Fall 2013 Fashion Journal
Brittany Breisch
Table of Contents 1. Entry #1-‐ Women’s Wear Daily 2. Entry #2-‐ Business Article 3. Entry #3-‐ Vogue 4. Entry #4-‐ Fall 2013 Fashion Observation 5. Entry #5-‐Crossover Between Soft and Hard Lines 6. Entry #6-‐ WGSN Trends 7. Entry #7-‐Fabric Trends 8. Entry #8-‐ Color Trends 9. Entry #9-‐ Global Trends 10. Entry #10-‐ Visual Display Photos 11. Entry #11-‐ TV Trend 12. Entry #12-‐ Firstview.com 13. Entry #13-‐ Career Descriptions 14. Entry #14-‐ Fashion “Don’ts” 15. Entry #15-‐ Possible Career Opportunities
Entry #1 WWD-‐ “Amazon’s Bold Beauty Play” October 11, 2013
Amazon recently launched a new section of its online store called luxury
beauty. It includes department store brands such as Nars, Deborah Lippmann, and Dr. Brandt. Amazon has made the layout of this section cleaner and more appealing using exclusively in-‐house photographers. This is aimed at the luxury shopper who also uses Amazon. Chance Wales, Amazon’s director of beauty, health, and personal care said “We have luxury shoppers, what we have been lacking is luxury brands, and we hope this is the first step to marry our customers needs with what brands expect in terms of displaying and selling their luxury products.”
One issue Amazon could face is discounting. Under normal circumstances,
many of their customers expect items to be deeply discounted. If they end up not discounting, customers might be less likely to even explore the new section of the site and stick with their usual retailer for that particular product. If they do end up discounting, they will violate brand agreements, anger other retailers of the brand, and basically run this division into the ground. Luxury beauty on Amazon could be a great thing because of its convenience and accessibility. It is too new to predict the outcome entirely.
Entry #2 Business Week-‐ The Anonymous Fashion Line That’s Cleaning Up on Wall Street November 22, 2013
Vince is one of my most loved brands. It recently was valued at $20 a share
for the original IPO. This article talks about how no one really “talks about” Vince. It is more of an understated elegance of basic everyday clothing. There are no flashy labels or monograms, not even a small attached tag on the lower corner. Wall street has been increasingly interested in fashion brands going public ever since Michael Kors did with great success in 2011. Most brands are essentially hunted down to find out if they have any intention of listing on the market. Vince was never a part of these discussions. When they did decide to go public, they did so under the radar and with great success. President of Vince, Karin Gregersen, has also named herself chief creative officer making her heavily responsible in all areas of the brand. She was at Chloe for thirteen years and Givenchy before that. Vince is in good hands.
Entry #3 Vogue
The fur trend taking place during the springtime is amusing and unexpected. I think it is definitely due to designers trying to be different. Both up and coming and well established designers ultimate goal is to make their mark on the season and the trends. There is no better way to do that than mocking seasonal dressing altogether. Fur sandals and fur lined sunglasses? Talk about irony. Those pieces will be getting attention from fashionistas and everyday dressers alike. Personally, I probably wouldn’t be wearing any of these during the warmer months, but as referenced in the article, if traveling, one of these things might be a fun addition to my suitcase.
Entry #4 Fall 2013 Trend
A trend that I have been overpowered with this fall is Women’s combat
boots. They are everywhere. They have been adorned with gems and glitter, studs and metal pokers, and even lace. One pair had twine, actual string, as the laces. While I am all for embracing trends created by military wear, for their form and functionality, this has taken it to the extreme. In my opinion, women’s fashion is meant to be beautiful, not rough and rugged. There is a time and a place for most everything, but combat boots have no room in my closet. Last fall, in 2012, boot trends leaned towards the knee high riding boot. The adventurous shopper might have tried a moto boot with a buckle or two. This year, boots that are not aggressive and bold are few and far between. As far as similarities go, I believe boots in general will always be a fall wardrobe staple.
Entry #5 Trend Crossover The first crossover I noticed was a color story trend. They are both a pale, gold metallic. The metallic is seen more in the hard lines part of the store but a pale gold matte color is found often in soft lines.
Black and white is everywhere. It is one of my favorite trends and it comes in all patterns and forms. It is clean and allows for a pop of color in apparel or home goods. Here it is featured on a pillow, and on a long sleeve knit tee.
The last trend I found was large stones being used for statement necklaces, and on home items such as frames, pillows, and even weaved into throws. Sparkle will never go out of style.
Entry #6 WGSN Trend Reports Pale metallic gold, black and white, and embellishments are all found on WGSN in some form. They are trends that are especially popular this season, but black and white, for instance has definitely been a staple in both home décor and apparel for decades. Embellishments have also been around since the beginning of haute couture. Individual beads and gems hand sewn to the beautiful coats and dresses made to order. In essence, these trends will live on forever in their own ways. Metallics were reported to be trending in womens and juniors party wear look.
Black and white will reign in women’s knitwear, particularly the v-‐neck cardigan.
And embellishments are staying strong in womenswear. Including some of the oversized acrylic stones shown from Entry #5.
Entry #7 Fabric Trends
The three fabrics I chose were from Autumn/Winter swatch collections. The
first is a pink, lilac, and grey snakeskin pattern. It is 100% silk. This is on trend and would look good as a women’s collared button up or flowy blouse. The pattern would give the garment movement it wouldn’t otherwise have.
The second swatch is a natural colored knit. It looks warm and would be
perfect for a dead of winter sweater or cardigan. It would also be the right material for a cowl neck or infinity scarf.
The third swatch is a grey insulated fleece. It would be the right material to
use in outerwear. Similar to the “puffer” jacket, this could be featured on the inside of the garment for warmth, or the outside for style.
Entry #8 Color Trends
For color trends I focused on menswear autumn/winter. The three most
popular choices I found were raisin red, dark indigo, and grey. Raisin red is being brought to menswear after a huge oxblood breakout in womens apparel. Raisin red is featured in outerwear and suiting for the most part. Designers like common people, Damir Doma, and Martine Rose are all featuring raisin red in their collections for next fall.
Dark Indigo has always lingered here and there, particularly in menswear.
Focusing on the pairing of blacks and oranges with dark indigo will help keep you on trend and fresh. Looks from Zara, Hermes, and Roberto Cavalli all feature dark indigo.
Finally, the least surprising of the bunch back for another autumn and winter
season; Grey is the most underrated neutral. Grey will be in men’s apparel, outerwear, athletic wear, and basics. Everyone from Topman to Margiela will be using grey in their palate.
Entry #9 Global Trends London-‐Women’s Footwear and Accessories
For the most part the day-‐to-‐day footwear is becoming more “androgynous”
and featuring more buckles and chunkier heels. Fortunately, special occasion shoes remain ladylike and detail oriented, some including pony hair finishes. Embellishments are also found on some of the accessories for the season, while other messenger bags are giving off the “I could care less” vibe. I believe that we already are seeing these trends in the US. Beijing-‐ Women’s Footwear and Accessories
In Beijing, women’s shoes are being considered “grunge” just like they are
labeled previously in London, and in the US. However, their grunge boot looks downright ladylike next to a grunge boot here. Fabric blocking for comfort and style is also happening in shoes. One particular trend I liked was the borrowing of men’s tailored like lacing on women’s oxford pumps. It is masculine and pretty at the same time with the help of black patent. I do believe that while we have some similar trends going on in the US, eventually our heavier grunge will filter over to Beijing, and I can only hope for more of their delicate finishes to come our way.
Entry #10 Visual Displays Target: At Target, I always appreciate the variety offered. However, the placement of a rack of bikini swimsuits next to an entire rack of winter coats is very confusing. I would not have mapped my displays out in that way.
Another photo from Target shows their extensive colored hosiery selection. I think this is eye catching and bright. I might suggest lighting it differently from the top of the racks, but everything else is spaced equally and put together. It is also a good way to lure customers into an impulse buy. The colors are attractive and the product they boast hangs neatly under the colored mannequin leg.
Topshop: This first photo from Topshop shows just how generally cool it is, cluttered but cool. In the shoe room, there are mirrors everywhere and this makes the room seem infinite. The chairs used for fitting are fun and look like they belong in a girly dressup room. Even the shelves on the wall are unique.
The next photo from Topshop shows one of the many themes throughout the store. Fun prints on jersey tops and silk blouses hang on a black and white wall behind a large zebra statue. The whole scenario is just weird, but oddly likeable in moderation. It is a clean and happy place to shop or browse.
Entry #11 TV Fashion I watched “New girl” for the first time this past week. I think it is such a cute show and might be a little cheesy but it overall in good taste and funny. The main character, Jess, is in her mid-‐twenties and the fashion focus of the show. She wears bright colors, girly dresses and skirts, and goofy real world looks. I believe her style will be emulated by girls teens through their twenties who watch the show. It is accessible and real, unlike the Lanvin dresses on Gossip Girl. Things that can be taken away are her pairing of pattern on pattern and color on color. From what I have seen, her signature look is a knee length dress with a cardigan. Her disregard for “fashion” is a fashion statement in itself.
Entry #12 Firstview.com The collection I chose to look through was by Blumarine. The collection was their runway ready-‐to-‐wear. This was from the spring/summer 2014 Milan show. I know that Blumarine is carried in select Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus stores. Blufin, its parent company also has boutiques covering Italy and spanning across the world. This look is one of the standouts from the collection. Combining the grey and black neutrals with sparkling stones detracts from the “ombre-‐ness” of it giving it more of an all over shine. The sheer sleeves make the shape of the dress less harsh and more fun. The cinch at the waist would look flattering on almost any body type, which is not typical of a Blumarine garment. I can appreciate this, as I am a huge fan of their designs, yet not rail thin like many of their models.
Entry #13 Career Descriptions Fashion Designer: A fashion designers main responsibility is to pay attention to their inner designer. They are in this role because they are talented and unique. Whether you specialize in bespoke suits or athletic wear, there is a customer base out there that is paying attention to what you are doing and choosing to buy your product. The initial vision, specs, and final design flats come from this person or team. Trends are important, but staying true to your own design aesthetic will typically get you farther. Buyer: A buyer works with the designer/design team, planners, and brand representatives to purchase what they believe will sell in their particular department or store. They must stay within a designated budget and work with vendors on delivery dates and quality expectations. Buyers must also keep trends in mind, along with their target customer’s style and projected purchasing decisions. Product Development Manager: The product development manager is highly involved in all aspects of the production of the garments or items for the designer. They inspect the materials used and make sure everything is up to code. They build project boards and create a timeline for production and distribution. In this position, you are expected to work well with others and build a team like atmosphere within your company or division.
Entry #14 Fashion “Don’ts”
While denim is always in style in some form, this is overkill. The combination of both of their looks being denim clad makes it even worse. Whoever styled them had to have an odd sense of humor or underlying disdain of pop music in general. The fact that their accessories are denim as well makes this overpowering. While the cut of the dress is interesting and trendy, it is not appropriate for the event. This look is not complementary to their features and draws the eye away from them instead of towards their face.
A major fashion “don’t” is clothes that do not fit. The fit of a garment has everything to do with how it looks on the person. It can also change the style of the clothing and misinterpret what the designer had intended it to look like on the body. If something does not fit, it is not going to look “right”.
Winter boots, combined with shorts is a fashion “don’t”. Confused wearers cannot make up their mind about what season and climate they are in. You would never see this on a runway. The look is far from put together. It is not a trend, it could possibly be considered a fad but even that is giving it too much credit.
Entry #15 Career Opportunities Market Research Analyst: No matter what area of fashion you specialize in, market research can make or break your brand. Having an idea of what the customer would purchase will put your company one step ahead. It will allow for a better sell through of your product and in turn, higher profits. I would like to have this position because I am extremely interested in the behavioral aspect of fashion and why people buy the things they buy. I have also taken a few of my elective credits in social sciences. Sales/Brand Representative: A “brand ambassador” is essentially a walking representative of the brand or company. They work with all forms of communications for the brand. Keeping up with trends and what is going on in the industry keeps you a competitive candidate for this position. Meeting with buyers, looking at samples, and getting the product into retail platforms are the key responsibilities. Pitching the product to the press, brand interviews, and tracking existing orders go along with it as well. This position is appealing to me because it seems to require many professional relationships and a high level of organization that I believe I possess. Fashion Publicist: I think starting out my career in fashion as a publicist would introduce me to many brands and retailers. This would give me the opportunity to decide which areas fit within my own expectations. I would succeed in this role because I am often the
middleman in real life situations between my parents and siblings and between friends, but also in a professional manner with communications at work.