Installing A Baker Drivetrain Compensator Sprocket

his month we are going to be working on a 2009 Harley Davidson Road King. The t drivetrain is all stock, and it has the common issues known with this model. The compensator sprocket is very noisy and sometimes will not even allow the bike to start. This bike has an automatic primary chain tensioner that will automatically tighten the chain and put undue stress on the driveline. With that being said, we will fix these common issues with installing a Baker drivetrain compensator sprocket and

“Attitude” primary chain adjustor.

Let’s get right to disassembly. Here are a few things over and above what your manual describes. You will want to use a MAP gas torch to warm the head of the compensator sprocket bolt. This will help loosen the Loctite and make removal much easier. It is still not easy… Another cool little trick to help with disassembly is to use a Zip Tie wrapped around the automatic chain adjuster to keep it from springing free. When removing the primary chain.

Remove the internal snap ring from the clutch basket adjuster, along with the left-handed nut that retains the entire clutch basket. Then you will want to remove the fasteners that retain the primary automatic adjuster. You will now be able to remove the compensator, clutch, and chain at the same time.

Early factory compensators use a charging rotor with an integrated cup for part of the compensator spring; bikes equipped with this style rotor must be retrofitted to a later style charging rotor.

To remove this early-style charging rotor, the manual wants you to remove the entire inner primary. However, what I found is to remove all the inner primary fasteners and pull the inner primary out approx. ¼’. This will allow it to drop down in the front and allow you to remove and replace the charging rotor. Now you can reinstall the inner primary bolts and torque to spec. 25/27 ft-lbs. Install the Baker Compensator Sprocket and clutch basket with no primary chain. We are going to check the sprocket alignment next. To check for proper sprocket alignment, I use a straight edge across the compensator sprocket’s face and measure to the primary cover gasket surface. You will also do this with the clutch and its sprocket. You will want the alignment to be within .030. It may be necessary to shim the compensator to get to this number.

Be sure to clean out the threaded hole for the compensator sprocket bolt and ensure no Loctite residue remains. Now we can slide on the comp sprocket, clutch, chain, and “Attitude” adjuster all at the same time.

You will need to apply red Loctite to the compensator bolt, which is a T70 Torx. Using a primary locking tool between the chain and sprocket, torque the compensator bolt to 100 ft-lbs and then back it off a half a turn and re-torque to 175 ft-lbs. Then the clutch hub nut gets red Loctite and torqued to 80 ft-lbs.

RE-install the clutch hub adjuster and internal snap ring. Now you can reinstall the outer primary cover and top everything off with your preferred primary oil.

I will have to admit this install was a bit intimidating, but after reading the provided Baker directions, this was a very straightforward install. You will also want to have your factory manual handy. Currently, we have 1500 miles on this Baker upgrade, and everything is working as it should. The bike now starts effortlessly, and we have peace of mind that the primary chain adjustment is on point. If there is something that you would like to see a Tech article on or have a question, please call me or email me with your idea! Facebook- Pandemonium Custom Choppers Instagram – pandemoniumc2 happydandemonium@gmail.com www.pandemoniumcustomchoppers.com

The “Attitude” chain adjuster works just like earlier style chain tensioners. What we are looking for is a cold adjustment 5/8” – 7/8” of free play adjustment in the chain. I check this adjustment at multiple points in the chain by rotating the primary chain assembly. You will notice that some spots are tighter and looser. This is inherent in every primary chain. You want to make your adjustment at the tightest spot in the chain. 5/8” – 7/8” cold. I use a metal rule here to make this as accurate as possible.