Daily Lobo 03/06/2023

By Gabriel Garcia @GLGWrites

It takes a lot of people to stage a production. Many, such as costume designers, remain behind the scenes even as their creations draw audience attention center stage, according to three costume designers at the University of New Mexico.

Because they work offstage, the general public makes certain assumptions about what happens in costume shops, according to Emma Harrison, a student at UNM majoring in design and technology for performance with a concentration in costumes.

“I think a common misconception that even I had at the beginning is that it’s like fashion. But the only real similarity to fashion, I think, is the element of building clothes and rendering clothes. But the rest of it is such a completely different world because (for) fashion, you’re designing for individuals outside of this whole story whereas for costume design, it’s way more about the story,” Harrison said.

Stacia Smith-Alexander, a faculty member who supervises the UNM costume shop, said that there are misconceptions about roles within the shop. For example, when she tells people that she’s a costume designer, they assume she sews the costumes.

“I work with the concept. I shopped it with different body types to make everybody look good. So the look is me … I designed it. Like an architect — they don’t build their buildings, right?”

Smith-Alexander said.

Harrison, who worked as wardrobe supervisor for the recent dance concert “Monstro/us,” will work as costume designer for the upcoming production of “Wings of Night Sky.”

The latter will be her first turn as a costume designer.

“I read the script, and I met with the director and just kind of heard a baseline — what he sees. And part of what he said is he wanted it to be contemporary,” Harrison said.

“There (are) some pretty fanciful, fantastical elements in the play, but he said he wanted to keep it contemporary and more simple.”

After reading the script, meeting with the writer or director, and doing research, the designer will then put together inspiration boards for each character, according to Cee Fields-Haley, a UNM theater student and the costume designer for the upcoming student production of “(Type)Writer.”

“I created Pinterest boards for each character and brainstormed before running it by the writer of the play,” Fields-Haley said.

After this, the designer creates sketches for the costumes and conceptualizes the ideas, according to Harrison. Then, it comes time to actually source the costumes. Costumes typically come from three general sources: reusing existing costumes, building custom costumes in the shop or purchasing off the rack from retail and thrift stores, according to Harrison and Smith-Alexander.

Fields-Haley and the playwright Rachel Dodd pulled each character’s specific look using what they already had at the costume shop

and Savers, a secondhand clothing store. Like Harrison, “(Type)Writer” marks Fields-Haley’s first turn at costume design.

“I just want to be an open book, so this just added to my repertoire of experiences I’m grateful to have,” Fields-Haley said.

Harrison said that her ultimate goal is to be a costume designer for theater.

“What appeals to me is simply the craft of making and designing clothing,” Harrison said.

Right now, there are about 20 people majoring in design for performance, with lots of crossover from the film and digital arts program, according to Smith-Alexander.

“I want the audience to know how much thought, research and development goes into costume designing. A costume designer is there to help tell the story of the play or dance piece. They think about color, texture, history, proportion, silhouette, movement, style and fit,” Smith-Alexander said. “Even if the performance is in a modern style, we consider all these things in order to help develop the character/dancer within the production.”

“(Type)Writer” premiered on Friday, March 3 and will run through Saturday, March 11. The upcoming production “Wings of Night Sky,” will run from April 21 to 29.

Gabriel Garcia is a freelance reporter at the Daily Lobo. He can be reached at culture@dailylobo.com or on Twitter @GLGWrites

Zara Roy / Daily Lobo / @ zarazzledazzle

Costumes from the dance piece “La Horas Cantatas” are placed on model forms. These pieces were designed and created for the UNM dance show “Monstro-us” by the UNM Costume Shop. Photo courtesy of Stacia Smith-Alexander.

ABQ Street Meet fosters creativity and community

tions are fostered when creatives of varying experience come together to help each other and share their skills, furthering the abilities of everyone in the community at once.

One local cosplayer, Grace Knight, has been doing cosplay for the last 12 years. The last four years she has spent doing Street Meet, she said, have been invaluable in helping her turn toward a professional cosplay career.

“We get a lot of newer photographers, newer models, newer cosplayers that show up, and a lot of them don’t know photographers or models and they wanna work with people. So we really help connect people in that way in the community,” Maeday said.

Leif Kilburn started as a featured model at the very first Street Meet before picking up photography. He agreed that Street Meet provides him and others a great opportunity for practicing their craft, and building community.

By Zara Roy @zarazzledazzle

Since 2018, Street Meet New Mexico has been an avenue for local creatives to build connections and strengthen both their professional lives and community ties. Street Meet is a monthly scheduled meet-up in which local models, photographers and cosplayers — hobbyists and pro -

fessionals alike — come together to take photos.

The Albuquerque event was first started by former University of New Mexico student Megan Kamauoha as part of the larger Street Meet collective, which exists in several other cities including Los Angeles and Seattle.

Street Meet is held in changing locations across the city and often has themed nights which models and cosplayers

Start Spring Strong With

are expected to base their outfits around. Darian Reid first became involved through Kamauoha while they were both students at UNM. Now, Reid is a host for the cosplay side of the event; they help to organize and book event locations and pick out monthly themes alongside other hosts.

The professional connections are one of the highlights of the event for fellow cosplay host Maeday Cosplay. These connec-

“I want to do modeling and photography … a little more professionally and (Street Meet) is a really good place for meeting people and talking to them about ideas. And I guess after all these years, I’ve got some friends there — it’s fun just to go see them and do things,” Kilburn said.

The love of the craft pulls artist Tiger Lily Cosplay back to the event. She said the Street Meet gives her the opportunity to show off her hard work outside of conventions, which she often finds

to be overcrowded and inaccessible for her friends who are immunocompromised or otherwise anxious in large crowds.

“It is one of my absolute favorite hobbies to do,” Tiger Lily said. “It’s one of my favorite things. I cannot tell you the joy I get from having little kids come up to me and go, ‘Oh my gosh, you’re Poison Ivy.”

For Reid, the strong friendships they have been able to make with people who share their same passion keeps them invested in the event.

“Honestly, what I’ve gotten out of Street Meet is making some of the best friends I’ve ever made in my entire lifetime. That’s what I want for Street Meet: to make that close community,” Reid said. “Even though there’s a lot of us, and there’s a lot of people who come out to the meets, I genuinely hope people will find their friends, their group of people and their own little creative niche.”

The next Street Meet will be held at Central New Mexico Community College West Side on Sunday, March 19 from 2 to 5 p.m. More information about the event can be found on their Instagram @streetmeetnewmexico_official.

Zara Roy is the copy chief at the Daily Lobo. She can be reached at copychief@dailylobo.com or on twitter @zarazzledazzle

Courtesy Photo / Daily Lobo / @DailyLobo

at Los Poblanos Farms. Photo Courtesy of Wen Wu.

LOBO OPINION

Opinion Editor / opinion@dailylobo.com

OPINION: How to be an ethical thrifter

By Jordyn Bachmann @DailyLobo

The past decade has seen a significant uptick in the popularity of secondhand shopping. Thrift stores have seen more traffic than ever due to an increase in trendiness and a decrease in the taboo of buying used, according to NPR Run-of-the-mill thrift stores are now seeing a new generation of shoppers with different ways of thrifting, and the industry is having to shift in response. According to ThredUp’s Resale Market and Trend Report, the secondhand resale market saw an uptick of 58% in 2021, meaning supply and demand, as well as inflation, have caused these “shifts” to affect a good portion of low-income households.

Despite the positive benefits that result from thrifting as a whole, there are still ethical concerns, like accessibility, overconsumption and excessive redonation, that are necessary for any shopper to keep in mind as thrifting becomes more popular. While hard to avoid entirely, picking up some good habits is sure to help make you a friendlier thrifter in your community and limit your contribution to the cyclical pattern of waste.

Due to the lower prices thrift

stores offer, it’s easy to go overboard with a large haul. But it’s unnecessary to always leave with an armful of clothing. Moderation is often overlooked in the fashion industry, as capitalism compels us into the idea of always needing new things, but temperance is a great tool to help combat overconsumption.

Before heading to checkout, challenge yourself to sort through your picks and find at least one item to put away — whether it be a “maybe” that hasn’t quite sold you yet, a hard-to-style piece you’ll have to convince yourself to wear or an item that is similar to something you already own.

This method ensures you are being picky and taking only the things you actually need or want, allowing the piece(s) you let go to become the “yes”-es of other thrifters who will love them as they should be loved. Fighting our “wants” is hard, but little steps can help make us more mindful shoppers.

Know what you’re looking for before you head to the thrift: map out a strategy, if you will. It’s easy to get lost in the seemingly endless racks of a thrift store and leave with a lot more than you bargained for (or can afford). If you have pieces you’re certain you want in your closet, stick only to those areas of the thrift store;

your success rates are going to skyrocket and you’ll most likely stay within budget.

By limiting yourself to only the type of items you’re looking for, you’ll go through the racks slower. This will force you to pay more attention to the quality of the pieces you skim through and maybe even find a gem you would’ve skipped over otherwise. Concentrated efforts can revolutionize your thrift game and ensure you work toward your dream closet.

Another great way to be conscious of what you are bringing into your closet is to understand the type of clothing you enjoy, whether in terms of aesthetic or how it feels on your body. There is a lot of power in analyzing the types of fabrics, cuts, inseams and fits that best suit your style and make you feel your best at all times.

Frequently, we find ourselves envisioning what we’d look like in fashion we see online — clothes we wish we wore, but would not realistically wear in our day-to-day lives. It’s tempting when you see these kinds of pieces in a thrift store with a low price tag.

Learn to take a step back and assess how useful a piece would be to you, such as versatility, how well it meshes with what’s already

in your closet or how the material feels on your skin. Think about how often you’ll reach for this piece on a monthly basis. If you only wear it once or twice within that span of time, is it worth it?

For the resellers out there thrifting in hopes of finding highpriced items for cheap to sell for a profit: if you go into a thrift store and gut it of all the nice clothing for resale purposes, what does that leave other thrifters with?

It’s important to practice balanced consumption, especially if reselling is your side hustle and not your main source of income. Everyone deserves the chance to find clothing that makes them happy, and not everyone has

the privilege of choosing where that clothing comes from, so be conscious of that.

Thrifting, while having its ethical concerns, is still ultimately an amazing practice not only to breathe life into used clothing, but also to contribute to the fights against textile waste, climate change and immoderation. At the end of the day, just remember to be a friendly thrifter in your community and practice ethical thrifting habits as much as possible.

Jordyn Bachmann is a freelance reporter at the Daily Lobo. She can be reached at culture@dailylobo. com or on Twitter @DailyLobo

OPINION: Sensory-sensitive and style-conscious fashion: a guide

By Detroit Kallunki @DailyLobo

Tactile sensitivity associated with sensory processing disorder can be make-or-break when it comes to personal fashion style and choices. And still, when you look online to find solutions for sensory sensitivities, the answers have a practically nonexistent range between “meeting sensory needs for kids” and lists of colorless, shapeless adult clothing.

Neither of these solutions genuinely address the issues or acknowledges that people with sensory sensitivities might still want to express themselves with fashion. If you like wearing a beige strip of fabric every day, more power to you — for the rest of us, there are some simple changes to maintain levels of sensory comfort while still wearing the things we like.

Tags

One of the most frequent sen-

sory issues with clothing is irritating clothing tags. These tags are often placed at the back of a shirt collar or the back of pants and cause constant friction, something that can become painful to those with sensory sensitivities.

Before removing tags, it is important to make a note of what information they contain. Some tags just have sizes on them and others have washing instructions. If this information is relevant, you should document the information before you remove the tags. Take a picture of the clothing with the tag on it so that you can remember which clothing it belongs to, and then take a picture of the tag up close to keep a record of important information.

Socks

Most socks either have tight elastic around the ankle, a seam along the toe that can be more than just a little bothersome, or lack any elasticity and therefore slip off your heel all day.

Volume 127 Issue 27

Replace loose socks or socks that leave uncomfortable imprints on your ankles with slouchy crew socks. These can be pulled up or down and don’t leave marks or restrict blood flow. They also come in neutrals, brights and patterns, so they can match any style. For those who find issue with seams, you can purchase compression socks traditionally made for people with diabetes — these are usually seamless.

Fabrics

Synthetic fabric blends are often irritating to the skin of those with sensory sensitivities, more so than most other fabrics. Paying closer attention to the fabrics that you find comfortable can help eliminate this irritation. If you don’t yet have a starting point, I recommend testing out natural fabrics and making a note of which ones feel comfortable.

You can do this just by touching certain types of fabrics if you don’t want to try on clothing, which can be an intensive sensory experience of its own. I tend to skip trying

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on clothes until I find a fabric that is tolerable to my hands first, something I would recommend others do as well.

Pressure

Specific individuals with sensory sensitivities can be sensory-seeking rather than just sensory-avoidant. Many of these people may prefer stimulation in their clothing. Heavier pieces of clothing like vests, jackets or sweaters can be layered over thinner clothing, especially when the outer fabric is less desirable. A heavy wool sweater may provide the right pressure, but the texture may need to be negated with a protective layer. Compression vests can also be purchased, although most of these are thin underclothes and will not fit over something bulkier if needed. It may be important to find out if the texture or pressure is bothersome to you before making a purchase.

Pants

If tight-fitting pants like jeans feel

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restrictive to you, you can switch to trousers or skirts, often made of lighter, looser materials with more options for different cuts. As a bonus, these often come in more patterns and colors than jeans do.

For those who prefer tighter clothing with more breathability, leggings or yoga pants are a good replacement for jeans. They are stretchy but also provide compression and often fit without alterations or belts.

By far the most foolproof way to express yourself while paying attention to your sensory sensitivities is finding something you like and then building off the same outfit every day. A formula doesn’t have to be boring. You can mix prints and colors and top layers, but with a basic idea of what you find the most comfortable, you won’t struggle with frequent sensory issues because of clothing itself.

Detroit Kallunki is a freelance reporter with the Daily Lobo. They can be reached at culture@dailylobo.com or on Twitter @DailyLobo

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Culture Editor Spenser Willden

Founded in 1889, the University of New Mexico sits on the traditional homelands of the Pueblo of Sandia. The original peoples of New Mexico – Pueblo, Navajo, and Apache – since time immemorial, have deep connections to the land and have made significant contributions to the broader community statewide. We honor the land itself and those who remain stewards of this land throughout the generations and also acknowledge our committed relationship to Indigenous peoples. We gratefully recognize our history. This statement was developed by Pam Agoyo, director of American Indian Student Services and special assistant to the president on American Indian Affairs, in consultation with the Native American Faculty Council.

clothes hang for sale at Joy Junction Thrift Shoppe.

Meow Wolf: Corporatized cash grab or subversive art experience?

Eli Behrens, a musician and student at the University of New Mexico studying psychology, echoed this sentiment as Meow Wolf becoming a “monetized entity” instead of a free or donation-based space has allowed the artistic expression to reach a new level. However, his issues with the corporation stem from their lack of inclusion of local artists in their more recent work.

“That’s hard for me to stomach because I still want to engage in artistic expression, especially when it’s put and held up at such a level with the funding and everything,” Behrens said.

By John Scott, Addison Key

@JohnSnott @addisonkey11

The Meow Wolf artists collective, initially founded in 2008 “as an informal DIY collective of Santa Fe artists,” has had a successful last few years with the founding of their flagship branch in Santa Fe in 2016 and opening subsequent locations in Denver, Las Vegas and a recently announced location in Grapevine, Texas, according to their website. With this expansion in popularity and monetization comes questions of authenticity — is Meow Wolf still the homegrown art exhibit it started as in 2008?

Vice president of the Meow Wolf Workers Collective union and senior creative engineer of research and

development of Meow Wolf Conor Peterson asks: “Do we make better art with more money or is there such a thing as selling out or going corporate? And does that water down the art experience?”

It’s a question that highlights the dissonance between the corporatized, capitalistic nature of running a business and the “anti-gallery,” anti-establishment ethos that was a guiding principle for Meow Wolf and continues to be a guidepost, according to Benji Geary, co-founder of Meow Wolf.

“We had this identity crisis (with expanding) of, ‘Oh no, that’s gonna corrupt us,’ versus, ‘No, shouldn’t this be what we do? Wouldn’t you like to spend all your time doing this? And is there a way that we can sustain that and then get more cool brilliant artists who we know to do that too?’” Geary said.

The construction of “The House of Eternal Return” in Santa Fe differs from how the company approaches building the installations now, according to Peterson.

“What used to be the case, way back in the day … (is that) we would make our caves out of actual adobe dug from the ground in New Mexico. And then we started doing it with architectural compounds because it’s more efficient to do it that way and less messy,” Peterson said. “Now we just pay people to do that kind of work for us because we don’t like it at all … Even though, prior to the layoffs, we did almost all of the design and building and fabrication of everything in-house.”

The layoffs, which came during the COVID-19 pandemic, resulted in the loss of over half of Meow Wolf’s workers, severely impacting the production process. The pandemic also impacted Meow Wolf’s ability to incorporate local artists in their new installations, according to Geary.

“We really didn’t have that many

Las Vegas local artists because there were so many COVID restrictions and stuff at the time of getting external people to come in. So, it’s (about) retroactively building those things in now that we’re seeing opportunities to do so,” Geary said.

The discussion this far has been operating under the assumption of Meow Wolf being art, or being a space to interact with art. For Munia Omer, a musician and UNM student studying foreign languages, Meow Wolf tows the line between an experience and art in and of itself.

“The first time I went — I had a different understanding and approach to art, but it felt like more of an experience, almost, than it was art … Now, when I think about art — art is something that makes you think about how and why it was created, which I definitely did experience at Meow Wolf,” Omer said.

The definition of Meow Wolf as entertainment or experience may intersect with the definition of art, according to Geary.

“Where does one start and the other begins (is) all up to this subjective interpretive layer of well, is this sacred or profane to me personally? That’s so subjective too … But it depends on what art means to you,” Geary said.

Unionization efforts by artists started in 2020, and were met by resistance from ownership, according to New Mexico News Port. In 2022 the Union ratified a contract, according to the Santa Fe Reporter Peterson argues that the unionization of Meow Wolf allows artists to collectively create art that aligns with their original process.

“Art doesn’t get made in a clean corporate formula. Good art comes from a lot of self-development that people do, and it comes from culture and whatever social movements are happening … We think that the, the union coming from a collective place that echoes where Meow Wolf originally came from, and preserves whatever nucleus of culture that we have here to allow us to keep making art in the way that we have,” Peterson said.

This mentality of being against the institution founded Meow Wolf, and Geary said he welcomes the idea of raging against Meow Wolf if it were to become that institution.

“It’s funny to think about these kinds of things, like, ‘Has Meow Wolf — this immersive experience of art — has that changed what people in the future might demand as art or expect art to be?’ … And how can that be? Something that was so anti-gallery, then … becomes the (institution). And that’s why I really encourage people who are like, ‘Oh that sucks, I hate that … we’re gonna start our own new thing,’ Geary said. “Cause that in itself is the very ethos that made this thing happen.”

Addison Key is a freelance reporter at the Daily Lobo. She can be reached at culture@dailylobo.com or on Twitter @addisonkey11

John Scott is the editor-in-chief at the Daily Lobo. He can be reached at editorinchief@dailylobo.com or on Twitter @JohnSnott

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John Scott / Daily Lobo / @JohnSnott Arcade tokens from the Meow Wolf location in Santa Fe, named “The House of Eternal Return,” fall from the sky.

Hit or miss: Isotopes jersey review

By Zara Roy @zarazzledazzle

As we jump into the 2023 season for the beloved Albuquerque Isotopes, now is the time for fans, both casual and die-hard, to think about what they’ll be stepping out in on their way to the stadium. The Isotopes are known for their unique array of jerseys which are rotated in and out for special occasions (and available for sale for lovers of the game). But which jerseys knock it out of the park, and which are a swing and a miss?

MISS: Green Chile Cheeseburger Jersey

Starting off with a bang, the “Green Chile Cheeseburgers” jersey is not nearly as palatable as its namesake. My primary gripe here lies in the unappealing color scheme; the shades of green and red used on the jersey look quite sad together. The total effect of the green, red and black evokes a dubious pizza restaurant that never puts quite enough toppings on the pizza.

The placement of the clip art-esque burger directly under the front logo is also lacking for me. It throws off the balance on the shirt and makes the entire design look a bit slapdash and unharmonious. Skip out on the burger jersey: though I may be biased as a vegetarian.

HIT: Replica Jersey

What can I say, I’m a sucker for the classics. Call me bland, call me basic, but don’t call the pristine white Isotopes replica jersey anything but fabulous. The simple, sparse black and red detailing highlights the Isotopes logo and grabs attention. More than anything the jersey feels quintessentially baseball. It throws you into a mood that infects you with a certain intuitive love of the game, even if you don’t care for it in practice.

Honorable mention must go to the purple variation of the jersey. It’s even simpler than the white, and the Isotopes name and logo really pop against the bright, attention-grabbing purple. I wish this one used the same wacky font as in the other replica jer-

The

seys, but I suppose we must pick our battles.

MISS: Marvel Jersey

Where to start: the silly screen printing on the front? The frustrating textural mismatch between the sleeves and the body? The eyesore-ish Marvel logo pockmarking the jersey? More than anything, this jersey frustrates me. It looks like a boy’s swim shirt. Now, for something to look like children’s clothes is not a bad thing in itself — children should be able to celebrate their love for Marvel, Barbie, Ouija Boards or whatever their obsessive fixation is this week. But for $105, I must pass this one up.

HIT: Mariachis Jersey

Finally, the Mariachis de Nuevo Mexico jerseys present an exciting, stunning take on the original jersey design. I love the black and teal combination they used for one of the versions, which I have not seen them use for any of the other jerseys. The front logo is one of their better ones. The primary font is quite visually pleasing and the incorporation of the Isotopes

Of course, style is purely subjective, and the jersey you wear out should be the one that you personally love the most — as long as you feel good, it’ll be a home run either way.

Mackenzie Schwarz / Daily Lobo / @mackenzid5

A Mariachis jersey, an alternate jersey for the Albuquerque Isotopes, hangs with other clothes in a cloest. logo into the text as a letter is a nice touch.

Zara Roy is the copy chief at the Daily Lobo. She can be contacted at copychief@dailylobo.com or on Twitter @zarazzledazzle

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Local designers push back against the fast-fashion cycle

By Jordyn Bachmann @DailyLobo

In recent years, discussion around the ethics and practices of fast fashion has expanded: what it is, where it comes from and what it looks like. Fast fashion — clothing manufactured to reflect a trend — directly contributes to climate change, waste and overconsumption. Slow fashion, which is the more environmentally and ethically conscious approach to clothing production, places its emphasis on well-paid labor, good working conditions, handmade pieces and well-made garments, according to Forbes

In order to combat the popularity of fast fashion, it is important to figure out how we can all fit ourselves into the slow-fashion movement, according to Joey Wagner, a senior at the University of New Mexico studying journalism who has made their own clothing since 2020.

Wagner is passionate about fashion, as well as slow fashion as a whole, and has hopes of entering the fashion journalism industry post-graduation. They said a common issue with fashion is accessibility, where clothing is often not made with all bodies in mind, which reflect the interests of the industry rather than individuals.

“I started because … I realized that nobody was making the clothes that I wanted to wear, so I said, ‘Screw it, I’ll do it myself,’” Wagner said.

Fast fashion can be the only accessible option for some people, including those with plus-sized bodies, according to Refinery29 Inclusivity is a consistent problem in the fashion industry, often excluding groups of people who do not fit the norms of high fashion, such as people of color, LGBTQ+ people, plus-sized people and people with disabilities.

“Over quarantine, I also fell really hard into my queerness … and I realized the clothes that are supposed to fit me just aren’t giving what I need them to.” Wagner said. “I’ve always been altering my clothes … since I was 10 years old, either painting them, adding things to them … doing whatever … I need(ed) to execute the exact vision I see for myself, so I decided making it myself would be the best option.”

Slow fashion not only helps one feel more intentional in their identity as opposed to fast fashion, but also helps express one’s creativity, according to UNM alumnus McKenna Donaldson, who has been making her own clothes since she was nine.

“I stopped sewing and picked it back up when I got to college. I moved into my own apartment and wanted nice things but couldn’t afford them,” Donaldson said. “I would go to thrift shops and get curtains and turn them into clothes, or I would pick furniture out of the dumpster, rip it apart and reupholster it.”

However, Donaldson also said this decision to make her own clothes stemmed from the same

problem of retailers not offering clothing for everyone.

“Now that I have a job, I make clothes for myself because I don’t like most clothes from retailers,” Donaldson said. “It’s fast fashion: cheap fabric and an overall terrible quality.”

Brands such as Patagonia, Everlane and The Classic T-Shirt Company are amongst the leaders of the current slow-fashion movement, opting for transparency when it comes to their warehouses, production, emissions and water usage as opposed to fast-fashion brands that hide the production side of their businesses, according to Good on You. These slow-fashion brands place emphasis on clothing that holds up as time goes on, as well as basic, go-to pieces that can live in someone’s closet forever despite trend cycles.

“If companies want to promote fair trade and be sustainable, I think that’s great, but I still think that mainstream media and or culture doesn’t really support that idea, as styles and trends are constantly changing. Slow fashion isn’t built for that pace,” Donaldson said. “However, if being sustainable means slowing down trends, then sourcing things ethically is how we achieve that.”

Slow fashion is a slow process, as the name implies, meaning there is work to be done to transition over to a slower, more intentional fashion industry. Both Wagner and Donaldson said that we can all work on our relationships with clothing, whether it be by learning to make our own or by supporting

into the garments they produce and sell.

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Jordyn Bachmann is a freelance reporter at the Daily Lobo. She can be reached at culture@dailylobo. com or on Twitter @DailyLobo

By Sierra Martinez @sierraaspen11

As an ever-changing industry, hairstyles, clothing and makeup techniques go in and out of style in the blink of an eye. Though it may seem as if trends are born out of thin air, they are often born of the appropriation of styles from marginalized communities toward the creation of mainstream fashion, according to Women’s Wear Daily

Cultural appropriation is as much a part of the modern fashion industry as is innovation, and it can take the shape of just about any form of self-presentation. While many white, cisgender, heterosexual celebrities, along with other normative people in our society have benefitted from the appropriation of non-mainstream fashion, the marginalized communities that those fashion sensibilities originated from are left without the appropriate credit or compensation for their labor, according to Frankie Flores, director of the University of New Mexico LGBTQ Resource Center.

“It makes us feel invisible. I think that this appropriation makes us feel like we are once again valued only for our labor and not for our actual production … We are left devalued and we are left reminded that the ways that we dress, and the ways that we talk and the language that we use are available for white consumption with no thought of

Black or brown reciprocation,” Flores said.

Just as designers have pushed fashion forward across the years, so have everyday people who exist outside of mainstream culture, according to Andrea Mays, an American studies professor and member of the Feminist Research Institute at UNM. Cultural appropriation has played a very specific role for people considered “normative” by societal standards.

“Historically, particularly for marginalized communities, this has been the case with issues of clothing, fashion and style. What has been perceived by the mainstream as transgressive choices about attire have been deployed by sort of normative, mainstream folks as an expression of their nonconformity,” Mays said.

Mays identified the act of dressing the body as a performance that signals belonging, and that messages of nonconformity conveyed by dress are not inherently harmful on their own, though they can quickly become problematic and appropriative.

“When I say that mainstream culture often appropriates what’s considered transgressive or marginal fashion or clothing choices … First and foremost: clothing, fashion, makeup and all of that is personal expression, right? It’s all about how you want to display yourself publicly. It’s, ‘I’m hip, I’m cool, I’m nonconforming, etc.’ and I think that’s fine. But it can be troubling when marginalized and stigmatized groups

get heat, targeted or stereotyped for applying those same fashion sensibilities in their lives,” Mays said.

In combination with the process of cultural appropriation being wielded as a form of social gain for normative individuals, Mays also positioned power and control as being at the center of the issue. She said that those with the most power — whether that be racial, social, gender or class power — set the terms for what are and are not acceptable modes of self-expression.

“Who controls what you can wear? Who sets those terms? Who controls the discourse around what’s appropriate? Who has the money and the power to say, ‘You know what, I’m going to put lip liner on, or I’m going to wear dreadlocks, or I’m going to do whatever because I have enough societal approbation to do what I want to do, including adopt what are considered unconventional or transgressive fashion choices.’ But at the bottom of it, it’s the same. It’s power,” Mays said.

Flores also said that with the appropriation of various styles created by marginalized communities comes a new sense of restriction and exclusivity that causes the originators of these styles to no longer have to access them.

Another critical component of this phenomenon is that while a certain clothing or makeup style might eventually be seen as ex-

clusive or high fashion on some bodies, on its originators it often retains the certain negative connotation that made it transgressive in the first place. In reference to this point, Flores commented on the highly coveted “clean girl” aesthetic that has recently arisen on the social media platform Tik Tok. They critiqued this aesthetic by noting its origins in Black and Latinx communities and how some of the markers of this trend, including hair slicked back into a bun, were signifiers of low economic status and working in fast food or custodial industries. They stated that for people in positions of privilege, appropriation is like trying on aesthetics as if they were costumes without having to deal with the repercussions that marginalized people face.

“The Mad TV skit, ‘Bon Qui Qui,’ it was a skit with a woman who was Latina and she had slicked-back hair and she would wear hoops and lip liner with lip gloss and the joke about it was it was ghetto … There’s a real cultural and socioeconomic signifier with this, and now we have people like Hailey Bieber who is looking cute, and fresh and flirty, right? And it’s not. You want to appropriate lower socioeconomic status, but you don’t want to acknowledge the trauma that is there,” Flores said.

Flores also spoke about the importance of giving marginalized people the credit they

deserve for their fashion and presentation choices, while also allowing them to dress in ways that make them feel comfortable and confident.

“When I can feel comfortable and proud of the way that I look, I can navigate this world in much more effective ways. I can go to class, I can get my homework done, I can finish my degree, I can do all of these things. So, the ways that we dress and the ways that we show ourselves are more than just an aesthetic: it is a lifeline for so many of us,” Flores said.

Though the fashion industry may have a frivolous connotation attached to it, fashion and self-expression are far deeper than some might think, and as consumers of fashion we have a responsibility to be mindful of how our choices impact not only ourselves, but those around us.

Sierra Martinez is a freelance reporter at the Daily Lobo. She can be reached at culture@ dailylobo.com or on Twitter @sierraaspen11

OPINION: Incorporating red carpet looks into your 2023 fashion

By Sierra Martinez @sierraaspen11

As the new year is well under way, so is award season. Whether you love or love to hate celebrity culture, there is no doubt that you have stumbled across some of the season’s most memorable red carpet looks. From Zendaya to Michelle Yeoh to Jenna Ortega, the biggest stars in Hollywood have given us all some much needed inspiration for our 2023 wardrobes. While many of us may never get the chance to walk a real red carpet (sigh), that doesn’t mean we can’t incorporate some of the glitz and glamour that we see on our favorite celebrities into our own outfit rotation.

One of the biggest award season trends this year has been fabric flowers — think Zendaya’s pink Valentino Screen Actors Guild Awards gown, or Lizzo’s orange Dolce & Gabbana Grammy ensemble.

Fabric flowers and floral patterns have been all the rage for celebrities as we enter spring: “Florals? For Spring? Groundbreaking.” So, how can we incorporate this trend into our own closet if a Valentino haute couture gown is a little outside our budget? Simple: floral patterns are nothing new to the world of fashion — you probably already have some in your closet. One way to update this timeless

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motif is to look for pieces with fabric flowers already sewn on, or better yet, pin a fabric flower to a basic article of clothing or to a choker.

Following the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, we have left behind the era of athleisure and have instead opted for more “going out” looks. This desire for opulence has manifested on the red carpet in the form of textures and fabrics including satin, sequins and metallics. Some of the celebrities donning these looks have been Beyoncé and Taylor Swift at the Grammys, Jennifer Coolidge at the Golden Globes and Quinta Brunson at the SAG Awards.

How can we participate in this trend when we’re going to school, work or the grocery store? If you’re not comfortable wearing a sequin dress to run errands, or have yet to find the perfect satin button-up for work, consider accessorizing.

Accessories can take a look from minimalist to extravagant in no time with little effort. A pair of satin gloves, a sequin purse or even metallic shoes may be just the thing you need to mimic your favorite celebrity without breaking the bank.

Due to their popularity over the last few years, articles of clothing with cutouts continue to be on trend in 2023. Celebrities like Aubrey Plaza at the SAG Awards, Lily James at the Golden Globes and Janelle Monáe at the

Critics’ Choice Awards have each taken part in this trend in varying ways. Whether at the midriff, the chest or the hips, cutouts are so versatile that they can be appropriate for any occasion, can elevate any outfit and, with a simple Google search, can be very easy to find.

Although these styles are trending in fashion right now, it is important to remember that none of us are under any obligation to participate. Fashion is meant to be fun and a form of self-expression, so at the end of the day, the best things to wear are the things that make us feel the most comfortable, confident and even glamorous.

Sierra Martinez is a freelance reporter at the Daily Lobo. She can be reached at culture@ dailylobo.com or on Twitter @sierraaspen11

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UNM alumna Riley Del Rey (center) poses on the red carpet with the cast of “Capitol Barbie” for the premiere of its pilot episode at the Guild Cinema on June 27, 2021.

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Jobs Off Campus

THE LAW FIRM of Robles, Rael & Anaya, P.C. is seeking a candidate for their runner position who will also be responsible for other duties as assigned. Experience is a plus, but not required. A reliable form of transportation is required. Benefits offered to full-time employees. Mileage reimbursement. Resumes can be emailed to Chelsea Sandoval, chelsea@ roblesrael.com.

KIMO’S HAWAIIAN BBQ on Girard and Candelaria is hiring! We are looking for cashiers and food truck staff. Contact Chama at chamastrange@ yahoo.com if interested. Mahalo!

THE NEW MEXICO Judicial Branch is seeking an inaugural director for the Administrative Office of the Courts Court Education Services Division.

The CES Director works closely with the AOC Director and Deputy Director under the guidance of the New Mexico Supreme Court directing and managing court education in New Mexico.

The CES Director will have the opportunity to play a crucial role in developing and implementing training and education programs