3. BODY OF WORK Catherine McAleer (MCA07207870) c.mcaleer1@fashion.arts.ac.uk
2
Table of
Contents Trends
5 - 13
Autumn/Winter 2012/13 The Collection
15
Inspiration Concept Board
16 - 17
Mood Boards
18 - 23
Colour Board
24 - 25
Materials and textures
26 - 27
Hardware and details
28 - 29
Development Last Development
30 - 31
Heel Development
32 - 33
3D Scanning and Rapid Prototyping
34 - 37
Experimentation
38 - 61
Initial Designs
3
4
Autumn/Winter 2012/13
Trends
Catherine McAleer will, every season be subtly influenced by fashion trends. Although it is not one of the more important aspects for the consumer, it is essential to recognize the importance of seasonal influences and of to be aware of developments in the luxury footwear market. The following pages offer a snapshot of the Autumn Winter 2012-13 trends which CMAs collection will incorporate and feature in the designs.
5
3D Textural Effects 3D Textural Effects
6
Encrusted
Exquisite stones, and crystals, precious golden treads built up, adorning products, will be a highlight of Autumn Winter 2013. Embellished items are not just limited to evening gowns, as elegant versions of bling will be found on jackets, daydresses and accessories. CMA will embrace the combination of encrusting items to create 3D textural effects through the use of goldwork embroidery. 7
Stitchwork Detail Fine, handmade-looking stitches created by embroidery machines is evident in the Fall trends for 2013. Floral stitches with gold metallic threads are a strong feature which CMA will display in the collection. 8
9
Botanical Influences ‘Natural beauty is on show as one of the key motif directions of the season. Traditional symbols of femininity are combined with natural science. Flowers, leaves and plants are depicted in a range of different styles from kitsch and romantic to stylised illustrations. Techniques vary greatly from embossed and enamelled to moulded and mesh-covered.’ (WGSN) The first collection by CMA will be heavily influenced by the texture, shapes and the curvature of leaves and other botanical items. This will be linked with inspiration from the Baroque era.
10
11
Materials and Hardware There is a strong focus on metal hardware which has an antiqued affect giving products a masculine feel. Tightly linked chains and woven metal elements are integrated with leather taking inspiration from ancient crafts. Contrast materials create a new winter look with a craft feel. Gold is a very prominent choice for Autumn/Winter 2013.
12
13
14
The
Collection The first collection released by Catherine McAleer, will hold a deep memory of the past, which has been thrust into the future. This Autumn/Winter 2013 women’s footwear collection will combine traditional Irish craftsmanship techniques, for example goldwork embroidery, with new 3D rapid prototyping technology. Much emphasis will be placed on the quality and the techniques used within the making of the products. The theme of the designs will be inspired by the juxtaposition of ideas.
15
~
Technology and tradition
~
Baroque and Romanticism
~
Hard and soft furnishings
~
Old and new
~
Feminine and Masculine
~
Antique and Modern
Handmade
Craftsmanship
16
Technology
3D Rapid Prototyping
17
18
19
BAROQUE & ROLL
20
Footwear with attitude: powerful baroque features will show through in the designs for this collection. The heels will be the prominent features inspired by the baroque era. Hoping to marry these characters with a simple yet structured silhouette to create eye-catching stunning pieces with a modern twist.
21
Masculine & Feminine
Much inspiration from mens footwear styles will show through in CMAs first collection with the use of strong sculptural shapes. Feminine touches of colour and delicate stitching will balance the collaboration of both elements. Alexander Mc Queen uses this technique in his work by marring masculine and feminine with utilitarian hardware and soft pink leather respectively to create a unique and unusual piece.
22
Old Hollywood Glamour Fashion of the 1940s and the beauty and elegance of great Hollywood actresses will inspire the overall mood of the collection. Combining the Sophia Loren’s sexiness with the tailored masculine style which Marlene Dietrich exuded, to create a feminine but powerful range.
23
24
Textural Emotional colours
Romantic edge
Pantone Black c
Pantone 548c
Pantone 533c
25
Luxurious luminosity
Striking contrasts
Winter darks
Metallic tones
Pantone 506 Pantone 1815ce
Pantone 5757c Pantone 4625
Pantone 871c
Materials and Textures
26
27
28
Hardware and Details Brass detailing and hardware will be used throughout the collection giving an overall antique look to the range. The Baroque theme will follow through in each of the designs. Careful consideration will need to be put into the placement of these details as too much may be too busy and in turn cheapen the overall look of the shoes.
29
Last Development The images below are an example of a pair of lasts available from Springline Ltd. The tow shape is sculpted but has a soft edge to it. The images on the page opposite are work in progress, which will take inspiration from the last shapes below. Milliput has been applied and will be sanded down to a more appropriate shape. Leather will have to be lasted over the toe as a test to ensure the upper will sit in the right position.
30
Original last shape
Last is to be sanded down to reflect simular shape to those on the previous page.
31
Last built up with Milliput
Toe Shape
Heel Development These brass pieces were sourced from a vintage market and were originally decorative furniture parts. The pieces have been manipulated slightly to fit the curvature of the chosen lasts for this project. By heating them up and hammering them gently they became more flexible, but because of the density of brass too much movement and the pieces would snap. It was decided to look at other options to create the desired shape and effect.
32
33
3D SCANner
The camera to the left is taking multiple photos of the brass piece as it spins on the plate beneath it. This is first step before beginning the rapid prototyping process. 34
Once the image is scanned in and imported to Rhino 3D computer program the brass can then be shaped and details defined. Different tools are used to carve and sculpt the piece.
It can be seen in the left hand screen shot that the right hand side of the heel has been defined more than the left. A close up can be viewed in the screen shot to the right. Once this process is finished it can then be printed in 3D using the rapid prototype machine.
35
The 5� last which will be used for this project, was imported into Rhino using a 3D Scanner. This was then placed into the brass heel file so that the pitch could be obtained. From this, a plate for the heel can be developed, which has room for screws to go through it so that the heel can be attached and it is wearable.
36
As it is an expensive process to produce a the 3D rapid prototyped heel for this project, an alternative solution has been formed. The original brass pieces will be applied with Milliput to fill out any cracks or imperfections, it will also be used to build on and strengthen the shaft of the heels. First a sole board was made and attached to the last, secondly some leather, of approximate equal thickness to that of what I will actually use for the final piece, was attached to the back of the last. As Milliput hardens within hours a sample was made from plasterzine to see what the plate would look like. The results above are shown. This will take more work and experimentation in term two. 37