938 | www.prosperitysocialclub.com

FLAVOR 69

MOD MEX cleveland *

MOMO MOM OCHO | OHIO CITY 1835 FULTON ROAD 216˙694˙2122 momocho.com

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Cleveland’s original “mod mex” dining destination | award- winning, nationally recognized cuisine | full bar featuring unique, house- made maragritas | weekday happy hour and-a-half | viva momocho!

LAKEWOOD EL CARNICERO | LAKEWO OD

The “Casa de Carnes” | 58-seat bar featuring unique specialty cocktails and latin beers on tap | nightly happy hour 4:00 7:00 PM at the bar | weekend brunch | private party room | viva carne fabulosa! © 2013 El Carnicero / Super Chango Tequileria Momocho Mod Mex. Chef/Owner Eric Williams.

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16918 DETROIT AVENUE 216˙226˙3415 elcarnicerolakewood.com

FLAVOR 71

SOMETHING NEW IS BREWING AT LEGACY VILLAGE

GRANITE CITY FOOD & BREWERY (GRAND OPENING NOVEMBER 6TH)

24519 Cedar Road Lyndhurst, OH Legacy Village

PRIVATE DINING AREAS AVAILABLE WHERE FOOD & BEER IS MORE THAN A CRAFT www.gcfb.com

It’s an art

facebook.com/granite.city.lv

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