Salsicus or “Seasoned with Salt”

by Kristin L.Wolfe and Zach Pierce - Winter Caplanson photos

T here’s no way around it, folks: sausage will forever be subjected to the double entendre. So, think it; say it; laugh at it; then get it out of your system. There are recorded recipes since the 1300s, and there seems to be a version of it from every culture around the globe. Either way, whether it’s dried, cured, smoked, raw, pickled, or a process in between, there’s likely a link for your palate.

After an afternoon at Provisions on State, shadowing head butcher Zach Pierce, you might feel a bit intimidated, yet still inspired to try your hand (oh boy) at making sausage at home. Pierce made it look so easy, but practice, of course, makes perfect. Having high quality meat and equipment will surely improve your odds. Pierce actually compares the process with that of baking, where the balance of ingredients, time, temperature, and form are key elements to getting a great link.

From farms and kitchens all over Connecticut (like Saugatuck Craft Butchery, now Fleishers, where he met Chef Mingrone), to shops in Philadelphia, Pierce knows each detail of how the animals he has butchered are raised, to how to perfectly craft the meat for charcuterie. Saying he’s well-seasoned at his craft is an understatement. In his words, let’s let Pierce walk us through the basic steps. He’s sharing with CFF two of their popular selections: the Bratwurst, just in time for OktoberFest, and a new blend they created as a Valentine’s special which now has become a favorite: the Hot Date sausage, a perfect blend of spicy and sweet.

DID YOU KNOW:

The word “sausage” was first used in English in the mid-15th century, spelled “sawsyge”. This word came from Old North French saussiche (Modern French saucisse). The French word came from Vulgar Latin salsica (sausage), from salsicus (seasoned with salt).

“When making sausage, I like to season the meat before grinding…. it will save you a lot of work and avoid pockets where some spice might accumulate.

“Grind meat through a medium-coarse grinder plate. It’s important that the meat is really cold to avoid potential fat rendering.

“Once ground, mix thoroughly, like you’re kneading a bread dough. When it is first ground, it will be very loose. Mix until the sausage can stick to itself and comes together as one. I like to hold a piece out and if it sticks to my hand upside down (a la Dairy Queen), it’s ready to stuff.

“Fill your sausage stuffer with the mix, making sure there are no air bubbles; really squish it in as tightly as possible. Start cranking slowly as the sausage comes out, keeping pressure on the casings until they are filled. When linking, twist each link about 4-5 times until firm. Use a toothpick or sausage poker to let out any visible air bubbles.”

104CT FOOD & FARM / FALL 2021

Hot Date

(makes 10lbs)

10lbs boneless lamb shoulder58 grams kosher salt

10 grams cumin2 cups dried dates, chopped

1 12 oz can harissa

Bratwurst

10lbs boneless pork shoulder

58 grams kosher salt

15 grams black pepper

10 grams coriander

7 gram ginger

7 gram nutmeg

Here’s where those in the know source more of the best fresh sausages in Connecticut:

Provisions on State, New Haven

V. Czapiga & Son, Meriden and Martin Rosol’s Meats in New Britain are both renowned for their fresh kielbasa.

Kane’s Market, Simsbury – “Luis makes some of the best smoked and raw artisan sausages I have had in a long time. Flavorful, well-balanced, perfect texture, just the right amount of fat. His andouille is particularly wonderful and works with so many dishes and complimentary flavors.” Chef Ben Dubow

Longhini Sausage Company, New Haven. Their sweet Italian chicken sausage is a fan favorite.

La Molisana Sausage Production Company, Waterbury - specializes fresh homemade Italian sausage as well as dry, and they make their own coppa and sopressata.

LaRosa Marketplace, Hartford – “Most sausage makers also only produce hot or sweet. LaRosa makes a medium that is just right.” Jerome Phillip

Custom Meats Whole Animal Butchery, Fairfield – especially their honey sausage.

Noack’s, Meriden – German specialties like Knockwurst, Weisswurst, and Bratwurst.

New Morning Market, Woodbury - uses natural antibiotic-free, humanely raised heritage breed pork.

South Side Meat Market, BristolGrass and Bone, MysticD&D Market, Wethersfield

Sought after Connecticut farms’ custom sausages include Taylor Spring Farm’s maple breakfast sausages; and the links from Howling Flats Farm, Canaan; Copper Hill Farm, Somers; Hooting Owl Farm, East Haddam; and Walden Hill Farm.

...whether it’s dried, cured, smoked, raw, pickled, or a

process in between, there’s likely a link for your palate.