FW
2010
CONNECT CAPTIVATE CR E AT E
$ 5 . 9 5
C A N
AVAILABLE AT LEO BOUTIQUE 810B 16TH AVE SW CALGARY
S E T:
Concrete Jewelry Collection www.konzuk.com 1 888 858 7793
06
09
The Boss Speaks – C O M M E N T A R Y
11
Shout Outs – C L I Q U E
14
Coco & Violet / Evan Biddell – C O R N E R
17
Essential Adornment – C O M P L I M E N T S
20
The Boy Next Door – C A T C H
C O
N
F A S H I O N C ATA LY S T S O F C A L G A R Y 27
C A I T L I N , T H E P O W E R - F U L – D E S I G N E R F E AT U R E
35
Alberta Fashion Designers F/W 2010 – C O L L E C T I O N S
T
E
N
T S
21
PA R A L L E L FA S H I O N
41
DENIM DAZE
57
T H E D E AT H O F D R E S S I N G U P
65
70
Wilford Barrington – C R A F T
71
Model Cover – C A S T
75
Behind The Scenes – C O V E R A G E
77
Alexander McQueen – C A L L O U T
F/W
M E L I S S A W U S AT Y EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
LIONEL CIPRIANO ALLISON TOOHEY C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R S & D E S I G N E R S
SANDRA CROSS EXECUTIVE EDITOR
CONGLOMERATE is published bi-annually by Conglomerate Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in Conglomerate are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the publisher. Canada’s Fashion Week Magazine is a registered trademark of Conglomerate Publishing Ltd. ©
A M Y LY N N S T R I L C H U K FASHION DIRECTOR
MELISSA CHOW F E AT U R E S E D I T O R
NAHRI CHI ANGELA KIM TRENDS & ACCESSORIES EDITORS
PRINTING Sundog Press, Printed in Canada
PUBLISHING
KARLEEN SAMSON STYLE DIRECTOR
Conglomerate Publishing Ltd.
D AV I D A U S T I N MAILING ADDRESS 1600 90th Avenue SW P.O. Box 72163, Calgary, AB T2C 5A8
WEB DIRECTOR
A N D R E W TAY L O R ADVERTISING
DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
s.young@conglomeratemag.com
DISTRIBUTION a.taylor@conglomeratemag.com
conglomeratemag.com
SY D N E Y YO U N G MARKETING DIRECTOR
2010
c o
m
m
e
n
t a
r y
09 THE F/W 2010 ISSUE
Canada is a remarkable country; we can aspire to be anything we want. Where else in the world can you dream as big as we do? Despite all the wonderful possibilities Canada offers, we consistently complain and look at other countries with envy in our eyes, thirsting for their culture, as if they had accomplished everything instantaneously. Canada is significantly younger when compared to our older siblings - we are barely brushing our own teeth. Regardless, we still torment ourselves by comparing our nation to others, as if we were the same. The truth is, we are not the same and probably never will be. With all the good around us, we still place more emphasis on the bad. It is true, like many Canadians, I have a love/hate relationship with the country: I have succeeded and failed, been supported and rejected, been recruited and made redundant (more than I would like to admit), and been listened to and ignored. Canada has chased me away, provoking me to find refuge in other countries, but despite my readiness to leave at the speed of light, the nation still welcomes me back faithfully. There are some industries in Canada that face unremitting disapproval, and are never as good as those found in other nations - fashion is no exception. I have spent my fair share of time mouthing off anyone who suggested I was foolish for dedicating my life to fashion, let alone Canadian fashion. I am tired of listening to people complain about Canada’s fashion industry. Kicking up a fuss never accomplishes anything, so why don’t we put our heads together and do something worthwhile? Enter Conglomerate. United by our optimism, diverse expertise, and unwavering dedication to Canada’s fashion industry, we set out to work towards a common aspiration that will benefit the nation and its talent. Deviating from conventional fashion publishing, Conglomerate portrays Canadian fashion in an unparalleled manner. Intelligent and slick, we strive to recognize, celebrate and promote the designers, businesses, and industry professionals that move this nation’s fashion industry forward. We connect Canadians to their fashion industry, captivate those who are interested in fashion, and create opportunities to succeed. For Fall/Winter 2010 we started on home soil. Calgary is a slumbering giant. Much like Canada, it is also brimming with potential, and if given some thought, collaboration, and patience, it will most certainly be a force to be reckoned with. We have set our sights on Canada, however, and have thoughtfully included as much of Alberta and Canada’s talent as possible for our inaugural issue. We desire to do well for the entire country rather than favour select cities, and we feel, judging by the support we have received, we will accomplish this in our coming issues. This is the Conglomerate.
M E L I S S A W U S AT Y
C
L
I
Q
U
E
11
3
D A V I D F EN T ON PHOTOGRAPHer David Fenton describes his work as a marriage of colour, composition, and storytelling.
The process of creating
something from a relatively simple concept and transforming it into a highly detailed image is a labor of love; often infuriating but equally gratifying.
His visual stories are
captivating enough for his viewer to get lost in.
4
Fa r z i n g h ay o u r PHOTOGRAPHer Farzin Ghayour believes there is nothing more inspirational than working in the fashion industry. Having the opportunity to be constantly challenged in an environment that fosters creativity and collaboration, Farzin finds the motivation to push his craft further.
5
Robyn Jamieson P hotograph e r Robyn Jamieson does not believe in the mundane. Known for her ability to extract the extraordinary from her seemingly ordinary, commercial subjects, Robyn enjoys hunting for the perfect solution to an image - with an obvious quirk thrown in.
6
K AREN K LA S S EN I LL U S T R A T O R Karen Klassen is an illustrator who is happiest while she’s making something. Activities she enjoys: drawing, painting, sewing, baking, designing spaces, and dirt biking.
7
RO X ANNE W ANG I LL U S T R A T O R Roxanne Wang is a Calgary based freelance illustrator. With a love of fashion, birds, and literature, her work centers around contemporary adaptations of universal themes.
michael morrison P hotograph e r
1
8
T HERE S A J ALO T J O T H A I R S t y l ist
Michael Morrison grew up among a small tribe within the
Theresa Jalotjot has honed her skills as a hairstylist for
Amazon Rainforest. Despite being declared king, he ventured
two years, designing hair directives for some of Calgary’s
to the West with hopes of becoming the best professional
premier fashion events, collaborating with some the city’s
hockey player ever. After winning championships on every
finest photographers, and building a strong client base at
team Michael felt there was more to give the world. It was
Hedkandi Salon. Theresa has earned her a coveted spot at
then that he discovered photography. Michael now takes
the Vidal Sassoon Academy in London, England, whwere she
pretty pictures.
wishes to expand her skills and creativity.
ellen lagore PHOTOGRAPHer
2
9
OLGA ONULO V m a k e - up artist
Ellen Lagore appreciates the physical design of objects and
Olga Onulov loves the expression, freedom and possibilities
takes pride in being able to represent their eccentricities in
that makeup provides from pure and simple beauty to
a clean and concise image. While shooting Conglomerate’s
complete transformations. As a freelance artist, she gained
product features, Ellen found inspiration in her subjects,
extensive popularity, due to her diverse competencies in this
allowing her to contribute to the forum of fashion in an
competitive field. Her sharp sense of aesthetics, artist’s touch
alternative manner.
and understanding of the creative process, make her a vital component to a successful shoot.
Online BOutique
splitpeavintage.com
From the Hills to the Prairies B Y A N G EL A K I M P hotograph e r D a v id A ustin
The face of Calgary’s fashion scene is constantly changing, morphing some of city’s most lively streets into hightoned shopping destinations.
Despite
the economic downturn, Forth Street has become punctuated by a series of polished fashion boutiques. Coco & Violet is one of the few boutiques that has prospered in a challenging market. While many businesses buckled under, childhood friends, Helen Nguyen and Hien Huynh, merged their substantial experience and keen sense of style to open their own fashion port of call. Since opening the doors to their Mission boutique in August 2008, Nguyen and Huynh have welcomed Calgary’s fashion enthusiasts and taste makers with open arms. Catering to the discerning and demanding tastes of downtown patrons, Coco & Violet’s style mavens have produced a stunningly original shopping experience. Described as feminine and eclectic, their alluring white boutique is accented with splashes of violet and magenta, charming chandeliers, and quirky furniture. The interior of Coco & Violet is an extension of the store’s glamourous and fun design
Clothing that is comfortable, accessible,
this fashion mantra in mind, they encourage
aesthetic; fresh, hard-to-find, and marvelous
unique, and constructed with quality attract
women to treat the boutique like a girlfriend’s
treasures can be discovered throughout the
the buying duo to a designer’s collection
closet, where they can comfortably try new
store, waiting to be tried on. While jeans
at trade shows, not flimsy bohemian style;
trends and discover a personal sense of style
and tees are plentiful, other pieces at Coco &
house favourites include Madison Marcus,
with ease.
Violet are carried in four units to encourage
LnA, Rachel Pally, Rory Beca, and Twelfth
individuality; once an item is sold out, it can
Street by Cynthia Vincent.
17-2500 4th Street SW Calgary Alberta
only be found on its proud owner.
While Nguyen finds inspiration in her travels
1 403 244 6234 | cocoandviolet.com
Delivery of trends is spot on. Nguyen and
and Huynh admires the average woman’s
Huynh spend countless hours and air miles
ability to express herself through clothing,
filling their store with vanguard items that
both agree feeling confident is a necessary
have not yet received publicity in magazines,
step towards educating oneself about
been worn by a celebrity, or ripped off by
fashion and exploring what works best for
online fashion store.
different bodies, lifestyles, and tastes. With
14 c o r n e r
T HERE ’ S NO P LACE LI K E OZ B Y A MY LY N N S T R I L C H U K PHOTOGRAPHER JOSEPH FUDA
Leading into LG Fashion Week, it was
eclectic Ossington Street; a one of a kind
surprising that Evan Biddell (seemingly)
studio boutique called OZ.
chose not to showcase his Fall/Winter 2010
Partnering with his photographer-friend,
collection in Canada’s biannual blowout of
Joseph Fuda, Biddell is not only showcasing
big-name designers. After being shoved
his threads in the space Fuda redesigned, it
into the spotlight by winning Project Runway
will also serve as Fuda’s photography studio.
Canada in 2007, launching his progressive
The two met years ago, when Biddell moved
and successful line with the prize winnings,
to Toronto; first they were merely neighbors
not only are we addicted to Biddell, we
but then slowly started working together.
expect him to deliver his gorgeous garments
After creating a strong look book for Biddell
on a regular basis.
in 2009, Biddell was smitten with Fuda’s skills
We should have known that this spirited
and the two continued to forge a friendship.
Saskatoon native always has a trick up his
Speaking with Biddell about Fuda and their
savvy sleeve. While many of us have been
relationship, he couldn’t be more enthusiastic
stewing over Biddell’s next steps, he has been
about the decision to open OZ together or
quietly restoring a year-old shop on Toronto’s
more complimentary of the supportive Fuda,
shop,” adding with a laugh, “we’ve been
identity. Returning to cutting cloth himself
talking about recording people’s reactions
and working on his signature style, Biddell
when they walk in.”
has taken a wild journey that has essentially
Besides the exciting juxtaposition created
brought him back exactly to where he
between the clothing and the space,
started. “I am now where I would have been
customers at OZ will also be treated to a
had Project Runway Canada not happened.”
unique, high-end shopping experience. “No
That isn’t to say that the past few years
rolling racks!” Biddell exclaims.
Instead,
haven’t taught Biddell a few things: “When I
twenty dress forms will replicate each look
started PRC I knew who I was and what I was
in a collection, allowing customers to buy
doing. So I thought. Then I realized: I don’t
pieces fresh from the runway.
know anything!” While his technique is the
Biddell is also no stranger to running his
same, his taste has evolved and the notorious
own boutiques, having owned three separate
rebel is “more in the know” than he was when
shops in the early days of his design career.
he first started in the business.
So how did the self-taught, west coast
For Biddell, OZ is not only the space to return
wunderkind wind up almost exactly in the
to his design roots, it’s a place for him to call
same place he started – selling his wares
home with his dear, creative friend. And for
within his own walls? “I’m more comfortable
those of us who love Biddell’s aesthetic and
making and selling wild pieces but buyers
crave a unique boutique, there really is no
edit down your work and decide what sells.
place like OZ.
Being a luxury brand in Canada isn’t easy so instead of fighting that battle, I’ve decided
134 Ossington Ave Toronto Ontario
to give customers direct access to my work
info@evanbiddell.ca | evanbiddell.ca
because even when people are interested in buying my work, they don’t know exactly where to go.” Though Biddell will be filling
the boutique and bringing buyers directly
with the renovation of the building, Biddell
through the shop doors.
says, “Joe redesigned the space himself,
Though OZ marks an important next step for
leaving the original moldings and exposed
Biddell’s business, it is a direct result of recent
brick walls so the shop maintains its history.”
decisions surrounding his brand. For the past
Maintaining the store’s aged décor fits well
few years, Biddell’s rapidly budding profile
with Ossington’s vibe, but also provides
forced him to start solidifying his identity
a great framework for Biddell’s first set
as a designer. Being in the unique position
of garment’s being sold: his Spring 2010
of having notoriety before the launch of
collection. Biddell says of OZ: “the space
his label, Biddell’s brand quickly became
is so old but the pieces in my collection are
corporate – a direction he instinctively
so futuristic. I’m really curious how people
rejected.
are going to respond when they enter the
gears and started to embrace his artistic
As a result, Biddell switched
16
r
relationship with his customers, promoting
out there, front and centre. Crediting Fuda
e
the moment he is focusing on creating a
joined efforts, OZ is putting Biddell’s work
n
out OZ’s online shopping component, for
out on the Toronto streets.” Thanks to their
c o r
“Joe really wanted to help get my pieces
the designer pen by NAHRI CHI PHOTOGRAPHER ELLEN LAGORE
1
Despite this modern age of laptops, smart phones, electronic agendas, and PIN num-
2
bers for credit cards, the writing instrument still perseveres. Moreover, the pen has evolved and burgeoned; it is no longer treated simply as a utilitarian tool imprisoned in its bland and boring encasement. There is a plethora of aesthetically pleasing pens in the market today, as these daily necessities are being adorned with gems, precious metals, intricate designs, and glossy surfaces in a medley of colours and shapes. They are meticulously crafted to create a design that balances artistic beauty with functional and ergonomic integrity. For instance, Visconti uses a method called “squaring of the circle” for a selection of their pens that serves to maintain the visually smooth appearance of the pen whilst preventing it from rolling away on a hard surface. Other such intricate details of designer pens include the spring-loaded clip that adapts to various thicknesses and magnetic features for multipurpose usage. Porsche Design utilizes their knowledge of automobile engineering by creating a pen that flexes when you push it, similar to the break line of a car. Despite all the practical features, the true beauty of these pens lies in their sheer aesthetic design. Descriptions such as “platinum-plated” and “jewel-encrusted” are no longer limited to jewelry! The pen of today
3
4
5
is valued not for its ink, but rather for its image; think of the designer pen as a woman’s newest adornment to compliment her manicured nails. Similarly, the pen serves to be a subtle yet significant status symbol for the modern man. Such pens are not tossed in the bottom of briefcases and backpacks; instead they are proudly housed close to the heart, in the breast pocket of a suit jacket. The crème de la crème of the designer pen world is Montblanc. Their logo, a white six-pointed star with round edges (an aerial representation of the snowcapped mountains of Mont Blanc), is synonymous with sophistication, success, and ultimate style. Although in the past, the designer pen has been predominantly catered towards the cuff-link sporting cor-
17
porate male, this is definitely no longer the case. With so many colours, shapes, and prices to choose from, designer pens are now coveted by all those who are in the
C O
M P
L
I
M E
N
T S
know. Think of the designer pen as a long-term investment as it is easily and cost-effectively refillable.Signing your name along the dotted line has never been so fashionable!
C A T A
L O
G
18
Valentino Garavani: A Grand Italian Epic, released by distinguished art book publisher, Taschen, memorializes the couturier’s paramount role in fashion. Despite the prevalent viral spread of trends, Valentino built his empire based on timeless, wearable beauty. Taschen’s compilation of essays, newspaper articles, campaigns, candid snapshots, retrospectives, and intimate musings from fellow colleagues and industry professionals captures Valentino’s unwavering desire to accomplish more than commercial success. A Grand Italian Epic emphasizes all facets of Valentino’s rise to notoriety, including the triumphs and continuous struggles that distinguished him from his contemporaries. Taschen’s prodigious homage to Valentino’s career 6
7
avoids solemnly casting his name into the dark recesses of history, rather celebrating it vivaciously. A Grand Italian Epic is not a bitter reminder, but a lively commemoration, ensuring the designer and his clothes are not soon forgotten. For those unacquainted with the details of Valentino’s career, but aware of his unparalleled commitment and contribution to the fashion
1. Visconti - Opera Elements ($310)
industry, Taschen’s publication will be much
2. Mont Blanc – Classique ($380)
appreciated. For those who consequently
3. Waterman - Perspective ($180)
lowered their heads following his retire-
4. Porsche Design – P3110 ($275)
ment, A Grand Italian Epic will most defi-
5. Graf Von Faber Castell - Classic ($500)
nitely be cherished. An era in fashion has
6. Montegrappa – Celluloid ($375)
ended, but Valentino’s loyal crusaders will
7. Mont Blanc – Thomass Mann ($840)
ensure his success is not lost in vain.
Available at Reid’s Stationers
Available at Indigo bookstores chapters.indigo.ca
710 17 Avenue SW Calgary Alberta 1 403 229 4400
mealan.com | 1518 4th St. SW | Calgary, Alberta. | 403 457 4020 |
BRIEFCASE The poor briefcase: shunned and hidden in the back of numerous coat closets around the world.
Most associate the practical C A T C
accessory with words like “stuffy” which subsequently conjures images of an outdated and undesirable man. Sure digital devices are handy, but what happens when you have to
H
keep an important document safe and crisp? Many men opted to transport their papers
20
and office necessities in unfashionable, corporate, nylon bags until masculine purses, or murses for a lack of better word (shudder), emerged in the late nineties and persisted into the new millennium. We have seen them all, crowding the local Starbucks in all their slouchy, canvas glory. There is nothing remotely professional about an unstructured satchel. Behold the return of the briefcase in textured leathers and lightweight designs. No longer boring and impractical, the modern briefcase can be found in beautiful hues of camel, mahogany, and espresso, along with black and white, to reflect the tastes of modern men. I dare you to pinpoint an alternative practical accessory that is more dashing than the modern briefcase.
BY ANGELA KIM PHOTOGRAPHER ELLEN LAGORE
CUFFLINKS The boyfriend blazer. The French-cuff shirt. The wing-tip oxford. With the influx of menswear in the modern woman’s closet, those little baubles known as cufflinks can hardly be dismissed with a sniff. The cufflink has persevered through several transformations since its utilitarian beginnings in the sixteenth-century. Initially, the cufflink consisted only of string until more aesthetically pleasing designs were introduced. Elaborately decorated studs were introduced in the eighteenth-century, replacing lackluster string and humble glass buttons. The cufflink is now an ornamental fastener found in a plethora of metals, jewels, and crystals. Traditional silk-knots offer a less ostentatious option, but who can resist the sophisticated allure of a glistening cufflink? There are abundant options: genteel Burberry, whimsical Paul Smith and Thomas Pink, or the bold, bejeweled designs by Simon Carter and Duchamp. No longer exclusive to the Don Drapers of the world, these little gems add charm and verve to all the Bettys and Peggys, and should be a welcomed addition to any jewelry box.
BRIEFCASE JB BAGS CUFFLINKS BANANA REPUBLIC
FASHION CATALYSTS OF CALGARY
A l b e r ta Fa s h i o n W e e k BY SANDRA CROSS Think Alberta is only known for oil, beef, and cowboys? Think again. Think fashion. Think designers. Think Alberta Fashion Week. Debuting in October 2009, AFW definitely proved itself a force to be reckoned with. Well thought through, the event surpassed everyone’s expectations and was the place for Alberta fashionistas to see and be seen. Like any newborn, however, AFW will have its share of growing pains and milestones to conquer as it matures over the course of subsequent seasons. And what exactly did these fashionistas see? Well to begin, one of the most dramatic locations in Calgary – The Banke. Built in 1929, the old Bank of Nova Scotia on historic Stephen Avenue, with its high ceilings, grand staircase, eye-catching chandeliers, and more marble than Michelangelo’s studio, is the perfect intimate location for such a formidable event. Think Vanderbilt mansion. In this picture perfect venue, those fashionistas saw something else: fashion. Alberta’s emerging designers lined up next to established talent and definitely held their
The following organizations have paved
own. Thirty-two designers in all showcased
t h e way f o r C a l g a r y ’s p ro l i f e ra t i n g
their creativity in everything from casual
fashion industry. They are the pioneers,
wear to intricate gowns and bridal wear,
forerunners, and instigators that have
and everything in between.
performances featured local models, expertly
celebrate the city’s emerging metropolitan
made up by resident makeup artists and
status. Alberta Fashion Week, Fashion
hair designers, transporting spectators out
Central, PARK, and CalgaryFashion.
of cowtown for the week and into a fashion
ca are budding but their potential is
metropolis. Think an inaugurate Toronto.
blatant; the Conglomerate team examines
But this was only the beginning. Alberta
each, discussing their role and how they
Fashion Week is back, March 20th to 27th, to
influence Calgary in the future.
pick up where it left off in the fall, showcasing
i l l u s t ra t O R k ar e n k l ass e n
even more talent as designers present their Autumn/Winter collections. David Politi, AFW director, and his accomplished crew have planned another amazing week of chic runway shows, trendy trunk sales, and stylish parties. As Politi has said in the past, “A celebration of Alberta’s independent designers is long overdue, and this is one party that will never go out of style.” So Alberta will once again trade in its cowboy boots and coveralls for stilettos and suits, and immerse itself in a world of fashion and all that Alberta Fashion Week has to offer, truly an event no fashionista would miss. albertafashionweek.ca
21
The runway
challenged convention and skepticism to
F A SHION C ENTR A L B Y M e l i ssa W u sa t y Fashion Central has been eagerly anticipated for some time now.
The retail complex,
comprised of three historical buildings on
P A RK B Y M e l i ssa W u sa t y
Stephen Avenue and First Street SW, has been shrouded in mystery and profuse
Now in their second year, PARK, an acronym
construction since 2007. Anxious fashion enthusiasts were finally
for “promoting artists and redefining kulture,”
able to satisfy their curiosity when the
continues to draw inspiration and exuberance
complex opened its doors early February.
from Calgary’s resilient arts community.
Those who attended the launch party were
The nonprofit organization, composed
treated to an eclectic array of food and drink
of students, young professionals and
while browsing through stores such as Betsey
entrepreneurs, set out to help burgeoning
Johnson, Murale, and Lara Presber’s flagship
artisans and artists gain professional exposure in Calgary. Confident that Calgary
boutique. The atmosphere was lively and
sophisticated. The impressively renovated
its stores, and attend its events, which is
has potential to be a cultural mecca and
retail haven boasts brilliant glass storefronts,
undeniably significant, but failed to connect
incubator for talent, PARKSALE, an annual
exposed brick and sandstone walls - an
to those who strive to make Calgary’s fashion
outdoor market where artisans, artists and
adaptive reuse of the building’s previous
industry stronger. Many of them may not
vendors can sell and feature their work, was
characteristics - and a feature staircase all
have deep pockets, but they are the people
created to provide an accessible alternative
within a brilliant, sky-lit atrium. The evening
who determine whether something is cool
for Calgary’s alienated arts community.
was a success, revitalizing Calgary’s sleepy
or not, which, as juvenile as it sounds, is the
It may be hard for some to believe,
downtown, and provided attendees a night
making or breaking point of many businesses,
but Calgary is brimming with visual
to remember.
especially in the fashion industry.
artists, apparel designers, photographers,
When the excitement and novelty
Those who meticulously select where they
comic book illustrators, musicians, dance
subsides, however, it is hard not to be
purchase clothing and fashion accessories
ensembles, toy makers, and spoken word
puzzled over Fashion Central.
Pouring
may find Fashion Central lacks a compelling
performers to name a few; unfortunately,
through numerous informational brochures
lifestyle. Consumers gravitate toward stores
many of these talents leave Calgary
and press releases, the motivation driving
that portray a strong brand and lifestyle,
after graduation or find more profitable
CALGARY IS CHANGING, AND MANY PEOPLE ARE RESISTANT BUT IF WE FAIL TO SUPPORT THE ARTS, Fashion Central forward is blatantly absent.
wherein said consumer can participate by
opportunities elsewhere. PARK wishes to
Apart from creating an alternative shopping
purchasing its goods, which explains why
slow or even reverse Calgary’s creative brain-
destination, and preserving some of Calgary’s
giants like Holt Renfrew or Ikea are always
drain by acknowledging its profuse talent.
historic architecture, why does Fashion
brimming with clients. Fashion Central has
Central exist? The complex merges familiar
not yet created a strong brand or a shopping
brands with local Canadian designers,
experience, but shows great potential to
offering a unique shopping experience for
reach this echelon.
those seeking an alternative to shopping
Fashion Central is, however, a positive
centres, but the foundation falls flat when it
step forward. It recognizes local talent,
is not supported by a sincere cause.
provides them the opportunity to be
Fashion Central is detached from Calgary’s
showcased in an appropriate venue, and
fashion industry and its principal members.
has attracted prominent brands to the
The fashion community in Calgary is small,
city. Most importantly, Fashion Central has
even a little obscure and exclusive, but its
acknowledged the fact that Calgary does
presence and influence is robust; they are
have a fashion industry. Fashion Central has
the wardrobe stylists, photographers, art
a lot to prove, and will have to earn its title
directors, fashion academics, journalists,
as Calgary’s central destination for fashion,
bloggers, business owners and young
but like all good things, it will take time and
creative teams that live, breathe, and speak
collaboration with the community to achieve
fashion. Calgary’s fashion authorities do not
its full potential.
just like fashion, they are comprehensively educated and unprecedented experts of fashion; their interest in the industry rests much deeper than clothing. Fashion Central made a connection to those who will frequent the complex, support
fashioncentral.ca
After completing an internship at Nylon
Magazine, Lionel Cipriano, PARK’s vice president of marketing and design, was shocked to learn how many Alberta College of Art and Design students were in New York City. “NYC is synonymous with the creative industries; anyone who works in fashion, design, or any other field requiring creative expression, strives to make it in NYC. It’s a tough city, few find success, but it’s shocking how there are more ACAD students finding work and surviving in NYC than in Calgary. That says a lot.” President Kara Chomistek agrees that Calgary is ignoring its wealth of talent. “Calgary is changing, and many people are resistant, but if we fail to support
C A L G A R Y F A SHION . C A BY SANDRA CROSS
the arts, Calgary will become desolate.
Being the head office capital of Canada
Calgary trendsetters who are well versed
to support local initiatives to enhance
means little if people have nothing to do
in all things vogue, know that getting
Calgary’s fashion industry, be it an interview
once they leave work.”
their fashion fill is as easy as the click of a
with an up and coming designer, a review
The creative masterminds behind PARK
mouse to none other than CalgaryFashion.
of new boutique in town, or coverage of a
agree it is unnecessarily challenging for
ca, where stylish articles, videos, and photo
remarkable event showcasing the talented
many young artisans and artists to gain
spreads abound.
Calgarian fashion community.
professional exposure; vendor fees and
Launched as a fashion blog in 2007,
Kudos to Jev who, after a heartening
high commission prices hinder many while
CalgaryFashion.ca has revamped its design to
experience at the second annual Downtown
obscure locations fail to attract steady
more sophisticated levels, beyond the realm
Calgary Fashion Week, started the humble
of “blogging” to full fledged online
blog alone, driven by her desire to fill a void
news status.
Founded by Kimberley
she saw in Calgary’s cultural community. At
Jev, a journalism student at Mount Royal
the present time, as the site has expanded, so
University, CalgaryFashion.ca was the
has Jev’s team, allowing the content to grow
traffic and attention. The first PARKSALE
first journalistic source for interviews with
as well to include feature articles, motion,
aimed to create a memorable event and
local designers, industry experts, and those
events, and more.
positive experience, and it did; the event
contributing to the local fashion community,
Whether you’re curious as to what Calgary
was an instant success, attracting seventy-
and has consequently developed quite the
has to offer, or already follow it faithfully,
five vendors and over eight hundred visitors.
loyal following amongst students and young
CalgaryFashion.ca will satiate your fashion
professionals.
palate with its creative coverage of all things
CALGARY WILL BECOME DESOLATE
Noteworthy talent that has benefited f ro m
PA R KSA L E
include:
designers
As the only online source dedicated to
Caitlin Power, Colour Design, Hannah
Calgary’s blossoming fashion industry, it is
Grant, Kara and Split Pea Vintage; dance
definitely the go to for what is on the up
ensemble Dangerkat; graphic designers
in up in the city, fashion wise and culturally
Matt Luckhurst and Van Charles; and
speaking. CalgaryFashion.ca also provides
photographer Amy Victoria Wakefield.
an opportunity for local fashion professionals
The youthful vigor motivating PARK is
to be praised and celebrated, as well as
key to its success. “We at PARK are young
affording them an opening to connect with
people making culture happen,” states the
other talent in the industry.
PARK website, “we have created PARK as
well is the effort CalgaryFashion.ca makes
vogue in the city. calgaryfashion.ca
[ C L O S E ]
Notable as
our chance to assert ourselves as a new and creative force within an already thriving city.” It is undeniably exciting and hard not to share PARK’s optimism. Driven by their own desire to create opportunities for success, the PARK team proves, once again, that it’s Calgary’s young professionals that propel Calgary forward, not deep pockets. ourparkonline.com
24
SONGKLA Quality Handcrafted Clothing & Leather Goods 1314 1st Street SW Calgary | 403 . 455 . 2275 www.songkla.ca
DRESS CAITLIN POWER SHOES H&M ACCESSORIES STYLIST OWN
CAITLIN THE
POWERFUL BY
MELISSA CHOW
PHOTOGRAPHER MODEL
LO C AT I O N
STYLIST
HAIR
DAV I D F E N TO N
RENA DONALDSON
T H E LO U G H E E D H O U S E C A LG A RY A L B E R TA
KA R L E E N SA M S O N & M E L I S SA W U SAT Y
T H E R E S A J A LO TJ O T
MAKEUP
OLGA ONULOV
T O P & PA N T S C A I T L I N P O W E R S H O E S H & M B A N G L E S S T Y L I S T O W N
D E S I G N E R F E AT U R E : CAITLIN POWER After countless hours of sketching, cutting,
particularly if worn with a blazer or leather
and sewing, Calgary’s Caitlin Power shows
jacket, allowing women to wear the piece at
Canada her creative arsenal - an indisputable
work or at night.
eye for design that is slowly gaining the young designer national acclaim.
So, who is the woman behind, or to be more precise, in front of the designing
After unleashing a fresh and glamorous
trenches? Caitlin Power – a name not to be
Spring/Summer 2010 collection, featuring
forgotten; as a fearless soldier in the fashion
floral bustiers, hot pants, leather accents,
battle, she will undoubtedly become one of
dolman-sleeved jackets, and flirty skirts in
Canada’s favorite young designers. the
her Spring/Summer collection, for which she
Conglomerate creative team set out to find
received rave reviews from CalgaryFashion.
Fundamentally, Power, 21, is a dynamic
the perfect location to compliment and
ca, who noted that her pieces were an
womenswear designer, constantly bursting
capture the collection’s glamourous nuances
experimentation with various shapes,
with inspiration; her upcoming Fall/Winter
on camera. Fittingly, the Lougheed House,
textures, and techniques. Consequently, they
2010 collection, which will be unveiled this
situated in the heart of downtown Calgary,
concluded, the collection was, “accessible,
was selected for its grandeur,
avant-garde, and [signal] more to come from
sophistication, and history. Built
this promising design house.”
striking colours, Caitlin Power is at it again, showing no sign of exhaustion.
Earlier
I WANT TO BE ACCOMPLISHED AS A DESIGNER ON A WORLD WIDE SCALE. FIRST, AND FOREMOST, IN CANADA...
this
year,
Power
and
in 1891, the sandstone mansion,
It is no surprise that Power has her
complete with 2.8 acres of garden,
sights set on growth.
transported the collection back to
trust in her design prowess and business
With unwavering
high-societal times, punctuating
model, Power endeavors to become a top
Power ’s decadent head-to-toe
Canadian brand that prioritizes the luxurious,
March at Alberta Fashion Week, is a living
looks. On set, Power’s quiet cunning and
using only magnificent fabrics, and supreme
testament of her boundless talent. For Fall/
composure was hard to ignore, cueing those
construction, ensuring that her clients will
Winter, Power demonstrates how masculine
around her to not be fooled by her age.
purchase a Power-piece as an investment.
and feminine lines can be delicately
While growing up, Power had always opted
“I want to be accomplished as a designer
juxtaposed to create an ideal silhouette,
for less-conventional career routes while
on a world-wide scale; first and foremost,
conjuring images of a futuristic Tamara de
her peers aspired to become veterinarians,
in Canada, then the United States, and then
Lempicka painting.
doctors, and business leaders. Not Power.
Europe. Ten years from now I want to be a
Power’s adroitly executed collection
Her first career choice was to play for the
well-known Canadian brand with at least one
is supremely luxurious, incorporating
Canadian Women’s Olympic Hockey Team. “I
flagship store in the country,” avows Power.
black and bronze leather, wine-hued silks,
was very athletic and I always wanted to do
geometric cut-outs, and subtle metallic
what my brother did,” laughs Power.
Calgary women are becoming very fashion savvy, very fast, and Power knows that this
Aside from the guts and glory of being
powerful market is the clientele to keep an
The mixture of minimalist
an athlete, she also took up sewing as a
eye on. She designs specifically for women
androgyny and old Hollywood glamour,
hobby. Since the family sewing machine
who are style-conscious and who value high
highlights Power’s ability to fuse contrastive
was broken, she was forced to hand-sew her
quality fabric and construction. “I picture a
aesthetics; the result is a beautiful fusion of
dolls with the scrap fabric she found around
professional woman between the ages of 25
Art Deco geometry and soft feminine lines,
the house. Shortly after, she began taking
and 40 years old, with a disposable income,
manifested in leather, silk, and lace.
sewing classes, which ultimately lead her to
who is not scared to try something new and
discover fashion design in Grade 7.
takes risks in fashion,” states Power.
zebra print to resurrect the ethos of Greta Garbo.
The most dramatic pieces are the dresses; masterfully constructed and undeniably sexy
Since graduating from Lethbridge
And taking risks is definitely something
without being ostentatious. From strapless
College in Fashion Design, Power has
Power is willing to do with her designs. She
creations, embellished by textured, leather
already made a name for herself by showing
credits the edginess of Gareth Pugh and
detailing at the bust, to floor sweeping,
her collections at the inaugural Alberta
the late Alexander McQueen, risk-takers
thigh revealing knock-outs, each dress is
Fashion Week, Calgary PARKSHOW, and
themselves, as inspirations for her pieces,
exquisitely devised.
Edmonton Fashion Week.
combining the toughness with the sensual romanticism of Chanel and Dior.
Although her collection is inspired by the
Looking through Power’s fashion resume,
sophisticated grandeur of the 1920s, Power
it is evident that the maturity found in
Wanting to learn more about this up-and-
has expertly revamped the past, making
her clothing far surpasses her youth. Her
coming designer, we picked her brain with
her clothing accessible. Power’s modern
irrefutable talent rests in her ability to balance
regards to her thoughts on Calgary’s current
clientele will love her steel-grey jumpsuit in
tailoring with softer design techniques such
state of fashion affairs and her love of
silk dupioni: definitely a multi-tasking piece,
as draping; proof of this was established in
personal shopping trips.
30
dress C A I T L I N P O W E R S H O E S A L D O glo v es aldo accessories aldo tights american apparel
Do you think Calgary will catch up to those scenes, like Toronto and Montreal, any time soon? In time, we will. However, the scene is starting from the bottom-up. All the young and talented trendsetters around the city are the individuals going to the fashion and art shows, and only a handful of corporate investors are present in the front row to see our designs. But, fashion is definitely part of our city culture now. Calgarians are becoming more educated in “getting the look” of the season and some individuals are really coming into their own sense of style. Yes, developing one’s sense of style is very important. What is your mantra on others having their own look? Personality definitely has to show through. I love it when people are outrageous and try new things, even if it isn’t something I would wear myself. If it makes them feel good and stand out, why not! Speaking of, what is a piece of clothing you wouldn’t wear? Leather pants. I’ve tried them on before and they are just not flattering on my body.
CAITLIN POWER Q&A
Actually, that is one piece of clothing that I have never tried on!
So, where would
Alberta Fashion Week is coming up! Are you
you go to shop in Calgary? I’m guessing
excited? Definitely! I am ready to release my
not at leather stores? To be honest, I hate
finished product to the world. I love showing
shopping! I think it is such a hassle. The
my pieces to others, especially here in my
whole idea of finding parking is the worst!
hometown, and seeing the result of all my
Especially, venturing downtown. I grew up
hard work. Although, preparing for a fashion
in south Calgary so I hardly took trips to the
show is exhausting, I love every minute of it.
core to shop. If I desperately needed to find a pair of jeans, I usually stop at an Aritzia,
Since, this is your second time showing
which never fails.
at AFW, you must have a grasp on what
33
Albertans, especially Calgarians, like in
When all’s said and done, with her
design. Where do you think Calgary fashion
noteworthy designs, Caitlin Power is going
is headed and how do your designs fit in
to go far in this challenging industry. “This
this role? Calgary fashion is growing fast. It
is a full-time deal for me,” insists Power, “and,
helps that our Fashion Week is in its second
usually my mom is up during the wee hours
season.
This inspires others to continue
of the night along with me, helping me with
doing what they are doing, whether it is
things like pressing garments. I am lucky to
designing, styling, photography, or starting
have such a great support network like my
magazines. I believe my designs confirm the
family. I wouldn’t make it in this industry
talent in Calgary, proving that you don’t need
without them.”
to be in Toronto to start a fashion career.
Power-ful young woman. Power-ful
My designs give hope to new designers, to
designs. Power-ful ambition. We wish Caitlin
know that they can make it big if they try
Power heaps of fashion luck. Although, we
hard enough.
don’t think she’ll need it. [ C L O S E ]
PA N T S U I T C A I T L I N P O W E R A C C E S S O R I E S S T Y L I S T O W N
01. Kirsten Summersgill Pout Clothing B Y S a n d r a C r o ss
Debuting her Fall/Winter 2010 collection at March’s Alberta Fashion Week, Kirsten Summersgill, head designer for Pout Clothing, is doing everything but sulking and moping these days. After graduating from Lethbridge College in 2009, she realized her dream and launched her own clothing line in September, and is working hard at establishing a client base. Summersgill designs for the modern fashionable woman and her many different personalities and moods:
powerful yet
sweet, strong yet feminine, sophisticated yet youthful. This dichotomy is found in her pieces as well, as she elaborates, “For this particular collection, I tried to focus on the idea of contrast. Many pieces are made from leather-type fabrics, but formed into draping or ruffles.” As for the pieces themselves, Summersgill’s inspiration lingered with the idea of cocktail parties, making dresses a staple in the collection, although she’s created a few jackets and tops to round out the set. Photographer Sabrina May emphasizes this point, and maintains that, “[Summersgill] has talent. I like the use of texture in her black and white line. Her pieces are clean and simple, using a minimal colour palette, but she uses very textured fabric and a lot of folds and pleats that make each piece stand out from the crowd.” As one of AFW’s rookies, Summersgill is proud and thrilled to be making her first appearance in front of a hometown crowd, and hopes that savvy Albertans will come to
36
recognize her brand. Like any new designer,
many responded negatively to the fur, the
however, Summersgill is feeling a bit of the
risqué move still fit his aesthetic. These were
pre-show jitters and pressure. “Although I
not pelts turned into garish garments, they
am finished my collection, there are always
were seductive adornments that commanded
some fears that cannot and will not subside
a strong presence in relation to the more
until after the show. I’m definitely a worrier,
understated items found in each look - raw
so I do everything I can to ensure that the
fibres, raw hides.
show goes as smoothly as possible.”
Taddeo’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection,
With the support of friends and family,
Vive la Révolution, also caused similar
Summersgill and Pout Clothing will hopefully
commotion when high-cut, bare-back
leave the worrying behind and enjoy the
bodysuits fiercely found their way at the
experience.
All things considered, AFW
centre of everyone’s attention. Typically, a
patrons are sure to leave with nothing but
barely-there garment does not send hearts
smiles after witnessing the promising young
a-flutter when it floats down the runway, but
designer’s apparel.
Taddeo’s choice aroused doubts regarding
02. T r av i s Ta d d e o B Y A m y L y n n S t r i lc h u k
his street cred, challenging the widespread notion that his designs are always wearable. In response to this, Taddeo stated, “my work is high-end street wear but it is created for the runway so it’s intended to have that
C O
L
L
E C
T
I
O
N
03. Jenna Etcheverry Madame Wolf B Y A m y L y n n S t r i lc h u k
impact. I don’t expect my clients to wear just the bodysuit in public – it’s meant to be
Designer Jenna Etcheverry embodies
worn under jeans. But if a woman wants to
everything hot and happening in Southern
wear it while on a yacht cruise, by all means
Alberta.
– she should rock it!”
approach to life is “work hard, play hard,”
For a blonde beauty whose
While S/S 2010 was a sexy, steamy street
Etcheverry is successfully melding her
collection, F/W 2010 has an intentionally
lively lifestyle with her raw talent and keen
glacial countenance. Quiet Buffalo, the name
business sense.
of the collection inspired by Ray Petri, will
Sketching designs since high school,
showcase what Taddeo calls “haute couture,
Etcheverry initially found inspiration in her
bad boy tribal fashion.” Petri, the 80s ground-
friends’ bold personalities. A few years later,
breaking stylist whose stark editorials for The
Etcheverry is now designing her garments to
Face Magazine remixed street wear with high
attract a more mature clientele, basing her
fashion, is a near-perfect parallel to Taddeo’s
collection on the provocative traits of grown
passions. Inspired by Petri’s work, Taddeo
women. Madame Wolf reflects the lifestyle
incorporated many of the stylist’s signature
of a, “cool, confident woman in her 20s who
pairings but made them his own, resulting in
wants something a little different.”
Travis Taddeo’s high-end street wear has
“a b-boy tribal look” for the collection. F/W
After launching Madame Wolf in 2009,
been a hot commodity in Canada for nearly
2010 will also mark Taddeo’s first completely
young, vibrant Calgarian women have
ten years. With his tasteful penchant for
dark collection; not a single sliver of the
been snatching up her body-conscious
mixing jersey, silk, denim and leather, Taddeo
colour-wheel can be found in his fabrics.
skirts and dresses, proudly parading their
has gained acclaim for combining sleek
Asking Taddeo what stirred the dark pot, he
physiques through Etcheverry’s attention
textures, in a mélange of cool hues, with
responded, “it could be because the photos
to the female form.
sexy and sophisticated results. Best worn
of Ray’s work are almost all black and white –
attraction to sexy silhouettes, Etcheverry
on lithe bodies, Taddeo’s line favours sinewy
or it could be my maturity as a designer.” He
also emphasizes that her garments work in
scenesters who want to look simultaneously
then comically simplifies the style-analysis by
more conservative settings with the addition
chic and hip.
nimbly offering, “or maybe it’s just because
of layers. As Etcheverry says, “some short
I’m drawn to darks right now.”
skirts may not feel right for the office but
While Taddeo, the modern Montréaler,
Though she has an
may typically avoid austere accessories, two
Whatever side of the moon the fair
components found in his previous collections
Montréaler is on, we know he will emerge
have sparked criticism.
His Fall/Winter
with the hottest pairings of sleek separates -
In addition to prioritizing the female
2009 collection, Disruptive Calm, shocked
pieces that we will proudly don and swagger
form, Etcheverry also ensures that unique
a few fans with his use of fur. True to form,
down any city sidewalk in Canada.the back.
fabrics are integral to her garments. Always
you can totally make them work with a pair of tights underneath.”
however, Taddeo made a simple but bold
on the prowl for an appealing pattern or
statement by slinging animal pelts (mostly
texture, Etcheverry often tracks down fabrics
silver fox), held together single metal hoops,
while roaming various cities throughout
over his male and female models. While
the continent. The most important piece
S
in her collection is the iconic wolf t-shirt
were there, something Shell prides herself
collection at AFW expect at this year’s
found in most souvenir shops across the
on. “I want these bags to scream and garner
show? Mischievous Sarah is going to keep
Prairies. Inspiring the label’s namesake, it
that attention on their own merit, but I’d
them guessing a little, offering only that,
literally launched her Spring/Summer 2009
also like to provide a show for the audience.
“This collection will be different from what
collection - the slim, silkscreened wolf tank
They have invested their time and efforts
you’ve seen before, while maintaining the
was paired with a voluminous navy bubble
to attend and they deserve to be treated to
442 concepts.
skirt and chain belt.
something great – glam, glitz, fashion that
previous seasons. All I’m going to say is
It’s definitely sexier than
Heading into Fall/Winter 2010, Etcheverry
makes their hearts flutter, and knowing they
Brigitte Bardot on a saddle…” Is it getting
is riffing off her attraction to the wolf by
attended something special. I think the 442
hot in here, or is it just me?
running wild with some of Mother Nature’s
McAdam show will accomplish this.”
other predators.
Designer Sarah Shell is definitely the
“I’m playing more with
Shell is back for what will surely be
whole package – smart, funny, creative, and
the hawk and the bear right now, using
another stunning showing at the Fall/Winter
wickedly talented. 442 McAdam is worthy
tassels, feathers and earth tones in my next
instalment of AFW this March. As a highly
of all the support we can give, as a Canadian
collection.” After showing her sketches, which
anticipated returning designer, undoubtedly
accessories line that is definitely going
her latest collection is based, Etcheverry
the pressure is on to produce an equally well-
somewhere. And as judicious consumers,
has infused her signature, statuesque siren
executed line, but Shell is quick to point out
we’d be silly to go somewhere without a 442
with an air of Mother Earth: envision strong
that she is mostly excited and very proud to
McAdam piece in hand.
hourglass-figures with head dresses and
be returning to Calgary, the launching point
feather earrings. It’s Southern Alberta sexy
of 442 McAdam. That said, she is still a bit
at its best and the soul of Madame Wolf
nervous and feels the pressure, as she affirms,
herself: unique, spirited and proud to be the
“I feel like I’m bringing the line back to its
irresistible, urbane creature she is.
original consumers and I am nervous because
04.
I want them to be proud and continue to see 442 McAdam as their own – I guess I feel a little bit like Katie and David [AFW directors] are my parents and the audience are my siblings … I just want them to love the bags and for them to know I’ve succeeded this far because of their support.” And love the bags we do! Definitely items that are well thought through, 442 McAdam’s handbags are tooled only from the finest of leathers and use the most striking hardware, making them a must-have for discerning women everywhere. Shell’s design process begins with observing the world around her, ultimately, she attests that her inspiration and final product, “comes when least expected.
05. Anji Yeonji Kim - [anji.k] B Y M e l i ss a W u s a t y
I spend months observing, coming up with details, original silhouettes, and I sketch
Anji Yeonji Kim admits she never considered
endlessly until I get butterflies.
It’s the
jewellery design as a career, but always knew
butterflies that scream ‘I want that!’ and I
her vocation needed to be gratifying. While
know I’m on to something … When the first
enrolled at the Haskayne School of Business,
Think runway shows are all about the
finished product is complete, it always feels
Kim felt there was something missing from
clothes? Think again. Sarah Shell and her
like my new baby. I call them all my babies.”
the equation and describes, “feeling numb
amazing handbag collection 442 McAdam
All things considered, any woman would
and uninterested in all aspects of life” during
definitely proved that accessories can
be lucky to have one of these babies on
her studies. “My decisions were solely based
hold their own on the runway. Her Spring/
their shoulder. Shell’s attention to detail
on probability and what people expected of
Summer 2010 collection, uncovered at
and creativity make a 442 McAdam piece
me. Studying business was safe, and I would
Alberta Fashion Week last October, was
an investment worth getting your hands on.
have succeeded at it if I wasn’t so miserable
one of the most memorable shows of the
Understandably, Shell hopes that more
week. Imagine staged purse snatchings and
retailers attend this season’s AFW, with the
When things seemed overcast for too
wrestling matches with audience members
intention that 442 McAdam’s pieces can be
long, Kim took the leap, throwing all caution
for esteemed handbags, the theatrics
more widely obtainable in Alberta.
into the wind and followed her mother’s
S a r a h S h e l l - 4 4 2 McA d a m B Y S a n d r a C r o ss
rendered 442 McAdam more than just a runway show, but entertainment for all who
Accordingly, what can the cultivated audience
at
442
McAdam’s
runway
all the time.”
footsteps, enrolling in the Alberta College of Art and Design’s jewellery and metals
38
program. “I never took my mother’s craft seriously, I didn’t think it was something you could do for a living. Now I respect and appreciate her work, even though our tastes and sources of inspiration are different.” With her self-titled collection debuting soon, Kim feels optimistic and unfazed by the uncertainties of her launch. “I have learned to follow my instinct. I feel confident, so there is no need to second guess my capabilities as a designer.” Kim’s designs will surely attract an avid following. Incorporating a variety of materials, such as gold, silver, onyx, plastic, and fine jewels, Kim states she is always searching for inspiration. “I don’t sit down and start sketching - I go outside and walk
06.
C O
L
L
E C
T
I
O
N
community in Vancouver is wonderful; you have access to phenomenal materials, mentors, and there are more publicity opportunities.
Calgary is my home, and
even though there are fewer resources and possibilities here, it is a positive environment for me to be in and it’s exciting to be a part of the city’s growing design movement,” and when asked if she would consider moving elsewhere to develop her craft, Tomney maturely articulates that she tries not to get ahead of herself. “I am only twenty, I have a lot of life ahead of me. For the time being, I am happy where I am. I want to think everything through before I jump in head first. It has been suggested that I try for Project Runway Canada, but I think they
N i c o l e RITA T o m n e y - N.R.T Fashions B Y M e l i ss a W u s a t y
are looking for actors more than design savvy
Rawness and sophistication, bleak and
For an industry that has been ridiculed
Tomney began sketching and instantly found
ethereality, beauty and ugliness. My point
ceaselessly for its loss of craftsmanship,
a pattern. “School definitely taught me how
of interest rests in the fine line between
Nicole Tomney, the creative force behind
to create cohesiveness in my collections. I
these groupings.” The result of leaving no
N.R.T. Fashions, is an isolated example
try not to premeditate my design process,
stone unturned include a bird skull ring, that
protesting such criticism.
Undoubtedly
but I have learned to identify prominent
extends over the fingers, a long black onyx
a part of Canada’s growing multitude
characteristics in my sketches, and if there
necklace, gold nail pieces, and gold-plated
of skilled designers, Tomney credits her
is one, I have my theme.” After establishing
glasses that conjure images of Lady Gaga.
extensive training in couture and role
her direction, Tomney began adding vintage
Now in her fourth year of studies, Kim
models like Nicolas Ghesquière for her
buttons, images of World War II and German
has expanded her design forte to include
impeccable design techniques; a telling sign
solders into the mix to solidify her collection,
clothing. “Designing a clothing line wasn’t
of where her career is heading. The journey
allowing her to add the finer details needed
an ambition. I am always looking for ways
to sharpen her design skills, however, has
to make each piece more compelling -
to extend my creativity, and clothing was
been challenging.
so compelling that Conglomerate could
around. I find inspiration in the mundane, sometimes the most boring things like pebbles,” but it is the ordinariness that
individuals. This is my career, and it requires deliberation rather than spontaneity.” For her Fall/Winter 2010 collection,
drives her to reflect upon “visual beauty.
a good outlet.” For Fall/Winter 2010 Kim
After determining to pursue fashion
not resist featuring her knock-out, floor-
describes her collection as “deconstruction
design, Tomney acquired several jobs to
sweeping jacket and Chantilly lace bodysuit
and reconstruction through sculptural and
accumulate the funds needed to personally
on the front cover. Spectators should expect
textural manipulations of fabric. The result
finance her education.
“I am extremely
a fine balance between couture and ready
is a distinct androgynous look that exudes
disciplined, and because I was funding
to wear from Tomney’s debut collection this
effortless chic.”
my own education,” states Tomney, “I
March at Alberta Fashion Week, a sign that
took the entire process seriously.
design dexterity is returning to the runways
Kim’s future plans include developing
I did
her brand and launching Links: A Collective
not take anything for granted.” Tomney’s
Knowledge, a compilation of work created
determination eventually paid off and she
by an intimate group of sixteen emerging
enrolled in Vancouver’s Helen Lefeaux
Canadian artists. “I credit the community
School of Fashion.
at ACAD for my effortless transition
well, Tomney learned halfway through her
between business school and art school.
program the institution was shutting down,
We all bonded instantly, and founded
leaving many students abandoned. “I chose
Links to support and push each other
Helen Lefeaux because it was couture
further.” Undoubtedly Kim’s designs will be
focused, and when the school closed it was
recognized for their innovation throughout
devastating and stressful,” says Tomney, but
the community and Canada, setting the
her perseverance and sharp-wit earned her
stage for a successful career.
a spot at Blanche MacDonald.
When all seemed
After graduating in 2009, Tomney decided to return to Calgary and reveal her first collection on home soil. “The design
after a long hiatus.
S
07.
After losing her brother to violence in
why he equips himself each season with
2005, Rahal-Kharey began sketching, sewing,
as much information as possible to help
and channeling her pain into the design
his collection succeed. Newbie designers
process. “Developing my clothing line was
be warned: Matlo sets the bar high; with
a catharsis. I realized that life is way too
an atelier, a subsequent line entitled
short to waste time by doubting and being
Babe, and a bridal line under his belt, he
afraid,” states Rahal-Kharey. The House of
occupies a rare echelon in Canada’s design
Nonie was born three years after the tragedy,
community - a title earned from patience
and quickly became known for its timelessly
and extreme diligence.
elegance and wearability.
Nina Rahal-Karey House of Nonie B Y M e l i ss a C h o w
A warning to the bashful: the House of Nonie
Matlo and his Vancouver-based team start
For those new to the House of Nonie,
the design process with meetings. “Meetings
Rahal-Kharey is known for her trademark
with the CEO, the design team, and with
dresses.
public relations.
In past seasons, the House of
Meeting with stores,
Nonie has provided women with expertly
buyers, my stylist, editors and fabric agents!
constructed frock that incorporate unique
I need constant feedback to design anything
touches such as braided rope detailing,
directional or new. You are only as good as
bagpipe sleeves, and an assortment of ruffles
your last collection. This is a business at the
to streamline each design; this season the
end of the day, so I need to have a constant
statement dress is a strapless number with
input of information.”
silver wool ruffles beginning on the bodice
Just when you thought all the hard stuff
and running along one shoulder, pouring over
was set aside, Matlo begins designing. “I’m a
the back.
perpetual student of life; I’m always learning
is not for the timid this upcoming season.
Rahal-Kharey’s expanding ability to
and evolving as a person and as a designer.
For Fall/Winter 2010, creative director and
balance sophistication with the avant-
My eyes and mind need constant stimulus
house founder Nina Rahal-Kharey, found
garde introduces a lightheartedness to each
and information. Naturally, design is involved
inspiration in 1980s power dressing and
collection; for F/W 2010, Rahal-Kharey uses
in this process, which is established once
Gilbert Adrian’s military-inspired shoulder
a flirty tutu to accent her base designs. With
we have finished sourcing fabric. Then I sit
pad. Need a visual? Think of Joan Crawford’s
bursts of tulle and taffeta, the House of Nonie
down with my team and sketch while having
silk dinner dress in Humoresque sharing an
is guaranteed to turn heads this March at
a million conversations about what is going
intimate moment with the cast of Dynasty.
Alberta Fashion Week.
to be current and modern for women next
The predominately black collection, complimented by gold and silver details to add a splash of glitz, exudes confidence. The simple yet powerful tailoring found in RahalKharey’s garments are accessible to all body types, contributing to her label’s success. Only in its fourth season, the House of Nonie has attracted a fair bit of attention; her previous collections have attracted a loyal client base and her seamless execution and usage of draping techniques inspired by traditional sari-making, has landed her designs in Fashion, Flare, and The Calgary Herald. Driven by her desire to bring fashion to Canada, Rahal-Kharey admits the endeavor was riddled with uncertainty from the beginning.
While studying engineering
at the University of Calgary, Rahal-Kharey confessed that her daydreams were the closest she would get to fashion design.
08. J a s o n M at l o B Y M e l i ss a W u s a t y
season. Then we bust our asses.” For Fall/Winter 2010, Matlo was inspired by “Little” Edith Bouvier Beale and the Grey Gardens documentary.
“I love the
way Edith would wrap sweaters and fabric around her body in an offbeat manner!” Drawing cues from the American socialite, Matlo began thinking about asymmetry and layering, dancer’s tights with shorts, and finished with a top and jacket. “Edith and her mother would layer pieces on top of each other in the most unorthodox and bizarre methods possible, yet I find beauty in its unconventionality. These were socialite women who slowly became completely disconnected from society and lived in total isolation and squalor; I’m fascinated by the story and the relationship between these two eccentric women.” When asked how he channels inspiration into his collections, Matlo praises his life-
“The arts always take a back seat to
long interest in visual communication and his
‘practical career choices’ in Calgary. You would never think about starting a clothing
To say that fashion design is a competitive
mother. “I think I’ve always been a designer.
line here, and you would especially be
industry is an outrageous trivialization.
Designing rooms, place settings, parties,
discouraged from doing so.
Designer Jason Matlo, however, does not
gardens, my recycling. I see everything in
shy away from the guts and gore, which is
visual propositions. I began to sketch and
Everything
about my dream was intimidating.”
40
draw from a very young age. I also have vivid
to draft and contract properly after hundreds
memories as a very young child sitting on
and hundreds of sleepless nights learning
my mother’s armoire, observing her dressing
and honing my craft”
ritual, transforming via hair, make up, heels
How hard is it to gain international attention
and couture. This has impacted my aesthetic.
in Canada? Canada is simply not known for
She could mix budget pieces in with her
its design industry, so it is difficult to gain
high-end designer items with incredible flair
international acclaim. You have to work ten
and panache. This trained my eye at a very
times harder to get any attention because
young age. I began my journey as a visual
you are competing against the likes of
artist in university but was slowly drawn into
Proenza Schouler, Gareth Pugh, and Lanvin.
the fashion vortex. In 1997, I attended the
These designers have more resources, more
Helen Lefeaux School of Fashion Design in
backing, better technicians, better models. I
Vancouver. This began my journey into what
can go on and on. You have to be willing to
has become the Jason Matlo brand.”
work your ass off and sacrifice everything to
To learn about Matlo, his seasoned career,
get noticed. It is hard to grow a global brand
impressive archives, resounding work ethic,
out of Canada.
and his thoughts on Canadian fashion,
Do you see Canada’s fashion industry
Conglomerate sat down with the designer to
becoming stronger and more beneficial
pick his brain. Cue bitch-slapping fantasies
for designers? This one is a double edged
and musings about pesky, lazy designers.
sword. On one hand the industry is gradually improving.
We need more government
With an industry losing skilled fashion
funding for fashion and not just in Toronto
craftspeople, what do you think fashion
and Montreal, which is where all the funding
education programs should include in their
goes. It would also help if Canadian retailers
curriculum to best prepare new designers?
would actually buy more Canadian brands
I want to bitch slap neophyte designers who
or at least consider looking at them. I get it!
say things like, “I’m not interested in all that
The perception is that Canadian brands are
pattern making and sewing!” Excuse me.
not polished, however, I would challenge any
You are not a designer then - you’re a stylist!
retailer in the country to show me a garment
This in my opinion is equivalent to someone
finished to the level of fit and finish of our
wanting to be an open heart surgeon but
brand at the same price point. I’ve done the
never attended medical school.
leg work. It is extremely hard to establish a
There are fewer skilled technicians in the industry today, but not because of the education system.
Young people today
have become accustomed to having a lot without earning it. As a result, the quality and finishing is deteriorating. I had the fortunate experience of learning under the tutelage of Helen Lefeaux; she is one of the few people left in North America who truly understands couture. I care about draping, drafting and construction. Most young designers today don’t give a rat’s ass about sewing; they skip and sleep through pattern drafting and construction courses because these courses are hard work, sweaty and unglamorous. They plan to contract out all the drafting and construction when they graduate. Unfortunately, when the garments come back and they are not up to standard, these new designers can’t tell the difference. They have not trained their eye to see or feel the difference. I actually care about how a set-in sleeve looks in a jacket and that the bias is not all stretched on a dress. I’ve learned how
brand in Canada, plain and simple. You have to be very clever to survive!
C O
L
L
E C
T
I
O
N
S
j a c k e t + l a c e j u m p s u i t N i c o l e R i t a T o m n e y F a s h i o n s S h o e s S p r i n g R I N G ( B ACK CO V E R ) A N J I . K
PHOTOGRAPHER MICHAEL MORRISON MODEL ANIA BONIECKA S T Y L I S T M E L I S S A W U S AT Y H A I R & M A K E U P san d ra cross
PARALLEL 42
J u m p s u i t B e t s e y J o h n s o n C a l g a r y S h o e s f r o m G r av i t y P o p e C o c l i c o N e c k l a c e a n d Wat c h e s Stylist’s own
Dr e s s f r o m M e a l a n Ar y n K S h o e s Z a r a G l a s s e s Anj i . K T i g h t s F o r e v e r 2 1
T- S h i r t f r o m Un d e r T h e B r i d g e R D V e s t f r o m M e a l a n p l a s t i c i s l a nd L e gg i ng s f r o m M e a l a n u s e d a nd u n u s e d S h o e s Z a r a N e c k l a c e s F o r e v e r 2 1 a nd S p l i t P e a V i n ta g e
S k i r t f r o m M e a l a n K a y P a rk B o d y s u i t A m e r i c a n A p p a r e l S h o e s Z a r a N e c k l a c e Anj i . K br a c e l e t f o r e v e r 2 1
B l a z e r f r o m M e a l a n k a y p a rk S o c k s A m e r i c a n A p p a r e l S h o e s S p r i n g E a rr i ng s Anj i . K
S k i r t f r o m F i r o z T a i l o r e d W a x T a n k f r o m f i r o z J a y G o dfr e y J a c k e t f r o m f i r o z A l i c e a nd O l i v a S h o e s z a r a B a ng l e s S t y l i s t ’ s o w n
B l a z e r f r o m M e a l a n K a y P a rk Dr e s s A m e r i c a n A p p a r e l s h o e s z a r a e a rr i ng s f o r e v e r 2 1
d r e s s f r o m m e a l a n u s e d a nd u n u s e d s h o e s s p r i n g N e c k l a c e L e C h a t e a u b a ng l e s s t y l i s t ’ s o w n
Dr e s s f r o m f i r o z N i c o l e M i l l e r J a c k e t Z a r a b a ng l e s s t y l i s t ’ s o w n
DE S H I R T F R O M L E O C H E A P M O N D AY J E A N S F R O M L E O N U D I E H AT F R O M L E O B R I X T O N S H O E S F R O M K I X S C O N V E R S E X J O N H N VA R VAT O S S O C K S C A LV I N K L E I N
NIMDAZE P H O T O G R A P H E R FA R Z I N G H AY O U R M O D E L M AT T F O R S Y T H E STYLIST
KARLEEN SAMSON
HAIR & MAKE UP
SANDRA CROSS
58
S H I R T F R O M L E O C H E A P M O N D A Y C A R D I G A N F R O M E S P Y C O V E T J E A N S F R O M L E O N A K E D & F A M O U S S H O E S F R O M the gallery pf flyers denim jacket from kixs N U D I E T I E T R I S T A N
S H I R T F R O M L E O J . L I N D E N B E R G S H O R T S F R O M L E O J . L I N D E N B E R G B O W T I E F R O M T H E G A L L E R Y D E TA I L S B Y L E O C A S U G A R O P E B E Lt S T Y L I S T O W N
S H I R T F R O M L E O J . L I N D E N B E R G S C A R F H & M V E S T F R O M E S P Y S T A T I O N 8 J E A N S F R O M L E O A C N E jacket S O N G K L A B O O T S F R O M K I X S C R E A T I V E R E C R E A T I O N
S H I R T S O N G K L A PA N T S F R O M L E O T I G E R O F S W E E D E N H AT F R O M L E O B R I X T O N
B E L T F R O M L E O J . L I N D E N B E R G S H O E S from L E O S C M O O V E
S H I R T F R O M leo J U N K D E L U X E S W E A T E R F R O M T H E G A L L E R Y W E M O T O J A C K E T F R O M E S P Y C O V E T
J E A N S F R O M S O N G K L A A P C S H O E S from K I X S C R E A T I V E R E C R E A T I O N G L A S S E S S T Y L I S T O W N
B Y A m y Ly n n S t r i l c h u k
P H O T O G R A P H E R R O B YN J A MI E S O N S T Y L I S T M E L I S S A W U S A TY
LADIES AND GENTLEMEN: W H AT E V E R H A P P E N E D T o D R E S S I N g LIKE LADIES AND GENTLEMEN? It’s summer 2008, and I have a wedding to
have confessed their inexplicable attraction
attend. A distant high school friend was mar-
to the plastic, blockish footwear, as she did
rying his dearly beloved in an urban, evening
on a CityLine appearance years ago.
ceremony with a cocktail reception to follow.
To be fair, it isn’t our attraction to these
Clearly the occasion called for something a
items that is the problem. Wearing flexible
little more special than your average summer
and comfortable yoga attire on the mat, on
sundress, so I slipped on a black, floor-length,
the run, or on the couch is absolutely appro-
jersey-knit, halter-dress and a pair of black,
priate. Wearing rubber, Velcro-strap sandals
patent peep-toes. I swept my short hair into
to the beach, a BBQ or a backyard party is
a chic bob and opted for minimalist jewelry. I
fitting for these occasions. Strapping into
thought I played my haute hand expertly until
sloppy sandals and slipping into dingy denim
I arrived at the church to see the congregation
for a wedding? Shoot me. Shoot me now.
outfitted in denim and sport sandals. I was
This is not about money either. We all
immediately horrified by their inappropriate
know that one pair of premium denim jeans
choices, but quickly realized I was the only
can cost more than a day dress, a pair of
one who dressed up for the occasion. I began
flats and a single strand of statement-jewelry
to question what I was wearing. Was this not
combined. It’s not about what you spend,
the perfect occasion for formal wear? Was this
it’s about the pieces you buy and the way you put them together.
SADLY, CASUAL WEAR HAS BECOME A POPULAR CHOICE AT SPECIAL EVENTS AND IT BOTHERS ME IMMENSELY
I
make an extremely modest income working in the business I do, yet I relish the opportunity to put together a polished outfit. Granted, it is a challenge. That said, when accomplished, I truly take
not our friend’s most meaningful day? Even
pride in building an outfit on a dime. I know
if I believed my attire fit the event, it didn’t
there are others like me – those who like to
matter: I was outnumbered. Casual wear set
dress up and make a statement through style.
the tone for the event, making me feel like
Why is it, however, that we are in the minor-
Liberace at a county fair.
ity? Why do so many North Americans fail to
Sadly, casual wear has become a popu-
see beyond comfortable and familiar items?
The approach is relentless, but the rules are
lar choice at special events and it bothers
It’s a question I obsess over quite fre-
not complicated. So why do grown women
me immensely. Why are we belittling the
quently and regularly seek answers for at
crumble under the wrath of these stylists?
most significant moments of our lives by
the Church of Clinton and Stacy. I am a
It is easy - we have strayed so far from the
dressing down? Better yet, when did this
devout member of What Not to Wear, the
path of dressing appropriately that finding
become acceptable?
TLC program that preaches to the masses
our way back is an exhausting trek.
The relentless proliferation of casual wear
every Friday night. The Gospel according
What also interests me is the popular-
has sent us spiraling down the fashion rabbit
to Clinton and Stacy provides the command-
ity of this program. Witnessing emotional
hole for years and I believe we have finally
ments on which virtuous outfits are based:
meltdowns and the slaughter of deliciously
hit rock bottom. Yoga-inspired apparel has
honour thy tailor, keep thy leg long and lean,
hideous ensembles is entertaining, but the
become a daily fix and many of us have com-
dress appropriate for thine occasion, keep
appeal of What Not to Wear lies in the ward-
mitted the most grotesque shoe-sin (you
thy neckline open and thy waist defined,
robe witch hunt: tracking down the world’s
know the cursed word of which I can’t speak
and accessorize to make thine outfit (and
foremost outfit offenders and putting them
- please don’t make me say it). Even grand
for gentiles new to the cloth, there are also
on trial. While it feels like the status quo is
dames of Canadian styling, like Lynn Spence,
lessons on pattern, sheen and detailing).
to dress down, WAY down, there appears
to be a subconscious understanding that
Not to Wear who is saving the world one
with being prissy, but as designer Yves Saint
this is not actually acceptable, and we are
cinched waist at a time. Garment gurus are
Laurent advises, “We must never confuse
tuning in to watch the tug of war between
popping onto every TV network, ready to
elegance with snobbery.” Watching stylists
these two sensibilities.
enlighten their next style student. From
convert the comfort-obsessed into classy,
You know the structure of the episodes:
Canadians like Peter Papapetrou (Renovate
stylish and confident individuals, it is hard
friends and family members nominate their
my Wardrobe) to Americans like the Big
to ignore the slowly shifting attitude toward
loved one to undergo ridicule, rules, rigor-
Gunn himself (Tim Gunnʼs Guide to Style),
dressing up. The more we rebel against cos-
ous shopping and, if she survives, comes
we are, slowly but surely, recalling our
tuming ourselves like castaways, the more we
out better-dressed and more fashion
sense of style and returning to more refined
set the precedent for playing the leads in our
savvy. These women, once adamant that
ways of dressing.
own lives. Who knows – maybe the flock will
they needed baggy jeans and square-peg
Each style-oriented program addresses
shoes, finish the process feeling confident,
wardrobe dilemmas uniquely, but the grow-
proud and excited to present themselves
ing army of TV style gurus shares one man-
to the world.
tra: never be afraid or ashamed to look your
It’s not just the dynamic-duo of What
follow suit. [ CLOSE ]
best. Too often we equate looking polished
68
At Soutcentre Mall Calgary 100 Anderson Road SE
WILFORD BARRINGTON I L L U S T R AT O R Wilford Barrington has been passionately observing and recording the faces and personalities of his time. During this time he has drawn everyone from Hells Angels enforcers, to supermodels, to burnt out schizophrenic acid-worn hippies. Wilford is taking the here and now of his subjects to another level for his own generation. Through this action he continues the silent intimate history of observational portraiture.
70 C R A F T
c a s t
71
How did your modeling career begin?
Working as an international model would
I was scouted by a Mode Model scout in
mean being away from home, is that a concern?
Chinook mall. It was funny because I never
I f I h a ve t h e o p p o r t u n i t y t o t ra ve l
thought of myself as a model, I didn’t think
internationally, my family and friends will
it was a realistic aspiration for me, but I
support me because they know it’s important
thought it would be really cool. When I
for me. It would suck being away all the time,
was scouted it gave me the confidence to
not seeing my friends and missing birthdays,
pursue modeling.
but I think it is a sacrifice I would need to take to develop my career.
Did your friends and family support your decision to model?
If you weren’t modeling, what would you
Yes, they have always supported me. My
be doing?
friends think it’s really cool of course.
I would be a student.
I want to go to
university to study education and become Now that you’re a model, what is the next step
a social studies teacher, my favorite subject.
you would like to take in 2010?
Rena Donaldson Mode Models
I would love to travel internationally as a
What Canadian model do you respect and
model. I would really like to go to the big
look-up to?
fashion weeks around the world and walk
Coco Rocha and Heather Marks, they have
the runways, especially in New York. It is
personality and they let it show.
important I graduate from high school first before I travel anymore.
What does a model like yourself do in her free time?
What has been your favorite model moment
I play basketball and dance modern and
so far?
lyrical. I find doing both makes me aware of
Traveling to Singapore and working there
my body. It helps me model because I am
in 2009. I had the opportunity to walk in
able to express and position myself better in
Vivienne Westwood’s show.
front of a camera.
Working internationally could give you the chance to work for some major designers, what other designers would you love to walk for? Jean Paul Gaultier. He is extremely creative. I love him so much; I am doing a school project on him right now (laughs).
How did your modeling career begin?
Modeling and clothes go hand-in-hand, has
My mother sent in some pictures of me and
this changed your personal style?
I was asked to come to an open model call
I am more conscious of what I wear now. I
at Mode Models. Michael, one of the Mode
stopped buying Walmart t-shirts (laughs),
scouts, really liked me and I was signed to
I use those for work only. I like nice jeans
the agency.
and cool kicks. Shoes are my staple item, I have tonnes. Modeling gives me the chance
Did you reluctantly go along with your
to try on new styles that I would otherwise
mother’s wishes? was modeling something
ignore.
you saw in your future?
menʼs Uggs, after the shoot I ordered a
(Laughs) Never. This was never something
pair online. Modeling has definitely helped
I saw myself doing, but I was open to the
my personal style.
For one shoot I wore a pair of
possibility. If it wasn’t for my mom, I probably wouldn’t have this opportunity.
Do have a favorite designer? Alexander McQueen has some amazing
Obviously your mother saw something you
m e n swe a r.
didn’t! Your family supports you then?
effortlessness of his clothes.
Calvin
Klein,
I
l i ke
the
Oh yeah, they’re a huge support. Calvin Klein is known for their underwear
M at t F o r s y t h e Mode Models
Do your friends give you a hard time?
campaigns, would you consider modeling
No, my friends are indifferent. When I
underwear?
worked for a construction company in
Definitely. Staying in shape is probably the
Kamloops I was told I was too pretty to be
hardest thing about modeling. It’s hard to
a construction worker, they gave me a hard
avoid certain foods, but it’s easier to resist
time about that (laughs), but I still never
temptation when you know your career
considered modeling a serious option, even
depends upon being healthy and fit. Working
when people hinted that I should.
in construction helps me stay fit.
Now that you’re modeling, what are you
Would you say modeling has given you more
hoping to accomplish?
confidence?
I want to be placed at different agencies
Without doubt.
around the world and model internationally. I haven’t been anywhere outside North America, so I would like to travel overseas. I like modeling. You meet people you wouldn’t have the chance to meet normally. I can’t complain about getting the chance to wear expensive clothes either. It’s fun.
c a s t
73
How did your modeling career begin?
Will fashion always be an important part of
I entered the Mode Models Stampede model
your life, modeling or not?
search in 2000. I signed a contract shortly
I hope to be modeling as long as I can, but
after being selected as one of the favorite
when I’m not, my goal is to find a place in the
faces and have been with them ever since.
industry so that I can still have a substantial part in it. I love fashion, as a woman I can’t
What were your ambitions when your
imagine it any other way; it’s fun, expressive,
modeling career was set in motion?
brave and allows people to be whoever they
I wanted to travel the world. I started a year
want to be. My favorite place in my house
after my family moved to Canada, so it also
is my closet.
gave me the opportunity to adjust to my new life and meet new people. It was nice
What you do when you are not modeling?
to meet other models because we all shared
Finishing my Bachelor of Commerce in
something in common.
December and graduating in June. Meanwhile, I work for my brother’s accounting firm. I try to
Where have you modeled?
balance work with my drawing classes at ACAD.
I have travelled to Tokyo, New York, Paris, and LA. I have also seen a good part of Canada
Would you say modeling has benefited you in
thanks to modeling.
everyday life? The friendships I acquired while modeling
ania boniecka mode models
Since you have travelled extensively,
are a hundred times stronger than those I
what are your reflections upon your
made elsewhere. Modeling provides me with
international career?
a perfect outlet for my creativity. Working
Living in another country as a model gave me
with people who inspire me is something I
the opportunity to experience each location
do not take for granted. It makes me happy.
from an entirely different perspective. I was able to explore each country at liberty, so
The friends you made in the industry,
when I return or reflect upon those places, I
did they help you cope with the more
can say I experienced them first hand.
challenging aspects of the industry? Absolutely. You have to deal with a lot of
Did you acquire some career highlights
rejection and criticism. The criticism is never
during your travels?
personal, but it is hard to understand when
Yes! Working with Zac Posen was a highlight.
you are young and insecure. It is even more
I was sent to his studio thinking it was a
grueling to deal with when your family or
casting and they started shooting right away!
friends are not there to support you. There
It was supposed to be a feature in American
are so many factors associated with a model’s
Vogue but it never made it to press. He
success, and it is hard to take control when your
brought me a garment bag full of his clothes
career is dependent on exterior perceptions.
to keep! Do you have advice for newer models? Do you have a favorite designer?
Take some time after high school and work
I can’t afford to wear designer clothes right
internationally as much as you can. Like
now so I shop at ZARA, which I love and can
everything else, you have to give it your
never get enough of. I drool over Alexander
all. It’s a job, and it requires hard work.
Wang - he makes clothes I would love to
Juggling school and modeling is not easy.
wear - but designers like John Galliano and
People don’t generally know what they want
the late Alexander McQueen are still the
to do after high school, so why not travel,
most inspiring.
gain some experience and maturity while trying to figure life out? This way you avoid regretting something you didn’t do or try.
How did your modeling career begin?
What is your dream job?
I heard an advertisement on the radio for this
I would like to book a job with Chanel or Karl
talent search called Pro Scout in 2008. I am
Lagerfeld. I would love to walk for Victoria
very shy, so I didn’t think I would do well,
Secret, that would be pretty cool.
but I ended up being a finalist and had the chance to go to Banff for the weekend and
That would require a lot of confidence!
was selected by Mode Models. I was always
Definitely, but it would be the high of my
interested in the fashion industry, but never
career and would be a personal triumph!
thought I could be a model. Heather Marks has walked for Victoria’s There is a lot of bad publicity about model
Secret, is she a role model?
searches, was your family nervous about you
Yes. It is funny because I knew of her before
participating in Pro Scout?
I was interested in modeling. My family owns
My mother was extremely hesitant, but I think
a cabin near hers, I think that is when I began
once she learned more about the industry, Pro
to think about modeling.
Scout, and met the people at Mode Models
Caitlin Thomas Mode Models
she was less nervous about me being a part
If you didn’t do well at Pro Scout, would you
of it. I think a lot of people misunderstand the
still pursue modeling?
modeling industry because they are missing
I think I would. If modeling wasn’t something
the facts. People only hear the bad stuff and
I could make into a career, I would like to be
remember it over the good. Once you learn
a part of the fashion industry. I like to design
more about modeling, you quickly realize it
my own clothes, maybe it is something I will
is nothing like what people say. Now that I
do when I get older.
am working as a model she supports me. My friends and family have always supported me, even if they are nervous about it. Has modeling helped you become less shy? Yes. I was really self-conscious, which made me believe I wouldn’t stick out at Pro Scout. Modeling has definitely made me more confident in all areas of life. This is only your fifth photo shoot, what do you like about modeling so far? Every job is different, it keeps things interesting because I never know what I will have to do. You have one more high school year left, what are your hopes for 2010? I would like to be placed with an international agency, giving me the opportunity to travel abroad.
I would love to travel and work
internationally, it’s hard work, but I would be up to the challenge. Where would you like to work internationally? Anywhere in Europe!
C O V
E
R A G
E
75
After a year of planning, fine-tuning, and smothering nerves, the Conglomerate team slowly came together to give an intangible idea a body and soul. The hours were exhausting, months felt like years, cold medicine flowed readily, and the problems were never-ending, but the creative pulse and comradeship encompassing the process was exhilarating. To document our long journey, we captured some of our favorite behind the scenes moments on camera.
C A
L
L
O
U
T
77
I SEE MYSELF AS A LION, I DON’T SPEAK BEFORE I EAT, I JUST GO KILL THE THING, THAT’S WHY I’M NOT REALLY BOTHERED
REMOTE INFLUENCE Conglomerate’s leading editors narrate
McQueen elevated fashion. His collection
didn’t waste time impressing those he did
personal stories and thoughts reflecting
was so much more than clothes, it was a
not like or try to fit in. He didn’t play into
upon the late Alexander McQueen’s
narrated story that delicately unfolded in
notions of how those in fashion should act.
unprecedented influence.
poignant manner.
His whimsical runway
He allowed his clothes to be worn, dragged
show was an extension of his clothing,
across floors, drenched in water, danced
I was
and many years later, his runway theatrics
in, and sprayed with paint. To experience
perched on an ottoman in my parent’s living
would become his trademark. I wanted to
McQueen was to experience his raw creative
room, fixated on the television set. I was
submerge myself in the world he created. My
process and humanity. McQueen was like
paralyzed by the images that danced before
parents were most likely shocked to see their
most of us: ridden with doubts, infuriated by
me. Nomadic models weaved their way
studious daughter, who was more inclined
current affairs, sensitive to pressures around
through a snow-covered set, punctuated
to write her own stories rather than watch
him, vulnerable, and prone to highs and lows
by barren trees and snow drifts, wearing
prime time, plastered to the television set.
that trickled into his collections.
outfits that meticulously united structure
My intuitive mother handed me a notebook
McQueen’s talent cannot be summarized
and slackened designs to create an
and pen, foreseeing something I maybe
by words because they are too mundane to
amalgamation of wearable fantasy. I failed
subconsciously acknowledged, and told me
capture his ethereal spirit. Words cannot
to fully comprehend what I was viewing,
to write down my thoughts; this moment,
do him justice, and despite our urge to
but I knew enough to tag the moment with
although ordinary, was the beginning of my
contain McQueen’s colossal talent, he
significance.
lifelong dedication to fashion.
continued on undaunted, reminding the
I remember the day vividly.
The day Alexander McQueen’s Fall/Winter
Looking back on McQueen’s Fall/Winter
fashion community that creativity can neither
1999 collection aired on Fashion File, my
1999 collection, I recognize the overwhelming
be detained nor manufactured - it has to
perception of the fashion industry changed
talent. I see the low-slung pants, the one-
come from the heart. I salute the nameless
profoundly. Fashion was something I was
piece rompers, masculine tailoring, and the
professors and instructors at Central Saint
interested in, but it was never more than a
severe silhouette that would manifest itself
Martins, who recognized his potential, and
simple musing. I never fathomed a future
as skinny trousers and leather leggings years
gave him the chance to exceed beyond his
in fashion. I was convinced, being situated
later. I also see a young man with a rare
own expectations. I salute his supporters
in Canada, I would always experience the
magnetism; I admired his influence over
who ‘just got it.’ Let the new guard live on.
industry secondhand, but McQueen’s show
those twice his age. He never compromised
changed everything.
his vision. He stayed true to himself. He
- Melissa Wusaty
I L L U S T R AT O R R O X A N N E WA N G
The void Alexander McQueen has left
I archived my first vivid memory of
Alexander McQueen relentlessly blew
is devastating. As the fashion community
Alexander McQueen when I was seventeen.
open creative possibilities for pattern,
enters another season, his absence will be
I was watching Fashion File, halfheartedly
proportion and silhouette – always tackling a
particularly accentuated, leaving many of us
trying to study, when McQueen’s Spring
season with a new point of view. We thrived
to wonder if his talent will ever be matched.
2003 collection aired. When Michelle Alves,
off his bold and incredibly strong collections;
It cannot be denied that McQueen’s creations
with her hair flamboyantly teased at the
relying on him like a wild, confident friend
were theatrical pieces of art, expertly tailored,
ends, glided down the runway in a rainbow-
who attacked the world and took us by
and exquisitely fashioned. His discerning
coloured floor-sweeping gown with billowing
the hand for every glorious moment. For
eye for detail transcended effortlessly from
tulle ruffles, I knew instantly that McQueen
these reasons, I always thought McQueen
his clothing, to the location and staging
was far ahead of his time, a spectacular
was unshakable and it breaks my heart to
of his runway shows, to even the smallest
scene-stealer, and an artist I will never
know this isn’t true. The loss of McQueen is
but significant details found in hair and
forget. McQueen, we bid you farewell, but
an incredibly tragic reminder that we are all
makeup. McQueen thought of everything.
your efforts will forever be commemorated.
fragile humans, regardless of the persona we put out to the world.
His shows gave him the chance to adamantly do what he pleased, and in the process he created touching and memorable fashion extravaganzas. As a makeup artist, I often turned to McQueen’s shows for inspiration, and I know I am not alone in this respect. He was a brilliant young man, a fashion genius, a legend in his time - the fashion world has undoubtedly suffered a tremendous loss. - Sandra Cross
- Melissa Chow - Amy Lynn Strilchuk
A LBERTA COLLEGE OF ART + D ESI GN
PORTFOLIO SHOW ADVERTISING CHARACTER DESIGN GRAPHIC DESIGN I L L U S T R AT I O N PHOTOGRAPHY
Nexen Tower Garden Court, 6 to 9 pm 801 - 7 Ave SW, Calgary Alberta
22 04 10