Farm to Table

Sq-use us!

HEALTHY FARE IN WINTER? YES, WAY. CHELSEA’S RESTAURANT & BAR ON ONONDAGA HILL SHARES A SIMPLE, HEARTY RECIPE FOR STUFFED SQUASH.

Farm to Table

BY MJ KRAVEC PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALAINA POTRIKUS

It’s a rainy Wednesday afternoon as Marty Richardson leads this writer and photographer up the stairs of her new restaurant, Chelsea’s Bar & Restaurant (formerly Kelley’s Bar & Restaurant) on Onondaga Hill. The group passes a waiter carrying grilled cheese and tomato soup — just the thing for a day like today. Richardson says, “That would be my last meal — tomato soup and grilled cheese.”

Despite the rain and COVID-19, Richardson is upbeat and busy. As the owner of three restaurants (she also owns Nesticos… Too and Rise & Grind Cafe), she opened Chelsea’s in October and describes herself as “a maniac” for “opening a restaurant during a pandemic.” Yet Richardson is cautiously optimistic, given the steady stream of masked customers at socially distanced tables.

She introduces her guests to Chef Terrence McRae, who, clad in a black fedora, brings out his masterpiece of Stuffed Squash — a hearty and healthy combination of local delicata, kale and grains.

“We try to utilize as many local ingredients on the menu as we can,” says McRae. “We use anything from onions in our French onion soup, cheese curds and cheeses from local farms on our charcuterie board, to honey and/or maple syrup in our dressings and compound butters.”

Come winter, finding local produce can be a challenge in Central New York. But stored apples, pumpkins, garlic and squashes, winter kale and locally made specialty foods all offer hearty possibilities. McRae makes the most of these offerings in this highly satisfying, healthful and optionally vegan dish.

Richardson and McRae believe in making use of as many local farms as possible. “We should promote the great work that these farms do and what we have to offer in terms of fresh local products the best we can,” he says.

McRae’s recipe for stuffed squash is a simple and seasonal meal that’s hearty without being heavy, filling yet versatile as it can be made vegan by leaving out the cheese.

“You can add chicken, steak or blackened shrimp if you want to spruce it up a bit,” says McRae. “We use local squash, kale and mix it with a blend of red quinoa, corn, jasmine rice and roasted vegetable.”

Richardson advises pairing it with red wine. Or even the restaurant’s signature Maple Bacon Manhattan — a warming combination of Jim Beam, sweet vermouth, splash of maple syrup, orange garnish, cherry and a slice of bacon. She makes one up right away so we can shoot it. And sample.

“That’s one of our signature fall drinks, but we’ll be offering that this winter,” she says. “That one’s been very popular.” Chef Terrence McRae presents Stuffed Squash topped with a dollop of Mascarpone.

Stuffed Squash

Ingredients

1 acorn or delicata squash 1-2 cups of cooked quinoa blend of your choice depending on size of squash 1 cup cooked jasmine rice ½ cup butter or olive oil, plus 1 Tbsp. 3 cups kale blanched and chopped (optional additions include ½ to 1 cup cooked corn, roasted vegetables) Salt and pepper for taste 1 Tbsp. Mascarpone cheese or cheese of choice (optional)

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. While oven is heating, carefully cut squash in half lengthwise (for 2 servings) or about 1 inch from the top horizontally (for 1 serving) Rub salt, pepper and about 1 Tbsp. of oil to the inside of the squash and place on baking sheet, skin side up. Bake until squash is soft to the touch (about 3045 minutes). Remove from oven and set aside. While squash is cooking, place oil or butter in pan on low to medium heat and sauté kale until it softens but still retains crunch. Add cooked quinoa and rice and sauté together about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Add quinoa/rice, kale mixture to the inside of the squash and bake for an additional 10 minutes. Remove from oven and top it with mascarpone or your favorite cheese, meat, seafood, or leave as is for a vegan option.

What can you pair it with?

“This dish pairs well with red wines, such as pinot noir, red blends, cabernet sauvignon and especially with bourbons, scotch and some white wines due to the sweetness of the squash and the hearty aspect from the quinoa,” says McRae. Left, Chelsea’s Maple Bacon Manhattan.

Chelsea’s Restaurant & Bar is at 5076 Velasko Rd. in Syracuse. Visit chelseasrestaurantandbar.com.