4 minute read
A Taste of India
Experience the chilled-out side of this land of intense contrasts in the serene state of Kerala
As introductions to the vast and diverse country of India go, the tranquil region of Kerala is a very good place to start.
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Lying on the southern reaches of the nation, it’s a place where traditional houseboats float languidly through the famed backwaters, endless beaches aren’t so much palm fringed as palm thatched, and the breeze carries the harmonious scents of sweet marigold and fragrant Keralan cooking, along with the sounds of life lived for the moment.
While pluckier travellers may meet India head-on by experiencing the intensity of cities like Mumbai, or at the other end of the spectrum, the majesty of Rhajastan’s fort towns, Kerala is the perfect midway point.
Though a little daunting, the 13-hour flight from the UK to the region’s capital of Thiruvananthapuram (at around 13 hours) is perfect preparation. To truly get the best out of a visit to India, you have to arrive with an open mind. Read: press the pause button on your life back in the UK.
Wherever you venture across the nation – with 29 states covering 3.287 million km², it could be a lifetime’s project – you’ll never forget the quality of the light.
It’s a light that seems to illuminate the world from the inside out. Everything, from the lush foliage to the soft beaches – and even the cows that roam freely across them (around 80% of India’s 3.4 billion population are Hindu, a religion that deifies the humble creature) – is suffused with this magical light.
Similarly, the unique smell will linger long in the memory, created by the arid heat which distills life here into a kind of Eau D’India. It almost defies description, but once experienced, this earthy-yet-delicate aroma is never forgotten. Open a purse full of forgotten rupee notes months after you return, and you’ll be whisked back to the country in a heartbeat.
South Kerala is a beach lover’s paradise, with a 600km stretch of the tropical Malabar Coast to select your favourite spot from. The Arabian Sea is swim-ready all year round; its deep blue waters heated by the sun, which only disappears during Kerala’s two rainy seasons. Edavappa thy, or the Southwest Monsoon, arrives in June. In mid-october, it’s the turn of Thulavarsham, the Northeast Monsoon.
However, these are not the incessant monsoons of other regions of India. The heavens generally open for a few hours, before the sun returns to her rightful place in the sky. If you’re unlucky, of course, you might experience a run of rainy days, but these are rare. Even if you do get drenched, the feel of a balmy downpour is wonderfully refreshing.
Beaches line the Malabar Coast; the rustic charms of a house boat
Monsoons ensure lush foliage
For Ayurvedic practitioners and therapists, it’s a golden time of year. Ayurveda combines the Sanskrit words ‘ayur’ (life) and ‘veda’ (science or knowledge). The ancient practise is believed to have originated in India over 3000 years ago and is still turned to today as one of the country’s traditional healthcare systems.
South Kerala’s reputation for anything Ayurvedic is well-known. It’s possible to enjoy treatments in virtually every corner of the state, but forget the Western world’s inflated prices: divine full-body massages are available for around 900 rupees (£10). Many Ayurvedic training schools and academies are based here, so you’re in the best hands. For an almost transcendental experience, we recommend Shirodhara. This therapy involves lying down while a continuous stream of warm oil is poured over the midpoint between your eyebrows. With a concentration of nerve endings here, it’s one of the most blissful 30 minutes you may ever spend. Perhaps it’s no surprise then that Keralans have India’s highest life expectancy at birth, living on average to the fairly ripe old age of 74.9 years. Turn to p59 for our Ayurveda massage review.
The country’s interior is home to the famed waterways, natural canals where an overnight stay on a rustic houseboat is a must-do experience. Go further and you’ll see the majestic Western Ghats, mountains whose slopes support tea, coffee and spice plantations. National Parks like Eravikulam and Periyar are home to wild elephants, langur monkeys and tigers.
Kerala is a popular destination for yogis, who flock here to practise with gurus in jaw-dropping nature. Varkala, a small town strung along the top of a striking rust-red cliff face, boasts some of the best views. There’s a flourishing yoga scene here, and if you’re lucky, you may even witness a hindi ritual on Papanasam beach including the ‘Puja’, where a loved one’s ashes are put out to sea. It’s an extraodinary and humbling sight to behold and will be forever etched in the memory.
The Western Ghats
One way to navigate the dense interior!
A Langur monkey hangs out
