Why rabbits fight

By Emma Purnell, RVN Cert.Nut.

The new microchipping rules mean all cats must be implanted with a microchip before they reach the age of 20 weeks.

The law changes on 10 June 2024 so any owners found not to have microchipped their cat by then could face a fine of up to £500.

Nina explains everything you need to know:

What is a microchip?

A microchip is a very small device - about the size of a grain of rice, that contains a unique number linking a pet to their owner. The microchip is implanted under the skin between the shoulder blades using a needle. It takes just a few seconds.

Once microchipped, owner contact details and the pet’s unique identification chip number are stored in a pet microchipping database to help reunite lost, stolen or injured pets with their owners as quickly as possible. It is important that owners should keep these details updated if they move house or change their contact details.

Here at PDSA, we have always recommended that where possible pets are microchipped. It has been a legal requirement for dogs since 2016 and we’re happy to see the laws changing for more of our furry family members.

Does

microchipping hurt?

Many pets barely react to being microchipped as the area of skin where implantation is done is near the ‘scruff’ of the neck, between the shoulder blades, where the skin tends to be looser; this is despite the needle looking larger than a vaccination needle, for example.

Like any injection, microchipping can cause a small amount of discomfort, but fortunately it’s a very quick procedure that takes just a few seconds and a tasty treat afterwards is likely to quickly distract them if they do become upset.

Microchips are made out of non-reactive materials, so once it’s in place it shouldn’t hurt or cause them any problems throughout their life.

Where can I get my pet microchipped?

Microchips can only be implanted by vets, veterinary nurses, and people who have been specially trained. Most owners get their pets microchipped at the vets, but if you go elsewhere (such as a rescue centre or grooming parlour), it’s important to make sure the person chipping your pet is qualified to do it and can provide evidence that they’ve completed a DEFRA approved training course and received their certificate of competence.

How do I register my pet’s microchip?

The professional that microchips your pet may pass your details to your microchip database company and register your details, or they may provide you with the documentation, so that you can register your pet yourself. To register your details they will need your name, address, phone number, pet’s details, email address and alternative emergency contact telephone numbers.

How long do microchips last?

Microchips are hard wearing and should last for your pet’s lifetime. It’s incredibly unusual for them to break or become faulty, but in the very rare case that one fails (meaning it can’t be read by a scanner anymore) you can get a replacement fitted. There is no need to remove the old faulty chip, your vet can simply place the new chip in alongside it. More commonly, microchips can move a small distance away from where they are implanted but this doesn’t hurt, it very rarely causes problems and the chip will still be picked up if it’s scanned.

What should I do if I re-home or sell my pet?

If you re home or sell a pet, you need to contact their microchip database company to let them know. They will give you a form or code to pass on to your pet’s new owner enabling them to change the details on the microchip. This process is designed to prevent people from changing a pet’s microchip details without the owner’s permission (i.e. if they were stolen).

For more information visit pdsa.org.uk/cats

Rabbits are highly social animals who, in the wild, depend on company to survive. Without companions, they have increased levels of stress and anxiety as well as being unable to display normal behaviours. It is recommended that all rabbits are kept with a bonded companion, but it isn’t always that easy! Sometimes rabbit bonds break down and fights can occur – but why does this happen and what can we do to avoid it? Hormones are a key reason for tensions and bonds breaking down. In a warren, rabbits must compete to breed and try to breed as much as possible. In a home environment, unneutered males or females will have that same urge and therefore treat any unneutered rabbit of the same sex as a rival and any of a different sex as a mate. This will lead to chasing, nipping, humping and in severe circumstances full fights – not to mention unwanted litters. Males are well known to attempt to castrate rival males. There is an easy answer to hormonal aggression and that is early neutering of both sexes. Providing both behavioural as well as numerous health benefits including prevention of common cancers, all rabbits should ideally be neutered from 4-5 months of age. Initial bonding of any rabbits should always take place in neutral territory. Rabbits can be very possessive of their environments as it is their safe space, adding in any potential threat – including new rabbits – will lead to an aggressive response. Neutral territory can include any space that neither rabbit has been in before. Small spaces can be recommended in some bonding techniques, with top access to remove any individuals as needed, as this can help prevent fights while they get used to each other. Some techniques also place them under stress to try to force a bond due to a need for comfort and support, but these should be carried out with care. There are calming products on the market that are safe for use in rabbits, including Nutracalm.

Once rabbits are bonded, separation can potentially damage or destroy any bond, especially if their smell changes. This is particularly of note if one of them becomes ill and must go to the vet. Illness itself can be a reason for bonds to break down and sudden behaviour changes or aggression that is unexpected should lead to a vet check to rule out any health causes. Ideally, any vet visit should include all rabbits in a bonded group and if hospitalisation for treatment or surgery is needed then all rabbits should be kept together as much as possible. Rabbit savvy vets should encourage bonded rabbits to be kept together, if your vet insists on them being separated it is worth checking the RWAF rabbit vet list to make sure they are included. Similarly, while post-operative care may include the healing of wounds and care must be taken to ensure there is no interference from companions, separating them can cause major problems to their bond.

Spring fever is a term used for a surge in behaviours, normally hormonal, which can occur throughout spring – the usual time for mating and reproducing. It normally involves chasing and humping behaviours and can occur in both male and females, even those that are neutered. It doesn’t occur in all rabbits but can lead to squabbles and even fights if the chasing is persistent. Most of the time this settles after a few months but must be monitored.

Making the decision to separate rabbits can be hard, especially if they have bonded, but each individual’s safety must be taken into account. If after a long period they are constantly stressed or tense, this can have severe long-term effects on their health and separation should be considered. Equally, if any fight occurs that leads to breaking of the skin, separation is advised to allow for them to recover, before carefully attempting rebonding.

Rebonding rabbits can be difficult and each pair must be assessed to decide if it’s the best option. If fighting has occurred, care must be taken to ensure they are not placed in a situation where they can immediately fight again, considering housing them alongside each other for a period ensuring they cannot injure each other to judge their response. If aggression is shown it must be considered if this bond is the best thing for the rabbits. Bonding can take time, and rebonding even longer. Although it may feel like it, giving up on a bond between two rabbits is not a failure – some individuals will never get on in the same way that two people might not – trying to find another individual to bond them with could allow them a much less stressful and happier life.

Emma qualified as a Veterinary Nurse in 2008 and works for Nutravet (UK) Ltd. She has a BSc in Zoology with Animal Ecology and an MSc in Ecology, helping to fuel her interest in more exotic species. She has a particular love of small furries and has a grade A distinction in Canine and Feline Clinical Nutrition (CertNut).