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7 minute read
22 Years of Myths, Legends, Rumors and Pies
The quiet coastal community of Malibu was rocked on the morning of November 16, as the harsh devil winds swirled with the news that Malibu Kitchen would be closing its doors for good on December 4.
Rumors were confirmed in an official announcement by a teaser on the webpage for Spike Feresten's "Spike's Car Radio" podcast.
"Spike has an exclusive story sure to send shock-waves through the SoCal car community: The Malibu Kitchen is closing after 22 years," the announcement said. "The guys reflect on over two decades of driving and hanging with Bill Miller at the world-famous Malibu eatery."
Clicking the show to life, Spike's Car Radio began with a few bars of Frank Sinatra's "Fly Me to the Moon," and then Feresten and his co-hosts went into detail on the who, what, where, when, and why.
"What's better than Frank Sinatra?" Feresten began with a heavy sigh. "And we're playing him because we have news … breaking news on the show ... This is music our good friend Bill at Malibu Kitchen played. Zuckerman, you might not know about this, but Jerry and I were out there having breakfast just a few days ago, and Bill told us … he's done. He's throwing in the towel. He's leaving Malibu Country Mart 22 years to the day of his opening. This is his goodbye. We're very upset.
"You know we can't say we didn't see it coming. Bill … even before the pandemic Bill was like … you know he said to us, 'I don't know how much longer I'm going to be doing this.' You know, and a year ago, maybe nine months ago, before we started the movie, he said, 'You know I'd probably be ending this thing now if you guys weren't making that movie. I want to be around ... I know Jerry's going to be out here and you guys are going to come to dinner a lot. So… I'm really staying open until you guys finish.'
"We thought he was just kidding. Apparently not. This thing is over. It's done. I think December 4 is the day. Bill clarified that is when the doors close on Christmas Eve, but the shop is going to close on the fourth."
In 2000, Miller brought the East Coast, New York charm to the West Coast in the form of H and H bagels, breakfast pastries, delicious sandwiches, and service that some compared to "Seinfeld's" Soup Nazi or Dick's Last Resort.
But that was part of the charm of Malibu Kitchen, along with all those blue skies, the view of the empty mountains, and the endless parade of exquisite, expensive cars that were attracted to Malibu Kitchen by the presence of Jerry Seinfeld, Spike Feresten, Jay Leno and other renowned gearheads from near and far.
BY BEN MARCUS
Malibu Kitchen became a mecca for gearheads, and during the summer of 2022, the Sunday parking lot was loaded with fine cars, old and new, from 1950s MGAs to Bugatti Chirons and everything in between. The sound and fury and smoke of these car shows inspired some Malibu residents to dub it "Valibu." By the end of summer, it was all shut down.
And now Malibu Kitchen is shutting down.
Some of the regulars arriving at Malibu Kitchen for the Tuesday coffee klatch were shaken by the news.
"This is a very sad day. Malibu Kitchen is the last bastion of authentic Malibu 'charm' and lore," said Gary Bushnell. "Malibu Cinemas, old Nobu, La Scala, Alice's, Dume Room, How's Market, PC Greens to name just a few ... now replaced with mega-dollar, corporate s***shows offering all the comfort and homeyness of the Las Vegas strip. Would have been nice if Jerry S could have peeled a few bills off his stack (ala Irving Azoff) in the name of preservation."
Jefferson "Zuma Jay" Wagner remembered Malibu Kitchen going back to the time it was Mary's Kitchen.
"I enjoyed the scrambled egg with salmon pieces and tomato for years," he said. "The cookies were as huge as my smile! Recently it got a little pricey for lowball surfers, also known as me, but the quality is always splendid!"
Responding from Beverly Hills, where she is now gainfully employed as an attorney and counselor, Alexandra Sagona Esq. was one of many Pepperdine coeds who worked at Malibu Kitchen to help pay some of the expenses of making it through the college on a hill. Sagona worked at Malibu Kitchen while she toiled through law school but she made it.
"Working at Malibu Kitchen was being a part of an amazing, crazy family," Sagona said. "Bill and Judith are some of the best people I've ever had the pleasure of knowing. MK will be forever missed."
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Malibu Kitchen estate sale stirs memories
It was a gloomy, rainy December weekend for Malibu Kitchen to hold an estate sale: 22 years of tchotchkes, machines, rock and roll photos, Rocco art, chairs, tables and signs, signs everywhere signs. The line at the door at 11 a.m. Saturday was reminiscent of the line out the door of Malibu Kitchen on a typical weekend day when it was open for business.
There wasn't quite a Black Friday ugly riot, but people did clamor a bit to get in and buy a piece of history.
Disciples and devotees entering and leaving were asked to give their memories of Malibu Kitchen and what they would miss most. One of those people was Sean Cummings, a hotelier/restaurateur/raconteur/bon vivant and according to his bio “...developer of real estate, commerce, the arts, and New Orleans' future” who owns the International Hotel, Loft 253 and a number of other properties in a city that has suffered as many or more meteorological slings and arrows as Malibu.
Cummings regularly comes to Malibu and rolls a Porsche as he soaks up that warm California sun on Malibu Road. He knows Malibu Kitchen well and after reading some of the responses he gave this Acadian angle on the joint, summing up Malibu Kitchen as a “great good place.”
"I was a Hurricane Katrina refugee [2005] when I first stepped into Malibu Kitchen. Judith told me all about their pies and some memory-making trip to New Orleans. Bill seemed to think it was all my fault. But I came back every Thanksgiving and in the last five years much more often. Enough to appreciate that what Bill and Judith and Benny and Suzy had created was a local gathering place — like Ray Oldenburg's book of the same title — "The Great Good Place."
The idea was to transform guests back in time to a neighborhood little market with all the paraphernalia and tchotchkes on the walls and the signs.
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"Such places always have three things in common: low turnover, longtime staff, and local regulars who come there daily or several times a week and some visitors. After a few bites and sips, the secret is conversation. For in them, visitors start to navigate the town's ways and locals are reminded why they love and choose to live here.
"I'll miss Suzy and Benny, those extraordinary pies, golden retrievers and most of all the marvelous mosaic of humanity that coursed through the door each day, particularly AC and B, among the terrific cast of characters drawn to Malibu Kitchen and who found an unexpected sense of community and belonging in each other."
‘What will you miss most about Malibu Kitchen?’
Malcolm Jenkins Bedouin philosopher: “The vibe, employees, food. One of the last authentic stores in Bu. Another hole in the heart of Malibu.”
John Ortiz Technician at JCOtechnologies.com: “I’m going to miss the food. The meatloaf sandwiches. And I’m going to miss Bill chasing people out of the store for being pretentious.”
Christopher Tompkins (34), owner of Broad Street Oyster: “I think I’m going to miss the chocolate chip cookies the most — definitely the camaraderie and the taste of home.”
Zefferino Ruiz (48), chef de cuisine, Culver City: “I will miss the customers — the food. Favorite food? Everything. Where am I going after this? Taverna Tony.”
Cathy Goodman, counter gal, bon vivant: “I’ll miss baking for everybody and making their tummies really happy. My favorite food is my fudge brownies. I’ll miss all the local Malibu characters always coming in. It makes the day very interesting.”
Mo Satarzadeh, photographer and car enthusiast mophotodesign.com: " The people. Honestly. As much as I love the coffee and all that other stuff. Scones, especially. I’m gonna miss Suzy and Bill and Judith and Zeff. All of them, man. It’s a loss for the community, for sure. Just because this is one of the last places that has the Malibu vibe, in a sense. Yeah, it’s a bummer; that’s what it is. That’s life."
Rick Loehr, owner of Malibu Cigar, Malibu: “First, Bill. Love Bill. Second, the Chinese Chicken Salad, and the bagels, of course. And the tuna. The best.”
Lani Netter (66), artist, writer, historian, Christian, Malibu my whole life: “Love Malibu Kitchen. Been here since they opened. Love Suzy and Bill, and Judith, and appreciate all the years of serving Malibu. I think I’m going to miss the meatloaf most. And that arugula salad with goat cheese.”
Alex Kluft (31), rock and roll photographer alexkluft.com: “It’s iconic. Everything about it is iconic. I don’t know what else to say. Everything. The furniture. Everything inside. The corned beef. Also, the people hanging out on the bench and chatting. All the great people you saw come in here.”
Sally Dibaei, artist sallydibaei.artcall.org: “I’m going to miss their cookies and their food, and their presence here. They were so cozy and comforting and nice. Always inviting.”
John Mazza (77), collector, protector, city official: “The fact that we’re losing one of the last things, that’s Malibu. So.. chain stores, tourists. We’re not gonna have anything left. GET MORE? FOOD?”
Jeff Slutske (50), deputy sheriff, Thousand Oaks: “I’m going to miss Bill and Judith, and I think Bill especially. The personality and everything about it and how he treats everyone equally and just … everything. It’s become a staple of Malibu, and it sucks that it’s going.”