fall
Home Improvement guide
Special Supplement
Community Advocate October 5, 2012
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2 • Community Advocate • Fall Improvement Guide • Friday, October 5, 2012
Heating costs: Insulating our lives As first-time homeowners, my husband and I had a lot to learn. Our first lesson came in the form of a gas bill. It was $800 for the month of January. “How is that possible?” we asked. We had been very conservative with how much heat we used, even sleeping with extra blankets. So we took further action,
determined to drive our gas bill lower. We only kept the heat on in our kids’ rooms and proceeded to walk through the house bundled up for the month of February. Then the bill came for February: $750. What?! How could that be? We had done everything we could to use as little gas as possible. We then contacted a heating and air conditioning
company, which sent people to take a look. And so our first lesson in house owning began. First, it is more economical to set all of your thermostats to remain at the same temperature throughout the day and night. It is much more expensive to turn them off and then on again. OK, so they set our entire house to
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68 degrees. Second, and this is the most important part, our attic was not insulated properly. So how should we go about doing this? There are three main types of insulation: batts, blown and sprayed. Batts are large pieces of insulation that hold together because they’re made of long, interweaving fibers with adhesive binders. The two kinds of batts you’re most likely to encounter are fiberglass and cotton. In terms of their insulating quality, they’re pretty much equivalent. The problem with batts is that they don’t cover the entire space and are known to leave gaps or spaces. The second type of insulation is blown. There are two types of blown insulation, fiberglass and cellulose. Cellulose comes from recycled newspapers. Fiberglass comes from sand. Whether you use cellulose or fiberglass, blown insulation is great at filling the gaps and giving you a good, complete layer of insulation. The third major type of insulation is spray foam. This is the most expensive of the three. According to our contractor, it is the best at keeping the heat inside when it is cold outside and the hot air outside when the weather is warmer. This type of insulation comes in spray cans and is composed of resin and certain chemicals. When sprayed, the chemicals and resin create a foam that expands and solidifies in place. Now it was time to do some price investigating. We had three different contractors come over and give us price quotes. Naturally, we went
If you’re paying a lot to heat your house, new insulation in your attic could be the answer.
with what seemed to be the least expensive while the most capable. We used the spray foam because in the end, we would save money, even though there was a significant cost upfront. On a Friday morning, three men from Poland came over and went to work. They took up the old wood planks that were in the attic and began filling the spaces. After about five hours, they were finished. My husband and I went up to the attic and saw the brand-new spray foam covering the floor of the attic. It looked and felt much better. So time went on, and we anxiously waited for our next gas bill. Finally, the envelope arrived. I quickly opened it. A huge smile formed on my face as I saw the total: $200 for the month. Wow, what a huge savings. And the following month, as spring came, it was $150. At this pace, we’ll earn back our investment in insulation in no time.
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Community Advocate • Fall Improvement Guide • Friday, October 5, 2012 • 3
Kitchen Remodeling Checklist: Are you prepared? A kitchen remodeling checklist is paramount to a successful kitchen remodel. A top-level checklist is composed of a sequence of tasks that should be performed in order to achieve a successful outcome. I say “sequence” because a specific order in working through a remodeling project is essential. If you don’t follow the proper steps, you inevitably will spend more time and money and experience more headaches and hassles in completing your kitchen remodel. At the top of your checklist should be defining the objectives of your kitchen remodel. Ask yourself what you want to achieve with your new kitchen in regard to features and space, how much money you want to spend on it, and when you want it completed. Answering those three basic questions will help you to establish a top-level budget and a timeline for completing the project. Next on the checklist is to develop a set of kitchen design plans and the key elements that you want to incorporate into those plans. For most homeowners, it makes sense to work with a professional kitchen designer, as they can provide you with wonderful tips on the latest kitchen cabinetry and countertop features -- and can actually generate detailed kitchen design plans for you. The most important element of a kitchen remodeling project -- or any major home remodeling project for that matter -- is hiring the right contractor. Hiring the wrong contractor often leads to large cost overruns, schedule delays and
ity bids that include detailed schedules and a complete bill of materials. Once your kitchen remodeling plans are in place and you know what the expected costs are for your project, visit your local building inspector to pull any necessary permits. Failing to pull the necessary permits could cost you greatly in terms of steep fines and hassles. With permits in hand, you can begin to do the actual remodeling work. A wellplanned kitchen remodeling project should only take a couple of weeks to complete. During the actual remodeling phase, talk with your contractor about once a day to see whether there are any issues that need to be addressed and to ensure that the project is on track for an on-time completion. By following this top-level checklist, your chances of a successful kitchen remodel skyrocket. Enjoy your new kitchen! At the top of your checklist should be defining the objectives of your kitchen remodel.
major frustrations. In the worst cases, it can lead to the project never being completed and the contractor stealing from you by buying excess materials for your project and then skimming the materials for another job. Make no mistake: These types of problems are very common when the wrong contractor is hired. Consequently, when embarking on a kitchen remodeling project, make sure your checklist includes a thorough process for hiring the right contractor. Often the kitchen designer can help in this pro-
cess, as well. Whatever you do in regard to hiring a contractor, make sure to check the references of each prospective contractor and view pictures of their complete projects, and if at all possible, go out and visit one of their most recently completed projects. Also, make sure they are a licensed kitchen remodeling contractor in your state and that they are properly insured. Finally, keep in mind that the more thorough a contractor’s bid the more accurate it is likely to be in terms of cost and schedule. Look for qual-
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4 • Community Advocate • Fall Improvement Guide • Friday, October 5, 2012
Interior Design: Modern or contemporary? Many times, clients ask me for a cutting-edge design, and they insist on calling it modern. During our conversations, they repeat over and over that they want a modern interior. But what exactly is modern? And more importantly, what are they really asking for? The word “modern” is a bit of a misnomer when used to describe design today. “Modern” is so overused that it has ceased to have meaning. Let’s clear the air. Modern is a style of decorating that developed during the mid-20th century. This period of time covered several decades, so many different renditions of modern have been seen, from the simplistic 1930s to the heavyhanded 1980s. Generally, mid-century modern style meant designers chose restraint and a rejection of fussiness as an expression for an interior design that was reflective of the type of architecture being built at the time. Spare, sleek, chromeaccented furniture inspired by machinery and simple wood furnishings inspired by nature
Many people erroneously call contemporary designs, such as the one here, “modern.”
typified the decor of that era. Plain carpeting was preferred over the embellishments of Oriental or European carpeting. Simple painted walls or plain wood paneling was used, making wallpapered or upholstered walls a thing of the past. Shades or blinds were used in place of layers of heavy drapery. Many of the edicts of modern design have carried over into our present-day contem-
porary style. Still, when you say “modern,” the connotation is an interior design that is almost clinical -- full of practical, easy-to-keep surfaces, with rigid geometrical lines and an absence of embellishment or decoration. When clients are shown interior designs by true modernists -- such as Mies van der Rohe, Eileen Gray and Le Corbusier -- their expressions are often ones of bewilderment, and most say,
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“Oh, those are too sterile.” In reality, what they are after is a contemporary interior, which is not so stylistically severe. Most homeowners are looking for a clean design that is youthful, warm and userfriendly. Contemporary interiors are in demand because they offer a great amount of flexibility. Contemporary interiors are spaces designed to stay in tune with today’s tastes. Contem-
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porary can range from pure versions of modernism’s early days to eclectic interiors reflective of today’s global access and trade. The contemporary lexicon has an open mind and can easily accept trends and tradition alike. To keep your home contemporary, you have to pay attention to it, allowing for things to change and evolve over time. Your goal should be to keep things from becoming too static or expected. Almost everyone can attempt doing a contemporary interior. Contemporary interiors bring the benefit of being cutting-edge in mixing things. This doesn’t necessarily mean buying every new item that comes to the market every year. Just be willing to accept the good things that blend with your existing interiors. Avoid furnishing with items that are too strange or bizarre. Good taste is good taste, whatever the style. Just remember that a contemporary interior keeps up with its time and that a modern design is easily -- and usually -- dated.
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Community Advocate • Fall Improvement Guide • Friday, October 5, 2012 • 5
High end smaller homes for older adults Homebuilders should offer more than starter homes and condos As my wife and I were out walking today, we discussed our future home requirements and desires. With two out of three of our children out of college, we’re thinking of downsizing our home in the not-too-distant future. We’d like to buy something smaller than our existing home, but we don’t want to buy a starter home or a condo. Unfortunately, at least in our area of the country, those seem to be the only two options for empty nesters who are looking for new home construction. As we commiserated on this fact, we came to the conclusion that there has to be a market for high-end smaller homes for older adults. With the population aging and the baby boomer generation just starting to get to retirement age, it seems inevitable that smaller homes will be in high demand. My wife and I are hard pressed to believe that most “under-70” baby boomers will seriously consider downsizing into small condo units, the equivalent of what we once called an apartment complex, or into smaller homes with contractor grade flooring, lighting, and appliances. Yet those seem to be the only two choices available today for older adults, unless they choose to buy a small home and completely remodel it themselves. Homebuilders should seriously take note of the country’s aging population and begin to design and build more new high end smaller homes for this demographic. Effectively, this group of homebuyers will be looking for the “Porsche’dout” home, both in size and features. This market opportunity offers several benefits to the builder, real estate agent, and municipality. First, it offers a high-margin product to a large population with deep pockets. Second, though I’m not a fan of cluster zoning, due to the smaller footprint associated with a compact home, more homes can be built per square acre. This translates into more revenue for the builder, real estate agent, and even for the municipality. Most town or cities would bend over backward to have more positive
cash flow residential property within their borders. With today’s sky-high cost per pupil expenditures for public education, just one child in a home can easily create a negative tax cash flow to the municipality. As a result, just as municipalities have offered tax breaks to builders for constructing 50+ age condo unit complexes, they should do the same for builders constructing
high-end smaller homes for older adults in 50-plus cluster zones. With a housing market that has been in decline for about six years now, building higher-end smaller homes for older adults may be just the ticket for turning the market around. Another benefit to this concept is that the same smaller home designs and floor plans could also be used
for the younger and/or less wealthy market segments. To lower the costs for these populations, some of the highend internal features could be reduced to “builder’s-grade.” The only difference would be that these homes would not be eligible for tax breaks because of the fact that they would more than likely have children in them and as a result be negative tax flows for
the community. Building smaller homes also offers a couple of “green” advantages. Energy demands associated with smaller homes are less, and the effective “carbon footprint” for each occupant living in these smaller homes is reduced. Ultimately, this translates into annual energy cost savings for the occupants and a better environment for everyone.
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6 • Community Advocate • Fall Improvement Guide • Friday, October 5, 2012
Kitchen Space: Improve the storage capacity of your cabinets Q
: My house has just an average-size kitchen, and I am totally remodeling it. Do you have any guidelines for selecting or designing kitchen cabinets or counter areas for the most usable space?
in a slot in the countertop, and the bread knife can be stored in the breadbox. This one item might save only a few steps and a few extra motions, but when you add up all these extra motions for a large meal preparation, the time saved can be significant. It is not unlike how an industrial engineer lays out a workspace for a worker in a factory. The goal is to minimize the extra motions that just waste time. Before you buy any of the base cabinets (under the countertop) and upper cabinets (on the walls over the countertop), make a list of the items you want to store in them. Categorize them by how often they are used and where they are used in the kitchen. For example, there really is no need to store all your spices in the same location. You may have some spices that you use almost every time you cook and others you seldom use. Store the frequently used ones near the front at eye level in prime storage area. The others can be put in a harder-to-reach location. Many seldom-used items can be stored on top shelves in the
A
: Your question is an interesting one because the storage in 95 percent of new and remodeled kitchens is very poorly designed. The cabinets and drawers may be of high quality and wellmade, but the storage basics are just not well-thought-out. A typical example is having a knife drawer or a compartment in a kitchen drawer for knives, forks, spoons, etc. This might sound like a wise plan because you always know where the knives are, at least until your children put them in the wrong place. Actually, a much better way to store cooking utensils is by their specific function and where they are used more often. If you use a paring knife most often by the sink and the bread knife on another countertop, store each closer to where it usually is used. The paring knife can be stored
backs of the cabinets to free up the more easily accessible areas. In most kitchens, the backs of many of the upper cabinets never are used, and the front areas are cluttered with these items. Next, subcategorize the items by their height, because this will determine the required heights of the drawers and cabinet shelves. Some short items can be placed on tilted (staircase) racks inside a drawer to reduce the drawer height. One-inch clearance above the items is all that is required. With this planning, you can have the cabinets designed with drawers and shelves of proper heights. Keep in mind that the easyaccess zone for most people is a height from the floor of about 22 to 55 inches. This area is easy to reach and see without bending or stretching. For handicapped or elderly people in wheelchairs, the upper range for easy access is about 46 inches. Another storage tip to consider is to store larger plates vertically in racks in the upper cabinets. When they are stacked one on top of another, the top one may be difficult to reach.
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Community Advocate • Fall Improvement Guide • Friday, October 5, 2012 • 7
Conserving Energy: The importance of turning lights off When you were a teenager, your parents probably not only told you to “turn down that music” but to also turn off the lights when you left a room. You may or may not have listened then, but now as an adult, you really should pay attention to what experts have to say about conserving energy. “It’s amazing what a difference simple behaviors can have on your comfort -- and energy bills -- in your home,” says Barbara Buffaloe, sustainability manager for the city of Columbia, Mo. “Just something as simple as opening and shutting curtains or blinds can really affect the temperature in a room.” In the wintertime Buffaloe says it’s best to keep the curtains open on the east, south and west sides of your home to allow those rooms to soak up the sun’s free solar heat. “At night, you can close those curtains tightly and keep all of that warm air inside to keep the room more comfortable,” she says. “Insulated curtains
Reading near a window can eliminate the need for a light to be on.
also help because they act as an additional layer of insulation.” In the summer you’ll want to close the curtains during the day. Paul Frantz, chief marketing officer of the energy supplier Energy Plus, advises that you “take control of home temperatures.” “In winter set your thermostat to 68 degrees or less during the daytime and 55 degrees before going to sleep -- or when you’re away during the day,” he says. “During the summer set thermostats to 78 degrees or more.” Frantz also suggests using
appliances efficiently. Set your refrigerator temperature at 38 to 42 F, while your freezer should be set between zero and 5 F. “Use the power-save switch if your fridge has one, and make sure the door seals tightly,” he says. “You can check this by making sure that a dollar bill closed in between the door gaskets is difficult to pull out. If it slides easily between the gaskets, replace them.” The upcoming fall and winter holidays will have you spending more time in the kitchen. Frantz says to avoid
“peeking” inside the oven more than necessary. “Check the seal on the oven door and use a microwave oven for cooking or reheating small items,” he says. When meals are finished, use your dishwasher wisely. “Wash only full loads in your dishwasher, using short cycles for all but the dirtiest dishes,” he says. “This saves water and the energy used to pump and heat it. Air-drying, if you have the time, can also reduce energy use.” Buffaloe says some appliances even use energy when they are off. Small electronics with LED lights and/or clocks on them are constantly pulling electricity. “The little red light on the DVD player and television doesn’t have to be on when you’re not watching television,” she says. “Even some cell-phone chargers pull electricity when no phone is plugged in. “The energy used by these electronics when not in use is called ‘vampire load,’ and it’s a waste of energy that can add
up over the course of a year,” she says. Instead, Buffaloe suggests plugging in small electronics and chargers to a power strip that allows you the ease of turning off multiple ‘vampire loads’ with the click of one switch. Following last year’s warm winter, this year is liable to seem even colder. Buffaloe says to remember to control “the power you have on your own comfort.” “Your grandmother was on to something when she said, ‘You’re cold? Put on a sweater.’ Every blanket or layer of clothes adds an additional layer of insulation to your body -- making you more comfortable in your own home or on the go. “You know that adding more insulation to your attic is good for your home energy bills,” Buffaloe concludes. “Put that into practice with adding an additional layer onto your own body and you won’t have to turn up the thermostat as high -- and thus heat more space than you’re even occupying.”
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8 • Community Advocate • Fall Improvement Guide • Friday, October 5, 2012
Saving energy with Low-E glass All window glass panes are not the same. Just because a new window is double-pane, doesn’t mean you’re necessarily buying the most energyefficient window. Yes, because of increased insulation performance, a double-pane window is a step-up in saving energy and keeping your home more comfortable during the cold winter months. However, by itself, a double-pane window
doesn’t help to keep your home cooler during the summer. By selecting windows with energy savings, such as low-E glass, which are also double-pane, you can ensure year-round energy-efficient windows. Low-E glass, or low-emissivity glass, is a special type of glass that has spectrally selective coatings applied to it. The thin-film coating is spe-
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on it, that it is nearly imperceptible to the naked eye. It effectively appears clear, thus not reducing the amount of natural light into your home. Moreover, today’s low-E glass film coatings are specially designed and applied so they help keep homes cooler during the summer months and warmer during the winter months. As a result, when combined with double-pane window technology, it provides the maximum in energy savings. When purchasing energysaving low-E glass windows, make sure to select ones appropriate for your climate region. Not all of them are the same. There are several types of spectrally selective low-E film coatings, and none are ideal for all climate regions. For example, there are some types that are more appropriate for the southwestern United States, while there are others that are more appropriate for the Northeast. As a matter of fact, the Energy Star program identifies four unique climate zones in the United States. With each climate zone, they recommend a specific type of low-E glass to be used in the windows. As a result, for those homeowners and builders participating in the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design program to build energy-efficient rated homes, they must use the specific type for their region, as recommended by the government. For example, the Energy Star program recommends homes built in the Northern and Central regions of the United States to use “Moderate Solar Gain Low-E Glass Windows.” These types of windows are specially designed to screen out a high percentage of the sun’s ultraviolet light during the summer months and a lower percentage during the winter months, when the added solar heating is desired. In the Southwest portion of the country, however, the government’s Energy Star program recommends using “Low Solar Gain Low-E Windows.” These windows let in even less ultraviolet sunlight and heat during the summer months. To learn more about spectrally selective low-E glass and other ways to make your home more energy efficient, visit EnergyStar.gov.
Community Advocate • Fall Improvement Guide • Friday, October 5, 2012 • 9
Turn dingy basements and garages into welcoming playrooms Weather changes signal challenges for young parents. For example, what to do with the kids on a rainy or snowy day? Well, going up and down the stairs to the basement occupies a toddler for only so long. You can drag out the toys -- and then put them away. You can read books and listen to music. My daughter-inlaw knows every community indoor playgroup in the city of Seattle for those cold, rainy days. She’s got a very active little boy who longs to run outside and doesn’t understand the constraints of bad weather. Consider finishing off a part of your basement and turning it into your own rainyday playroom. Make sure it’s mildew- and mold-free. Add good lighting and ventilation so that it becomes an inviting space. Check out specialty chalkboard paint, which is available in green or black. You simply brush it on a properly prepared wall surface, creating a huge chalkboard that’ll occupy your little ones for hours. While you’re at the store, consider painting the floor with basement floor covering; it’s an inexpensive spruce-up. Carpet squares, such as the ones offered that are modular carpet tiles, provide another relatively cost-effective way to cozy up the basement or even the garage. Storage for toys is important, too. Stacking plastic boxes, from milk crates to clear boxes with lids, is always popular. Think about how to provide each child with a labeled box of her own, as it will provide incentive for her to practice responsibility and pick up after herself. The pictured wood activity table features storage room for supplies for arts and crafts. The roll of butcher paper provides several children with hours of creativity in an organized way. Matching wood cubbyholes are another good way to encourage organization of books, toys and stuffed animals. If you’re on a tight budget, scout yard sales or consignment stores for a sturdy wood table, and cut off the legs so that you might duplicate the function of this wonderful idea. And if money is an issue, remember that cleaning up and painting mainly take elbow
Having creative storage is crucial if you want to maximize your space.
grease and time. If nothing else, you could hang sheets up to hide unsightly walls and tack them to the studs. Folding screens also can define a play area within the larger basement. Little girls love playing
dress-up, and you might take a sturdy appliance box or a moving wardrobe box and turn it into a dressing room. Goodwill is an excellent place to pick up fun shoes, handbags, scarves and jewelry for the girls. Buy a couple of old
desks so that the little kids can play “school,” and don’t forget a portable art easel. Remember that a garage is also a potential source of extra space. Obviously, the most critical improvement is the locking-away of any and
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all cleaning products, paints, solvents and other potentially dangerous materials. Tools, power cords and lawn products also should be safely stowed. If you can clear out a garage and add a venting window and lights and ensure your child’s safety, you might discover extra space without adding on to your existing home. A garage floor also can be painted or carpeted over and converted into clean space. The family that previously owned our home did just that in the double-car garage, which served as a family playroom. It’s fully finished and lined floor to ceiling with laminate cabinets, and the floor is covered in a gray industrial carpet. A large window allows natural light in, and drop-down schoolhouse lighting gives the garage an inviting look. Flexible thinking is the most important tool in the box when it comes to finding a way to give your children the space that they need.
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10 • Community Advocate • Fall Improvement Guide • Friday, October 5, 2012
Weatherize your house to avoid dealing with damage later Mother Nature seems to like getting dramatic these days, unleashing early blizzards, windstorms, hail, torrential rain, sleet and arctic blasts all across the country, now quite often in regions that are not used to such intense weather. Last fall, the northeast experienced a tremendously damaging early blizzard that hit when the leaves were still on the trees, snapping limbs and cutting out power for days. And the cold weather boosted home heating bills to the point of pain. So let’s take last fall and winter as a warning that Mother Nature could whip up some dangerous and damaging weather again this year. But this time you’ll be well prepared with preventive steps that can save you from having to deal with home damage and sky-high energy bills during the dead of winter. Take these steps to weatherize your home now: --Clean your gutters. For safety, hire a professional gutter-cleaning service that also can inspect your gutters
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--Insulate water pipes that may be close to freezing temperatures. A plumber can help you assess the pipes under your sink, in your bathrooms, in the basement and elsewhere. If there is not adequate wall insulation, say, between an exterior wall and a bathroom wall, the water pipes beneath your vanity could freeze, expand, burst and cause very expensive flooding. --Install carbon monoxide detectors or replace all the bat-
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teries in your existing ones. It’s wise to have these lifesaving detectors working optimally year-round, and it is especially important during storm power outages and floods that may create a CO2 situation in your home. Gas log fireplaces and portable heaters can give off carbon monoxide and cause tragedies when high-quality detectors are not used in a home. Also install top-quality fire detectors. Call your local fire department to schedule a free fire safety home inspection, in which their fire safety expert will assess your home and suggest products and placement for detectors. --Weatherize your windows. New energy-efficient windows are often made of two layers of insulating glass, and some states allow a tax write-off for their purchase. Older single-pane windows let in cold air, which could cost you heating bill money and perhaps get bad enough to freeze pipes. If you cannot afford new windows, consider installing storm windows. Caulk around windows, and if necessary, install large plastic insulation sheets over the entirety of drafty windows, using a hairdryer to seal the sheet according to package instructions. --Install a programmable thermostat. It will not only keep your home’s temperatures comfortable but also kick on while you’re away for a vacation or the holidays, warming up your home and preventing frozen pipes. --Install quality insulation. Either hire insulation experts or take a free seminar on insulation installation at your local home improvement store. Choose from energyefficient or organic insulation
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materials, and apply generous amounts in your attic and crawlspaces to keep your home’s heat in, which will help tremendously if you lose power for a few hours during a winter storm. --Have chimneys cleaned and inspected. During cold winter nights or storms, you might light a fire in your fireplace for light and heat, or just to enjoy the coziness. But be sure to have your chimney inspected for breaks in the brick flue, blockages such as animal nests, proper flue range of motion and the buildup of dangerous creosote that can cause house fires and other problems. This may be a pricey repair job if structural damage is found, but it’s a matter of life and death to get the cracks repaired -- or your fireplace will be unusable all season. --Have your furnace inspected, and repaired if needed, so that it can work efficiently during the cold winter months. Your inspector will tell you whether you need to move storage items farther from the furnace. Keeping items too close is a common cause of fires. --Have your driveway resurfaced now, or patch cracks with an asphalt kit. During winter, water can enter cracks, expand and create large cracks and gaps that will cause you to have to repave your entire driveway later. The same applies to pathways and inground pool surface areas. --Store firewood far from the house. Keep chopped wood at least 50 feet from your home to prevent termites and other insects from infesting your home and necessitating a costly fumigation project later. --Apply sealant to wood decks and rails. Extreme freezing/thawing cycles can damage wood planks without proper sealant, leading to splits and rotting. --Caulk around the seals of dryer vents, cable outlets and other spaces where cold air can get in. --Prepare an emergency kit that includes a radio, batteries, a first-aid kit, packaged foods, bottled water and other essential items in case you’re stuck in your home in dangerous weather, and buy waterproof tarps to have on hand to cover any damage to your car or home from fallen tree limbs.
Community Advocate • Fall Improvement Guide • Friday, October 5, 2012 • 11
Bathroom remodeling: It doesn’t need to be difficult or expensive After a few years of putting expensive home improvement projects on hold, homeowners are once again undertaking jobs such as remodeling their bathrooms. But homeowners can be overwhelmed by the almost infinite options, depending on their square footage, personal tastes and budget. Thankfully, designers and contractors are standing by, eager to help. Katherine MacNeil, a designer at NVS Kitchen and Bath, advises homeowners to first consider questions such as: “Do multiple people need to use the bathroom at the same time? Do you need two sinks? Do you need to be able to close off the bathroom because one of you wakes up early and one sleeps late? Does your bathroom need to include accessories for older users?” David Doughton, a designer with Kitchen and Bath Factory, says: “It helps, as a consumer, to do a little research on your own. ... There are a lot of great websites out there that are focused on picture galleries of renovation projects.” In particular, Doughton recommends houzz.com. Homeowners can then present their favorite pictures to their designers. MacNeil, however, warns homeowners not to be dismayed when they learn that “the tub in the picture is $12,000.” She advises them to go to tub and plumbing showrooms to get a better sense of what their dream bathroom may cost and to look for alternatives if price is an issue. Doughton tells homeowners not to be afraid of mentioning their budget upfront. Both MacNeil and Doughton say a designer should be able to help you cut costs by either changing the design plan or using alternative materials. MacNeil cautions homeowners, though, that not only is there a risk of an initial sticker shock but also a later one, if mold, mildew, water damage or electrical issues are discovered after renovations have begun. MacNeil and Doughton say most homeowners are looking for a bathroom that feels like a “retreat” and has a “relaxing, Zen or spa-like feel.” However, different homeowners have different opinions on what is relaxing. MacNeil says: “To one person, that could be airy,
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That way, you won’t go three weeks without a working bathroom while you wait for a backordered part. Lyle cautions homeowners to “know your limitations,” however. He continues, “I never recommend people tackle plumbing or electrical work themselves, because that’s where you really get in trouble.” Lyle suggests splitting the work with a contractor. “You can still save a great deal of money by sitting down with a contractor and going over what they do versus what you are willing to do.” Lastly, Lyle warns homeowners to increase their budget by an extra 15 percent to account for the cost of surprises. Remodeling your bathroom can be a complex and costly project, but it doesn’t have to be. Do your research, plan ahead, and work with professionals who can save you time and money. Then sit back and relax, and enjoy a nice soak or shower in your new bathroom.
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with white or pale colors. Another person’s idea of relaxing is river rock shower floors and dark cabinets.” MacNeil adds, “If they have the room, people like a shower big enough for two people, better storage space and two vanities with personalized space.” Doughton has noticed a trend toward “furniture-style cabinets. ... People want it to look a bit jazzier and dressed up, not a traditional cabinet. ... Something that is really popular is an open-shelf vanity.” Doughton also works in many colonial-style homes, so homeowners often ask for
black-and-white bathrooms. “Clients want to modernize the classic look of the original homes,” he says. “They’ll put a modern twist on it with contemporary fixtures.” For the homeowner who has a longer timeframe or who is looking to save money, consider DIY bathroom remodeling. Allen Lyle, co-host of the nationally syndicated television show “Today’s Homeowner” and the radio program “Homefront,” says homeowners need to start with a plan. “Talk to other people who have had work done; talk to your local homebuilders association; talk to the guy
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The Anatomy of a Septic Tank Avoiding costly repairs to your home’s wastewater treatment system If you own a home and are not on a public sewage system, chances are you have a private septic system. A septic system is composed of a septic tank and a leaching field that are connected together via large pipes. Septic systems have to be used and maintained properly in order to prevent major repair costs. The installation of a new leach field, for example, could cost upward of $25,000. Consequently, it is important to understand exactly how a properly maintained septic tank and leach field work to ensure that you do not inadvertently abuse them. In such a setup, wastewater exits the home and first enters a septic tank, where the solids are allowed time to settle to the bottom of the tank. The septic tank is a large, watertight, rectangular concrete structure that is buried into the ground relatively near the home. It is meant mainly for containing waste solids and somewhat clarifying wastewater prior to sending it on to the leach field for further cleansing. In order to separate the waste solids and liquids, a septic tank consists of two or more chambers. Wastewater that enters the septic tank first flows into the large chamber, which is twice the size of the other chambers in the septic tank. This is where most of the waste solids, or sludge, settle -- because there are no currents flowing in the septic tank. While the sludge sits in the bottom of the septic tank, anaerobic bacteria digest and decomposes the sludge. In the process, the bacteria produce methane and carbon dioxide, which need to be vented from the tank. Sometimes you may notice a small PVC pipe near the septic tank. This pipe is for venting the gases. Similarly, you may also notice a couple of larger “candy cane” PVC pipes over the leaching field. Again, they are to vent off methane gas. As the bacteria breaks down the sludge, it eventually becomes stabilized and ceases to decay any further. At that point, some of the sludge may begin to float and form a scum at the top of the septic tank. In the second chamber,
the wastewater is clarified, or purified, further. This water is referred to as graywater. The graywater then exits the septic the tank to the leaching field for final purification. The leaching field is a network of drainage pipes that are sandwiched between crushed stone and covered by topsoil. If needed, graywater can be pumped to the leaching field from a third chamber. Wastewater entering the septic tank can either be gravity-fed or pumped up from the home. It all depends upon the height of the septic tank inlet waste-pipe hole, relative to the height of the waste pipe exiting the home. A gravity-fed septic tank is preferred whenever possible. It eliminates the need for any type of pump, which could be susceptible to failure. Many a home has had its waste pump fail, causing wastewater to back up into the home. It’s not pretty. A septic tank is designed to maximize the time that bacteria and microorganisms are in contact with the sludge to enable faster digestion of it. Thus, inlet and outlet pipes are placed diagonal to one another. Also, the water is made to flow from one chamber to the other in vertically positioned pipes. This ensures that solids and larger particles are not transferred from one chamber to the other. The digestion and settling of solid organic matter continues to occur in the second chamber -- but the wastewater is in this chamber for approximately half the time of the first chamber, mainly because the second chamber is half the size of the first. The frequency of emptying solids from a septic tank varies with the number of occupants in the home and the size of the tank. The rule of thumb is that 0.05 cubic yards of sludge are produce per person, every year. Consequently, for the average family of four, plan to have the septic tank pumped every three to four years. You may be able to go one or two years longer, but you begin to risk the chance of sludge draining into the leach field. Again, replacing a leach field is a very expensive proposition, so it is wise not to wait too long to pump your septic tank.
Community Advocate • Fall Improvement Guide • Friday, October 5, 2012 • 13
Checking your chimney, Protecting your home Fall is the perfect time to schedule a professional checkup on your chimney. Over time, weather extremes, moisture and even wild animal nibbling and nesting can damage the structure of your chimney, causing perilous dangers inside and out. For instance, chimney leaks and water penetration cause rust in steel and cast iron, weakening or decomposing the metal parts. Some damages can cost a fortune down the road, and some pose serious fire threats and cause the buildup of toxic gases. If cracks and water intrusion are left to compromise your chimney and flue over time, a complete rebuild will be necessary. According to The Brick Industry Association, chimneys require special attention, inspections and maintenance to protect them from the elements. Your chimney is not just the lead-out for your fireplace. In some instances, it is the leadout for wood-burning stoves and your recently upgraded kitchen, as well. According to the National Fuel Gas Code, when a new appliance is installed into an existing system or an existing appliance is removed from a common vent, the entire venting system, which may include a masonry chimney, must conform to current codes. There are few fall home improvements as necessary as a thorough chimney check, and the trained professional eyes of a licensed chimney repair company will best advise you on your structural needs. Don’t make the mistake of trying to save money by re-mortaring the loose bricks you see and calling it a day. Many of the dangers are inside your chimney, and experts will send down cameras to locate the weaknesses and threats to be repaired. - Tuckpointing: The process of tuckpointing repairs the masonry mortar joints between your bricks to safeguard your structure from water intrusion and further structural weakness and damage. Expert application will repair your chimney’s weak points, returning your chimney to full security and aesthetic value. Your chimney even may return to a greater waterproof standard than it had when it was first built. Many homes are more than 50 years old, so the materials used in tuckpointing and masonry are vast improvements over those decades-old mortar mixtures. - Crumbling bricks: In ad-
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vanced stages of disrepair, the faces of some bricks may chip off and fall, posing injury threats and causing weakness in your chimney structure. When bricks flake, or “shale off,” the lessened thickness of the chimney wall allows cold drafts and perhaps even insects into your home. - Crown damage: The crown of your chimney is the concrete slab on top of your chimney. If this slab cracks, it can allow moisture to enter your chimney or home, causing expensive damage. A professional can assess whether your crown needs a simple seal repair with a fast-drying sealant or needs a complete replacement to fully protect your chimney’s structure and your home. As another reminder that today’s repair materials are far superior to the original mixtures used decades ago, modern sealants are now available in eco-friendly formulas. Some products offer warranties of 15 years or more. - Flashing repair: Flashing is the metal strip that connects the base of your chimney to your roofline. Flashing is immensely important, as it prevents water from seeping into this joint and entering your home. When flashing sections have warped or lifted, they require flashing seal. In extreme conditions, entirely new and improved flashing is warranted. - Post-repair or replacement sealant: On top of any chimney repair work, such as brickwork and tuckpointing, your professional chimney repair specialist will apply a waterproof sealant.
Ask questions about the type of sealant used, because some sealants have been found to dry into an unexpected hue. The most popular brands used by experts whose work is 100 percent guaranteed - meaning they don’t buy the cheap stuff - provide full waterproofing through their modified siloxane, which reacts with the minerals in the masonry materials, creating a waterproof quarter- to half-inch layer to protect your chimney. Top-end waterproofing sealants are VOC-compliant and even protect against UV damage and atmospheric moisture. They protect against stains and are mildew- and fungus-resistant, as well as formulated to protect in freeze-thaw conditions. Ask plenty of questions about the products your chimney repair team plans to use. It’s a terrible error simply to trust that repairmen are going to show up with the best products possible. Ask for the brand names of their materials, and research them online to be sure they waterproof from the outside and are 100 percent breathable, which means they allow water vapors formed when the chimney is in use to pass through the stone and escape into the air; they are not trapped, which would cause damage to the inside of your flue. Look for 100 percent vapor-permeable materials. And ask that chimney flue liners also conform to safety codes. Yes, chimney inspections and repairs are pricy, but they are worth every penny to protect your home and family.
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14 • Community Advocate • Fall Improvement Guide • Friday, October 5, 2012
Looking to sell: make your home THE home to buy Competition is fierce. Stroll down any neighborhood street and you probably will see at least one “House for Sale” sign. With so many choices, how can you make sure that a buyer will be drawn to your home at a price close to what you need? A big advantage for the home seller is that owning a home is still considered the American dream. A recent survey by Pew Research Cen-
ter reveals that 8 in 10 adults “agree that buying a home is the best long-term investment a person can make.” Most real estate agents will offer a standard list of basics to make your home more attractive, including clean up the clutter, improve the landscaping, wash your windows and screens, clean your gutter, get rid of smells in your home, shine doorknobs, and wipe
fingerprints off light switches. Now is the time you might want to consider renting a small storage unit to “hide” excess furniture, books, clothing or pots and pans. Don’t overlook making minor repairs, such as repairing driveway cracks and potholes and patching cracks in the walls, staircases, etc. Making sure that your lawn looks tidy will help to give the impres-
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sion that your home is wellcared-for. Even minor blemishes can make a house look in disrepair. Putting higher-wattage lighting in your fixtures will make your rooms look larger, airier and “fresher.” The real estate market is still in flux, according to Walter Molony, public affairs director at the National Association of Realtors. “We’re projecting existing-home sales to rise about 5 percent in 2011, with additional gains in 2012, but are expecting little movement in home prices because we’re still working off excess supply,” Molony said. “Conditions are expected to become more balanced next year as loan resets decline, but the timing of the recovery will vary greatly by market area - tied much to growth in jobs.” Molony also offers the following suggestions before you sell your home: - Get estimates from a reliable repairman on items that need to be replaced soon, e.g., a roof or worn carpeting; buyers will have a better sense of how much these needed repairs will affect their costs. - Have a termite inspection to prove to buyers that the property is not infested. - Get a pre-sale home inspection so you’ll be able to make repairs and eliminate prospective buyers’ concerns. - Gather together warranties and guarantees on the furnace, appliances and other items that will remain with the house. - Fill out a disclosure form provided by your Realtor. Take the time to be sure that you don’t forget problems, however minor, that might create liability for you after the sale.
Retailers know to offer exciting incentives to draw potential customers. If you are ready to list your home, consider offering incentives such as paying points or closing costs, homeowners fees, or pool or lawn maintenance for a season. A home warranty on appliances is another good inducement. It is recommended that you list your home with a reputable real estate agent rather than trying to do it yourself. Agents share listings, and people new to an area go to them for their expertise. Also, a conscientious real estate agent can offer you guidance in preparing your home for sale. Know your local market, and price your home competitively. Make your improvements and include incentives before listing; the longer you are on the market the less attractive your home becomes to prospective purchasers and the lower you will have to go in your asking price. Finally, Molony lists things to watch for in a purchase contract: - The closing date. - Date of possession. - Look for the largest earnest money deposit possible, because it is forfeited if the buyer backs out. - What items the buyer expects to remain with the property. - Requested repairs and their cost. - What the buyer wants to be met before the contract is final - e.g., inspections, selling a home, obtaining a mortgage or an attorney’s review of the contract. - How long you have to make a decision on the offer.
Community Advocate â&#x20AC;˘ Fall Improvement Guide â&#x20AC;˘ Friday, October 5, 2012 â&#x20AC;˘ 15
Supplement your heating system with free-standing gas fireplace Free-standing gas fireplaces add warmth to your home and are highly energy-efficient. In particular, a direct-vent gas stove is ideal for providing supplemental heat to a portion of your home. Free-standing gas fireplaces come in many sizes and can produce various levels of heat. Standalone gas fireplaces have come a long way in terms of their aesthetics. Many that are sold today have a beautiful enamel finish and a front window so that you can enjoy the warmth and charm of the gas flame. Others have terra-cotta or brushed metal finishes. Free-standing gas fireplaces are ideal for any type of home because of the fact that they are extremely safe and efficient and look beautiful anywhere. You can find them in the everyday suburbia home, mansions, cottages and even in city lofts. A standalone gas fireplace can be direct-vent or ventless; however, ventless types are not always allowed in homes or certain rooms within a home. Free-standing gas fireplaces
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16 • Community Advocate • Fall Improvement Guide • Friday, October 5, 2012
Color makeovers: Painting is not just for spring and summer In fall and winter, the days are getting shorter, the air cooler, and you’re spending more time indoors - which makes this the perfect time to tackle those room painting projects you didn’t get around to last spring. A great many homeowners think they’re limited to the cool spring season when they can open their windows to allow for fresh air circulation during painting, but interior designers say that fall and early winter still allow for the open-window solution without the risk. What’s the risk? Too-cold air wafting into a room can chill your paint supply - especially in the rolling pan - and make application difficult, streaky and perhaps unattractive. But before temperatures dip to a damaging extreme, there’s time to paint your rooms. Open windows in fall may let in a far more acceptable level of fresh air, especially when you’re avoiding the moisture of spring air and humidity of summer air. Choose your hues The rooms you spend time in can affect your mood. During the long, dark, cold winter
And designers also say that freshening your ceilings, moldings and chair rails with a fresh application of white or nearwhite paint gives a room an instant makeover that raises your spirits during the dark, bleak winter months.
Interior designers say that fall and early winter still allow for the open-window solution without the risk.
months, it’s far cheerier to spend time in a vibrant, energizing room - for example, one painted yellow, currently a very popular shade. If you rather would feel warm and cozy, your den or bedroom can soothe you in comforting shades of cappuccino or sage green. Visit the website of a popular paint retailer, to take a free “paint color personality” test, which will show you tones relating to specific emotions, e.g., energized, relaxed, romantic and more. You even can try different paint colors on images of room
layouts to choose the perfect combination for your wall and ceiling. And now, you can take a photo of a painting, a flower, a throw pillow or your favorite item of clothing, and some companies are able to show you an exact color match from the company’s collection. One secret of interior designers is to use lighter shades to make a small room appear larger and to reflect the sunlight that you do get in a room during the fall and winter months. Deeper, darker colors often make a room look smaller.
Choose your paint type A big trend in paint collections is low-VOC paint. It makes painting in fall and winter even more of a well-timed task because it emits fewer chemicals and odors, making it healthier to use indoors, especially with small children in the house who have asthma or allergies. Several major brands’ eco-friendly paint lines have been tested by Consumer Reports and other notable product assessment companies, so check online for the latest news in VOC-free or low-VOC paints. Bear in mind that these special formulas will cost a bit more than traditional paints, but you may find the health benefits and the lack of fumes to be worth the investment. Pick your time An important factor in fall/
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winter painting is choosing the right time of day. When you’re painting with alkydor latex-based paint, allow three to four hours of drying time at recommended drying temperatures before nightfall to prevent evening moisture from affecting wet paint. Choose who’s painting During fall and winter, many professional painting companies are more available to take on your more challenging painting jobs, such as rooms with vaulted ceilings. Investigate expert paint companies well, and ask your friends and neighbors whom they hired to get the job done quickly, efficiently, with attention to detail and with eco-friendly materials and methods. And always hire licensed professionals who have insurance. Invite friends over for a painting party, after which food can be served. Supervise and help children to paint their own rooms, which gives a sense of ownership and pride, as well as wonderful memories of a colorful family project.