Candied Bacon, Whiskey Butter & Brazen BBQ

A Tale of Tantalizing Tastes: Sugar & Smoke Brazen BBQ

BY JENNIFER C. LAVOIE

TERESA JOHNSON PHOTOS

G ood barbecue seems to always have a backstory to it, like the smoke rings that build in a well-smoked brisket: the layers tell a story. You want to know how the rings got there. What makes that lovely pink layer? How hard was that to achieve? The passion and dedication that Sugar & Smoke Brazen BBQ puts into making delicious heaps of rich, smokeysmoky meats, sweet and savory sauces and sides creates the kind of food you want to savor – like a good story.

Darrell Minkler and Beth Wolter are the owners of Sugar & Smoke Brazen BBQ, a take-out barbecue restaurant located at 74B School Street in Putnam, CT. They bring their collective experience and stories to their own unique style of barbecue. Minkler and Wolter met eight years ago, working side-byside for a catering business. They would often joke about opening their own restaurant, but the joking eventually became serious, and in 2017 Sugar & Smoke Brazen BBQ was opened. The popularity of their barbecue is growing, and a new location is now open at Vineyard Valley Golf Club, at Braymen Hollow Road in Pomfret. The menu in Pomfret is nearly identical, with a few added handhelds for the golfers.

Wolter said that Minkler was adamant about smoking. Minkler does all the smoking while Wolter does

the baking and the sides, known as “supports” in BBQ lingo. They created a unique menu: fast, fresh, with more vegetables, more color, and more spice, but also offer some standards. Wolter explains, “Making everything in-house makes a huge difference. When the cornbread or the coconut cake comes out of the oven, or the ribs come off the smoker, customers can see it and know they’re getting something they can’t find anywhere else.” Wolter makes everything from scratch: barbecue sauces (Carolina and Kansas City), tropical black bean salad, maple jalapeño cornbread, jalapeño potato salad, Sriracha coleslaw, smoked pit beans, collard and mustard greens - and my personal favorite, smoked candied bacon.

Minkler tends to his smoking like a mother watches over her baby. Using his prized Lang competitionstyle stick smoker, he will stay up

all night to smoke a brisket that typically takes 12- to-16 hours. “We do it the old-fashioned way,” says Minkler, as he loads up the smoker with 20-inch sticks of hickory or red oak. For Minkler, the true emblem of top-quality and expertly smoked meat is the deep pink smoke ring. (There’s a definitive separation of people who feel that the smoke ring matters and those that don’t, but if the beautiful pink rings from Minkler’s brisket are what he prizes, then I’m definitely in Darrell’s camp on this one).

Minkler and Wolter built and refined the Sugar & Smoke menu based on what their customers wanted, and then married it with their experience and unique styles. For example, Wolter came up with a killer meatloaf recipe. Her meatloaf is not the typical indistinguishable mound of protein. With a combination of the trimmings from smoked racks of ribs and

scratch-made maple cornbread, you’ve got yourself one tasty, moist meatloaf. Wolter explains: “Nothing on our menu is an afterthought. People love the smoked meat, but they also appreciate the unique sides and housemade desserts. The care we put into our food shows.”

I agree. When I visited Sugar & Smoke, I giddily took home some brisket, but in my haste, I forgot to have them include their barbecue sauce. The brisket was amazing, even without the sauce. It was moist and flavorful with just the right amount of smoke.

What makes their food so good? I can’t help but go back to their stories. Wolter’s interest in cooking began with a love of Indian food. She first tried Indian food in New York City and was hooked. While living in Boston, two friends taught her how to cook both Indian and Ethiopian food, and opened her eyes to a whole new

realm of spices. Wolter continued to cook for family and friends, but didn’t start cooking professionally until working as the Dietary Coordinator at Summit School in Manchester. In her role, Wolter was involved with all aspects of planning, shopping, and cooking breakfast and lunch for 50-70 young women and staff, five days a week. Wolter improved upon the usual school food fare by adding more fresh produce, more ethnic food - and having the girls bring in their own home recipes.

Minkler’s culinary experience started early. He began prepping and using a slicer at the age of 10 when he worked for his father in his family’s restaurant in

Sacramento, California. Minkler remembers those summers spent working in the restaurant as the best he ever had. He explains that his father was an early innovator back in 1972, offering health shakes before they became all the rage - and sprout sandwiches. Even California Governor Jerry Brown frequented his father’s restaurant, apparently always ordering a fruit salad.

Wolter and Minkler have worked together for a long time. I asked them what their secret is, and Wolter said “it has to [work]. We don’t have a choice. Occasionally, there’s some yelling, but we get over it because we can’t do this alone.

“We’ve both had experience in seeing or participating in some businesses that were successful and others that were not. Mistakes and miscalculations will be made, but hopefully our combined knowledge will lessen the number. There’s a certain amount of luck involved, but it’s mostly about integrity and hard work...a lot of hard work.”

Minkler explains that Sugar & Smoke’s menu design sets them apart from other barbecue joints. They don’t follow whatever trend might be hot, but instead they design the menu to reflect their own unique style. The menu changes weekly; past specials include smoked Cubano (pulled pork, pit ham, Swiss cheese, dill pickle

chips and mustard), Asian chicken soft tacos, and weekly dessert specials. By the way, don’t forget the “cheap dates:” pork belly snacks in variety of flavors, including brown sugar and habanero; maple, orange & chipotle; and bourbon & black pepper, gumbo, and chili verde.

Minkler and Wolter also offer a standard menu that includes fan favorites such as ribs, brisket chili, maple jalapeño cornbread, mac and cheese, candied bacon, half-pound burgers with pork belly and cheddar, smoked pit beans, and coconut cake. During the holidays customers can order a honey-brined, smoked turkey - and Sugar & Smoke will soon be offering half chickens.

Sugar & Smoke’s food tells a story. Its narrative is powerful, encouraging us to revel in their smokey, spicy, unique barbecue flavor, much like getting lost in a really good story. Come and try Sugar & Smoke’s barbecue, bury your nose in the rich, smoked flavor of the brisket or ribs, take a couple bites of unique, spicy sides, and finish off this tantalizing tale with a slice of sweet coconut cake.

SUGAR & SMOKE is located at 74B School Street, Putnam, CT. 860-928-7842. Take-out only. Open Tuesday and Wednesday: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday: 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday and Saturday: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. (Catering is available)

SUGAR & SMOKE AT VINEYARD VALLEY GOLF COURSE is located at 34 Brayman Hollow Road, Pomfret Center, CT. 860-974-2100. Dine in or take-out. Open Thursday through Saturday: 11:30 a.m. – 7 p.m.

Maple Candied Bacon & Whiskey Butter

BY WINTER CAPLANSON

Want to try your hand at making the oh-so-trendy and very delicious Candied Bacon? This addictive snack is everywhere right now: it’s crispy, chewy, sweet, salty, smoky - and a little spicy. A crowd-pleasing finger food, you can also use it as a garnish for baked sweet potatoes, soups, salads, sandwiches, desserts or cocktails!

The Beamhouse in Glastonbury shared their recipes for easy Maple Candied Bacon - and The Butcher’s Daughter, their signature cocktail for which the bacon is a crowning touch:

INGREDIENTS

Applewood smoked bacon

Maple syrup

Brown sugar

Chili powder Red pepper flakes

No need to be fussy…the measurements are all to your preferred taste!

Slather the bacon in maple syrup; toss in brown sugar.

Bake on parchment-lined broiling pan at 375 F for 20-30 minutes until done, depending on thickness of bacon.

Remove from oven, sprinkle with chili powder and red pepper flakes, then let cool.

Garnish your cocktail... sip, sip, repeat.

Butcher’s Daughter Cocktail

INGREDIENTS

*1.5 oz Buttered Mellow Corn (house recipe below) .75 oz Schneider Hopfenweisse .5 oz Velvet Falernum .25oz Gran Classico Bitters

Stir, strain, and garnish with Candied Bacon *Buttered Mellow Corn 1 stick Irish or other grass-fed butter 1 750 ml bottle Mellow Corn (a high-proof, goldcolored American corn whisky)

Brown the butter. When melted, combine with the whisky in a large bowl. It will bubble a bit. Stir well. Let sit for 24 hours, then refrigerate. The butter solids will rise and coagulate. Remove solids and strain the whisky through a coffee filter to completely remove particulate. Store your Buttered Mellow Corn in the refrigerator.

BONUS: Gently re-melt and blend the Whiskey Butter; pour off into a ramekin to use in cooking or baking.