Hungarian Bistro: Labor of Love

122CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2020

Hungarian

Bistro

Labor of Love

BY KRISTIN L. WOLFE

“Isten hozott” - or, welcome.

It’s exactly what you feel when you walk into the new Hungarian (Magyar) Bistro in the basement of the Calvin Church in Fairfield. The church has been a gathering place for the Hungarian Community since the 1950s, and it’s now helping to keep the culture alive through great food. What could be better than a warm plate around a humble table, hearty dishes, and that feeling of being in grandma’s kitchen? That’s what it felt like after Judit Olah, who runs the bistro, greeted my son and I with a radiant smile and menu, and then walked us to our place at one of the many round, red and white checkered tables lining the room.

CT FOODANDFARM.COM 123

Originally from Hungary, Chef Roland Olah spent years at the renowned Cafe Értés in Budapest, learned the classic cuisine of France and Belgium during his formal training, and cooked under industry giant Daniel Bolud in New York. The local community has fallen in love with him and his culinary touch via Martel, and - most recently - Bruxelles Brasserie in South Norwalk.

A few months ago, a parishioner reached out to Roland and Judit about reviving the basement bistro. After a few short months (and giving up his one day off from cooking to...shop and cook some more) the number of diners is growing each week. They’re walking out satisfied, and importantly, feeling reconnected to their culture. Looking around the room, you see older folks, many of whom Olah says have been in Connecticut since the 1950s and 60s, and even little ones running circles around grandma or grandpa, who smile at them or yell a quick “sit down and eat” in Hungarian.

In addition to a map and flag in the back of the wide room, you’ll find signatures of Hungarian culture proudly featured along the walls: rows upon rows of embroidery and pottery; stacks of porcelain dolls; piles of books on the Hungarian language or literature; and even hanging clusters of dried peppers, the capsicum annum used for paprika, Hungary’s national spice. (See the paprika lesson on page ???).

When my son and I sat down, Judit placed a breadbasket before us as I peered at the clay salt and pepper shakers; there’s a different set at each table, all painted in unique Hungarian designs. “You know, Americans always look for the butter. We don’t serve butter with bread at the Hungarian table. You eat too much, then you get too full before you have the rest of the meal.” (Wow, did that make sense). “We have the bread with the meal.” And that was best understood

124CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2020

helping to k ep the culture alive

through great f od.”

CT FOODANDFARM.COM 125

[pull out?]

[pull out?] Did you know there are eight grades of Hungarian Paprika, t country’s national spice? -Kulӧnleges: special quality, mild and the most vibrant red [ supposed to be an unlaut here, for some reason, I can’t find i symbol list] -Csípősmentes Csemege: delicate and mild -Csemege: more pungent than the one above -Csípős Csemege: even more pungent -Édesnemes: noble and sweet, slightly pungent, bright red -Félédes: semi-sweet, medium pungency -Rózsa: mild and pale red -Erős: hottest, and light brown to orange

Here in the U.S., we mostly see the édesnemes variation.

126CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2020

he

there ist on this

Did you know there are eight grades of Hungarian Paprika, the country’s national spice?

Különleges: special quality, mild and the most vibrant red

Csípősmentes Csemege: delicate and mild

Csemege: more pungent than the one above

Csípős Csemege: even more pungent

Édesnemes: noble and sweet, slightly pungent, bright red

Félédes: semi-sweet, medium pungency Rózsa: mild and pale red Erős: hottest, and light brown to orange

CT FOODANDFARM.COM 127

Originally from Hungary, Chef Roland Olah spent yers at the renowned Cafe Értés in Budapest, lerned the classic cuisine of France and Belgium during his formal training, and coked under industry giant Daniel Bolud in New York.”

when we dove into the impossibly delicious and hearty vegetable soup (Magyaros Zöldségleves). It was warm and bright, bountiful with a variety of beans and a tomato-based broth. After a shake of the paprika, it was truly like medicine.

Although Chef Olah is classically trained and can wow us with technique and masterful plates, that is not what it’s about at the bistro. “It’s not about being fancy. It is about bringing back memories and a smile for our heritage,” he explains. Despite his high level of skill and the fare he provides at places like Martel or Bruxelles, it’s down to the comforts of home in the Friday bistro at Calvin Church. He thinks about his mom: “I grew up next to her skirt as a boy in her kitchen. My passion comes from her.” Even though she worked long days in a factory, Olah says his mom shopped every day for fresh ingredients and cooked from scratch.

With a chardonnay and a Stella Artois, the latter going down best with our plates, my son and I marveled at the delicious simplicity: how just a few ingredients could be so satisfying and yield so much flavor. With his other demanding endeavors, Olah says they post the new menu on Tuesdays, shop on Wednesdays, and prep and cook on Thursdays and Fridays. While there, five tables were full, and a few individuals came in to pick up orders.

Did You Know...

August 20 is the official state holiday of Hungary. It is known as Foundation Day, Constitution Day and St. Stephen’s Day. It’s “the day of the new bread;” it’s a tradition to cut bread on this day to celebrate the arrival of the harvest.

For the main course during our visit, diners chose from a Pepper Beef Stew (Borsos Tokány), Pork Tenderloin with Fried Potatoes (Brassói Aprópecsenye), and Egg Pasta with Farmer Cheese, Bacon, and Sour Cream (Túrós Tészta,

128CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM 129

It is about bringing back memor

130CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2020

ies and asmile for our

heritage,”

CT FOODANDFARM.COM 131

...the pride this community works so hard to uphold, and the beuty of a humble, herty plate.”

Pirított Bacon). Then for dessert, a Poppyseed,Sour Cherry Strudel (Mákos-Meggyes Rétes).

Diners leave the church basement bistro witha warm, satisfied belly. Hungarians in thecommunity have a chance to reconnect withthe tables of their youth, making their pastever-present. But even those far removed fromHungarian culture will understand the pridethis community works so hard to uphold, andthe beauty of a humble, hearty plate.

"Köszönöm” - thank you.

The Hungarian Bistro/Magyar Bistro is open every Friday, from 12 -3:00 pm and 5:00 - 9:30 pm.

Hungarian Bistro/Magyar Bistro Calvin United Church 901 Kings Highway E., Fairfield 203.345.1114 203.419.6648, for orders

132CT FOOD & FARM / SPRING 2020

CT FOODANDFARM.COM 133