Spring
Special Supplement APRIL 1, 2011
2 • Community Advocate • Spring Home Improvement • Friday, April 1, 2011
Exterior House Painting It’s all about the weather Exterior house painting is one of the most difficult projects to schedule and complete from a weather perspective. To complete the job, you must have an ambient air temperature of between 50 F and 90 F and low humidity, and there should be little to no wind while you’re painting. If you decide to tackle an exterior house painting project outside of these weather conditions, chances are the paint will not hold up well. Give yourself the best chance of having Mother Nature smile down on your painting project by not starting in an unsuitable climate. In general, July and August are two of the worst months of the year to paint a house; the house siding is simply too hot to paint. Cold weather causes paint quality issues, and the
spring is often too rainy and humid. Therefore, the early summer months, before it gets too hot, and autumn are often your only opportunities to paint. The do-it-yourself homeowner who chooses to do his own exterior house painting often finds himself tackling it in a guerilla warfare-type approach - painting portions of the home over an extended period of time as weather conditions permit. In order to avoid prolonging your painting project, consider throwing a weekend exterior house painting party, where friends and family are called in for a weekend of painting and cookouts. The only problem with this approach is that often more than just the house is painted. There are also some liability concerns
if someone falls off a ladder - and even more so if he was served alcohol while attending the party. For the best exterior house painting results, it is wise to hire a contractor who has a team that can paint a home quickly. Although they, too, are at the whim of Mother Nature, they at least have the ability to paint the house rapidly. In addition, they won’t paint your car or themselves in the process. If you are building a new home, you could make your life easier by using pre-primed or painted house siding, which widens the weather window for applying a final coat of exterior paint. Or you could use vinyl or brick for the house siding, which would eliminate the need for any significant exterior house painting.
Community Advocate • Spring Home Improvement • Friday, April 1, 2011 • 3
Spring Lawn Care A little care goes a long way when preparing your lawn to look its best for the season Last week was the first time in months for many of us to catch a glimpse of our lawns since before Christmas. The warm weather brought the dog outside to start digging and my children outside to play ball… a sure sign that spring is around the corner! As we exit winter hibernation, so do our yards. It’s safe to say a little care goes a long way when preparing your lawn to look its best for the season. To begin you should go outside and breath in the beautiful fresh air while you remove all the broken limbs that have fallen onto your lawn. After the wind storms we had this winter there certainly are branches to be picked up everywhere. Removing the branches makes it easier to hand rake the entire lawn. If your yard is too large for raking, consider renting a mechanical dethatcher. This will help the lawn breath as well as bring excess turf grass thatch to
the surface. Removing the thatch is a must, we suggest bringing the material to a composting facility. Remember to clean your shrub beds of left over leaves, debris and broken limbs from the fall. Be careful of delicate plants like Cut Leaf Japanese Maples, you don’t want to break healthy branches
when removing the damaged or broken ones. The next step is to edge the beds, using a half moon hand edger is a great way to create a sharp clean edge. Go along the existing beds edge and redefine the lawn and bed definition by rounding out curves and straight-
ening out other areas as needed. Create a crisp edge by making a five inch depth difference between the grass and the bottom of the bed. Its best to angle up from the bottom to the planting bed. Remove the excess material from the bed, do not put it back in the bed or around plants as it could lead to suffocation. After the shrub bed or garden is completely prepared, it’s time to think about mulch. Determine the condition and depth of the existing mulch in your beds. Our suggestion is to remove the old mulch each year and apply new mulch to the clean beds. Before you spread the new mulch, we recommend applying a weed pre-emergent. Applying the pre-emergent at this time greatly reduces the amount of weeds in your beds. After the preemergent is applied, spread the mulch. Make your color selection whether it be brown, black, red or
wood chips. The recommended depth is 3”. Now your beds will look beautiful! As the lawn is now clean and free of debris, it’s time to apply a high quality spring pre-emergent weed control with fertilizer. This will help prevent turf grass weeds before they begin. By doing this your lawn will flourish faster and be on the right track for a healthy year. If chemicals on your property are a concern, go green and apply an organic fertilizer such as one made from compost tea or one derived from bone meal, feather meal and kelp meal. The only thing left to do is pull out a lawn chair, sit back, enjoy the view and be proud of all your hard work. This information was provided by The Veron Company located in Marlborough. To reach them, call 508-485-4884 or visit www. theveroncompany.com.
4 • Community Advocate • Spring Home Improvement • Friday, April 1, 2011
Clean House 101 Make it shine, and get it done quickly Realistically, it should take just a few hours to clean a typical family home. The key to speeding up the process? It’s all in the preparation. With the right game plan, you - and your family - can get the job done in a short amount of time. Follow these four steps for a shipshape home in less time: 1) Conquer Clutter First: It may seem counterintuitive to clean before you clean, but a quick sweep through the house to return stray items to their rightful places makes for quick and easy work. “Cleaning consists of two separate tasks: organizing and cleaning. Before you can really clean, you have to get the clutter under control,” says Christine Shuck, author of “Get Organized, Stay Organized.” Instead of stopping the vacuum every few minutes to put the kids’ shoes away or trying to dust around that stack of unread magazines on the coffee table, tidy up before you buckle down. Put away the clean laundry; toss the newspapers in the recycle bin; and get the toiletries back in the medicine cabinet. “It’s amazing how much clutter a few people can generate. The day before cleaning, have the kids put away their toys, gather their dirty clothes and strip their beds,” Shuck says. “Call it the pre-clean stage. After the clutter is under control, then the cleaning can begin.” 2) Work Systematically: Map out a cleaning route before you begin. Whether you clean room-by-room or task-by-task,
be consistent and stick to the plan. Work top to bottom, left to right, and don’t retrace your steps. To speed up the process, take all of the necessary cleaning supplies with you as you move from room to room. “You can save a lot of time when you assemble all the cleaning products and tote them around with you from room to room as you go. This way, they’re all right there when you need them. Sounds simple, but it’s a huge timesaver,” says Tess Whitehurst, author of “Magical Housekeeping: Simple Charms and Practical Tips for Creating
a Harmonious Home.” Take an empty laundry basket with you, as well. Anything that needs to be returned to another room goes in the basket. When the whole house is clean, spend an extra five minutes putting those errant items away. 3) Limit Distractions: You stop to wash the dishes, and suddenly you just spent two hours on the phone with your mom. It’s easy to let time slip away when tending to housework, so set some parameters. “An average-size house should take about two hours from top to bottom for one Continued on page 6
Community Advocate • Spring Home Improvement • Friday, April 1, 2011 • 5
The Deck Common wood decking problems and solutions Your deck takes a lot of abuse from the elements. Rain, snow and the sun can work together to destroy your outside living space if left unchecked. It is extremely important to address wood decking problems as soon as they are observed. Wood decking problems left unchecked can lead to higher maintenance and home repair costs down the road. Wood Deck Water Sealing After building a new wood deck, it is important to seal it quickly with a stain, paint or water sealer. Even the hardest woods can quickly begin to experience the effects of nature’s elements, such as rot, mildew and bleaching. By applying a protective layer to your wood decking, you can lock in its initial beauty and prolong the life of it. Unfortunately, a wood deck needs constant maintenance,
and even though you may have applied a water sealant over the decking when you initially built it, you will need to apply additional coats every year or two. Before applying a new coat of paint, stain or deck water sealant, it is imperative that the deck be thoroughly washed and dried. Also make sure you have checked the weather forecast. The forecast should be free of rain for a couple of days, and the temperature should be at least 50 F when you apply a new coat of deck water sealant or paint. Flaking Decks With water sealants and paint, your deck could experience flaking. Before you apply a new coat of paint or decking water sealant, it is important that you remove all of the flaking paint or sealant first. Pressure washers can help make the job go quickly, but Continued on following page
6 • Community Advocate • Spring Home Improvement • Friday, April 1, 2011
Common wood decking problems and solutions Continued from previous page
unfortunately, they can damage the grain of the wood decking. Consequently, it is best to use a scraper and elbow grease to remove the flaking paint. Once you have scraped off the flaking paint, lightly sand the decking prior to applying a new coat of paint or water sealant. Fading or Bleached Wood Decking If your mahogany decking is looking faded or bleached out, try using a wood cleaner to restore it to its original color. After restoring its original color, seal it with a clear water decking sealant. Again, you will need to reseal it every year or two. Alternatively, you can apply a stain that matches the original color of the wood. Rotting Decking Rotting decking is associated with water problems. Either the water sealant, paint or stain has failed prematurely or you have a water source, such as a gutter,
that is spilling and causing water to stand regularly on the deck. Frequent standing water on the deck can lead to rot and the infestation of carpenter ants and termites. If there is deck rot, it is important to replace it to prevent a dangerous safety hazard. While replacing the rotted deck pieces, check the deck framing underneath it to make sure it is still structurally sound. Deck Mold and Mildew You also may need to wash your deck regularly with a fungicide solution that can prevent and eliminate mold and mildew. Decks located on the northern side of a home are frequently susceptible to mold and mildew. Likewise, decks that have gutters or roofs constantly spilling onto them are susceptible to mold and mildew. Make sure that your gutters drain either through the deck down to the ground below or away from it, to cut down on moisture. If water is running
directly off the roof, you might consider installing gutters. With these few basic deck maintenance tips, you should be able to preserve the beauty and life of your wood decking
for years to come. The most important thing to remember is that when a deck problem is observed, it should be addressed quickly. The effects of water damage can occur rapidly and
can lead to higher maintenance costs later if left unchecked. Finally, keep in mind that a deck is an important asset to your home’s valuation, so it is important to keep it up.
Clean House 101: Make it shine Continued from page 4
person to clean,” Shuck says. “It takes longer because of distractions - the computer, the kids, the phone, paperwork, the need to eat. Eliminate the distractions; focus on the task at hand and it will get done quickly.” Vow to work free of interruptions. Set a timer, and pop in your favorite CD. Commit to cleaning nonstop for just one hour. Have the kids pitch in with the understanding that the video games, television and texting will have to wait -- and hold yourself to the same standard. Don’t stop to answer the phone. Don’t check your e-mail. Don’t make unnecessary
trips back and forth between rooms. Just focus on the task at hand. 4) Do Your Daily Chores: Once you have a “clean slate,” keep it that way. “You have to keep on top of the daily mess. Every day bust some clutter and some dirt. If you have a clean field to vacuum, dust and wipe down each week, it isn’t so overwhelming,” says Marni Jameson, author of “House of Havoc: How to Make -- and Keep -- a Beautiful Home Despite Cheap Spouses, Messy Kids, and Other Difficult Roommates.” Spend 10-20 minutes each evening doing a sweep through
the house. Toss out the junk mail and newspapers; tend to the dirty dishes; wipe the kitchen counters; clear off the family desk; and return the television remote control to its rightful place. Ask the kids to put their toys and backpacks away, and be sure everyone puts dirty clothes in a hamper. Designate an area for recyclables, and use it. Collect unwanted items in a central location, and donate them to the thrift shop each month. “Make sure your whole family gets on board with the plan for household order,” Jameson says. “If you’re the only one committed, it won’t work.”
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Spring to Fall A month-to-month guide to garden maintenance With spring flowing in like a green wave, gardeners are reaching for their tools as the endless cycle of renewal and growth plays out in our yards. While it may mean sevenhour days working in her garden beds, Nancy Crawford never tires of toiling in the soil. “I look forward to new growth and seeing flowers performing at different times of the year,” she said. Crawford has been gardening for more than 40 years. She is a master gardener, a certified landscape design critic and flower show judge. Crawford has provided month-by-month tips on maintaining gardens.
APRIL
- Garden cleanup: Cut down any remaining perennials and grasses; trim back ground covers; rake leaves out of beds.
- Apply crabgrass retardant to lawn early in April if needed. - Prune spring flowering shrubs after they bloom. Remove spent blossoms from bulbs, but keep leaves until they turn yellow. - Prune type 2 and type 3 clematis down to 6 inches where new growth is showing. Feed with balanced fertilizer. Water in. - Do rejuvenation and other pruning on shrubs that need it. - Divide perennials; apply organic matter to new hole. - Do major pruning of roses, if needed; remove old mulch and feed. - Feed garden beds with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10), following package directions. This will be sufficient to feed Continued on following page
8 • Community Advocate • Spring Home Improvement • Friday, April 1, 2011
Spring to Fall Continued from previous page
plants for the entire season. Do not feed ornamental grasses. - Check asparagus and rhubarb for first picking. - In late April, sew directly in the garden: radishes, carrots, Swiss chard, beets, lettuce, turnips and the first planting of sweet corn. - Apply a pre-emergent herbicide to garden beds, as soil temperature is conducive to weed growth.
MAY
- Apply first fertilization to lawn around Mother’s Day. - After Mother’s Day, plant annuals. Water in until soil is soaked. Do not water again until plants almost wilt. - After danger of frost, plant tubers of caladiums, cannas, dahlias and tuberoses. Set stakes when planting tall dahlias before backfilling. - After planting new shrubs, water every other day for about three weeks (unless there is lots of rain; adjust accordingly).
- Sow green beans and plant tomato and pepper plants. - Make first planting of gladiolus corms; then plant additional corms every seven to 10 days until middle of August. - As hosta “pips” are emerging, it is the best time to divide. - Apply herbicides to eliminate broadleaf weeds such as dandelion, plantain or knotweed. For creeping Charlie or violets, call a lawn service that has stronger herbicides than are available to consumers. - As pines are “candling,” pinch candles one-half inch to restrict size or create a fuller, bushier tree. - Watch for green caterpillars (sawfly larvae) on pine needles. They can defoliate a branch in a day. Spray off with hose. - Apply a fungicide to roses if they have been troubled by black spot in the past.
JUNE
- After roses have finished their first flush of blooms, apply a cupful of 10-10-10 around each plant. Apply a fungicide every 10 days if prone to black
spot. Also use an insecticide if you notice holes in the leaves. - Daffodils can be moved after the foliage has yellowed. Place 1 tablespoon of bulb fertilizer in hole before planting. - Apply 10-10-10 alongside dahlias and gladiolus. - Stop picking asparagus as the weather warms up. Fertilize asparagus and let plants continue to grow to ensure a good crop next year. Fertilize with 1010-10 at a rate of two pounds per 100 square feet. - Around Father’s Day, apply a second fertilization to the lawn. Water in well. If you have a thick turf, you will have few weeds. Spot treat as needed. - Stake plants that flopped last year. The plants will grow, and supports will be hidden. - Tie staked tomatoes. Tuck shoots of caged tomatoes so the plant stays in the cage. - While weather is cool, harvest peas, cabbage and broccoli. Pull green bunching onions as you need them. - Plant pumpkin seeds in June to have pumpkins by Halloween.
JULY
- Japanese beetles make their appearance. If you have a few, pick them off. If you have many, spray plant with Sevin. - Shrubs and trees have finished growing for the year, so don’t fertilize. Water 1 inch per week if there is no rainfall. - Trim yews and junipers. - Cut back yarrow, columbine, dianthus and catmint so they may rebloom. Removing spent blooms on your clematis vine may produce more blooms in August and September. - Blueberries and raspberries are ready for harvesting. Pick them as soon as they are ripe, before the birds get them. - If the year has been dry,
be sure to water your lawn and garden. If roses do not get enough water they will harden off (flowering will decrease and flowers will get smaller). Hostas respond better to water than to fertilizer. Next year’s growth will be smaller if they have a severe lack of water in the summer months. Both of these types of plants require at least 1 inch of water per week. - Bluegrass goes dormant in the heat of summer and can survive without water for two weeks. However, it does need an inch of water every two to three weeks to survive. - Spray, dust and pick off cucumber beetles and squash borers on summer squash, cucumbers and melons. Watch for white cabbage butterflies; spray with Bt (bacillus thuringiensis). - About July 15, plant zucchini and cucumbers.
AUGUST
- Water shrubs and trees deeply (unless it’s been a rainy summer). - Plant lettuce, beans and radishes for harvest around frost. Lettuce and spinach can
be planted in pots so rabbits can’t destroy them. Insects will be more of a problem now than in the spring. - Shear hedges one last time early in the month. - Deadhead marigolds, petunias and other annuals for continuous bloom. Cut back petunias and other annuals if they have grown leggy. - Divide iris, bleeding heart, Oriental poppy, phlox and peony plants. Amend soil and replant. - Divide day lilies. If blooms are sparse compared to foliage, it is time to divide. Stella Del Oro must be divided every few years for best bloom. - If day lily foliage looks ragged, cut down, water well, and in a few weeks you will have a fresh-looking plant. - Check tomatoes for cracks and blossom end rot. To solve this problem, add more mulch to conserve moisture and water deeply. Apply a side dressing of manure, compost or 10-10-10. - Continue to remove weeds. If you can prevent weeds from reseeding, each year the garden will become more weedContinued on following page
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Spring to Fall Continued from previous page
free. - Work bone meal in soil around herbaceous peonies. Tree peonies prefer being fed a weak solution of fish/seaweed fertilizer every three weeks until one month before first frost. - The lawn takes priority in late August. This is the best time to aerate. (There aren’t as many weed seeds to germinate in the holes as in the spring.) This is the best time to reseed or establish a new lawn. It’s also the time to give the lawn its third feeding. Water in well. - This is the worst month for insects. They are full -grown and in great number. Treat problems immediately.
SEPTEMBER
- Let plants acquire dormancy on their own. Do not feed, prune, or water excessively. - On established shrubs, limit pruning to removing diseased, damaged or broken
stems. Late pruning may stimulate soft growth, which won’t harden off for winter. - Keep broccoli florets picked to keep encouraging plants to produce new growth. - Trim back oregano, basil and chives; then pot up and (after new growth has begun) bring indoors. - Bring tropical plants indoors if temperatures drop at night below 45 degrees. First wash off leaves with a hose; spray with insecticide as least two times (one week apart) before bringing inside. - Mulch can revive large mature trees, especially oaks. Mulch under the entire branch spread, if possible. Make sure mulch is several inches away from trunk so rodents can’t nest and eat bark of the tree. - Plant daffodils in late September or early October. They need to be planted earlier than tulips because if daffodils don’t have time to form roots before the soil freezes, they will rot. - Continue deadheading annuals for bloom and perennials such as phlox so they don’t go to seed.
10 • Community Advocate • Spring Home Improvement • Friday, April 1, 2011
Looking Up Give your room a fresh look with a finished ceiling Looking for a way to finish off that room? Look up. Whether painted, wallpapered or stenciled, a finished ceiling gives any room a fresh look for not a lot of money. “A ceiling that completes and makes the space sing makes a big statement,” says John Kelsey, co-founder of Wilson Kelsey Design, an awardwinning residential and commercial interior design firm. “I recently completed a very modern galley kitchen. During construction, we kept looking at the flat ceiling and feeling as if it wasn’t quite right. We mocked up an arched ceiling, and the kitchen came alive. The space went from ordinary to extraordinary.” Take your own room from ordinary to extraordinary with a new hue. A simple coat of paint is perhaps the quickest, most dramatic fix for do-it-
I recently completed a very modern galley kitchen. During construction, we kept looking at the flat ceiling and feeling as if it wasn’t quite right. We mocked up an arched ceiling, and the kitchen came alive. The space went from ordinary to extraordinary. John Kelsey yourselfers on a budget. “The quickest DIY fix is to use paint - and add a touch of “pearlescence” to the paint. This will make the ceiling glow,” Kelsey says. Look for interior latex with a pearl finish or pearlescent gloss that can be applied as a second coat. It’s less intense
than a high-gloss finish, but the extra shimmer makes paint pop. When choosing colors, consider the overall vibe of the room. Lighter and brighter shades make rooms feel open and airy, whereas warmer, darker hues create a cozy, intimate space.
“Choose your paint in the context of the effect or feeling you’re trying to achieve in the room,” Kelsey explains. “A lighter color will tend to ‘lift’ the ceiling, making the room feel larger, while a darker color will tend to ‘lower’ the ceiling, making it feel smaller.” Accent With Architecture If the idea of color on the ceiling makes you cringe, opt for a few architectural details paired with crown molding for extra drama. “If the room is traditional, consider a ceiling medallion or rosette, particularly if there is a chandelier in the room,” Kelsey says. “Another effective trick is to paint a border that extends onto the ceiling, matching the color of the crown molding.” For more rustic rooms, wood beams are an attractive
- yet often pricey - option. Numerous companies offer less expensive synthetic beams, but crafty homeowners can create their own faux beams with materials found at the local lumberyard. “If you have your heart set on beams but can’t afford the cost, a series of simple flat boards edged in decorative trim can be a very cost-effective alternative,” Kelsey says. Add Texture Like walls, ceilings often benefit from a boost of texture, and it’s easy to get the look you want with wallpaper. “Many people forget about decorating the ceiling. Highlight this typically forgotten area with wallpaper that coordinates with the rest of the furnishings in the room,” says Paula Berberian, creative serContinued on following page
Community Advocate • Spring Home Improvement • Friday, April 1, 2011 • 11
Give your room a fresh look with a finished ceiling Continued from previous page
vices manager for Brewster Home Fashions, a leading manufacturer and distributor of wallpaper and wall art. “Wallpaper on a ceiling adds color, depth, design and dimension. Whether you add a pleasing print to create a cottage feel, a metallic wallpaper to add shimmer or a paintable wallpaper for texture and dimension, it will have everyone who enters the room looking up.” Anaglypta wallpapers sometimes called “paintables” - are the most versatile. The three-dimensional papers come in a wide variety of designs, from patterns that mimic tin ceilings to textured scrollwork and contemporary facades. “What’s great about these products is that they are truly paintable,” Berberian explains. “You can leave them white or paint them with any color of your choosing. They also hide surface imperfections like cracks, are affordable and are easy to hang.”
Go Custom Hand-painted ornamental ceilings and overhead murals also make a big statement. “The ‘wow’ factor is bestachieved with hand-painted artistry,” says Michael Boudreault, decorative finish specialist and mural painter. Get the look yourself with self-adhesive vinyl stencils from companies such as the Modello Design Group (www.ModelloDesigns.com). Its Decorative Masking Patterns can be used with paint, stain, glaze, plaster and other mediums for a range of textures and styles, and using the company’s vast ornamental library, homeowners can create one-of-a-kind designs for that custom look. “Pick a color that is one or two shades lighter than your wall,” Boudreault says. “Colors always appear darker on the ceiling because of the way most lights are situated, so it’s best to go lighter than you think. Hand-painted ceilings should always complement or
show off an interesting space, not overpower it.” Think Ahead There’s one caveat to ceiling upgrades: If you plan on selling soon, keep it simple. Though a finished ceiling can add appeal, buyers may not have the same taste in decor, so subtle is better. Opt for a look with broad and long-lasting appeal, lest your expensive upgrade be ripped out by the next owner. “Custom treatments are very personal, and most treatments do not appraise into the value of the home unless they are unique to the architecture of the ceiling and the home as a whole,” Boudreault says. “It is still very much a buyer’s market,” Kelsey says. “A home whose ceilings are in good repair and freshly painted may not necessarily have a higher resale value, but it will enhance the impression that the home is in move-in condition and may help shorten the time on the market.”
12 • Community Advocate • Spring Home Improvement • Friday, April 1, 2011