İstanbul galata

Galata Gezisi İstiklal Caddesi,

İstiklal Avenue (Turkish: İstiklâl Caddesi, French: Grand Rue de Pera, English: Independence Avenue) is one of the most famous avenues in Istanbul, Turkey, visited by nearly 3 million people in a single day over the course of weekends. Located in the historic Beyoğlu district, it is an elegant pedestrian street, approximately three kilometers long, which houses exquisite boutiques, music stores, bookstores, art galleries, cinemas, theaters, libraries, cafés,pubs, night clubs with live music, historical patisseries, chocolateries and restaurants.

The avenue, surrounded by late Ottoman era buildings (mostly from the 19th and early 20th centuries) that were designed with the Neo-Classical, Neo-Gothic, Beaux-Arts, Art Nouveau and First Turkish National Architecture (Birinci Millî Mimarî Akımı) styles; as well as a few Art Deco style buildings from the early years of the Turkish Republic, and a number of more recent examples of modern architecture; starts from the medieval Genoese neighbourhood around Galata Tower and ultimately leads up to Taksim Square.

Galatasaray Square is located at approximately the center of the avenue and is home to one of the finest educational institutions established in Turkey at the time of the Ottoman Empire; originally known as the Galata Sarayı Enderun-u Hümayunu (Galata Palace Imperial School) and today known as Galatasaray Lisesi.

In the historic Karaköy district towards the end of the avenue, it is possible to see the world's second-oldest subway station, generally known and referred to as simply Tünel (The Tunnel) which entered service in 1875. Moreover, the German High School of Istanbul (Deutsche Schule Istanbul in German, Özel Alman Lisesi in Turkish) is also located near Tünel.

The cosmopolitan avenue is surrounded by an array of historical and politically significant buildings, such as the Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage) where small, intimate restaurants and taverns are found; Balık Pazarı (The Fish Market), the Roman Catholic churches of Santa Maria and S. Antonio di Padova, the Greek Orthodox Haghia Triada, the Armenian Church (among many other churches), severalsynagogues, mosques, academic institutions established by various European nations such as Austria, France, Germany and Italy in the early 19th century, consulates (former embassies before 1923) of several nations including France, Greece, Russia, Spain, Sweden, the Netherlands and the United Kingdom.

During the Ottoman period, the avenue was called Cadde-i Kebir (Grand Avenue) and was a popular spot for Ottoman intellectuals, also becoming a center for Europeanforeigners and the local Italian and French Levantines who referred to it as Grande Rue de Péra. When 19th century travelers referred to Constantinople (today, Istanbul) as the Paris of the East, they were mentioning the Grande Rue de Péra (İstiklal Caddesi) and its half-European, half-Asian culture. With the declaration of the Republic on October 29, 1923, the avenue's name was changed to İstiklal (Independence) for commemorating the triumph at the Turkish War of Independence.

Narmanlı han,

The historic star of Istanbul Built in the 1800s to serve the Russian Embassy, Narmanlı Han is located in Istanbul’s historic Beyoğlu district. Up until the beginning of the 20th century, various annexes were added to the complex. In 1933, the complex was sold to the Narmanlı family and later used for shops, offices, residential units and artists’ workshops. A number of famous personalities have lived in the building; among them Turkish artists and writers such as Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar, Aliye Berger and Bedri Rahmi Eyüboğlu.

Narmanlı Han is a complex of five large buildings built around an inner courtyard situated on a 2,643 square meter site. At the end of May 2001, an agreement was signed with the Narmanlı family for construction in return for landownership. At present, Yapı Kredi Koray owns 15% of the complex. Upon completion of the Narmanlı Project, 60% of the complex will be owned by Yapı Kredi Koray with the balance owned by the Narmanlı family. The project, which will be accelerated in 2006, is considered a primary example to historical transition projects in Turkey. This project in Beyoğlu will consist of various functional units such as a movie theater, a concert hall, an exhibition hall, shops, a bookstore, a music store, cafés and restaurants, workshops and studios. Thus it will serve as the much-longed-for meeting place for Istanbul residents.

Casa Botter (Apartmanı)

Casa Botter (Botter Apartmanı) (1900–1901), a seven-story workshop and residence building in ART NOUVEAU Style. Casa Botter (Botter Apartment) (1900–1901),the first art Nouveau workshop and residence building in Beyoglu, Istanbul. It was designed for the Ottoman Sultan Abd�lhamid II's Dutch fashion tailor M. Jean Botter by the architect Raimondo D’Aronco.

İsveç Konsolosluğu, The Swedish Embassy in Constantinople (Istanbul) was established here in the late 1600s under the reign of the royal House of Vasawhen Sweden was one of Europe's great powers. Kings Charles XI and Charles XII controlled most of the Baltic region, which put them at odds with Russia, Turkey's longtime natural adversary, so theOttoman sultan was their natural ally. The Swedish Palace in Istanbul is Sweden's oldest state property abroad.

The grounds in Beyoglu (ancient Pera) were bought in 1757. However, the original building was damaged by fire on several occasions and the present Swedish Palace dates from 1870. In the 1920s, when Ankara became the capital of Turkey, the diplomatic missions were moved to that city and the old, often magnificent, embassy buildings in Istanbul were transformed into consulates.

Today the Swedish Palace in Istanbul holds offices on the ground floor, official reception rooms on the first floor and the Consul- General's private residence on the top floor. It is surrounded by a beautiful garden. Connected to the garden there is a small chapel, built in 1858 by the Swedish envoy. In 1962, the Swedish Research Institute in Istanbul was established.

Since 1974, it has been located in the old Dragoman Building in the Palace garden. The Research Institute provides guest rooms, a library, work facilities for visiting scholars and a modern auditorium for up to 50 people. It organises and hosts seminars and academic courses and it is a popular meeting place for Turkish and Swedish scholars

Tünel Meydanı ve Tünel, Tünel Square, at the southwestern end of Istiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue) in Beyoğlu, Istanbul, is the upper terminus of Istanbul's little old 19th-century, two-station u The Tünel (English: Tunnel ) is a short underground railway line in Istanbul, Turkey. It is an underground funicularwith two stations, connecting the quarters of Karaköy and Beyoğlu. Located at the northern shore of the Golden Horn, the underground railway tunnel [1] goes uphill from close to sea level and is about 555 meters long. Inaugurated on January [1] 17, 1875, the Tünel is the second-oldest subterranean urban rail line in the world after the London Underground (1863), but the first subterranean urban rail line in continental Europe.

The Tünel was originally conceived by the French engineer Eugène-Henri Gavand in 1867. Its purpose was to provide an easy ride between the neighbourhoods of Pera (Beyoğlu) and Galata (Karaköy), both of which were in the relatively newer part of Istanbul, on the northern shore of the Golden Horn. Many people used to work in Galata close to sea level, and live uphill in Pera, about 60 metres higher. The only direct street connecting the two, Yüksek Kaldırım, is steep and narrow; at the time of the construction of the Tünel, it was crowded with 40,000 pedestrians a day. Gavand conceived of the Tünel as [3] "a kind of elevator ascending and descending" that would greatly ease the journey.

Two years later, on November 6, 1869, Gavand received permission from the Ottoman sultan Abdülaziz to start the project [1] with a forty-two year concession to operate it. After finding foreign funding, Gavand established a company called the Metropolitan Railway of Constantinople to carry out the project. Construction began on July 30, 1871 but was delayed [3] significantly by conflicts between landowners and the company. The tunnel was not completed until [1] [1] December 1874 and was finally opened for service on January 17, 1875.

The Metropolitan Railway company gained a fresh 75-year concession in 1904 but the Tünel was nationalised in 1923 when [3] the Turkish Republic was proclaimed. In 1939 it was absorbed into the new IETT (İstanbul Elektrik Tramvay ve Tünel) [1] [4] transportation organization. It was modernised and electrified in 1971. Today, the short line is no longer as vital for Istanbul's inner city traffic as it used to be back in the 19th century, but it is still a part of the municipal transport network and integrated tickets are valid.

Description The Tünel consists of a single brick-lined tunnel measuring 554.8 metres (1,820 ft) long, 6.7 metres (22 ft) wide and 4.9 metres (16 ft) high. It has one station at either end. The lower station is named Karaköy (located on the eastern end of Tersane Avenue at and the upper station Tünel Meydanı - Tünel Square (located on the southern end of Istiklal Avenue at The upper station stands 61.55 metres (201.9 ft) higher than the lower one. The slope of the tunnel varies along its length [3] from 2 percent to 15 percent. It was originally built with two parallel lines, but now has a single track with a short duplex section in the middle, where two trains pass side by side.

[1]

Rolling stock The original rolling stock on the Tünel consisted of two wooden two-car trains. One car was reserved for passengers, with two classes provided, each of which had separate compartments for men and women. The other car was used to transport [3] [5] goods, animals and even horse-drawn carriages. Motive power was provided by steam engines.

The wooden carriages were replaced in 1971 with two electrified steel cars running on pneumatic tires. Their cruising speed is roughly 25 km/h. A trip between the two stations takes about 1.5 minutes, with an extra two minutes of waiting between [4][5] operations to allow passengers to board the train.

İlk Belediye ve Ebniye nizannamesi, The first modern municipality-like public body was established in the wake of the Tanzimat perod(the era of fundamental administrative reforms in the Ottoman Empire introduced in 1839). Pre-municipal entities and authorities included religious establishments, guilds and Qadi, who was assisted by several imperial senior officials (chief of constabularies, imam, chief architect). The Qadi not only retained his eminent role as the chief judicial authority but was also given the administrative control over a territory as the representative of the imperial government.

As a result of the Industrial Revolution, while altering the existing production techniques, the traditional local administrative system became incapable of meeting the needs of a better and more sophisticated local government. The brand-new local authority was named “Şehremaneti” (16 August 1855). This new structure was comprised of two bodies, namely the“Şehremini” (meaning “Mayor” in Ottoman Turkish) and the “City Assembly,” both of which were led by appointed chief executives.

The first examples of applications of western city planning approach started inBeyoğlu. This place could become the starting point for westernizing of the region with its history, geography, ethnical and geographical properties. Thus reforms were to be started with. Beyoğlu was a chamber that opens to the world as a commercial centre with its harbor, docks and Golden horn. Furthermore its dominance of the Capital City and Bosporus had attracted all foreign embassies. The locals were rich and westernized.

The reforms started with regulations of Beyoğlu and Galata Offices, date December, 28 1857, "6. Municipality Office Regulations" and General Regulations of Beyoğlu and Galata Offices referred to as the 6th Office issued by the Municipality, date June, 7 1858. Beyoğlu was named as the 6th Office despite the fact that it was a first time implementation. The reason that it took this name was that the Municipality unit named as "Sixeme arrondıssement" (6. Precinct) after the "Sixeme arron dıssement" (6. Precinct) in Paris which was the most opulent part of the Municipal unit. The objectives of 6. Office was to organize commerce and to render European urban services.

As the 6. Office was founded; Mr. Mehmet Kamil was assigned as its head. He had relations with the diplomatic mission and with the foreigners. The decision of cleaning, organizing of the streets and construction of sever and water ways and providing some other services were implemented.

As the first task to be done, the cadastre maps of Beyoğlu and Galata have been drawn. Gardens for general use were organized and put to use in Taksim and Tepebaşı. A hospital was founded and the illumination of streets with gas-oil torches was commenced on Cadde-i Kebir (İstiklal Street).

With the regulations in 1959, the cleaning works of the streets were put in tender. The streets were divided into 3 classifications. 1. class street were cleaned on a daily basis, even twice during the summer, 3. class streets were cleaned once a week. The services mentioned were necessary for the elitist westerner section of Beyoğlu. The other sections especially sections like Kasımpaşa and Pangaltı were provided with no services as to cleaning and development.

The Municipality of Beyoğlu was founded in April 20th, 1924. Beyoğlu which included Beşiktaş, Şişli and Kemerburgaz during the first years of Republic became the basis of today’s Beyoğlu, with the separation of Beşiktaş in 1930 and its assignment under the supervision of Eyüp in 1936, and the founding of Şişli Borough in 1954.

In the year 1970, it was divided into boroughs. Beyoğlu which used to be managed by the regional offices until 1984 gained its current statue which was organized within the framework of “Local Administrations Code” issued for Metropolitan and Borough Municipalities in 1984 including 45 neighborhoods.

Municipality Building is at the intersection point of Yolcuzade İskender, Meşrutiyet and First Municipality streets at Şişhane Square. The building was erected during the mayor ship of Mr. Edouard Blacque (1879-1883). The architect is Barborini who caused İstanbul to have other buildings as well. The building having the view of Golden Horn and historic peninsula has also given its name to the neighborhood; The starting point of Meşrutiyet Caddesi was named as the "Office". The building was used as district administration in 1960s, it was converted into Municipality Directorate during 60s, and became the 'Beyoğlu Mayor ship Building' in 1984.

The building which was built on a vertical parcel has been built on a platform which can be accessed from Şişhane Square by stairs.

Constitutional Monarchy I-II One of the first actions of the Meclis-i Mebusan (Imperial General Assembly), which was established with the newly

adopted Ottoman Constitution (Kanun-i Esasi) in 1876, was to enact comprehensive public acts for administering the Imperial Capital, Istanbul, and other provinces. The new legislation for Istanbul conceived the Şehremaneti to be composed of 20 municipal departments and the Cemiyet-i Umumiye-i Belediye (General Municipal Assembly) thus enabling the municipalities to become legal entities. In addition, the election of city councilors was in the agenda, but this was never realized due to the pressure of the ill-fated war against the Russians in 1877-1878.

The new administrative structure foreseen by the Municipal Law of 1877 was only introduced in 1908. In the course of restructuring in the Şehremaneti, local elections were held, and the General Municipal Assembly (GMA) convened for the first time.

However, this new structure was dysfunctional from the beginning; and in 1912, a new law, the “Provisional Act on Istanbul Municipal Organization,” was passed. This law re-organized the Şehremaneti as a centralized body. The municipal department model was abolished, and the Şehremaneti was transformed into a single municipal department consisting of nine bureaus. The GMA was replaced by an Executive Council. A director was assigned to each bureau, the organic affiliation of the GMA members with the municipalities was revoked, and the GMA membership was extended to every member of civil society through electoral representation. After the declaration of Meşrutiyet II (restoration of the constitutional monarchy), Istanbul was turned into a province, where the governor’s powers were also transferred to the Şehremini (Mayor) in addition to all his responsibilities for municipal services.

Şeyh Galip Mevlevihanesi, Seyh Galib, also known as Galib Dede, was born in Istanbul. His father was a government official with some connection to the Mevlevi Sufi order, the order of "whirling dervishes" founded by Rumi.

Galib attempted to combine a government career with the interior life of a Sufi, but he eventually turned his focus wholeheartedly to the spiritual life, becoming the sheikh of the Mevlevi order in the Galata district of Istanbul.

By this time he was already famous for his poetry, known even to Sultan Selim III, who was a patron of poets. Galib composed a divan (collection) of his poetry and a poetic allegory called "Beauty and Love." He is considered to be the last of the great classical Ottoman poets.

Love is a lamp of God, I am its moth; love is a shackle, my heart is its crazy captive.

Since becoming a sharer in the secret of your glance my heart became a friend of the friend, a stranger to the stranger.

Making no difference between dry piety and endless carouse -such is the libertine way of the masters of ecstasy.

The black soil of the reveler's world is full of abundance, the sun of wisdom rises in the tavern jar.

He drinks the wine mingled with poison of the glance of those eyes; I could be tipsy from the languor of those blue eyes.

Take care, do not neglect that sleeping dagger, its tale is always the gossip of death.

Galib, enter the secluded palace of pleasure and see its secret, the wise way of the daughter of the vine is something else. ……………

If I say that the skies have opened, the spring has come, I mean that my beloved has shown me some affection.

If I say that the meadow is adorned with blossoms, it conveys that my sweetheart spoke to me with a smile.

The Galata Mevlevihanesi, or tekke (TEHK-keh), is aMevlevi Whirling Dervish hall on Galipdede Caddesi just south of Tünel Square, at the southern end ofBeyoğlu's Istiklal Caddesi in Istanbul Officially, it is now used as a Museum of Divan Literature (Divan Edebiyat Müzesi), preserving examples of Ottoman literary works, inscriptions and calligraphy, but most

visitors came here in recent years to see where the dervishes whirled. Unfortunately, the dervish hall is CLOSED for restoration. It's scheduled to re-open in December 2012. You still have other opportunities to see thedervishes whirl in Istanbul, however.

About the Galata Mevlevihanesi The Galata tekke has a long and revered history, having been founded in 1491 by a Ottoman grandee from the palace of Sultan Beyazit II. The tekke's first seyh(sheikh, leader) was Muhammed Semaî Sultan Divanî, a descendant of Mevlâna Jelaleddin Rumî himself.. The building you see is not the original, which burned in 1765, but its replacement, which dates from 1796 and was extensively restored during the 19th century, also between 1967 and 1972, and again in 2008. Galip Dede, a renowned 17th-century sheikh of this tekke, is buried in an ornate tomb to the left as you enter from the street.Kumbaracıbaşı Ahmet Paşa, better known in the west as the Claude Alexandre, Comte de Bonneval(1675-1747), a French nobleman who converted toIslam and entered the sultan's service as a bombardier general, is also buried on the tekke's grounds.Nearby is the tomb of Ibrahim Müteferrika (1674-1745), an ethnic Hungarian Unitarian from Transylvania who converted to Islam and established the first Arabic/Ottoman moveable-type printing press in theOttoman Empire in the 1720s.

Galata Meydanı (Ekremin kahvesinde çay: 1,5 tl) ve Galata’nın dönüşümü, Names of the area: Sykai-Iustinianopolis-Galata-Pera The area of Galata was known with different names in the past. Such as Sykai, Iustinianopolis and Galata. Sykai, meaning “figs”, was mentioned in the 1st century B.C.E. first time in ancient sources And was described being accros Constantinople (Stabaro 1854). It became part of Constantinople around the year 425 and was known as the 13th region. (Mango 1991). When Avars reached the area during the 14 th siege of 626, it was still referred as Sykai (Chronicon 2007). Name Sykai remained in use as late as 11 century (Komnena 1996). It is believed that the area had its own city walls as early as the reign of Constantine I in the 4th century (Eyice 1994). City walls were restored in 528

by Justinian I who changed its name into Justinianai or Justinianopolis and recognized it as a city (Mango 1991). For the origin of the name Galata there are several theories. According to these: Galata was derived from “ gala or galaktos = milk, or “calata=stairs leading to the port” in Italian (Eyice 1969). For the etymology of the word “galat = point or peninsula” in Thracian, was also suggested (Mitler 1979). It is interesting to note that an inner harbour in Genoa is called “calata darsana” (Mitler 1979) probably having its origins derived from the Genoese settlement at Galata and referring to the Turkish word “tersane=shipyard”. As early as 717 there are references to the area under the name of “tou Galatou" or “kastellon ton Galaton”(Schneider and Nomidis 1944). Term Pera, which was used interchangably with Galata for this area, was most probably had its roots in Greek. “Pera en Sykais”, is believed to have been in use by the local Greeks referring to the other side of the City (Eyice 1969) The “Pera en Sykais “changed into “Peran and Pera ” in time respectively.

History of the area Amalfitans and Venetians were granted the permission to settle in the Byzantine soil at the end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th century. They were followed by Pisans and Genoese ( Wiener 1977). Genoese settled in Constantinople officially in 12 October 1155. Their presence provoked a group of rival citizens, namely Pisans, and Genoese were expelled from their quarter only to return in 1198 (Belin 1894).

After recapturing the City from the Fourth Crusaders, Byzantines exiled all foreigners staying behind in 1261 (Ostrogorsky 1991). Fearing from the increasing power of the Genoese, emperor Michael Palaeologos VIII decided to re-settle them at Heracleia, but changed his mind to allow them to settle in Galata instead (Nicol 1999). On 1 May 1303 a Byzantine imperial decree was given to the Genoese with the new borders of Galata (Marmara 2006). In March 1304 Genoese obtained a permit to build walls around their city.(Nicol 1999). Bubonic plague, known in Europe as Black Death, reached Constantinople in 1347 by probably the Genoese trade vessels (Treadgold 1997). Byzantines intended to cut customs duties collected by the Genoese to end their financial difficulties especially caused by the bubonic plague. To force Genoese for an agreement, a makeshift navy was shaped by public money, which was destroyed by the Genoese navy in 1349. As a result, Byzantines allied themselves with their former enemy, Venetians (Nicol 1999). In the battle of 6 May 1352 combined Genoese-Turkish forces defeated the Byzantines. This marked a turning point in the history of Galata and Byzantine had no say on Galata anymore (Nicol 1999).

In 1396 former enemies Venice and Genoa together with the Byzantines defended the City against the Ottomans. In the same year Genoa was captured by French kingdom and Genoese colonies became part of French kingdom (Nicol 2002). A census after the Ottoman conquest indicates that the area of Perşembepazarı was inhabited by the wealthy Genoese, whereas eastern part of Galata was for the poorer Greeks and Armenians. Majority of the population was the Greeks (İnalcık 1994).

Venetians, who settled mostly on the southern part of the Golden Horn, began to have properties, probably summer mansions only starting from 1524 onwards (Ağır 2006).

Moors expelled from Spain in 1492 were relocated in the area, and former church was given to their use with the name of Arap camii (Eyice 1969). Arap camii was the main catholic church of Galata for that reason there were a very big number of burials within the building and its vicinity. Most of the gravestones have been found during the restoration of Arap camii between 1913-1919 were transferred to Istanbul Archaeological Museums (Wiener 1977).

Jews of the city, prior to the Ottoman conquest were mostly living in the areas of Eminönü-Sirkeci. Immigrating Jews from Spain as early as 1492 and following decades were settled along the Golden Horn in the area of Galata as well (Eroğlu 2000). In the 17th century the areas formerly inhabited by Genoese were settled by URBAN TRANSFOR MATION: CONTROVERSIES, CONTRASTS and CHALLENGES the Jews (Wiener 1977). In April 1660 a conflagration laid waste ¾ of Galata including churches (Sakaoğlu 1994).

Life of Galata, also referred as Pera by the contemporary sources, was described in detail in the famous work of Eremya Çelebi Kömürcüyan (Kömürcüyan 1988). In a similar manner but more detail was provided by P. Ğ. İncicyan about Galata in the 18th century (İncicyan 1976). A project to provide water, which was scarce in the area, started in 1730 and completed in 1839 (Wiener 1977) added to the value of the properties of Galata. Large portion of the city walls of Galata, which were neglected since the 16th century, were pulled down in the 19th century. (Hasluck 1904) Galata (Turkish: Karaköy) gained its importance by the virtue of transforming into a trade colony of the Genoese and the Venetians, beside then-Byzantine Constantinople. After Ottomans Istanbul, the autonomous status of Galata was left untouched, except that its city walls were razed (except a few disconnected parts in the length of a few meters spotted by the archaeologists here and there). The first time Beyoğlu area (Pera in the past), which lies north of Galata, was settled is during 1850’s, when Rue Grande de Pera (“the Great Road of Pera”), today’s Istiklal Street (İstiklal Caddesi), was opened. Taksim Square (Taksim Meydanı) is even younger, it has taken its existing appearance as late as 1930s. İstiklal Caddesi is Istanbul's prominent pedestrian street. At anytime of the day there are thousands strolling the street and a myriad of restaurants and retail offers in the side streets. This is also the original diplomatic district when Istanbul was the capital of the Ottoman Empire, so search out the various impressive embassy buildings that are now consulates since the capital moved to Ankara. The British consulate in Hamalbaşı Caddesi is worth a look.

Starting its life as a Western/Catholic (Genoese/Venetian) stronghold beside Eastern (Orthodox Byzantine/Muslim Ottoman) Constantinople, Galata has always represented ‘West’. This is quite easily visible from the neo-classical architecture of most of the area, but there is more than that: First street lighting, first underground railway (Tünel, also oldest in continental Europe), as well as first European-style theaters in Turkey were always applied in this district. The decision of Ottoman dynasty to abandon Topkapı Palace in old city for western-style Dolmabahçe Palace near Beyoğlu was a largely symbolic but important act during the last century of Ottoman Empire, when the westernizing effort had a climax.

Galata Kulesi, Originally named the Tower of Christ, this watchtower was built in 1348 at the apex of fortified walls. After the Ottoman conquest, it was used to house prisoners of war and later became an observatory; during the 19th century, it was a look-out post to watch for the fires that frequently broke out in the city's largely wooden buildings. In the 1960s, the tower was restored and a horribly cheesy restaurant and nightclub were added. They have barely changed since, and both are very much missable, but it's worth paying the rather hefty entrance fee to ascend to the 360-degree viewing gallery, with commanding views of the entire sprawling metropolis.

Galata Surları, A Short History, Urban Development Architecture and Today Afife Batur Faculty of Architecture, Istanbul Technical University, Taşkışla, 34437, Taksim, Istanbul, Turkey Keywords: Galata, Pera, Urban development, Architectural development The coastal band stretching from the northern shores of the Golden Horn until Tophane and the slopes behing it have been known as Galata since the 8 th century. Formerly this area was known as Sycae (Sykai), or as peran en Sykais, which essentially means ‘on opposite shore’. It is thought that Galata’s foundation preceded that of Constantinopolis. The archaeological finds here indicate that it was an important settlement area in Antiquity. Although its borders can not be determined precisely, it is known that during the reign of Emperor Constantin (324 –337), it was a fortified settlement consisting of a forum, a theatre, a church, a harbor and bath buildings, as well as 431 large houses. The present fortification walls were constructed by Emperor Justinian in 528. The 2 meter wide land walls surrounded by a 15 meter deep moat were enclosing an area of 37 hectars. It is surmised that the renowned Castellion that used to control the entry into the Golden Horn was built by Emperor Tiberius I (578-582).

Among the trading colonies in the area, that had acquired the commercial harbor functions due to favorable topographical conditions, the Italian presence had begun to be more prominent starting from 10 th century onwards. The conditions that had created the Medieval Galata were being formed in these trading colonies. At first Amalfi, then the Venetians and later the Pisans had obtained special privileges from the Byzantines. The Genovese, who had established themselves on the southern shores of the Golden Horn as a result of their rights recognized by Emperor Manuel Comnenos I (1143-1186), were forced to move over to Pera on the opposite shore when the Venetians seized their territory during the Latin invasion of 1204. When the Latins departed from Constantinople in 1261, the city was in complete ruins. And the economic elations of the Byzantine capital were now completely in the hands of the Venetians and the Genovese merchants. Emperor Michael Paleologos VIII (1261-1282), who was able to recapture Constantinople from the Latins, signed the Nymfaion Treaty with the Genovese and permitted them to rebuild their commercial loggia, their palazzo comunale and other buildings of theirs. And they received consulate rights, as well as free trade privileges. When rival Venetians attacked the Genovese colony in 1296, they wanted to renew their ARI The Bulletin of the İstanbul Technical University VOLUME 55, demolished fortification walls, but could not secure the necessary permission from the Emperor, and had to be contented with a moat only. On the other hand, they were able to formalize their borders as a result of a decree dated 1303. As the Byzantine Empire grew weaker, however, the Genovese took advantage of this situation to strengthen their position, and started to build tower houses along this moat, connected them to each other with crenellated walls, thereby bringing the Galata region to a ready state of defence, and expanded their territory towards the environs of Azapkapı-Şişhane-Galata Tower-Tophane. The Galata Tower was constructed in 1349. According to an agreement, the colony came under the responsibility of an administrator called podesta. The Podesta was considered, at the same time, as the ambassador of Genoa at the court of the Byzantine Emperor. The Podesta, in turn, was responsible towards a city council of 24 elected members known as ‘Magnifica Comunita di Pera’.

During the 14th century, Galata with its urban form and structures used to display its period’s typical features as a Mediterranean city. It had become an important part of the city where commercial relations with the West were established and carried on, and this characteristic of the area had continued after the conquest, as well. It is known that the Genovese had strengthened and elevated the height of the fortifications and increased the number of city gates in 1446, a few years prior to the siege of the city. However, following the conquest of Constantinople, Sultan Mehmet II had demanded the removal of the upper portion of the walls of Galata, and had signed an agreement with the Genovese recognizing their privileges which they had obtained during the period of the Byzantine Empire, in return for their acceptance of the ownership of the region by the Ottoman State. The Podesta had been replaced by a new administrator called Vaivode. It is well known that a large number of Western merchants ha settled at Galata following this conquest. The most important axis of the region was the Voyvoda Avenue (today’s Bankalar Avenue), which extended parallel to the shore line and on which were lined the administrative structures of the colony.

During the 16 th century, Galata had become a triangular area opposite the Historic Peninsula and surrounded by land and sea walls. At the highest point was situated the Galata Tower, while houses with religious buildings around them used to rise towards this center. Furthermore, there were walls within the area dividing it into three sections. The environs of alata were covered with vineyards and orchards. The well known engraving by Buondelmonte (Figure 1) describes the general lines of this urban structure. The miniature painting of 16th century by the engraver Nasuh el Matraki, which describes Galata within its total environment, confirms this settlement pattern During this period, there were taverns, shops and food stores along the shore, in addition to the piers. It is recorded that the population profile of Galata during the 16th century was composed of 35 % Turks, 39 % Greeks, 22 % Europeans, and 4 % Armenians. In the 17th century Galata continued to develop within the walls, while the area outside the fortifications had the countryside appearance. Some of

the neighborhoods of the region, which was systematically Turkified between the 16th and the 18 th centuries, were composed of Turks only during the 17th century and, Galata and Pera consequently, those areas gave the impression of a Turkish city. This situation had continued until the middle of the 19th century. Beyond the Galata walls, the Pera region, which was composed of vineyards-orchards and called as ‘Pera Vineyards’, had started to be built up gradually from the middle of the 18th century onwards. During the 19th century, on the other hand, an inclination had begun in Galata to extend towards the open areas beyond the walls. While the vacant areas had begun to be redeveloped by splendid structures led by the embassy buildings which lined around the main axis called Rue de Pera (today’s İstiklal Avenue), Galata had transformed into an area where increasingly the French, the English and the Italian Industrialists and merchants begun to settle and all types of merchandise from these countries were unloaded, stored and sold. Whether at Galata, or at Pera, a settlement pattern consists of a main axis and of streets opening into it was established. In the second half of the 19 th century, three or four storey solid looking stone masonry mansions had started to replace the earlier timber structures, after many fires in succession. In spite of this, first photographs dated to the middle of the 19th century show that Galata still preserved a particularly dense fabric of timber buildings. In Pera, on the other hand, the majority of the population was European. The masonry embassy buildings were contributing to the region’s European image. In spite of the resemblances in the settlement pattern, a different trend was observed from the point of view of social, cultural and architectural development. The urban pattern of 19th century Galata was different from Pera. In the illustrations, the luxurious way of life, as well as the splendid physical and social environment of Pera was contrasted with the various human groups of every nationality frequenting the narrow streets full of tavern and cabarets in Galata. Here resided a cosmopolitan society least worried about its future. On the contrary, Pera was an ‘aristocratic’ settlement. During the 19 th century, the foreigners, led by the notables of the embassies, the Levantens and the minorities Engraving of Istanbul by in Pera region had led to the birth of an elitist way of life, and particularly contributed to its development during the following century. The magnificent and grand hotels of the region had hosted numerous travelers each day. There was a post and telegraph office branch here. The French and the Italian theatres were located in the central area. It was possible to find many a splendid coffee house and pastry shop here. Besides these, there weredepartment stores especially with French names and shopping centers like Bon Marche, where rich varieties of goods at the same quality as in European cities were on sale. What is more, several of these stores were branch outlets of parent stores in Europe. At the same time printing houses, offices of professionals like bankers and lawyers, consulting rooms of doctors, and pharmacies were situated at Galata and Pera, as well. The magnificent mansions exhibiting the full luxuries of the wealthy Levantens and Greeks, Armenians and Jews that traditionally defined this environment were lined along the Rue de Pera, as well as on the streets leading from it, contributing to the said environment. Galata and Pera regions which resembled Western European cities with their physical and social structures, nevertheless, lacked an organized municipal administration by the beginning of the second half of the 19th century. During the Crimean War (1855-56), modern urban organization was initiated with the encouragements of the diplomats and the military delegations of the European States. In this connection the first municipality was established in 1857 on the model of 6e arrondissement of Paris under the name of `The Sixth Department of Municipality of Beyoğlu and Galata`. Through this municipality new decisions have been taken in the region until the end of the 19th century which became a model for the rest of Istanbul on issues such as street lighting, street naming, road widening and surfacing, provision of public transport, taking measures for the security of the streets, resolving the water shortage problem that had been a major suffering in the region from the beginning, and the realization of the maintenance and the beautification of the area. The most important decision among these has been the demolishment of Galata`s (Figure 6) fortifications by the Sixth Department of municipality. Reestablishment of Galata`s urban structure and determination of its axes have been realized by this radical decision. Presently a very small extend of these walls are standing. Between 1850 and 1900, Galata and Pera have gone through important scale of urban and structural transformations. These changes have resulted mainly from rebuilding activities brought in under new order and planning directives on vacant plots created by frequent fires during these 50 years. Galata has continued to illustrate the characteristics of a Mediterranean port city that it had possessed from the beginning (Figure 7). Galata Tower and a portion of its monumental structures, although many others have been destroyed, have survived till our day. On the other hand, the French, the Italian, the Russian, the Swedish, the British and the US embassies (Figure 8) and their gardens, as well as some splendid structures designed by leading architects of the period who have played an important role in the development of Pera region are still in their original conditions. Although some have suffered in fires and restored later, the majority of the religious monuments are also in their original state. However, the street fabric and the structural features have undergone changes as a result of planning activities of the Sixth Department of Municipality. In the middle of the 19 th century, the original fabric of Galata and Pera, which was essentially of timber, had been gradually replaced by masonry structure, however, this change over to masonry has progressed rather slowly in spite of the fire disasters and its mandatory planning rules.

Pera lived through one of its largest fire disasters in 1870. Starting around Taksim area, the fire destroyed a lot of timber and masonry houses, and from this date onwards, wide vacant plots of land were created ready for important physical transformations in the area between Taksim and Galatasaray. After the 1870 fire, many masonry apartment blocks which are still standing have been constructed in Pera, and along the two sides of Rue de Pera which connects Tünel to Taksim as a major axis, rich apartment and business blocks, as well as department stores have been erected. At the beginning of the 20th century, a new social and architectural landscape has been formed in Galata consisting of mainly banks, particularly the Ottoman Bank building designed by Alexander Vallaury, offices placed in tall masonry hans along especially Voyvoda Avenue and KemeraltıAvenue and their environs. From Voyvoda Avenue towards Galata Tower, many grand structures such

as churches, schools and hospitals have been lined up. In Pera, especially along the main avenues, buildings with ground floor shops and department stores are present. The famous shopping arcades of Rue de Pera, such as Europe Karakoy Square in the 19 th Century Passage, Elhamra Passage, etc. should be mentioned in this connection. Theatres and music halls, as well as famous fashion houses are also located here. During these years, when the rapid inflow of foreign capital had been indirectly transfered to the construction sector, an activism of design and construction effectiveness by architects of Istanbul and of European origin can be observed. Many a magnificent and monumental structure displaying a rich stylistic variety ranging from Classical to Neo-Gothic, from Neo-Ottoman to Art Nouveau have risen along Rue de Pera and its side streets. Following the mini-subway constructed and opened to service in 1875 and known as Tünel, horsetrams have started to run to Galata in 1896, while electric trams have come into service in 1914, thereby making the region one of Istanbul`s most advantageous section of the city from the point of view of public transport for many years. Istanbul with the declaration of Republic, which lost its capital city status, lived certain restrictions in terms of urban functions. In the beginning Galata area was not affected by this situation. The area could sustain its aspect as a trading and business center. However the start of remodernization attempts with insufficient planning projects after the World War II, gave rise to serious changes. The application studies during the 1955-60s not only changed the urban architectural pattern of the city but also serious changes occurred in the social and cultural structure of the city. The varied population structure of the area started to become homogeneous slowly in the beginning and rapidly after the 6-7 September events. The trading activities shifted towards the new developed northern areas and banking sector that was based towards the north side of Maslak were important decreases for the city. The amplification process of the historical Kemeraltı Street and the adjustments in Karaköy Square caused the loss of many historical monuments. The area today despite the losses, together with the preserved historical pattern, monuments with the business centers belonging to the middle upper wealth level, and the trading side made of traditional producers and sellers covers an important historical area of Istanbul. Voyvoda /Bankalar Street is present with all its majestic architecture. The coastal side is one of the vivid axles of sea and road transportation.

In Pera until the last quarter of the 20th century there were not sudden remarkable changes. However the varied opulation structure of İstiklal Street area was changed after the collective pillage acts in 6-7 September toward the Greek orthodox population in Pera, explained by the actions against the Turkish population in Cyprus. In the years when İstiklal Street was not under protection it is seen that the singular buildings were demolished and renewed. The radical change was limited with the construction of Odakule made by the Industrial Chamber of İstanbul, destroying the architectural pattern of the street. To this situation the multy storey business center built in the building land of the burnt İstanbul City Theatre is also added. The amplification of Tarlabaşı Street, which connects Taksim/historical peninsula extended in the west border of Galata –Pera region turned into a boulevard was a radical action. The mention change affected very much the architectural and cultural dimension of the area. The area after many attempts in 1993 was declared to be a preserved urban area and Istiklal Street became a pedestrian mall area. Today this place is considered to be the center of culture and entertainment.

The similar preservation status is applied for Galata Tower and for its surround. The wrong restoration applications and the expected earthquake are among the dangers that could change / destroy the historical structure of the area. Galata and Pera 2 Earthquakes: Short Notes İstanbul is within the area of influence of the 175 km long fault line stretching along the Bay of İzmit from Adapazarı to Çatalca, forming an extension of the Northern Anatolian Fault (NAF). The city has been affected more or less continually from innumerable earthquakes adding up to a long list throughout the history. The scientific investigations indicate that there is a 60 % chance within the next 30 years for this fault linet o produce a high magmitude earthquake, although it is not yet known whether the fault will break at one time, or in two sequences. Within Istanbul’s geography, which is composed of three peninsulas, the earthquakes have different areas of influence. It could roughy be said that the southern shores of the Historic Peninsula and the Asian side (Kadıköy) fall within the epicentre of the earthquakes, while the other regions are affected by them less severely. The most sensitive areas are the ancient axis within the Historic Peninsula called ‘via triomphali’ that extends today from Hagia Sophia to Beyazit (or Forum Tauri), and the coastal strip that begins from kumkapı. The Peninsula of Galata has the most fortunate geographic location from the point of view of earthquakes, probably due to its geological formation. Its name is generally not givn within the earthquake damage records. In addition to its later occupation, it is affected by earthquakes only at the level of the collapse of its low quality buildings and by small cracks occuring in some of its buildings. It is known that from among the high magnitude earthquakes, the region had only been affected by the one that occured in 1509. During this one, the Galata Tower had been damaged and it has beed recorded that the upper portion of the Tower built at the time of the Genovese rule had collapsed. Consequently, the Galata Tower has an Ottoman Period addition on top of its existing three floors. The earthquake of 10 July, 1894, had been experienced almost without any damage at Galata-Beyoğlu region. There were only minor damages such as breakages of window glass, failing of plaster and gypsum, and slippages of cornice stones. On the other hand, the earthquake of 1894, about which maximum amount of information is available, provides interesting observations on social psychology and post-earthquake behviorial symptoms. Surprising details are recorded in daily newspapers and official reports following the earthquake. The earthquake had caused a panic in the city difficult to magine.

It is, of course, natural that all earthquakes of high magnitude may cause panic. Although the earthquake of 10 July, 1894, had affected Galata and Pera various regions of İstanbul in a different manner, mass panic had been experienced at the same level of intensity everywhere. A matter of fact, the hysteria was lauder at low damged areas, such as Beyoğlu, according to the observations of the journalists. It is doubtless very understandable that the residents of the Historic Peninsula, or Yeşilköy, and even the Princes’ Islands, where the damage was very high, to spend the night in the street, however, the fact that the residents of Pera or Şişli regions had chosen to live out in the open for days, and to occupy the Municipal Parks an deven cemeteries at Taksim and Tepebaşı, or by building shanty structures and sheds away from their sound buildings, causing Beyoğlu, for example, to turn into a deserted town, was a phenomenon of social pschology of

pathalogical dimensions. As the incident had begun to threaten the public health, the authorities had to issue restricting orders for the people to return to their homes. The earthquake of 1894 is at the same time an interesting case study from the point of view of post-disaster activities. The lack of serious damage at the Palace of the Grand Vizier, at the Prefecture of the City, and of course, at the Royal Palace had made it possible to carry out these activities. An Official Decree which was immediately issued had ordered public servants to be on duty to carry out mitigation works at all structures in accordance with expert reports. All government offices would be kept open. The day after the earthquake a coordination council was established under the chairmanship of the Prefect Rıdvan Paşa, which immediately had embarked on damge assessment studis, provision of bread and drinking water, etc. The wounded were going to be treated at the Municipal hospitals in accordance with the system applied to cholera patients, in other words, a state of extraordinary disaster measures were put into effect. There were a large number of patients in the gardens of the Military Medical Faculty, and the famous medical professors of the day, together with their senior students, had started to provide the necessary medical intervantions. The newspapers had been assisted to start their normal publishing schedules on 13 July. Many documents relating to these postearthquake activities exist at the Prime Ministry Archives, for example: “Y.MTV 99.56” registration numbered and “6 Muharrem Hicri 1312/10 July 1894” dated report by the Prefectue of the City informs us about the open areas where the public from Galata-Beyoğlu region had taken refuge, as well as the first aid activities providing bread, drinking water and illumination facilities to them. This is a most critical document underlying the importance of identifying open areas of refuge for victims on the first day of the earthquake. Galata-Beyoğlu region had experienced the earthquake of 17 August 1999 with its epicentre at İzmit without any damage. The panic border had narrowed down due to the fact that the southern and coastal areas were in large scale are business districts and the earthquake occurred at 3:00 a.m. at night. The inhabitants of the northern section of the Peninsula, in this instance, took refuge at the Taksim Gezi Park.

It could be assumed that Galata shall overcome the probable next earthquake with minor damages once again. There are a lot of buildings in the region that qualify as cultural assets. Besides the religious and the official edifices, the region possesses a large stock of civil architecture, as well as monumental examples of Afife Batur 10 economic history. Majority of these buildings are assumed to possess the advanced construction techniques of the 19th century. Therefore, significant loses should not be expected in the monumental buildings as long as the magnitude of the earthquake would not be too high. Nevertheless, the likelihood of an earthquake panic need not be ruled out. Especially, during the working hours of the day, the panic risk is higher. Furthermore, Galata’s open areas for first hand refuge purposes are seriously insufficient.

Narrow street fabric, dense building and undulating topography are among the known risk factors. The open courtyards of the mosques and the churches in the region are also very limited. The existing car park area of historic Tophane and the coastal strip of Perşembe Bazaar, as well as the courtyards of mosques and churches, in spite of their insufficiency, could be considered as the likely refuge and first aid centers.

Acknowledgement I am very thankful to Professor Gunhan Danışman for translating the manuscript called as “A Short istory, Urban Development, Architecture And Today.“ References for Galata and Pera 1 [1] Akın, N., 1998, 19. Yüzyılın İkinci Yarısında GALATA VE PERA, Istanbul. [2] Eyice, S., ;“Galata / Bizans Dönemi”, DBIA, Vol. 3, pp. 348-349. [3] İnalcık, H., “Galata / OsmanlıDönemi”, DBIA, Vol.3, pp. 349-354. [4] İnalcık, H., “Günümüzde Galata” DBIA, Vol.3, pp. 354-356.

References for Galata and Pera 2 [1] Alkan, M.Ö., 1999, “Toplumsal ve Siyasal Açıdan 1894 İstanbul Depremi”, Toplumsal Tarih, No. 70, Istanbul, pp. 11-17. [2] Batur,A, Tanyeli,G., 1993, “1894 Depremi ve İstanbul'un Tarihi Yapılarındaki Hasar Üzerine Bir Örnekleme Çalışması: Ayasofya ve Kapalıçarşı”, 2.Ulusal Deprem Mühendisliği Konferansı, 10-13 Mart 1993, Istanbul, pp. 244-258. [3] Batur, A., 1994, “Bir Depremin Yüzyıl Dönümü” Istanbul, No. 4, pp. 24-32. [4] Cezar, M., 1963, Osmanlı Devrinde İstanbul Yapılarında Tahribat Yapan Yangınlar ve Tabii Afetler, Istanbul p. 68. [5] Finkel, C.F, Ambraseys, N.N., 1997, “The Marmara Sea Earthquake of 10 July 1894 and its Effect on Historic Buildings”, Anatolia Moderna, VII, pp.

49-58. [6] Genç, M., Mazak, M., 2000, İstanbul Depremleri, Fotograf ve Belgelerde 1894 Depremi, İGDAŞ Kültürel Yay., Istanbul. [7] Karakışla, Y.S., 1999, ”Arşivden Bir Belge: 1894 Depreminde Ölenlerin Ailelerine Yardım”, Toplumsal Tarih, No. 71, İstanbul, pp. 29-31. [8] Köker. O., 1999, “Sansüre UğramışBir Deprem”, Toplumsal Tarih, No. 69, İstanbul, pp. 4-7.

[9] Öztin, F., 1994, 10 Temmuz 1894 İstanbul Depremi, Ankara. [10] Pamukciyan, K., 1994, “Depremler”, DBİA, C.3, İstanbul, pp.34-35.

Tofre Begadim Synagogue ShareSituated between ‘Felek Sokak’ and ‘Komondo Sokak’ in the district of Bereketzade, the synagogue was opened in 1894. An example of the 19th century eclectic style , it was closed in the 1960s due to a shrinking congregation. Restored in 1999, it began a new life as the Scheidertempel Arts Centre.

Kal de Los Frankos Italian Synagogue ShareBuilt on a plot acquired in Sahsuvar Sokak in Kuledibi by the Istanbul Italian Jewish Association, the synagogue was approved as a place of worship in 1885. kuledibi, istanbul.

Neve Shalom Synagogue

Istanbul –Synagogue is located at Beyoglu, Kuledibi. Meaning the Oasis of Pleace, theNeve Shalom Synagogue is converted from an elementary school gynmastics salon.

It was first opened for services in 1938.

The doma carrying an 8 tons of chandelier, the stained glass decorations that glass pieces are specially imported from England and marble niches are ewtremely distinctive.

Synagogue, in its history has gone through terrorist attacks twice. The second attack in 2003 has causes a lot of damage and as a result of this tragic event 24 people have lost their liver.

(Turkish: Neve Şalom Sinagogu, Hebrew: ‫שלום הוונ תסנכה תיב‬, lit. “Oasis of Peace” or “Valley of Peace”) address: kuledibi street, beyoglu, istanbul, turkey

Quincentennial Foundation Museum of Turkish Jews

Quincentennial Foundation Museum of Turkish Jews, the only museum of its kind in the country, was opened in 2001 by the epony-mous Foundation in the ZülfarisSynagogue, built in the 19th century and disused since 1985..

The hall on the first floor, reached by a staircase which brides once climbed on the arm of their father and descended on the arm of their husband, houses objects, panels, charts and maps dealing with Turkish Jewry’s religious artefacts, their participation in socia life, the first Otoman printing-press, the history of the Jewish media in Turkey, the renunciation of Article 42 of the Treaty of Lausanne, German and Austrian academics who continued their careers in Turkey after fleeing from the Nazis, and Turkish diplomats who managed to save hundreds of Jewish lives in Nazi-occupied Europe.

The Ethnography Hall, meanwhile, contains a nostalgic parade of bridal photograps from the 1860s to the 1960s as well as jewellery and similar items.. address: karakoy square, percemli street, n:1, karakoy

Kırım Hastanesi,

Beyoglu district of Istanbul province, Bereketzade a Scottish Castle Street, view of the structure and is currently used as Beyoglu Hospital. British boatmen from the port of Istanbul, most of the capitulations at the time of their ill treatment on the British government was built for.

Plan in 1904, drawn by H. Adams PERCEY "L" shape with a plan of this building at the corner of the intersection of the wings on a high tower which is visible even from far away. In addition, the extremes of both the front is a small tower. The building and the tower was built of cut stone, a whole is in terms of architecture. L-shaped building, where a tower rises from the fifth floor.

High-recessed corners of base of the tower has an octagonal drum is animated with pillars, these pillars have gargoyles on them out of the flood. Sütunçelerle ornate front facade and a small octagonal deaf, the other is the round-arched windows and articulated by twinning. Here, a second smaller octagon is introduced to the body. In between these two parts of a landing is surrounded from all sides. This octagonal variety of small windows have been opened on the body. The flat top of the tower is a round dome that covers the shipment has a flag on his.

Owned by the UK "The British Seaman Hospital" by the Red Crescent have been transferred to the hospital building in 1924, the Red Crescent in 1933, the municipal building in Istanbul, Istanbul Municipality, and thus became the first hospital.

Wisteria

Place was built as a church in 1868 , then converted to a French school ,finally used as an autorepair place before to be house of Wisteria restaurante.

Luckly, in 2010 it was renovated for touristic purpose.

Eski İngiliz Karakolu, 1904-1919 Prison, 1919-1923 House for British Polis Station during occupation, 1923-1927 logement for functionners, 1927-1933 house for British help committee member Mrs Andrews, 1933-1979 House for Mr. Pierre Fournial (bought for 425 sterline), 1957-1960 logement for religious, 1973-76

atelier for orfevres Edmond and Arman Cendereciyan, 1976-1979 founderie Ohannes Muradyan, 1991 house bought by Mete Göktuğ, 1999 transformation of the house to the restaurant.

St. Piyer and Paul Kilisesi, This church was built in this place by Genoeses in XV. Century and was given to Domenican priests in 1475 against St. Paul church which was converted into a mosque by the name of Arap camii. The church and its monastery adjacent burned two times in 1660 and 1731 and were rebuilt. Present building was repaired and gained its present situation by an Italian architect Fossetti between 1842 and 1843.

Galata Association Building (Old Genes Chamber of Commerce) Between 1267 and 1453, the Galata neighborhood was an important trade center for the Genovese people.

The building of the Association was built in the beginning of the 1300's as the trade center of the Genovese people. The building across was used for the local administration that was constituted of 24 members. The Genovese people established trade centers in different parts of Agean Sea, Foca Izmir, Galata Istanbul, Bandirma Marmara, Amasra, Sinop, Trabzon, Kirim Black Sea Area.

The Galata Association was established in 1994 with the purpose of promoting the Galata area. The Building holds cultural performances, like concerts and exhibitions.

St.Piyer Hanı, Saint Pierre Khan which was built by Comte de Saint Priest , Ambassador of French Kingdom in 1771, as a bank and dwelling house , is a sample of khans in european style in this region. In front side of it ; there are armorial bearings of French Kingdom and SaintPriest and an inscription indicating that Poet André Chénier (1762-1794) was born in this building. Since this Khan was built after the birth of Chénier , maybe this inscription means that this poet was born in a building located in the same place previously.

Podesta Binası, San Paolo and San Domenico Church Arap Camii: (Yanında ticaret hanı) This building was built between 1323 and 1337. It was converted to a mosque by Fatih and known also as Arap Camii since spanish muslim arabs who were compelled to migrate from their country, were settled in an area near to this mosque. Although it underwent a lot of change, it still has some windows with sharp pointed arcades on the side of niche, at Gothic style, the divisions covered by vaults and previous belfry at the type of chuches of North Italy. Now, this belfry is the minaret.

Bankalar Caddesi: In the 19th century, this area became Istanbul´s financial center, and Banks Street (Bankalar Caddesi) is lined by buildings in neo-renaissance, oriental and Byzantine Moorish style. Some of these buildings still houses their original instituttions, while other have changed hands and now belong the institutions like Central Bank and Sabanci University. In Byzantine times the Latin population of Pera was in the majority, but under the Ottomans they were outnumbered by both the Muslims and Greek communities. The Latins or Levantines as they are later became known, consisted of people from diverse Eurpoean countries, predominantly those of the western Mediterranean. Their shared language was Italian until the 19th century, when it was suspended by French, which became the lingua franca of newspapers, theatres and business life of Prea. The walled district of Galata, however retained its own individual character, and the people here though of themselves as Istanbulians,

whatever their race or creed. Climbing Camondo Steps to the street of Kurt Cinar brings you to the Austrian Lycee of St. George, the apartment in St. Pierre Han where the reowned poet Andrea Chenicois thought to have been born, and on the corner of Eski Banka Street the Church of Sts Peter and Paul, the most vivid and nostalgic reminder of old Galata. Galata was the dock area behind the harbour, and gradually acquired a notorious reputation for crime and devauchery. It was a place of merchants and seamend, and in 1853 during the Crimean War, when allied troops poured into Galata, it was here that the Ottoman goverment formed the fist modern municipality to keep the streets clean and well lit. The decision to tax gambling saloons , music halls, and similar establishments here rather than close them down angered conservative Muslims. But there were other reputable institutions in the narrow streets of Galata, such as Catholic missions schools and hospitals. The British built a hospital here for the soldiers during the Crimean war, and a British police station to keep order.

Ashkenazi Jews fleeing eastern Europe and Russia in the 19th century who took refuge in the Ottoman Empire formed a large community in Galata. The Ashkenazi Synagogue is just one of numerous Jewish sites in area which still has its Jewish tailors, the tofre begadim. The Zolfaris Synagogue in Karakoy is now being renovated as a Turko-Jewish museum.

Yuksekkaldirim, the steep street leading up from Galata Tower is famous for its music shops, and above all for Galata Mevlevihane , or dervish lodge, today the Museum of Divan Literature, where the dervishes still perform their whirling ceremonies. At one time the Italians of Galata included such illustratious Venetian families as Perone, Fornettio, Doria, Negri, Drapeis, Navoni, Samsoni, Bruttti, Cavalorsa,Salvagi,Alessio,Paterio, and Testa. All the languages of the Ottoman Empire could be heard in this polyglot area, and the inhabitants tended to mix up several languages in one sentence as Eduardo d´Amicis noted with suprise in the late 19th century. In this time of new building Galata attracted builders and stonemasons from Italy, but as time went on the Italian population dwindled. Today more Turkish than Italian used at the services in the Catholic churches of Galata. Galata has preserved its historic buildings to a greater extent than the most of the districts of Istanbul, and 19th pictures reveal no startling changes. But the same is not true of the cultural and social structure of Galata, which sinking into poverty from the 1960s, is now on the upturn and attracting a new influx of intellectuals, artists and foreigners. The famous Germania apartment block (now Murat Apt. in Serdar-i Ekrem St.) is a typical example of this upward trent. The area around the Galata Tower is gradualy losing its shabby appearance, and Galata promises to soon become a picturesque district with a flavour of Southwest Europe, loking across the Golden Horn to Old Istanbul. As it attracts young people , the area is joining the process of rejuvenation which has transformed Beyoglu in recent years, so perhaps we should all go before crowds move in

Perşembe Pazarı The Persembe Pazari in Istanbul’s Karaköy neighborhood has been occupied almost entirely by hardware and construction suppliers for the past 30 years. But, like most of Istanbul, it is changing. As Caravansarai’s art space is located in the middle of this marketplace, we are conscious of our role in the transformation of this area.

Our intention with this project is to observe the changing face of the neighborhood, from the perspective of newcomers and as artists. At the time of purchase, the Caravansarai building was home to eight distinct hardware businesses. During working hours it fills with men and their customers who spend most of their time talking. Sometimes discussions take place over games of tavla (backgammon.) Stories are shared, information is exchanged and eventually business is conducted, always accompanied by strong black tea and (until the recent smoking ban) cigarettes. Since our purchase of the building, one of their favorite topics of conversation has been us (Julie and Anika) and what exactly we are doing here. They have some interesting theories.

Karaköy has multiple histories, official and contrived, mundane and mythical. Primarily a port neighborhood, various and shifting types of physical objects, people, and commerce have ceaselessly flowed through for several centuries. Its inhabitants, however, have a different reality, inevitably based on their own presence, their individual memories and opinions. The gentlemen in our building write and rewrite such history every day. What is recorded? What is true? We’re collecting all of it--the hearsay and the textbook articles, the websites, the rumors and the ‘undisputed facts’.

Presenting an evolving collection of stories to invited artists, we ask them to create their own myths about the Karakoy neighborhood to be told through any medium they desire. Working with the Istanbul architecture firm Superpool, these myths will be built into the interior design and architecture of the building during the renovation process. Walls, stairs, tiles, door-frames, window, floors, cabinets, vitrines and any and all surfaces can tell the story of the Caravansarai building and its presence in Karaköy.

Fatih Bedesteni: The gradual fusion of the shops between these two covered markets dating from the reign of Mehmet, and even of certain ‘hans’ I led to the creation of the great complex of buildings and streets known as the Grand Bazaar. It has been established that at one time there were,

apart from the two covered markets (bedesten), 4500 shops, 2195 cells, 11mosques and masjids, two fountains for

ablutions, one charity fountain, 16 public fountains and 24 ‘hans’in the Grand Bazaar, which has been damaged by fire several times and also by the earthquake of 1894. The popular belief that the Grand Bazaar is Byzantine is inaccurate.

This system of bazaars and covered markets is entirely a product of Turkish and Easterntraditions. The bedesten is a commercial building whose architecture is entirely Turkish and there are more then thirty examples to be found in places

that were, at various times, under Ottoman administration. There is also a covered market (bedesten) with nine domesat Galata which can be seen by the side of the road at.Perşembepazarı. This was also built by Mehmet the Conqueror. It had

also been envisaged that bazaars would be built around the big mosque complexes to attract a congregation and an income for the ‘külliye’ from the rent of the shops. Thus, bazaars, also known as ‘arasta’, composed of rows of vaulted shops built of brick and stone, sprang up in various parts of the city.

Rüstem Paşa Bedesteni (ünlü bir balık lokantasında balık yemek: takriben 30 tl ya da kıyıda balıkekmek+içecek takriben 6-10 tl)

A caravansarai-type 2 story building built by Mimar Sinan for the grand vizier Rustem Pasa just before 1550. It is said to have been built on the foundations of the Latin church of St. Michael.

Sokullu Mehmet Paşa Camii, Çeşme, The Sokollu Mehmed Pasa Mosque is located along the shores of the Golden Horn, at the foot of the Unkapani Bridge, in Azapkapi, Istanbul. It was originally commissioned by Sokollu Mehmed, the Grand Vizier of Suleyman the Magnificent and Selim the Second, and was constructed by Mimar Sinan from 1577 - 1578 (985 AH). It is also known as the "Azapkapi," after the name of the gate in the Galata City Walls, formerly called "Porta di Sant' Antonio". Scholars believe that the mosque could have been commissioned by the wife of the Grand Vizier Sokollu Mehmed and daughter of Selim Khan, Ismihan Sultan.

The mosque, elevated on a vaulted basement, is oriented slightly east of southeast. It consists of an almost square prayer hall with the qibla iwan projecting outward from the qibla wall and an enclosed portico adjacent to its northwestern elevation. The mosque is accessed by two staircases located on the north and west of the northwestern elevation and they lead to the enclosed portico. The main entrance to the prayer hall was replaced by two smaller entryways placed symmetrically on the sides of the previous entrance.

The mosque is covered with a central dome supported by eight arches that rest on eight polygonal piers forming an octagon, six of them free-standing and two of them engaged to the qibla wall.

The transition to the dome is made with four larger semi-domes located on the vertical axis, with four smaller semi-domes placed on the diagonals and eight squinches. On the exterior the dome appears to be raised on an octagonal drum pierced with a row of windows and supported by eight weight-towers situated on the corners. Four semi-domes cover the four corners of the mosque.

An enclosed portico lit by a row of windows and roofed with a sloped lead roof is attached to the northwestern elevation of the prayer hall. A polygonal stone minaret with a muqarnas balcony and marble grille balustrade is detached from the mosque and connected to the portico through a bridge. A spiral stairway on the eastern corner of the portico leads to the stone bridge that offers access to the minaret. Scholars mention that the stairway's location could be the base of the former minaret, as the existing minaret retains an older foundation in its basement. The mosque is lit by two rows of rectangular windows crowned with slightly pointed arches and additional windows that pierce the supporting semi-domes. Four niches with muqarnas semi-domes frame the main entrance to the prayer hall. Inside, the almost square prayer hall is flanked by two wings

on its northwest and southwest. A continuous balcony, accessed by stairways placed on the north and west of the originally main entrance, runs along all three sides of the mosque, excepting the qibla wall. The mihrab niche, covered with a muqarnas semi-dome, is located in the middle of the qibla iwan (also roofed by a semi-dome). Both the mihrab niche and the minbar, located on the southern corner of the qibla iwan and the qibla wall, are formed of marble. The mosque was damaged in 1807 by a fire, and in 1827, the partially-destroyed minaret was re-built in a bulbous style, while the restoration work for the rest of the mosque did not begin until 1938. In the interim, the mosque was abandoned for over thirty years, resulting in the loss of its decoration (the tiles, the marble door frames ,and the curved wooden window panes). In 1941 colored plaster windows replaced the old windows, a replica of the original inscriptive plaque was placed in the location of the original, new Kütahya tiles were installed on the interior, and the fresco decorations of the domes were redone. In 1941, after the completion of the restoration work, the Sokollu Mehmed Pasa Mosque opened to the public. Later, in 1955, the minaret was rebuilt in a classical style and the muqarnas balcony was added. Behind the southeastern elevation of the mosque, a series of shops (destroyed in 1985) indicated that the mosque was a part of a larger charitable endowment. The only other surviving part of this endowment is a hammam near Yesildirek. After the construction of the twentieth century bridge, the basement, built on wooden piles, suffers from exposure.

Haliç Tersanesi The Ottoman Empire was once a great naval power. The empire's glory days were in the 1400s and 1500s, when its military prowess made western Europeans shudder.

The Ottomans were pioneers in the use of gunpowder artillery, with imperial foundries that poured immense bronze cannon for siege work. In 1451, Sultan Mehmet II conquered Constantinople after a prolonged siege, making it his capital and renaming it Istanbul. In the following 150 years, a succession of warrior sultans expanded Ottoman territory on three continents, laying siege to Nice, Beirut, Damascus, and Vienna, among other places. One memorable triumph was the capture of Rhodes on his second attempt by Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. This one battle cost the Magnificent One some 103,000 casualties.

During this time, the vigorous Ottomans fielded a formidable galley fleet on the Mediterranean and Black Seas. Its admirals provided an almost unbroken series of victories over the Italians. In 1571 their navy was soundly thrashed at the Battle of Lepanto but through the time of the French Revolution, the Ottomans maintained a fleet second only to Britain and France in size. During the 19th century, the decline and decadence of the society was reflected in the imperial navy. Ottoman sultans enjoyed the prestige of smartly painted formations of ships-of-the-line adorned with fluttering banners, anchored and booming salutes, proferring glittering ceremonials for visiting VIPs; below left, a gilded caique bears Sultan Abd-i Medjit on an inspection of his fleet, around 1848. Directly behind the sultan's caique is the battleship Mahmudiye, built at Istanbul in 1843, long the world's biggest battleship. Carrying 128 guns, she fought at Sevastopol in 1854-55; was fitted with steam engines at Glasgow after the Crimean War. Her hull rotted from prolonged neglect, she went to the breakers in 1875.

… Şişhane’ye geri dönüş.

Finishing Institute Design Museum ShareThis private museum is on the first floor of the Refia Ovunc Girls’ Technical Training Finishing Institute which was opened to keep Turkish handicrafts alive after building was given to the Ministry of Education in 1945. The museum was opened in 1997.

Aynali Kavak House ShareAynali Kavak Kasrıi- which has stood by the Golden Horn for theree hundred years, is the sole survivor from a group of buildings known as the “Aynali Kavak Palace” or the “Shipyard Palace” in Ottoman times, It seems that this was an imperial recreation area in Byzantine times as well.

Yapi Kredi Vedat Nedim Tor Museum ShareThis is a private museum in the Yapi Kredi Culture Centre in Istiklal Street. The Yapi Kredi Bank’s small collection of coins and handicrafts started by Kazim Taskent in 1953 was turned into a private museum in 1971 by Vedat Nedim Tör, the bank’s consultant for culture.

Turkish Maritime Organization ShareTMO History and Art Centre. The “History and Art Centre” in the Turkish Maritime Organisation’s building in Karaköy is in fact a museum of civil seafaring. the building, which formerly housed the Maritime Bank, was vacated after the Bank ceased trading, and has been a museum since 1995.

Siemens Sanat ShareLeader of diversity in topical art. Siemens Sanat started its activities as a topical art and artistic activities center on 16 january 2004. Up to date, the Center has accommodaed topical art and artists in order to ensure that as many young artists as posible meet with art lovers Museum of Divan Literature ShareOn top of the hill descending from Beyoglu to “Yuksek Kaldirim” stands an establishment surrounded by colourful trees – the Museum of Divan Literature. The building housing the museum since 1975 is the Galata Kulekapisi Dervish Lodge dating from the 18th century, and the great divan poet Seyh Galib is buried in the garden.

Ottoman Bank Museum ShareThis private museum is housed in the former Ottoman Bank building. The bank, which was founded in 1856 and became the State Bank in 1863, turned into a private bank after the founding of the Central Bank in 1931.

Burhan Dogancay Museum

ShareThe Dogancay, Turkey’s first personal modern art museum, opened in 2004 in a historic 150 year old 5 storey buiding, bought as a ruin by Burhan Dogancay in 1999 and restored over four year.

Galatasaray Museum ShareThis private museum is at the Galatasaray School in Istiklal Street. Created in the 19th century to display the prizes given to students, it burnt down in 1907. It was decided to construct a separate building in 1940 and the new building opened in 1972.

Rahmi Koc Industrial Museum ShareThis is housed in two restored historic buildings by the sea in Haskoy used for casting ships’ anchors in Ottoman times.

These were bought by the Rahmi Koç Industrial Museum Foundation in 1991, and the museum opened in 1994. In houses Rahmi Koç’s private collection, togother with donated and purchased items.

Istanbul as Unity and Trinity – Umberto Eco The “Story of the Slave and the Warrior” in Jorge Louis Borges’ Aleph has a character called Droctulft, a barbarian from

Lombardy who arrives with his tribe to besiege and capture Ravenna one day. Droctulft comes from the forests of his country, he is “brave, innocent and ruthless,” the only kind of settlement he knows of are the huts in the forest and he now sees a city for the first time.

We may imagine him watching the city walls, towers and other things that he had never

seen before as Ravenna slowly emerges on the horizon. As Borges recounts, he encounters the cypresses and marbles of the city, the integrity of a large number of elements that have come together without causing disorder, an organization consisting of regular and open spaces with its statutes, temples, gardens, columns and capitals. Not having known

refinement before yet endowed in the recesses of his soul with the immortal gift of discernment, Droctulft notices a kind of complex process. He kneels instantly and indicates

his defeat in front of the “thing” he come to conquer and destroy. Droctulft is hit by the unexpected surprise of the “the city,” abandons his tribe and fights (and dies) for Ravenna.

I believe that coming to Istanbul after reading innumerable books about the city would reproduce the astonishment of this mythical Lombardian. (For a long time, the voyage to

Istanbul has constituted a literary genre with its own rules and the arrival is always predicated on speed.) Perhaps the reason for this is that some cities resist being described from afar and then suddenly draw one in (London, Rome and Paris) while others reveal themselves gradually without reservation (New York may be considered as such). Istanbul undoubtedly belongs to the second category. At least for those who come from the sea -as it once used to be customary… Whether the boat comes from the Strait of Istanbul or Çanakkale, it passes by the Golden Horn and reveals the city from different perspectives through a kind of cinematographic displacement.

Perhaps the most cinematographic among all descriptions of Istanbul is the one by Nerval, who is little known worldwide.

His is followed by those of Gautier, Flaubert, Loti and Edmondo de Amicis. All adolescents in Italy (at least from 1886 up to

my generation) were raised on De Amicis’ A Child’s Heart, a thought-provoking book charged with positive emotions.

Besides being a good author, De Amicis was a good journalist as attested by his book Constantinopoli (1874). De Amicis’

little-known, lovely interview accompanied me on my first trip to Istanbul.

Like De Amicis, I had postponed this trip for years out of different and totally unexpected reasons. I continued to imagine

this city through photographs, engravings, paintings, stories and even old maps. There are cities that are understood through a coincidence. Others require a long period of preparation and can be grasped through a mixture of in-depth knowledge and the imagination. Perhaps many visited Istanbul to discover it. This is why I had to excavate like an archaeologist to unearth the real city again, I had to process and use what I found below this personal Istanbul.

Another requirement is to excavate what others have

found… This is why I had De Amicis’ text ready when I came to Istanbul. For he had seen what I cannot see today. First of all, De Amicis comes from the sea. On the last night of the nine-day boat journey, he makes a thorough mystical

preparation when he hears the captain announce, “Gentlemen! Tomorrow at dawn, we will see the first minarets of Istanbul.” Passenger De Amicis sleeps little, goes to the deck as soon as he sees the faint light heralding dawn and curses in disillusionment, for there is fog.

But the captain comforts him. The fog will enhance the beauty of entering Istanbul. The Prince’s Islands are distinguished in

the direction of the boat’s bow, and given the speed of those times, there are two more tiresome hours before they can see Istanbul. They approach the city enjoying every moment. After a sea journey of one hour the captain points to a white dot, the tip of a very high minaret. Then, the shapes and colors of houses are gradually perceived below the minaret, the pointed tips of other minarets tinged with a rosy color, the city walls below the houses and their dark towers are slowly

discerned, but the houses stretch in an interminable row and the city appears to spread over a plain. And then, amidst the

fog; “a huge shadow still covered with a layer of fog, a very large, graceful and imposing building rose toward the sky from the top of a hill, it rounded out magnificently in the middle of four very long and thin minarets whose tips glistened like

silver under the first rays of the sun.” This was the Hagia Sophia and to suddenly see it rise in the void must have been beautiful…

At this point the unexpected surprise facing them continues, new towers and new domes, again colorful houses above bright houses are revealed in the morning mist, jagged and capricious, white, green, pink and glittering shores emerge. But

fog still blocks entry to theBosphorus and the boat has to stop. This gives the passenger the opportunity to observe the city acting single-handedly to shake off the fog still covering it. At the end, the ship starts again and from below the Palace hill,

listening to the symphony of cypresses, firs and plane trees, it passes by the roofs of mansions and annexes, domes, grated windows, arabesque doors barely perceptible through binoculars, labyrinthine gardens, passages and secret corners that the passenger tries to understand.

It is unnecessary for me to repeat page after page of what De Amicis wrote about this arrival; the sudden appearance of

Üsküdar in the sunlight, the bright image of Galata and Pera, the symphony of little houses with thousand colors, clusters of trees and “small harbors, seaside mansions, summer palaces, groves, other barely perceptible villages only whose roofs

glistening in the sun can be seen amidst the distant fog, a medley of colors that makes one want to shout with joy, a botanical wealth, something not thought of before, a grandeur, a pleasure, a grace…”

I was unable to see this Konstantinopolis because I came to the city from inside. For as I crossed the Marmara Sea by ship from the Asian shore, at the moment that the city flashed in front of my eyes, it was the middle of the day and there was no

fog. (During my stay there was only one sunny day, I saw Istanbul immersed in light, the green of the gardens and the hills tinged with the color of gold only for one day.) For if there had been fog, as it slowly dispersed, it would have revealed not

streets and villages but the coexistence of domes, minarets and other modern buildings… Nonetheless, a couple of hours after my arrival I was at the top of the Galata Tower and saw the city bathed in the light of the setting sun. And another day I toured the shore of the Bosphorus by car. Even as I crossed the harbor of the Golden Horn, I felt a part of the excitement of De Amicis.

No matter how much may have been written on it, it is not always possible to comprehend a city described by others. At

the harbor of Galata, I cannot insist on seeing the flow of human beings that De Amicis observed from dawn till dusk; that Armenian lady gently stretching her head from a mother-of-pearl and ivory inlaid palanquin, the old Turk with

his silk turban and blue caftan and behind him a Greek on horseback followed by his dragoman, a dervish with his conical hat, Iranian soldiers with their astrakhan calpacs, the disheveled Gypsy woman, the Catholic priest, the old Jew, an

eunuch walking in front of the women of the harem, an African slave carrying a monkey, a charlatan in the guise of a

soothsayer (But may De Amicis really have seen these? Or at least, may he have seen them all at once? Or has he made a patchwork by putting together what he saw on different days?). In any case, I should discover my own Istanbul and leave aside that of the others.

My travel experience tells me that touring in a city by going from place to place by car escorted by an experienced guide

who describes every avenue and square is almost a scientific method to not understand it. On the contrary, the only way to get to know a city well is to stroll alone without asking for help, walk, get lost and if possible not use a plan, to go where you smell something interesting, to follow the path shown by the city sun, the smell and the echo.

It goes without saying that before getting lost in a city one needs to designate a place of return (there is no problem here, this may at least be the hotel) and a point of arrival. Otherwise, if you just hit the streets, you will have difficulty making choices and will never get lost. Getting lost in a city is only possible through erring.

For instance in his travels De Amicis sets out on a clearly defined route which is rather long, traverses three civilizations and

which he will cover on foot. The itinerary is physical because its history is known. From the antique city walls along the Byzantine Palace to the shores of the Marmara Sea and to the Golden Horn… This itinerary is at the same time symbolic.

For the cross and the crescent fought along this route, the city was besieged by Mehmet II in 1453 and captured here.

An eminently sensible, inevitable route from the perspective of a Westerner. Considering that the places visited belonged to Second Rome until that moment, that the entire East was under the sway of Christian civilization and turned into the symbol of the greatness of the Ottomans in the very same place… Big churches turned into mosques and the radical change

of the skyline on the evening of the same day… These thoughts render De Amicis’ visit pathetic. For until Konstantinopolis, he is in the capital of a Christian empire. A target that Western Christianity regards as exterior, where it identifies the

beginnings of decline and avoids because of the difference in sect. When the city becomes the capital of the Muslims opposing Christianity the first shock is gradually overcome (between the 16th and 17th centuries), thus Constantinople turns into an object of desire and triggers the exotic imagination of the West. The city turns into an object on which literary essays are written. While Western Christianity does “almost” not like it until that moment, it turns into the temple of difference once it is subjected to a radical transformation.

To fully understand and be able to talk about conflicting feelings, I chose to look for another face of the city by following another line of siege, and I looked for the traces of Konstantinopolis in 1204. I laid De Amicis’ book to rest and toured the city from the perspective of historian Niketas Khoniates (from the Byzantine side) and Robert de Clary and Cillehardouin, two historians on the side of the Crusaders.

This siege and this fall was even more terrifying, -at least spiritually- it was like a preparation for the Ottoman siege in the

15th century. For this was the first siege and devastation of Konstantinopolis. The capital of Western Christianity had gathered Christian militiamen and had set out to recover the “Holy Land” in the name of Christ.

The Crusaders (the French and the Flemish) depart for the Holy Land in 1203; in the meantime they have to use Venetian boats as Jerusalem has been recaptured by Selahattin Eyyubi but do not have enough money. The Venetians ask for their

help in subduing the city of Zara on the way. So they conquer Zara. The son of Emperor Isakios II, Aleksios, who was deposed from the Byzantine throne by his brother Aleksios Angelos III resurfaces here. The young prince asks for the help of the Crusaders in capturing the Empire, and promises in return a real treasure and strong military support for future Crusades. But Aleksios will later delay keeping his promises. So on the morning of July 26, 1203, Venetian fleets parade in

front of the city walls on the shore of the Marmara Sea. Banners and standards wave in the wind, and shields of every color extend from the sides of the galleys. While the Byzantines witness this scene with concern from the city walls, the Crusaders notice the city gradually emerge in the morning light (like De Amicis) and start to cheer…

The Crusaders’ fleet arrives in Üsküdar to drop anchor. But on August 6, it attacks Galata. Here it sees Konstantinopolis in all

its splendor, and on an instinct, believes that it has to subdue it. Like knights sent to rescue the lovely and faithful bride from her master, the Crusaders do not only want to take back this dazzling beauty but also start to desire it. Thinking that

another cause of their presence is to restore the city to its rightful owner, the Crusaders sack it as soon as they capture it, unconscious, as though tasting a good game.

My visit starts at the place where the siege started, toward the north from the front of the city walls, from in front of Blakhernai (Ayvansaray). A groundless siege was laid here; a fancy parade, a few brave skirmishes, colorful outfits and weapons glittering from Venetian boats and attacking from the sea. Following a more or less straight line along the city wall, they reach Blakhernai, which close to the current day Atatürk Bridge. The first Venetians to reach the city walls put the

nearby houses on fire, the first fire spreads and turns to ash a large part of the city from Blakhernai to the Cristo Benefattore Monastery, and almost the entire section until the city walls.

Faced with these events, emperor Aleksios III takes his gemstones and gold coins and runs away. The residents of the city are at a loss, they rush to prison to release the deposed Isakios and enthrone him. They also recognize under equal terms

the empire of Aleksios (Aleksios IV), son of Isakios who is supported by the Crusaders. In this way the Crusaders enter the city, and as they wait for their payments to arrive, they set camp in Pera and settle there. Isakios and Aleksios have

promised more than they can give and do not have enough gold. They impose new taxes and confiscate the assets of their

subjects. Meanwhile, the Crusaders hold the city gates and start to clash with the locals. A group from Flanders, Pizza and Venice starts a squabble in the street of the North African Muslims. Worse to come, the Crusaders put the nearby houses on fire. The fire spreads instantly, it burns down the city along the Golden Horn, reaches the Hippodrome and almost the Hagia Sophia.

In January 1204 Aleksios Murtzuphlos V has the young Aleksios Angelos strangled and takes over the empire. Afterwards the Crusaders and Byzantines come into open conflict and an attack is launched. During these events the assailants put to

fire a large number of houses again (and the third fire spreads). Ravaged by fire for nine months, Konstantinopolis is exhausted, Aleksios V has fled as well and this time the Crusaders have no one left to enthrone in his place (later on Baudouin of Flanders will be chosen emperor and the Eastern Empire will be administered from the West for more than half a century).Konstantinopolis was sacked in the war, the enemies who were annihilated were the residents of the city.

Churches were ransacked, palaces were occupied and plundered. The residents were subjected to torture because they could not indicate the location of their treasures; the chastity of children was threatened… Western historians usually disregard the consequences of these events. Byzantine historians, on the other hand, perhaps exaggerate a little in describing the destruction of the city. Of course an ugly period was being chronicled; so that when the raging Niketas

Khoniates lamented the fate of the city, he would remember Selahattin, who fought against the Crusaders and recaptured Jerusalem, as a magnanimous person. Still it is also difficult to say that Selahattin, who beheaded the cavalry officers

protecting the pilgrims, was innocent… But no comparison is needed: The fighting witnessed in Jerusalem was between ruthless enemies. This one, on the other hand, was an act of banditry among brothers…Thus I ended my days in Istanbul, looking for the traces of these moments of siege and capture, and later trying to rediscover the route followed by Niketas Khoniates and his family along the burning avenues of the city and the rubble during their flight to Silivri. Following faded

ruins and lost traces, reaching antique Byzantium in the Yerebatan Cistern with subterranean paths whose surfaces had lost their luster, I walked to rediscover the Christian ruin of San Salvatore in the Hagia Irini by chance and almost coincidentally…But the goal was still to get lost. And by losing myself, I also found the city that I did not explicitly seek. Thus on the traces of the siege of 1203-1204, lost in dreams around the Galata Tower and then climbing towards the northeast, I was able to see the ritual of the whirling dervishes. Asking myself where the Crusaders may have set camp, I discovered the night life in the cafés and restaurants along İstiklal Avenue, in visiting the shore where they landed upon arrival, I suddenly

found myself in Kadıköy (or I thought I did but it may be the same), this mosaic of nations and their attires which De Amicis saw on the Galata Tower and infuriated him, a kind of ethnic jazz constituted of Anatolian peasants with tanned faces, youths with their heads covered and bare legs, sailors…

In looking for the monastery mentioned by my historians, I left behind alleys and -suddenly- found myself in front of Mimar

Sinan’s imposing building. From the shore of the Golden Horn where the Venetians and Genoese had settled, I seeped into a long crevice teeming with people and at once found myself in the Spice Bazaar. And even though the guidebooks state

that it is not as told by 19th century travelers, even though warehouses and stores were built in the place where once stood bags brimming with colorful wares and plastic goods reigned victorious, a genius loci which was not visible but could be sensed lingered in the Spice Bazaar. The fragrant voyage to the past and the East ended in a slightly dizzying fashion here. I had to go to the pier to not get dazed, I sat on the tiles opposite the door in Pandeli, which can almost be considered mysterious, and ordered one of the sweets made with honey. The flow of the blood through the veins recalled the excitement of a sin that had been committed.

At this point I could no longer tell if I was in Byzantium, Konstantinopolis or Istanbul. I realized that I made a trip where I traversed three civilizations and three periods at the same time. But this city with three names and three histories was in fact still the same. I thought that it was perhaps not coincidental that amidst the city walls, bearded churchfathers had discussed to the point of exhaustion the secret of the trinity, that is how “one thing” could be at once “one” and “three.”

This is where my impressions of my first trip to Istanbul end. Next time I will discover another face of the city.

Translated by: Seyra Faralyalı ATLAS, 1999 special issue