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Destination reports Kraków - a Royal Capital Horse-drawn carriages in Kraków. Photo by Paul Muldoon
If you’re planning a weekend getaway, or even a longer European adventure, one of the places you should have on your itinerary is Kraków in Poland. Here, Paul Muldoon tells us why
R
etaining its old-world ambience and charm, Kraków is the prettiest of Poland’s main cities. The former Polish capital’s atmospheric Old Town and the Jewish district Kazimierz’s streets are crammed with exciting galleries, cafes, pubs and restaurants. Aside from the Vatican, no city is more associated with the late pope St John Paul II than Kraków, where he lived for 58 years – the region has many tourist trails tracing his footsteps. Here’s what else you can look forward to in Kraków.
City steeped in history
Paul says: “Every corner you turn and street you walk down in Kraków will have a fascinating history attached to it and a story behind it – the city itself is a mixture of modern and the past. A lot of its history goes back to World War II, as it was the only city in Poland which made it through the war unscathed.” After the invasion of Poland by the Nazis, Kraków became the
capital of Germany’s General Government, so it was protected in that regard. “There are many interesting historical sites worth a visit, particularly Oskar Schindler’s Factory – where you’ll learn more about the Nazi invasion – and the Wieliczka Salt Mine, which was amazing. Generations of miners worked there in the past and carved chapels within the salt mines themselves. You’re 100m underground and walk down 300 steps to get there but you get a lift back up. Everything is made from salt – the walls, floors, ceilings, sculptures, chandeliers, it’s just fantastic.” One regret for Paul was that the concentration camp of Auschwitz was booked out. You can make sure you avoid disappointment by booking a visit to Auschwitz online before you fly over.
Easy to get around
“One of the best things about Kraków is how close you are to everything. We flew over with
Ryanair and the airport was only about a 20-minute drive from where we were staying, at Hotel Galaxy. The hotel was luxurious, with perfect-sized rooms, a great bar and delicious breakfast, but what made it even better was how close it was to the city centre – it only took us about 20 minutes to walk into the city.” The hotel is very close to the Remuh Jewish Cemetery, where there are over 100 headstones of those who were killed in the Holocaust. “The cemetery was unkempt but that’s what made it all the more interesting, like stepping back in time. It’s a good idea to walk everywhere and take it all in, but Kraków also has a great tram system and taxis are cheap.”
Great atmosphere
Kraków is much more than just a home to historical monuments, it also has a vibrant music scene, with jazz traditions dating back to before World War II.
Pleasure of the senses Sidi Bou Said. Photo by Clodagh Dooley
W
hen you think about Tunisia, it’s very difficult not to associate it with recent tragic events. Travelling to the north African country, my initial perception was that it wouldn’t feel like a safe place and perhaps wasn’t very vibrant – that the recent tragedies had put a dark cloud over the country. I certainly saw no grey cloud at any point during the trip! Any initial fear or nerves I had were instantly put to the back of my mind as I embraced the country’s rich culture. I experienced a completely new way of living, taking away a wealth of knowledge about the
country’s history, food, crafts, traditions and friendly people. Around every corner, there are fascinating ancient ruins and buildings to be discovered, with each area of Tunisia having a different story to tell. Here are just some of the reasons why I fell in love with Tunisia.
Sun, sea and sand
With a 1,148km-long coastline and a typical hot Mediterranean climate throughout the year (temperatures can range between 28-40 degrees in the summer), Tunisia ticks all the boxes for a sunshine destination. Staying in the luxurious Ramada Plaza Tunis hotel in
Valuable experience
“It is an enriching experience to learn about the city’s history and culture. My wife and I spent three full days exploring – from Friday to Sunday – and that was more than enough time to see everything. It’s such a beautiful, relaxing city and the food, drink and transport are all great value. I’d definitely return, but the next time, I’ll make sure I’ve booked Auschwitz.”
Travelling to Kraków
Things to do and getting there – www.poland.travel Flights – www.ryanair.ie Hotel – www.galaxyhotel.pl/en Auschwitz – auschwitz.org/en/visiting/
Five days spent in Tunisia exceeded all of Clodagh Dooley’s expectations
Gammarth – a town on the Mediterranean Sea about 20km north of the city of Tunis, and a 20-minute drive from Tunis-Carthage Airport – I was greeted each morning by panoramic views of the Tunisian coastline. Just a one-minute walk from the hotel was the peaceful beach of the Cote de Carthage, where you can get camel rides. For a lively, seaside atmosphere, Hammamet is worth a visit, even for a day trip. About an hour’s drive from Gammarth (a bus or train ride is cheap), one of the first things you’ll notice is that the family-orientated town is set amidst palm, eucalyptus, orange and olive trees, with an enticing aroma of Jasmine. Besides the beautiful plant life, Hammamet’s white sandy beach is impressive and there are often small events held nearby which capture the spirit of Hammamet locals.
Taste of tradition
“Harris Piano Jazz Bar in the Old Market Square is a must-visit,” says Paul, “but there are many outstanding bars and restaurants in that area too. There’s a great atmosphere on the streets of the city; lots of street performers, singers and dancers; and antique horse-drawn carriages taking people around the market square. There are open-air markets, where you can buy anything from meats, baked goods and spices to antiques and souvenirs.”
Tunisian cuisine offers a variety of tastes, combining elements of Turkish, French and Mediterranean food. The staple dish is couscous and nowhere
else in the world will you taste couscous as fine and delicious. Brik, a thin, crispy pastry filled with a whole egg, parsley, onions and sometimes meat, is another traditional dish worth a try. There are so many opportunities to embrace Tunisian traditions, particularly within the Medinas (the ancient quarters of North African cities or towns, such as Tunis, Hammamet and Nabeul). Here, you’ll find souks (Arab marketplaces), which sell everything from fabrics, crafts and ceramics, to distilled orange blossom water, spices and traditional pastries, all at cheap prices.
Breath of fresh air
Just a 24-minute drive from Tunis is Sidi Bou Said. The town, located on a steep cliff overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, is said to have inspired many artists such as Michael Foucault and writers including Simone de Beauvoir. Wandering through the narrow paths of the bohemian town, each building has pure, whitewashed walls, vibrant blue doors with traditional motifs, elaborate latticework window screens (moucharabiehs) and a
mix of planting. With bustling bars, cafés and souks, and breath-taking views, Sidi Bou Said is a truly enchanting place.
Historical charm
The National Bardo Museum in Tunis is a jewel of Tunisian heritage. Housed in an old Beylic palace dating back to the 19th century, it has the largest collection of mosaics in the world. Close to Sidi Bou Said, the accumulation of ruins across Carthage allows the ancient city to come alive. Today, visitors can discover Roman baths, art and religious
rituals, and water reservoirs in the city which was burned to the ground by the Romans many years ago in the Punic War. Visit ‘The Temple of Water’ in Zaghouan (approximately an hour’s drive from Carthage), which marks the site of an aqueduct built in the 2nd century BC and was used to carry water to Carthage, over 130kms away! In addition to Zaghouan’s rich history, it boasts beautiful landscapes and a mountain famous for caves that are open for exploration.
Travelling to Tunisia Things to do – www.discovertunisia.com Flights – www.tunisair.com Hotel – www.ramadaplaza-tunis.com Currently, the only route from Ireland to Tunisia is through a weekly chartered flight with Sunway, or through a connected flight from Dublin to London Gatwick, and then by TunisAir. Although it is advised against travelling to Tunisia now unless essential, Zakaria Fathallah, TunisAir Director for UK and Ireland, says “Ireland’s decision is strongly linked to that of the UK concerning recommendations on travel to Tunisia. The recent visit of Boris Johnson to Tunisia was an opportunity to promise an upcoming revision of the recommendations of the FCO during his meeting with the Ministers of Foreign Affairs and Tourism.” For advice on flying or to book, contact the Tunisian National Tourist Office on +44 (0) 20 7224 5561 or visit www.antor.com.