Sip & Savor — Exploring the Enclaves

| Exploring the Enclaves T he Back Roads Wineries of Paso Robles are just that, boutique wineries tucked away along the back roads of east side Paso Robles. Perhaps the region’s most beautiful terrain, lined with miles of running fences, acres of well-manicured hillside vineyards and expansive ranches inhabited by longhorns, sheep and horses. While most of the wineries are located along the four main arteries — Linne Road, Union Road, Creston Road and El Pomar Road, there are many ensconced along hidden country roads.

This enclave, touching the districts of Templeton Gap, El Pomar, Geneseo and Creston, reflects the full diversity of Paso. This means both Rhône and Bordeaux-style wines are produced in this region, with cabernet sauvignon taking the lead. However, there’s pinot noir growing in a sweet spot of Sculpterra Winery’s vineyard and chardonnay at Still Waters Vineyards. In the southern part of Templeton Gap District, Chris Ferrara, founder of Italian-focused Clesi Winery, has planted five acres to sangiovese and montepulciano.

A hidden gem in the Creston District is Aleksander Wine whose impressive Bordeaux-style wines are a rare find in Paso. The two merlot-driven blends can rival those of Bordeaux’s Right Bank. Owner Goran Bjekovic crafts his wines from the 30-acre estate vineyard planted predominantly to merlot. The wines are structurally balanced — ringing with black fruit aromas and bracing minerality, they are muscle-flexing yet elegant in an Old-World style with seamless tannins and velvety finish. Add to this an unforgettable tasting experience (by appointment only) hosted by Goran and wife Ksenija in a gorgeous salon where you savor home-made Slovenian charcuterie paired with their wines. This is wine tasting at its best.

Further up, amidst the rolling hills of Creston, Chateau Margene is located on the old Huer Huero Mexican land grant. Founders Mike and Margene Moony produce complex Bordeaux-style wines from their estate vineyards and superb pinot noir sourced from Santa Lucia Highlands. At Still Waters Vineyards, some 14 varieties are planted on the spectacular hillside ranch, dotted with 130-year old trees. It’s predominantly cabernet sauvignon and merlot produced here with petite sirah sprinkled in most blends for an added depth.

While there are dozens of wineries in this enclave, some 30 winemakers have formed the Back Roads Wineries group that hosts several events annually. The upcoming spring event will take place at Cass Winery on April 4.

“I had to scrape to find 13 wineries,” mused Steve Cass who was instrumental in the group’s formation. “Now there are 30.”

Cass Winery is located in Geneseo’s warm district, with soil composition of clay loam and alluvial. As in other parts of Paso, both Rhône and Bordeaux-style varieties do well here, Cass noted. “Rhône whites are perfectly happy,” said Cass, known for his viognier and roussanne wines plus syrah, cabernet sauvignon and bodacious Rhône blends, all savored with Cass Cafe’s wine country cuisine.

Cass offers an Adult Summer Camp, an immersive wine country experience at its 145-acre ranch, offering farm and garden education, cooking classes, wine blending sessions, horse riding and lodging at Geneseo Inn — an eight-unit B&B constructed out of recycled shipping containers.

Nearby, Sculpterra Winery & Sculpture Garden has much to offer, with an abundance of giant metal and stone sculptures, historical panels of Paso history, a gazebo and exquisite gardens. More visual feast abounds indoors where you can taste from a portfolio of some 20 wines — a tropical viognier, an earthy pinot noir, a smoky primitivo or the powerful Bentley Ironworks cabernet sauvignon.

A collaboration between two noted winemakers, Andrew Jones and Curt Schalchlin, the Fableist Wine Co. has a wonderful story to tell not only with its catchy labels inspired by Aesop’s fables but the tasting experience conducted in the historic home. There’s no single tasting counter; a sit-down tasting is offered in one of the many cozy rooms. “It’s what Paso is all about, pick a room to taste in,” said Schalchlin. The portfolio of well-structured wines ranges from cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir to chardonnay and zinfandel, sourced from noted vineyards in Paso and along the Central Coast — all priced at $20 per bottle.

Further up, Bovino’s panoramic 83-acre hillside ranch offers a range of 12 wines, under two labels — Joludi and gen-er-os-i-ty. Talk about diversity, here you can taste from albariño and arneis to zinfandel, with a lineup that also includes grenache, sangiovese, tempranillo and Bordeaux-style blends. On weekends, the scenic deck is filled with visitors savoring Chef Jeff Puckett’s culinary delights prepared from locally sourced ingredients at Cafe Bovino.

Tucked along a dirt road, the gated hilltop Ambyth estate is Paso’s first and only Demeter-certified biodynamic winery that was founded by Phillip and Mary Hart in 2000. The uphill drive is flanked by dry-farmed vineyards and olive trees, with cattle, sheep, llamas and chickens on the range of this panoramic hillside. The hallmark here is low-alcohol wines with minimal intervention and aged in terra-cotta amphorae. The focus is on Rhône style wines, with some tempranillo, zinfandel and cabernet sauvignon.

The new arrival of 7 Angels Cellars in Templeton is drawing enophiles to its bold and complex Rhône-style blends and deep-hued, age-worthy petite sirah. The white wine line up of viognier and grenache blanc is deliciously refreshing.

And for a palate refresher, there’s no place like Rava Wines, Paso’s first winery to focus on Méthode Champenoise process of crafting sparkling wines. The menu includes a range of six sparkling wines produced from chardonnay, pinot noir, albariño and grüner veltliner.

For more information, visit backroadwineries.com. THE BACK ROADS WINERIES OF Paso Robles