San Diego’s
Desert spring Next time someone kids you that San Diego has no seasons, show them spring in our Anza-Borrego desert — it’s no joke!
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hen transplants to San Diego say they miss the seasons, what they usually mean is autumn leaves and an excuse to wear pretty winter clothes. But you almost never hear them lamenting the loss of spring — it can often seem like spring all year here, especially near the coast, so you might not even notice the season change. But farther inland, every year unleashes a remarkable spring like nowhere else. Just east of the Laguna Mountains lies the Anza-Borrego desert, the rugged setting for our region’s prized springtime transformation, an explosion of surprising life and raucous color. The experience of nature at her most performative is well worth the drive from coastal and metro communities. With a little planning, you can enjoy these wonders with a day trip or weekend getaway — check out Know Before You Go at the end for a list of all links and digits. Meanwhile, let’s take a look at what you’re getting yourself into!
What’s out there, anyway? With almost 600,000 acres, Anza-Borrego Desert State Park is California’s largest state park, comprising an entire fifth of San Diego County and offering far more attractions than you can bag in a single trip (unless it’s a one-way trip involving a moving van).
The park straddles an active tectonic rift zone where the North American and Pacific plates compete, a history writ large in the area’s visible geology. Twisted layers of ancient ocean floors just high above alluvial fans, carved into dramatic shapes by long ages of harsh weather. The desert’s low rainfall means much of its flora lies dormant until bumper seasons, and life in general crowds around any source of water.
What should we do? The acknowledged superstar event of the desert spring is its wildflower bloom, when dormant desert plants revive with the singular mission to reproduce fast and madly before the heat of summer drives sane plants back into dormancy. Even after a lowrainfall winter like this year’s, March and April will prompt an abundance of flowers to emerge in their timeless race to seed future generations. And while superbloom years can practically hide the desert floor in a brilliant sprawl of jumbled patchwork, normal bloom years can be just as striking by framing each shock of color in context of the harsh landscape. The bloom attracts thousands of visitors. At its height, visitors can utterly clog local roads and overwhelm lodging. Your best bet is to start early in the morning — when dawn sees slackers still sleeping and natural light
Start at the heart If it’s your first visit, getting the most out of your trip will probably include a stop at the park’s visitor center on the edge of Borrego Springs, a laidback town which serves as the gateway for most of its many visitors’ adventures. Spring is high season for the town, so plan well ahead if you’re interested in booking lodging, tours, or dinner reservations there.
at its most flattering — and retreat to your campsite or resort in time to avoid getting trapped in the background of eight thousand Instagram posts. You may also have luck seeking out more secluded parts of the park, far from the tourist center; a little sleuthing online or a few phone calls to park HQ and other locals will turn up a number of favorite “off the beaten path” spots. Spring also summons bird enthusiasts, who flock to watering holes and canyons seeking familiar desert birds and the many migratory birds who drop by for a quick sip. Common native sightings include hummingbird, hawk, golden eagle, and even the local favorite, roadrunner, and the list explodes when you include migrating birds. Those same sources of water also attract terrestrial wildlife, including kangaroo rat, toad, desert tortoise, jackrabbit, kit fox, coyote, deer, bobcat, mountain lion, and the park’s namesake borrego, or bighorn sheep. Check the Anza-Borrego Desert Natural History Association website for location tips, events, and more resources to spot critters. Anza-Borrego is also an adventure destination, and spring is a favorite time to enjoy hiking, rock climbing, horseback riding, off-roading, and some sick mountain biking. The park is dotted with day use areas and campgrounds — most, like Culp Valley for climbers, are ideally situated base camps for certain activities — and also allows dispersed camping for conscientious visitors who prefer to choose their own adventure. To really cap off your day, stick around for the evening sky. Besides having a front-row seat to often awe-inspiring desert sunsets, Anza-Borrego is one of the best places for stargazing. Dry air, a natural basin that blocks city light pollution, and sparse population work together to create an internationally acclaimed dark night sky, offering a clear view deep into the heavens. Book a night sky tour, bring your own telescope, or just roll out a blanket to lay back and enjoy the natural show.
As of February 2021, the visitor center itself is closed, but the location will be staffed Thursday through Sunday to provide information and brochures. The volunteers can be an indispensable source of firsthand knowledge about the park and current attractions, but you can also find all the official information, most of the publications, and even current conditions online before you even leave your home — a must if you’re planning to visit during peak wildflower season. Additional resources are available through the Borrego Springs Chamber of Commerce website. Visit the park’s official website and scrutinize, skim, or scroll past the long COVID updates to get to the most practical information. DO click on road conditions, local conditions, and the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park Magazine Online, a hidden gem that’s slightly out of date but nonetheless the single most complete source of information and planning guide for would-be visitors. For updates and latest information, the park recommends watching their social media and/or phoning the friendly staff at their main office, who are eager and happy to help you get the most out of your park experience.
Anza-Borrego Desert SP: parks.ca.gov/anzaborrego FB: facebook.com/AnzaBorrego IG: @anzaborregodesertsp Office: 760.767.5311 Wildflower hotline: 760.767.4684
Borrego Springs Chamber of Commerce : borregospringschamber.com 760.767.5555 Anza-Borrego Natural History Association: abdnha.org
Spring’s a great time to turn over a new leaf. Whether you’re looking to clean up your nest or seek out a better one, ask your favorite REALTOR® to help you see things in a fresh light!
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