CODE in conversation with... Guillaume Siard and Michael Hazlewood, Antidote
chefs interested, he acknowledges “it’s a tough thing to do during a difficult service, so we make sure that we change the menu as much as possible”, both for the benefit of the customer and the development of the staff.
CODE’s Callum Edge caught up with Guillaume Siard, General Manager, and Michael Hazlewood, Head Chef, to find out more about their approach that sets them apart from the Soho pack. There is something to be said about finding your niche by appearing to go exactly in the opposite direction to the status quo. Among a scene that is getting more casual, Antidote seemingly sets out to provide a tonic to the plethora of burgers, buns, brisket and balls now in vogue. Antidote, in an industry for which ‘destination’ has become a dirty word, manifests as what is now a dying-breed: one of the last true independent restaurants in Soho. It is the dedication of Guillaume Siard and Michael Hazlewood which prove that such destinations are worth protecting. It began with the bread. Swooned over as “the best that can be found”, “near perfect”, and “stellar”; it didn’t take long for the connection to be made. It is no longer a secret that Hedone’s Mikael Jonsson consults for Antidote; a partnership Hazlewood (“Hazle” to his colleagues) says allows for both experimentation and personal mentoring, but above all “access to some of the best produce in London”. Jonsonn’s fondness for minimalism and offal is evidently borrowed in the cooking here, although Hazlewood’s own food is quietly self-assured in its clarity and sense of direction, and the menu, he believes, provides “accessibility” for everyone. The softly-spoken and unassuming Hazlewood comes from toast.E.D in Dulwich, with a stint at Melbourne’s Attica under his belt, and a stage working for Jonsson at Hedone. He is also adamant that wine is a very equal partner to the food (“it can make or break a meal”) and his CV reflects it with experience at wineries in Australia and Italy for two seasons and by citing some of the regions’ top producers as friends. Siard beams recalling how many times he has descended the kitchen stairs to offer his head chef “a taste of this or that”, only to be astounded by his palate and viticultural knowledge. Hazlewood also has his finger close to the pulse when asked the solution to dealing with the current skills shortage in London’s kitchens: “we treat people well and provide a family-style working environment”, offering an ear for advice and a leg-up for support. Whilst shuffling the sections keeps
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Looking after the front of house is Siard, whose extensive wine list reflects some of the very best biodynamic and organic producers, largely from France, but also with a smattering from the New World. Bottles sold at retail prices on Monday evenings “attract a strong industry crowd” in the upstairs dining-room, with sommeliers spotted from the likes of Fera and Hibiscus getting their chops round one of London’s most forward-thinking cellars. Yet it is Siard’s generous, but most of all genuine hospitality that has assured the success of this site over the past fourteen years. Those in the know will be aware that Antidote formerly operated under the name La Trouvaille (or “lucky find”), a small bistro taking a more modern approach to French classics. Whilst an extensive refurbishment and a change in partnership has seen the restaurant become something very different to what was imagined in 2001, Siard still champions quality and affordable dining. Recently blessed by both Fay Maschler and Marina O’Loughlin, Antidote embodies ‘destination’ in every positive sense of the word: it is worth its locality, but also a journey – and is a lot more than its former namesake. Both Hazlewood and Siard possess a passion and dedication to their field that anyone seriously considering a career in restaurants would be incredibly fortunate to benefit from. They have, what Danny Meyer calls, the “excellence reflex” – a natural reaction to improving something that isn’t quite right. As lunch comes to a close this gets me thinking that, whilst being the hub of culinary fireworks (and dare I say queueing) it is, Soho would be a sadder place without these people in such restaurants. What may incorrectly appear as an unwillingness to change is in fact a well-reasoned response to what is going on around them: the ability to nurture a loyal team; an understanding of what it is to be hospitable; and a firm belief in their unique product – things to me, at least, that seem wholly worthy of support.
Callum Edge @EdgeAndSpoon
