THE 9TH ANNUAL COCHON555 GRAND FINALE
October 1st 2017
A SPECIAL THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO HAS JOINED US ON THIS AMAZING JOURNEY. Events like COCHON555 support local agriculture and create word-of-mouth marketing for the farms and those raising heritage breeds. The news of the events develop deeper interest in existing and up-and-coming restaurants to join the conversation of supporting local food.
WE WOULD LIKE TO THANK OUR SPONSORS FOR SUPPORTING THE VISION AND PAVING THE ROAD TO A BETTER FOOD SYSTEM 2017 GRAND PRIZE PRESENTED BY
The winning chef of Grand Cochon will receive a 4-day wine experience to Rioja, Spain’s most prominent wine region. The grand champion will also take home a selection of kitchen awesomeness from Williams-Sonoma plus a brand new wood-fired 34 Pro Series grill from Traeger. SPOTLIGHT SPONSORS
¨
BARREL-AGED SPONSORS
HERITAGE & MEDIA SPONSORS
CHANGE THE FUTURE OF OUR FOOD
Piggy Bank is a Noah’s Ark for heritage breed pigs with one goal: to make our foodways safer (and more delicious).
THE PROBLEM
THE SOLUTION
GET INVOLVED
For small and family farms, genetics are costly and business knowledge scarce.
Build a genetic sanctuary for heritage breed pigs, while creating a business plan database for family farmers - a free network for Open Access Agriculture (OAA).
Help us make food safer for our future and our youth. Contributions will be used to develop the farm and gift pigs to small and family farms and culinary schools.
BECOME A DONOR TODAY
PIGGY-BANK.ORG @PIGGYBANKORG
PAGE 1
OUR SPONSORS ROCK! PAGE 2
ABOUT PIGGY BANK
Our charitable foundation that aims to create open-source agriculture for family farming, while helping to provide jobs and education for farmers and culinary students alike.. PAGE 4
ANOTHER AMAZING YEAR OF EVENTS
A FEW TIMES TO NOTE. 5:00 VIP ENTRY 5:55 GA DOORS 6:00 VOTING OPENS 6:45 PUNCH KINGS AWARDS 7:45 VOTING CLOSES 8:30 AWARDS CEREMONY
PAGE 5
ROYAL COURT Nicole Gajadhar Grae Nonas Kaelin Ulrich Trilling Jonathan Granada Will Nolan Paula DaSilva Ricardo Jarquin
Mitch Mayers Manabu 'Hori' Horiuchi Jordan Keao Drew Van Leuvan Kosta Kontogiannis Evan LeRoy
PAGE 19
POP-UP BUTCHER SHOP FOR CHARITY PAGE 20
THE WINES of GRAND COCHON PAGE 21
WINES FROM RIOJA PAGE 22
SOMM SMACKDOWN with AZZURRO WINE COMPANY PAGE 23
THE STARTER BAR PAGE 24
PUNCH KINGS with BRECKENRIDGE BOURBON PAGE 26
THE ANGOSTURA TIKI BAR PAGE 27
HERITAGE RUM CART PAGE 28
POACHED presents THE MANHATTAN PROJECT PAGE 29
TARTARE BAR featuring ANTICA WINES PAGE 30
DIRTY STEAK featuring ROYAL OAK PAGE 31
INNOVATE SWINE & SWEETS with
THE PERFECT PURÉE OF NAPA VALLEY
PAGE 32
HERITAGE BREED PIG GUIDE
GRAND COCHON 2017
COCHON555 NEW YORK, MINNEAPOLIS, NASHVILLE, LOS ANGELES, CHICAGO, SEATTLE, HOUSTON, AUSTIN, ATLANTA, WASHINGTON DC
FOCUS: HYPER-LOCAL, FINE-DINING TIMING: JANUARY - AUGUST REGION: TOP CULINARY MARKETS
This one-of-a-kind culinary tour features 5 chefs cooking 5 whole, heritage breed pigs in a friendly competition for a cause. After a dual guest/judge vote, the winner is crowned the “Princess/Prince of Porc”. The 14-city schedule kicks off in January, connecting quality-driven diners with family farmers, winemakers, restaurateurs, and distillers. A portion of all proceeds goes to our sister project, Piggy Bank, a 501(c) (3) charity.
HERITAGE BBQ DENVER, MIAMI, BOSTON, SAN FRANCISCO
Heritage BBQ is a whole-hog competition inspired by global grilling cultures and food traditions. Winemakers, distillers, brewers, bartenders – hospitality’s biggest talents take guests on a journey that is at once delicious and inspiring. From Malaysia to Korea and Argentina to the Caribbean, Old World recipes help create taste memories to last a lifetime, while changing the lives of pig farmers everywhere.
FOCUS: BBQ SHOULD BE LOCAL TIMING: MARCH - JUNE REGION: NATIONAL COMPETITION
HERITAGE FIRE ASPEN / SNOWMASS & NAPA VALLEY
Heritage Fire is a hyper-local, whole animal, live-fire bacchanal. It celebrates the raising, cooking, and eating of heritage breed animals (beef, lamb, goat, rabbit, fish, birds) raised with purpose and passion. Each event features 3,500+ pounds of fire-kissed meat roasted outdoors by 50+ chefs. The first is held on a mountainside during the Classic in Aspen, the second at a Napa winery mid-August.
FOCUS: LIVE FIRE COOKING TIMING: JUNE & AUGUST REGION: NATIONAL
GRAND COCHON CHICAGO
FOCUS: THE BEST 42 BITES FROM TOUR TIMING: SUNDAY OCTOBER 1, 2017 REGION: NATIONAL COMPETITION
Grand Cochon spotlights the ‘Best 3 Bites’ from all Cochon555 tour competition cities. 14 chefs cook 14 pigs in a head-to-tail, winner-takes-all showdown. The winner is crowned “Queen or King of Porc”. The decadent ticket features all-in tasting of cheese, wines, craft-cocktails, tartare, beers, spirits, "dirty" steaks, innovative desserts and more.
ANOTHER AMAZING YEAR OF EVENTS!
WWW.COCHON555.COM
4
The 2017
ROYAL COURT of GRAND COCHON
VOTE FOR THE BEST BITE OF THE DAY & THE NEXT QUEEN OR KING OF PORC!
GRAND COCHON 2017
MULEFOOT Spring House Farm @SpringHouseFarm
Originating from the U.S., the Mulefoot is a black hog named for its solid hoof, which resembles a mule. Critically rare, this breed has recently won several blind taste tests against eight different heritage breeds. The Mulefoot’s disposition is docile, and their weight gain is between 400-600 pounds before age two. Known for its premium hams, the superior tasting meat is red with freckled marbling.
NICOLE GAJADHAR Saxon + Parole
@missynikkig
@saxonandparole
After externing at Tabla and working in the kitchens of 10 Downing, Tertulia, and The Lion, Nicole joined the team at Saxon + Parole in 2013. Moving her way up to Chef de Cuisine, Nicole has worked alongside Chef Brad Farmerie managing the culinary partnership with JetBlue's Mint Class menu. She aided in the opening of Saxon + Parole Moscow and in 2015 helped curate the menu for GENUINE. Most recently, Nicole helped build the menu for Ghost Donkey, AvroKO's Mexican-focused bar with a menu of gourmet nachos.
NEW YORK
LARGE BLACK/ TAMWORTH CROSS Yker Acres @ykeracres
The Large Black breed is known for its taste, pasture foraging skills, and overall hardiness. The Tamworth is known for its ample belly - aka the best bacon hog - and displays a firm, trim jowl underlined with muscular hams. When harvested at 200 pounds, the micro-marbling, short muscle fibers, and excellent bellies produce exceptional bacon and moist meat with complex flavors.
GRAE NONAS @graenonas
@GraeNonas
New England-bred, Grae Nonas’ childhood years exposed him to all that the East coast had to offer, he graduated from The Culinary Institute of America in 2008. His experience runs from large to small scale service including Centro Vinoteca, Le Pigeon, Mario Batali’s Tarry Lodge, Eataly, Restaurant North, Animal, Son of a Gun which all led to opening of Olamaie, a modern Southern, farm-to-table restaurant in Austin. Since opening in August 2014, chef Grae has received many notable accolades including Food & Wine Magazine’s Best New Chef 2015. He was also selected as a James Beard “Rising Star Chef” semifinalist in 2015, with a repeat nomination in 2016 as a finalist.
MINNEAPOLIS
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GRAND COCHON 2017
LARGE BLACK/ GUINEA HOG Bowers Farm @bowersfarmtn
A farmer’s cross of two breeds, a Guinea Hog and a Large Black. Guinea Hogs are known for their gentle nature and excellent foraging abilities and considered by chefs for being an exceptional animal, yielding outstanding hams, bacon, and lard. Large Blacks are known for their pasture foraging, large belly, and high micro-marbling. Combining the traits of the two breeds ensures a luscious and deliciously moist pork.
KAELIN ULRICH TRILLING @kaelinulrich
@KaelinU
Kaelin Ulrich Trilling, son of acclaimed cookbook author, cooking school founder and Mexican food authority Susana Trilling, was born and raised in Oaxaca. His technique and ingredient-driven dishes offers a menu of authentic Mexican cuisine.
NASHVILLE
OLD SPOT
Step Ladder Creamery #StepLadderCreamery Originating from England, the Gloucestershire Old Spot is a critically rare breed. Nicknamed “orchard pig�, the Old Spot is white with black spots, has floppy ears, and a medium-sized body. Known for its higher fat ratio, the breed remains remarkably hardy with flavorful meat, excellent foraging abilities and a gentle temperament, making it popular with farmers. The meat has a distinctive layer of back fat, which adds to the succulent flavor overall.
JONATHAN GRANADA Otium
@jgranada39
@otiumla
In 2007, Chef Jonathan Granada began working at Bouchon. After moving up the ranks, Granada moved to The French Laundry in 2009, and met Timothy Hollingsworth. In 2015, Granada moved to LA to begin working with Hollingsworth on the opening of Otium, where he currently serves as Chef de Cuisine.
LOS ANGELES
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GRAND COCHON 2017
BERKSHIRE
Mountain Primal Meat Company
@mountainprimal
Originating from Britain, Berkshire is the most popular of the heritage breeds. Known as “Kurobuta” in Japan, this pig is black with white legs, and has become a favorite with chefs because of its intramuscular marbling. The breed yields a brighter pork than most, and features a thick, delicious fat cap. The meat is sweet and creamy with hints of nuttiness, which is a by-product of the finishing process in several areas.
WILL NOLAN Eight K
@willtn3
@viceroysnowmass
Executive Chef Will Nolan graduated from the Western Culinary Institute in Portland, Oregon, a Le Cordon Bleu School. His cuisine reflects a deep-rooted appreciation of New Orleans combining fine-dining with local farmers. Previous to Viceroy, Will took the helm as Bourbon Orleans Hotel in New Orleans and opened a New Orleans style restaurant called “The Big Easy” in Singapore. Additional to his Executive Chef roles, he ran kitchens throughout North America including New Orleans’ Café Adelaide, Cascade Grill, Foxfire Grill, Palace Restaurant, and Lady Falconburgh’s, in Durango, Colorado.
DENVER
HEREFORD Palmetto Creek Farms #PalmettoCreekFarms
Originating from the U.S. during the 1920’s, the Hereford is a rare, but well known breed. Resembling Hereford cows, these hogs have a distinguished reddish-brown coat and white face. The Hereford is known for its calm disposition and ability to thrive on pastures. It is a slower growing breed, yielding richly colored and marbled meat.
PAULA DASILVA Burlock Coast
@paula_dasilva
South Florida culinary darling Chef Paula DaSilva is the executive chef of Burlock Coast Seafare & Spirits at The Ritz-Carlton, Fort Lauderdale. The former Hell’s Kitchen contestant is known for her soulful, farm fresh dishes that have earned her critical acclaim.
MIAMI
11
GRAND COCHON 2017
BLONDE MANGALITSA 1936 Meadowbrook Farm #1936Meadowbrook
Originating from Hungary in the early 1800’s, the Mangalitsa is a very rare breed, and is considered by many to be the Wagyu of pork. The breed is characterized by its coarse, wooly coat and ability to withstand extreme conditions. Mangalitsa pork is known for its high-quality, lardo-type fat, and its high percentage of marbling, which doubles that of average pork. The Mangalitsa yields juicy and flavorful meat.
RICARDO JARQUIN Travelle Kitchen + Bar
@onfoodandfeasting
@travellechicago
Travelle Kitchen + Bar Chef de Cuisine Ricardo Jarquin is a force on Chicago’s culinary scene with an impressive pedigree. Originally from Miami, Jarquin’s American cuisine is inspired by seasonality, historical styles, genuine ingredients, and a background in refined, modern techniques.
CHICAGO
MANGALITSA CROSS Shady Acres Farm @ShadyAcresFarm
Specific breeds have unique physical characteristics, dispositions, meat quality and flavor. A Farmer’s Cross is the combining of multiple breeds to achieve a flavor elevated hybrid animal and product. This pig carries traits from that of a Mangalitsa, Duroc and Berkshire. Combining the traits of these breeds creates a richly flavored and balanced farmers cross.
MITCH MAYERS Lark
@m7mayers
@larkseattle
A Washington native, Mitch graduated from the CIA and Cornell University. After interning at the Herbfarm, he was recruited by Hillstone Restaurant Group. In 2011, he became the Executive Chef at Denver’s Black Pearl, until returning to Seattle to work at Lark and was named Chef de Cuisine.
SEATTLE
13
GRAND COCHON 2017
MANGALITSA RED WATTLE CROSS Chubby Dog Farm @Chubbydogfarm
Mangalitsa pigs are characterized by their wooly coat and ability to withstand extreme conditions. Their fat distribution is like no other, producing high quality intramuscular marbling, back fat, and leaf lard, perfect for cures. Red Wattle pork is lean and juicy with a rich, beef-like taste and texture.
MANABU 'HORI' HORIUCHI Kata Robata
@katarobata
@katarobata
Born in Shizuoka, Japan, Chef Hori as he is known, had culinary dreams in his blood. He was inspired by his mother, a chef and precisionist known for preparing meals with fresh ingredients. After graduation from the Tsuji Culinary Institute in Osaka at 19, he moved to Tokyo to work at the most prestigious sushi restaurants, Sushi-Ko Honten and Ichimura Kansai Kappou. He was invited to be the personal chef to the Consulate General of Japan and moved to Houston. Today, he is one of Houston’s most acclaimed chefs, and has been recognized by James Beard Foundation Awards.
HOUSTON
MULEFOOT Massa Natural Meats @MassaMeats
Originating from the U.S., the Mulefoot is a black hog named for its solid hoof, which resembles a mule. Critically rare, this breed has recently won several blind taste tests against eight different heritage breeds. The Mulefoot’s disposition is docile, and their weight gain is between 400-600 pounds before age two. Known for its premium hams, the superior tasting meat is red with freckled marbling.
JORDAN KEAO 'aina Restaurant
@JKeao
@ainarestaurant
Chef Jordan was born and raised in Hawaii, growing up on the Big Island. Jordan started working at Roy’s Hawaiian in La Jolla. He then worked directly alongside Roland Passot at the Michelin-starred French restaurant La Folie, for exposure to French and modern cooking techniques. This was followed by a few years in the tech industry managing large scale food operations with farm direct products. Jordan is grateful for the opportunity to have worked for many different chefs and travel throughout Asia, gaining exposure to a wide range of skills, techniques and ingredients.
SAN FRANCISCO
15
GRAND COCHON 2017
BERKSHIRE TAMWORTH CROSS Gum Creek Farms @GumCreekFarms
Berkshire is the most popular of the heritage breeds and has become a favorite with chefs because of its intramuscular marbling. Tamworth hogs originated in Ireland, with a muscular top, rounded back, upright ears, and long snout, thought by many to be the best bacon hog. The crossing of these breeds yields a lean and flavorful pork with subtle hints of nuttiness.
DREW VAN LEUVAN Seven Lamps
@DrewVanLeuvan
@sevenlampsatl
I am a 21-year veteran of cooking and have been trained in two, formal 5 Star Restaurants by Chefs Jean Louis Palladin and Guenter Seeger. I have been a Chef in many Atlanta restaurants including; Asher, Spice, Toast, Woodfire Grill, Saga, Trois and One Midtown Kitchen, but I have always wanted to work for myself. That came to fruition when I started my first business, Pain de Mie, a handmade pasta company serving fresh pastas to more than 30 restaurants in Atlanta & Athens. This led to the opening of my restaurant Seven Lamps and my bar, Grain Cocktail Bar.
ATLANTA
SADDLEBACK Leaping Waters Farm @LeapWatersFarm
This English breed is known for its hardy vigor and a superior fat to meat ratio in the belly and loin. The trim, fine-coated Saddleback is black with a white saddle, which includes the forelegs. Recent selection has improved the breed’s growing ability, and its carcass is among the highest in quality and quantity of meat.
KOSTA KONTOGIANNIS Kingbird Restaurant
@justforfood
@watergatehotel
Originally from Athens, Greece, Kosta has been an integral part of many notable kitchens and has collaborated with chefs Sean Brock, Michael Solomonov, Eddie Lee, Bryan Voltaggio and Gabrielle Hamilton in the past. After a two year stint at Michael Mina’s Wit & Wisdom and a brief hiatus, Chef Kosta returned this time to Washington, D.C. where you can find him behind the stoves of Kingbird at The Watergate Hotel.
WASHINGTON DC
17
GRAND COCHON 2017
RED WATTLE/ LARGE BLACK CROSS Peaceful Pork #PeacefulPork
Large Blacks are known for their pasture foraging, large belly, and high micro-marbling. Red Wattle pork is lean and juicy with a rich, beef-like taste and texture. The combination of these amazing breeds allows for great intramuscular pork with excellent back fat and rich meaty flavors.
EVAN LEROY LeRoy and Lewis
@evanleroybbq
@leroyandlewis
Known for his innovative takes on Texas barbecue, Chef and Pitmaster Evan LeRoy incorporates elements of fine dining and from-scratch cooking into his menu, shining a new light on the traditional cuisine. Comfortable around a live fire from a young age, Evan’s culinary experience ranges from fine dining, at Hudson’s On the Bend, to barbecue at Hill Country Barbecue in NYC and serving as the founding pitmaster of Freedmen's in Austin. He has traveled to Australia and Russia, to train and work with prospective pitmasters and has been known for his openness to teaching and sharing smoking secrets.
AUSTIN
BUTCHER DEMO WITH THE SUPPORT OF
Rob Levitt
THE BUTCHER & LARDER / LOCAL FOODS @butcherlarder @LocalFoodsChi
Berkshire CATALPA GROVE
TAKE HOME HERITAGE PORC
100% of the proceeds go to support Piggy Bank, the Open Access Agriculture (OAA) sanctuary for heritage breed pigs.
KEEP IT SIMPLE, AND DON’T OVERCOOK ROASTING UNTIL INTERNAL TEMPERATURE OF 135° 19
GRAND COCHON 2017
THE WINES of GRAND COCHON
SILVER OAK CELLARS @SilverOak
AGHARTA WINES @AghartaWines
KOBALT WINES #KobaltWines
ELEMENT WINERY @elementwinery
CIRQ @Kosta_Browne
WINES OF RIOJA @RiojaWine
FEATURED WINEMAKERS
PAX MAHLE Pax Wine Cellars @PaxMahle
ABE SCHOENER The Scholium Project @scholiumwines
NICO CUEVA KOSTA BROWNE @Kosta_Browne
NATE WEIS Silver Oak Cellars @SilverOak
MICHAEL BROWNE CIRQ @Kosta_Browne
Hold On To Your Glass You Can Totally Have Seconds. Cheers!
2017 GRAND PRIZE PRESENTED BY
The winner of today’s event will receive a 4-day wine experience to Rioja, Spain’s most prominent wine region.
200+ VIBRANT WINES • TASTY TAPAS BY TOP CHEFS • JAMÓN BAR • SPECIAL TASTINGS • CHEESE CAVE • PAELLA GARDEN • LIVE MUSIC
JOIN US IN HOUSTON ON JUNE 2ND, 2018
WWW. RIOJAFEST.COM
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GRAND COCHON 2017
Fifty of the nation’s top sommeliers told us what they thought pairs best with heritage breed pork cooked by top chefs. The best wine pairing across-theboard was selected as the city's winner.
THIS YEAR’S WINNING SOMMS NEW YORK
Nicole Hakli of ACME
MINNEAPOLIS NASHVILLE
LOS ANGELES
Jared Hooper of Faith & Flower
Kelly Wooldridge of Table 6
DENVER MIAMI
Laurie Hefner of Corner Table
Jenelle Engleson of City Winery
Kirsta Grauberger of Market 17
BOSTON
Theresa Paopao of Asta Rachel Driver-Spekan of City Winery
CHICAGO
Hayley Black of Tutta Bella
SEATTLE
HOUSTON
Lindsay Thomas of Pappas Bros. Steakhouse
SAN FRANCISCO ATLANTA
Linda Torres of Ritz-Carlton Buckhead
WASHINGTON DC AUSTIN
Marie-Louise Friedland of State Bird Provisions Julie Dalton of Wit & Wisdom
Ken Freeman of Italic/Elm Restaurant Group
A SPECIAL THANKS... to our co-host of the 2017 Somm Smackdown competitions. Azzurro Wine Company represents independent global wineries spotlighting the vine to bottle craft with precision and passion. Azzurro Wine Company takes pride in managing, marketing and distributing a stunning portfolio of Italian producers in North America.
F E AT U R I N G
23
GRAND COCHON 2017
2017 DIVISIONAL PUNCH KINGS COMPETITIONS
In each city bartenders were given 30 minutes to prepare 1 punch bowl featuring 1 bottle of Breckenridge Bourbon along with their own special ingredients.
THE COCHON555 TOUR PRESENTS
14 of the finest U.S. bartenders go for the gold...en gloves at the 5th Annual Punch Kings Finale Competition, LAST CALL.
Founded in 2007 by Bryan Nolt, Breckenridge Distillery is one of the bestknown and fastest-growing craft spirits distilleries in the US - and we just love 'em!
Punch is the grandaddy of all cocktails, meant for sharing amongst friends and enhancing social engagements. The theme of the competition is large format and the participating bartenders were given 30 minutes to prepare 1 punch bowl featuring 1 bottle of Breckenridge Bourbon and Angostura Bitters along with their own special ingredients. The winner will receive a limited editiong custom Breckendrige Distillery Snowboard & bragging rights.
CHECK OUT ALL THE GREAT PUNCH RECIPES, PHOTOS AND VIDEOS AT PUNCHKINGS.COM
THE FINALISTS
THIS YEAR’S WINNER OF THE PUNCH KINGS LAST CALL COMPETITION WILL BE ANNOUNCED FROM STAGE DURING GRAND COCHON AT 6:45PM CHEERS TO THESE GUYS! HASBROUCK HEIGHTS
SMOKE AND THE PINEAPPLE
NEW YORK
ANTHONY BOHLINGER
ERIK EASTMAN
OF
OF
MAISON PREMEIRE
LINDA HAMILTON WEST
TIM HERSHBERGER OF
DENVER
BEN JEWELL OF
SEATTLE
BRAMLING CROSS
MIAMI
EL GRITO
JIM MCCONN OF
A KING’S RANSOM
MASALA CHAI MILK PUNCH
NASHVILLE
TRACY ARDOIN-JENKIN
CHRIS AMIRAULT
OF
OF
NICKY'S COAL FIRED
BIG BABY PUNCH
SEAN WOODS OF
TEXAS THAI TEA
COUPLE OF PIGS WATCHING
OF
MINNEAPOLIS
REVIVAL
HAZA YO FAZA, A PUNCH
MIZUNA
TANIA ROSS
HEAT OF THE MOMENT #2
CHATHAM ARTILLERY PUNCH
BOSTON
DEADHORSE HILL
HOUSTON
JEFF LYON OF
COME AND TAKE IT
THIRD RAIL
PIERS SMYTH OF
RAIL PUNCH
AMÉRICAS
LOS ANGELES
OTIUM
CHICAGO
ROOF ON THEWIT
HIGH TEA
SAN FRANCISCO
JAMES WAMPLER OF
ATLANTA
PROOF & PROVISION
CHECK OUT PHOTOS FROM THE
EVENTS AND GET OVER 200± AMAZING PUNCH RECIPES AT
WWW.PUNCHKINGS.COM RACHEL SERGI OF
THE NEXT WHISKY BAR
WASHINGTON DC
SARAH RAHL OF
FOUR SEASONS AUSTIN
AUSTIN
25
GRAND COCHON 2017
FEAT.
FEATURING
ENJOY RESPONSIBLY 27
GRAND COCHON 2017
Pack GLASS with ice Two luxardo cherries Two fingers of SPIRIT DASHING OF ANGOSTURA BITTERS enjoy RESPONSIBLY!
WITH
Josh Pollack
Rosenberg’s Bagels @rosenbergsbagel 29
GRAND COCHON 2017
with @chefcorymorris @boleochicago
Cooking Meat Directly On Natural Charcoal
PRESE NT E D BY
Today’s dessert spotlights the fresh flavors of The Perfect Purée of Napa Valley prepared by one of America’s most talented chefs. Celebrating innovation, our Swine and Sweets course is inspired by classic pastry with a twist.
FEATURING
ZAC YOUNG
of Craveable Hospitality Group
@zac_young @craveablehg
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GRAND COCHON 2017
The future of heritage breed pigs is reliant upon farmers who can afford to raise them. You can help by being a part of this process. By simply eating and buying heritage breed pork, you can help preserve its existence. For in creating a demand for the meat, these wonderful animals are thus saved for future generations. Today, many butchers, markets, and restaurants are beginning to carry heritage breed pigs. This guide is designed to serve as a reference, and to help you start a dialog with your local meat carriers. COCHON555 wants to help you learn about different heritage breed pigs, so that you can ask for them the next time you visit your local grocer, butcher, farmer’s market, and favorite restaurants.
They have a more robust flavor. Upon first bite, your mouth should come alive as the juicy meat and crystalline fat hit your tongue. Bacon pigs, like the Tamworth, are bred to have a high ratio of meat, which is balanced with fat for good moisture. The meat from leaner pigs, like the Red Wattle, have meat that has a distinct, rich flavor and is juicy and succulent.
Most heritage breed pigs are raised on family farms without the use of antibiotics or steroids. In the kitchen, adequate marbling throughout the meat lessens the need for oils, butters, shortenings and unnatural fats, which means you and your family are eating healthier.
Supporting heritage breeds also has economical and taste advantages. COCHON555 honors the entire animal and its history by utilizing each pig in its entirety from snout to tail. The art of butchery is a highly skilled practice, and when a whole hog is utilized in its entirety, nothing goes to waste.
The additional care and time involved in raising heritage breed pigs makes them more expensive to raise than other pork. Raised naturally, with a purpose and passion, these pigs mature as Mother Nature intended. They take longer to gain weight because of their indigenous diets and the fact that they are raised on open pastures.
Low and slow is the best, depending on the part of the pig. With flavor-packed pork, time is the main ingredient. If you don’t have time for the diverse cuts most chefs prepare, throw the chop on the grill with a little salt and pepper, and finish in the oven. All pork has a sweetness and lightness that pairs best with light-to-mediumbodied wines with lots of fruit and low tannins. We believe Pinot Noir to be the most versatile of grape varietals, especially from family owned wineries. We also enjoy hand-crafted beers and spirits with our swine. The model they all share is easy to remember: all things produced with passion
Sometimes it is necessary to cross breeds because adequate gene pools are not available in a particular rancher’s area. Other times, it is the philosophy of a family farmer to blend two of his favorite animals that display favorable traits. The goal is to create a new generation of mixed breed wherein the best qualities of the original animals emerge while strengthening the overall genetic base of those involved.
The Mulefoot breed is critically rare. As of 2006 there were fewer than 200 purebred hogs documented.
KNOW THE BREEDS BERKSHIRE
RED WATTLE
MANGALITSA “WOOLY PIG”
Originating from Britain, Berkshire is the most popular of the heritage breeds. Known as “Kurobuta” in Japan, this pig is black with white legs, and has become a favorite with chefs because of its intramuscular marbling. The breed yields a brighter pork than most, and features a thick, delicious fat cap. The meat is sweet and creamy with hints of nuttiness, which is typical of the finishing
Originating from New Caledonia, a French Island in the South Pacific, the Red Wattle gets its name from its red color and the fleshy skin that hangs under its jowls. is extremely rare breed adapts to climates well and is an excellent forager. It is prized for its tender meat and splendid hams. Red Wattle pork is lean and juicy with a rich beef-like taste and texture.
Originating from Hungary in the early 1800’s, the Mangalitsa is a very rare breed, and is said to be the Wagyu of pork. The breed is characterized by its course, wooly coat and ability to withstand extreme conditions. Mangalitsa pork is known for its high-quality, lard-type fat, and its high percentage of marbling, which doubles that of average pork. The Mangalitsa yields juicy and flavorful meat.
process in several areas.
TAMWORTH
DUROC
LARGE BLACK
While it remains challenged, it is possible that the Tamworth originated from Ireland before being bred extensively in England. Smaller in comparison, the Tamworth has a reddish coat, muscular top, rounded back, upright ears and a long snout. Its disposition is very rugged, thrifty and active. Known for its ample belly “aka the best bacon hog”, the Tamworth displays a firm trim jowl and underline with muscular hams.
Originated from the blending of two strains of hogs from New Jersey and New York in 1830. This breed has long been known for its ability to grow faster on less feed. Duroc is high in marbling (small flecks of fat within the muscle) making its spareribs and shoulder roasts sweet & juicy.
Originating from Chinese breeds brought to England, the Large Black is a critically rare breed known for its taste, pasture foraging skills and overall hardiness. Large Blacks have short black hair, wide shoulders and a long body. When harvested, even at 200 pounds, the micro-marbling, short muscle fibers and excellent bellies produce exceptional bacon and moist meat with old world flavor.
YORKSHIRE
HAMPSHIRE
OSSABAW
The Yorkshire breed was developed in England in the county of York. The modern Yorkshire is white in color, with erect ears, and is the most recorded swine breed in the United States. It is very muscular pig, with with a large frame know for raising large litters in addition to being very sound and durable on pasture. The Yorkshire has a high proportion of lean meat and low backfat.
The English breed, Hampshire is known for its amazing carcass, hardy vigor and superior fat to meat ratio in the belly and loin. The trim, fine-coated Hampshire is black with a white saddle, which includes the forelegs. Recent selection has improved the breed’s growing ability, and its carcass is among the highest in quality and quantity of meat.
Originating from Spain, and of Iberian decent, this feral breed lives off the coast of Georgia on Ossabaw Island. ey are small range pigs, meaning they are isolated foragers. They have a heavy coat and long snout. Extremely rare, this breed has a high percentage of healthy monounsaturated fat and makes great charcuterie. The quality of their fat and marbling has increased their popularity within the chef community.
GLOUCESTERSHIRE OLD SPOT
MULEFOOT
KUNE KUNE
Originating from England, the Gloucestershire Old Spot is a critically rare breed. Nicknamed “orchard pig”, the Old Spot is white with black spots, has floppy ears and a medium-sized body. Known for its higher fat ratio, the breed remains remarkably hardy with flavorful meat, excellent for aging abilities and a gentle temperament, making it popular with farmers. The meat has a distinctive layer of back fat, which adds to the succulent flavor overall.
Originating from the U.S., the Mulefoot is a black hog named for its solid hoof, which resembles a mule. Critically rare, this breed recently won several blind taste tests against eight different heritage breeds. The Mulefoot’s disposition is docile, and weight gain is between 400-600 pounds before age two. Known for its premium hams, the superior tasting meat is red with freckled marbling.
Kunekune Pigs are the only breed of swine known to fatten on grass with so very little needed in the way of supplementation. Their wide head, dished face, and short, upturned snout speaks to their tendency to graze rather than root. They produce a quality, marbled meat as well as a good quantity of useable fat.
OTHER NOTABLE BREEDS: GUINEA HOG, HEREFORD, POLAND CHINA, MIESHAN, CHESTER WHITE, IBERIAN, EUROPEAN WILD, LACOMBE, ESSEX SADDLEBACK, LANDRACE