Issue 9 Winter 2016
Quarterly The eyes & ears of the hospitality industry End of year round up | Restaurant A to Z | 30 under 30 | Eat. Drink. Design. | Mallorca
Distributed by hand to the best restaurants, hotels, bars and private members’ clubs | codehospitality.co.uk -1-
Just another cola company that wants to make as much money as possible.
Money from every bottle of Karma Cola goes straight back to the village in Sierra Leone that grows the cola in the first place. This money is then used for infrastructure, irrigation and schooling. Ideally we'd like people to give money to the village directly; but that's probably an unreal expectation, so we're happy enough if they just give indirectly every time they wander in to a cafe and feel a bit thirsty. It's not a great business model, but it is a good one.
@karmacolauk #drinknoevil
karmacola.co.uk
Contents 5.
What’s hot. What’s not.
8.
Restaurant gossip
10.
Season’s greetings
15.
End of year round up
18.
Delivering a new era for restaurants
20.
30 under 30
30.
Restaurant A to Z
32.
Optimise your nutrition to get the edge this winter
35.
TripAdvisor tales
37.
Crisis management
38.
The art of collaboration
40.
Free is the magic number
42.
Eat. Drink. Design.
46.
Magical Mallorca
48.
Instagram spotlight
49.
24 hours in Dublin
50.
Last Orders
Editor Adam Hyman
Head office CODE 6th Floor Greener House 66-68 Haymarket London SW1Y 4RF Tel: +44 207 104 2007 contact@codehospitality.co.uk @CODEhospitality @codehospitality CODE Quarterly (Online) ISSN 2398-9726
CODE Quarterly is published four times a year by Nexus CODE Limited, 6th Floor, Greener House, 66-68 Haymarket, London SW1Y 4RF. Registered no. 07950029 England and Wales. Printed by DataComuniqué, The Loft, 68 Crescent Lane, London, SW4 9PU -3-
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
Creative Director James Wood
Contributors James Collins Callum Edge Will Lake Thom Lawson Anna Sulan Masing Matt Paice Daniel Reynolds Catherine Taylor Alun Thomas Emyr Thomas Mikey Williams James Wood
ShowCave at Cabotte, Gresham Street, London
57 Chiltern Street • London W1U 6ND Tel: 020 7935 4679 • @eurocave_uk -4-
2O17: hold tight I think it’s fair to say that 2016 has been a year where we’ve learnt to expect the unexpected. From Brexit to Trump, it seems we’re living through rather interesting times. We like to be optimistic here at CODE HQ but despite what seems to have been another bumper year for the industry, I believe we’re in for a bumpy ride in 2017. The proposed business rates increases in London are somewhat terrifying in certain cases and is clearly something the government needs to address before restaurants follow in the footsteps of retail and become virtual. The rise in the national minimum wage and the knock on effect of Brexit for recruitment are both factors to take into account over the next 12 months. We recently launched The CODE app in Edinburgh - with Glasgow to soon follow - and I’m delighted to announce that we will also be launching in Dublin in January. 2016 has seen the CODE Consultancy side of the business grow and we’re working with a number of street food operators as advisors, as well as fundraising for them. As we all know, restaurants are so much more than just about the food but it seems the arrival of the likes of Deliveroo, UberEats and Amazon are here to stay and forging a new era for
restaurants. Mikey Williams takes a closer look at what this might mean for the industry (p.18). I’ve always thought it important to foster future generations in any industry but especially hospitality as it’s one of the few careers where young people can rise through the ranks quickly. This is why we’ve put together CODE Hospitality’s 30 under 30 (p.20). The list is not ranked but everyone has been chosen for the way they are redefining the hospitality industry - and congratulations to everyone who has been featured. As the end of the year draws to a close, we’ve called upon some of our good friends in the industry to ask for their views on the past 12 months, as well as what they’re looking forward to in 2017 (p.15) and Callum Edge charts us through the major forces transforming restaurants in 2016, A through Z (p. 30). He also looks at the PR freebie an article that should produce some interesting debate (p. 40). Matt Paice of Killer Tomato has penned an interesting article on why the bad reviews on TripAdvisor have become his new bible (p. 35) and Alun Thomas of Thomas & Thomas Partners lends us more of his invaluable legal knowledge this time on handling crisis management (p. 37). It’s the time of the year when
most people are eating and drinking to excess - James Collins talks us through the best ways to optimise your nutrition over the festive period and New Year (p. 32). Anna Sulan Masing makes a case for why we should all collaborate more (p. 38) and James Woods returns with his Eat. Drink. Design. feature looking at the branding and design of some of his favourite pubs in London (p. 42). Finally, Emyr Thomas of Bon Vivant Travel visits Mallorca, which is undergoing a hotel and restaurant revival, and runs us through the new hotel scene on the island (p. 46). I’d like to take this opportunity to wish you and your family season’s greetings and a happy and healthy 2017. Thank you for your support and as ever, questions and comments can be sent to me at: adam@codehospitality.co.uk
Adam Hyman Founder, CODE @AdamMHyman
What’s hot. What’s not.
Proper hospitality Some places just get it. Others don’t.
Dishes in any order Oysters before the side of broccoli, please.
Hygge We’ve reached peak cosiness. Dine out.
Booze delivery Loving Drop wine delivery app by 10 Cases. Burgundy by bicycle.
Naked dining Just no.
Queueing So. Tedious. And so 2014. Use Qudini.
#client Time for PR to start being more transparent on social media.
Can we explain how the menu works? Our seven most feared words upon sitting down in a restaurant. -5-
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
Wood grills It’s getting hot in here but have a good dry cleaner handy.
Dyson Airblade ™ tap Not cheap but Sir Jimmy Dyson has created another must have in your restaurant khazi.
winner of 'best equipment supplier' at the european coffee awards 2016 winner of ‘new product of the year’ at café life awards 2016 the strada av is the choice for customers who appreciate the familiarity of volumetric controls, and who seek repeatability and consistency in high-volume settings.
www.uk.lamarzocco.com -6-
Sexy sardines If you find yourself in Lisbon you must pay a visit to Conserveira de Lisboa, which celebrated its 80th anniversary in 2010. This 1930’s Portuguese cannery dedicates itself to canned sardines and other fish. The cosy shop still has its original fit out and cash register. The family business owns three tinned fish brands – Tricana, Prata do Mar and Minor. Tricana offers fillets of bigger fish, with each one hand-placed in the can. Minor features small fish and fish pastes and Prata do Mar sells fish from Portuguese waters. The tins make for beautiful gifts and their colourful designs brighten up any kitchen. Tricana sardine fillets in olive oil, from ₏4 for 120g from conserveiradelisboa.pt
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
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Restaurant gossip The latest goings on from the world of hospitality over the past three months.
London The City
The City of London is to welcome The Ned; a hotel, members’ club and collection of restaurants from Soho House and US hotel group, Sydell Group. Set in the impressive former Midland Bank building, it will house nine restaurants. One stop down on the central line is London’s first ‘Department Store of Dining’. The Kitty Hawk is to open as part of a multi-million pound development at River Plate House in South Place. Designed by Russell Sage Studio, it boasts five ‘departments’ specialising in seasonal British produce.
Jean-Georges Vongerichten
Internationally renowned French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten is to return to London to open a restaurant at the Connaught hotel. The restaurant will be located in the space that is currently Espelette at the front of the hotel looking over Mount Street and will join Hélène Darroze and her two Michelin-starred restaurant.
Experimental Group
Ollie Dabbous is to open Henrietta, an 80 cover restaurant in the Henrietta hotel in Covent Garden. This is the first London hotel from the Experimental Group, who are also opening their first members’ club, Chess Club on Chesterfield Street. They have partnered with Jackson Boxer of Brunswick House to create a menu focusing on British ingredients for the 55-cover restaurant at the Mayfair venue.
Ole and Steen Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
Danish bakers Ole Kristoffersen and Steen Skallebæk are to open Ole and Steen in St James’s Market, joining recent openings Anzu, Veneta and Aquavit. It is expected to mark the first of a roll out of the Ole & Steen brand across London. Whilst over in Fitzrovia, Monica Galetti - MasterChef Professionals judge and former senior sous chef at Le Gavroche - is to open a new Charlotte Street restaurant called Mere.
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Rest of the UK
Rest of the World
GG Hospitality
The Four Seasons
Chef Michael O’Hare is to open three new restaurants in Manchester with GG Hospitality, which is owned by former footballers Gary Neville and Ryan Giggs. The restaurants will be called The Man Who Fell to Earth, Are Friends Electric, and The Rabbit in the Moon. They will range from a 17-course tasting menu accompanied by hip hop and graffiti to a grand Parisian ballroom-style restaurant.
North
Another newcomer to Manchester is Soho stalwart Randall & Aubin from Brewer Street. They are to open a first northern outpost of their Anglo/French seafood brasserie on Bridge Street. Over in Liverpool, Nisha Katona will open a second branch of Mowgli on Water Street. The Indian street food restaurant first opened on Bold Street in 2014 before expanding to Manchester with a restaurant in the Corn Exchange last year.
Brighton
Japanese restaurant Moshimo has been given approval for a £3m extension to create a “lantern in the sky” designed by architect Michael Spooner. Work on the fivestorey, 130-cover restaurant is due to commence shortly. Also in Brighton, Michelin-starred chef Matt Gillan is to open his highly anticipated new restaurant. Gillan was previously head chef at The Pass at South Lodge in Horsham, where he held a Michelin star since 2011.
Scotland
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Noma, Mexico
Rene Redzepi, chef and co-owner of noma, Copenhagen, has revealed the restaurant is to undertake a residency in Redzepi’s ‘adopted home’ Mexico in April next year. The outdoor open-air restaurant will sit juxtaposed between the jungle and the Caribbean Sea in Tulum, and will see him partner up with former sous chef Rosio Sanchez and her taqueria Hija de Sanchez. noma Copenhagen (rated the third best restaurant in the world) is to close at the end of 2016 prior to a relaunch as a new farm-comerestaurant concept.
Wagamama, New York
London based Japanese food chain Wagamama is making its New York debut. It has opened in a three story, 7,000 sq ft space overlooking Madison Square Park. The chain, founded by restaurateur Alan Yau, now operates across 140 locations worldwide, but has taken its time to make its mark on the US. The New York outpost joins the chain’s four existing sites in Boston.
Palazzo Versace Dubai
Donatella Versace, chief designer of the Milan-based fashion house has designed her second hotel, Palazzo Versace Dubai. Following on from the success of Palazzo Versace Gold Coast, the hotel is billed as a ‘five-star fashion hotel’, and is reminiscent of a 16th century Italian Palace. The interiors and furniture for each of the 215 rooms were exclusively designed by Versace herself.
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
Bombay inspired café operator Dishoom have opened their first site outside of London in Edinburgh’s St Andrew Square development. Also coming to St Andrew Square is a new restaurant and bar offering from Tony Conetta and Mario Gizzi (Di Maggio’s Restaurant Group). Rusk & Rusk, the team behind The Butchershop and Hutchesons are to open The Spanish Butcher in Merchant City, Glasgow.
Having hosted power lunches for the past 60 years, the Four Seasons restaurant is to move location to 280 Park Avenue. Julian Niccolini and Alex von Bidder are reinventing the New York institution, with the new 150-cover dining room to boast 18ft tall ceilings and a design from Brazilian architect Isay Weinfeld, featuring 50s-style furniture, marble, crystal & gold. Taking over the landmark Four Seasons space will be Major Food Group, with chef ’s Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi blending a mix of old and new dishes along with their partner Jeff Zalaznick.
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
Season’s greetings Claridge’s Christmas Tree 2O16 by Sir Jony Ive & Marc Newson
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by Timothy Hatton Architects in collaboration with Sir David Attenborough
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Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
Human Nature at aqua shard
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
The Wolseley
by Corbin & King
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by Caprice Holdings
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Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
Sexy Fishmas at Sexy Fish
End of year round up WE ’ VE ASKED A PANEL OF INDUST R Y PROFESSION AL S FOR T HEIR VIEWS ON T HE PA ST 1 2 M ONT HS, A S WEL L A S WHAT T H E Y ’ R E L O O K I N G FO R WA R D T O I N 2 0 1 7 .
T HE CHEF
T H E R E S T A U R AT E U R
Andy Oliver, som saa
Karam Sethi, JKS Restaurants
I feel the London dining scene has really progressed in 2016. Young entrepreneurial restaurant operators have driven a lot of this. I’ve loved the way restaurants like BAO, Kiln, Padella and P. Franco have broken the mould in one way or another and offered something new, accessible and exciting.
Londoners’ palates continue to develop and they are open to trying new things. 2016 has seen a rise in restaurants that are offering original cuisine from all over the world. This year alone both som saa and Kiln have brought us regional Thai food, BAO – Taiwanese, and in 2017 I expect to see proper African influenced cuisine such as Ikoyi and more Middle Eastern inspired restaurants to come to the fore. -15-
The last nine months has seen a huge demand for restaurant/food delivery through the likes of Deliveroo, UberEats, Jinn, Amazon etc. Historically, many of us have been put off working with businesses such as these due to the lack of quality control. However, the diversification opportunities that a restaurant delivery arm can add to your business will result in this continuing to grow through to 2017. If I had to make one prediction for next year, from what I have heard so far, The Ned has the potential to be the best venue in the history of London hospitality.
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
In 2017, apart from continuing to be depressed by Brexit and watch food prices go up, I’m excited to watch Asian food in London continue to move forward and develop. From Indian through to Chinese and Southeast Asian, I think Londoners are now getting better and better dining options and so are increasingly knowledgeable about what the good stuff is and are up for more of it.
The restaurant scene continues to grow and diversify and 2016 has seen a number of interesting openings throughout the year. Many have said that fine dining is dying but I think there is still a fondness and place for it in London. We’ve also had the reinvention of some greats this year like Phillip Howard opening Elystan Street and The Fat Duck. These chefs have set the foundation over the past two to three decades that allow the rest of us to thrive today.
T HE WINE EXPERT
Ruth Spivey, Wine Car Boot
We’ve started to experience wine delivery in London thanks to Drop Wine App launching and it’s an immediate success, bringing together a welldesigned interface, top quality wines at all price points, eco friendly delivery (by bicycle) and all brought together by the team behind 10 Cases. This loops in nicely with the rise of BYO. With the weak British pound, wine is more expensive and we’ll see more drinking at home as it’s the only way to drink good wine without bankrupting yourself. We’re going to see more ‘concept’ bars like Cabotte that opened in the City this year, which has a wine list that is nearly all Burgundy. South Africa will continue to be the most dynamic and interesting new wine region. In London we’ve really started to see the start of hybrid wine offerings like at P. Franco, Winemakers Club (they’re opening in Deptford soon as well) Theatre of Wine, The 10 Cases, Newcomer Wines and Passione Vino that are shunning the middlemen. Shops that are bars, bars that are shops, shops that are importers, importers opening bars.
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
The whole natural wine myth is slowly getting busted that they’re all faulty. Some are, but then some conventional wines are too. Many are well made, why drink chemicals if you don’t have to?
T HE CRI T IC
T HE PR
Fay Maschler, London Evening Standard
Tanya Layzell-Payne, Gerber Comms
It has been the year of the caveman (and cavewoman, of course). Animals that roam wild and free cooked over wood impresses at Hill & Szrok, Pitt Cue, Newman Arms, Sagardi, Honey & Smoke, Kiln, SMOKESTAK and temper but can supplies of trees and cattle hold up? A welcome renaissance of the wine bar (with masterful cooking) was spearheaded by Blandford Comptoir and Noble Rot and naturally taken into the off-licence by P. Franco and The Laughing Heart. Single-issue restaurants thrive when skillfully done e.g. Padella, but can crisps on a conveyor belt (HipChips) make the same impact? Lauded chefs from other countries are still finding central London hard to crack while indigenous operators have fearlessly begun to explore Zone 4. Jason Atherton rolls on with Sosharu and Temple & Sons, the latter being, he says Brexit-proof but locally produced meat and veg is easy; staff not so much. Increased business rates will also take their toll next year. New services like the website Appear [Here] matching temporarily empty sites to budding entrepreneurs will prove invaluable on the trajectory between street food and permanence. Restaurant kitchens may be set up with no restaurants attached as superior delivery services get their skates on, but surely getting out to be with others is the point of restaurants…
Street food growth has continued to be strong this year with many more sites finding permanent homes including SMOKESTAK, Breddos Tacos and Butchies. This will only continue as it opens the door for operators who wouldn’t have had the opportunity otherwise. Restaurants with multiple sites are now being more widely accepted without being given the negative label of a ‘chain’. However, it is all in the delivery. Only those who continue to innovate with each site they open will stay ahead. 2016 has been the year of the taco but I think 2017 will see Mexican cuisine develop to be considered a veritable option with the likes of Santo Remedio and soon to open El Pastor. Healthy fast food arrived on the scene this year but there is room for so much more. With Pret opening a vegetarian only shop in central London, I think we can safely say that healthy eating has reached the masses. 2017 will see many more restaurants featuring the vegetable as the main event. Asian cuisine continues to inspire with the likes of BAO, som saa and Chinese Laundry bringing us regional menus that would have seemed much too challenging for the London customer only a few years ago. Londoners are seeking more of an experience when they dine out so there is more pressure on restaurateurs to deliver on so much more than the food. Anyone opening a restaurant that serves great food, great cocktails with an added good live music option, will do very well. There’s a big gap in the market for that. It is something I would certainly invest in.
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T HE BLOGGER
Dominic Rowntree, Samphire & Salsify 2016 has undoubtedly been the year of the restaurant opening – it’s been nonstop. Some may moan but I for one think it’s a good thing. It ensures those who have been around for yonks have to up their game and anyone looking to open needs to be at the top of their game to survive. Restaurants like Kiln, temper, SMOKESTAK, Elystan Street and Perilla have been some of the best openings we’ve seen in recent years. And even with such a vast choice of where to eat our dinner, it’s still hard bagging a reservation in the capital on a Thursday night. I just hope the killer rising rents and rates won’t destroy what is currently a booming industry. I think 2017 will see a rise in white tablecloths and oldfashioned pomp and a fall in small plates that come out when they’re ready. We’ll also see the continued rise of the social media ‘influencer’ but with a lot more #spon and #ad, as freebies are forced to be made more transparent.
T HE R E STAU R A N T DESIGNER
Shayne Brady, BradyWilliams Restaurant Design and 2016 in 4 words: pared back, industrial, minimalism. For me, it seems that the vast majority of restaurant openings of the past 12 months aspired to looking cool and relaxed - informal in their approach to the design and atmosphere. We have seen the focus placed heavily on the food and have experienced some exceptional menus but I fear that restaurant interiors, with a sweeping generalisation, have been overall disappointing in their design and aesthetic. A simplistic approach seems to have been adopted to ensure a setting that compliments but doesn’t overshadow the food. Great design however, does not need to suffer at the hands of a food-focused offering. After all, great restaurant designers should feel confident enough to create spaces that complement the food without needing to pare back to the basics with uncomfortable seating and poor lighting. Some refined minimal designs have been wonderful and inspiring, however I don’t feel there has been enough variety in the designs that we have seen this year.
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Richard Wassell, twentyretail
Restaurant property this year has been in line with the strange goings-on in the world with some things carrying on very much as before but at the same time some huge changes. Mark Hix and Damien Hirst revived the successful partnership of The Pharmacy when they opened Pharmacy 2 at the Newport Street gallery. We also saw the wonderful maturing of pop-up concepts moving to more permanent homes such as CLAW at The Sun & 13 Cantons in Soho. The opening of Padella and Flat Iron Square has cemented Southwark as one of the most exciting food destinations in London and Dom Lake has shown his ability to create and implement great ideas with Mercato at Elephant & Castle and Spiritland at Kings Cross. The disproportionate premiums for any small A3 site – however well it has previously traded or where it is located – have now been rebased at much more reasonable levels. Most occupiers have been carefully considering their overall projected property costs, with new developments often having much higher service charges and the inevitable impact of the new rating assessments. We have heard some frightening cases of draft new rates payable figures being 3 or 4 times the previous level. Even very successful businesses will find it difficult to absorb such significant increases. Next year is very exciting with a number of new developments providing some tremendous café, leisure and restaurant spaces. Landlords will also have to pay more attention to the overall property costs to keep their existing tenants at rent reviews and to structure deals on new lettings.
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
2017 needs to see the return of glamorous, sophisticated, warm and indulgent interiors. And indulgent doesn’t need to mean expensive, fussy or even old, but well thought through cohesive interiors. Ones that create the ultimate stage setting, exuding a warmth of finish and flattering lighting – a backdrop to the art of eating. With four restaurant designs opening in 2017, BradyWilliams hopes to challenge the current trend and match the excellence of food with an uncompromised atmosphere - no matter the price point of the menu.
T HE PROPERT Y AGENT
Delivering a new era for restaurants MIKEY WIL L IAMS TAKES A LO OK AT T HE E VER - CHANGING FOOD DEL I VERY SCENE AND I TS POTENTIAL CONSEQUENCES.
F
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
ood delivery services are hardly novel. We’ve long been able to order a Domino’s hand over the cash to a helmetwearing motorcyclist before gorging ourselves silly over three episodes of a box set. The next step came with the likes of Deliveroo, which connected existing restaurants and homebound customers via an army of delivery cyclists. It represented somewhat of a revolution in food delivery, as takeaways were no longer limited to the traditionally poor quality options on offer. Restaurant-quality food became available at home from both recognisable independents and chains unable to run their own delivery services, in turn enabling them to profit from a new revenue stream. The office worker chained to his desk and unable to get out for lunch was henceforth a likelier customer. As a result, the market has expanded at a rapid rate. A recent FT article cited market research by Euromonitor that found that the home delivery and takeaway food sector has outpaced the growth of restaurants in every year since 2009. Having seen Deliveroo most recently valued at an estimated $600m, tech giants like Uber and Amazon have entered the fray for
the hearts and stomachs of all, the former via seemingly never-ending promotion codes due to its existing size and war-chests. Outside of this ‘mass market’, there are also startups pursuing more niche offerings. Feast caters specifically to late-night owls, linking up with restaurants able to satisfy craving from 10pm-5am in certain areas of London. Supper provides a higher-end option - their roster includes the Michelin-starred Tamarind, and they promise to deliver Londoners ‘exceptional food’ via custom-made, thermally lined food boxes and Japanese scooters. All of this begs the question: where will it end? Or, conversely, has the market reached saturation point? Statistics show that investment in the sector has actually peaked. This is not to say existing services are going to shrink: demand is far too strong for that. The aforementioned FT article cited Martin Mignot, a partner at a firm called Index Ventures, that has invested in both Deliveroo and Just Eat. He believes the outcome will likely be fewer, dominant companies that do extremely well. Market entrants may well struggle to get a foothold, and the likes of Feast and Supper may even see their niches encroached upon by their larger competitors.
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Even more recently, a new wave of food delivery has begun to emerge - that of the high quality, ‘virtual restaurant’. The concept is currently making waves in US cities like New York and San Francisco, and involves the creation of kitchen hubs where food is prepared for delivery alone. Silicon Valley investors are throwing their weight behind it: Munchery, a San Francisco-based start up providing gourmet, ready-to-heat meals, has already raised £117m to date. The trend is being partly driven by what some restaurateurs deem to be the unprofitability of the bricksand-mortar sites, with Momofuku’s David Chang arguably at its forefront. With ever-rising real estate prices (something that will resonate with London residents and business owners alike) and staffing costs, site profits can be slender to say. Sometimes prone to hyperbole, Chang has called it “legitimately one of the dumbest businesses you could possibly get into”. His virtual restaurant concept, named Ando, focuses upon dishes that are built to travel well - their version of a Philly Cheesesteak uses chickpea hozon rather than excessive amounts of cheese to avoid customers receiving a sodden sandwich upon arrival.
Image credit: Gabriele Stabile
Although the concept is better developed across the pond, it is starting to emerge here too. Deliveroo has begun investing in its own kitchen hub spaces. Dubbed RooBoxes, these off-site kitchens aim to provide customers with delivery options that were previously out of reach due to
access to acclaimed Indian food that is designed to travel well and quickly due to a hyper-local source - a dream for any takeaway enthusiast. All of this will undoubtedly mean consequences for the restaurant industry. UK restaurateurs may well
“a new wave of food delivery has begun to emerge - that of the high quality, ‘virtual restaurant’.” begin to diversify and create deliveryonly services as their US counterparts have done, but the likelihood of this being at the expense of the former is unlikely. As we all know there are ultimately aspects of the restaurant experience that can never be recreated at home. Food delivery is circumscribed by the very fact it has to travel, as the example of Ando’s Cheesesteak illustrates. Meanwhile luxury services like Supper -19-
The ever-evolving restaurant delivery scene hardly heralds the restaurant apocalypse. It is certainly changing the game, but in a largely positive way by enabling more people to access good food at home, as well as creating new revenue streams for restaurants.
Mikey Williams @LondonFixr
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
the lack of restaurant in their local area. Deliveroo makes the upfront site investment (without the need to pay for a site big enough to house customers) and recoups some of it via a revenue cut from the restaurant brands that move in. The current plan is for sites to house one brand each, and one recent sign-up includes Motu, from JKS Restaurants. Situated in Battersea, the Motu RooBox is an apt encapsulation of the evolution of food delivery. It means locals will have
might deliver Michelin-starred food, but hardly the experience. As Marina O’Loughlin put it after trying the service, “much of what you’re paying for at this level isn’t just what you’re putting down your neck, but service and ambience”. Even Chang, with the high profile, delivery-only service, has said “I’m committed, more than ever, to improving my brick-and-mortar restaurants. I believe in that dining experience; it’s why I exist and it’s not going to go away.”
3O under 3O MEE T C ODE HO SP I TAL I T Y’S 3 O UNDER 3 O. O U R L I S T I S N O T R A N K E D - T H E Y H AV E B E E N C H O S E N FO R T H E WAY T H E Y A R E R E D E F I N I N G T H E L O N D O N H O S P I TA L I T Y I N D U ST R Y.
Tom Adams, 28 Pitt Cue & Coombeshead Farm Adams was born in Pitt near Winchester. After stints in the kitchen at The Ledbury, Neal’s Yard Dairy and The Blueprint Café, he founded Pitt Cue Co at 22. After running a food truck on London’s South Bank, he opened a restaurant in 2012. Earlier this year Pitt Cue moved to the City and, along with April Bloomfield, he launched Coombeshead Farm in Cornwall.
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
Elizabeth Allen, 28 Kaizen Singapore-born Allen trained as an architect before dropping out to be a chef. She’s worked at The Royal Oak in Berkshire, Kitchen Table, Galvin at Windows and undertook culinary internships at L’Enclume and Roganic. In 2014, she became head chef at Smokehouse before launching Pidgin and winning a Michelin star. Allen is now working on her own restaurant, Kaizen London. Image credit: Daniel Harris -20-20-
Will Bowlby, 28 Kricket At the age of 16, Bowlby set up his own private catering company called will2cook. After university, he joined Le Café Anglais and worked with Rowley Leigh for two years before moving to become head chef at Cheval in Mumbai. Bowlby returned to London in 2014 and worked at Cinnamon Kitchen for eight months before cofounding Kricket in 2015. Rik Campbell, 28 Kricket Campbell started his own events and promotions business at university, which he subsequently sold. After moving to London in 2010, Campbell started working for Deloitte in the City specialising in hospitality. It was in 2014 when he decided to leave Deloitte and start Kricket with his best friend, Will Bowlby.
Harneet Baweja, 29 Gunpowder Baweja was born and raised in Kolkata, India. It wasn’t until 2014 that he moved to London with his wife, Devina. Captivated by London’s vibrant and diverse restaurant scene, he launched Gunpowder in Spitalfields in November 2015. The home-style Indian restaurant focuses on generation-old family recipes and bringing the food of Baweja’s youth to London.
Shing Tat Chung, 29 BAO Chung grew up in Nottingham, where his parents ran Cantonese restaurants. He studied at the prestigious Slade School of Fine Art before completing a Masters at the Royal College of Art. Along with wife Erchen and older sister Wai Ting, he travelled across Taiwan, where they dreamt up BAO, taking inspiration from the informal street food culture and culinary traditions. Erchen Chang, 26 BAO
Jessica Corrigan, 21 Network London PR
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Corrigan has restaurants in her DNA – thanks to growing up around great food and her father Richard’s restaurants, where she worked as a teen during school holidays. Corrigan currently works at Maureen Mills’ Network London PR, where, alongside Mills and Tom Rogers, she works with some of the UK’s most talented chefs and restaurants.
Chang spent her childhood in the Taiwanese capital Taipei, before moving to the UK aged 14 to study in Kingston. She later enrolled at the Slade School of Fine Art. Erchen’s love of Taiwanese food came from her grandmother’s home cooking.
Richard Davis, 26 Sager + Wilde Davis started his hospitality career working with Stephen Macintosh and Juan Ramirez at Bar Boulud in Knightsbridge. He then moved to Paris for a year where he worked at Saturne before returning to work at Terroir and Brawn. Davis joined Corbin & King’s Brasserie Zédel, where he worked for two years before moving to Sager + Wilde.
Missy Flynn, 29 Quilombero Missy Flynn is a former bartender at 69 Colebrooke Row, Happiness Forgets and Quo Vadis, who also worked extensively with Hawksmoor. In 2012 she set up the recently closed Rita’s alongside friends. Her latest venture with chef Gabriel Pryce is canteen-style restaurant Quilombero, which is opening in East India Dock.
Lydia Forte, 28 Rocco Forte Hotels
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After leaving school Forte completed a cookery course at Leith’s and worked in some of her father’s hotels. During her time at Oxford University, she trained as a maitre d’ at The Wolseley and in 2013 completed an MBA at INSEAD. Forte started working full time at Rocco Forte Hotels in 2014 as bar and restaurant development manager.
Sabrina Gidda, 29 Bernardi’s Gidda is currently head chef of Bernardi’s in Marylebone. Originally from Wolverhampton, she has a degree in Fashion PR and Marketing and has worked at The Dorchester, Draft House and for Restaurant Associates, where she was head chef at law firm Freshfields Bruckhaus Deringer. Gidda is a two time Roux Scholarship finalist.
Irene Forte, 26 Rocco Forte Hotels After graduating from Oxford, Forte completed a 6-month development programme at Brown’s Hotel before joining Rocco Forte Hotels full-time in January 2013 as Quality Standards Executive. In 2014, her role expanded to brand manager, as well as overseeing the spa and fitness proposition across the group of hotels.
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Ruth Hansom, 21 The Ritz Hansom first started cooking when at school and decided to enter Springboards future chef competition for Under 16s, finishing in second place in the national final. Upon moving to London, Hansom was given a job by Frederick Forster then of the Boundary. Hansom is now working at the Ritz and this year completed the Royal Academy of Culinary Arts apprenticeship.
Gus Haughton, 22 Soho House & Co Haughton grew up in The Havelock Tavern in Kensington, which was run by his father. He left university after a year to pursue a modelling career but ended up working at The River Café in 2013, where he worked his way up to headwaiter. Haughton joined Soho House in August as a floor manager and currently works at Café Monico.
Dom Jacobs, 28 Running Horse Jacobs started working in hospitality while at Leeds University, where he worked at a bar called Épernay before becoming general manager. At 21, he moved to London to work as bar manager at the Fifth Floor Bar at Harvey Nichols, where he remained for two years before becoming bars director at Sketch. In 2013, Jacobs took over the Running Horse in Mayfair.
Merlin Labron-Johnson, 25 Portland and Clipstone Labron-Johnson knew at 16 that he wanted to be a chef. His first proper job was at The Elephant in Torquay under Simon Hulstone before working with Michael Caines. He cooked in Michelin-starred kitchens across Europe before opening Portland with Will Lander and Dan Morgenthau, and was awarded a Michelin star at just 24. Earlier this year he opened Clipstone with Lander and Morgenthau.
Ollie Jones, 21 Lyle’s Jones has followed his father, the founder of Soho House, into hospitality. Starting out as a waiter at The River Café for two years, he then moved on to work as head of front of house for lifestyle brand, The Store in Berlin and London. Jones is currently working as a waiter at James Lowe’s Lyle’s in Shoreditch.
Tom Mackenzie, 27 J Sheekey
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Mackenzie started in the City as a private equity broker before quickly realising the corporate world was not for him. He contacted Chris Corbin for advice on what to do and two weeks later started as a maitre d’ at The Wolseley. He then went across to The Beaumont hotel to open The Colony Grill. Mackenzie is currently assistant general manager at J Sheekey.
Ben Marks, 24 Perilla Marks started his chef career as a commis chef at Operakällaren in Stockholm before going on to to be a chef apprentice at Claridge’s in London. After becoming chef de partie at noma in Copenhagen, he returned to London to work at The Square before launching Perilla in November 2016. Matt Emmerson, 25 Perilla Having grown up with Marks, Emmerson went to Sussex University where he got a 1:1 in Chemistry. He returned to London to follow his interest in food and worked at POLPO Farringdon and Ape & Bird. After working at the relaunched POLPETTO on Berwick Street, he left in September 2015 to set up Perilla.
Luca Missaglia, 28 Aqua Group Native Italian Missaglia began his career in London in 2008 at The O bar, where he won ‘Best Bartender in London’ from Imbibe before moving on to LAB Bar in Soho. He subsequently joined Quo Vadis becoming Club Manager. It was in 2014 that Missaglia joined Aqua group as bar manager and he is currently based at aqua shard.
Darius Namdar, 29 Mark’s Club
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Namdar is a familiar face with the wellheeled clientele of W1. After a career in financial services, he moved over to the world of hospitality by taking his first job as front of house at The Wolseley before opening the restaurant at Chiltern Firehouse. Namdar then opened The Colony Grill Room at the Beaumont before joining Mark’s Club as a director.
George Pitkeathley, 23 PILAU
Ben Murphy, 25 The Woodford
At the age of 14 Pitkeathley started in hospitality washing dishes at Arnold & Henderson before joining Quo Vadis as a waiter and became restaurant manager at just 19. He then moved to be senior maitre’d at the Rosewood hotel. In 2015 he launched PILAU as a pop-up before opening PILAU Fitzrovia. Pitkeathley opens PILAU Soho this month.
Koffmann protégé Murphy made the industry headlines this year when The Woodford won The London Evening Standard’s restaurant of the year, where he is currently head chef. Murphy will be moving on from the Woodford at the end of the year to new projects and has his eyes firmly set on a Michelin star.
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Adam Rawson, 26
Joshua Rose, 27 Soho House & Co
Rawson started cooking at the age of 15 and has worked for chefs including Nuno Mendes and Claude Bosi. In 2014 he was appointed head chef at Peruvian restaurant Pachamama and won Young British Foodies Chef of the Year in 2015. He is now running a number of residencies around London with plans to open his own restaurant soon.
Rose studied Real Estate Management at Nottingham Trent University before moving to London to work at the Berkeley Group. He then moved to restaurant property agent Shelley Sandzer for two years before being headhunted by Soho House in October 2014 to be head of property acquisitions. In 2017, Rose is launching his own consultancy.
Christoph Schrottenbaum, 23 Dinner by Heston Schrottenbaum studied hospitality in Austria for five years. After graduating he moved to London to work at Dinner by Heston, where he still currently works as a floor manager. Schrottenbaum received the Annual Award of Excellence from the Royal Academy of Culinary Arts and was a finalist at The Gold Service Scholarship. In 2017, he moves to Melbourne to become assistant restaurant manager at Vue de Monde.
Tom Sellers, 29 Restaurant Story Sellers started working in the kitchen at 16 before his boss encouraged him to go to London, where he worked with Tom Aikens before moving to New York to work at Thomas Keller’s Per Se. Sellers also worked at Trinity and noma. He opened Restaurant Story in 2013 and gained a Michelin star only five months after opening, when he was 26 years old.
Sunaina Sethi, 29 JKS Restaurants Self-taught sommelier Sunaina Sethi is one third of JKS Restaurants, along with her brothers Karam and Jyoti. Sethi flirted with a career in finance and banking before pursuing her love of wine and is now wine buyer for Gymkhana, Trishna and Hopper’s. She is also responsible for front of house operations and HR at JKS.
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Dan Smith, 25 The Clove Club Smith, sous chef at The Clove Club, first set foot in a professional kitchen in his home town of St Albans aged 15. At 16 he left school for a full-time course at Westminster Kingsway College, working nights in a local restaurant. He was named Young Chef of the Year 2016 by Observer Food Monthly. April Lily Partridge, 23 The Clove Club Partridge discovered a love for food when carrying out work experience in a kitchen. She was previously with Caprice Holdings for five years, working through the ranks from commis chef to chef de partie at The Ivy, 34 and The Club at The Ivy. Chase Lovecky, 28 The Clove Club Head chef of The Clove Club, Lovecky was born in Maine, America. He has spent time in the kitchens of Jean-Georges and Momofuku Ko in New York, before helping open Momofuku Seiobo in Sydney.
Ollie Templeton, 25 Carousel Templeton co-founded Carousel in Marylebone in 2014 with his brother Ed and cousins Anna and Will. His cooking has been influenced by his time living in Spain. He attended culinary school before working as sous chef at Moro in Exmouth Market. At Carousel, Templeton cooked alongside the likes of Geoffrey Lee (Jū-Ni), Ravinder Bhogal (Jikoni) and Olia Hercules.
Claire Wright, 28 Paradise Garage Wright is currently general manager at Paradise Garage in Bethnal Green. After university, she joined D&D London’s Graduate Management Scheme at Kensington Place before being promoted to floor manager within six months and assistant manager within another six months. In 2013 she joined Skylon as assistant manager before moving on to Blueprint Café as restaurant manager.
Luke Thomas, 23
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Thomas knew from the age of 12 that he wanted to be a chef. It was a meal at Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s that prompted him to get into a Michelinstarred kitchen. He worked at The Chester Grosvenor before he launched his first restaurant Luke’s Dining Room at 18, becoming the UK’s youngest head chef. Thomas has partnered with hostel brand, Generator advising on their F&B.
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Restaurant to A Z CALLUM EDGE CHARTS THE MAJOR FORCES T R ANSFOR MING RESTAUR ANTS THIS YEAR A THROUGH Z.
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coustics – Bloomberg’s Richard Vines and eaterextraordinaire Andy Hayler have both noted rising decibels in the capital. Smaller premises, harder surfaces and possibly a little more talk (about Brexit, Trump, the weather) have all contributed to louder dining of late.
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runch – Perhaps the most over-PR-ed ‘meal’ of the year, brunch usually bills itself as bottomless but rather ends legless. Anything goes – bacon, burgers, brisket, beans or Bloody Marys – at what has become, let’s face it, a dull and expensive way of filling the gap between breakfast and lunch.
capital embraces a more authentic taste of the subcontinental kitchen.
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ame – Although ‘tis the season at time of writing, our country’s feathered and furred natural inhabitants seem to have taken even more of a starring role on menus this year, the pithivier being the layered and flaky vehicle of choice.
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ough – Decadent doughnuts and colourful croissants contribute to a more premium range of baked goods emerging from industry ovens. Shout out also to the Paris-Brest, the jewel du moment in the pastry chef ’s crown.
nvironmentalism – ‘Local’, ‘sustainable’ and ‘environmentally friendly’ are no longer buzzwords but, increasingly, mantras for the industry. The war on waste continues, for instance, with a takeaway app to combat the problem of leftovers and cocktail menus based around urban foraging and decay.
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amily – Home-style Indian cooking rooted in family tradition has emerged at the likes of Jikoni, the Darjeeling Express and Gunpowder, as the
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iln – It’s been lauded as “the Thai Barrafina” and is, accordingly, almost impossible to get in. Ben Chapman has clearly done it again with this Thai street-food-inspired joint where the menu changes daily and music comes on vinyl. Perhaps the industry favourite of the year? evantine – Smoke, spice and all things nice have prolonged London’s love for the Levant at Berber & Q Shawarma Bar, The Barbary, Honey & Smoke, Foley’s and Yosma. And Lahmacun, a Middle Eastern pizza (of sorts), is quickly becoming a leader in fast-casual dining.
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acio e pepe – This simple Venetian pasta dish with cheese, water and black pepper has become something of an ‘it-food’ for 2016. Who cares who started it, we all now know where to join the line. But make it two plates.
tasting menus as an alternative to wine and beer. As seen at The Clove Club, Flat Three and The Pass.
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ealth – The “clean-eating” clan is well on the way to achieving peak wellness by freeing us of gluten and spiralising anything in Whole Foods without a pulse. It’s all ‘detox this’ and ‘raw that’, as menus have had to cope with the demands of a more healthconscious guest. mports – Strangely, London hasn’t taken too well to various internationally acclaimed chefs setting up shop. Either having closed early or otherwise been ignored and panned by critics; some of the most exciting openings on paper have remained just that.
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uice pairings – Non-alcoholic blends of fruit, vegetables and spices are turning up on ‘juice flights’ designed to match -30-
ichelin – With its social media accounts and a recent award ceremony both ostensibly organised by interns, the ever-out-of-datecompany-in-the-business-of-sellingtyres-and-seemingly-knowingnothing-about-restaurants continues to perplex.
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eighbourhood – Zone 1, shmone 1. Rents risen, draconian councils and staff settled, restaurateurs have had to set their sights on new openings further afield: Leytonstone, Stokey and Chelsea are among local-friendly destinations for the well-stomached suburbanite.
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ffal – Fergus Henderson’s nose-to-tail philosophy edges further towards the mainstream with a choice of more ‘accessible’ eats to the squeamish consumer: brain burgers at MEATliquor, trotter nuggets at BAO and kid offal pide at Black Axe Mangal.
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oké – The Hawaiian import has probably not done as well as expected when it was introduced just in time for summer. The weather certainly was pleasant, but when offered the choice of this glorified Pret salad and an oozing ice-cream sandwich we knew which we preferred.
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akeaways – With the homedelivery market booming, restaurateurs are doing all they can to bring dishes to your doorstep. It raises some difficult questions for the future of actual restaurants, however the savviest operators are opening delivery-only sites to evolve with the times.
mami – Dashi and miso, all things fermented (kimchi, sauerkraut and yoghurt), aged beef, Japanese kombu and British kelp, roasted greens, homemade fish sauce, savoury cocktails – there’s seems to be no end to this now decadeold ‘trend’.
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ueues – How do you solve a problem like queuing? It actually turned out to be rather simple: by putting down your name and number, going for a drink or three and getting ‘the call’ an hour or so later. More than bearable and makes an evening of it.
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esidencies – Short-term popups are the name of the game, as chefs are being given the chance to trial their wares in the hope of finding a full-time site. The Sun & 13 Cantons, Climpson’s Arch, Leicester House and Platform1 have all played host to some future household names.
eren Wilson – Food and wine writer, Zeren Wilson of Bitten & Written has carefully crafted wine lists all over town. If the
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egetables – As the consumer shift towards quality over quantity in meat consumption and the rise in plant-based diets takes hold, veg-led menus have become commonplace. With the kale revolution firmly behind us, it’s now the turn of sprouts, cauliflowers, Jerusalem artichokes and pumpkins.
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ine – Bacchanalia reigns with booze on equal footing as food at the likes of Legs, P. Franco and the Laughing Heart. At last, incentive to explore further down the list. And new app ‘Drop’ from The 10 Cases can deliver a bottle on an electric bike in under an hour. We’ve never imbibed so well.
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iao long bao – Having long been a staple of Chinatown’s dim sum trolleys, the soup dumpling is one of this year’s most-papped small eats. Whilst Andrew Wong’s modern interpretation continues to win fans, queues abound at London Fields’s Dumpling Shack and Mamalan in Shoreditch.
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critics raved about it, it’s probably one of his: Smoking Goat, Kiln, the Newman Arms, Coombeshead Farm and Blacklock... Hic hic hooray.
Callum Edge @edgeandspoon
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t James’s Market – A rather grand patch of turf south of the bustle of Piccadilly Circus is now (long overdue) home to seven new big-hitting restaurants, including Salt Yard Group’s Veneta, New York-import Aquavit and Anzu (fine dining from Tonkotsu).
oung Turks – Three chefs behind the Young Turks collective – James Lowe, Ben Greeno and Isaac McHale – are largely responsible for London’s esteemed culinary reputation today. Lyle’s chef collaborations, dinner at The Clove Club and McHale’s latest venture Luca are the hottest tables in town.
Optimise your nutrition to get the edge this winter JAMES COLLINS GIVES SOME PROFESSIONAL ADVICE ON HOW BEST TO TACKL E T HE FEST IVE SEASON WHEN I T COMES TO PERFOR MANCE NU T RI T ION .
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ecember is typically the time where we get bombarded with the same old ‘New Year, New You’ stories, followed by tales of the January detox. We are conditioned to feast over Christmas, then fast and refrain from any social activity other than the gym come New
themselves go’ over the Christmas period. In reality the challenge in sport is quite the opposite. The Christmas period is one of the busiest times of the year, especially within Premier League football, with an increased number of matches to support TV schedules - this means very little recovery time
“This is a time where the key principles of performance nutrition from sport and performing arts can also support hospitality workers...” Year before eventually arriving back at our usual weight and habits by late February. I’ve always been asked what the festive season means for professional athletes and whether they’re allowed to ‘let
for players. This is also true for the entertainment sector with actors and the hospitality staff in full flight in the West End. Working long hours with little time to recover means nutrition becomes very -32-
important to fuel the body effectively to meet these physical demands. Regular exercise is also key to improve fitness, boost energy levels, and for overall wellbeing.
How can performance nutrition help? This is a time where the key principles of performance nutrition from sport and performing arts can also support hospitality workers with a demanding schedule look better, feel healthier, and achieve their own personal best. The key message from performance nutrition is to eat in a more structured way to get the best out of your body. It promotes still having a social life, eating out with friends and getting fitter – not dieting and hibernating. This positive ethos around food, exercise and improving the body, is fundamental. This is all built around 4 key principles:
1. The Individual.
Making a start
We all have individual needs from our nutrition. These depend on how active and demanding your lifestyle is, as well as understanding your body’s individual physiology.
Most people I speak to in the hospitality industry are interested in having more energy at work (and away from work) but it often remains a ‘nice to have’. So, here are 8 key tips to get started. (See page 34)
2. The Goal. Your personal goals require a bespoke nutrition plan. Whether that’s getting fitter and leaner, improving energy levels, or simply living a healthier and more productive lifestyle.
Food provides the fuel for your daily activity. Your body requires different types of fuel depending on the physical demands of different workouts. 4. The Mind & Body. Both the mind and the body need to be in tune with your nutrition, creating winning habits to support lasting change.
James Collins Jamescollinsnutrition.com @JamesnCollins1 James Collins is Head of Nutrition at Arsenal Football Club. He’s worked with some of the world’s best atheletes over the last decade within Olympic and professional sport.
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3. The Activity.
8 tips for optimising your nutrition this winter
1. Have a goal and commit
5. Fuel for hard days
For athletes and performing artists their body is their most important asset. They are committed to understanding and optimising it.
Longer work days or training days require more fuel – this means being clever with your carbs
2. Shape your environment
As a general rule: carbs are an important fuel for hard work. The key is to use them at the right time to provide energy – a meal containing a portion of low GI (slow releasing) carbs before a long shift can help to fuel the body and maintain energy levels – sweet potato, farro, basmati rice, quinoa and pasta are all good options.
Make sure home and work are stocked with the healthy foods you need.
5. Function over fashion
Whether this is to get fitter for a 10k run, lose weight, or just to have more energy at home with the kids. Write it down. Make it real and commit.
Having healthy options available makes a new routine stick. Most clients need to increase their daily protein intake, especially when exercising - so versatile higher-protein options such as; Greek yoghurt, lean meats, quinoa or buckwheat salads, mixed nuts & seeds – can be taken to work or at home after a late finish, replacing sugary snacks.
Don’t be fooled by fashionable juices – unless it has a function, is it helping or hindering your goals?
3. Plan your week ahead
6. Track your progress and refine
When are you exercising? Socialising with friends? Relaxing?
What’s working? Where have you ‘derailed’? Learn from your last week.
Plan ahead to make a workout part of your weekly routine. If you’re busy this may just be a 20 min gym session a couple of times a week. Make a start – it doesn’t need to be each day to start with – but even small changes will have a big effect on your fitness and energy levels.
A time to reflect each week is important. Just 15 minutes over a coffee. Do you need to keep a food diary? Absolutely not. I encourage clients to record their weight just once a week (at the same time). Also note how you’re feeling (e.g. energy levels) and any big deviations from your routine, so you can make any adjustments for the following week.
4. Involve a friend or colleague
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Train together in a new venue or just update on your progress. Make it fun! Find someone who wants to make a start. A partner or workmate are both good options. This teamwork and support are important to keep motivation up during the tougher times (e.g. very busy work period, feeling fatigued).
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There are lots of fashionable cold-pressed juices marketed to ‘improve vitality’ and ‘detox’ – but often these contain lots of sugar and can be slowing your progress.
7. Don’t hibernate Keep to your summer timings. Try out new exercise classes and restaurants Avoiding the Deliveroo mentality and trying out new restaurants with friends is the right message from the hospitality industry. This is the same when it comes to exercise as part of your new goals – go and try a new pop-up exercise class (spinning, yoga) – there’s something for everyone in London, to avoid death by the treadmill.
TripAdvisor tales Restaurateur Matt Paice says everything he knows about hospitality he’s learned from terrible TripAdvisor reviews. He explains why.
I opened my restaurant, Killer Tomato in Shepherd’s Bush, in August of this year with precisely zero experience in front-of-house. Although I’ve hired some brilliant people whom I can trust totally, the order of service is down to me and I’m out of my depth - which is why my new bible is the bad reviews of recently closed restaurants on TripAdvisor. Of course all restaurants get some bad reviews from TripAdvisor users, many of them entirely unfair. The restaurant ‘didn’t know about’ your reservation; you ‘weren’t informed’ about the twohour time limit for your table; you didn’t get to sit at the ‘best’ table. But the difference with reading the reviews
their £15 sandwiches. The operator paid a hefty premium for the site, engaged a top food PR and executed a stylish fit out. But it was all for nothing because the customers baulked at the prices. They disliked that restaurant, simply because they felt it gave poor value for money. Similarly, take the critically-acclaimed American restaurant in Marylebone whose TripAdvisor shows one-star review after one-star review from customers whose only real complaint was that they weren’t getting enough food for their money. A £23 beef brisket dish that came with no sides or garnish provoked outrage. Not even their happiest customers thought it was
“...my new bible is the bad reviews of recently closed restaurants on TripAdvisor.” of recently closed restaurants is that you know how the story ends: they never made it work.
Take the TripAdvisor page for the casual seafood restaurant that launched in Fitzrovia in November 2014 and closed 15 months later. From start to finish, customers were fuming about how little shellfish they were getting in
Meanwhile, on the service side, frontof-house bordering on the hostile is also a common feature in the TripAdvisor reviews of restaurants that have gone under. Take the US diner restaurant in the City, initially feted by its operators as a potential 10-site chain. A onestar-rating customer told the story of having ordered a burger ‘naked’ (with lettuce leaves instead of a bun). The manager first insisted this was not possible and then said they would charge extra. When the customer came to pay, they found that a £2 side salad had been added to the bill, despite the fact that the chef had swapped out -35-
The reviews of shuttered restaurants often tell the tale of operators who did not respond to feedback. For example, that American restaurant in Marylebone that chose to brine their chicken before frying. Customers were repeatedly sending back the dish for being undercooked, as the brining made it pink, and they refused to believe front-of-house’s insistence that the chicken was rigorously temp checked. This problem continued for over six months, according to all the one-star TripAdvisor reviews, without a workaround ever apparently being found. In contrast to all this, you will not find food quality issues in the bad reviews on TripAdvisor, or at least not as the stated main factor. Presumably this is because even dishes that are merely so-so can be forgotten. But if you leave a restaurant feeling ripped-off or having had a hostile encounter with front-of-house, that’s your whole night out ruined. This is the lesson I’ve learned from all these reviews, as a novice restaurant manager. So the next time you hear of a restaurant closing its doors, visit its TripAdvisor page as quick as you can – the reviews get deleted after a few months. There’ll be lessons aplenty.
Matt Paice Matt Paice is the founder of Killer Tomato
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The bad reviews of failed restaurants tell a consistent story (unlike bad reviews of successful places), and centre on just a couple of issues. As a clueless amateur, that’s what I’ve found most useful. Executive summary: it’s not about the food. Rather, there are two key elements of the restaurant experience that determine the difference between delightful and dismal: value for money and service.
a good deal: one five-star review said “Great food, great margaritas, great service… couldn’t ask for any more” and went on to score it 3/5 for value. That restaurant lasted two years.
brioche for lettuce. For the cost of a few salad leaves, that manager earned the restaurant an enemy for life who rushed to TripAdvisor to vent their feelings. The restaurant was rebranded after 18 months.
Looking for a new business recipe? Our property experts will engage in finding the right topping for your business. Allow us to serve you. (It will be delish!)
020 7100 5520 - cdgleisure.com -36-
Crisis management For the second article in this legal missive series, Alun Thomas of Thomas & Thomas focuses on risk and crisis management.
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et’s face it; we all have daily disasters, particularly if you commute on Southern or Southeastern. Anticipating and managing a crisis in a bar or restaurant is a monumental task of substantial magnitude. There are three stages: How risky does it get? Risk assessments: These mustn’t just be seen as something you have to do and a bit of paper that gets filed away. Don’t rely on consultants to have complete control over the content. It’s vital that, as a business owner, you both input and understand the risks to your businesses, the actions you need to take and the consequences.
are those of “strict liability”. That means that the prosecution doesn’t need to show that you knowingly did or omitted to do something. The law assumes that you knew or should have known an offence is being committed unless you can prove that you have exercised all due diligence to avoid the commission of an offence. The simplest things Such a defence not only means that you need to have the appropriate systems and assessments in place but also that you have checked that those systems are being complied with. To give an example: A premises licence holder was alleged to have committed an offence whereby a member of staff sold alcohol to an underage person.
“Reputation management is another danger: you will be aware of the downsides of social media.” Too many risk assessments are generic. The consequence of which is that they might not identify specific risks which, if an accident or loss occurs, could impact on your insurance premium or indeed result in criminal and civil sanctions; even a licensing offence can result in a fine of £20,000 and/or imprisonment.
Many offences under the criminal law
The wheel comes off Firstly, preserve the scene. If it’s a serious accident, don’t allow staff to clean up or move anything. You should take photographs and preserve CCTV. The investigator will want to see copies immediately upon their arrival. You should also take statements from witnesses and take -37-
Record keeping is essential. Where an incident or injury occurs, both the licensing authorities and the health and safety executive will closely examine not just the records of this incident but those that may have happened previously. As a business owner, you should check these records regularly and show what investigation, remedial steps and actions have been taken. Reputation management is another danger: you will be aware of the downsides of social media. If the incident is serious, you may want to have a measured response ready even if it is short and non-committal. Importantly, having a disaster recovery plan in place can save a lot of heartache if there is an incident. After the storm Hopefully, you will have had in place appropriate policies, procedures and safeguards to avoid an incident. However, accidents do happen. After the incident, you should consider whether your procedures need to be amended or augmented and whether further training is required. Learning from mistakes is a crucial part of avoiding them in the future. This article should not be treated as detailed legal advice in respect of which you should always contact a solicitor.
Alun Thomas @T_A_T_P Alun Thomas is a partner at Thomas & Thomas Partners, who specialises in premises licensing and planning law. For further information, email Alun: athomas@tandtp.com
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It is the business owner’s responsibility to ensure that such assessments are comprehensive and complied with. Make sure that your staff are both aware and trained in such assessments and policies. This includes the terms of your planning permission and Premises Licence. Even the simplest of things, such as not renewing your permissions for external seating can result in significant financial losses if the appropriate systems are not in place.
That person had been trained in underage sales and indeed held a personal licence. There were training records showing he had been trained. However, the training record had not been signed and had not been signed by the area manager to check that such individuals had been trained. As such, there was a break in the due diligence chain as there was no evidence that the training had taken place. The owner could have been prosecuted, although in this case the council were persuaded that it was not in the public interest to do so.
immediate legal advice at the same time as informing your insurers.
The art of collaboration Anna Sulan Masing explores the idea of the industry collaborating more.
Hospitality is built on teamwork. The art of collaboration in a kitchen and on the floor comes as second nature as both sides of the pass pull together to create memorable moments for guests. But I’m curious to know how far we can extend that idea of collaboration. Can collaboration become a much more business embedded notion?
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
The Oxford English Dictionary defines collaboration as ‘an action of working with someone to produce something’ or, the ‘traitorous cooperation with an enemy’. Within business it is easy to see how both these meanings could be applied, and the charges of collaboration could seem very real and dangerous indeed. The restaurant industry is complicated. It offers plates of food to be consumed, plus the concept of hospitality. Therefore, it is both consumer and service, tangible and intangible, and from that comes the magic of when and how it all fits together, and just works. It has also been a tumultuous year. So, to understand how collaboration fits into our industry it would be good to take stock of where we are. This autumn the pound dropped with dramatic headlines warning UK holidaymakers that their money was worth less than the Euro. For an industry that survives on narrow profit margins and works with global produce, news like this can cause a sharp intake in breath and it may seem a tall ask to think conceptually about something like ‘collaboration’. And yet, if we look around we see the building blocks of
progressive collaborative notions, across the industry. Clerkenwell Boy’s #CookForSyria has become somewhat of a movement that is spreading beyond the UK. This project brings together many establishments and individuals for a very clear purpose and strong message. Other charity initiatives such as Action Against
Group’s Home Grown, Natalia Ribbe and Jackson Boxer’s Sunday Sessions, and of course mine and Dan Doherty’s Chefs of Tomorrow, bring together a younger generation to collaborate. In October the TMRW project launched our front of house initiative that saw restaurants work together to give their staff learning opportunities. It
“The Oxford English Dictionary defines collaboration as ‘an action of working with someone to produce something’...” Hunger, bring equally passionate and dedicated response from the industry, and make the act of collaborating an easy one.
then dawned on me how brave it is to think of a competitor as a collaborative partner, particular when it comes to staff, which many are in dire need of.
Collaboration is often thought of as a way to begin a creative process – to brainstorm, to inject new ideas, to be inspired. Guest chefs in restaurants, such as the guest series at Lyle’s or Gary Usher’s guest nights, sees restaurants hosting other chefs and working together to creative unique menus. These evenings provide inspiration for junior members of the team, right through to the head chefs. It also allows for front of house to experience different cuisine, see how others work and broaden horizons. The Dairy
I spoke to Chantelle Nicholson, chef patron of Tredwells, on how she felt about collaboration and she emphasised the enormous importance of it. Collaboration is sharing knowledge and creates support, “we can learn from each other’s experience and discuss common challenges”. She also spoke about enthusiasm, which echoed others. The restaurant environment can be very focused and insular as you spend so many hours in the same building. James Ramsden, co-owner of Pidgin, and Emma Underwood, general manger of
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Burnt Truffle, spoke about ‘cabin fever’ and how input from those outside of their restaurants can simply bring much needed ‘fresh air’. Theatre and performance is an industry I have always thought was a similar environment to hospitality - teamwork, creative minds, showmanship, and the sense of belonging and community. I spoke with performance artist Paula Varjack, whose work has taken her across the globe and led her to collaborate with a variety of people to create various types of theatre. Paula found that collaboration was often an
of a community is not about being homogenous, but rather finding where you fit into it, your individuality and your USP. A diverse industry is a strong and interesting one. And so, what is the art of collaboration? Collaboration is a way to work together. It is clear that collaborative work ethics are ingrained in hospitality’s DNA, and are now seeping out into many aspects of the business and developing a strong foothold. The art of this particular notion of working together is in the act of building and strengthening a community – the delicate act of
I think there is a lot more we can do to be collaborative, to not just use it as a starting point for creative ideas or for one off events, but as a structure within the business. The sense of community in hospitality is wonderful and continues to grow, so I have no doubt that the traitorous ideas around collaboration can, and will fade. I look forward to seeing what is possible to achieve, especially in this time of unexpected events, political and economic uncertainty. Exciting, innovative initiatives and ways of working are the only option we have - and so far, this industry has shown that it is more than capable of greatness and community – here’s looking at you, 2017.
“It is clear that collaborative work ethics are ingrained in hospitality’s DNA...”
It is common to forget how much you already know. The routine of working hides the real ingenuity of some of your own ideas. Sharing your ideas and ways of working with others is a good reminder of that. Being part
connecting people and ideas, of sharing knowledge, of being generous of spirit, and developing individual identities to be part of a greater one. In the words of James Ramsden, “ultimately, this town is big enough for us all, and we are all working towards the same goal – to give people a lovely time. Let’s create an environment and the support to do that.”
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Anna Sulan Masing @AnnaSulan
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
act of finding her own individualism. Through working with others she is able to understand how her work is different to theirs, and therefore where she sits within the performance and theatre community.
Free is the magic number Callum Edge delves into the controversial debate over PR freebies.
I
n February 2016, Chris Schonberger and Justin Bolois published an article on First We Feast entitled “The Problems With Food Media That Nobody Wants to Talk About”. The premise: food media had “gone soft” (in America, at least) and was holding the restaurant industry back. Journalists have “got to be willing to air out [their] dirty laundry first”, the authors concluded, before any real progress can be made. Schonberger and Bolois’s main concerns were thus: 1. Food writers are too scared of losing access to be critical; 2. The food world is too hungry to tear down its idols, but only when safe; 3. The gatekeepers are too homogenous;
4. The most important conversations don’t take place in food magazines; 5. Readers can’t trust lists anymore;
purposes. Once I’d been in and out of a few places, written 500 or so words on each – and usually trying to ape one or other of the broadsheet critics – I soon found an “invite to review” in my inbox. It’s standard practice in the world of PR: “reach out” to someone who won’t be able to resist and reap the rewards of publicity.
For me, this arrangement, for a time, worked: I went, I ate, I wrote, always fessing up that my experience had been complimentary, but feeling that I had told my story honestly. I still paid my own dollar here and there at the places I truly wanted to go to, but became frustrated that, at such meals, I had more about which to be critical.
“If we are to trust and respect any food writer, there must surely be independence between them and the topics they write about.”
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6. PR has too much influence; and 7. Pre-reviews obscure the line between hype and criticism. Yes, yes – same story on this side of the pond, we said. We tweeted, we liked and we shared, and we nodded emphatically. But nothing changed. I began blogging about restaurants in 2010 (cue Bloggers Anonymous), more as an excuse to keep eating out, to be honest, than specifically for writing
Indeed, to that young and penniless student there was considerable draw to attending press nights and accepting hospitality. To hobnob (i.e. stand to the side of a room with a drink and – as one always hopes – a plus one) with industry folk and writers I looked up to felt like I’d got somewhere. I had snuck into the green room and no one seemed to notice.
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In hindsight, this shouldn’t have been surprising: there was no champagne reception; stops were not pulled-out; bills were paid in full. And then I went to a press meal that was, in no uncertain terms, awful. Very naively, I wrote about it as such. Within hours, I had been contacted by the PR with a note to enquire what I was doing. This was not how things worked; their trust had been broken. So
I stopped accepting invitations. Others have been similarly confessional. In September this year, Nicky Richmond (of thefoodjudge.com) wrote that such events “annoy me because they are misleading.” Instagram is full of the same food and very few people mention that they are at an event. Less tell you they haven’t paid. It’s easy to blame the blogging community. Yet, much of the same is practised by ‘professionals’ – also, who seem, unable to resist. It is really only the national critics (Rayner, O’Loughlin, Coren et al) who are expected to remain at a distance with their subjects. Many paid writers willingly update their social media accounts with images of, say, dishes heaving under complimentary truffle shavings one evening, whilst publishing a glowing trend piece about truffles days later.
The crux of the matter is whether objectivity can be maintained in the face of comped food and drink. True objectivity is fiction, of course, but if one accepts freebies from a restaurant in a capacity of influence and remains opaque about it, then one can no longer claim to be a neutral party. You can yell all you like about claiming to be impartial, however enough has been proved scientifically to suggest that you will feel more disposed to having a positive overall experience if it’s on the house than if you paid. After all, nothing is given without the expectation of return. This is, as Schonberger and Bolois suggest, doing nothing to progress either food journalism or the industry itself. Journalists are so tied to the trough that they cannot afford to speak their minds. Nor, in most cases, do they have a budget to afford detachment. News coverage is little based on merit, but cash and connections instead. Those without access to a healthy PR budget are parked to the rear. Exclusive stories are bartered as tit-for-tat.
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The issue is a little like getting stuck in an M.C. Escher illustration, where walls turn to staircases and water flows upward. The industry, with good intent – much like Jack Nicholson’s character in “A Few Good Men” defending the actions of his marines taking justice into their own hands – feels that Joe Public “can’t handle the truth”. So whilst we nod emphatically, all we really do is keep schtum. Everything else just is PR.
Callum Edge @edgeandspoon Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
George Reynolds (egoscriptor.space), incidentally this year’s winner of the Young British Foodies “Fresh Voices in Food Writing” award, also touched on this issue in a review of Pidgin. He acknowledged many of the industry’s misgivings around disclosure (“a total fucking mess”) and, indeed, considered whether he liked the restaurant because he liked the owner or because it was objectively worth liking. However, for Reynolds, “insisting on total ethical transparency among well-known food writers betokens a weird, patronising attitude towards readers, [and implies]
they haven’t bothered to develop a critical faculty of their own”. But how well known do you need to be to stop disclosing? If we are to trust and respect any food writer, there must surely be independence between them and the topics they write about.
Eat. Drink. Design. W
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
ith Christmas fast approaching and another year coming to a close it’s the perfect opportunity to take a look at everyone’s favourite festive spot - the pub. The pub has always had a warm place in my heart since the days of spending hot summer evenings running around beer gardens drinking cheap syrupy cola in the pubs of Herefordshire. And whilst they are closing in their thousands across the country, London has a wonderful selection of pubs for you to sample at Christmas. Just like the best restaurants, there’s some brilliant (and not so brilliant) design to explore.
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As a pub shareholder myself, I’ve had first hand experience of the impact good design can have on a pub. Not just the menu or logo, but how it communicates, how it builds character. Making sure a certain standard is retained is not so straightforward. It’s easy to let the menus or signage get tatty - those small details at the opening soon become a nuisance and can easily be forgotten. I spoke with the owners behind three of London’s booming pubs, each different in their own ways, but each understanding the importance of good design.
The Culpeper, Spitalfields Bash Redford
T
he Culpeper is a true testament to the power of creative collaboration. Combining chefs, designers, photographers and architects along the entire process often leads to most imaginative work. As any visit will highlight you really feel welcomed into the pub. It’s a space you want to visit again and again. I spoke with Bash Redford, one third of the team behind the pub. The Culpeper has done an excellent job in creating a well-rounded visual identity. What was your inspiration behind the revamp? Thank you! I’ll try to tell you this without everyone’s life story as well as that of The Culpeper, but it might be tough there are a lot of great minds involved. The initial vision, really, was that of a chap called Nico Treguer - and it all centered around a rooftop. Nico had been negotiating with great difficulty on a site in King’s Cross that he wanted to turn into a rooftop growing space/ cafe / events space. After a long old journey of getting to this stage and partnering up with another chap called Gareth Roberts, they settled on a pub with a great rooftop instead, meaning they had full control of the whole building. That was the Princess Alice. Then came Forza Win on the rooftop and by the end of summer 2013 they had plans to take the building from what it was then (a fairly dingy boozer) to what it is now. After a successful summer on the roof there with Forza Win, they asked me to be involved. My main role within that was to take the ideas that they had, and translate that into both a visual identity and a brand, as well as bring the network that I had from an involvement in the industry. The inspiration behind the whole thing is a heady mix of Nico’s fascination with a map that Monocle published years ago called ’The Perfect City Block’, Gareth’s unwavering obsession with breathing life into old buildings, and my love for and knowledge of food. Gareth, being an architect, wanted to be mindful of the beauty of the building but give it a new purpose and lease of life and I, running a restaurant that appeared only on rooftops, was in my element.
On the actual visual identity and branding we worked with an amazing guy called Archie Mcleish (he’s one of my best pals and partner on Forza Win). On photography we worked with (my then housemate) Daniel Morgan - an incredible chap with so, so much talent. The website was put together by a chap called Ben Da Silva - also a phenomenal force, and someone I’d worked with a lot in the past. In a way, each individual’s skill set formed an agency of sorts, but a makeshift, slightly DIY one, that really, really worked. The interior of the space is particularly beautiful with each floor given a great attention to detail. Did you work with interior designers and architects closely for this project? How was it? This is, I think, one of the main reasons that we managed to achieve what we did. Gareth is an architect. With a string of achievements under his belt at his previous firm, it was a really amazing thing to witness what happens when an architect gets to be a part of the continued life of a building that they have designed. He designed the whole space, was responsible for all the planning and that entire process, then his great friend Mada Vicassau lead the charge on the interior side of things. There was a large element of it being a team effort though - we all discussed all details at great lengths, went to find sinks in scrapyards and put forward ideas that we were all passionate about for different reasons.
Did you work with an agency or individual? Was it something you were heavily involved in? -43-
There’s a fine line between a cosy boozer and a place that feels too contrived - how did you make sure you struck the right balance? That’s a really difficult question to answer, but ostensibly I’d say it was down to paying the building the respect it deserved. The majority of the downstairs ‘fit out’ was less fit out, more an exercise in revealing and reinstating. For example, things like the floor - that was already there but needed re-sanding, polishing, and a whole lot of other love. The ceilings had been lowered in the 70’s (or around the times when pubs were meant to feel low and dark and brass) so we ripped them out and went back to the original, simple ones with a lick of paint - the panelling was stripped and bricks/ layers of plaster revealed and treated. The bar was originally in the U-shape, we just put it back that way. The light well that now runs through the whole building and brings light and life to the space was originally there too, but had also been a dumbwaiter shaft - we gave that a new lease of life. Throughout this process there was a constant conversation about what types of fixtures and fittings would be used, an awareness of what ‘trends’ were plaguing the industry at the time (exposed brickwork, filament bulbs, bla, bla, etc) and a consideration for how we could create something more timeless that felt, at the same time, quite luxurious, solid and relevant.
and atmosphere, so when Martino said he didn’t just want to do the tables but wanted to do the whole room, it sort of fell into place. There are lots of unconventional attributes to the identity design, from the logo typography to the floor patterns, did you always want to do something different? It’s really a tale of three design heads, A Practice for Everyday Life (APFEL) who did the graphic identity, Martino Gamper who did the interior design of upstairs, and us. We decided how to fit out the downstairs, what to get rid of, to keep and what to add. Tom’s wife Miria is a garden and floristry designer so she had a lot to say about vases and the series of stoneware jugs that she fills each week with flowers from Columbia Road. The wooden HMS Victory ship was our gift to the pub on moving in. APFEL designed our graphic identity, taking a lead from the funny made-up typography on the DIY light boxes behind the bar that simply say Marksman - who knows who put those in? And Martino designed everything upstairs from the brightly surfaced staircase that surprises you and irresistibly leads you upstairs, to the beautiful cloth ceiling made by the London Cloth Company that serves the purpose of creating an acoustically soft environment - the antithesis to the vibrant colourful bustle of downstairs - where conversation is easy. You worked with highly respected design agency ‘A practice for Everyday life’ on the project. How was it and what role do you feel design plays within the pub/dining experience?
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he Marksman is another pub – that was awarded Michelin Pub of the Year 2017 - that took an equally well-considered approach to design. But as Tom Harris and Jon Rotheram will testify it’s not just about restoring a pub to former glories, it’s about the new story and character your tenure can tell. It’s certainly something you notice.
be an authentic British pub, there are not many of the original Victorian features left - a lone column from the original facade that we uncovered and the cupola, are about it. Everything else tells a story of the different people that have owned it, the faux mahogany panelling (which is actually stained plywood) that was probably put in during the 50s to mask rising damp, the modernisation reputedly done by the Krays’ uncle in the 70s and the introduction of a downstairs kitchen and living quarters above undertaken by the previous owners. We wanted the redesign to tell a story of our tenure.
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
It feels like you tried to retain as much of the original character as possible, was this the plan from the very start?
Can you tell us about the visual inspiration behind the Marksman? We were very much led by the aesthetics of the pub. Although it feels and seems to
Our locals who have been drinking at the Marksman for decades tell different stories of who did what and when, and we wanted to contribute to the mythology of the place by keeping the best of what makes it special, while adding some new personality for a new era. We started talking to Hackney-based Italian designer Martino Gamper, because we loved his ‘off-cut’ wooden tables. The idea of making something new out of something old really appealed to us. The Marksman is a bit of a mongrel design-wise and with the design of the upstairs restaurant it felt good to be bold, to not do a pastiche of the downstairs, but to give it its own identity -44-
Design is incredibly important. APFEL tested our ideas about branding and made us question the difference between the brand Marksman - which is everything we do from the food to the drinks we serve - and the name of a pub the Marksman, which we believe should (like a boat) never be changed because it has its own history. The Marksman is so named after the French Marksman who shot and mortally wounded Lord Nelson - all the streets around the pub are connected with the battle of Trafalgar, Shipton Street, Horatio Street etc. The pub is supposedly named the Marksman because the distance between us and the pub at the end of the street - that used to be called the Nelson’s Head - is the exact distance it takes to fire a shot from a long gun. New design is important but so is history.
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ver in Mayfair, I sat down with Dom Jacobs, one of the co-owners of the Running Horse. I’ve worked closely with Jacobs, not only on this project but on several other restaurant identities through the years. He’s always been someone who understands the benefits of good design. We discussed the process and experience of working with a designer, and on reviving Mayfair’s oldest public house. Was design something you always thought about when looking to purchase a pub? It was essential to me to have the full package for The Running Horse. What we sent out had to be current. Pubs are so often full of compromise; you might get a great cask ale but the food and wine are not so great. Or they might do nice craft beers, but the coffee isn’t up to scratch. For me, a public house is, by its very name, something for everyone to enjoy - fully inclusive. So I didn’t want this pub to be let down by sub-par branding and design, which would undermine all of the efforts elsewhere. Design helps bind all of this together. It is like the glue that brings all of the elements of your business together into an approachable brand. The Running Horse itself has a lot of character, something we were keen to incorporate across the identity. Did you have an idea of what you wanted it to look like from the start?
it, but a few brand pillars help this stay consistent. If you could give one piece of advice for a pub owner looking to work with a designer or agency what would it be?
I was open to ideas although it was always clear that we needed the pub to be true to its heritage whilst ensuring we brought it in line with current successful hospitality branding.
Pubs have so much history, and a good designer can take this and develop it into a brand. Consistency across your marketing and design is essential and it follows everything you do.
It’s a hugely competitive industry so you need messages to be considered and clear, something which good design helps with. Obviously ideas change, but to compete in central London you have to be on top of everything, which is why I wanted professional help. Being an independent pub was something I really wanted to come across and design is very helpful to enforce this message. It takes time to nail
With social media and email marketing being so important in operating a successful business, you need consistency in your message otherwise your online presence gets blurred. Pubs often have a big footprint online from previous owners as they tend to keep the same names. You need to work hard to make sure what is online represents your brand and values. Pubs should be welcoming
so I think humour is always important, a pub should never take itself too seriously as they should always be welcoming and we always try to get that across in our marketing. With large numbers of pubs closing across the UK do you think design can play a role helping the industry survive? I think overall absolutely. Whilst I am a great advocate for the British pub and I believe its role in society is still essential today. I’m also clear that a lot of pubs close because they are just not very good. Whilst this is certainly not always the case, ultimately it is business and you will always have to compete with everyone else who is trying to make a living. With restaurants and bar chains opening left right and centre, you will always face pressure. A lot of them succeed because frankly, they are better - but then you have to up your game and that comes right down to the marketing and online profile. You don’t need to spend a fortune to have it. If you are clever then a one-off branding exercise can give you templates to operate off for years. It makes your message clear and competitive. It is sad that publicans suffer continually under pressures but you just have to ensure you maintain a good product and good service and there is always a place for you.
James Wood is the founder of design studio, JAW. designedbyjaw.co.uk -45-
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
James Wood @designedbyjaw
Magical Mallorca
In association with Bon Vivant Travel
Forget the ‘Brits Abroad’ image that has been portrayed for decades – move away from Magaluf and you’ll discover a beautiful island full of history, world class hotels and a rejuvenated restaurant scene. CODE recently visited Mallorca to report on its hotel scene – here’s our pick of the best.
Hotel Sant Francesc The place to stay in the middle of Palma is Hotel Sant Francesc. The stunning building is full of character and charm located a short walk from the city’s restaurants, bars and shops. A traditional structure with a contemporary design and feel, rooms are effortlessly chic with a soft, muted colour scheme of cream and grey. A visit to the rooftop bar is a must when visiting Palma – enjoy a sundowner cocktail with views of Palma’s rooftops or even take a dip in the splash pool. hotelsantfrancesc.com
Belmond La Residencia
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
Located in the picturesque village of Deià, this converted sixteenth and seventeenth-century manor house, which looks like a village itself with its stone pathways, is one of the most exclusive hotels in Mallorca. Rooms are full of character with Mallorcan antiques sitting alongside pieces of modern art from local artists. The hotel exhibits works of art in the onsite gallery and has a revolving series of in-house local artists. At every turn you have gorgeous views of the surrounding mountains and olive groves, but for a truly romantic experience, dine under the olive trees at the El Olivio restaurant. belmond.com/la-residencia-mallorca
Park Hyatt Mallorca The Park Hyatt Mallorca is the group’s first resort in Europe, located on the East of the island. Designed to resemble a Mallorcan village, it includes a central village square that leads to the various pools, restaurants and bars. The Balearic restaurant and Tapas Bar offer a menu of local flavours headed up by Basque Michelin-starred chef David Garcia, while pan-Asian cuisine is offered at Asia. Rooms are chic and understated in light colours with dark grey accents with beautiful views over the surrounding Canyamel valley. mallorca.park.hyatt.com
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Image credit: SeeMallorca.com
Ca’s Xorc Occupying a stone-walled former mill built in 1790 and located near Soller, Ca’s Xorc is a boutique hotel and restaurant that could only be described as rustic-chic.
Image credit: Jumeirah Group
The hotel’s setting is gorgeous – from the views of the surrounding landscape and the sea in the distance to the stunning gardens with orange and lemon trees, Ca’s Xorc feels like it’s a secret hideaway. There are twelve bedrooms decorated with white-washed walls and rustic furnishings, oozing with character from every direction. Even if you don’t stay here, be sure to visit the restaurant and revel in the charm of the setting. casxorc.com
The Jumeirah Port Soller
Emyr Thomas @BonVivantLiving Emyr Thomas is the founder of Bon Vivant, a luxury travel and concierge service based in London with global coverage. Book through Bon Vivant for access to free upgrades, breakfast and restaurant and spa credits.
Rooms are simply designed with comfort in mind, but be sure to book a room with a sea view. jumeirah.com
bonvivant.co.uk
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Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
Perched on a cliff overlooking the fishing village of Port Soller, the Jumeirah hotel offers genuinely breathtaking panoramic views of the Mediterranean. Spread over a number of buildings connected by gardens, a favourite part is the infinity pool where you could sit for hours with a G&T.
Instagram spotlight
Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
In this feature we shine a light on our favourite Instagram accounts. Follow @sarkababicka for an insight into where she dines.
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24 hours in Dublin When it comes to hospitality, Ireland has some of the best to offer whether it’s a cosy pub for a pint of the black stuff, fresh seafood or Ireland’s only two Michelin-starred restaurant. We’ve rounded up some of the best that the city has to offer ahead of The CODE app launching there in the New Year.
11am
Network The latest edition to Aungier Street, Network has been a popular hit with those looking for a decent cup of coffee in a relaxed and minimalist environment. Beans come from CARAVAN and 3fe, whilst the sweet treat offering is enough to rival any other. Pastries from
Bakelicious will leave you feeling ready to seize the day.
Grogans You can’t visit Dublin without a pint of Guinness in a proper Irish pub, and we think we might have found the perfect place. Tommy Smith has been the pubs proprietor since 1973, keeping Irish tradition in mind you won’t find a TV showing the football here. Emphasis is on catching up or reading the paper in a cosy armchair. Not only are you guaranteed to feel at the heart of Dublin’s community, you will not be disappointed by their Irish cheddar toasties to accompany your pint of the black stuff.
Coppinger Row If gin is more your tipple of choice, brothers Marc and Conor Bereen have a selection to rival any other. Amongst other global brands, there are some Irish gems. The Gunpowder Irish Gin with ruby grapefruit and star anise has our vote.
The Liquor Rooms Lead by Fergus O’Leary and his team of creative cocktail shakers, this cosy subterranean bar has won multiple awards. It’s not hard to see why, this bar will round off your day with ease. The 28 page cocktail list will please even the most cultured of imbibers.
1pm
Super Miss Sue Located in the heart of Dublin city centre, Super Miss Sue is a convenient lunchtime pit stop in between site seeing. For hard to beat value, opt for the plate of the day and a glass of wine for €15. Owner, John Farrell has
created a pop-up style venue with Cervi, Super Miss Sue and Luna all under one roof. If it’s a quick lunch you are after they claim to have Dublin’s best fish and chips.
3pm 4pm
5pm 7pm 8pm 10pm
Asador In Spanish, the word ‘asador’ means to grill or roast and that’s the basic essence of this restaurant just off Baggot Street. With an emphasis on using Irish produce you can expect barbecued fish or meat by chefs who have spent time in Spain and Portugal perfecting the art of delivering exquisite food. The pre-concert menu is a steal at €29.50.
Featherblade Featherblade is a joint venture by Paul McVeigh and Jamie O’Toole, with the former in the kitchen as head chef and the latter at front of house. Specialising in Featherblade steaks, a cut that comes from the shoulder blade and sides of beef dripping chips and truffle mac n’cheese, you are guaranteed to leave feeling satisfied.
Merrion Hotel A member of The Leading Hotels of the World, the Merrion Hotel is the capital’s most luxurious five-star hotel. The impressive building is the restoration of four 18th century Georgian townhouses with 123 rooms and 19 suites. The hotel is
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also home to Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Irelands only two-star Michelin restaurant.
Last orders This Quarterly’s post-shift recipe is from Kurobuta’s Scott Hallsworth. Here he serves up crunchy chicken karaage lettuce wraps with pickled cucumber and spicy mayo.
Chicken karaage lettuce wraps with pickled cucumber and spicy mayo.
Ingredients (3 wraps)
Method
1 chicken thigh
Prepare the marinade for the chicken: curry powder, grated ginger, pureed garlic, potato starch, black pepper, salt, caster sugar, plain flour, sake and water.
3 cups of iceberg lettuce Mayonnaise Chilli paste
Add the chicken to the marinade. Put in the fridge and leave for an hour.
1 lemon Marinade: Curry powder – 1 tbsp; Sake – 2 tbsp; grated ginger – 1 tbsp; pureed garlic – 1 tbsp; black pepper 1 tsp; salt – 1 tsp; caster sugar – 1 tsp; potato starch – 1 tbsp; plain flour - 1 tbsp; water – 4 or 5 tbsp; sugar - 1tsp
For the amazu marinade add the rice vinegar, salt and sugar and stir. Add the chopped cucumber, sliced red onion and chilli. Leave in the fridge for an hour.
Rice vinegar – 60ml
Take the chicken out of the fridge and cook for 4 minutes in rapeseed oil heated to 180 degrees. Set the cucumber pickle on cups of iceberg lettuce. Add the chicken and drizzle spicy mayo over. Add lemon and sprinkle with white and black sesame seeds and chopped chives.
Salt ½ a cucumber 1 small chilli ¼ small red onion
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The CODE app directory LONDON 100 Wardour St 108 Brasserie 28°-50° Maddox Street 28°-50° Marylebone Lane 45 Jermyn St. 46 & Mercy All Star Lanes Bayswater All Star Lanes Brick Lane All Star Lanes Holborn Ametsa with Arzak Instruction Antidote Aqua Kyoto Aqua Nueva Bar Boulud Beagle Beagle Bar Bernardi’s BungaTINI Cafe Monico Cafe Murano Covent Garden Cafe Murano St. James’s Ceviche Old St CHICKENliquor Chicken Shop Whitechapel Chicken Shop Kentish Town Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels Coya Crosstown Doughnuts Soho Crosstown Doughnuts Shoreditch Crumbs & Doilies Damson & Co Dehesa Demon Wise & Partners Dirty Bones Shoreditch Dirty Bones Soho Dirty Burger Shoreditch Dirty Burger Kentish Town Ducksoup El Camion Ember Yard EuroCave UK Foxlow Balham Foxlow Chiswick Foxlow Clerkenwell Foxlow Stoke Newington Frontier Room Granger & Co. Clerkenwell Hawksmoor Air Street Hawksmoor Guildhall Hawksmoor Knightsbridge Hawksmoor Seven Dials Hawksmoor Spitalfields Hawksmoor Spitalfields Bar
Hélène Darroze at The Connaught HIX Oyster & Chop House HIX Soho Hixter Bankside Holborn Dining Room Homeslice Old Street Homeslice Wells Street Hutong at The Shard Bar Ibérica Farringdon Ibérica Marylebone Il Baretto Jar Kitchen Jikoni Joe’s Southern Table and Bar Covent Garden José Pizarro Joyeux Bordel Koya Bar Kurobuta Marble Arch LeCoq Les 110 de Taillevent London Little Pitt Lobos Meat & Tapas London Cocktail Club Bethnal Green London Cocktail Club Islington London Cocktail Club Shaftesbury Avenue London Cocktail Club Shoreditch Lucky Voice Soho Lyle’s Marcus Market Mark’s Bar at HIX Soho Mark’s Bar at The Old Vic Mason & Company maze MEATliquor N1 MEATliquor W1 MEATmarket MEATmission Megaro Bar Merchants Tavern Oklava Opera Tavern Oriole Outlaw’s at The Capital Passione Vino Paradise Garage Percy & Founders Petersham Nurseries Café Petit Pois Bistro Picture Marylebone
Picture Fitzrovia Pidgin Pitt Cue Pizarro Pizza East Kentish Town Pizza Pilgrims Covent Garden Pizza Pilgrims Dean St Pizza Pilgrims Exmouth Market Pizza Pilgrims Kingly St Poco Broadway Market POLPO at Ape & Bird POLPO Notting Hill Q Grill Camden Radio Rooftop Rawduck Rivington Grill ROKA Aldwych Rotorino SAGER + WILDE Salt Yard Searcys, One New Change Shotgun Shotgun Bar Shuang Shuang Spring Spuntino St Pancras Champagne Bar St. JOHN St. JOHN Bread & Wine St. JOHN Maltby STK London Talli Joe Tapas Brindisa Soho Tapas Brindisa Shoreditch The Club Chinois bar at Park Chinois The Drapers Arms The Gilbert Scott The Grill at The Dorchester The Hide Bar The Modern Pantry Finsbury Square The Quality Chop House Tonic & Remedy Trailer Happiness Tramshed Tredwell’s Typing Room Union Street Bar Union Street Café Veneta Vintage Salt Upper Street Wright Brothers Soho Wright Brothers Spitalfields Wringer & Mangle
The CODE app is available to anyone working in hospitality. Simply prove your employment in the industry* and enjoy unlimited access to exclusive dining offers for £11.99 a year. * Restaurant, bar, cafe, hotel, private members’ club, catering contractor, street food vendor, commercial airlines and F&B leisure outlet. -51-
Zelman Meats Zoilo NORTH All Star Lanes Almost Famous GN Almost Famous Leeds Almost Famous Liverpool Almost Famous NQ Asha’s Black Dog Ballroom NQ Black Dog Ballroom NWS Bollibar @ Asha’s Bundobust Burnt Truffle Busaba Liverpool Busaba Manchester Cane & Grain Chapter House Crazy Pedro’s Part-Time Pizza Parlour Dog Bowl Electrik Electrik Bar Evelyn’s Gaucho Leeds Gaucho Manchester Hawksmoor Manchester Home Sweet Home GN Ibérica Manchester Keko Moku Maray MEATliquor Leeds Mughli Knutsford Mughli Rusholme Railway Kitchen & Bar Sticky Walnut Tampopo Albert Square Tampopo Corn Exchange Tampopo Trafford Centre The Alchemist Greek Street The Alchemist NY St The Comedy Store Manchester The Liars Club The Refectory TNQ Restaurant Volta Volta Bar SOUTH Curry Leaf Café Fourth & Church Indian Summer
La Choza Isaac At Market Restaurant & Bar MEATliquor Brighton Moshimo POLPO Brighton Riddle & Finns, The Beach Riddle & Finns, The Lanes SILO Terre à Terre The Chilli Pickle The Coal Shed The Salt Room The Set WEST Bakers & Co Bravas Hyde & Co MEATliquor Bristol Noche Negra Pata Negra Poco Tapas Bar POLPO Bristol Psychopomp Micro-Distillery Sticks & Broth The Ethicurean The Milk Thistle The Ox Bristol The Ox Cheltenham The Ox Clifton SCOTLAND Smith & Gertrude Seasons The Refinery The Stockbridge Wedgwood The Restaurant IRELAND LAUNCHING IN 2017
All venues correct at the time of going to print.
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