Columbus Monthly - Best Driving Vacations 2021 by The Columbus Dispatch/Dispatch Magazines

B E S T D R I V I N G VAC AT I O N S

ESCAPE A beachside getaway or trip to wine country never sounded so good. Everyone wants an escape right now, to literally get away from a stir-crazy 2020. The destinations in this year’s Best Driving Vacations—from the vineyards of Michigan to the foothills of North Carolina— tap into that desire. They’re outdoorsy and less dense, and therefore less risky. Vaccines should help travel rebound in the months ahead, and though some may feel uncomfortable taking a trip for a while, it’s never too early to begin planning. These stories offer guidance. Plus, they serve another purpose: They’re a means of escape in their own right.

PHOTO: TONY DEMIN

EDITED BY CHRIS GAITTEN

Sunset at Ciccone Vineyard & Winery on Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula FEBRUARY 2021 COLUMBUS MONTHLY

B E S T D R I V I N G VAC AT I O N S

N E W H A R M O N Y, I N

Harmonist Labyrinth

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The Road to Utopia With its unique past and an idealistic spirit, New Harmony is a creative, meditative oasis in southwestern Indiana. BY KEVIN J. ELLIOTT

PHOTO: KEVIN J. ELLIOTT

fter a difficult, homebound year, the and pay respects to his mother, Nancy Hanks, idea of jumping in the car and takwho is buried there. Not far from I-65 is the ing a journey to the unknown, some oddly named Santa Claus, Indiana, a town that unexplored destination, is more appealing than revels in Christmas year-round, with statues of ever. And though traveling through the empty, its namesake, Christmas outlets and the Holiday flat wilds of southern Indiana may not sound World theme park. That seasonal attraction also like much of a getaway, once you pull into the has sections dedicated to Halloween, Thanksgivtiny village of New Harmoing and the Fourth of July. ny, you’ll be drawn to the Ride the indoor, black-lit town’s minimalist charms, N E W H A R M O N Y , I N Gobbler Getaway roller modest but pretty houses coaster if you dare. and utopian past. Five hours after you set The road to the far corner out from Columbus, or of southwest Indiana, near much longer depending on the Illinois border, is long your meanderings, you’ll and seemingly uneventful, arrive in New Harmony, but it offers off-the-beatennestled into the banks of path curiosities should you the Wabash River. The know where to look. While town offers an abundance New Harmony itself is not of unique and unexpected known as a foodie destinasites: Make it a priority to see 341 miles away | 5-hour drive tion (unless of course you’d the modernist architecture like to try a pig brain sandof the town’s towering Athwich, which is served with a tasty Harmonie Dark enaeum and the Roofless Church, a landmark Lager at the Yellow Tavern), you should route that could double as an abandoned UFO in an yourself to one of the many meccas of the state’s empty field. It stands across the street from the culinary secret dish, namely Southeast Indiana’s Harmonist Granary, a structure that served as home-fried chicken. Cooked in a skillet of lard the economic catalyst of the settlement a century and flavored heavily with black pepper and salt, ago. The flux between old and new is seamless, the region’s fried chicken can be found in several and in many ways provides equilibrium. locations, each with its own homespun character “I felt like my blood pressure had gone down and passed-down family recipes. Popular opinion and my pulse had slowed when I first arrived,” appears to favor St. Leon Tavern in West Harrison, says Mary Beth Guard, New Harmony’s official just past Cincinnati, as king of the coop. Also worth tourism ambassador. “I had never been anyyour time: a stop in Brookville to visit the Dairy where that had this kind of tranquility oozing Cottage, or Oldenburg to bear witness to Wagner’s out of it. Everywhere you look is something Village Inn, or Enochsburg to try the Fireside Inn. interesting or beautiful. There’s a different pace From there, head southwest. Sports fans of life here. The streets are perfect—there’s not might want to make a detour to French Lick, even a pothole in New Harmony. Life is easy.” home of basketball legend Larry Bird, perhaps the most renowned Hoosier. There you can sip The search for utopia was an endless pursuit for on Pluto Water, the mineral-rich natural laxative many in 19th-century America. The rise in egalpopular in the early 20th century, at one of the itarianism and religious fanaticism converged world-famous resorts. Or just grab lunch at 33 with western expansion, and soon any dreamer Brick Street, where the staff will let you try on with a communal spirit and a spot on the map Bird’s 1992 Olympic Dream Team jacket and lift could build utopia from the ground up. one of his NBA MVP trophies in triumph. German immigrant George Rapp and his flock Farther west, history buffs can visit the boyof Lutheran separatists—the Harmonists—first hood home of Abraham Lincoln in Lincoln City arrived in New Harmony in 1814 to build a society FEBRUARY 2021 COLUMBUS MONTHLY

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Cathedral Labyrinth Athenaeum

is the immaculate Harmonist Labyrinth, a mammoth hedge maze designed and planted by the town’s founders in 1814 as a place for inward contemplation. If those early citizens had a problem, it’s there they would reflect on solutions. Take an hour or so to put away your screens and walk its winding path to center yourself at the start of your visit. “Life is so busy these days that people don’t take time to do that,” says Guard. Her many tips for visiting the town often come back to just changing your pace when you explore. The good news: New Harmony is entirely walkable. You may even get to use a local’s golf cart should you pick the right Airbnb. At the Workingman’s Institute, a massive brick building at the center of town where Warrum works on Tuesdays, you’ll find collections of insects, shells and rocks, evidence that William McClure, Owen’s benefactor, intended for New Harmony to rise as some kind of scientific Eden. It was there that he introduced laborers to the

W H E R E TO S TAY You won’t find any hotel chains within several miles of New Harmony—the closest metro area is Evansville, about 30 minutes east of the village. Though the New Harmony Inn and Conference Center, adjacent to the quaint Red Geranium Restaurant, is your safest bet, there are several bed-and-breakfasts and guest houses that truly make you feel like a local. A.C. Thomas House B&B acthomashouse.com Cook’s on Brewery B&B cooksonbrewery.com Granary Street Guest House facebook.com/granarystreetguesthouse Leather Leaf Inn B&B leatherleafinn.com Ludwig Epple Guest House newharmonyguesthouse.com The Old Rooming House oldroominghouse.com

PHOTOS: CLOCKWISE, TOP LEFT, MARY BETH GUARD; COURTESY VISIT NEW HARMONY; KEVIN J. ELLIOTT (2); MARY BETH GUARD

fit for when Christ returned to Earth. In the Harmonists’ decade there, they constructed over 180 buildings that reflected their highly industrial vision. They had a brewery, a distillery, textile manufacturing, a school, a store—all in the name of communal grace. When the savior didn’t return by the prophesied date in 1824, and idle hands became their downfall, Rapp sold the town and the Harmonists moved back to Pennsylvania. Their utopia failed, but they wouldn’t be the only ones to try. Robert Owen, a wealthy Scottish social reformer with grand visions of a “new moral world,” purchased the readymade town from Rapp with the hope of constructing a massive settlement where a socialist community would thrive. Since he figured he had everything he needed in New Harmony to launch his utopia, he quickly recruited followers to make the arduous pilgrimage from the East Coast. The “Boatload of Knowledge,” as his vessel was called, carried artists, educators, naturalists and philosophers eager to begin the noble experiment, including the father of American entomology, Thomas Say, and noted publisher and abolitionist Frances Wright. The enlightened ideals of his utopia were set in motion, but by the time Owen returned from a trip back to Europe in 1826, the dream had ended before it even started. “There was a real struggle,” says Linda Warrum. “These people who came with Owen with the knowledge were sitting around wondering who would plow the fields. There wasn’t enough of a diversified group. To have a utopian society, you have to have all of your bases covered, and there were just not enough people doing the actual work you need to function.” When you visit New Harmony, you’d be remiss to pass up chatting with Warrum, who is regarded as the town’s preeminent historical interpreter. For 20 years now, she’s been taking tourists through town on a golf cart junket every day at noon. Her outing is indispensable. Not only does it highlight many of the 25 remaining structures built by the original Harmonists, she goes into great detail about the Owenites, who, despite their failure, actually made New Harmony the “Athens of the Frontier.” Stopping during her tour at the Oculus, a giant camera obscura built by University of Indiana students inside a threadbare Harmonist cabin, one can easily grasp why this is a perfect example of utopian threads woven through generations. But the first thing you’ll want to see upon arrival on a spring or summer day

Harmonist cabins

Roofless Church

Gennett Records Walk of Fame

muses, education and technical training, but also encouraged outside thinkers to come and use the village as a natural laboratory. Warrum insists there is no other Workingman’s Institute in the country. In many ways, it became a practical manifestation of the high-minded, elusive paradise and has helped keep the town alive. When you come to New Harmony in 2021, you’ll find not much has changed since the days of Owen. Sure, you can now get coffee in the Twin Peaks-inspired Black Lodge or take a cooking class at the newly minted Caper’s Emporium co-op, but you can still roam the streets undisturbed and literally stop and smell the flowers. You should smell the peonies in particular because they have continued New Harmony’s unique development and freewheeling spirit. Jane Owen arrived after marrying into the remaining Owen family in 1941. After learning of the town’s history, she started Fragrant Farms, a successful peony field to the south, and as a preservationist and philanthropist she became the champion for New Harmony’s rebirth. She’s responsible for the aforementioned Athenaeum and the Roofless Church, institutions that have attracted utopian-minded artists and thinkers ever since. Both stand as striking modernist structures in contrast to the simple homes and cabins of the town’s pioneer past. Designed and built in 1979 by famed architect Robert Meier, the Athenaeum serves as the tourist hub, with a small history museum and a path that leads to an observation deck overlooking the river and town. The Roofless Church, completed in 1960 by Phillip Johnson, welcomes the faithful from all denominations. Jane Owen also helped create the Cathedral Labyrinth, an inlaid stone maze that mirrors the original Harmonists’ zeal for meditation. In fact, you’ll notice the labyrinth design in just about every corner of town, as it’s become the ubiquitous symbol of New Harmony. It seems all but inevitable that there will soon be a statue of the late Owen overlooking the antique shops and tiny art galleries of downtown. She has, after all, helped to maintain the utopian spirit. While the bulk of the town’s early idealism was discarded when those visions proved to be folly, New Harmony has survived by knowing its past and projecting that into its future. On the lawn of the Athenaeum there’s a grafted Tree of 40 Fruits, one of several such creations nationwide, designed by a Syracuse University professor. They’re equal parts art

MAGIC IN THE WOODS The entirety of New Harmony’s attractions can be done in a day, but that ignores the natural wonder surrounding the town that drew the original settlers. Mary Beth Guard enthusiastically suggests the “magical experience” that is the Firefly Theater in the spring and summer. Tucked away in the nearby woods, it becomes a glowing field once the titular insects illuminate the expanse all the way up to the 50-foot trees. The locals swear they react best to the sound of Pink Floyd’s “Breathe.” You can camp in the village’s Murphy Park, but nearby Harmony State Park is one of the finest sites in all of Indiana and allows easy access to canoeing and kayaking on the Wabash. New Harmony is also close to Bull Island, the weird wasteland on an Illinois peninsula that was home to the disastrous Erie Canal Pop Festival in 1972, infamous as the Fyre Festival of its day.

and agriculture, emblematic of where the prospect of enlightened thinking can take us. On the way home, it’s easy to head northeast and take I-70 back to Columbus. If you’re feeling adventurous you can visit the sites of Bloomington, a slightly larger bohemian enclave of Indiana, with breweries, excellent eateries and the Slocum Mechanical Puzzle Collection at Indiana University. You could also shoot hoops at the gym where the movie “Hoosiers” was filmed in Knightstown, and for that matter, you may as well visit the Indiana Basketball Hall of Fame in New Castle. But the best stop is the Gennett Records Walk of Fame in Richmond. Once a hub of piano manufacturing, the site was eventually an epicenter of analog recording in the early part of the 20th century, making records for Louis Armstrong, Duke Ellington and Jelly Roll Morton. The piano factory and studio are gone, but the walk along the Whitewater River is embedded with tributes to many artists who got their start there. It’s also a good place to contemplate the journey throughout Indiana and the exploration of New Harmony. Though we may never find utopia, it’s satisfying to know you can jump in your car and get close. Kevin J. Elliott is a high school English teacher and travel writer. When he’s not exploring odd locations, graveyards and historical sites, he enjoys hiking, subversive books and pinball. FEBRUARY 2021 COLUMBUS MONTHLY

Peace in the Piedmont Plentiful, delicious dining, a vibrant cultural scene and outdoor fun are set against the backdrop of beautiful, mountainous landscapes in Winston-Salem.

BY LAURA ARENSCHIELD

n the foothills of the North Carolina mountains, just before you hit wine country and a mere four hours from the beach, is Winston-Salem, a city of art and food and easy access to the natural wonders of the region’s terrain. “Winston just has something magical about it,” says Cary Clifford, founding co-owner of Camino Bakery, a downtown staple. “It has a small-town feel, but it’s urbane in so many ways, too. It can be hard to explain.” Says Nikki Miller-Ka, a food writer who has

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been covering the region for years: “There’s a creativity here that anyone can tap into. Whoever you are, wherever you are in your life, whatever you want to be, you can realize that in Winston-Salem. It’s a special place.” I couldn’t agree more. I lived in WinstonSalem before moving to Columbus, and I love the city unapologetically. I’ve spent the last eight years proselytizing for its peacefulness, its beautiful mountain terrain nearby, its exceptional cuisine and especially its people.

PHOTO: COURTESY VISIT WINSTON-SALEM

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WINSTON-SALEM, NC

Downtown dining on Fourth Street

PHOTO: J. SINCLAIR PHOTOGRAPHY

View from within Old Salem Museums & Gardens as it faces downtown Winston-Salem

Downtown Downtown Winston-Salem, just over six hours from Central Ohio, is the kind of place other downtowns wish they could be. Every spring when the weather turns warm, people fill the streets (until 2020 that is—thanks COVID). They eat and drink outdoors, take part in dozens of festivals, catch a movie at the independent theater and relish being outside, together, in a place with good food, engaging people and beautiful weather. For me, Camino is the heart of downtown—a place where people gather, not just for coffee but for conversation. It opened in 2011 but had been percolating (pun very much intended) since 2008, when Clifford started selling her baked goods at another downtown institution, Krankies Coffee, which is a coffee shop but also an art gallery and an incredible restaurant. Since then, Camino has been a driving force behind

bringing live music to the street outside the bakery and hosting shows for local photographers and other artists. But there’s more to downtown than just food (even though the food is excellent). Catch a film at Aperture Cinema or book a private browsing session at Bookmarks, a literary arts nonprofit that operates a fantastic bookstore on Fourth Street and also holds a literary festival each year. Stop in at Foothills Brewing two doors down for a pint. North Carolina is the beer capital of the East Coast for a reason, and though Asheville always gets the spotlight, Winston-Salem holds its own. There are eight microbreweries within a 1.5-mile radius of downtown. On spring and summer weekends you’re likely to find a street festival, with themes ranging from cycling to wine to music. Take a class (or pick up a new piece of art) at the Sawtooth School for Visual Art, an allages, nonprofit instructional center. WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Visit Camino, of course, where my go-to order always includes a cookie (vegan options available) and a cup of tea. And Krankies—I do not eat much meat, but when I’m in town, I almost always grab one of the chicken biscuits for breakfast. Foothills has the best burger in town, according to Miller-Ka. Small Batch Beer Co. offers pub food and microbrews. Spring House is more upscale, with a sweet Southern atmosphere and a focus on locally grown produce and locally raised meat.

WINSTON-SALEM, NC

378 miles away | 6-hour drive

The Arts District Winston-Salem is a city of artists, and the Arts District, along Trade Street downtown, is among the city’s jewels. Here you’ll find the Piedmont Craftsmen Gallery (featuring work by craftswomen, too), a venue run by the Piedmont Craftsmen nonprofit, which exists to promote fine handicraft in the arts. Seek out work by Coppertide, my favorite Winston-Salem artist. She was accepted to the 2020 Columbus Arts Festival before it was canceled. A number of other galleries call the area home, too. Earthbound Arts offers handmade teas, soaps and pottery, all with a deep respect for nature. Body and Soul is a bookstore, boutique and gallery rolled FEBRUARY 2021 COLUMBUS MONTHLY

WINSTON-SALEM, NC A demonstration at the Piedmont Craftsmen Fair

The Ramkat

into one. Black-owned and a staple of the Arts District for the last 20 years, it features art imported from Africa, books primarily by Black and local authors, and shea-based skin care products. The northern end of the district has the best music venue in town, The Ramkat, where, if the pandemic wanes in 2021, you can catch acts like Buddy Guy and Chatham County Line.

Do not miss Sweet Potatoes—full legal name: Sweet Potatoes (Well Shut My Mouth). This award-winning restaurant has been around since 2003 and serves up Southern staples like chicken and waffles, fried green tomatoes and fried chicken. Mojito Latin Soul Food offers excellent tamales, tacos and arepas, but the best items, according to Miller-Ka, are the ham croquettes. “This is probably the hottest restaurant in town right now,” she says. “And those croquettes are phenomenal.” Or duck into Mission Pizza Napoletana, the first Neapolitan pizzeria in North Carolina. Chef and owner Peyton Smith takes the craft of making pizza so seriously that before the pandemic you couldn’t get it in a box to go because it would compromise the quality. Single Brothers is a delightful spot for creative cocktails. If wine is more your speed, visit 6th and Vine, where glasses are half off every Thursday; every Sunday, bottles are. Both have patios for enjoying the Carolina sunshine. Old Salem and Brookstown Hundreds of years ago, Winston-Salem was two different areas, colonized and founded by two separate groups of people. Winston was named for a Revolutionary War hero; Salem was built by Moravian settlers. (The 56

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Raffaldini Vineyards

word “Salem” comes from the Hebrew word “shalom,” meaning “peace.”) The Moravian tradition is still strong in Winston-Salem, where at Christmastime, Christian churches host “love feasts” with peaceful music, simple candles and sweet bread. If you make it to the city for Easter, there is a lovely sunrise service at God’s Acre, in the Salem Moravian Graveyard, that begins with musicians walking throughout the city playing horns and singing—truly something to witness. The city honors its history in a number of ways, but the most obvious and easily accessible is in Old Salem, just a few miles from downtown. This historic district includes blocks of preserved or reimagined historic homes, workshops and a school, all as the Moravians who settled that area would have set them up in the mid-1700s. The pandemic has closed much of the village—during normal times, there are demonstrations, a restaurant and a bakery—but the village itself

is still open for a stroll. On Saturdays, visit the Cobblestone Farmers Market, an alllocal, producer-only affair with a focus on sustainable farming. The village is not far from Brookstown, an area just south of downtown that offers great restaurants and places to stay. If Old Salem is the focus of your trip, consider making Brookstown your base. WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Willow’s Bistro offers creative farm-totable food. Meridian Restaurant has upscale dining with northern Mediterranean flavors. Visit Di Lisio’s Italian Restaurant for pastas and bruschetta made by a chef from Naples, Italy. Camino has a location in Brookstown for a pastry-andcoffee pick-me-up. Stop in at nearby Acadia Foods for delicious breakfasts (try the mushroom pâté!) or sandwiches and salads for lunch.

PHOTOS: CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT, COURTESY VISIT WINSTON-SALEM; OWENS DANIELS; COURTESY VISIT WINSTON-SALEM

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

West End This is one of my favorite parts of the city, with my favorite Winston-Salem restaurant. The houses are architecturally interesting; it’s worth it to wander around and admire them. Visit Underdog Records for some new vinyl. The district stretches farther than you might think, down Northwest Boulevard past Hanes Park, a great place for a run or just to relax with a book. There are some great breweries—Hoots Beer Co., Joymongers Barrel Hall—and the city’s first distillery, Sutler’s Spirit Co., is also in this area.

Hoots Beer Co.

WHERE TO EAT

In a city of delicious food, it’s hard to pick a favorite, but I would always choose Mozelle’s Fresh Southern Bistro. (It’s one of my alltime favorite restaurants in the world, truly.) With ample sidewalk seating, heaters at every table and individual fleece blankets, you can cozy up with a slice of out-of-this-world tomato pie or a bowl of shrimp and grits and a glass of wine. Bernardin’s Restaurant is fine dining with a well-appointed patio. It’s a place where you’re likely to find exotic meats (kangaroo, for example, or North Carolina emu) on the menu. The Great Outdoors One of the best things about WinstonSalem, other than the food and the people, is its proximity to scenic natural recreation. Never has that felt more important than during the pandemic. A.J. Jackson, northern Piedmont representative for the Carolina Climbers’ Coalition, tells me he

PHOTOS: TOP, J. SINCLAIR PHOTOGRAPHY; BOTTOM, COURTESY VISIT WINSTON-SALEM

SIDE TRIP: GREENSBORO

thinks of the region as a hidden secret. “I have friends who have moved here specifically because they could climb after work,” he says. “You could have a job and then easy access to climbing and bouldering, or hiking, or mountain biking. It’s great.” In town, take a walk or bike ride along Salem Lake, a city park with a 7-mile trail that loops all the way around. If fishing is your thing, you can drop a line there without a license. There are excellent hikes nearby at Pilot Mountain State Park in Pinnacle, a 20-minute drive from WinstonSalem. My favorite is the Corridor Trail, a 6.6-mile hiking and bridle trail that starts about halfway up the mountain. Stop off at Three Bears Gulley for a beautiful view of the city skyline. Pilot Mountain is also a haven for rock climbers hoping to transi-

tion from the gym to the crag, with a dozen sport climbs that all can be handled with a 60-foot rope. Hanging Rock State Park in Danbury is about 45 minutes away and has more than 20 miles of hiking trails, 8.4 miles of mountain biking trails and access to the Dan River for kayaking. There’s also great climbing. Moore’s Wall, a large quartzite cliff, is a terrific spot for traditional climbers (you’ll want some experience “trad” climbing outside before you tackle this one). Cook’s Wall, a longer hike but likely to be less crowded, is popular for both trad and sport climbs. Hanging Rock requires a permit to climb; the Carolina Climbers’ Coalition has tons of information on all the best spots in the area. There are also excellent wineries in Yadkin Valley, typically within an hour’s drive of Winston-Salem. Some of my family’s favorites: Divine Llama in East Bend, where you can actually visit with llamas; Raffaldini Vineyards in Ronda, a serene, Italianstyle winery; and RayLen Vineyards and Winery in Mocksville. Check the vineyards’ websites for food truck schedules, or treat yourself to a meal at Kitchen Roselli in East Bend (dining room closed during COVID; takeout available). While you sip your wine, take a deep breath and relax. Life isn’t necessarily slower in this part of North Carolina, but under a sky-blue sky, with incredible food to fill your belly and mountains and forests to soothe your mind, it sure does feel peaceful. On her next trip to Winston-Salem, Laura Arenschield is going to climb Pilot Mountain, sip tea at Camino, eat tomato pie and hug all her friends.

Divine Llama

Winston-Salem, Greensboro and High Point make up the Triad of North Carolina, often pitched to corporate leaders as a regional hub, but the three cities have significantly different personalities. Still, Greensboro is worth a visit, if for no other reason than to spend time at the International Civil Rights Center and Museum. The museum is built around the Woolworth counter where four Black students refused to give up their seats in 1960 despite the deep and violent racism directed at them, which started the nonviolent protests of the civil rights movement. It is a thought-provoking, often sobering place that feels especially important given the necessary and overdue conversations about race in 2020. FEBRUARY 2021 COLUMBUS MONTHLY

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REHOBOTH BEACH, DE

515 miles away | 8.5-hour drive

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Welcome to the Culinary Coast PHOTOS: FIRST ROW LEFT TO RIGHT, COURTESY VISITDELAWARE.COM; KAREN FALK; COURTESY VISITDELAWARE.COM; SECOND ROW LEFT TO RIGHT, COURTESY VISITDELAWARE.COM; KAREN FALK; COURTESY DOGFISH HEAD; THIRD ROW LEFT TO RIGHT, COURTESY VISIT SOUTHERN DELAWARE (2); FOURTH ROW LEFT TO RIGHT, JAMES BOYLE; KAREN FALK; COURTESY PAUL CULLEN

Travel beyond the boardwalk to discover Rehoboth Beach and the surrounding towns, a dining mecca with an abundance of homegrown, artisanal products.

BY PAM GEORGE

n a typical sun-splashed Saturday, the boardwalk in Rehoboth Beach is humming. Couples sit on white benches with cones of Kohrs Bros. Frozen Custard. There is a line for Thrasher’s French Fries, which only come with vinegar—ketchup is verboten. The ocean breeze carries the happy squeals of children at Funland amusement park. On Rehoboth Avenue, it’s common to rub elbows with politicians. After all, this Delaware getaway is “The Nation’s Summer Capital,” a slogan that has new meaning with the election of President Joe Biden, who has a second home here. Just off the avenue, visitors have traditionally snapped photos of the giant Dolle’s sign over the boardwalk. Though the landmark is scheduled to come down when the saltwater taffy store moves a few doors over, many things about this charming beach town remain picturesque as a postcard. Nearly a nine-hour road trip from Columbus, Rehoboth Beach was founded in 1873 as a Methodist camp meeting retreat. By 1881, the meetings were over, but tourism had a firm footing. With fewer high-rises, Rehoboth is quieter than nearby Ocean City, Maryland, but this LGBTQ-friendly town is far from dull. There are drag shows at the Blue Moon—an upscale restaurant with a lounge—and musicals at Clear Space Theatre. National headliners perform at the Bottle & Cork in nearby Dewey Beach, known as a party town, and at the Freeman Stage, an outdoor venue near Fenwick Island on Delaware’s southern tip. The beachside bustle may be quieter this year, but it’s worth the trip for the food alone. The stretch from Lewes, just north of Rehoboth, to Fenwick Island is known as the “Culinary Coast.” With breweries, wineries and James Beard Award honorees, Delaware’s resort towns have become year-round destinations for travelers seeking distinctive dining.

Where to Stay A downtown Rehoboth rental or hotel offers easy access to the beach, boardwalk, shops and restaurants. The oceanfront Boardwalk Plaza boasts a charming 19th-century vibe. Linger over brunch in Victoria’s restaurant, which is tiered for views of the boardwalk and beach. The Bellmoor Inn & Spa’s older section overlooks lush gardens. The hotel’s main section, built in 1999, recently underwent an overhaul, and the new owner is adding a lobby bar and restaurant. After its own renovations, Avenue Inn & Spa shares a building with The Blue Hen, a semifinalist for a James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant. Try the lobster toast or fried chicken. The 52-room Hotel Rehoboth is farther from the ocean but offers seasonal shuttle service. Lupo Italian Kitchen, which has an all-Italian wine list, is in the same building. Cultured Pearl, an Asian restaurant with a rooftop deck and carp-filled canals, sits across the street. Lots of Libations Those more interested in suds than the sea should head to Lewes for the 16-room Dogfish Head Inn, a two-story motel under the Dogfish Head Craft Brewery umbrella. Founder Sam Calagione, a James Beard Award winner, opened Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats in Rehoboth in 1995 with a 10-gallon system that made 0.3 barrels per batch. In 2019, the company merged with the Boston Beer Co., which makes Samuel Adams Boston Lager, but it has kept its “offcentered” identity. Dogfish Head’s Rehoboth Beach restaurant still has a small brewing system, now producing experimental beers. The staff worked with Fifer Orchards to create a beer made with apple cider doughnuts, and with Rapa Scrapple to make Beer for Breakfast. (A Delaware staple, scrapple is FEBRUARY 2021 COLUMBUS MONTHLY

REHOBOTH BEACH, DE

mush typically made with pork trimmings, cornmeal, flour and spices.) The brewpub’s next-door sibling, Chesapeake & Maine, has an innovative, acclaimed cocktail program. Just don’t ask for Tito’s; the restaurant only offers Dogfish Head beer and spirits. For true beer nerds, head to nearby Milton to tour the sprawling Dogfish Head brewery. Order a flight in the tasting room and play bocce ball in the shadow of the Steampunk Treehouse, which was created for the Burning Man festival in Nevada and shipped to Delaware.

T H E F I R S T S TAT E ’ S FIRST TOWN Lewes and Rehoboth merge on the beach of Cape Henlopen State Park, but most Rehoboth vacationers make the quick drive up Route 1. Lewes, pronounced “Lew-is,” is known for its history, with roots that go back to 1631. Initially settled by the Dutch, much of its walkable downtown area is a national historic district. For background, visit the Zwaanendael Museum, a replica of the Hoorn town hall in the Netherlands, or the Lewes History Museum in the Margaret H. Rollins Community Center. The leafy Lewes Historical Society complex has nine main structures. Tour a blacksmith shop that dates to the 1790s and the circa 1785 Burton-Ingram House, nationally recognized for its Federal-style architecture. Lewes has boutiques and antique stores, not arcades and a boardwalk. However, a stroll on Lewes Beach is a must for the view of the twin lighthouses—the East End and the Harbor of Refuge. 60

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Dogfish Head’s success spawned a beercentric industry that complements tourism. In Lewes, for instance, Big Oyster Brewery and Crooked Hammock Brewery are near Cape Henlopen State Park, which offers bay and ocean beaches, hiking trails and camping. You’ll also find Crooked Hammock’s products at its sister restaurant, Big Chill Beach Club, an alfresco eatery atop the concession stand in Delaware State Seashore Park. At night, view the neon bluelighted bridge over the Indian River Inlet. Revelation Craft Brewing Co. is off the Junction and Breakwater Trail, a rails-totrails path that links Lewes and Rehoboth. On state Route 1, stop at Thompson Island Brewing Co. in Rehoboth, then travel to Dewey Beer Co. in Dewey Beach. Southern Delaware wineries include Nassau Valley Vineyards, owned by chanteuse Peggy Raley-Ward, who organizes Rehoboth’s True Blue Jazz Festival. Former Dogfish Head brewer Jon Talkington owns Brimming Horn Meadery, which specializ-

Surf and Turf Drive west of Route 1 and you’ll undoubtedly spot long, narrow chicken houses. Cecile Steele started the booming poultry industry in 1923 when she received 500 chicks instead of 50. The enterprising Steele raised the birds for meat instead of eggs. Her former home is now the restaurant Café on 26, and a replica of her chicken house is on the Ocean View Historical Society campus close by. Many commercial farms support the poultry industry, but there are also smaller operations like Good Earth Market & Organic Farm near Bethany Beach. Owner Susan Ryan has partnered with chef Nino Mancari to create a restaurant in the grocery store that highlights local produce, artisan cheeses, high-quality meats and veggie options. Agritourism is hot, and some of Delmarva Discovery Tours’ most popular excursions involve farm trips. At Hopkins Farm Creamery, visitors can eat ice cream under the cows’ placid gaze. The producer-only Historic Lewes Farmers Market, one of the largest of more than 10 along the coast, is on Saturday mornings. The Rehoboth Beach Farmers Market is on Tuesdays in Grove Park, which is next to the Rehoboth Beach Museum. Veteran vendors include Milton-based Backyard Jams & Jellies, whose beach plum jelly is a local favorite. Old World Breads is another regular.

PHOTOS: TOP, COURTESY VISITDELAWARE.COM; BOTTOM, COURTESY VISIT SOUTHERN DELAWARE

es in honey wine. Step into the building and you’ll feel as though you’re in an episode of the History channel’s Vikings. Brimming Horn is near the newly opened Georgetown-Lewes Trail, which also runs by Beach Time Distilling. Farther south, Salted Vines Vineyard & Winery is a pleasant drive from Rehoboth that will take you inland and close to the Great Cypress Swamp.

If you miss owner Keith Irwin at the market, visit his Lewes bakery next to Beach Time Distilling to kill two birds with one stone. The chicken pot pies are memorable. At the Rehoboth market, you may meet Paul Cullen, a former bassist with the rock band Bad Company, who now sells five different kinds of house-made sausage, Paul’s Rockin’ & Rollin’ Olive Oil and Paul’s Rockin’ Tuscan Bean Hummus. He owns Paul’s Kitchen & Cullen-ary Co. outside of Lewes, a local hangout for weekend brunch and a meeting ground for gastronomic entrepreneurs and artisans. Delaware’s waterways also influence area cuisine, and oysters are the star at Henlopen City Oyster House in downtown Rehoboth. Other options include Starboard Raw in Dewey Beach and many of SoDel Concepts’ 12 coastal restaurants. Judging by the number of crab houses along the coast, blue crabs are as beloved in Delaware as in Maryland. Highlights include The Surfing Crab in Lewes, Claws Seafood House and The Crab House in Rehoboth, and Fenwick Crab House in Fenwick Island. And you can’t toss a claw in Delaware without hitting a crab cake. Many insist that Woody’s Dewey Beach has the best. Owner

Jimmy O’Conor has perfected a recipe that includes buttermilk, and customers flock to get them on a bun or platter. From Farm to Beachside Table Not surprisingly, area chefs are inspired by the abundance of produce, meat and seafood. On the menu at Heirloom in Lewes, you may spot broccoli rabe from Totem Farms in Milton or tender carrots from Baywater Farms in Salisbury, Maryland. Chef Matthew Kern, a two-time James Beard semifinalist, plates some of the prettiest dishes around. Hari Cameron, also a James Beard semifinalist, is a longtime advocate of local ingredients. He and his brother Orion now produce delicious and often fanciful housemade pasta at Grandpa Mac, their restaurant in Rehoboth. At Houston White Co., Sussex County native Megan Kee brings a farm-to-table touch to the steakhouse concept. Oysters are from Rehoboth Bay, which is experiencing a rebirth in aquafarming, and her jumbo lump crab cakes come from a century-old recipe. Kee also owns La Fable, a French restaurant, and Dalmata, an Italian concept, which are also in Rehoboth.

The thriving dining scene owes its fame to the Back Porch Café, whose arrival in 1974 altered the culinary landscape. Then an upstart, the café popularized outdoor dining and made-from-scratch food that spotlights seasonal ingredients. Longtime employees Dmitry Shubich and Aksana Voranova purchased the Back Porch in 2020, but little has changed. Bee Neild, who joined the team in the 1970s, remains the bartender, and chef Tim McNitt has been in the kitchen since 1997. Save room for a wacky concoction at The Ice Cream Store, owned by Chip Hearn, who also started the Peppers hot sauce business in Lewes. Try Sharkenstein, a blend of strawberry and peach ice cream with strawberry pieces and blueberry swirl. The flavor was an official ice cream of the Rehoboth Beach Sea Witch Festival, a yearly October event. The ice cream stand is steps from the boardwalk, so take your cone to the sand. In between bites, remember to savor the sun and sea. The author of “First State Plates: Iconic Delaware Restaurants & Recipes,” Pam George is a Delaware-based food and travel writer who divides her time between Wilmington and Lewes.

FEBRUARY 2021 COLUMBUS MONTHLY

A Wine Lover’s Getaway Michigan’s Grand Traverse region is booming with vineyards, boundless natural beauty and all sorts of sights and secret gems to explore.

BY ELLEN CREAGER

racing and complex. Artistic and inspiring. These words describe not only Grand Traverse wine but also its wineries, dotted across the lush landscape. “It is beautiful, gorgeous, full of rural backroads—its own little slice of heaven in northwest Michigan,” says Greg Knorr, owner of Grand Traverse Tours. “Out of 40 wineries, they all have their own little personalities.” The Grand Traverse region is best known for its National Cherry Festival and the classic Lake

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Michigan summer ambiance, but the area’s ideal wine-growing conditions have made it a magnet for tourists who want to sip throughout their trip. Start at the wineries—scattered around the hub of Traverse City, six and a half hours north of Columbus—and you also will find hidden gems of natural beauty and rich culture. “It’s a world-class-quality wine region within driving distance of the Midwest, in a really gorgeous area,” says Matt Lundy, distribution manager of Chateau

PHOTO: TONY DEMIN

B E S T D R I V I N G VAC AT I O N S

G R A N D T R AV E R S E, M I

431 miles away | 6.5-hour drive

A couple walks in Hawthorne Vineyards on Old Mission Peninsula.

WINE TOURS

PHOTO: COURTESY TRAVERSE CITY TOURISM

Most wineries welcome individual visitors to drop by. Still, many people choose to take a winery tour, leaving the driving to someone else. One of the busiest is Grand Traverse Tours, offering four-hour public options or specialized private tours. You choose either Old Mission or Leelanau wineries.

just north of Traverse City—Old Mission and the Leelanau. “The Leelanau is rural, with cornfields, cherries and many wineries tucked down country roads,” says Knorr. “Old Mission is the long, skinny peninsula with orchards, vineyards and high-end homes, a lot of elegance.” In the last 20 years, lofty ambitions and serious money have created wineries with stylish tasting rooms and scenic verandas to pamper guests. The most highly regarded varietals are crisp riesling, citrusy pinot gris and sparkling wine. But as the vineyards age into maturity, all the wine is getting finer, Lundy says. “After 20 years, we’re getting to a point where we can compete on a worldwide scale.”

In 2020, workarounds to the coronavirus moved winery events outdoors and inspired new ideas. In 2021, some of those good ideas will be retained, especially outdoor, sitdown wine tastings, Lundy predicts. The wineries also serve as gateways to this shimmering blue-and-green land, whose hidden trails and secret spots invite visitors to relax in the northern Michigan fresh air of these three mini regions. Traverse City In brief: The starting point for all visits. A creative, bustling downtown with arts, dining, shopping and wine tasting. The Boardman River winds through town, and Grand Traverse Bay is just two blocks from the main drag. Locals call it: TC Wineries: Left Foot Charley is a winemaking enterprise right in town. Using grapes from area vineyards, workers make wine in a building on the grounds of what used to be the Northern Michigan Asylum—now called The Village at Grand Traverse Commons. Secret gem: Boardman Lake Loop Trail, a local favorite Cool spots: Front Street retains charm despite a trendy buildup of bars, restaurants and shops. One great store is Votruba Leather Goods, with its original wooden floors and high ceilings. Don’t miss this: The amazing Horizon Books, 59 years in business. Exactly what a bookstore should be. Get around: Walking, bike, car

Mari Vineyards on Old Mission

Fontaine winery in Lake Leelanau. “It’s a jack-of-all-trades destination.” The first vineyards were planted in the region in the late 1960s, when vintners realized that the excellent glacial soil and temperate conditions favorable for growing cherries and apples were also good for grapes. Today, Michigan has 3,050 acres of wine vineyards. Most wineries of the Grand Traverse region perch on two peninsulas FEBRUARY 2021 COLUMBUS MONTHLY

Leelanau Peninsula In brief: Bigger than Old Mission, it used to be mostly cherry and apple orchards. Now it features far more wineries and people. A combination of agricultural and trendy, it is bounded on the east by Grand Traverse Bay and on the west by mighty Lake Michigan. Locals call it: The Leelanau Wineries: You could spend days rambling around the Leelanau Wine Trail, which has 25 members. Among the standouts are Blustone Vineyards in Lake Leelanau and Mawby in Suttons Bay, which only produces sparkling wines. Visitors are impressed to learn that the family of Michigan-born pop singer Madonna owns the Ciccone Vineyard & Winery. Chateau Fontaine is a wonderful, small, rustic winery that has an unassuming façade for its elegant products. Secret gem: Farm Club, a relaxing combination farm, market, brewery and restaurant on 35 acres. Cool spots: Suttons Bay, Northport and Leland are small towns with great shopping. Leland’s Fishtown, a favorite, boasts shops in old fishing shanties. Don’t miss this: Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. These are not wimpy dunes. These are mighty mountains of 450-foot-high sand. In 2011, Good Morning America named Sleeping Bear the most beautiful place in the United States. Since the secret got out, it is being loved to death. Go early in the day or in the off-season.

A couple relaxes at Brys Estate on Old Mission.

WHERE TO S TAY The inns attached to Chateau Chantal, Black Star Farms and Chateau Grand Traverse wineries provide scenic options. Others include the Wellington Inn bed-andbreakfast in town, Vineyard Inn in Suttons Bay and many waterfront hotels along Grand Traverse Bay. Campers can try the state park campground in Traverse City or campsites at Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore. Unless you really want to be out in the country, keep your lodging search within a 15-mile radius of Traverse City proper. For links to lodging options, see traversecity.com.

Black Star Farms on Leelanau Peninsula

Chateau Chantal Winery and Inn on Old Mission

Old Mission Peninsula In brief: An 18-mile peninsula just north of downtown Traverse City. Hugged by the eastern and western arms of Grand Traverse Bay. Low-key elegance. Lots of vacation homes, but residents regularly fight to preserve the rural character of the peninsula. Locals call it: Old Mission Wineries: Ten wineries make up the Old Mission Peninsula Wine Trail. They range from the continental formality of Chateau Chantal to the sleek, low-key Brys Estate. Chateau Chantal has an inn, cooking classes, jazz, wine dinners and cellar tours. Some smaller wineries simply have 64

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wine tastings and beautiful views. Most showcase the stunning sight of vineyards cascading down to Grand Traverse Bay. Secret gem: Stop for a Bad Dog Reuben at the Bad Dog Deli. It is halfway up the peninsula in the tiny burg of Mapleton. Cool spot: Pyatt Lake Natural Preserve is a wooded dune and lake beloved by locals. Don’t miss this: The Mission Point Lighthouse at the peninsula’s tip is on the 45th parallel, which marks the halfway point between the equator and the North Pole. Get around: By car or bicycle. If you’d rather run than walk, try the annual Bayshore Marathon, a scenic course that takes runners up and down Old Mission.

PHOTOS: TOP LEFT, TONY DEMIN; BOTTOM LEFT AND RIGHT, COURTESY TRAVERSE CITY TOURISM

G R A N D T R AV E R S E, M I

MISSION: LE B A Z Z I IMP

Get around: By car. People do ride mountain bikes, but the terrain is hilly, so be prepared.

FIVE MORE AT T R AC T I O N S Golf: Ardent golfers can challenge themselves at The Bear, which was designed by Upper Arlington native Jack Nicklaus and is one of three fine courses at Grand Traverse Resort and Spa. Watersports: Beaches, boating, swimming, kayaking, sailing—water is everywhere. You also can take sunset cruises on the Tall Ship Manitou. National Cherry Festival: The annual, world-famous celebration of all things cherry is July 3-10, 2021. Outdoor art: Michigan Legacy Art Park, south of Traverse City in Thompsonville, has 40 sculptures and is open year-round. It’s at Crystal Mountain, which is also a great family ski resort. Winter fun: Skiing, snowshoeing, fat tire bike rentals. And remember, many wineries are open all winter.

Ellen Creager is a Detroit-based travel writer who has reported from across Michigan and the world. She’s a fan of mellow Old Mission pinot gris.

stay warm. stay safe. eat pizza. Accept the challenge and complete your mission! Travel the Greater Lima Pizza Trail and indulge all of your cheesy cravings. For classified details and to download your confidential files stake out visitgreaterlima.com

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fresh water coast where you coast for miles

It’s where everything just comes together. Where the view ahead is just as sweet as the one at your side. And no matter what turn you take, you’ll find yourself in a pretty great place.

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