Mastering THE MENU

STORY AND PHOTO BY PATRICK YOST

On March 11, Michael McNeill will celebrate an notable anniversary. McNeill, a more-than affable 60-year-old distinguished man, was named the second youngest Master Sommelier in the nation in 1993 while he was working with Madison’s Preston Snyder at The Ritz-Carlton, Atlanta.

For an idea on the significance of the moment, know there are, currently, only 269 Master Sommelier’s in the world; 172 in the United States.

For Snyder, McNeill, who is currently the director of fine wine for the Georgia Crown spirits distribution company, has added his expertise and knowledge to create a unique, fine dining space in a downtown building that once held a wagon works company and, later, a funeral home. Snyder consulted with McNeill early to make The Dining Room a sophisticated and warm experience.

“Preston and I wanted to create an experience that is classic,” says McNeill. “We wanted to show the classic pairings with wines that have been around for centuries.”

During an expansive 10-course New Year’s Eve Dinner at The Dining Room on Hancock Street (located directly behind the Hart and Crown on East Washington Street) a caviar osetra, buttermilk potato pancake, dill dish was paired with the Rolland Champion Grand Cru Brut Champagne. A Miane Lobster Bisque third course came with Hugel Reisling. McNeill says the work through

Georgia Crown to The Dining Room has been gratifying and fun. “The customer’s reaction, that’s what we are working for. These kind of dining experiences are rare these days.”

McNeill says he not only studies the menu to determine which wine will make the dish sing, but he also becomes familiar with a chef’s tendencies.

“The sommelier is an extension of the chef’s hand,” he says.

“I look at the heart of the dish, the method of preparation and third, what’s the strongest flavor of the dish.”

The Dining Room Chef Ryan Caldwell has been an interesting partner, McNeill says. “He is doing some really great dishes.”

For Snyder, who was a waiter at The Ritz-Carlton, Atlanta, when McNeill was on the rise, working with the Master Sommelier, and friend, has been fulfilling on several levels. McNeill’s knowledge, paired with Snyder’s hospitality heritage (“My instincts are still a waiters,” he says) created a nexus of knowledge and heart.

“Wine is food,” says McNeill. “Wine is art, wine is cultural, wine is terroir. It’s what people care about.”

“We are excited he was creating the experience,” Snyder says. “This doesn’t exist anymore.” candied almond, lace cookie served with Collosi Lipaarta Passito, Sicily, Italy.

The Dining Room also offers one set of alternates for each seating. For instance, on January 14, a diner could replace the third course trout with a roasted Callidora Farms ribeye, Bread and Butter Farms collard greens, turnip fondant with hollandaise served with a 216 Chateau Trois Moulins, Haut Medoc, Bourdeaux, France.

Caldwell says the beauty of The Dining Room is the challenge of utilizing locally sourced ingredients to make the experience shimmer.

“From today to yesterday it changes. You have to pivot. That’s the exercise, you have to make the product shine.”

Reservations for The Dining Room are requested. Go to the Mad Hospitality website at www.mad-hospitality.com/the-dining-room and follow the prompts. Cost is $95 each for the meal and an additional $35 if the wine pairing is selected. The restaurant is open from Thursday to Saturday with the last seating at 8:30 p.m. During Masters Week, the restaurant will be open each day.