12 minute read
48 Hours Around Clear Lake
48 HOURS AROUND CLEAR LAKE
Story by Ashley Harrell
A warm welcome to Lake County! We’re delighted—but not surprised—you’ve stopped by, because this idyllic wine and watersports destination is coming into its own. Toss a grape out of Napa or Sonoma and it may just land here, but those fancy neighbors feel a world away. Lake County puts the country in wine country, as we like to say, and to visit these parts is to encounter the wild heart of rural California. Here, you can breathe some of the cleanest air in the nation while cruising around the state’s largest freshwater lake—and never hit traffic. You can hop around to 20 plus family-owned wineries and drink Napa-quality Cabernet for a fraction of the price. You can roll up to a farmstand selling saffron-infused lemonade and pay on the honor system.
A dormant, hike-worthy volcano rises over it all, and the tight-knit communities ringing the lake offer quaint lodgings, farm-to-table restaurants, serene nature parks and quirky attractions. From the drive-in movie theater to the lunch box museum, the world’s largest geothermal energy complex and the annual Pear Festival, this place is a hoot. If you’ve got two days to play, here’s how we suggest passing the time around Clear Lake.
DAY 1
Rise early to take full advantage of this nature lover’s haven, where fishing, hiking, biking, kayaking and birding are all easy to access. If you’re in Kelseyville, fuel up on caffeine and a croissant at Studebaker’s Coffee House, then consider a morning hike up Mount Konocti, a 4,299ft peak that dominates the lake’s eastern shore. From the Konocti County Park parking lot, a moderately challenging 3-mile hike leads you through an enchanting oak forest and past historical sites on the way to the volcano’s highest point, Wright Peak, from which you can glance over the enormous lake and surrounding agricultural land.
The shallow, ancient lake features more than 100 miles of shoreline and is the largest natural freshwater lake wholly within California (Tahoe is bigger, but it lies partly in Nevada). As you glance over the Clear Lake Basin, try to envision it 10,000 years earlier, when the Pomo tribe hunted these forests and fished the lake and creeks. Some of the farms, orchards and cattle ranches within view were established in the mid-1800s, when European settlers arrived, but today six tribes of Pomo descendants remain, as does an abundance of wildlife. Bear, deer and elk roam these fertile hunting grounds, and Clear Lake is known for some of the best bass fishing in the west. Anglers also cast their rods for catfish, bluegill, crappie and carp, both in the lake and on Cache Creek. Right on the creek, Clear Lake Campground is a great place for fishing enthusiasts to camp out, but it’s also an ideal morning stop for birders and kayakers. You’ll paddle alongside Anderson Marsh State Historic Park, a marshland set aside to protect artifacts of the Pomo people, while water fowl, including ospreys, mallards, herons and grebes—which build floating nests in the early summer—glide past. On your way in or out, hit up Danny’s Roadside Kitchen for a delicious takeaway BBQ lunch, which you can feast on at the campground’s shaded, creekfront picnic tables.
In the afternoon, head north through the lakeside village of Nice for a stop at the famous and Clark’s Collectibles Lunchbox Museum. The former firehouse contains more than 700 vintage lunchboxes, along with old toys, dolls, carnival items and other memorabilia, and co-owner Deb Clarke loves to tell visitors about her collection, which she’s been building since 1985. If it’s a hot summer day, don’t hesitate to drive through Upper Lake and over to the Blue Lakes, a pair of deep spring-fed lakes where you can cool off. The Lodge at the Blue Lakes rents all sorts of water toys, including inner tubes, kayaks, paddleboards, hydrobikes, and even electric boats, which anyone can captain.
Conclude a perfect day with American fare at the Tallman Hotel restaurant, Blue Wing Saloon, where you can cozy up on the veranda and be serenaded by live music over dinner.
DAY 2
Begin the day right with a stroll around a green space. There are nearly 30 parks in Lake County, along with two top-notch golf courses and innumerable farms and gardens, some of which are open to the public. At Peace & Plenty Farm, North America’s largest producer of saffron, you can wander the gardens and pick up farm flowers and other products at the honor-system farm stand. While you’re out that way, definitely check out Clear Lake State Park, a 560-acre lakefront park with a visitor center, a museum and lots to do, including camping, hiking, swimming and fishing. If you really want some tranquility, though, venture over to Mendocino National Forest, an expanse of nearly a million acres with no paved roads, where you can camp in a tent or cabin, hike rugged, primitive trails or off-road on an ATV.
Do lunch at the local favorite RED’S @ the Skyroom, an iconic airport restaurant featuring seasonal cocktail and salads and from-scratch California comfort food. Then cruise south through Lower Lake to the Calpine Geothermal Visitor Center, where you can tour the largest geothermal energy complex in the world and learn how its plants, The Geysers, generate clean, renewable energy for customers in 23 states (and also Canada and Mexico). Reward yourself for becoming informed with a dip in the thermal pools at Harbin Hot Springs, a clothing-optional institution with a spring-fed pool area, eight baths of varying temperatures, a sauna and a sundeck spread over 1700 acres. You can even stay the night in a tent or reserve a dome or hilltop cottage. Alternatively, take the afternoon to visit wineries and vineyards, and taste some of the unique wines born of the region’s Mediterranean microclimates and rich volcanic soil. There are about 20 plus wineries dotting the hillsides around the lake, and their high-quality Cabernet and Sauvignon Blanc grapes often land in bottles with Napa labels on them. Around here, the tasting fees are incredibly reasonable though, and even those are usually waived if you purchase a bottle or two.
One of the most distinctive operations is Six Sigma, a historic ranch and winery spread across more than 4000 acres in Lower Lake, where you can sip on a full-bodied cab or an earthy tempranillo in the tasting room, mountain-bike the ranch’s trails or take the excellent vineyard tour in a converted military vehicle. Nearby, Wild Diamond Vineyards and its new hilltop tasting village offer a collection of tables under shade canopies, surrounding what resembles a Las Vegas poolside cabana. The best part: you can sip astoundingly good reds while looking down on Napa (literally).
At Olof Cellars, the winemaker-led tastings are super informative and you can sample some of the excellent reds, or enjoy unique bottles of Nebbiolo, Barbera and petit Verdot. At Laujor Estate Winery, do the classic tasting and ask about what makes the relatively new grape-growing region, Red Hills AVA, so special. Then head over to Boatique Winery for more Red Hills AVA sampling, as well as an outstanding view of Mt Konocti, and continue on to Kelseyville proper, where Chacewater Winery & Olive Mill offers tastings of organic wine and olive oil, much of which is award-winning. Wrap the day up at the Shannon Mercantile, a buzzy new tasting room with 12 wines on tap, plus sandwiches, salads, charcuterie and a regular schedule of evening pop-ups including DoughBaby pizza every Friday.
Take dinner at the Saw Shop Public House, where your farm-to-table California cuisine will pair perfectly with a mason jar cocktail. Then catch a drive-in flick at the Lakeport Auto Movies, or just saunter through the streets of downtown Kelseyville, the closest thing this old county has to an urban core. If you happen to be visiting during the Pear Festival, the streets will be alive with music, dancing, street vendors and agricultural exhibits, and you’ll have no choice but to catch the small-town magic.
HISTORY OF LAKE COUNTY POMO INDIANS
The Pomo Tribes, renowned among Native American Indians, resided in a vast territory in Northeastern California that stretched from the Pacific Coast to Clear Lake. Although each tribe obtains a historical name that is ancestral, the United States recognizes these tribes as Pomo.
The Lake County Pomo Indians have lived and thrived in the Clear Lake Region for more than 22,000 years pre-colonial contact. They were renowned for their skills in fishing, hunting, and exquisite basket weaving using native plants from the lakeshore, to include feathers, tule grass, twined grasses, willow, bird feathers and shell beads. They also gathered native plants such as acorns and tule shoots for sustenance as well.
The Lake County Pomo tribes also obtained a monetary system where they crafted shell beads and magnesite that was in essence “minted” along the shorelines. In fact, the name “Pomo” is derived from the word “Po” (shell beads / Money) and “Mo” (is the underground oven that bakes the magnesite)
Around the year 1800, it was believed that there were between 10,000 to 18,000 Pomo individuals spread across 70 tribes who spoke seven different Pomo languages. The Lake County Pomo obtained upwards of 29 different villages, tribes, and bands around the lake pre-colonial contact, where they are now recognized as, The Big Valley Rancheria, Middletown Rancheria, The Elem Indian Colony, The Koi Nation, The Habematolel Pomo of Upper Lake, The Scotts Valley Pomo Indians, and The Robinson Rancheria of Pomo Indians.
ENJOYING THE GREAT OUTDOORS AROUND CLEAR LAKE
Clear Lake beckons visitors with an array of outdoor pursuits and leisure activities to delight in. Whether your interest lies in fishing, camping, boating, or hiking, this picturesque locale caters to all tastes. A standout feature of Clear Lake is its renown as a top-tier bass fishing locale, drawing anglers nationwide seeking the thrill of reeling in trophy-sized bass from California’s largest natural lake. The plentiful fish population and stunning lake vistas make it a must-visit for fishing enthusiasts. For those inclined towards camping, Clear Lake California offers a plethora of options to satisfy every camper’s desires. The region boasts numerous campgrounds and RV parks equipped with various amenities like picturesque lake panoramas, picnic spots, and hiking trails. Spending a night under the starlit sky amidst nature is an unforgettable experience that camping aficionados will cherish. Whether you’re an avid angler, an intrepid outdoor explorer, or simply someone who revels in nature’s beauty, Clear Lake has something for everyone. With its awe-inspiring scenery, diverse outdoor activities, and cozy accommodations on offer, this destination guarantees a memorable and pleasurable visit for all who venture there.
GO OFF ROADING IN THE SPRAWLING MENDOCINO NATIONAL FOREST
Embarking on a 4-wheel drive journey into Mendocino National Forest from Lake County, CA promises an adventure through rugged terrain and stunning vistas. Covering over 900,000 acres, it’s one of the largest national forests in California. En route, explorers may encounter diverse wildlife, including black bears and bald eagles, while traversing through dense forests and meandering streams. Did you know? The forest encompasses part of the awe-inspiring Sanhedrin Wilderness, known for its pristine wilderness and challenging trails. As adventurers navigate through winding paths and steep inclines, they’re treated to breathtaking overlooks of expansive valleys and towering peaks. The forest’s rich history, from Native American settlements to logging operations, adds depth to the journey. With every bump and twist, thrill-seekers forge lasting memories in this vast and dynamic wilderness.
THE CALPINE GEOTHERMAL VISITOR CENTER
Nestled among the picturesque Mayacamas Mountains lies the Exhibit Hall at the Calpine Geothermal Visitor Center in Middletown. This hall offers a captivating and informative look into the world of geothermal energy through interactive displays that are designed to pique your interest. Additionally, there are Community Tours available to explore The Geysers area in Lake County, a place steeped in both folklore and geological history. Thousands of years ago, magma came close to breaching the Earth’s surface in this region, causing the top layer of rock to become fragile and allowing water to seep down towards the molten mass below. Over time, this process created a vast reservoir of hot steam. Eventually, the weakened rock gave way under pressure, releasing untamed geothermal energy into the atmosphere. Native Americans once revered this area for its alleged healing properties and used it for important ceremonies. In the 1800s, The Geysers were rediscovered by explorers who were both fascinated and intimidated by its natural wonders. Despite being initially dubbed as Gates of Hades by one early visitor, The Geysers quickly became a popular tourist destination attracting travelers from far and wide. However, like morning fog dissolving under sunlight, the tourist interest eventually waned over time. Energy companies initiated efforts in 1960 to harness the untamed power of The Geysers. This region has become a key player in producing sustainable energy in California through geothermal sources. Currently, The Geysers contribute approximately 21% of California’s renewable energy output.
