Issue 16 Autumn 2018
Quarterly
The eyes & ears of the hospitality industry Happiness in Hospitality survey results Angela Hartnett • Cider • Chefs on wheels
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Contents 5.
Staff briefing
6.
In season: shopping pages
8.
CODE breaking: restaurant news
11.
Happiness in Hospitality report
20.
Angela Hartnett on 10 years of Murano
22.
Town Hall meeting report
24.
In conversation with... Ben Chapman
27.
Nick Gibson on the pub renaissance
30.
The story behind chefs’ favourite eggs
32.
What’s fuelling CODE this season
36.
Me and my mode of transport
42.
Tools of the trade: Shaun Searley
44.
Head to head: hi-tech versus wooden spoons
48.
Felix Nash on the rise of good cider
51.
The drinks report
52.
The latest food books reviewed
55.
A classic revisited
56.
24 hours in... Oaxaca
58.
Travel: sun, sand and an impossibly blue sea
61.
What’s hot on social media
62.
Staff meal: what they have for supper at Hoppers
Publisher Adam Hyman Editor Lisa Markwell Creative Director Alexander Taralezhkov
Contributors Max Coltart Nick Gibson Karan Gokani Loyd Grossman Chloë Hamilton Ophelia Keane James Knappett Shin-Hye Lee Anna Sulan Masing Felix Nash Russell Norman David Paw Tom Pilgrim Harriet Raper Joe Sarah Slav Vitanov Kate Woodcock
Head office CODE Hospitality 6th Floor Greener House 66-68 Haymarket London SW1Y 4RF Tel: +44 20 7104 2007 contact@codehospitality.co.uk @CODEhospitality @codehospitality CODE Quarterly (online) ISSN 2398-9726
Front cover illustrated by Rozalina Burkova Printed on recycled paper by DataComuniqué
New destinations on the app include:
DIRECTORY
The Principal London The latest addition to the Bloomsbury set Brigadiers The bar and restaurant complex inspired by the army mess bars of India Bibendum E-learning with premium wine specialists Convenience Store New corner shop bar in Manchester’s Northern Quarter
For full list of participating restaurants and bars, see page 63 -3-
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
THE CODE APP
Elystan Street Phil Howard’s Michelin-starred Chelsea restaurant
6am since 2010
What does it take to keep it fresh day in, day out?
Staff briefing What’s hot. Happiness. This is the overriding theme for our autumn issue. It’s no secret that happy employees result in a better workplace, increased productivity and more satisfied customers. It’s often so easy to overlook the qualitative sides of caring for employees during the frenetic day-to-day running of hospitality businesses, especially for small, owner-operated independents that don’t have the resources of back-office and HR teams. The recent social media racism incident is a stark reminder of this and we’ve covered the debate following our town hall meeting. How do you get cheerful employees? I hope we’ve gone some way to answer this in our first Happiness in Hospitality report. We have crunched the numbers of the 500-plus respondents of 48 nationalities – and the results are featured in this issue with a strong focus on mental health and wellbeing, as well as aspects like workplace benefits and interesting details like providing proper staff changing rooms instead of squeezing in an extra few covers! We’ve also had a bit of fun with our first CODE Awards, voted for by the industry. In the next issue we will publish the annual CODE 30 under 30, our celebration of rising stars in the world of hospitality. If you would like to nominate someone, please email editor@codehospitality.co.uk Wishing you a happy autumn. Adam Hyman Founder, CODE @AdamMHyman
The Americano More refreshing and less of a smack to the chops than a Negroni
Katsu sandwich As seen at Tātā Eatery, Bright and the Monocle Café
Board games in restaurants Bring your A-game to Xu in Soho and Draughts in Hackney
Turning 10 The Modern Pantry and the Connaught Bar join Murano in celebrating a decade in the business this year
What’s not.
Lisa Markwell Editor, CODE @HoldsKnifeLikePen
Website menus with no prices Why?
Dress code How very ‘90s. Anything goes these days
Being told to reuse plates and crockery during a meal Is there a widespread Fairy Liquid shortage? If not, there’s no excuse – we’re not camping
Cutlery from a communal pot Grimmage
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Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
One of the best parts of my job is listening to people who are really passionate about their work – it never fails to inspire me. Whether it’s Shaun Searley talking about his love of butchery, or hearing Ben Chapman’s enthusiasm for the farmers who supply his restaurants, the last few weeks have been full immersion into what goes into making some of our best restaurants so great. You’ll find them both in this issue – and on the other side of the equation, we’ve talked to Clarence Court about their eggs, and The Fine Cider Company about why this very British product is the equal of any wine... Another assignment that gave me great pleasure was talking to some of our busiest business owners about how they travel between restaurants. As someone who has two jobs myself, it’s often a scramble to be in the right place at the right time. Wish someone would hurry up and invent flying cars... On a more serious note, there’s a detailed report on the ‘town hall’ meeting that CODE hosted recently to discuss racism and abuse in our industry. It showed that this is a subject that we mustn’t ignore or brush under the carpet, and it’s one to which we will return. As always, please let me know what subjects you’d like to read in future issues of CODE Quarterly, and any other feedback, at lisa@codehospitality.co.uk
In season The weather changes and so do our appetites, so what better time to try some new taste sensations? And since we’re in the mood to shop, here are a few cool accessories too...
Spice up your life
Pure genius
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
Clever Rachel Walker has created a range of blended and single spices that are impeccably sourced and groovily packaged. There’s everything from individual tins (almost pocket-sized for addicts) to box sets. From £2.40, rootedspices.com
They’ve done it again, those folk at Seedlip. Grove 42 is their latest nonalcoholic spirit and its potent citrus tang – with the emphasis on orange – is a most delicious drink, mixed into a Nogroni or with soda. £27.99, seedlipdrinks.com
AUTUMN
2018 -6-
On the boil
It’s a rare adult that will say they’ve never had a Pot Noodle, but mercifully there’s now a scorchingly delicious, healthy alternative, thanks to Zoe Adjonyoh of Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen. She’s lent her expertise to Unilever for Red Red Stews, three different veggie pots that are quick and tasty. Funky packaging too. £2.99, From Ocado, Amazon, Sainsburys and Whole Foods
Grain storm
Using freshly milled rice makes all the difference in Asian cooking, and this Akitakomachi white rice is milled to order, so it turns out soft and with just the right amount of bite. £8.25 for 1.5kg, japancentre.com
Tote cuisine
Risdon & Risdon (and Risdon, if you count the third member of the family involved in the business) make robust, stylish aprons that have been seen on many a chef, whether it’s denim, canvas or full leather. Now the same look and feel has been applied to sturdy bags, and we love them. £65, risdonandrisdon.com
Conta
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Go the extra mile
Magn us Nil
sson The N Bakin ordic g Boo k
sson
THE NOR D BAK IC ING BOO K Knead to know
If you like to wax lyrical about seeds, or are forever cursing your children for leaving Lego on the floor, this is the book for you. Researched, written and photographed by Magnus Nilsson himself, The Nordic Baking Book is a witty homage to all things baking, no matter your definition. For the brave (or foolhardy) comes a challenge ‘dare to make the recipes your own and not just follow instructions’. £29.95, Phaidon
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Dining shroom
Gadgets to crush garlic come and go, but this is by far the most stylish (and efficient). The Magic Mushroom Garlic Smasher is made in Tuscany of carrara marble, and is available from the brilliantly eclectic website by fashion consultant Kim Sion, who has an eye for cool stuff. £65, abagfullofkim.com
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
100 Acres is the range created by Georgina Pearman, who is an ace interior designer and, with husband Sam, a seasoned hotelier. The hand washes, bath oils, candles and much more are beautifully scented with botanicals and made without harmful chemicals – a lovely change from those brown bottles. £20, 100acres.co.uk
Magn us Nil
CODE breaking
London
Hicce x Wolf & Badger
Hicce takes its name from the Latin word for ‘of the moment’ and Pip Lacey’s first standalone restaurant is certainly current. Hicce (H-ee-che) is the product of the former Murano head chef ’s longstanding friendship with Gordy Mcintyre (formerly of Green King and D&D) and together, with him running front of house, will bring British dishes - with a Japanese/Norwegian twist - to central London. Based at the Heatherwick Studio-designed Coal Drops Yard in King’s Cross, Hicce has received backing from Pip’s friend and mentor - Angela Hartnett.
Two Lights
The eyes and ears of the industry
The team behind Michelin-starred The Clove Club and Luca are about to open their third restaurant in London – in Shoreditch, of course. Two lights will be headed by The Clove Club’s former head chef Chase Lovecky, whose menu is inspired by modern American cuisine, with a nod towards Lovecky’s hometown of Maine. This is the first solo debut for the former Momofuku Ko and Jean Georges alumnus, and is certainly one of the most anticipated openings of the year.
Alain Ducasse Chocolat
Chocolate lovers rejoice: a culinary master is bringing his signature chocolate brand, Le Chocolat, to London’s King’s Cross. Following his success in Tokyo and Paris, Michelin’s second-most-decorated chef Alain Ducasse will open his first chocolate shop in the UK at Coal Drops Yard. The flavoured ganaches, pralines and truffles will continue to be handcrafted by his trusted artisan chocolatier Nicolas Berger at their Paris workshop, but from October you can save yourself the Eurostar ticket to purchase them.
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
Berenjak
Backed by the solidly successful JKS Restaurants, Kian Samyani is bringing a taste of Tehran to Romilly Street in Soho this October. Berenjak is named after the brightly coloured, toasted rice eaten at funfairs in Iran, and aims to evoke the style of a rustic Persian kebab house. Samyani (formerly of Brigadiers and Gymkhana) will serve dishes using traditional cooking methods, inspired by his childhood, but with a seasonal British twist.
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Rest of the UK
In addition to our weekly digital Bulletin, here we round up this quarter’s biggest news in the global restaurant and hotel scene. By Tom Pilgrim
Iwan and Manuela Wirth, the duo behind international art gallery Hauser & Wirth, are bringing their exacting aesthetic to Scotland. They are restoring a former 19th century hunting lodge to open as a 46-room boutique hotel in November. The Fife Arms, in Braemar, will showcase commissioned artworks, and a collection of work celebrating the history of the building. Featuring a restaurant serving locally sourced produce and heather-roof courtyard, it is no wonder Condé Nast have touted this project as one of the hottest hotel openings of 2018.
Rockfish
Since its inception in 2010, the Rockfish group has been planning a scaleup. Building upon the success of their current sites in Exmouth, Torquay, Brixham, Plymouth and the Seahorse restaurant in Dartmouth, Mitch Tonks and business partner Mat Prowse have three new restaurants in the pipeline, with plans to reach 15 over the next four years, of which the first will be a 100-cover restaurant at Exeter Quays, in November. Rockfish is chaired by Hawksmoor co-founder Will Beckett, together with board members Leon founder Henry Dimbleby, Novus leisure chairman John Barnes, and Steve Leadbeater, the former Young’s seafood Managing Director.
Peter SanchezIglesias Brew Pub
Bristol-based craft brewery Left Handed Giant has teamed up with Michelin-starred chef and local hero Peter Sanchez-Iglesias (Casamia and Paco Tapas) to open a brewpub development at Bristol’s riverside Finzel’s Reach – subject to the success of their crowdfund. SanchezIglesias will offer food for the (as yet unnamed) brewpub customers, as well as a development kitchen - expected to serve experimental and innovative food to a small number of diners. Left Handed Giant is run by Bruce Gray (the former Brewdog operations director).
Soho House Mumbai
Rest of the world
The Fife Arms
After four years in the making, Soho House Mumbai is to open this November. Located on Juhu Beach, the 38-bedroom House will feature a rooftop pool and bar, gym, screening room and two restaurants. Cecconi’s Mumbai and The Allis overlook the famous beach. Founder and CEO Nick Jones is also opening Houses in Austin, Paris and Hong Kong.
Hawksmoor
In the culinary equivalent of parking tanks on someone’s lawn, the Hawksmoor founders are taking their steak restaurant to New York. Five years in the making, founders Will Beckett and Huw Gott are creating a flagship in the former United Charities Building, between Madison Square Park and Gramercy Park. The site will feature a 180-cover dining room and a 50-cover bar. The restaurant, opening early 2019, won’t be straying from what’s made it a hit in the UK, working closely with local suppliers to celebrate the best of US produce whilst upholding Hawksmoor’s high ethical and sustainable practices.
HIYA
‘Hiya’ means ‘view’ in Japanese, and Jason Atherton’s latest opening – on the 27th floor of a Shanghai building – has this in spades. The much-anticipated modern Japanese restaurant is the Shanghai version of Atherton’s London restaurant Sosharu – itself a version of a Japanese Izakaya. HIYA is part of The Shanghai EDITION Hotel, a partnership between Mariott and the hotelier Ian Schrager. Atherton is overseeing the hotel’s three restaurant concepts with the help of Scott Melvin and Christopher Pitts.
Hutong
Aqua founder David Yeo is to open his first US restaurant in New York. His restaurant group has more than 12 restaurants across London, Beijing and Hong Kong and will bring high-end Chinese cuisine to the former Le Cirque space near Lexington Avenue. Set over 18,750 sq ft, Hutong is scheduled to launch at the end of this year or early 2019, following on from the success of Hutong at the Shard in London.
The traditional British chippy is getting an overhaul in Edinburgh. Restaurant powerhouse Vittoria Group are planning to open the 11,000sqft space (as yet unnamed and without a date) on Victoria Street in November. With seating for 270, group chairman Tony Corolla hopes the three-floor World Heritage Site, one of the city’s bestknown buildings, will be the go-to location for fish and chips and locally sourced spirits and gins.
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Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
Vittoria Group
HAPPINESS IN HOSPITALITY 2O18 A survey of the industry as a place to work by CODE Hospitality In association with
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HAPPINESS IN HOSPITALITY 2O18 A survey of the industry as a place to work by CODE Hospitality
Why do we work? Why do we work in hospitality? Of course, we all need to earn a salary to pay those bills, but there is so much more that motivates people to turn up every day and often to work very long hours. With our industry facing many challenges, how to look after our people remains the most central. Brexit, twinned with the perception of working in hospitality in this country, has made staffing a perpetual headache. If we are to create a sustainable workforce for the industry in the UK, we need to spread a greater understanding of what needs to improve – we need to listen to those working on the frontline. As an industry, we then need to unite and collectively implement these improvements to attract new talent and retain those already working in it. People make a career in hospitality for more than a pay cheque – they do it from a more deep-rooted passion. The beauty of the industry is that you enter a level playing field. Regardless of background, ethnicity, upbringing and education, you can get a foot on the ladder, and by and large progression will come through commitment and graft. What makes the best server or chef is nothing to do with their background – it’s about so much more. It’s that understanding of how to make someone feel special and that chef’s touch to elevate the simplest produce.
DATA SUMMARY •
Responses were collected in June and July 2O18 across the UK only
•
527 completed surveys
•
48% male / 52% female
•
Majority with 5+ years of experience
•
48 different nationalities
•
All data has been anonymised
We have decided to explore the more qualitative aspects of working in the industry with our inaugural Happiness in Hospitality report. We wanted to look beyond the usual, broad stroke reports – and touch upon the more emotional sides of working in hospitality. We’ve broken down the report to look at the workforce talent, mental health and wellbeing, as well as remuneration and benefits. People are hospitality’s most important asset. To survive let alone sustain our growth, we need to listen to our peers across all facets of the industry. We hope this annual report will be a useful tool for both employers and employees – and help act as that catalyst to affect positive change. As Max Coltart, head of CODE Careers, put it: “The UK has every element required to set the global standard for hospitality, yet we lag behind the rest of the world in our treatment of people. Only when our industry is seen as a viable career, let alone a sustainable one, will we thrive further.” CODE Hospitality
DESPITE ITS CHALLENGES AND OBSTACLES, 78% OF OUR INDUSTRY WOULD RECOMMEND HOSPITALITY AS A CAREER
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Any business is only as good as the people it employs, so what steps can you take to retain your best? The hospitality industry is renowned for being transient when it comes to the length of time people work in one establishment. The results in this report very much reflect this, despite the majority of respondents having worked in hospitality as a career for more than five years. So why do people keep moving jobs? Not only did we want to find out why, we have looked at the different channels that employees use to find new jobs, as well as touching upon mentoring.
15+ years (23%)
O-2 years (6%) 2-3 yea rs( 6% )
Talent
4-5 years (17%)
1O-15 years (24%)
6-9 years (24%)
Years of experience in hospitality Fig. 1
5-1O years
1O+ years
FOH 4O% 24%
26%
8%
8%
BOH
24%
15%
9%
4%
Office 2O% 3O%
33%
12%
6%
48%
1-2 years
2-5 years
Less than a year
Staff turnover ON THE FLOOR 4O% of front-of-house staff move employer within less than year IN THE KITCHEN Nearly 5O% of back-of-house staff change employer within less than a year AT THE OFFICE 5O% of office staff move to a different job within 2 years
Fig. 2 Average staff turnover across all skill sets
Other reasons included:
38% MOVED EMPLOYER FOR THE OPPORTUNITY TO HAVE GREATER PERSONAL DEVELOPMENT
22% Lack of support from employer 12% Incompatibility with manager 7% Promise of better pay elsewhere 7% Lack of variety in their ongoing role 5% Headhunted to join another employer 3% Left to start own business -13-
Talent
How hospitality professionals find their job
Other methods included:
56% FIND NEW ROLES THROUGH THEIR OWN NETWORK
17% 14% 13%
Job advert on employer website Recruiter Job-board posting (including CODE Careers)
85% WOULD LIKE TO BE MENTORED
AND 87% WOULD LIKE TO MENTOR
KEY TAKEAWAYS Employers should have an official and effective in-house recruitment referral scheme as 56% find new jobs via their own network Staff across all experience and departments will on average stay at a business for fewer than two years. This should be an employer’s target benchmark
Get to you know your staff beyond their day-to-day skill set. 38% moved jobs to find a new role to improve their personal development – understand their long-term career aspirations and assist in helping them achieve it Implement a careerdevelopment programme for employees. This would also help to alleviate the second most prevalent reason for leaving – lack of support from employer (22%) -14-
There is a clear demand for a mentor scheme in the industry. Hospitality professionals would benefit from a commitment to both furthering their skill set and receiving guidance through the challenges of the industry
Mental health and wellbeing Mental health has long been a taboo topic in society. Thankfully the stigma surrounding it is starting to be a thing of the past – and we’re learning to speak openly about it. The hospitality industry has been marred by mental health issues due to employees’ work-life balance and the lack of attention to people’s wellbeing. There are now a number of operators with mental health initiatives in place but our report shows that the industry as a whole still has a long way to go when it comes to staff welfare.
9 OUT OF 1O HOSPITALITY STAFF HAVE EXPERIENCED OR WITNESSED ABUSE IN THEIR CAREERS
ONLY 6O% OF STAFF HAVE CHANGING ROOMS – OF WHICH ONLY HALF ARE GENDER SEPARATED
29% of back-of-house staff have received unwanted communications from colleagues, however the rate rises to 48% for front of house. This could be the result of the prevalence of males in back-of-house roles (64%)
4O% DON’T FEEL COMFORTABLE TURNING TO THEIR EMPLOYER FOR HELP
Our report reveals that women in hospitality are more likely to experience sexual discrimination and sexual harassment in the workplace than their male colleagues. However, men are more likely to suffer racial, physical and verbal abuse in the workplace.
THE MOST COMMON WAY – 47% – FOR STAFF TO CONTACT EACH OTHER IN THE INDUSTRY IS ON WHATSAPP
Feedback consistently showed that senior management and owners were directly responsible for or had created a culture of fear of reprisal. To quote one respondent, “the senior managers were the perpetrators. It would put my career at risk to say something.”
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Mental health and wellbeing
Work-life balance Top 3 causes of burnout 1. Unmanageble workload 2. Lack of support network 3. Lack of reward
There is a direct correlation between hospitality professionals experiencing abuse and subsequently burnout. Only 15% who had experienced abuse hadn’t experienced burnout.
For 7 out of 1O who have experienced or witnessed burnout, fewer than half of those feel comfortable turning to their employer for help.
“I AM IN A POSITION OF HUGE RESPONSIBILITY WITHIN THE BUSINESS. I CAN’T BE SEEN TO SHOW WEAKNESS.” Average rating for work-life balance was 6 out of 1O 59% of staff don’t have a designated breakout area 4 out of 1O don’t feel that staff areas are kept to an acceptable standard
Mental health support 72% OF JUNIOR STAFF HELD A NEGATIVE OPINION OF MENTAL HEALTH SUPPORT, WHEREAS 63% OF SENIOR STAFF FELT POSITIVE ABOUT THE QUALITY OF SUPPORT OFFERED
Yes (21%)
I don’t know (3O%)
No (49%)
Fig. 3 Existence of mental health support policy in the workplace
KEY TAKEAWAYS For the majority, mental health support policies are either overlooked or non-existent. This is shown by a clear demand by employees for better channels of communication with senior management/owners
Internal methods of communication need to be standardised, allowing staff to establish a work-life balance, as well as protect their personal data (e.g Yapster) Employers need to improve their workplace environment – making them safer and more hospitable, -16-
for both men and women An improvement in staff facilities. Employees require gender-separated changing rooms, as well a clean, safe and fit for purpose space where staff can “switch off” during their breaks
Remuneration and benefits Money, money, money! The level of pay in hospitality is one that needs to be addressed – and the wider discussion on whether the current business model surrounding restaurants is viable for the future – but here we’ve decided to address the more qualitative issues around remuneration and benefits. We asked what employees want when it comes to benefits – listing the top five for junior staff, management and senior management - as well as getting industry feedback on the tronc system.
A MANAGEABLE COMMUTE WAS THE HIGHEST RATED FACTOR AFFECTING JOB SATISFACTION ACROSS ALL ROLES
More than 6O% of staff at all levels (rising to 7O% across those earning less than £35k p.a.) would be happier if they had financial help towards their commute
Top five benefits
Junior staff
Management
Senior management
1. Flexible working hours 2. Internal discounts/perks 3. Staff meals 4. Team trips 5. Meeting suppliers
1. Flexible working hours 2. Staff meals 3. Team trips 4. Internal discounts/perks 5. Private medical insurance
1. Flexible working hours 2. Staff meals 3. Team trips 4. Private medical insurance 5. Internal discounts/perks
Top five skill sets to develop 1. Business development 2. Wine knowledge and training 3. Finance and accounting 4. PR and marketing 5. Produce knowledge
KEY TAKEAWAYS Given hospitality working hours, employers must recognise the importance of a manageable commute to staff’s happiness. Introduction of season-ticket loans and cycle-to-work schemes are encouraged
Employers need to educate staff on the tronc system and how it works. 66% of staff want more clarity on how tronc is divided, even though it is generally accepted as a fair method of distributing service charge (72%)
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Employers should pay particular attention to qualitative benefits such as flexible working hours, team trips and meeting suppliers. There is demand for cross-training staff in other departments within the business such as wine knowledge and commercially focused skillsets
CODE AWARDS 2O18 As voted for by the industry BEST HOSPITALITY Winner: Soho House Runner-up: Corbin & King
BEST STAFF FOOD Winner: St. JOHN Runner-up: Barrafina
FAVOURITE CRITIC Winner: Jay Rayner Runners-up: Grace Dent and Marina O’Loughlin
FAVOURITE CHEF Winner: Tom Kerridge Runner-up: Anthony Bourdain
FAVOURITE RESTAURANT TO DINE IN Winner: Hawksmoor Runner-up: The Ledbury
FAVOURITE BAR TO DRINK IN Winner: Bar Termini Runner-up: Dandelyan
For more information on Happiness in Hospitality 2018, please contact Max Coltart on 020 7104 5588 / max@codehospitality.co.uk
Everyday People are employee experience specialists, helping to build thriving cultures within hospitality. Providers of Mental Health First Aid training, wellbeing workshops, resilience coaching and bespoke consultancy. www.everyday-people.co.uk -18-
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Ten years on... Angela Hartnett is celebrating a decade of her Michelin-starred restaurant Murano, a brilliant achievement from one of our most treasured chefs. Here she tells Chloë Hamilton about what she’s learnt – from ditching tasting menus to keeping your team happy
Ten years ago we didn’t have to worry about Twitter and Instagram but these days it’s become such a big thing. If you use it right, it’s very good for your restaurant. But if you use it wrong it can be detrimental. When you hear people saying ‘the food’s got to look Instagramable’ you just think the world’s gone mad. What if it tastes rubbish? You can’t think, I’ve got to have a glass plate and therefore I’m going to succeed. You’ve got to believe in what you want to cook. You can tweet as much as you want but if you can’t cook it doesn’t matter how it looks on social media. There’s not really been a change to my social life over the years. I think you can do everything you want, you’ve just got to be organised. Running Murano has never stopped me having a holiday, it’s never stopped me going off and having a facial or going to the movies. I got married. I still have parties. You make sure you’ve got a good team and you work as hard as them and you make sure they have a good time and lots of time off as well. Getting and keeping staff is harder, but everyone knows that. When you’re speaking to Michel Roux who’s running Le Gavroche, and he’s struggling then you think ‘god there’s no hope for anyone’. I’m in a good position but it is slightly frustrating when people email and go ‘so what’s the shift rate? What sort of hours am I working?’ And you think, do you actually want to come and work for me because you want to cook the food I cook? Or is it because you’re going to get three days off a week? We’ve had our guys on a four-day week for years now - at the end of the day, if you treat people properly, they’ll stay with you. We got rid of tasting menus five or six years ago because running that alongside an à la carte is a lot of work for the kitchen and guests wanted to change it all the time. The whole table have to order it, and people go, ‘oh you know but can I change this dish’. I had a great manager who would never say no, so every tasting menu was never as it was supposed to be, which didn’t make it any easier for the kitchen. So I said forget it, let’s just get rid of it. Now you can choose what you want and have it in whatever order you want. If you want a six-course tasting menu, you can do it. If you just want two courses, you can.
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I’ve never regretted doing any TV work, I enjoy the stuff I do and I’ve always thought it’s worth doing. But what I would say is that unless you’re going to be a chef like a Jamie or a Gordon and be on TV the whole time, it should never overtake your job. I choose to take part in a project only if I believe in it. We’re not actors, we’re chefs. I’ve got to like the team I work with, the producers and TV company and if that’s the case, then I’ll do it. If not, I won’t. Fake allergies drive me mad. When people sit there and say they’re allergic to something when they actually just dislike something. I mean there are people with real allergies like gluten allergies and coeliac disease. But when someone says they don’t like something and go ‘it’s an allergy...’ Someone once said they had a visual allergy – that they could eat a sauce with mushrooms as long as they couldn’t see the mushrooms. We had to take the mushrooms out! You have to change with the times. We realised a few years back that people don’t necessarily want to be doing two- or three-hour lunches, so it’s now a much speedier service. We’re very flexible. I’d like to see that Murano still stays relevant. Everyone’s always dissing Michelin and dissing fine-dining - and I don’t like the expression ‘finedining’ - but I do think there’s a world for more luxurious restaurants. Murano is full every day now and I’d like to see it still full in ten years’ time. It’s all about the team. I like the guys I work with and the camaraderie. We did Wilderness festival and it was a lot of my guys from the restaurant who worked it. You work bloody hard and it’s knackering, but you have such a laugh doing it. And I think if you can’t smile at work and have fun in the kitchen, you should get out of show business. And don’t take yourself too seriously. At the end of the day we’re cooking food. We’re not saving lives, we’re cooking a carrot and a potato – let’s put it into perspective.
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
I think there’s a real renaissance of Italian food. It seems to be every 15 minutes there’s another Italian restaurant opening. Having opened Café Murano I’ve tried not to bastardize it so it’s English-Italian but have tried to make it very authentic, which isn’t necessarily that easy for the palate. One thing is telling chefs that dried pasta is equally as good as fresh pasta. Everyone believes fresh is best because obviously there’s more work involved but I don’t think it is for certain dishes. For something like a lobster or vongole linguine I would say dried is better.
We are seeing a lot more women as head chefs but I don’t know whether that’s because it seems to be more out there. I’ve always had the same attitude: I don’t care whether someone’s male or female, I just want someone do a good job. It transpires that I’ve got quite a few female head chefs, female sous chefs, female managers, but I haven’t consciously said, ‘I’m employing you because you’re a woman’. I’m employing them because they’re good.
Racism, restaurants and what we all need to learn In mid-July, chef Shaun Beagley was exposed on Twitter to have been creating online content, centred on cooking Thai food, that was highly racist. It caused a huge amount of reaction and dismay across an already beleagured hospitality industry. Beagley was fired from the restaurant Som Saa, although the damage was done. CODE decided to host an industry-only panel discussion to directly address this situation and to take steps to
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
Addressing the situation Chef Shaun Beagley was found to have posted a series of deeply racist Instagram posts and YouTube videos under the moniker “Boring Thai”, which he had been using to promote a series of pop-ups. The videos were highly bigoted, but most of the content focused on Thai people. The backlash against Beagley and Som Saa, where he worked, was absolute in its condemnation, with the predominant voices being those of Asian heritage within the restaurant industry. Beagley had been posting this content for two years; many in the industry (including those on the panel) had been following him. Therefore, a key question surfaced – how was this missed? The panel discussion began with a summary of the incident. Oliver explained Som Saa’s relationship with Beagley and how and why they approached the situation as they did. Haigh and Yin then stated how they came across the content, and how that made them feel as professionals in the industry with Asian heritage. Both Oliver and Smoking Goat – which Chapman owns – had promoted the offending content on social media, failing to recognise the racist nature of the material. Chapman acknowledged that in promoting it, he also encouraged others to follow Beagley. The discourse that showed that, as an industry, we are not used to addressing and dealing with racism.
prevent such an incident from happening again. The event on 30 July at the Drapers Arms had an audience of 60 and the panel was made up of Andy Oliver (Som Saa owner/chef), Mandy Yin (Sambal Shiok owner), Elizabeth Haigh (Kaizen House chef/owner), Ben Chapman (Smoking Goat and Kiln chef/owner), and chaired by regular CODE Quarterly writer Anna Sulan Masing
A lot of the social media fallout highlighted problematic language and included conversations around what racism felt and looked like. Oliver explained that Som Saa management hadn’t looked at the material in-depth, viewing it as separate to the business and therefore not their responsibility (which they now view as not the way to handle such incidents). To their knowledge, this language and viewpoint was not expressed in the restaurant, which is where they drew their line. Those that followed Beagley gave him the benefit of the doubt, passing it off as edgy humour, partly because they saw other trusted people following him. Some Instagram content was entirely missed, due to the scrolling nature of the medium, where captions often aren’t read. But ultimately, Shaun Beagley felt safe – encouraged, even – to create racist content. There isn’t a straightforward answer to the question of how it was missed, but what it highlights is the need to create safe spaces for people to question and call things out – because no matter how great management is, people may be afraid of being labelled a ‘snitch’ (as Haigh put it) or fear for their jobs. A frank discussion about racism Some responses understood this incident as linear – someone was fired, an apology was written, and the issue was, in their eyes, laid to rest. However,
as the response from London’s Asian community demonstrated, this wasn’t a situation that could be resolved through a linear approach. Rather, years of frustration, anger, and what many felt to be acceptable bigotry towards a minority seen as a ‘soft’ target meant that the entire episode is an opportunity for frank dialogue, and a long-overdue discussion on matters that affect marginalised groups. Language is one of the obstacles when discussing racism. At times, people are uncertain of what language to use, and therefore shy away. But approaching the topic with a caveat of someone learning, who might get it wrong, is OK. It should not be up to those that are marginalised to do all the ‘teaching’, but equally, if they do speak up, then listening is key – people are generally fine with explaining why something isn’t appropriate. For example, an audience member remarked that Beagley had not taken responsibility for his actions – and as the face of the ensuing fallout, Oliver was asked whether he felt he had been ‘lynched’. Here, the use of the word ‘lynched’ is very loaded; at worst, it references US Jim Crow lynch (hanging) mobs; at best, it denotes a hysteria, which undermines the feelings of those hurt. (Oliver responding by saying he didn’t feel attacked and that he understood the reactions, and felt that as a business owner who employed Beagley, he was responsible.) Another key issue to address is
“It’s not an excuse for not seeing it, but I think that when I see something from that stable [Som Saa], my first thought is, ‘It can’t be racist. I know these people day-to-day’, and I just couldn’t join the two things in my head” - Ben Chapman -22-
“I’ve got a staff handbook which is very clear, in which any form of racism or bullying is not tolerated, it’s unacceptable, and it’s gross misconduct. What I do also know is that there’s a fairly macho, aggressive stance sometimes, with lots of banter – between mostly men – that’s just not going to happen in my kitchen” - Mandy Yin the matter of privilege. As a straight, middle class white man cooking the food of a marginalised culture, Oliver has benefited considerably from his privilege. Masing identified that Oliver is afforded the space and ability to experiment and draw attention from the media and industry, whereas for many Thai-owned establishments, simply making a living is a greater concern – something that Oliver acknowledged. There is a difference between being outwardly racist and participating in a racist system that disadvantages minorities. The issues that arose here are symptomatic of a wider problem, of structural racism that exists in every workplace and social setting. And as individuals, wider societal injustice is too much to tackle, but it should be a moral obligation for each person to address systemic inequality within their own backyard. So how do we make sure that this doesn’t happen again? Creating safe spaces and the implications of social media There is no one way to solve this problem, but practical ways of beginning to address this were brought up - including HR management, social media policies, and training senior (and often young) staff how to be managers. With small businesses, it is financially difficult to have HR teams, which produce codes of conduct and the means to enforce guidelines. Chapman explained that
he had implemented an anonymous staff survey, and it was suggested that this idea could be expanded, offering a consistent way for staff to report abuse. And while clear guidelines are fundamental, how can you guarantee that a team member will read the staff handbook? Panellists believed that it was down to the employee to read it, but ultimately management’s responsibility to enforce it. As with any industry, not reprimanding racism as an employer is a form of complicity, allowing a space in which such views are tolerated and able to exist. While staff may not always feel comfortable highlighting racist or sexist behaviour, Yin pointed out that, as a boss, it was your responsibility to be vigilant and show zero tolerance. Haigh recounted an incident in which, as a head chef, she fired a kitchen porter on the spot for a sexist comment, stepping into his place for the remainder of the night. Understanding staff’s use of social media is also a key consideration, since this incident unfolded across multiple platforms. The panel agreed that, while an employee represents themselves, they also represent the company they work for. When rhetoric spills into openly abusive behaviour – as it did here – then an employer has to put themselves in the position of a customer or staff member, and ask whether they themselves would feel comfortable dining or working at a place with someone in the back
preparing their meal who held racist opinions and views. Furthermore, it’s also important to note that a ‘follow’ on social media could be construed as an endorsement. The meeting finished with panel members talking individually to some who had observed the event – and although it was clear that there is a wide understanding of and enthusiasm for better working practices, there’s still a very long way to go. This article is written by writer David Paw – one of the first voices to call out Beagley’s content and an audience member at the event – and panel chair Anna Sulan Masing, to begin to unpick the panel discussion and the wider topic. As with the discussion itself, this is a beginning of the conversation and is from the perspective of two individuals. CODE is planning a series of smaller workshop events to further discuss abuse in hospitality with the aim of drawing up a list of resources for those who want guidance and advice, and to create a code of conduct template that employers can adapt and utilise. For further information, email editor@ codehospitality.co.uk
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“It was very difficult as a mixed-race female chef to come through and actually be taken seriously. At the same time, it’s changed a lot and I think in this industry, there are so many lovely things to it. It’s obviously this grey area where we’ve not really spoken about it” - Elizabeth Haigh
In conversation with... Ben Chapman He’s the powerhouse behind Kiln and Smoking Goat, a self-taught chef and acutely focused businessman. His restaurants are widely acclaimed, so why does he want to spend his time on a farm? Lisa Markwell finds out. Portraits by Harriet Raper
It’s difficult to interview Ben Chapman. The 33-year-old founder of Smoking Goat and Kiln simply has too many interesting things to talk about. If he’s not already writing a book, he should. Over lunch at Brat (which he backs), our conversation ranges from his childhood in Birmingham and his art history degree to falling into restaurant design to taking on an ‘untouchable’ space once owned by Mad Frankie Fraser, to his desire to make Smoking Goat into the next Wagamama (yes, really). He talks frankly about not knowing enough about Thai food when he opened his first restaurant, and the journey to what Kiln offers, via cooking in rural Thailand. His desire to serve fairly priced food for everybody, while also protecting and supporting suppliers, is now his focus. More than anything, he is a passionate and staggeringly wellinformed proponent of a close relationship with a sustainable supply chain. Nerdy, possibly, but essential. And the enthusiasm with which he shows off photographs of an innovative way to rear pigs shows that this wellrespected, very urban restaurateur has a deep connection with nature too. (Turns out he kept chameleons as a child, which isn’t quite like farming,
we need to go and learn”. We needed to accept what we didn’t know and start at the beginning again. How did you actually get started? I’d fallen into restaurant design through meeting Charlie Carroll of Flat Iron, and I was designing the branch on Denmark Street when the landlord walked in. I asked “What are you doing with that little place with the cool shutters?” He said “Do you want it?” I said “Yes, what is it?!” It was available for six months and it used to be owned by a gangster so nobody wanted it. I just walked in and saw Smoking Goat. It was already written! I had like maybe three or four good dishes that I thought worked and were good, and had good connection with meat supply chain through Charlie and through Matt Chatfield who I was friends with - and I was like ‘Ah, no one’s going to come anyway so it doesn’t matter!’ I met Seb [Holmes] who had been cooking at the Begging Bowl before that, so he knew what he was doing and he taught me a lot and that was that really. I was lucky, I had Brian [Hannon] ex-director of restaurants at Selfridges as my partner and he knows a lot. It was exciting because it was cool and that got translated into “good”,
restaurant and I’m like “I could serve this for nothing”! Why can’t put this on? Is it because it’s not ‘restaurant food’? Because I haven’t done enough to show that I’ve done something? Sounds like it would be massively popular. Absolutely and that’s what I wanted to do with Smoking Goat and it’s frustrating that I haven’t achieved it. My whole thing is restaurants are more exciting when there’s a mix of people there having a variety of experiences, you know, like pubs. You could sit there and all three of you could be drinking and just get a big plate of fried rice because then young people would come and not petrified of the bill and worried about who’s eaten what. So now do you think of yourself as a restaurateur? And if so, what’s next? I’ve started in the last six months to think about what I want to do and that’s partly driven by creative satisfaction. What role is that for me actually? What I am really trying to do at the moment is set up each restaurant as almost its own business, that has its own cashflow and therefore growth and give the people that are there - the GM, the head chef and whoever they
“One of my fantasies would be to open something with the accessibility and size of Wagamama in its early days” but I became less comfortable with it the more I learnt about Thai food. Initially you’re like “this is cool, my friends are here” and then your horizons move, don’t they?
feel they need - has serious shares in that company. Once that business in and of itself has generated enough income, they can go and do something else with it.
Let’s start by talking about authenticity, because it’s very much part of the current conversation about restaurants. I’m not even well placed to point out how ridiculous our idea of authenticity is, but if you talk to Thai chefs in Thailand about it they think it’s hilarious - I think we just need a slightly different word! When they say authentic, they mean - are you cutting corners? It’s not going to be the same, but you can definitely take the spirit of the thing and for me that’s where I would look for - for want of a better term - authenticity. I feel really early on with Smoking Goat we really got that wrong and took a fairly meandering understanding. Initially I was really scared of cooking Thai food because I didn’t really know how and didn’t want to half do it. So I found a way in between - not really Thai food, but barbecue with Thai spices. But after a while it was like “no we just need to do this stuff properly,
Talk me through the maths, because it seems perverse: you want to make the food cheaper in your restaurants, and to pay the farmers more. I appreciate the irony of what I’m about to say while choking down a lobster… but I remember once seeing a video of a chef talking about his menu, somewhere in Midwest America. He had meatloaf on the menu and it was $6 and all the other mains were about $24 and he was asked “what’s up with the meatloaf ?” And he replied “it’s for poor people” and I was like “huh?” I totally would have phrased it differently, but we do have the power to do these things… I was in the process of redoing the menu at Smoking Goat earlier today and I was looking at a dish which was a bowl of rice with eggs, some sour vegetables, some little chills around it and it’s incredibly simple, incredibly delicious. It’s way nicer than the things you feel you have to cook in a
People have told me the more successful you are, the further it strays from why you started… There are days when it makes me quite happy and days when it makes me unhappy. There was a moment I realised that people were going to like Kiln and that was going to work and the supply chain worked - and all the product I’d be working on for a year started arriving… And then people come and said ‘this is good’ and I’m like ‘phew’. I’d like have that again but I’m 33 and I don’t know if I will. It feels like what excites you more now is the supply side? Good ingredients are more expensive than bad ingredients… but great ingredients often end up being a lot cheaper than good ingredients. A good example would be the hogget skewers at Kiln. In order to make those, we have hogget taken to a certain age on the moors, then fattened. The farmer puts a huge amount of fat on them and that means that they could be
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but it’s all animals…) His business model is progressive and admirable, like his brain. His is a way in which restaurants may have a long and successful future…
hung for 5-6 weeks, so every single muscle is tender enough to grill on a skewer. I started working on that a year before we opened… I’ve made a commitment to the farmer that this is how we are going to do this thing and you’ve got to be right, to have the economic fluency to know it will work. I’m probably a very extreme example of focusing on the supply chain! The concept of owning a restaurant here tends to come with ideas of wealth and that bollocks and social status and that’s not really what I want to be talking about and actually what I want to do is be creatively fulfilled and go between the farm and the pass. It’s a role that on the continent is done all the time, it’s called the owner. I feel that sense of discipline and not taking the easy route through life. I always say, don’t have ideas and dreams and not do them… put everything you care about on the menu!
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
And now Kiln is the number one on the National Restaurant Awards. Congratulations! Generally when you win an award you get told beforehand and we weren’t. So it doubles the effect because I thought ‘we know we haven’t won anything’! My first reaction - and I think also for Luke the GM and Nick the head chef - was embarrassment really… We are not the best restaurant in the UK and now everyone thinks I think we’re the best restaurant in the UK and now I’ve got to stand on stage, this is weird. But the next day I was in Cornwall on one of the farms and what it meant to the farmers, the justification of what they had been doing… they felt it confirmed that they had found the right way to do it and that was amazing. And that made me realise ‘this is a pretty big thing actually’ and then what also blew me away was that overnight it made the restaurant better. You seem evangelical about pigs. Tell me more… In the run up to Kiln, more than a year before opening, I wanted to cross Tamworths and Mangalitzas - who both root around - and get the flesh flavour from the Tamworth and the fat flavour from the Mangalitza … I started talking to people about doing this and out of the blue this young guy Fred Price, just 28, who had just taken over his family’s arable land - he wanted to start doing something with pigs, and Tom Adams introduced us.
The farm has 26 different types of herbal ley that the pigs are on. It keeps the quality of the land really high and pigs are grazing animals, so with the right type of ley they will just go around and nibble the top off what they need: chicory for high protein, salad leaves that are high in nitrates and so on. It’s way cheaper, because you don’t need feed - the pig looks after itself you don’t need as many of the medicines either. No one’s ever done this before as far as I know.
I can share, but with cooking, I am reaching the edge of what I can teach Nick at Kiln or Ali at Smoking Goat. The impact he’s having on the business is greater than the impact I’m having on it; it’s his thing now. That’s what it’s about. One of my fantasies would be to open something that’s got the accessibility and size of something like Wagamama was in the early days, but with this quality of produce. It would be hard to get there but it feels logical. People always expect me to have this indie DIY mentality, but I enjoy the architectural scale. It wasn’t so long ago that people were saying you couldn’t have this quality of ingredient at Kiln serving that speed of people… it’s nonsense - the opposite is the case. There’s no reason why cheap restaurants can’t have the same quality of ingredients or probably better than expensive ones because they are going through so much of it. It’s easier to have that supply chain. So Smoking Goat is the new Wagamama? You heard it here first! Why not?!
Sounds like a brilliant idea. There are some charcuterie guys who take the sows because they are too big for us but otherwise it’s just us. My focus at the moment is to get other chefs and restaurateurs involved, they want it but I have to tell them ‘you’ve got to still be there in September if you ask for it in June, because this is just one guy’s livelihood.’ My main focus at the moment is to put another 35p on per kilo, till we are at the point where we feel it’s fair in terms of price and really works for him. Fred’s also growing heritage wheats for Ben Glazer at Coombeshead. Once we’ve got him to the point where he’s got someone else, he can then go off and teach other people. It’s going to be amazing. Professionally, what are your goals? For us as a company it’s about these individual people that, when they’re ready, can take the next step. There is the economic fluidity side of it which -26-
And your personal goals? I’d like to spend half of my time at the farms … so I can see that probably involves moving half my life to Cornwall. I imagine I’ll set up some kind of kitchen down there so the guys can come and cook I’d love to work with somebody from a really fine dining level and see how that would fit with our supply chain and how that would fit with our ideas of atmosphere. Not necessarily from a business point of view, but from a creative one - someone like Dan Cox, someone amazing. I’d like to do some pop-ups, it seems a bit crackers, but do some more playful things where I cook. I would love to do a season in Cornwall, just doing specific types of fish curries and if no one comes no one comes, I’d be happy about that. I’d love to travel to regions in China - I want to sit in a market stall somewhere in south east Asia for no specific reason and sit there until I’ve got a good idea again!
What, you’re opening a pub... now? Steve Ryan; Jade Nina Sarkhel
Costs are up, competition is relentless and then there’s Deliveroo but, as successful publican Nick Gibson knows, with good food and a warm welcome, it’s possible to succeed. He discusses the pros and cons with three notable chefs opening their own places
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
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As we head into the latter half of our tenth year at The Drapers Arms, I’d like to be relaxing in the knowledge that we have a great chef, kitchen team, drilled front of house and fabulous loyal customers. I’d like to bathe in the incredibly kind and generous love of our peers and spend hours planning the frankly decadent 10th birthday party that I’ve had in mind since... well, since our fifth birthday party. Instead most weeks, and especially across this last summer, I have been experiencing existential
question… “what were you thinking?”. One of the things that I have always loved most about pubs as a customer is that they are deeply user defined… a good pub lets you choose how to use it rather like a private members’ club for locals, or indeed customers. So sit with a coffee for hours with a laptop, have a pint by yourself, grab a quick but enjoyable lunch instead of having a sandwich at your desk… introduce your girlfriend to friends over a long Saturday afternoon in the sunshine with decent
of cooking they want to offer; honest, enjoyable, predominately French influenced casual dining, in a relaxed dining room adjoined to a casual bar space. Henry describes his thought process post-Racine of wanting to get away from a restaurant where essentially you do one thing – book to eat there, have a pre-dinner drink, eat and head on your way. He wanted to move the food offering to a more relaxed and informal one, at the same time as creating a space for a more
angst for the pub. Will we even make 10 years? Costs are up – not just food, drink, staff, utilities; our business rates alone for example went up 60 per cent in 2017 and again this year. Competition from restaurants is relentless and of course we aren’t immune to the digital revolution. Just think of all those times when a bleakly uninspiring fridge and nothing to watch on telly would in the past have seen you grab your jackets and head to the pub… that now see you reach for your delivery app and scroll through your box sets. Times, frankly, have been a bit tough. When I heard that three of London’s best restaurant chefs - Tom Oldroyd of his eponymous Islington favourite, Henry Harris of the legendary Racine and Dan Doherty who had the world at his feet at Duck & Waffle – were all opening pubs in quick succession I didn’t know whether to laugh, warn them or weep at the illustrious competition that would undoubtedly shine a less than flattering light on our laboured efforts. I settled instead on asking them the obvious
rosé... recover with the papers and a great Sunday lunch with no washing up to do afterwards. In the same way the attractions for this trio of chefs of opening a pub are less homogenous than expected and the accessibility and flexibility of the pub format enables it to stretch over a number of business goals, career objectives and personal choices. Dan Doherty, coming off a highend big-budget restaurant at Duck & Waffle would have felt the pressure to pull off something spectacular as a restaurant follow up – with all the third-party investors, financial pressure and Instagram-able food entailed. Opting for a relatively modest, selffunded, low-budget pub has enabled him to escape the corporate, get back in the kitchen and rediscover cooking as his prime role. Tom Oldroyd, on the back of a restaurant so small he can run the pass and make cocktails at the same time, sees a decent-sized but still affordable pub as a significant growth opportunity for his business. Henry Harris and Tom both see their pubs as opportunities to place the sort
flexible hospitality offering including for drinkers; it dawned on him that the concept he was thinking of already existed in the form of a pub with a dining room. I have to agree that the way we can let people use The Drapers in a way that suits them – including arriving with no intent to eat but choosing to spontaneously after the fact of getting there (from a bar snack to a full meal) – is one of the most attractive aspects. Dan Doherty makes the same point – that the pub space belongs to customers and is inclusive for all budgets and whatever people’s aim is for their visit. I find it interesting that there isn’t a lot of focus in our conversations on the relative economics of pubs versus restaurants. We are all in agreement that the hospitality industry in London is facing challenging times, both currently and with the uncertainties of Brexit. Staffing is a challenge, but for both types of offering, and the same goes for food and drink costs. We do agree that even a pub with a significant focus on its food offering, or a restaurant within a pub as I think
“When I heard these three were opening pubs I didn’t know whether to laugh, warn them or weep at the competition” -28-
we should probably all admit we offer, probably has some advantages from the underpinning of people who just come in to drink. Preserving that pub welcome, having space that people can feel very comfortable just sitting and drinking in without having to reserve and where you don’t assume table service is a philosophical must to all of us. Tom Oldroyd goes as far as to have a clear section of the pub where the dining menu simply isn’t available making sure that at least some of the space is going to be used for predominately drinking laced with some consumption
of his strong bar snack offering (those crab and chips buns right?). Although I raise a quizzical eyebrow at the way people will react to that when the dining area is full and there are only spaces left in the non-dining area I can’t help but admire the purity of the idea. All of the lovely pubs I visit have been carefully preserved as proper pubs that provide a local resource and a warm, informal welcoming space – which is in each case a tribute to the customer-facing sensibility of these talented chefs. I suspect none would be viable without an attractive
food offering bringing in not just locals but people from further afield too. For that, local people have a reason to be grateful to these talented chefs choosing to ply their trade as publicans, whatever their motivation.
Clockwise from top left: Burrata, crudites, both at The Royal Oak; steak tartare, creme caramel, both at The Coach; roast beef at the Drapers Arms; scallops at The Duke of Richmond. Opposite: The Duke of Richmond interior -29-
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Steve Ryan; Jade Nina Sarkhel
“Pubs are opportunities to place the sort of cooking they want to offer: honest, enjoyable, casual dining in a relaxed space”
Worth shelling out for
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
As Clarence Court celebrates its 90th birthday, Kate Woodcock caught up with Adrian Gott at the company’s Wiltshire HQ to talk about why this speciality egg producer is the leading choice for chefs and restaurateurs
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David Loftus
that their core business was in retail, but Gott was determined to befriend the restaurant industry, insisting this was what was needed in the long term. In the beginning he tells me “I left the farm at 5am in the van and drove into London to ensure the eggs got into the right hands”. Today his tenacious approach has paid off. They deliver six days a week and have a full-time telesales team taking down chefs’ orders, as well an app for out-of-hours orders. It is a dedicated service, reflective of Gott’s own determination to keep building relationships with the best in the industry. Daily orders come in for hen and duck eggs, as well as guinea fowl, ostrich, quail, emu and rhea – the list goes on. “Every order is bespoke. Some chefs prefer to have them in five dozen cases, some prefer them in 30 dozen… some prefer smalls, some want double yokers. It’s personal.” For Gott, London is “the heartland and epicentre of food”, and he is proud
of the service his company provides, as well as the high retention rate of their restaurant customers, who make up around five per cent of their business, (the bulk being retailers such as Waitrose and Sainsbury’s). As well as operating their own rearing and laying farms, and feed mill, I ask what it is that essentially sets them apart. “Feed and breed” comes the quick answer, as it is these that give the eggs those distinctive rich, golden yolks and “globular whites” as opposed to the “forced, insipid yolks” that are always such a disappointment when served - I am given an excellent tutorial on how to test any egg for freshness and quality before I so much as crack the shell. Handy. Mark Hix has said he only cooks with Clarence Court eggs, to which Gott responds, “Hixy was a real advocate and helped me a lot…He uses the eggs in all his restaurants and always name checks – it’s reciprocal.” Gott becomes animated when recounting a recent egg demonstration evening with Hix, “he did it all himself, cooking quail egg shooters and floating islands in his kitchen”. So where next? Gott is pleased to tell me that Dishoom has recently come “back on board” after a short hiatus. Looking forward, though, he says they are always exploring ways to improve the current offering: “We’d like to keep improving the service... we probably should have a London hub to capitalise on better service and reduce food miles, but we never knew it would grow to being what it is today.” It wasn’t too far from Chippenham that in 1928 the British botanist Clarence Elliott brought three araucana hens from Patagonia. It was these blue-egg-laying birds, scratching around in Stow-on-the-wold, from which “the breed” has descended. It’s a cracking story (sorry, again).
“I’d leave the farm at 5am and drive to London to get the eggs into the right hands” -31-
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Best known for its ‘Burford Brown’ and ‘Old Cotswold Legbar’ kitchen favourites, Clarence Court is name checked on some of London’s top menus, supplying their free range eggs to more than 500 restaurants and hotels. The Goring, Claridge’s, Soho House and The Ritz are just some of them. At its packing centre near Chippenham in Wiltshire, the surroundings are less urban, more Farrow & Ball – from the eggboxes to the luxuriant greenery out the window. Managing director Adrian Gott is here to explain how he turned the humble British egg into a luxury brand statement. So how do you take such a basic British commodity as the humble egg, and turn it into an affordable luxury? First off, Gott tells me in an faint north-west accent, getting here wasn’t easy. “Eggs are not very sexy, we work really hard to make them cool,” he says, whilst showing me some of their packaging, including a ‘summer’ egg box decorated with hens in sunglasses beneath parasols. Gott is not new to the poultry business. His grandmother owned and ran delicatessens in Cumbria supplying speciality poultry and game, while his father pioneered the trend for chicken-in-a-basket on pub menus in the 70’s and 80’s. So, he admits, it was “always in the blood”. Nevertheless he graduated in commercial property before coming home to roost (sorry) in 2004 “as an apprentice” at Stonegate, owners of Clarence Court, where he was tasked with turning this loss-making speciality producer around (he went on to buy the business in 2016). Gott explains that although investment had already been made into the speciality breeds,“they had got a bit ahead of themselves and increased the supply, but hadn’t created the market”. In order to get the eggs talked about, Gott understood he needed to create traction “amongst those with credibility” from the start. One of the first things he did was consult his uncle, Peter Gott of Sillfield Farm, who advised him to get his eggs into the hands of London chefs and food cognoscenti. Peter’s stall in Borough Market proved “the ideal hub”, enabling Adrian to brush shoulders with the chefs, offering them samples in exchange for valuable feedback. This approach was met by initial reluctance by some, who pointed out
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Each season, publisher Adam Hyman and editor Lisa Markwell make it their business to check out new restaurants and old favourites. These are the places that fuelled this edition of CODE Quarterly
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A shining example We have been in the midst of a speciality coffee revolution for more than a decade. As consumers’ palates develop, the thirst for quality coffee has grown exponentially. La Marzocco continues to support the growth of the speciality coffee community whilst looking forward to developing speciality coffee within the bar and restaurant sector
We are living in an age where consumers are more conscious of their purchases than ever before. From knowing the traceability of a particular coffee to the overall ethos behind our most loved brands, we have a hunger for knowledge and thirst for experience. As offerings from food and drink companies became more complex and plentiful in the previous two decades, the desire to curate individual experiences grew rapidly. This has allowed the sector to experiment and flourish, encouraging manufacturers to innovate their offerings in order to facilitate growth. Founded in 1927 by brothers Bruno and Giuseppe Bambi, La Marzocco takes pride in its Florentine Foundations; sharing the same birthplace as the Italian Renaissance and home to Da Vinci, Michelangelo and Brunelleschi. With these shared renaissance roots, it seems only fitting that La Marzocco would earn a reputation for making superbly crafted and uniquely designed espresso machines, all handmade in Florence with impeccable attention to detail and constant innovation. Throughout its life, La Marzocco has had several defining chapters. These include the invention of the horizontal boiler in 1939. This innovation revolutionized commercial coffee consumption by making it possible to add more group heads, as well as simplifying the task of operating the machine. In 1989, Giuseppe’s son, Piero, designed the Linea Classic, a machine which would become the face of the modern speciality coffee revolution across the globe. With 90 years’ experience to its name, La Marzocco exports espresso machines to more than 100 countries - and with offices from Sydney to London, the company has presence across the five continents. Along with being key fixtures in some of the world’s most established speciality coffee roasteries and cafes, La Marzocco is proud to find its machines in renowned spaces such as The Fat Duck, Hawksmoor and throughout the Soho House group.
a high standard is fundamental. This can be achieved through choosing the right coffee roaster and using the best equipment available” – Paul Kelly, General Manager, La Marzocco UK & Ireland.
“We are proud to work within an industry that centres itself on quality and innovation. With consumers’ palates continuing to become more refined, the importance of serving coffee to
Espresso extraction is both an art and a science, and this appreciation of the core ingredient is synonymous with the most revered restaurants and cocktail bars. As more people delve deeper into the world of speciality
As time moves on, La Marzocco keeps its eyes on the future, but with its heart rooted in its historical successes. Born from the iconic Linea Classic, in 2015 the company introduced a new machine specifically designed for the home espresso enthusiast: the Linea Mini. With comparable professional grade performance, but in a compact and ergonomic package, the Linea Mini has a dual boiler system to allow simultaneous espresso extraction and milk steaming, without a drop in performance. It also boasts pre-programmed pre-infusion, a hidden water reservoir, an accessible temperature dial and LED barista lights, so you can always closely inspect the espresso’s extraction. The machine presents the design and performance of a commercial La Marzocco machine, including professional quality technological components, redesigned for the kitchen. With the Linea Mini, La Marzocco continues to encourage the espresso revolution. The Linea Mini is a versatile machine that not only suits the domestic market but is equally at home within the hospitality realm. Big performance in a small package, the Linea Mini has a footprint that has made it the ideal choice for hospitality spaces that are limited on space but do not want to sacrifice quality, functionality and style. “Working with La Marzocco, and more specifically the Linea Mini, has allowed us to continually increase the quality of the coffee used in some iconic cocktails and cocktail bars. Easy to use, and an ideal size for restrictive bar spaces, the Linea Mini continues to be our recommendation in espresso equipment” – Tom Hobbs, Development Manager, Grey Goose Vodka
coffee, they understand the multitude of variables that come in to play when making high-quality coffee. The Linea Mini allows the barista to adjust, fine-tune and control these variables themselves. Once you hit that sweet spot and experience speciality coffee at its finest, there’s no going back. “Thanks to the Linea Mini I can efficiently dial in tasting notes of coffees for my projects without any big instalment or investments. The Linea Mini is super-handy and easy to operate without vast coffee knowledge and experience. I really recommend it to everyone who’s trying to introduce specialty coffee to their market and for those who aim to advance their current espresso machine offering.” – Martin Hudak, former senior bartender at The American Bar, The Savoy and World Coffee in Good Spirits Champion 2017.
For an exclusive discount available for CODE readers visit uk.lamarzoccohome.com and use CODEHOME at checkout For more information on La Marzocco, visit uk.lamarzocco.com or get in touch on 020 7253 1644 and info.uk@lamarzocco.com
in collaboration with CODE Hospitality
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
Shin-Hye Lee
How I get
around
If you run more than one restaurant, chances are you’ll spend a lot of time travelling. Lisa Markwell asks restaurant industry leaders about their wheels – from those on a suitcase to those on a bus... Photographs by Joe Sarah and Shin-Hye Lee
Between Hélène Darroze at The Connaught and Restaurant Hélène Darroze in Paris
Hélène Darroze Fellow travellers passing through St Pancras to get onto a Eurostar train to Paris would be forgiven for not noticing a culinary megastar in their midst. Chef Hélène Darroze usually arrives with moments to spare, and walks briskly through the station in a cosy sweater and flats (closer inspection proves that they are Gucci). She leaves her Michelin-starred status along with her whites at the Connaught “When I’m travelling between one restaurant and the other I have a chance to catch up on my emails, work on menus and other projects - sometimes looking out the window and having a moment to reflect also gives me inspiration for new ideas!” She smiles. “After 10 years of travelling with Eurostar,
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everyone there have become an extended family. Everybody knows me and have seen my girls grow. They are completely part of my life!” Darroze has the commute, which can be more than once in a week, down to a fine art. “I can leave from the centre of Paris, and arrive into London with a quick 20-minute taxi ride to The Connaught. It’s perfect. On some occasions I will come in for the day, and know I am back home to see my girls before bedtime.” Communication is important too. “As I’m on a train it also means apart from when I am in the tunnel I can keep in touch with the world!”
Jackson Boxer
Joe Sarah
Between St Leonards and Brunswick House
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service – also needs attention. And there’s the matter of his two small children too… “My biggest challenge?” he muses. “Time. No one ever needs me urgently in half an hour, they need me desperately five minutes ago. Until there’s some major amendments made to the theory of general relativity this will persist in being a problem for me.” But it’s not just speed that makes it Boxer’s transport of choice. “Riding bikes is about the most fun thing you can do legally, and so far has proven much better for my health than excessive consumption of drugs and alcohol, which is what I did for everdiminishing kicks in my 20s.”
The wide glass entrance and polished concrete floor of St Leonards is probably robust enough for Jackson Boxer to ride his motorbike straight inside, but he resists the temptation, keeping it round the corner ready to leap onto if needs be. “It’s the only method of getting about London faster than the tube, with the advantage of comprehensive air conditioning,” he laughs. With his fitted leather jacket and smart boots, there’s no mistaking him for a Deliveroo driver as he roars round Old Street roundabout. Boxer is spending much of his time at the Shoreditch restaurant, although Brunswick House – a favourite for big private events as well as regular
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
Joe Sarah
Jeremy King
Between The Wolseley, Brasserie Zedel, Bellanger, Fischer’s, The Beaumont, Colbert, The Delaunay, Café Wolseley
You would expect Jeremy King, as one of London’s most revered restaurateurs, to be a recognisable figure. You might be a little more surprised to see him sailing down Pall Mall on a bicycle. But that is indeed the mode of transport he often uses to move between his always-busy restaurants. “I actually use several methods depending on time of day, location and of course the weather!” King has a marvellous story from the early days of The Ivy, when he got around by scooter. “The shop tried to sell me waterproof clothing for when it was cold and wet,” he laughs. “I told them when it’s cold and wet I’ll be in a car!”
“I would still use a scooter now,” he adds, “but the proliferation of them means that parking is virtually impossible. So my transportation divides between bicycle, tube, walking, bus and my car (I’ve had the same one, an old Bristol, since 1985).” Are we sure he doesn’t own a time machine? Those who dine in any of the Corbin & King restaurants will know that their co-owner has a brilliant knack of appearing to greet people. “In truth finding the time and also accepting that it is impossible to ever see as many customers as I would like is the challenge. Luckily we are a team of directors and between Chris, Robert, Jason and myself, I now feel that it is just as important seeing the staff.”
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Margot Henderson
Joe Sarah
Between Rochelle Canteen and Rochelle Canteen at the ICA
“It’s the glamour,” she guffaws. “It turns on a 50p coin, it’s a ducker and diver, and it looks especially cool piled up with crates of food or lots of staff.” With a busy events arm, Arnold & Henderson, as well as the two restaurants, a taxi is a handy vehicle – not least because it can go in the bus lane (well, that’s what Henderson says). But as she also says, she’s not always for hire by the staff… “The challenge is trying not to be a pain to everyone, just letting go and trusting them! You can’t be in two places at once.”
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Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
The familiar curved chassis, that tick-tick-tick of the engine … anyone who’s spent any time in London knows the look and sound of a classic black taxi. But look at this particular one more closely and it’s clear that it’s not your standard vehicle. Behind the wheel is Margot Henderson, who uses her beloved cab to get between her restaurants in Shoreditch and the Mall. “I’ve had one for years,” she says, as she obligingly parks up on Arnold Circus for a photograph. Why, when so many people say driving in the capital is a nightmare, does she have her own taxi?
Stevie Parle
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
Joe Sarah
Between Pastaio, Craft London, Palatino, Rotorino and Sardine
Stevie Parle lives “practically off-grid” in the Kent countryside, so it’s quite a mission to get to the capital. Unlike some commuters, though, he doesn’t mind the train. “I live in Kent and get the train from Canterbury most days. It’s fast and comfortable and I really find the time I spend on the morning useful in getting ready for the day,” he smiles. It’s once he’s in London that the fun starts, moving between his five restaurants… “I try and manage my diary so I spend one day in each restaurant and the meetings I need to take come to me wherever I am. This never works and I end up running from one to the other all day like an idiot.”
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Parle does have the advantage, if he needs to run from Soho to Docklands to Dalston, of being very tall, so he can outpace everyone else on the pavement. If he does use the bus, which he enjoys, he has to stoop to get in through the doors, though. “During the day I like to walk, or take the bus, and more often than not jump in an Uber. I don’t get the tube that much but it’s by far the quickest way to get to Craft London in North Greenwich.” And after all that running around, it’s back to the countryside. “On the way home I’ll read and unwind a bit before getting home to a house full of kids and mayhem!”
LISA MARKWELL
Joe Sarah
Between CODE HQ in the west end and the Sunday Times in London Bridge
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Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
CODE’s editor Lisa Markwell drives a 10-year-old electric car around London – between CODE HQ in the west end and the Sunday Times in London Bridge (where she spends half the week). However the GWiz, or CODEmobile as we call it, also doubles up as a delivery van for the Quarterly. It’s become a ritual for Markwell and founder Adam Hyman to drive around the capital delivering magazines.
Tools of the trade Shaun Searley is known for his refined cooking at Quality Chop House (those confit potatoes, that olive oil ice cream!) but occasionally he swaps cheffing for butchery. Here he tells Lisa Markwell why. Photographs by Harriet Raper
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
Shaun Searley has been at Quality Chop House since its reinvention in 2012. In keeping with the historic site’s name, he wanted to do butchery on site, which he’d learnt in previous kitchens. But the restaurant’s tiny size was a problem: “we did all of the butchery directly on the pass in between lunch and dinner services,” he says with a laugh. After a year, they bought the decorators’ supply shop next door for retail and employed a butcher. “We wanted to have an element of retail butchery as well as supplying the restaurant.” So why does the head chef still haul whole lambs onto the vast wooden block to break them down? “I like to keep my hand in – but I do a lot less now than I used to! We are trying to push forward with the restaurant so it’s not the best use of my time to be boning out game birds…” Searley is arguably best known for the confit potatoes that are a permanent fixture on the QCH menu, but all the meat dishes are equally stellar. He knows and cares about the produce passionately. And despite a permanent shortage of chefs, he passes on the knowledge. “Every chef that comes to work here is expected to do a stint on butchery. Over the next few years we’ve seen a shift and more people are interested, but to do it yourself is still very oldschool.” The meat We do take whole animals where possible, but such is the demand in London you have to mix - we also work with our primary suppliers to get us different parts at different times … so it may not be all from the same beast but we are still using the entire animal. The problem with a commercial fridge like ours is that you have to use the meat quickly, whereas primary suppliers have chambers that meats can be stored in, it can stay really, really dry. The knives The tools for butchery haven’t really changed. With a lot of cooking there’s
loads of new tools, but for this job it’s a good boning knife, a good slicing knife, a decent cleaver, a saw, a steel and you’re good to go. Oh and obviously twine. So not a lot… and I don’t use the cleaver very often. It’s all about going through joints rather than going through bone, but if you have to, that’s what the saw is for. Otherwise it’s about going around joints, that’s where the skill is - and I’ve worked with butchers in the past who are way more elegant than me! I use this Victorinox knife in the
kitchen as well as in here - you can get it very sharp and it stays sharp too. All of the knives get a lot of action, so the edge does get depleted very quickly. We change the blade on this saw every three or four weeks - the fresher the better! This is not work to be taken lightly. I’ve seen some bad saw cuts on people, where the saw blade has jumped out and because your fingers are generally next to it, guiding the way… nasty. -42-
The steels and stones I’ve got a stone that I use for the kitchen and a finer steel that we use too. This steel in the butcher’s room is to keep it sharp through the day and if you’ve got time at the end of the night you do a full sharpen… “If you’ve got time” (laughs). With a steel there are loads of different options, you can go for a coarse diamond steel or a ceramic, but you should only really be finetuning or honing any knife during the day and using different levels of stone later. If you have a coarse and a fine stone you should be able to bring any knife back to life. The block We bought this block new four or five years ago and it get a lot of use. I remember it arriving - moving it in was a real task, it’s so heavy. It’s end grain, of course, and it’s extremely important the way has been put together - smaller squares of wood joined together and then turned on its side and cut through. That’s to make it hard and not as porous. The wastage is ridiculous on making anything end grain - and I think the price reflects that. It’s not something you can just pick up and brush down - it gets wire brushed every day , but we don’t oil it or anything, the natural fats in the meat do that anyway. We use sawdust too, to seal any gaps. I’ve heard of people putting salt on their blocks but I disagree -that draws the moisture out and you don’t want it to start to crack! I got my dad to make me a butcher’s block for home. He does actually work with wood, he’s been a carpenter his whole life, producing beautiful pieces. He wouldn’t call it art, but it is.
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Head to head In each edition we ask two industry figures to face off on a subject exercising the food world. This season we ask a restaurateur and chef why they have such different approaches to kitchen equipment
“WHAT’S WRONG WITH THE CENTURIES-OLD METHOD OF HEATING OIL IN A PAN AND HEARING MEAT SIZZLE?”
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
Russell Norman, POLPO Restaurants I have always tried to make the food in my restaurants look and taste like home cooking. It’s a lot more difficult than you think. Home cooking is about generosity and abundance. It comes from a heartfelt sense of tradition, warmth and love. Restaurant kitchens count precision, expertise and consistency among their virtues. Not being a professional chef myself, I have always had a preference for home cooking, holding gingham-aproned grandmothers in far higher esteem than white-jacketed pros. But it is also the environment and equipment of a professional kitchen that can sometimes get in the way of the simplicity and honesty of a home cooking philosophy. And I believe it’s getting worse. Top of the list of my bêtes noires is the sous-vide machine. Supposedly designed to deliver consistency of flavour, an even pinkness in meat, reliability in terms of temperature control and enhanced mouth-feel and texture, to me it’s a boilin-the-bag monster. Cooking using the sous-vide method reduces expensive cuts of meat to tepid, mushy baby food. There is something slightly disgusting and livery about the results - a pale protein, vacuumpacked and bathed in warm water. It’s what I imagine synthesised meat might look and taste like in some dystopian future. What is wrong with the centuries-old analogue method of heating some butter in a pan, getting it nice and hot, hearing that sizzle as the salted meat hits the fat, smelling those juicy aromas as they fill the kitchen, getting the edges a little charred and the marbling rendered... I’m starting to drool as I type. I wouldn’t be getting quite so excited looking at a £500 stainless steel plug-in water bath. Are old methods always better? I have to say, I think they are. Anything that gets you closer to your ingredients, more intune with your food has to be better in my view. Part of the magic of cooking is the transformation. Turning base materials
like onions, celery, carrots and garlic into sauces, soups, stews and risottos is borderline alchemic. But starting that process in the kitchen with a sharp knife and a chopping board is as close as I can get to meditation on a daily basis. There is something quite therapeutic about making a really fine soffritto from scratch. Likewise, starting a loaf of bread by mixing fresh yeast with sugar, watching it liquefy and then making an elastic and responsive dough. And having spent time living in Italy alongside real-life pasta grannies I got to appreciate the absolute pleasure of turning a mound of flour onto a Carrara marble work surface, making a small volcano and cracking a couple of yolks in the centre to start the day’s ravioli. Joy. Why would you want to bypass these pleasures by introducing electric bread makers, food processors, and other gadgets and gizmos? I despair somewhat when I look into restaurant kitchens and see a space that resembles a chemistry lab rather than a food preparation area. I like to see flames, hear the clatter of pans, sizzling, bubbling, splashing, shouting... Molecular gastronomy has a lot to answer for, promoting cleverness, inventiveness and science over flavour, simplicity and a focus on ingredients. And TV programmes like MasterChef, seem to have convinced our young chefs that it’s OK to use as many techniques and ingredients as possible on a single plate of food. I’m not a dinosaur. I’m barely
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old enough to remember Keith Floyd on the telly. But I am passionate about food, and I believe that simplicity, honesty and tradition are worth fighting for. I’m suggesting a recalibration of priorities and a return to basics. There is an inverse relationship between quality of ingredient and the amount you have to do in the kitchen. In other words, let the food speak for itself. Chefs are not artists, they’re not pharmacists, they’re not scientists nor are they magicians. They’re cooks. Let’s put The Cook back into cooking.
“WITH OUR COMBI OVEN YOU CAN STEAM FISH, BAKE BREAD, DRY ROAST OR DEHYDRATE, SIMPLY BY PRESSING A FEW BUTTONS” James Knappett, Kitchen Table Ask someone to picture a typical kitchen and they might come up with something like this: a small, dark room packed with burly chefs, elbow to elbow in front of roaring open flames, creating a cacophony of thudding cleavers and clattering pans as they work. At Kitchen Table, it’s a little different - we serve 20 guests a night, 12 courses each, and our open kitchen is, essentially, an island right in the middle. Each service, there’s nowhere to hide: everything that I, and my brigade of chefs, do, is carefully watched. So while there’s nothing wrong with roaring
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over their next course, and no chef wants a dining room full of hot, uncomfortable guests - a key concern of ours when someone can be seated 2 feet away from the hob. It’s also really easy to keep clean, which is so important, especially when somebody is eating nearby. Open flames require a big, noisy extraction system, but our induction hob means that we don’t have one. Our diners can have a conversation without resorting to shouting and sign language, and can engage and chat with us directly, which is the whole point of Kitchen Table. We also use a Rational combi oven, which is our most useful piece of large equipment, and the one that all my chefs fight over. At the risk of sounding like an infomercial, it really does do everything. You can steam fish, you can bake bread, you can dry roast or dehydrate, simply by pressing a few buttons to choose whatever fan setting or amount of moisture you want kept in there. With all this said, I’ll admit that technology does have its limitations - I would never cook meat in the rational oven, as the second-by-second control given by pan-cooking or grilling is so necessary. And with every young chef that comes into my kitchen, the first thing I ask is if they’ve brought their own turning knife. It may be low-tech, but it really is one of the most useful tools chef can have in his arsenal. Perhaps there’s a secret technophobe in me after all. Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
flames and clattering pans, we take a different, more technology-driven approach. In terms of prep, the first thing I do each morning when I get into the kitchen is fire up the KitchenAid, cup or mug - of espresso in hand. We bake our bread in-house every day, which means a fairly heavy reliance on the KitchenAid for mixing the dough. It’s a dream - throughout prep I’m inevitably sidetracked by deliveries, discussions and phone calls, so it gives me peace of mind to know that I can leave it whirring away in the background. Our Vitamix is my favourite piece of equipment - it purées everything extremely finely. Our menu is always 12 courses, and changes daily, so there are a seemingly endless number of sauces to prepare. We use the Vitamix for all of our sauces and herb oils, including sorrel sauce, thyme oil, fig leaf oil, and pine oil. I particularly love a fresh mint sauce that we whizz up to order, right in front of the guest, before we serve it - the flavour and colour are extraordinary, and we’d never be able to replicate it without the Vitamix. We also embrace the joy of technology during service, but more for the benefit of our guests than the chefs. Full disclosure: we also have a charcoal grill in the kitchen, but we mostly cook over an induction hob, for a number of reasons. Firstly, it keeps the heat down. No guest wants to watch a chef sweating
Wine minds Hospitality is a vibrant, exciting, highly competitive and often challenging universe, full of brave, curious, passionate and geeky people whose thirst for knowledge is sometimes buried underneath everyday work. Bibendum has launched the Wine Minds Programme to help quench that thirst and to help talented individuals make their way up the career ladder. Elona Hesseling reports. Launched earlier in 2018, Bibendum’s Wine Minds Programme creates a network for like-minded individuals working in the hospitality industry, giving them an opportunity to develop their skills and get ahead in their careers. Through a combination of industry events, tastings and masterclasses, it gives participants an in-depth and unique knowledge on specific topics. There are lots of talented and passionate individuals who don’t always get exposure or invitations to tastings and events, and the idea is to create a programme that not only gets them involved, but creates a community. The programme is open to anyone working in drinks or hospitality in the UK, that is still busy climbing the career ladder, and has a good basic knowledge of wine. Working in collaboration with producers and other industry experts, previous sessions have been ‘Understanding Sweet Wine’ and ‘Getting to Grips with German Riesling’, as well as ‘The Full English’ trip to Ridgeview and Plumpton College.
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
Healthy Wine Minds
While most of the sessions are focused on wine and drinks, the programme is also about helping members achieve a balanced lifestyle. 1 in 4 of us will experience mental health issues this year. We know it takes a huge effort to grin and bear it, and it’s difficult to remember you’re not alone. Working with The Benevolent, charity to the drinks industry, we have created a half-day workshop on mental health to explore everything from understanding the available support options to identifying and managing stress and other daily issues. This session took place at the end of August 2018, and another will be held in 2019.
What Wine Minds members have to say
“The programme endeavours to bring the vast amounts of knowledge that top sommeliers, vintners and
other wine people possess to other sectors of the alcohol industry. I’ve already learned a tremendous amount – it’s amazing how much can be learned from knowledgeable speakers in just a few in-depth masterclasses.” Sam Ameye, bartender at Bar Swift “First and foremost, I was really glad to see that the Wine Minds Programme is not some reduced version of a WSET course. Rather than covering basic general wine knowledge, it targets very specific topics or categories and goes really in depth. Most recently we attended a session on sweet wines that dealt with precise matters in much detail, from Tokaji’s history as the wine of kings to Sauterne’s legal minimum potential alcohol levels (on top of actually tasting all the wines). This is great for people like me who want to get really geeky and understand wine in all its aspects. The programme also brings together people with different backgrounds, nationalities and levels of experience but the same curiosity, which always makes for exciting conversations.” Romain de Courcy, bartender
The Wine Minds Apprenticeship In addition to this programme, Bibendum has now launched a six-month apprenticeship scheme, which will give successful applicants the chance to further advance their careers. This apprenticeship will provide two aspiring individuals the chance to undergo either WSET L2 or L3 training, complete a bespoke internship with a leading producer, and attend a full calendar of masterclasses and visits to wineries across the world. The first two successful candidates will start their apprenticeship in early 2019.
“Wine Minds has been a discovery for me – the events are not only perfectly organised but the topics always have an unexpected angle to keep them interesting. Team members behind the programme clearly enjoy what they do and this enthusiasm is contagious; I have been an avid attendee from my first session. Oh, do I even need to mention it includes tasting? Yes, it does – but it’s a combination of both wine and knowledge, which makes the programme really worthwhile.” Inga Zubaviciute, F&B service training and quality manager at the Royal Lancaster London
Interested in the Wine Minds Programme? Visit www.bibendum-wine.co.uk for more information.
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in collaboration with CODE Hospitality
Photos taken during ‘The Full English’ trip to Ridgeview and Plumpton College, getting really geeky about English wine.
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Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
“There are lots of talented and passionate individuals who don’t always get exposure or invitations to tastings and events, and the idea is to create a programme that not only gets them involved, but creates a community.”
Crunch time
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
If you think cider is a pint-in the-pub drink, think again. Felix Nash, owner of the Fine Cider Company, explains the nuanced quality that occurs when apples are treated well by creative makers
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James Moriarty; Olivia Estebanez
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be it high acid, low acid, tannic, etc. They must then respond to this nature, to avoid faults and tweak what they do according to the vagaries of the seasons. Because just as you can make good cider from apples that are not traditional cider apples (it is very, very rare), so too can you make bland and dull cider from cider apples, as many makers do. A key concept you come to know about cider, by taste as much as anything, is that the very same apple variety will grow differently in different parts of the country; we all know how specific the regions of wine are, in cider these localities are only really just starting to be defined. This sense of terroir sees Somerset tending to produce mellower ciders than the tannic qualities of Herefordshire, and a huge divide between the apples of the East and West coasts of our little island. Soil types such as the red clay soils of parts of Herefordshire, and localised weather variations such rain shadows combine with each seasons weather to give variation to every area and vintage. The pressing of the apples to get juice is pretty immaterial. There are many machines to do so, old and new inventions, and indeed it’s interesting to remember that it is a lot harder to press an apple than a grape: an apple must be ground up first, grapes can be pressed simply by foot. But really, you are just juicing. What you choose to do with the juice after it has been freed from its cellular embrace is, however, is of huge importance. Do you go with stainless steel tanks, or with oak barrels? If you go with oak barrels usually they will be second hand, formerly used for whisky, rum, or wine. Each will be different, in shape, size, and what it held, and no two will be the same. The barrels will be populated by microflora, a unique community, that can live to depths of around a centimetre in the wood, beyond the reach of cleaning. Next comes the fermentation, and here the finest ciders have a natural proximity to natural wine, as allowing wild yeasts to ferment the cider inherently can provide more complexity and more flavour. Think of them as a broad ecosystem, different characters doing different things, rather than the hegemony of a cultured yeast which will be laboratory bred, vigorous as though on steroids, but lacking such diversity of effects. The great cider maker Tom Oliver often raises his fist in the air while giving a talk, and says “there are a million yeasts in my fist”, such are the abundance of wild yeasts. Many hundreds of thousands can be found in the apple itself, on the skin and in the flesh, but it is reckoned around 95 per cent of the wild yeasts in a fermentation will simply be ambient, from the surroundings. Working with wild yeasts is often a clear sign of the skill of the maker, as working this way inherently holds risk. You give over control for the
“Good cider is a much greater rarity than good wine” - J.M. Trowbridge, New York, 1890. This is also very true today, and it’s fascinating how perennial the question of what defines good cider seems to be. Mr Trowbridge went on to give a definition of quality cider including such things as: “It should be fragrant, it should be tart, and by no means sharp or harsh” and “It should have a pleasant fruity flavor, with aromatic and vinous blending, as if the fruit had been packed in flowers and spices.” Here I think of the past eras when cider was a different thing than it is today, when Champagne ciders were the norm or cider flutes the chosen glass of the fellows of the Royal Society; now a little known corner of history. So what do I look for in seeking quality cider today? Let’s start with the skill of the maker. Skill takes humility, a desire to ask what can be done better and how. All of the best cider makers are both proud and humble, which gives aspiration to what they do. It’s a hard thing to assess, particularly at a glance of a drinks list or shelf. But this aspiration takes the maker deep into the key questions that confront them, knowledge about which are all the more key for minimal intervention makers, as they are really their only tools: apple variety, container, time and style/method. Centuries of understanding, accidental discoveries, and interactions with (at times ahead of) wine, form the basis to all that cider can be. You have more than 7,000 apple varieties in the world, all of which can be traced back by DNA (except crab apples) to one ancestor, an apple variety from the apple forests of the Tien Shen mountains in Kazakstan. Historically there have been more than 360 named cider apple varieties in Britain, and 500plus in France, so even which apples to use is a huge choice in itself. As one of the most important things to understand about cider is that it is not just one thing, to most it perhaps is: sweet, sparkling, cold and poured into a pint glass. To know what is good means understanding what is bad: to be called cider in Britain today a drink needs only be made from 35 per cent apple juice; this can be from any apples, and can even be from concentrate. But at its highest potential, cider is a thing of many styles, just as wine is, and it is made in much the same manner as a pure articulation of the fruit. Some would say only cider apples will do, and indeed they are varieties of apple that have been discovered and bred for specific properties, such as high sugars and tannins. But let’s not be beholden entirely to such a title, and simply assume its etymology to be correct. Instead what I look for is a cider with a character of its own, crafted by a maker who really understands the nature of their fruit, and listen to its seasonal variations:
promise of more, of letting nature do its thing, but nature can be cruel as well as kind. It is a process of stewardship, trying to understand what is happening and doing all you can to help things along in the way you wish. Lyle’s in Shoreditch created a cider list based upon this diversity. As Lyle’s drinks expert Nominoe Guillebot puts it, “they are all from different terroirs, different areas of England, different process of making”. And with such an understanding and interaction with wild yeasts as Tom Oliver employs, the results are unique. “Oliver’s cider are always special... It is this constant research and experimentation that make his cider so special. They are like nothing else. That is what we are looking for at Lyle’s.” In the world of mass market cider, a fermentation can be forced to occur in as little as a few weeks. Contrast that to many of the cider makers we work with, whose fermentations will be long and slow - across the entirety of winter at the very least, but often continuing through to a secondary malolactic fermentation and then being matured for a few years before it is released. For example, we currently hold a 2011 season bottle on our list, and are soon at have a 2003 available. In the 18th century it was reckoned cider should be seven years old, by the 19th century this had broadened to 20 or 30 years. So too can style/method be just a signal of the aspiration of the maker: the more complex the method, the greater the difficulty in getting it right. But equally, go for the beautiful simplicity of a still cider, and any flaws will not be hidden by bubbles and the likes. Opt for the
Champagne Method - a technique developed following the invention of Verre Anglais bottle glass in Herefordshire in the early 1600’s (the first bottle glass strong enough to take a secondary fermentation) - and your creation will be judged relative to veneration of Champagne more than the mass market of cider. Avoiding the appeal of
preservation methods such as pasteurisation, sulphites or sterile filtration is a harder task in cider than in wine, as cider is almost always lower in alcohol, yet this is both a wonderful sign of the skill (or at least aspiration) of the maker, and will tend to yield a fuller and purer expression of the fruit. Combined these options are a chess match of choices, millions of variations, with no two paths the same. So in the process of making a cider in such a manner, the chess player will inherently develop a unique style of their own, and a route they have chosen to go down. Facing up to this complexity, not taking the easy mass-market route of control and constraint, is the beginning of a good maker. This complexity, combined with the revelatory experiences I have been lucky to drink in the past few years, makes me dream of the coming years in this emerging world of fine cider. You have a world of provenance, of skill and history, combined with myriad of possibilities not yet defined. My favourite epithet for cider comes from its 17th and 18th century heyday, the era of the cider flutes I mentioned earlier. It says that cider is “England’s Native Wine”. I like wine, I mean I prefer cider, obviously, but wine has a lot going for it, so it’s not a bad thought to end on.
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
“What you choose to do with the juice after it has been freed from its cellular embrace is of huge importance”
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The drinks report As agave-based drinks have grown in popularity (no longer associated with just pub crawls and next-day regrets), a deluge of brands have exploded on the market. While tequila has been remodelling its image into a luxury product, mezcal has made a headway onto cocktail lists and mezcallerias in London, paving the way for other agave drinks to follow suit. Faced with all this choice, Ophelia Keane picks the ones worth sipping on right now
TEQUILA
MEZCAL
Aqua Riva When veteran TV personality Cleo Rocos couldn’t find an affordable tequila easily she decided it was time to make her own (as you do). The result is this very drinkable 100% agave tequila which is loved by enthusiasts and bartenders alike, and cemented her as the “Queen of Tequila”. Their blanco is crisp and clean with a citrusy aftertaste (look out for her recipe for a ‘hangover-free margherita’.) £26.95 thewhiskyexchange.com ___
Dangerous Don Thea Cummings, founder of Dangerous Don, might just be making some of most interesting and delicious mezcal I’ve tasted. After a trip to Mexico two years ago, she has committed her time to creating Dangerous Don, a coffee mezcal labelled with her father’s nickname. Distilled twice then steeped with Oaxacan coffee beans, the taste is outstanding; combining the richness of coffee and the smooth, sweet elements of mezcal. Thea’s passion is also unwavering – she co-founded and runs London Mezcal Week and has committed to responsible growth for her company. £56.50 distillersdirect.com ___
Maracame As well as being some of the most beautiful bottles I’ve come across (each one is adorned with a handmade decoration by the Hichol Tribe, whose drawings the bottle’s logo is based on) this tequila is also one of the smoothest out there. Benefitting from a slower fermentation than most tequilas, and cooked in a volcanic rock oven, the result is a soft and easy-drinking tequila. Their Gran Maracame Plato has become a favourite. £35.95 masterofmalt.com ___ Casamigos There’s no escaping the rise of Casamigos, the tequila brand famously started by George Clooney and Rande Gerber and sold to Diageo (for a reportedly 10 figure sum). But I include this tequila as it still holds strong in its category and has played a large role in the recent tequila image revival. Their reposado has a particularly enjoyable oaky and caramel finish. £54.95 31dover.com
Papadiablo This is an industry favourite and for good reason; it’s excellent. Papadiablo, meaning ‘Pope Devil’, has a number of varieties but it was the Especial that really blew me away. A blend of four agaves and distilled in copper, the taste is complex with a sweet and smoky aftertaste. The company draws on the mystical and sacred element of mezcal, celebrating the artisanal traditions which make up the drink’s history. The result is a range of versatile mezcals, which are all too easy to drink… £73.95 thewhiskyexchange.com ___
RAICILLA Estancia Raicilla If mezcal is tequila’s cool little sister, than raicilla is their wild and fruity cousin. Pronounced “rye-see-ya” the drink has a 400-year history in Mexico and until recently was typically made in a moonshine style. Sweeter and more herbal than mezcal, the drink works well both in cocktails and sipped straight. Estancia Raicilla is light and fruity with a hint of hibiscus. I can see this having a real moment soon. £50.75 masterofmalt.com
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On the shelf
This season, there are some big beasts and slender tomes in bookshops – from a vast collection of infographics for gazing at to an engrossing narrative on some of our most familiar ingredients. Let Team CODE suggest the best reading material for autumn
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Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
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1. THE SEVEN CULINARY WONDERS OF THE WORLD
2.HAPPY FOOD
by Niklas Ekstedt & Henrik Ennart
by Jenny Linford
Linford, author of the wonderful The Missing Ingredient – a studied tome about the importance of time in food and cooking – has done it again. Her book takes seven key ingredients and examines their history, their cultural and culinary significance and sometimes even religious meaning. So if you want to really understand pork, honey, salt, chilli, rice, cacao and tomatoes, start here. This is a prettily illustrated, engrossing and practical book. £18.99, White Lion
Do you know your flavonoids from your mycotoxins, or how your gut and brain are connected? Niklas Ekstedt does, and in his international bestseller ’Happy Food,’ there are recipes that promise to elevate your mood, and fascinating context from journalist Ennart. From drinks such as lingonberry and beetroot juice, to recipes for nutritious bars – Michelin-starred Ekstedt has transformed the latest scientific findings into delicious, easy to prepare dishes with hints of his signature Scandinavian flair. £22, Absolute Press
3. BREAD & BUTTER: HISTORY, CULTURE, RECIPES
by Richard Snapes, Grant Harrington and Eve Hemingway The biggest surprise is that it’s taken so long for a book to celebrate what most of us love most – bread and butter. Snapes of the Snapery Bakery has joined forces with Ampersand Butter’s Harrington and food writer Hemingway and their joy for and knowledge of the subject is infectious. “Spread your butter so thickly that you might mistake it for cheese”, it says in one section. Happy to oblige, and to dive into the diverse and delicious-sounding recipes too. £22, Quadrille
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2. 1. 6. GREAT BRITISH CHEFS Great British Chefs hosts over 4,000 recipes on its website from a number of the biggest names from across Britain. Their first cookbook has 120 recipes from 60 chefs that they’ve worked with on their website – this publication is an homage to how the food scene has changed in Britain since 2010. We particularly like Jeremy Lee’s recipe for leg of lamb with braised celeriac, fennel and bitter leaves and Dominic Chapman’s Cambridge burnt cream. Port and Stilton truffles, though… Perhaps a recipe to test at the next CODE dinner party £25, Great British Chefs
7. FEATHERS: THE GAME LARDER by José L Souto
It’s aperitivo time thanks to drinks writer Kate Hawkings. This drinks book looks beyond the obvious cocktail recipes and focuses on the much-loved aperitif from Campari to raki. It features 30 recipes that includes Bar Termini’s marsala martini and one for a classic gin & tonic – and elegant essays on the different spirits too. £25, Merlin Unwin
5. TIME
by Gill Meller
by Sybil Kapoor
This promises ‘a new way to cook’ and doesn’t disappoint. Kapoor, a food writer of many years’ standing, has looked at food through the prism of our senses and the resulting book is highly entertaining and informative. Yes there are recipes that utilise temperature, texture, appearance and so on to really play on our eyes, ears and tongues, etc, but it’s much more than that. This book would make a brilliant title to take on a break to immerse yourself in and come back with a new view. £24, Pavilion
A new axis in canon of books on seasonal cooking: Gill Meller, of River Cottage fame, has a new title in which we have different recipes for the times of day of the times of the year. Time, in fact, is the theme and Meller’s lyrical writing - which some might find a little flowery – is in keeping with the farm-totable approach. The book has 120 brilliant recipes that celebrate our beautiful British produce and is a worthy sequel to Meller’s first book, Gather. £25, Quadrille
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4. SIGHT SMELL TOUCH TASTE SOUND
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3. 8. TOM KITCHIN’S FISH & SHELLFISH The not-so-difficult second album to Tom Kitchin’s Meat and Game last year, Fish & Shellfish should occupy a similar bible-shaped spot on your bookshelf/ kitchen top. The introduction from Tom - worth the cover price alone – is followed by techniques separated into cooking methods and by ingredient type emboldening the reader with the confidence to proceed. For those of us yet to make the pilgrimage beyond the wall to one of Tom’s restaurants, you can attempt your own Scran and Scrallie fish pie, as well as other more challenging dishes, a firm favourite being monkfish poached in red wine with tagliatelle. £26, Absolute Press -54-
9. FEAST: FOOD OF THE ISLAMIC WORLD by Anissa Helou
Sometimes, you just want the definitive version of a dish and if it’s a middle eastern dish you’re interested in, this book is invaluable. Helou’s warm, informative introductions give wonderful context to a vast array of recipes, including intriguing prospects like Persian meat and wheat ‘porridge’ and Lebanese sweet cheese ‘pie’. This is 530 pages of inspiration £45, Bloomsbury
10. FOOD AND DRINK INFOGRAPHICS by Simone Klabin & editor Julius Wiedemann
Did you know the average size of a Schüblig sausage is eight inches when straight? Or how to make vanilla ice cream like Thomas Jefferson? Perhaps you’re looking for a periodic table of proteins or would like to consult a ‘family tree’ tracing the influence of Alain Ducasse. This hefty coffee table book contains pretty much anything you could want to know about what we eat and drink, with fascinating graphics explained and elaborated upon in English, German and French. A brilliant gift; unlikely to collect dust. £50, Taschen
A classic revisited We work in an industry in thrall to the new, so sometimes old-school restaurants get neglected. Loyd Grossman returns to the north London landmark Harry Morgan
part of their rediscovered appeal in our age which perhaps has made the whole business of eating out too refined and serious. Deli flavours – salty, vinegary or sweet – are uncomplicated, in your face and without a hint of orthorexia. Authentic deli menu prose must be
high pressure and hyperbolic. So for example the menu promotes ‘Harry’s Famous Sandwiches and Bagels’, ‘Harry’s Famous Goulash’ and tells you to ‘Make sure you leave room for one of our famous desserts.’ Famous is a big word on deli menus. Following in the footsteps of Katz’s injunction to “Send a Salami to your boy in the Army’, Harry’s menu is full of jokey sloganeering: “Food without Taste is a Waste’, “Eat First Diet Later” and the overarching message ‘Come Home to Harry’s’. In the restaurant, you settle comfortably into claret leatherette banquettes and dine off of Formica -55-
topped tables. Service is swift and informal from a squad of t-shirted waiters and waitresses who may not have emerged from the shtetl, but certainly have Eastern Europe in their CVs. The food is good, sometimes very good. Unlike New York where your chopped liver or egg and onion first courses are dispensed from ice cream scoops, Harry’s have been shaped in ring moulds… probably the kitchen’s only cursory nod to MasterChef. The salt beef is excellent as is the pastrami and the ox tongue. The pickles are good, the rather generic coleslaw a letdown. There is a short wine list with a punchy Malbec that stands up well to deli food. Helpings while not of New York portions are nonetheless generous. Alas there was no room for one of the ‘famous’ desserts. Harry Morgan’s location, St John’s Wood, is real old-school neighbourhood and for a long time it’s more or less had a monopoly, but later this year Corbin and King will open their own place, which Jeremy King describes as “Colbert meets Fischer’s”, so the 70-year-old classic will have a new neighbour of its own.
Harry Morgan, 29-31 St John’s Wood High St, London NW8 7NH harryms.co.uk
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
In New York, a deli is more than just a restaurant. It has an iconic cultural status that makes it representative of so many aspects of the metropolis. It represents not just the city’s important Jewish community, but stands for the whole immigrant experience. In a city with a fetish for speed and efficiency and with little regard for genteel behaviour, the deli dispensed fast food before there were fast food restaurants and did so with a minimum of fuss and protocol: the rudeness of deli waiters was legendary. The deli’s pride in serving sandwiches and platters that were intentionally too big to finish symbolised the over abundance and prosperity of America. The Stage, The Carnegie, Katz’s, The Second Avenue Deli were well known and important to New Yorkers in the way that three star Michelin restaurants make a Parisian’s heart beat faster. In spite of London’s long established and prominent Jewish population, the London deli never quite managed to insinuate itself into the mainstream of British eating out. Excursions to Beigel Bake in Brick Lane seemed to be more of an anthropological adventure than a part of everyday dining. But new iterations of the deli theme are on the rise: the highly praised Monty’s is just about to open a second branch and pickles and salt beef feature in many a fashionable street food market. Harry Morgan, the granddaddy of London delis, celebrates its 70th birthday this year - impressive longevity for any type of London restaurant. And it does the whole deli shtick very well. Delis need to be brash and unsubtle, which is probably
24 hours in... Oaxaca by Natalie and Edson Diaz-Fuentes of Santo Remedio Oaxaca City is considered Mexico’s culinary heartland, with rich and complex moles, salsas, adobos made using ancient techniques and exotic and unusual herbs and vegetables from across the state used in its cooking. Whether in its most celebrated restaurants or one of the many vibrant markets, you’ll always be in for a treat
1pm
12am Visit Santo Domingo de Guzman
Stay at Hotel Casa Oaxaca
Right in the heart of Oaxaca City, this beautifully restored building is just spectacular. Rooms are spacious with white walls and colonial architecture. Wooden touches, terraces, library and a patio provide the perfect respite in Oaxaca’s hot weather. A beautiful kitchen where private cooking classes are available with renowned Chef Alex Ruiz from Casa Oaxaca El Restaurante. casaoaxaca.com.mx
Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
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This Baroque former monastery is a must-visit and a oasis from the hot midday Oaxaca sun. The ornate, detailed gold covered ceilings, walls and beautiful hand-painted icons can be best appreciated with a guided tour detailing the church’s colourful history.
A snack at Mercado Sanchez Pascuas
After a short stroll through the cobbled streets gazing at the colourful colonial buildings and seeing who is selling their crafts and embroidered tapestries, head to the Mercado Sanchez Pascua for some traditional Oaxacan mole tamales wrapped in banana leaves, accompanied by an ancient pre-Hispanic drink tejate, which you see the ladies on the stalls grinding ingredients and preparing in front of you. It is a mix of cacao, mamey seed, maize and cacao flowers. Food full of history and tradition.
Breakfast at Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Mexico’s markets are where you really get to know the heart and soul of the place. At this market you can try the most authentic of Mexican street food like tamales, memelas and grasshoppers; you could spend your whole 24 hours just eating here, it is so vast. Start the day here before a walk around Zocalo and Catedral with a chocolate de agua and hojaldra. Mexican style hot chocolate made with Mexican cacao, water and a hint of sugar and a traditional Oaxacan sweet roll.
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Dinner at Pitiona
With love and admiration, chef Manuel Baños reinvents dishes from his Oaxacan roots like molotes itsmeño, pork belly with coloradito, buñuelo with quesillo, among others. Like many of the city’s most famed chefs, Baños has passed through the kitchen of Alejandro Ruiz, but has developed his own unique style. Dine on the terrace overlooking the ex-Convento de Santo Domingo and enjoy traditional flavours with modern techiques and delicious mezcal cocktails. pitiona.com
One of Oaxaca’s gems, this understated old colonial house, away from the centre, is a partnership between one of Mexico’s most famed chefs, Enrique Olvera, his former head of creative projects Chef Luiz Arellano, a native of Oaxaca and the architect Javier Sanchez. Lunch is the perfect time of day to sit around the cool courtyard in the shade and sample the delightful seven-course menu of some of Oaxaca’s most simple yet refined dishes, firmly rooted in Arellano’s heritage. Flavours are fresh, light and delicate and use the finest of Oaxaca’s ingredients with tortillas and tostadas prepared on the clay comal as you enjoy your meal. criollo.mx
Buy beautiful hand woven bags, dresses and blankets as well as hand-painted arts and crafts that are bought by villagers from all over the state of Oaxaca, to be sold to visitors of this beautiful city. No doubt you will stumble across a colourful parade, procession or celebration of some sort full of music, dancing and colourful costumes.
While away the hours in this tiny Mezcaleria enjoying old style Mexican ballads by musician Jose, who is an institution and almost part of the furniture. As the Mexican saying goes, “for all good things that happen, drink mezcal. For all bad things that happen, drink mezcal too.” losamantes.com
Snack at Tlayudas Libres
7pm Snacks in the zocalo
After all that drinking, head to this street-food stall for a tlayuda, a traditional Mexican corn tostada smothered with lard, black beans, and topped with cheese and thinly sliced meat called tasajo and then folded. Una delicia!
Head to the main zocalo (square) and have Mexico’s most classic street food snack, elote: Mexican corn on the cob, cooked over charcoal and served from a bicycle cart, smothered in mayonnaise, lime, queso fresco and chilli powder. You haven’t been to Mexico until you try one of these. Drop in to one of the bars in the zocalo for a pulque, a fermented drink made from the sap of the agave plant.
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Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
Evening walk around Macedonio Alcala Street
Mezcal at Mezcaleria Los Amantes
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Lunch at Criollo restaurant
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Paradise found There are idyllic holiday spots... and then there’s the Turks & Caicos islands. The whitest sand and the bluest sea are matched by the chicest service, as Adam Hyman discovers
I can’t remember the last time I saw a postcard, let alone even received one in the post. Thanks to technology – it’s another one of those little pleasantries in life that has lost its place and been taken over by emails and social media. But if it’s a picture postcard of white beaches and turquoise waters you’re after, then Turks & Caicos needs to be on your hitlist of places to visit. I’ve been to the Caribbean a number of times but Turks and Caicos wins hands down when it comes to its beaches. The cluster of islands southeast of the Bahamas are a short flight from Miami - but there are also a handful of direct flights from London. Despite the utter shambles that is Miami Airport (thanks to the ridiculously long security queues, I nearly missed my flight), a pit stop in the Florida capital
was a nice way to start the holiday. It’s a chance to acclimatise with dinner on the terrace at Mandolin Aegean bistro and a cocktail or two at the Faena before taking a short flight to Providenciales the next morning. The first hotel I was staying at was Parrot Cay hotel. To get there you have to hop aboard the hotel’s boat from their dock in Providenciales to a private island where the hotel sits amongst thousands of acres of whitesand beaches and tropical vegetation. The 35-minute boat trip is a taster of the turquoise waters that you get to look at everyday while at Parrot Cay. The hotel lobby and one of its restaurants – The Terrace, where breakfast is served – is perched on the highest point of the estate, with farreaching views over the whitewashed wooden houses down to the pool and beach.
You come to Parrot Cay to relax. If you’re looking for nightlife and shopping, then this private island is not for you. I found myself switching off very easily – not constantly looking at emails but instead spending much of the day looking into the turquoise seas from a sun lounger with an icecold glass of Minuty rosé. Lunchtimes are spent by the pool bar – perching around the u-shaped bar at the beach hut restaurant eating fresh fish tacos and drinking more rosé before returning to the beach for a snooze in the shade. If you’re inclined to do some exercise, the gym at Parrot Cay is very well equipped – with regular classes held in the mornings – along with complimentary yoga and pilates in a pavilion. For those wanting to stretch their legs outside, there’s a short running circuit that cuts through part
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of the island and is a beautiful way to start the day – but be sure to go early before the sun gets too hot. Out of the two restaurants, my favourite was Lotus: the menu had an Asian twist and, in the cooler evening climes when the sun had gone down, it was a stunning setting to sit around the torch lit terrace overlooking the swimming pool. The fresh sea air and the feeling of being so relaxed meant bedtime was before 10pm most nights – a true luxury. ***
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Amanyara sunscreen was not only a nice addition but a handy one. Mornings on the beach – with regular dips in the bath-like sea – were followed by lazy lunches of salads and sushi at the Beach Club restaurant before retiring to the pool. But one of the most magical parts of the day was going back to the room and cracking open a cold local beer from the complimentary mini bar and going into the sea of our private beach to watch the sunset. It doesn’t get much better than that. Adam Hyman was a guest at Parrot Cay and Amanyara Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
Back on Providenciales, up on the western shore stands Amanyara. Despite being on the main island, Amanyara’s location is still remote. Like Parrot Cay, you come here to stay close and switch off. This was the first time that I’ve ever stayed at an Aman hotel – and it’s a little like the first time you fly business class: you never want to have to turn right again on a plane. From the welcome, the attention to detail and the service meant it was hard to fault the Aman experience and their approach to hospitality.
Staying in an ocean pavilion, tucked away down a private path, there’s no issue with privacy at Amanyara. I’ve no doubt some people never even leave the cocoon of their little bit of paradise and don’t venture to the public areas of the hotel – relying on room service and the use of their own private beach. Despite the hotel being more than 10 years old, the interiors of the property have not dated in style. The lobby, library, bar and restaurant – all decked out in dark wood and open plan - are each placed around a striking central water feature. The serenity and quietness at Amanyara is one of my lasting memories of the place. The hotel was busy when I was there, but it still felt like we were the only guests. Guests cycle around the property, making it fun (and quiet) to get around, even though the fact Amanyara is spread out. The main beach has to be one of the prettiest stretches of white sand and turquoise sea that I’ve ever seen. Attendants are on hand to set up sun loungers and constantly make sure cold water is always topped up; the added touch of
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Instagrab What’s captured the imaginations (and social media feeds) of diners this season? It’s very autumnal, with a bountiful crop of corn ribs from ROVI, plus grouse from all over the place (are there any left in the skies?). Meanwhile in carb corner we have moreish savoury crumpets – a Cornerstone classic – and the rise of katsu sandwiches all over London
Staff meal Issue 16 | Autumn 2018 | codehospitality.co.uk
Indo-Chinese ‘chilli chicken’ What do you eat when you get home after service? Karan Gokani of Hoppers shares his recipe ___ Indo-Chinese ‘Chilli Chicken’ is undoubtedly one of our most popular staff meals at Hoppers, and often my go-to dish after a busy service. Inspired by the ‘Chinese’ hawker stalls all over the subcontinent, this is a version we have created at the restaurant fusing together the popular chilli chicken found on the streets of Bombay (where I grew up) and Chicken 65 – that iconic dish found in Kerala (where a lot of our chefs grew up).
Ingredients 4 large boneless and skinless chicken breast or thighs, cut into large chunks 3-4 tbsp rapeseed or sunflower oil 6 dried red chillies (preferably kashmiri) ½ tsp ginger paste ½ tsp garlic paste ½ tsp black pepper powder 2.5 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp cornflour 1 tbsp ginger, chopped 1 tbsp garlic, chopped 2 medium brown onions, cubed 1-2 large green banana chillies, deseeded (alternatively ½ green bell pepper cubed) 1 tbsp tomato ketchup 1 tsp cider vinegar (to taste) 2 green chillies, split down the centre (preferably Indian finger chillies) 2 sprigs fresh curry leaves (optional, but highly recommended) ½ tsp sugar (optional, to taste) 2 spring onions, finely chopped 2 tbsp coriander leaves, finely chopped
Method 1. Deseed and soak the chillies in water and set aside for half an hour. Once soaked, remove the chillies and blitz to a paste with ½ a cup of water. 2. Marinate the chicken in the ginger and garlic paste, black pepper, 1 tbsp soy sauce and a generous pinch of salt and set aside for half an hour. Once complete add the cornflour to the chicken and coat well. 3. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large wok until it is piping hot and then add in the chicken. Swirl the pan well to coat the chicken but do not stir yet. After 20 seconds flip the pieces over and continue frying, flipping the chicken every now and then. Once the chicken has cooked for about 4 minutes transfer to a bowl and set aside.
4. Add the remaining oil to the wok and once hot, toss in the chopped ginger and garlic. Fry for 15-20 seconds until light brown but not burnt and add the onions and green banana chillies. Stir fry for a minute and add back the chicken and remaining ingredients (except the chopped coriander and spring onions). Add a quarter cup of water and continue to cook for 3-4 minutes until everything is glossy and coated in the silky sauce. 5. Garnish with spring onions and coriander and eat immediately. Enjoy this moreish chicken dish with some plain steamed white rice or a quick cumin egg fried rice. Use a standard egg fried rice recipe but add some cumin seeds, chopped garlic and ginger in the oil and brown for a minute before adding in the rice.
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