4 minute read
In the Green Room
Riding waves is the sweet spot for Illawarra-born surfing star Sally Fitzgibbons
Images Shannon Glasson
Professional surfer Sally Fitzgibbons was basically born on a board. For the girl from Gerroa, who became World Junior Surfing Champion at just 16, the water has always been her wonderland. As a kid, she also played soccer, touch, footy and was a champion runner, even winning two gold medals for the sport at the Youth Olympics in 2007. But the pull of the ocean was too strong for Sal.
In her first attempt to reach the women’s elite World Surfing Tour via the World Qualifying Series, she set a record by wrapping up the 2008 series in the first five events to become the youngest qualifier in history! And since joining the Women’s World Surfing League tour 11 years ago, Sally has remained in the top 10 athletes in the world – no easy feat. Despite some near-misses and heartbreaking setbacks, the 28-year-old has her sights firmly set on that World Title.
Really, the legendary Sal needs no introduction. We chatted to the quintessential surfer girl to find out what it’s like staring down the barrel of a wave and to get the inside scoop on her favourite local breaks…
Q: Growing up in beautiful Gerroa, did you spend your childhood in the ocean?
A: I was so fortunate to grow up in the Illawarra. I was surrounded by the ocean, living out on the headland, and for me and my three older brothers, it was our playground. Every day our parents would take us down to play on the sand, explore the rocks and ride waves on all sorts of boards. It was so fun.
Q: You started off surfing with your brothers – did it come naturally to you?
A: My brothers led the way with everything I did. Their surfing got better and better, and soon they were out the back of the line-up catching waves by themselves. I remember wanting to be out there with them so badly, so I just kept asking my dad to push me on more waves and to take me out the back where the big kids were. I definitely loved the rush of riding my first waves. I loved having my friends and all our dads around pushing us into millions of little foamies and cheering us all the way to the beach – it was the best feeling.
Q: When and how did your journey into competitive surfing begin?
A: My brother, who is a year older, started competing in surf competitions when he was 11. I was going along to watch him anyway, so after the first few he did I learnt the rules and was all up in my parents’ grill asking them to sign me up. I started my first few grom comps when I was 11 and loved it. I especially loved travelling as a family and spending that time adventuring around Australia. It was an awesome way to see some of the best beaches on our coastline, meet new friends and do what I loved – riding waves.
Q: Winning the World Surf League Qualifying Series at only 17 must have been an amazing feeling, since then, what’s been your biggest achievement?
A: My biggest achievement has been staying in the top 10 in the world in my last 11 years on the World Tour. The wins, the losses and the desire for continual improvement and growth; the enthusiasm to keep doing all the little intricate parts of my training that build the bigger picture of each performance and title campaigns; having the courage and willingness to be vulnerable to keep putting myself out there to go for my goal of being world champion even after the heartache of previous years. To me these are the reward… the big achievement and satisfaction is in the challenge. It's not perfect, the finish line is always moving, there are many uncontrollable factors and you experience every emotion under the sun, but this is what I love about it... I never know what is going to happen next.
Q: How do you mentally prepare and stay fit for competition?
A: Every single day I pay forward to my body, mind and craft. All these components have to be in the right zone and space come competition day. I've always loved the training side of my sport and staying fit, there is something beautiful in the discipline in doing it day-in and day-out. My training includes strength, mobility, pool work, flexibility, breath work, cardio circuits, surf specific drills, ocean fitness, mindfulness work, reaction training, video review, recovery sessions and treatment from my physio… plus a whole lot of fun.
Q: Are you ever scared in big swell?
A: That's the best part about big waves – you get these nervous butterflies and instant perspective on how small you really are and how powerful the ocean can be. To ride a big wave is such a gift, you get the transfer of energy from the wave through your whole body when you ride it. It's such a rush and if you are good enough to make the wave, it is like a, 'did that just really happen?’ moment. It's super cool. The confidence in riding bigger swells comes from your training – and my best place mentally is a place of calm and controlled breathing, that's where I make all my best decisions.
Q: What’s your ultimate goal in surfing?
A: To discover what my ‘best’ could be and for that best to lead me to a World Title.
Q: You’ve been on the tour for more than 10 years, what do you miss most about home when you’re away?
A: Connection to all my favourites – favourite surf spots, my favourite people, favourite foods. I’m super grateful to have grown up in Australia with all its privileges and with a loving community around that supports and backs me in everything I do.
Q: Where are your favourite local surf breaks in the Illawarra and why?
A: We have some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. It's crazy living on the South Coast and having so much to pick from. Gerroa is my home beach and I love it to bits. Then further north, I like Shellharbour and the stretch from North Wollongong to Stanwell Park. I say stretch because no matter where you end up along there you’ll bump into some quality waves.