STYLEBOOK | 001
002 | STYLEBOOK
STYLEBOOK | 003
CONTENTS 004 008 012
the twenties the thirties the forties
020 022 024 026
the eighties
the nineties the present
014
the fifties
016
the sixties
028
bibliography
018
the seventies
029
CONTRIBUTORS
define: culture
004 | STYLEBOOK
STYLEBOOK | 005
the
twenties
During the First World War, socio economic changes occured, which in turn universally changed the role of women. Women’s liberation was transcendent in their clothing. Younger generations had decided to leave behind oppressive and conservative fashion that the older generations preferred, such as wearing corsets and tight dresses. Fashion in the 1920s predominantly surrounded comfort. Women wore shapeless shift dresses, sported flat chests, and wore their hair short and sleek. Additionally, they would often smoke with a long cigarette holder, wear makeup and applied it in public, and expose their limbs. They essentially exemplified the spirit of a reckless rebel that danced the night away in the Jazz Age. Throughout history, it is often said that fashionable clothing was unattainable for those in the middle and lower classes. However, since the construction of the flapper’s dress was not as complicated as earlier designs, womenwere successful in creating their dresses at home. The flapper fashion thrived in the middle classes, and the fact that they dressed similarly
to the upper class essentially nullified their differences. It did also, however, continue to highlight their differences with the extremely poor. Wealthy women remained wearing beautifully embellished silk garments for the evenings, however the consensus basked in their sophistication by wearing very fashionable flapper clothing. In the naissance of flapper fashion, in the years 1926 to 1928, skirts were initially more revealing. They were hiked up above the knee, which was controversial at the time, and it was only when women wore evening dresses. Proceeding this period, dresses and coat lengths became calf length and and relatively long. Hemlines during the twenties steadily rose and fell. Initially in 1913, the hemline had begun to show a little ankle. Between 1916 and 1929, hemlines rose, faltered, and subsequently rose again. Calf length dresses in 1918 in comparison to those in 1920 has shown a definitive drop, however the length remains at the calf area. In 1919, skirt lengths fell to their calves. And between 1920 and 1924, skirts remained calf length with fluctuations of an inch or two.
On the left; model Katarina Lopez is wearing a white shapeless shift dress, which was common in this era. She is also seen smoking a cigarette, just like the women in the 1920s.
006 | STYLEBOOK
STYLEBOOK | 007
008 | STYLEBOOK
the
thirties
In the 1930s, women had decided to revive a more genteel, ladylike fashion. They accentuated rounded busts and waistline curves with their clothing, and were seen with their hair softer as hair perms improved. Their clothes were described as feminine, sweet, and tidy by day with a return to real glamour by evening. Wealthy women before the 1930s often wore luxurious clothing at all times of the day, and didn’t feel the need to wear practical day clothing. This was because as long as their maids took care of the chores, the designated day styles would be impractical. However, this
period reformed this notion because women began to live more productive lifestyles. Women decided to leave their glamorous gowns, made with metallic lame, for the evening.
Womens’ skirts tended to be longer at the back rather than the front. Pleats and godets were inset to panels from below the knee and these insets gave more fullness at the hemline. Their hemlines had reached the bottom of the calf within a year. Part of their appeal was often the draping fabric that was further intensified by cutting fabrics on the true cross or the bias grain also quite fashionable at the start of the decade.
The thirties is the era of revolutionized fabrics. They utilised new improved fabrics such as rayon that had several finishes and effects that allowed designers to employ it however they wish. Chanel also used cheap fabric in their designs, and suddenly it was considered more than a cheap fabric for work clothes. However, pure silk was still the most luxurious fabric used during the thirties. It was best for capturing the folds and drapes of the couture. Fine wool crepes were also used to mold the body and fall into intricate godets and pleats.
STYLEBOOK | 009
In this image, model Marian Rivera displays a very classic and vibrant 30s dress. One might see a woman in the 30s wearing this in the evening, when ladies would truly parade their glamour.
0010 | STYLEBOOK
STYLEBOOK | 0011
0012 | STYLEBOOK
the
forties
There was an evident shift in fashion from the time World War II occurred and after it ended. The darkness of this particular time in history is truly transcendent in the type of clothing the people chose to wear. For instance, vibrant and glamour were prevalent in fashion before the war. This aspect of the industry was completely scrapped when the war began. Additionally, because rations were implemented, it hindered the tyes of materials available for making and/or obtaining clothes. Artificial fibers such as viscose and rayon were used to manufacture clothing instead of wool (for it was incredibly scarce during this time). The colours people chose to wear was a colossal factor in the establishment of common perception of anguish and darkness.
The colours chosen were simple and solemn colours. Most of the attire were of a solitary solid colour such as ivory, black, navy, or other dark colours.
Practicality is an essential component in times of war. This notion did not exempt the fashion industry. It was commonplace for people to make their clothes so that they would last as long as they possibly could. So, as a result, mend their clothing as best they could. The British government went so far as to make it unlawful to participate in the practice of using excess buttons, decorative trimmings, and extra stitching on clothing. Many would find similarities of World War II fashion to that of a perpetual funeral. Because most men were sent off fighting in the war, women had the obligation to take over the work force. They often worked in ammunitions factories and other manufacturers that supplied for the war. Their attire often consisted of a plain jumpsuit and their hair tied to the back. On the right; model Kat Smorodina is sporting a simple white working-class jumpsuit. This outfit would have been relatively common in this era for working-class women.
STYLEBOOK | 0013
0014 | STYLEBOOK
STYLEBOOK | 0015
the
fifties
The 1950s were essentially a platform that transported the austerity of the 40s to the prosperity of the 60s. The history of fashion would forever be changed because younger generations became an emerging voice in fashion. Because of this, a new consumer-driven society was born. Until then, young girls often dressed and made themselves up to look as old as their mothers. During this era, they developed their own style and knocked those between thirty and forty at the start of 1950 off its pedestal. The fashion industry became revolutionized as thebaby boomers strived to look as youthful as possible.
The divide of the decade was 1956 when the fifties distanced itself from the rigid controls of the 40s into more flexible sybaritic 60s when youth movement influenced fashion and lifestyles.
behind the consumerism of the 1950s. Two of the primary groups that affected it significantly were housewives and the baby boom. A compilation of a section on women’s fashion of the 1950s were plastere onto nearly every department store catalogue. The descriptions of clothing included subtle hints that specific clothing and fashionable looks would help please their husbands or to help them find a husband.
Women’s fashion emerged with reprisal and this era is known primarily for two silhouettes, that of the full skirt and the pencil slim tubular skirt, with both placing great emphasis on the narowness of the waist. On the left; model Kim Jones is wearing a brilliant yelSince this wea was the time low dress with a floral motif in which World War II ended that is very fitting for 50s atand an economic boom took tire. Her dress also emphaplace, men were immediate- sizes the narrowness of her ly sent back to work. This fact waist, which was the goal was the catalyst for the forces for most women in this era.
0016 | STYLEBOOK
Model Jef Gaitan in this image is sporting a form fitting “Marilyn Monroe-esque� beige dress. Though her outfit does not include the certain patterns popular in the 60s, it does sport the infamous short-length skirt.
STYLEBOOK | 0017
the sixties
The 1960s was essentially the embodiment of glamour. However, it hadn’t come to its own sense until 1966. Before then, 50s fashion hung around for the first five years. Pleated skirts set on a hip yoke basque worn with short sleeved over blouses was the first sign of 60s fashion. Additionally, straight skirts had front and back inverted pleats named kick pleats. These skirts were optimal for doing the twist dance craze because their knees moved freely in them. Straight sweater dresses were made of lambswool or Orlon and were often worn belted with waists nipped in became mainstream and stylish. Hairstyles in this period were often short mine cuts or bouffant variations of the asymmetric cut fringe circa 1968. This period is notoriously known for its introduction of the mini skirt. By 1966, Mary Quant began manufacturing short waist skimming mini dresses and skirts that were 6 to 7 inches above the knee. She did not, however, intend on inventing the fashion mini skirt.
She had simply popularizedthe notion of shorter skirts. The real inventor oftheminiskirtwasnamedJohnBates.
When tights were introduced in the 1960s, it freed women from uncomfortable girdles, roll-ons, and suspender belts. The debut of seamless stockings had begun what is called the “tights revolution”. Patterned tights were prevalent in the late 60s with arrangements of diamonds or other motifs. They were likely to be the era’s favorite colour, a golden brown called “American Tan”. Additionally, fishnet tights and Lurex glitter tights in gold or silver were popular in brief periods of the 60s. There were a myriad of influences for fashion in the 1960s. Social mobility, daring fashion photography, easier travel abroad, the Vietnam war, the Beatles, retro military and ethnic clothes, musicals, pop art and film were key components to the couture of this time. Perhaps two of the most influential women included Jackie Kennedy and her trademark pill box hat and three quarter sleeves, and Marilyn Monroe and her form fitting outfits.
0018 | STYLEBOOK
STYLEBOOK | 0019
the
seventies
The seventies was a era of different fashion trends and experimentation upon new things. Objects such as mood rings, waterbeds, and lava lamps were prevalent throughout the seventies. In addition, people loved the combination of bright and wild colors in their clothing and everyday household items, such as a neon yellow bean bag chairs for furnishing. Nonetheless, fashion transitioned dramatically from the sixties. Geometric patterns of stripes, circles, and triangles became part of a crucial design element, along with bold colors and the use of polyester. Hair was flamboyant and often shaped by stacking, packing, and curling it. The decade was considerate “hip� and revolutionary compared to the sixties. However, conflicts across the globe during this time period, such as Vietnam war for instance, affected the overall era and left the seventies in turmoil. Fashion in the seventies reflected the exciting and lively type of lifestyle that was common in the seventies. Groovy patterns and polyester suits, along with platform shoes were popular during this era.
The average platform shoe typically had a two inches the front with a four to five inch heel on the back. Moreover, three different styles and lengths of skirts were now available on the market: Mini, which were by the midthigh, midi, which were between the knee and the ankle, and maxi which reached to the floor. Pants, such as bell bottoms were one of the many pieces of clothing that was distinctive to the decade. Flared styles became prevalent around the early seventies, where pants and tunics were made into a crepe like style as it flared near the bottoms. Clothing people would wear to discos were typically never worn out during the day. Jackets were made out of satin and would reflect the light, which created a metallic color under the disco ball. Accessories such as medallions, chokers, and handcrafted neck ornaments along with gauchos and capes gave a bohemian inspired look and feel which was fashionable to many. On the left; model Solange Knowles is wearing a blue loose fitting jumpsuit. Her hair is in full blown curls to give it a volumized look against the bright pink eyeshadow.
0020 | STYLEBOOK
the eighties Music became a significant part of the eighties culture. This decade was also know as the “Decade of Excess”, which defined its ten years of glamour, ambition, and technological innovations that shaped modern society today. Pop music influenced culture throughout the entire decade, along with hiphop and electronic music. Cell phones and computers were some of the biggest technological advances of the decade. As technology continued to improve, households began to have smaller and more affordable television sets. Moreover, a baby boom along with more people receiving a college education, and a well-paying job resulted in many who began to develop an expensive taste. The focus on business, status, and power led to a new breed of “yuppies”, or those individuals who had the money to live a rich and luxurious lifestyle. Altogether, the eighties exhibited countless trends and innovations that contributed to the development of society today. The early 80s in fashion were somewhat subdued in color, where a lot of browns, tans and oranges where used. Basics color palettes were also popular amongst the people and became some of the most successful styles. In addition, velour and velvet became a choice as a fabric when purchasing clothing. Bright colored accessories were necessary to complete the outfit, such as sunglasses, bangles, and hoop earrings for instance.
Teased hair and neon colors were also prevalent, however the style of choice was dependent upon the different age groups. Men’s fashion style changed very little during the early eighties, though it became more acceptable to wear sport coats and slacks to events compared to the tradition suit and tie. In 1986, full-length wool coats rose as one of the many favorite fashion pieces. It covered long flaring skirts, bulky sweaters, shirts, and blouses, which made it easier for people to pick choose outfits. Luxury fabrics such as cashmere and alpaca were used in designer pieces to enhance the overall look and quality of the clothing for those who could afford it. Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein, and Perry Ellis became some of the high end designers. On the other hand, the resurgence of the short skirt introduced new hemlines that reached the knees or the mid-thigh. These became some of the new trends during the eighties. On the right; model Taylor Swift is wearing a black crochet jumper by Marc Jacobs. Her hair slicked back and gelled to recreate a retro inspired eighties look.
STYLEBOOK | 0021
0022 | STYLEBOOK
the nineties The nineties became a period of visual and performing arts, where literature and architecture influenced many aspects of modern society today. Movements such as grunge, rave, and hip hop became the norm throughout various parts of the world. In fashion, slap bracelets and light up sneakers became popular amongst children near the early nineties. Society continued to liberalize in many countries, and youth culture embraced aspects such as environmentalism. Furthermore, there was the rise of “Green Architecture,” which began during this decade. The movement focused upon creating structures that blended into their nearby surroundings and had minimal environmental impact. During the nineties, people lend towards more minimalistic and causal fashion compared to the neon colors and shapes on the apparel. In addition, it was the decade of body mods, such as tattoos and body piercings.
Overalls made its way back into fashion, however the most commonly way of wearing them was to leave one strap undone. Furthermore, there were different types of styles which were considered “trendy” at the time. For example, the grunge look was typically created with thrifted clothing. Flannels, ripped jeans, and combat boots, or an oversized knit sweater were common when creating this type of style. Another type of style was known as the “Modern Preppy Style”. This was closer to the end of the nineties, created by clothing pieces such as khaki slacks, boat shoes, and solid colored blazers. These type of clothing became more casual and comfortable to wear on a regular basis. On the other hand, Doc Martens and Air Jordans were some of the most popular footweat amongst the younger generation during this era. On the right; model Sam Humphries is wearing a pale blue neoprene jacket, paired with a pink midi skirt.
STYLEBOOK | 0023
0024 | STYLEBOOK
STYLEBOOK | 0025
the
present
This decade continues toward the growth of the internet, where many things were dependent upon technology. Communication around the global has become more sufficient due to the various types of methods available, such as using mobile devices and computers. Society is slowly becoming more accepting of new ideas and concepts, and as politics begin to change its surroundings are also influenced. In addition, movies and works of literature are presented in different ways in order to appeal to both younger and older audiences. In this era, people are constantly looking for new ideas and concepts. On the top left; model Jackie Milner and is wearing a faux fur vest, paired with a blue crop top and printed jacket. On the bottom left; model Carla Barretto is wearing a green patterned crop top, paried with a faux fur jacket.
During the early 2000’s, the revival of velour tracksuits became a part of the decade. Other types of fabric such as denim was also popular as it became a enormous part of modern clothing. Jeans were available in many different colors and styles. Skinny, high-waisted, low rise, and bell bottoms for example were some of the cuttings sold in stores. Loose fitting cargo pants was an alternative to jeans or jeggings. On the other hand, counterfeit designer bags and luxury brand name products, also know as “dupes” were created for those who could not afford the actual items. Various different types of styles such as “emo fashion and “geek chic” became minor fashion trends over the decade. Moreover, crop tops, mini skirts and shorts were similarly as popular especially for the summer weather, since it was easy to mix and match other pieces of clothing with them. For footwear, ballet flats and shearling boots were prevalent throughout the decade, since it was comfortable and easy to wear. Accessories was also a crucial part of the outfit, such as statement necklace or watch that complemented formal or semi casual outfits for a evening or a night out.
0026 | STYLEBOOK
STYLEBOOK | 0027
define: culture As explained by Tylor, “Culture, or civilization, ... is that complex whole which includes knowledge, belief, art, law, morals, custom, and any other capabilities and habits acquired by man as a member of society.” Culture is best defined as the accumulated experiences from the past, as it is passed on to others through different forms. The concept of culture describes the knowledge and behavior of groups and their interactions between others that potentially influence or shape perspectives.
The word “culture” has multiple definitions, but ultimately it is dependent upon the individual who chooses to define it. It can affect how people act and behave, along with their ideas, values, and attitudes. With culture, diversity is created due to the distinct similarities and differences present. Altogether, culture is expressed through a structure of values and beliefs while is it prevalent in forms of art, literature, architecture, and many more.
0028 | STYLEBOOK
bibliography “1930s Fashion HistoryStylish Thirties.” 1930s Fashion History. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 June 2015. “1940’s Fashions including Prices.” Clothes and Men’s and Ladies Fashions in the 1940’s Prices and Examples. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 June 2015. “1950’s Fashions including Prices.” Clothes and Men’s and Ladies Fashions in the 1950’s Prices and Examples. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 June 2015. “1950s Fashion GlamourC20th Fashion History 1950s.” 1950s Fashion History 50s Glamour, Dior New Look. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 June 2015. “70s Fashion.” - Fashion in the Seventies. N.p., n.d. Web. 11 June 2015. “80s Fashion.” - Expressing Your Individual Style in the Eighties. N.p., n.d. Web. 11 June 2015. “90s Fashion.” - Clothes Worn in the 90s. N.p., n.d. Web. 11 June 2015. “90s Fashion.” - Clothes Worn in the 90s. N.p., n.d. Web. 11 June 2015. “C20th Costume History 1940-1950 1940s Utility Clothing To Look1940s Fashion History.” 1940s Fashion History. 1940-1950 Costume History Utility to New Look. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 June 2015. “Defining the Drug Culture.” New England Journal of Medicine N Engl J Med 286.23 (1972): 1269. Web. “Fashion in the 1980s.” RetroWaste. N.p., n.d. Web. 11 June 2015. “Fashion in the Roaring Twenties.” Fashion in the Roaring Twenties. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 June 2015. “Flapper Fashion 1920sC20th Fashion History.” 1920s Flapper Fashion History. C20th Costume History for Women in the 1920’s. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 June 2015. “The 60s Mini Skirt 1960s Fashion History.” The 1960s Mini Skirt Fashion History. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 June 2015. “The 70s Disco Fashion 1970s Costume History.” 70s Disco Fashion, Mini Dress, Maxi, Platform Soled Shoes. N.p., n.d. Web. 11 June 2015. Images: “Artu Nepomuceno.” Exposure. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 June 2015.
STYLEBOOK | 0029
contributors Margaret de Leon: Layout & Design,Writer Kelly Au: Layout & Design, Writer