ISSUE ONE - SPRING 2011: THE REVOLUTION ISSUE
A LUXURY PUBLICATION FOR GAY MALE PROFESSIONALS
B
CREDITS & CONTACTS
TEAM CONQUER Editor in Chief & Creative Director JOSEPH TEHRANI
Assistant Editor DANIELLA BOURKE
Fashion Editor SARA DARLING
Graphic Designer RYAN BEAL
Writers
KING LOUIS JODI LAWLER CHARLES MATTHEWS JESSICA CLIFTON FRANKLIN BISHOP DAVID STAFFELL NICOLE RAPAPORT MARTHA ALEXANDER KAT PARR MACKINTOSH CLAIRE PRESTHUS ADAM LUCY DEREK JONES-BENNETT
Photographers
CHRISTOPHER SIMS & 55 STUDIOS NATALIE J WATTS JAY MCLAUGHLIN JEAN-LUC BROUARD PAUL SZEWCZYK
Fashion & Photographic Assitants BENJAMIN PENAGUIN AMY STILL HERMIONE RUSSELL
Make up & Grooming DEBBIE STOREY MIRA PARMAR JAMES OLIVER
Models
JJ CLARK FLORIAN PESSENTEINER IGOR MEDERIOS JAMES GALT JESSE BURGESS JAMES COOPER
Model Agencies STORM M&P PREMIER NEXT MODELS
Thank you & A Royal Salute to… CALVIN KLIEN COMME DE GARCONS LACOSTE JAIDEN RVA JAMES HENRI LLYOD OILER & BOILER JOSEPH IGWEH AS COMMUNICATIONS PROFILE PUBLIC RELATIONS LOREAL ARMANI MILLER HARRIS D&G SLENDERTONE APPLE DUNHILL DSQUARED ROLLS ROYCE JOHN GALLIANO GARETH PUGH INTERVIEW MAGAZINE LA PRAIRIE ARCHER ADAMS NICO DIDONNA SCHOTT HUDSON SHOES JAEGER G STAR SEIKO AQUASCUTUM CUTLER & GROSS KIRK ORIGINALS UDESHI LONDON BABBLE MAYFAIR GENTLEMENS TONIC & ALL MAJOR PR COMPANIES AND BRANDS THAT HAVE CONTRIBUTED OR ARE MENTIONED THOUGHOUT OUR FIRST ISSUE. WE BOW TO THEE.
Long Live Conquer! 4
Contact Conquer Email
EDITORINCHIEF@CONQUERMAGAZINE.CO.UK ADVERTISING@CONQUERMAGAZINE.CO.UK
Website
WWW.CONQUERMAGAZINE.CO.UK
Follow us on
RR WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/CONQUERMAGAZINE WWW.TWITTER.COM/CONQUERMAGAZINE
B
CONQUER IS CREATED & PUBLISHED BY THE HAUS OF REBELUTION LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. COPYRIGHT © 2011.
EDITORS LETTER
D
ear Conquer Reader,
Welcome to the first issue of Conquer magazine—The Revolution Issue. Here at Conquer we have started a new revolution—creating the first ever luxury, free quarterly, with high fashion & lifestyle for gay professionals in
London. We are also the first gay publication not to focus as highly on celebrities or sex. This concise, luxurious high glossy aims to entertain and present a showcase in fashion and lifestyle each season.
As opposed to a guide, we are a magazine offering stunning fashion editorials, catwalk features, grooming products,
culture and everything from property to travel and more. Conquer is an intellectual read, thought provoking,
avant-garde and alternative in more ways than one. From its content and overall design, to the way it’s printed,
Conquer aims to be a talking point amongst gay professionals. We aim to deliver you only the very best in style and sophistication. Showcasing everything that’s caught our eye in luxury fashion and lifestyle in the past few
months, creating and informing our own trends and offering our own creative selection. For the elegant, escapist gay professional who wants the low-down on everything that is luxurious and feel good in a fast-paced career in the big city.
This issue we have four fashion editorials filled with lustrous, eye popping, opulent style. We have many interviews
including; the London based luxury designer Nico Didonna, London’s top socialite and fashion blogger Prince
Cassius, West End actor Michael Cotton and a feature on the Canadian artist Noam Gonick. We also have features on the new Rolls Royce ‘Ghost’, must have items in your wardrobe, new gadgets, luxury castles to visit and stay as well as properties to invest in abroad, and more.
I want to say a big thank you to Team Conquer, the editorial and design team, who have contributed and helped
build the fortress—the royal gloss that covers the pages of Conquers first issue. I salute your hard work and vigour in help launching Conquer to the masses of London. I also want to thank everyone who has helped with the launch and invested their love and time in the brand—which in future will be the number one gay professional’s publication for luxury content and events.
I hope you find our first issue an enthralling, informative and entertaining read. Yours Sincerely,
Joseph Tehrani. Editor in Chief.
5
B
FASHION EDITORIAL PG 8-13: THE ROMANTICS CATWALK PG 14-15: REVOLUTION ON THE RUNWAY PG 16-17: LONDON FASHION WEEK EDITORIAL PG 18-23: THE ENGLISH GENTLEMAN BY ROYAL COMMAND PG 24-25: SPRING FASHION ESSENTIALS INTERVIEW PG 27: PRINCE CASSIUS PG 28: NICO DIDONNA EDITORIAL PG 30-35: FLAMBOYANT SOLDIER GROOMING PG 36-37: SPRING SCENTS & SKINCARE EDITORIAL PG 38-43: UNLAWFUL BEAUTY
7
B
FASHION
EDITORIAL
16
FASHION
EDITORIAL
B
Romantics THE
PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTOPHER SIMS
MAKE UP JONA
PHOTOGRAPHERS ASSISTANT BENJAMIN PENAGUIN
M JAME
STYLING SARA DARLING FASHION ASSISTANT AMY STILL
JACKET ORSCHEL READ
17
SHIRT WITH BOW FAKE LONDON
COLLARLESS JACKET CAROLYN MASSEY WAISTCOAT CAROLYN MASSEY BRACES ROKIT TROUSERS ORSCHEL READ VINTAGE SHOES PAUL SMITH
18
JACKET NICO DIDONNA TROUSERS PAUL & JOE GLOVES SERMONETA
MAKE UP JONA
M JAME
19
JACKETS ROKIT
20
FASHION
MAROON COAT WOOYOUNGMI
EDITORIAL
WHITE SHIRT EMMA WILLIS
B
GREY TROUSERS JAMES SMALL SMOKING JACKET ROKIT
MAKE UP JONA
M JAME
GROOMING & MAKE UP DEBBIE STOREY USING MAC AND GUERLAIN MODELS FLORIAN PESSENTEINER M&P IGOR MEDERIOS PREMIER 21
B
FASHION
CATWALK
Revolution On The Runway Some of us see fashion as practicality, some of us see fashion as more than this – more a vehicle of expression and ultimately, a form of revolution. There is a host of designers that have helped transport us menswear enthusiasts into a revolutionary and luxurious future of sophisticated design and style. The modern man might be a tapestry of daring and unpredictable trends, but it’s worth backdating and honouring the past before we step into the future.
to Emporio Armani, to Armani Jeans and Armani Exchange, his empire has Giorgio Armani has helped construct become synonymous with great style the architecture of the sophisticated for any man, of any age group, with any and fashion conscious man. It might income. just have been about slick suits during the conservative era of Saville Row, PRESENT but there is no denying that Armani’s impeccable tailoring revolutionised John Galliano ignited fantasy and and strengthened the air of masculinity. adventure back into the modern mans Armani also recognised the power of wardrobe. He doesn’t just present a advertisement and the importance of the collection and idea on the catwalk, he public. As luxurious and indulgent as it brings it to life. The runway becomes a could have been, to staple clothes to the carnival, the makeup is just as fantastical catwalk for a financially enriched few, as the clothing and Galliano himself will Armani was keen to broaden his catwalk even theme his attire and manner around to the pavement. With high street the show. He’s the pioneering pirate of collections that honoured, but didn’t making fashion the ultimate spectacle completely mirror his main collections, and wonderful illusion we can all soakit was an important milestone in up and dip into. It can be easy for the recognising and spurring on the idea amateur or tourist fashion enthusiast to not that the everyday man could ultimately relate to a lot of high fashion designers, be the modern man. He tailored the idea with shapes and textures that are hard to that anyone could look stylish and slick. crack and interpret, but Galliano tastefully Style is priceless and Armani broadened revels and ignites everyone’s love for his market by adapting varying brands. fancy dress. Banishing the boundaries, he From the high-end Giorgio Armani line, relishes the man-in-makeup, and whips
PAST
JOHN GALLIANO rainbows of unexpected colour into the masculine palette. Moving to London in 1966, from the Mediterranean colours of his upbringing, Galliano excelled and graduated through Central Saint Martins with ideas that honoured the Latin colour of the past, but transformed them into edgy and contemporary looks that fit into place in modern Britain. As if his direction and imagination isn’t enough to merit him revolutionary, it’s the passion and dedication to the fashion art that industry critics and the public all admire. Despite encountering bankruptcy on many occasions, the industry financially kept the Galliano motor running, such is the universal love and craving for his collections. Models such as Kate Moss would even work for him out of friendship rather than money. Currently between his own label and Dior, Galliano continues to be the rightfully flamboyant revolutionist of ‘the now’ illuminating much needed colour into the runway of life.
FUTURE Gareth Pugh is certainly the prince of darkness when it comes to this future enlightening. His clothes are conceptual, experimental, controversial and absolutely mind-bending to the eye, pushing our aesthetics into new lights and grounds for
JOHN GALLIANO PARIS A/W SHOW 2011
14
FASHION
CATWALK
EMPORIO ARMANI CAMPAIGN S/S COLLECTION 2011
GIORGIO ARMANI the better. Fashion has progressed over the years from stereotypical style, to colourful expression, into this future scope where ‘the art’ and meaning is just as important as the tailoring or aesthetic. It’s also an exciting look at a catwalk in bloom that fuses male and female trends into one accessible androgynous stem. Gone are the days when a blazer was stapled to a man, and draped material could only waterfall from a glamorous grunge woman. Gareth Pugh artistically illustrates how meaning can tame the madness, making any outfit and idea possible. Some of his finest and most recognised collections have included pvc inflated into voluminous coats, latex masks that indulge in the gothic, parachute silk that distorts and blows the mind, to electrically charged plastic that is a volt of inspiration. And with pop rebels such as Lady Gaga and Beyoncé having worn some of Gareth’s work, it looks like his
GARETH PUGH PARIS S/S SHOW 2010 dark avant-garde is going to silken shadow the future of fashion in the most excitingly unpredictable ways. These fashion designers have been edgy and daring in their approaches, dissecting the concept of contained style and informing the modern mans wardrobe—something that would have been looked upon as freakish, controversial and means for a revolt many moons and runways ago. But this fashion hybrid of the genders, otherwise known as androgyny, is a revolutionary trend that is set to make clothing a universal utopia in the future and beyond—and these great men have paved the way for many runways to come. Hail the three fashion warriors of past, present and future, we idolise and celebrate your willingness to create, and infect fashion boundaries forever more. Written by Charles Matthews 15
GARETH PUGH
B
BLondon Fashion Week FASHION
CATWALK
Fashion week is renowned for illustrating the expected trends-to-be, but in London there is an exciting air of persuasion, where quirky and rule breaking style is shown off for the fashion forward man to interpret and consider. While suits and brogues are very much still on the menswear agenda, London fashion week yet again, revelled in different designs that push the boundaries and present unpredictable new textures and fabrics.
Christopher Shannon playfully introduced an intoxicating fusion of style genres for A/W 2011. The collection was a wonderfully rustic and rural palette for the city slicker and professional, where the countryside carnival fused into sportswear. ‘Wherever in the world you look, sportswear seems to creep in’, Christopher exclaimed to fashion journalists. It certainly inhabited his runway in a tailored yet sporty manner. It was a perfect overall look for the city man, with an instinct for stylish travel to the gym, exuding a sense of health, life and attitude within the models strutting his designs. The collection included gravel grey knits above silky parka pants, quilted farmer jackets that blasted out bold industrial black and scarf’s that crept down the back of the neck for a
back-to-front twist. The highlight was the white shirts with colourful strips of patchwork, bringing bohemian romance into a new luxury landscape. The collection has widespread appeal for any man wanting to dress to impress, but with that subtle twist of print or colour. E. Tautz also hinted at a hybrid of styles, where the weathered parka’s and crisp coats worn with rugged beards and beanies, conveyed a fisherman about to move inland to the city landscape. The slick trousers rippled like waves and jumpers had a rich nautical design that was bold and electric to the eye. James Long was a designer that executed the distressed indie addiction from recent seasons, looking like Burberry after a spellbinding lightning strike to it. The jackets were a mixture of mohair and wool with a dark and intoxicating tartan pattern that added mystery to the style. Romantic, dark pink tweed accompanied the designs. With heavy knits that had unconventional patchwork and cobweb threads, James Long presented a look that is strong, masculine and seriously tailored, but with subtle tangled threads that adds a dark fantasy and intensity to the modern man. Fear not though, as the blazers and shirted look of nostalgic Hollywood was still on show, with many designers incorporating titan suits into their wardrobe. Mr Smart dedicated his collection to the aesthetic and MAN had colour popping blazers and doublebreasted cardigans for the young man with serious business intentions. J. W. Anderson really impressed with a twist on the business attire agenda, with trousers that appeared slightly high waisted, shirts bullets to the collar and work knits that fit so tightly they looked like cashmere armour. Even the daring skirts had something so wonderfully serious and professional about them, yet again demonstrating Anderson’s art at turning any character and style market into something more ambitious and still just as tasteful.
CHRISTOPHER SHANNON
Tween was also consistent with this flavour, where crisp jackets had corset belts to shape up and twist the silhouette and tight beanies with suits conveyed a tamed James Bond look about it. 16
J.W. ANDERSON So with this array of styles on show, London fashion week revelled in the city’s confident ability to shake up the stereotypes for how a man should dress. With styles fusing together and textures being experimented with more and more by the season, A/W looks set to be a season where men surprise, excite, but still stick to the classy masculine stance of classical dressing. Written by Charles Matthews Images courtesy of paul@allPhotoLondon.com
FASHION
CATWALK
JAMES LONG
TWEEN
JAMES LONG
MAN
TWEEN
J.W. ANDERSON
17
B
B
FASHION
EDITORIAL
16 18
WATCH ARMANI EXCHANGE
FASHION
EDITORIAL
THE
English
GENTELMAN PHOTOGRAPHY JAY MCLAUGHLIN STYLING NATALIE JAMES
19
B
B
FASHION
STRIPED BOW TIE T.M. LEWIN
EDITORIAL
UMBRELLA BEN SHERMAN
20
FASHION
SHOES JOHN WHITES
21
EDITORIAL
B
B
FASHION
EDITORIAL
22
FASHION
EDITORIAL
B
ALL SUITS & SHIRTS AARON RAY DOWIE MAKE UP & GROOMING MIRA PARMAR USING ELEMIS AND FREDERIC FEKKAI 23 21
BA
FASHION
BY ROYAL COMMAND
selection of must have clothing and accessories to add to your new spring wardrobe. Dress like a king and watch others bow to your style as a spring trendsetter and fashion lord. Bloom this season and let your luxurious self grow.
All the best-dressed feet around town should slip into Hudson shoes, whatever the occasion. These Hudson Swathmore tan calf leather boots are Victorian inspired. Teamed with a casual white cotton shirt and skinny jeans, this would add to a perfect spring look. Price: £125 www.hudsonshoes.com
You can’t go wrong with this trendy, military style Chronograph watch by classic brand Seiko. It does exactly what it says on the tin and is waterproof up to 100 metres. It won’t turn you into James Bond, but you may feel like him—for 30 seconds at least. Price: £180 www.seiko.co.uk
These unique and lavish Westminster umbrellas are a stylish accessory in the English weather to shun away those April showers. Choose from these alternative heads; Silver-plated skull, lion, leopard, labrador, horse, or a Swarovski crystal head. Made to a high standard with a lifelong guarantee. £148 – 177.60 www.archeradams.com
If the retro biker vibe is more up your alley, American classic brand Schott NYC have taken inspiration from ‘Grease lightning’ to provide a huge selection of Varsity inspired designs. Price: £295 www.stuartslondon.com 24
FASHION
BY ROYAL COMMAND
Corgi socks, a favourite of Prince Charles, have teamed up with Mark Marengo of Saville Row to create these 100% pure cotton, hand finished socks. Wear these graphic and abstract prints with your work and casual attire. Available in various colours and designs. £15 www.markmarengo.com Not only do these geek chic, Kinetic ‘Byte’ glasses from Kirk Originals look vitally trendy, but you can actually use them as optical glasses as well. With go faster frames and a choice of Spectrum, Flash, Skull or Equalizer, it will be difficult to choose so why not have them all. Prices from £235 – 269 www.kirkoriginals.com
If you want to impress your mates over drinks, you can’t go wrong with a stingray note holder from Udeshi. With only one in thirty hand chosen skins making the grade, when you buy these accessories you can be rest assured that you are buying a one-off! Available in various colours, in coin, note and cardholder variation. Prices from £155 – 215 www.udeshi.co.uk
When all you want to do is snuggle up you can do no wrong with this gorgeous cable G Star knit cardigan from USC. Perfect as an extra layer or dress to impress and wear it catwalk style with pride. Available in navy and grey. Price: £299 www.usc.co.uk
Written by Sara Darling
25
B
An Extraordinary Collection of Men’s Silk Scarves ...And Much More
2 Chiltern Street London W1U 7PR www.archeradams.com
FASHION Prince Cassius is London’s knight of the fashion table, a top socialite, blogger and style icon, with an afro for a crown. He mingles with and writes about top fashion events and designers and has just signed a deal to be the brand ambassador for Austin Reed and Herring Shoes including designing a bespoke collection for them. Conquer managed to interview the nominated GQ and Esquire magazines voted best dressed and we got talking fashion, his unique sense of style and his life as a major fashionista in London. Where did the ingenious Prince Cassius name derive from? Well I was born in the dessert of East Africa and my mother always wanted to name one of her sons ‘Prince’. Luckily I got the name. My name has certainly been a contrast to the life that I’ve lead, no royal treatment for me.
INTERVIEW My inspiration comes from English heritage, with a combination of the colonization of East Africa, think preppy, Mayfair and Saville Row meets Safari. Take us through a fabulous night out in London with Prince Cassius, where would you start, and where would you end up? My night out is usually very glamorous I have to say. It was certainly something I wasn’t used to at first, as I used to be a shy boy, but I enjoy it all now. On a normal night out with friends we usually have drinks at hotspots such as Sketch London by the Parlor and then hit clubs in Mayfair or Chelsea, such as Maddox, Raffels and Boujis.
Whats the most luxurious, socially mind-blowing, either launch/fashion show/event, you’ve been invited to, and why? Wow! That’s certainly a tough question. Every party, especially the ones I’ve blogged at, have always been spectacular and mind blowing. However, if I had to certainly narrow it down, into two, I would say Harrods and Austin Reed certainly know how to throw a SPECTACULAR party!
PrinceCassius
How would you describe your fashion style? I would describe my style as 1980’s glam, meets heritage and preppy, with a touch of modernity. My individual style is actually something that I’ve always worn, but over the years more and more people started paying attention and, as it turns out, to nominate me as one of Britain’s Best Dressed Men by GQ and Esquire Magazine.
What is your most prized possession which you can’t live without, and why? My prized possession would have to be my afro comb (laugh) seriously, I wouldn’t be seen anywhere without it. Throughout the years I have embraced my roots and having an afro has certainly made me stand out. So yes the comb would certainly be with me forever! Who is revolutionary or inspiring to you, and why? Two people that have been inspirational to me are Oprah Winfrey and Michael Jackson. They both had terrible childhoods and have battled so many obstacles throughout their lives, which has lead them to become two of the
world’s most successful and important figures in popular culture. Run us through a day in the life of Cassius? The day in Cassius’s shoes would consist of me combing my hair as usual, have breakfast, speak to my PA by 9.30 am and then start emailing responses from companies. Start blogging from the previous night event. Head out to the city for lunch to meet my fashionistas. Walk into Austin Reed or my favourite stores and get dressed for an evening event, then change and get a taxi to the event. Take some photos by the paparazzi, and mingle for a while, then move to another event. On some days I can get invited to eight parties a night. I see you’re a starting your own fashion line, can you explain more? Yes I am. Let’s just say I have focused the last few years in designing some pieces for the Cassius collection, such as blazers, shoes and bow ties. 27
What would you like to CONQUER in 10 years from now? In the next ten years I would love to see CONQUER, conquering the world. Being international of course and becoming the new Dazed and Confused, as well as online, and me being the front cover once a year at least. (Wink, wink). From a prince to a king, if you were king, how would you rule this country? Hmm, great question. I would style my citizens and pass a law that everyone who leaves his or her house would have to wear a bow tie and gorgeous shoes—as I believe gorgeous shoes are a step to success. Find Prince Cassius’s fabulous fashion blogs at: www.PrinceCassius.blogspot.com Interview conducted by King Louis
B
B
FASHION
INTERVIEW
Nico Didonna
Nico Didonna is one of London’s top luxury designers, with a boutique on D’arblay Street in the heart of Soho. Born in Italy, he came to London and studied tailoring at the London College of Fashion and has been designing for over 12 years. His clientele include Peter Andre, Tom Williams, and Jason Gardiner, who all love and commend his brand. Nico has also designed suits for some of the stars of Harry Potter, one of the main characters Ron Weasley, to name but a few. Our fashion editor managed to interview the designer, at his London boutique, to understand a little bit about his luxurious and exclusive brand. How would you describe your brand? It’s a luxurious brand aimed at a mainly male demographic—customers earning £60,000 or more. We also have celebrities and footballers, etc. One of our aficionados who comes in regularly is Theo Walcott from Arsenal.
particularly well known. Our jackets and pants, they always fit well. Tailoring is always of high standard. I design fundamentally classic garments with a twist to make them more Nico Didonna. It’s all in the details, which informs our signature pieces.
Does he buy bespoke or off the shelf? He likes a lot of knitwear and denim from off the shelf. My collections are not very big, the whole collection would count as a limited edition to other luxury designers. Certain denim only comes in 6 pieces. My items are not massproduced, and are purely one-offs.
What do you predict for menswear in 2011? Fashion in the sense of paying more attention in becoming better dressed. For a number of years men have neglected their appearance a little bit, so I hope that 2011 will be different! Emphasis on cut is very particular. We make a classic, versatile product. My collection for Spring/Summer 2011 includes pieces which are detachable and create a completely different garment once worn apart—so in effect you can make two garments out of them.
Describe the Nico Didonna customer? Well, it’s mainly a man with personality, a man who has a strong sense of his fashion identity and style. Once you wear one of our garments its clear you are wearing a unique and specialised product, which is made using the best in luxury materials. The Nico Didonna customer is a trendy man who likes to stand out from the crowd and make a clear fashion statement. Do you have a Nico Didonna signature piece? We have signature items that are
Where do you source your fabrics? Our Fabrics come from Italy, France, Germany, Japan and America, but are bought here in this country. We source them from one place and we personally hand pick them. Do you offer bespoke tailoring services? Indeed we do, thats part of the service
provided to our customers. If a customer comes in and sees a garment he particularly likes, but wants to change the colour, lining, or pockets, we can change the details for him. We do a lot of customising actually. What’s your career highlight so far? Recently we worked with Warner Bros on the Harry Potter movie and produced lots of costumes for the cast for various scenes in it. I’ve not seen the recent film, but it’s a pleasure to know my garments are ingrained in celluloid forever. What’s next for the brand? Do you have any exciting developments? An expansion is on the horizon. I’m thinking of maybe taking the product to an area where I’m not so well-known. This is not just a luxury store which sells high-end products and one-off limited editions. We do not just sell fashion, we sell a service to our clients. Is their going to be a Nico Didonna revolution? Would you like to see the whole of London wearing Nico Didonna? Why not! I don’t think the whole of London is ready to think the way I think yet though. I am exhibiting at the ‘Stitch’ exhibition to get more buyers who will help me start the revolution worldwide! This is only the beginning… Find the new Nico Didonna S/S collection at: www.nico-d.com Interview conducted by Sara Darling
NICO DIDONNA S/S 2011 COLLECTION 28
F AFSAHS IHOIN VA I ELW O N I NCTAETRW K
29
B
B
FASHION
EDITORIAL
Flamboyant SOLDIER PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTOPHER SIMS PHOTOGRAPHERS ASSISTANT BENJAMIN PENAGUIN STYLING SARA DARLING FASHION ASSISTANT HERMIONE RUSSELL
SHIRT PERCIVAL DUFFLE BAG JAEGER OLIVE LEGGINGS AM GOLHAR BOOTS PEDRO GARCIA
30
FASHION
EDITORIAL
B
GREEN SHIRT BRIAN CLARKE STRING VEST AM GOLHAR
TROUSERS BRIAN CLARKE BROGUES MAGNANNI
31
SHIRT WILLIS & GUNN SCARF ROKIT
32
SHIRT BRIAN CLARKE EPAULETTES JENNY MCILHATTON WAISTCOAT OLIVER SPENCER BROOCH ADRIAN ERIC MORALES
33
NECKLACES ADRIAN ERIC MORALES
34
FASHION
SHIRT VINTAGE BIBA JACKET BRIAN CLARKE BROOCHES ADRIAN ERIC MORALES
MAKE UP & GROOMING JONAS OLIVER MODEL JAMES COOPER
35
EDITORIAL
B
BI
FASHION
GROOMING
ndulge in the most elitist of scents and skincare this spring. Smell and look your best with these luxury products that will be a fine edition to your cabinet of tricks and quick fixes. A busy day in the big smoke, we have various spring essentials to help your grooming regime go like clockwork when on the move.
Spring Scents
Feuilles de tabac by Miller Harris is a distinct and special fragrance, rich and sophisticated, its top notes are composed of Cuban cascarilla oil and primento berries while pine needles, velvet sage, patchouli and tobacco create the statement mid and base notes. An alluring scent that oozes class and sets the men from the boys. Price: £55 - 50ml / £80 - 100ml www.millerharris.com
Aventus by Creed is for the important gentleman that commands respect by Creeds declaration. A leather and glass bottle of opulence containing blackcurrant top notes with bergamot. Mid notes are roses, jasmine blossom and patchouli for a woody centre and an oak base added with ambergris and vanilla. Reign highly with this fragrance. Price: £123 - 75ml www.creedfragrances.co.uk
Lonestar Memories by Andy Tauer is a real American looking and smelling scent. This will transport you to a ranch in Texas with its all Yankee vibe. Birch tar, smoky bonfire notes, with spicy carrot, green geranium and leather, this is all man in a bottle, cowboy inspired scent. Price: £90 - 50ml www.lessentears.com
Illuminum is a collection of fifteen scents by Michael Bodi. Containing 8 ingredients, the musk, floral, citrus, Oud collections are an array of uncomplicated scents—a variation for the undecided. Bodi describes the scents as stylish and simple. Have a scent for each day of the week and smell chic day and night. Price: From £70 - 50ml www.harrods.com
36
FASHION
GROOMING
Spring Skincare
B
Pure richness in a bottle, La Prairie White caviar illuminating serum is a potent anti-aging potion with caviar to lift, firm and nourish the skin whilst banishing pigmentation. Bottled in an elegant white and silver futuristic bottle, this will not go a miss in your grooming regime against anti-ageing. Transporting your skin to its former glory. Price: £266 - 15ml www.harrods.com
Bestseller Biotherm Homme Aquapower moisturiser is perfect for normal/ combination skin. This light hydration milk uses thermal plankton and vitamins to keep skin healthy and moisturised. An everyday must have for a healthy complexion. Price: £26.55 - 75ml www.debenhams.com
DSquared He Wood is a fragranced moisturising after-shave balm that is a combination of air, water and wood, with amber, musk, violet leaves, vetiver and cedarwood. He Wood is a back to Mother Nature ethic from bottle, scent and its feel—a perfect end to a clean shave. Price: £42 - 100ml www.harrods.com
The black jar really informs you this is the Italian superiority of designer Giorgio Armani. A real men’s grooming luxury. The Skin Minerals Regenerating Cream will help minimise fine lines, firms and regenerates the skins texture. Volcanically enriched with an array of minerals to help reproduce newer, fresher skin. Price: £52 - 50ml www.houseoffraser.co.uk Written by King Louis & Jodi Lawler 37
B
FASHION
EDITORIAL
UNLAWFUL
Beauty PHOTOGRAPHY NATALIE J WATTS STYLING SARA DARLING FASHION ASSISTANT HERMIONE RUSSELL
38
WATCHES TIMEX GLASSES CUTLER AND GROSS 39
TWEEZERS TWEEZERMAN
40 40
PINK TOWEL TOMMY HILFIGER SUNGLASSES FLY LONDON
41
FACE MASK NEALS YARD 42
FASHION
MAKE UP & GROOMING DEBBIE STOREY USING MAC COSMETICS & TIGI BEDHEAD HAIR PRODUCTS MODELS JAMES GALT M&P 43
JESSE BURGESS STORM
43
EDITORIAL
B
TRADITIONAL BARBERSHOP & GROOMING SERVICES IN THE HEART OF MAYFAIR
31A BRUTON PLACE LONDON W1J 6NN TEL: 0207 297 4343 WWW.GENTELMENSTONIC.COM
LIFESTYLE ART PG 46: NOAM GONICK DESIGN PG 47: THE REVOLUTION OF GREEN - THE INDOOR GARDEN LITERATURE PG 48: GERTRUDE STEIN & THE LOST GENERATION MUSIC PG 49: THE DEVOLUTION OF POP ICON PG 50-51: MADONNA FILM PG 52: 3D REVOLUTION THEATRE PG 53: INTERVIEW WITH MICHAEL COTTON FOOD & DRINK PG 54: BABBLE - MAYFAIR HEALTH & FITNESS PG 57-58: FITNESS REVOLUTIONS: THE HISTORY OF EXERCISE POLITICS PG 59: REVOLUTION TO EVOLUTION: THE 21ST CENTURY GAY MAN MOTORS PG 60-61: A VERY ENGLISH GHOST STORY TECHNOLOGY PG 62: THE LATEST GADGET MUST HAVES INTERIORS PG 63-64: ALLE: REVOLUTIONARY INTERIOR DESIGN PROPERTY PG 66-67: THE ROYAL GETAWAY TRAVE L PG 68-69: KING OF THE CASTLE
45
B
LIFESTYLE
ART
Noam Gonick
Cultural critic Tobin Siebers argues that utopia is located in sexual politics, its ideal community equally accepting diverse sexualities and combining them in a functioning assembly that welcomes the inclusion of sexual differences. If a utopian revolution lies within sexual politics and community, few directors have as utopian an oeuvre as Noam Gonick. Although his subject matter varies from political uprisings and marginalised Native youths to bitchy, tripped out space-queens and the eroticisation of torture, themes of the sensual and intentional community prevail with both erotic and comical moments. Gonick’s idol Bruce LaBruce claimed that homophobia is ‘nature’s way of reminding us that if we’re not going to be reproducing, we better have a damn good ontological rationalisation for being here’, and Gonick has risen to that challenge, spreading his vision through television, film and installations over the past decade. Unwilling to sacrifice authenticity for commercial viability, the revolutionary aspects of Gonick’s work rests with his depictions of marginalised communities and how his portrayal of these communities challenges traditional ideas and assumptions. His first feature film, the acid-induced romantic comedy Hey, Happy! (2001) recounts the quest of a porn shop DJ named Sabu who strives to sleep with 2,000 men amidst an apocalyptic flood and, with a little assistance from a woman named Magnolia Thunderpussy, proves new lives are possible, while simultaneously exploiting homophobic fears that the apocalypse will be heralded by homosexual acceptance. Gonick’s second feature, Stryker (2004), follows a much different scope, depicting the rivalry between the Native and Filipino youths in Winnipeg’s poverty-stricken North End. Gonick supports the Native youths of his hometown as they lead an army of resistance to reclaim their birthright by creating a film meant to inspire the Native population to retaliate against Canada’s government. The film also challenges assumptions about the Native populations
WILDFLOWERS OF MANITOBA (2007)
by portraying the role of hip-hop culture in their lives and relationships between gang members and transvestites, thereby denying the assumption that Native youths are unintelligent and culturally stagnant. Gonick’s installation Wildflowers of Manitoba (2007) (created with Luis Jacob), depicts utopia as a sensual return to the land through projected images of a pastoral paradise, while his installation Commerce Court (2008), projects a banker on the verge of a breakdown spewing infomercial jargon and screaming ‘jump while you can’ as he towers over the headquarters of the Canadian Imperial Bank of Commerce at the onset of Canada’s economic crisis. Displayed last summer at Sketch’s gallery in Mayfair, Gonick’s recent installation No Safe Words (2008), was originally created for the JumboTron at Toronto’s Gay Pride March in 2008, and juxtaposes documentary images from the gay pride parade in Toronto of law enforcement and participants against scenes of the University of British Columbia’s Thunderbirds football team engaging in various forms of torture, including waterboarding. The work links totalitarianism with sexual play and calls attention to how sexuality was used as a form of humiliation to abuse prisoners in Guantanamo Bay and Abu
HEY, HAPPY (2001) Ghraib and how this violation of human rights became eroticised with ‘no safe words’ available to cease the abuse. As a comment on the North American intervention in the Middle East, No Safe Words employs the mainstream media form of sports advertising with disconcerting references such as Hitler. This uneasy tension is then furthered by the inclusion of police, who initially appear friendly due to the pride flag placed on their car, but turn menacing as depictions of abuse are spliced with their imagery. The tortured footballers are made faceless as underwear is placed over their heads in the color and arrangement of the gay pride flag, thus removing their identity, and by extension humanity, making it easier to waterboard them even as they stand as the visual representation of an object of pride. By utilising queerness as a launching point for wider political critique, Gonick illustrates that on the surface sexual equality may appear achieved; however there are still oppressive forces to overcome. Noam Gonick can be found at: www.vimeo.com/noamgonick
NOAM GONICK
46
Written by Claire Presthus
B The Revolution of Green: The Indoor Garden LIFESTYLE
When discussing revolutions its nearly impossible to not mention the green movement. Popular and momentous, this environment-championing movement has been adopted by numerous designers in various ways, including the practice of Cradle to Cradle design in which new products are either biodegradable or reusable (in opposition to the Cradle to Grave model in which a landfill provides a product’s final resting place). With the spring months upon us, we Londoners are arguably in need of more green in our lives to reflect the flourish of growth outside and to counteract the grey and dreary days behind us. Several designers have come up with innovative methods of bringing the outdoors inside through indoor gardening constructions that purify the air. Ukiyo-e is one such creation. Meaning ‘pictures of a floating world’ in Japanese, Ukiyo-e is composed of resin and fiberglass and designed by Florent Coirier, Grégory Marion, and Laurianne Lopez for Vertilignes. Ukiyo-e reintroduces vegetation into interiors by suspending its garden of herbs at eye level instead of looking downwards at a garden, creating a new aesthetic experience of the plants by introducing a sense of mystery as not all aspects are readily visible. By using Vertisol, an enhanced soil created by Vertilab, the garden’s lifespan is extended while allowing the plants to be watered less frequently, thereby eliminating water waste. Heralding in a sense of whimsy and curiosity, Ukiyo-e translates gardening
DESIGN
ECOTYPIC BED
into sculptural art. Links: www.gregorymarion.com www.florentcoirier.com www.vertilignes.com
For more info go to: www.boskke.com Moving away from plants as a lone entity, Arthur Xin has designed the Ecotypic Bed in which one can literally garden in their sleep. Ecotypic describes a population adapted to its specific environment and Xin’s bed is cleverly evolved for city-dwellers concerned about sustainable living. The climatecontrolled Ecotypic Bed appears to have anything one could ask for— LED reading lights, music speakers, and vegetation climbing the bedposts. Through a battery installed beneath the bed, all activities in the bed are converted into energy to power the lights which sustain the plants. If your bed activity doesn’t supply enough power (although there are plenty of ways to ensure that it does), the bed comes equipped with sports rings and pulleys for exercise to create additional energy, allowing you to sleep, read, and get fit amongst aromatic greenery.
Another gravity-defying form of planting offering a new perspective on gardening is Boskke’s Sky Planters. Designed by Patrick Morris and a favorite at the 2010 London Design Festival, the planters utilise often overlooked ceiling space, creating a canopy of upside-down potted plants without forfeiting precious floor space for urbanites. The planter’s unique watering system cuts down on excess H2O, while mesh covering keeps the soil from defiling one’s immaculate living space. The white pots intensify the plant’s natural beauty as it stands out against its container which, coupled with the unique visual of the topsy-turvy planting technique, creates an aweinspiring visual experience recalling Alice’s tromp through Wonderland. Recommended plants include Geraniums and Orchids to enhance For more info go to: décor or Strawberries and Mint for a www.arthur-xin.com functional kitchen addition. Written by Claire Presthus
BOSKKE SKY PLANT
UKIYO-E 47
BGertrude Stein & LIFESTYLE
LITERATURE
The Lost Generation Gertrude Stein is one of the most prominent cultural paragons of the early 20th century; the pre-eminent madame of the Parisian literary intelligentsia who furthered the careers of emerging artistes as diverse as Hemingway and Picasso. An indefatigable patron of art and skilled poet in her own right, she is what we would term a true modern, with her curious mix of self-sufficiency and vulnerability, of indomitable practicality and poetic otherness, dreamed up out of an ‘excess of consciousness’. Stein wrote daringly, though privately, of coming out and ménage a trois love affairs as early as 1903, and was bold in stylistic terms too, courting a cavalier approach to grammar and syntax that both enchanted and infuriated contemporary readers. In her poetic work Tender Buttons (1914), Stein reveals a penchant for things, exploring the fetishism of objects, of counting and cataloguing, that rivals our own modern obsession with flotsam and bric-a-brac, of possessions and collections of endless impedimenta. She peers into the spiritualism of the inanimate that was being addressed by other modernists of the time, such as Virginia Woolf and James Joyce. Forever seeking to be experimental, the famous line of hers ‘A rose is a rose is a rose
BY PICASSO (1905-06)
is a rose’ is at once a triumphant, lofty affirmation of the enduring timelessness of beauty; a chiasmus of confidence and symmetry, and yet a blunting leveller, in which all material things can be factored in to an utilitarian equation of total uniformity. Stein’s words were often cryptic and existentialist; language being her greatest tool of expression, she took pleasure in fiercely negating the meaning of certain words whilst imbuing others with special importance. Of the hollowness of her home in California she quipped meaningfully, ‘There is no there there’—effectively whitewashing an entire American state in a few wellchosen syllables. Stein regarded America as a cultural wasteland, and like fellow Modernist poets T. S. Eliot and Ezra Pound, fled its shores accordingly, emigrating to Europe and specifically Paris, on a quest for enlightenment to re-write artistic manifestos and re-shape poetic metre. There is a romance in the innocence of these dreams when juxtaposed with a suggestive modern equivalent; the popstar’s commercial and cynical hop across the pond in order to ‘break America’, anyone? Stein came to be something of a satellite for other émigrés, and her salon was one of the most highly regarded in Paris. It is Stein who is credited with coining the term ‘the lost generation’; originally a description for the displaced young men of the First World War, it came to evoke a post-war subculture of youth all over Europe that were dispossessed, disillusioned and had rolled forlornly loose from moorings of convention and societal structure. It is somehow a poetic term, nostalgic and ripe with wistful regret, which remains resonant today. Stein’s extraordinary prescience can also be seen in her very early usage of the term gay in its modern context, in her essay, ‘Miss Furr and Miss Skeene’, (1922) about same-sex relationships. A lesbian herself, Stein unwittingly advanced and propelled this loaded word into the public arena, contributing perhaps to its ubiquity in 48
BY CARL VAN VECHTEN (1935) our label-obsessed society of the postmillennium, in which we seek to define everything and everyone precisely, and at once, ascribing assumptive tags and pigeon-holing practically on sight. So what magic words does the eminent, shrewd poet have for the lost generation today? Rather potent ones, as it turns out, on the nature of aspiring to be revolutionary. The modernism manifesto of the early 20th century can be fairly neatly summed up by Stein’s friend and contemporary, Ezra Pound, who urged enigmatically ‘Make it new’, a doctrinal construct which seems to speak volumes for our own generation. The 1920’s are frequently depicted as an era of listless ennui as well as ‘roaring’ hedonism; a decade containing a youth often stiflingly bored by its limitations and absence of action. The high society of ninety years ago would have embraced novelty for novelty’s sake as whole-heartedly as we do today. Shiny and new is everywhere we look; thanks to our national attentiondeficit-disorder, we are the rushingheadlong, conveyor-belt and internet generation; quickly bored and reliant upon cultural stimulation on tap— daily, hourly, updating and refreshing by the second, ad infinitum. But Stein is not speaking of novelty when she proffers the pertinent conundrum, ‘If it can be done, why do it?’ These words are a voluble call for revolution in the arts; to leap-frog the alreadyestablished, instigating pure invention and boldness; iconoclasm and bravery; innovation and avant-garde; and that tired old term—originality. Modernism was then, and still is, about looking back to look forward. Make it new. Written by Jessica Clifton
LIFESTYLE
MUSIC
The Devolution of Pop
B
From revolution to devolution - people have been predicting the death of pop music for years now. Many among us have griped, mused and moaned, and with a dour, prophetic certainty, envisioned the entire industry of Cowells and Cheryls, boy bands and novelty acts, choreographed automats, miming and auto-tune, crumble dramatically into the dust. They are to be swept away, it seems, by a tsunami of intelligence, integrity and authentically-nurtured originality, worlds apart from the heavy-handedness of controlling record labels with cynical commercial agendas. But it’s this same industrial machine, churning out identikit, conveyor-belt dross that now and then—in a blue moon and upon the witching hour, perhaps— spews out something that little bit more left-field and avant-garde: Lady Gaga, anyone?
One of the great things about Gaga is that she wasn’t birthed overnight in full madcap regalia, ravishingly replete with McQueen Armadillos on her feet and hair bows sewn into her scalp. She started out as plain old Stefani; a background brunette in civilian clothes. On the one hand, it is sort of a shame that she wasn’t beamed down from some inter-galactic fantasy-fashion empyrean of blue, but on the other, it’s quite gratifying to be able to join the dots— to trace the evolution from caterpillar to chrysalis. The nature of these acts then, is that a part of you loves them, but a laconic corresponding self suspects you for doing so. No longer are pop artists simple guilty pleasures—the line has been blurred, and cleverly done so. What is style, and what is styled? How can you spot a spontaneous moment from the carefully coordinated result of a record company meeting? Lady Gaga is an industry darling and bonafide Sony cash-cow, as well as functioning as a notoriously independent megalomaniac, in control of everything inside the bubble of her unique and private dream-factory, from song lyrics to the atelier crafting
her costumes—the aptly named Haus of Gaga. The truth is, artists need at least the semblance of independent volition and autonomy to survive; i.e. Rihanna, Katy Perry, Ke$ha. Certainly the old guard seemed too manufactured and have suffered, apparently, as a result— Aguilera’s career having slightly died a death of late, with cancelled tours and a less than enthusiastic response to her comeback album. Britney’s catatonic melt-down and subsequent lost years, have been minutely documented. Nowadays, we want to cherry-pick from different types of pop artist, rather than bowing to a one-size-fits-all, cardboardcut-out mentality. One day we’ll thrill to the aloof, otherworldly ambience of Robyn, Grace Jones or the XX. Another, there are insatiable cravings for the fierce punk ethos of Peaches, and M.I.A, Beth Ditto and Karen O. The next, it’s only the brash, camp theatricality of Kylie and Scissor Sisters that will truly hit the spot. The endless supply of X Factor alumni are marked by the immense peaks and troughs of their short-lived success; careers resembling exclamation-mark squiggles on a graph chart. Fever, frenzy, then forgotten (repeat to fade)— these pop-binges have a short shelf-life, are a quick fix. Pop music aficionados tend to hark back to a purer, less commercial time; a musical golden age when pop acts were not commodities. They cite, with a sigh, the originality of Bowie, Blondie, and Queen—visionary performance artists who didn’t obey the rules, falling through the gaps and straight on to our stages as a result. Even the oft-maligned New Romantics of the 1980’s; Visage, Boy George, and Adam Ant, were painted club kids first and pop stars second. You could tell they did their own make-up and weren’t puppets on corporate strings. It was Andy Warhol who originated the 49
phrase ‘fifteen minutes of fame’, and his own artistic space was called, ironically, Factory. He was utterly commerciallyminded, despite his pretensions towards the outré and carefully staked-out territory on the fringes of subcultures; a cool outsider paying no attention to the juggernaut of mainstream success. In recent years the Andy Warhol Foundation has collaborated with luxury brands from Chanel to Dom Perignon. Perhaps he is the poster-child for today’s clued-up generation, providing the formula of commercial gloss + ability to replicate + a wayward edge = saleability and success. It is a recipe that TV talent shows strive to emulate, but the result often ends up leaving a bad taste. And so the X Factor circus has driven out of town; the nation is no longer caught up in the hysteria and epidemic. A new year heralds a new cleanness and austerity: we have swept away the bloated frivolities of Cowell’s monster-creation with the Christmastree pines and tattered ribbons. The mighty X Factor, and to an even greater extent Britain’s Got Talent, are modern incarnations of the Victorian freak show; and Simon the dark, charismatic ringmaster with silver shilling signs in his eyes. If we must pound the treadmill of popular music, hop on the industry’s gaudy carousel from time to time, then one must admit, the visual and aural fireworks, the sheer spectacle, of Gaga et al certainly constitutes a rollercoaster. Written by Jessica Clifton
B
LIFESTYLE
ICON
PHOTOGRAPHY MARCUS PIGGOTT & MERT ALAS 50
LIFESTYLE An activist, a pop cultural phenomenon, a renegade and genius at her known craft. We are consumed by her beauty, her passion, timelessness, power and grit. Transforming gay culture as we know it, from super-pop, to businesswomen and political proclaimer, the boundary-breaking and shape-shifting idealist in pop culture, the flawless beacon that has set our world alight, a perfect creation that influences and shapes our surrounding culture and summons our lifestyles.
ICON
underdog, more so than feminism and women’s liberators. Her beauty, her intelligence and also wit, in using ironic titles and notions within her art form, has resurfaced for another generation, and will again in 50 years time. From 1980s Like a Virgin to gyrating with Justin Timberlake in the 2008 4 Minutes video, this woman has no boundaries and cannot be stopped after three decades at the top.
Madonna embodies every icon before her, Dietich to Garbo, Monroe to Davis, from screen goddess to femme fatale, singer, controversial mistress and powerhouse of pop. Madonna; fashion icon and revolutionary. But I’m not exploring the grand queen of pops roots here, her million-selling back catalogue, or her sold-out world tours; I’m here to discuss her political and cultural status. Yes, all these elements have helped form the megastar that is Madonna, but her reason for being has taken theorists and feminists alike to believe that she has a philosophical reason for being and co-existing in our troubled and dark world. From sex to spirituality, Madonna has had a need to create and form opinions that obstruct and inform our lifestyle and life choices. Express Yourself, the 1989 hit, which explored the camp, liberation of never accepting second best, paved the way for women in exploring their own sexuality. Madonna’s knack to use sex and fashion, religion and empowering lyrics has informed generations of copycats, fans and wannabes. Love her or loath her, she’s had a profound affect on the gay scene as a whole.
The Erotica album and the Sex book of 1992 to the Human Nature video of 1995 has apparently inspired the S&M Rihanna song and video recently—making her own liberating statement against the media. But Madonna’s callings of Dita, her nemesis and alter ego at the time, had a more than prolific and political stance. It was an era of new proportions in America and the 1990’s were a period of major selfexpression, voyeurism and changes in the world’s idea of sex and sexuality. The 1980’s saw the rising of HIV and AIDS and a calling for more gay rights. Madonna led the way with her unveiling of her immaculate conception of hits and cutting edge videos, daring media statements and world tours.
Madonna
From her fans to detractors, I feel her real worth is unseen and it goes unnoticed to her best abilities, in the capability that she is informing her own trends and obstructing various political opinions and controversial issues. Burning crosses, racial barriers, and homosexuality—have formed an everlonging symbolism within her craft. Her use of post-modernism is her calling, incarnations of Monroe and icons of the 1930’s and 1940’s in many of her 1990’s guises, inform her imagery and iconography, very much premeditated through her style and imagery in tours
and videos. From the iconic image of Christ on the cross to Madonna, iconography has secular meanings to varying cultures and sub-cultures. To Madonna it’s been as a symbol of sex and sexuality throughout. She even made a comment back in the day about the image being sexy, a man half-naked on a cross. Blasphemous or liberating?
From blasphemy to feminism, Madonna has shocked and mocked the establishment in religious and social contexts. Women’s liberation has all but reached a new high in the new millennium, with nearly every woman asking, ‘if you liked it you should of put a ring on it’, in a callus and subversive way. Madonna’s edgy yet philosophical outcry, has banished the use of innerwear to outerwear in 1990 to her use of her Boy Toy stamp—with her all new toyboy obsession after her split with Guy Ritchie, with Jesus Luz a Brazilian model half her age. She’s made it ok for a woman to want to feel sexual and courageous in a battle against the ideas of being a whore in a man’s world, which is seen as something society prefers to ignore or covet nowadays. She’s followed by the Samantha’s of Sex and the City to Gaga’s and Britney’s of this world. But her creation and propaganda are seen as feats of celebration to the 51
Sex sells, and Madonna has in fact been apart of her own sexual revolution. She endorses the rebel, the bitch, the powerful and the outlandish. It’s probably her need to deal with inner demons—by helping society deal with its own. Her photo shoot opposite and above in 2010, in Interview Magazine, saw the resurrection of this provocative nature. At 52, she’s unstoppable, sexy, ruthless and a stylistic creation of beauty and sex. Holding the cross in a seductive manner as a tool, an accessory, with thigh boots and next to nothing on, shows she’s still as brash and controversial as ever—holding an iconic symbol she has used throughout her whole career. I feel the Interview shoot really sums up Madonna’s entire career in one fashion editorial—sex, religion, fashion and controversy through iconic symbolism and rebellious poses. Madonna is an icon who is now at true saintly status. Long live the queen, the icon of icons. Strike an eternal pose within our shine of ICON, and may you conquer forever more. Written by King Louis
B
B
LIFESTYLE
FILM
3DRevolution From silent cinema to the first talkie, from black and white to Technicolor—film has emerged to be a truly revolutionary art form since the dawn of the 20th century. Now with a 3D revolution upon us we enter a new dimension in filmmaking and see the uprising of something that has already changed how we perceive films and film making forever.
3D evolved slowly after its first feature film in 1922 called The Power of Love, but it had real prominence in the 1950’s, predominantly in American cinema. The retro era in filmmaking, with the likes of the ‘B’ movie, and cult horrors, when television was at an all time high. 3D came along in a bid to win new audiences. In 5,000 theatres across the US, people would wear cardboard red and cyan coloured glasses to see the House of Wax, Dial M For Murder and Kiss Me Kate. It wasn’t to last—people suffered eye strain and headaches due to the blurred vision projected wrongly in movie theatres. 3D burnt out, but not for long. The flare for 3D films experienced a worldwide resurgence in the 1980’s and 90’s with such films like Jaws and Friday the 13th to IMAX films and theatres. The noughties saw a popular and extreme evolution in 3D, with the likes of Avatar in 2009, where 3D had hit a new benchmark. 2004 saw the release of a film called The Polar Express which was the first animated film to adopt the ‘Real D 3D’ system. This is the most current development in the 3D revolution, ‘Real D’ systems use polarised glasses, in addition to displaying images at 144 frames per second to create this unique effect. Currently there are 65 digital screens in the UK and about 2,000 worldwide however the prediction is that there will be more than 10,000 by the end of 2012; this is mostly due to the rapid development and expansion of 3D technology. It seems that everyone is jumping on the
bandwagon when it comes to 3D film. It appears that the 3D revolution proves to be a very lucrative business with Avatar reportedly making in access of $2.5bn worldwide after 14-weeks on general release. However, this development has not abated with plans for up to 30 3D films to be released this year including some of the biggest titles in the pipeline, including Titanic and Star Wars, due to become part of the 3D revolution within the next five years. But what does this revolution mean for cinema owners and the general public? The most obvious aspect is that they face the hassle of replacing traditional film based projectors with digital projectors, as Real D systems don't use traditional film. Instead a 4K digital file is projected from a hard-drive and projected towards the screen. The most immediate benefits of this are the fact that the film does not degrade after every showing, thus resulting in a sharper image been shown every time. This transformation however is a pricey business reportedly costing cinemas up to £50,000 to replace a digital projector and a further £10-£20,000 to add a 3D upgrade. Cinemas are not so reluctant to spent this money as the potential revenue benefits of 3D have already been proven the 3D release of films such as Madagascar and Chicken Little have taken at least two or three times as much as their 2D releases. These results are good for the cinema’s but the knock-on effects of this are reflected in the ticket-sale prices at these cinema’s— its been reported that in some places in America ticket prices have gone up by 52
more than $5 in an effort to recoup the outlaid expenses. In light of all this, 3D is here to stay, with cinemas all across the world packed to bursting point at the release of each new 3D film. What now is the future of 3D entertainment? Not only have we seen its resurgence in the cinemas and its popularity within popular culture, but the 3D film revolution has also managed to penetrate into the higher echelons of the film world—a series of new 3D films were recently shown at the Berlin Film festival. Among the films shown at the festival were works from the French animator Michel Ocelot and a dance film from German director Wim Wenders. Wender’s film ‘Pina’ pays homage to Germany’s modern dance legend Pina Bausch. When asked about his film and 3D as a film medium he said ‘I think 3D is tailor-made for dance, it goes together so well’. With welcoming embraces from the art-film world it appears that on a whole we are ready to totally envelope this new experience in film technology. From 2004 to present we have seen 3D truly evolve across the globe, with 3D televisions and programming already breaking new ground. From 3D cinema to Blue Ray and TV, the 3D revolution has become this combined entity in moviemaking and marketing history. Is this yet again another fad or is 3D here to stay this time? Written by Derek Jones-Bennett & King Louis
B Interview with Michael Cotton LIFESTYLE
who hated it and went into the Navy. I was always singing and acting and did all the regular school shows and got all my mates to reluctantly be in my shows. The first West End show I saw was Me and My Girl at the Adelphi, I knew then it was what I was going to do. My favourite show was West Side Story. The music is incredible and the dancing—telling a story—was something new to me. The story was so sad. I always wanted to be in it. I got the chance to play Tony when doing a UK tour of West Side Story.
What is your take on BBC reality TV shows like ‘Any Dream Will Do’ and ‘I’ll do Anything’, marketing ploy or great entertainment?
Michael Cotton is a renowned west end actor, being in some the most celebrated, and memorable musicals of all time, to hit the London circuit, from Cats, Les Miserables, My Fair Lady, Oliver, West Side Story and many more. He has recorded a number one selling jazz album, and is now touring with topselling theatre act, Teatro, in the U.S. We caught up with Michael and talked musicals, reality television, and his new projects for 2011. From a young age you were always enthralled by musicals. What is your favourite musical, and why? I remember loving the film Grease when I was very young. I would sit in front of the TV playing, stopping and rewinding the Video (what’s a video!) until I wrote down the lyrics to every song and would sing them constantly. My family loved the old movie musicals with Gene Kelly and Fred Astaire. I remember my sister being taken to tap classes and she was hopeless. I was only about 5 and I so wanted to go, but my mum said dancing was for girls!!! We laugh about that now, especially my sister
Reality TV shows for finding a musical star is an interesting point. We’re in a climate where people are reluctant to go to the theatre mainly due to cost, I guess, so these shows definitely help the cause. I know actors who get annoyed by them, but if I was a producer it’s a great opportunity to publicise a show. If the show does well it provides jobs for actors and it’s more likely to with a celebrity in it. Although we’d all prefer to be playing that role instead of someone from I’m-A-Strictlycome-Big-Brother-whatever celeb. It is a business at the end of the day so producers don’t want to take risks just now. I also think they are great entertainment for Saturday night viewing. Just watching people sing is enjoyable but adding the competition is clever. I’m sure my friends will hate me for saying that. Your singing career has taken a new leap, and your touring with Teatro in the states in 2011, how did that come about?
THEATRE
gone all pop/mainstream! Do you think theatre has lost its edge?
Theatre has not lost its edge at all. Musical theatre was originally born out of pop writers of the time such as Gershwin and Porter putting together collections of their songs with a story to string them together. Songs which were being sung in jazz clubs and Tin Pan Alley (which is where they were being written) were making it onto stage through these weak story lines. Of course this developed and people started writing the plot first and songs secondly. Songs from theatre have always been commercial. Look at Somewhere ver the rainbow, Losing my mind that the Pet shop Boys recorded. Barbra Streisand, Jesus Christ Superstar—in fact a lot of Lloyd Webber. Susan Boyle is just another of these. Throughout my career I’ve done Songs from the West End type gigs which used to be Evita, Les Mis, Phantom. But more recently the ones I’ve been doing are songs from Dirty Dancing, Footloose and Mamma Mia. These shows are all made from stringing pop songs together, which is exactly how it all started. Your jazz album collaboration with Nikola Monfort went to number one in the jazz chart back in 2007. Your next album is called Bulletproof. Why the name, and what’s the main direction for this new album? Bulletproof is a completely new venture for me as I’ve only just started recording my own songs. It’s kind of scary putting yourself out there with your own material. Worrying what people will make of it. But I have to not worry about the negative comments, you get used to criticism as a performer as you always get it, constructive or otherwise, you start to build up a resistance against it and not take it personally. So that’s where the title comes from, Bulletproof—thought it was better than thick-skinned! As I’m writing the material for the album I guess it has a theatrical sound to it. That’s what I know and love. Who knows, maybe I’ll link them together and make a show. The plan is to release the album end of 2011 but no date as yet. There is a clip of one of the songs on my website.
Teatro came about when a friend called me to ask if I could fill in for one of the Group who was in a West End show and couldn’t get out for one of the gigs. Teatro is made up of Broadway and West End men who are also working in shows. Most of the time schedules can be moved around this but occasionally they can’t. Luckily, I was free at the time and stood in for him. There were plans for the group to launch in the US in 2011 and I was then asked if I would like to be a replacement. So I’m really excited about this and am preparing for the Links: www.michaelcotton.co.uk January launch in New York. www.teatromusic.com From Teatro to Susan Boyle, theatre has Interview conducted by King Louis 53
B
LIFESTYLE
FOOD & DRINK
Babble – Mayfair Do you want to escape the trappings of gay Soho and mix with the elite of Mayfair? Well Babble maybe your calling. Proudly nestled in Berkeley Square in the heart of London, Babble is described as the ‘new gem of Mayfair’. Two floors of decadent surroundings, with an overall European design and feel. Babble Bar The main bar when you walk in is a warm welcoming of great décor, alluring taste and grandeur. The atmosphere is laidback and informal. Tall tables and large windows offer a glimpse into the heart of Mayfair, admiring the world go by. Down the road is the Louboutin boutique and Bentley garage, so after a spot of lunch you’re always close to the amenities of luxury importance for that bit of high-end shopping. As well as an extensive drinks menu, Babble also has a promising food menu from traditional English favourites to alternative dishes. For starters you could have Garlic Tiger Prawns with tomato & soft herb fondue or Cashew Nuts with sea-salt and cracked black pepper. For a main course; Traditional Beef Lasagne topped with melted cheese and served with a dressed salad or Cumberland Sausages and Mash in a Giant Yorkshire Pud with rich onion gravy. For a
healthier dish try Smoked Mackerel and Beetroot Salad with orange, baby new potatoes and a horseradish, dill & crème fraiche dressing. For a gourmet platter to be shared why not try the Rustic Platter with rustic potato wedges, rosemary and garlic focaccia bread, sticky baby back ribs, crunchy chicken fillets and baby calamari all served with a selection of dips. From a deli board, tasty sandwiches and sweet treats, you’ll be spoilt for choice at Babbles all day menu.
Booth Bar Slip down the main stairs past a menacing crystal chandelier above you, and glare through the regal ornate mirror into an abyss of black. Order at the bar and settle amongst the handsome Mayfair men in suits. Sip that martini within your own privately rented padded booth to kick-start your weekend in absolute style, privacy and exclusivity. Even head down to the Booth Bar after work and soak in that glamour without the Soho queendom and 54
dragfest. Eight individual private booths line the walls of the glamorous Booth Bar all decorated in black cosmopolitan leather with chandeliers hanging daintily from the ceilings and the bar. The Booth Bar is emblazoned with mirrored walls and provides each visitor with that unique VIP experience. The fine wines, cocktails, champagnes and other main drinks are available in both bars with a hearty selection. Why not go for the shared cocktail for £100, like the The Crystal Star. Served in a big glass bowl to be shared with up to 8 people. Bubbly all round: Eristoff vodka, Archers, crème de fraise, cranberry juice and peach purée, topped with Pommery Brut Champagne.
Babble Opening Times: Monday to Wednesday: 12pm - late Thursday: 12pm - 2am Friday: 12pm - 3am Saturday: 5pm - 3am Sunday: CLOSED For more information on Babble, to make a reservation or to find out more about upcoming events visit: www.babble-bar.co.uk or call 020 7758 8255 Written by King Louis
So So Gay
Logos (colour and black and white)
LIFESTYLE
HEALTH & FITNESS
Fitness Revolutions: The History of Exercise Exercise, as a cultural phenomenon isn’t exactly the first thing that comes to mind when we think about revolution or renowned revolutionary acts, but that doesn’t mean to say that there hasn’t been any in its history. Not a great deal is known about its origins or the point in time at which its importance and cultural significance came to prominence. The fact is, exercise has always existed on a subconscious level; if one thinks back to a time of primitive human-kind, man would have been exercising while hunting for his food, though not realising the science behind it and thus the positive effects it had on his body. Fast forward to the 21st century, and everyone knows that chasing prey would have inevitably burned calories and therefore been a form of exercise. On a basic scientific level, human needs to catch prey, prey runs too fast for human, so human has to run faster in order to catch prey. Over time, human becomes faster through persistent running (thus, exercising), and eventually catches prey. Over history, humans have always needed to exercise in order to stay strong and healthy for a myriad of reasons. Hunting has already been given as an example, but it would have also been crucial in activities which require conflict such as war, where training for battle was of huge importance to the armies, and less brutally, the sports and sporting events. In other words, the improvements in physical and mental wellbeing of the soldiers and athletes would come from exercise as a direct result of said training. In Ancient Greece, the notorious Spartan army were considered to be at the peak of physical and mental human form, resulting from rigorous exercise. Such training gave the soldiers the god-like physiques we recognise them for today, something which more than certainly contributed to the obsession with physical attractiveness and vanity that exists in today’s society. It is not known exactly when the first mention of the positive effects of exercise comes from, yet records show that as far back as around 520BC, the Chinese
philosopher Confucious had noted that physical inactivity was contributing to a negative effect on the body and mind. His teachings encouraged his followers to keep active to ward of illness and injury. Other great philosophers from all over the ancient world shared and reiterated this notion over the centuries and in 65BC the Roman philosopher Marcus Cicero famously stated, ‘It is exercise alone that supports the spirits, and keeps the mind in vigour.’ For a long time, humans remained in relatively decent physical and mental form because day to day living necessitated a significant level of activity through manual labour, and thus exercise. As fortified above, the 57
link between moving and working and improving both physically and mentally has always been an obvious one, but it wasn’t really until the 18th century with the coming of the industrial revolution that improvements in science, medicine and technology would begin to explain why this might be the case and how humans could get the optimal results from certain methods and movements. Sadly, at the same time, these advances would also see the implementation of machinery and other equipment in the workplace which would contribute towards a huge decline in physical activity for the general population and the inevitable drop in health. CONTINUED...
B
B
LIFESTYLE
HEALTH & FITNESS
In the early 19th century, a German gymnastic movement was started by a man named Friedrich Jahn. Gymnastic clubs, or Turners, started to form, with a large contingent being GermanAmerican. Interestingly, not only were the Turners athletic, but they were also politically biased. In 1848, after a failed revolution in Gemany, many of these Turners moved to America. The first documented fitness centre was an indoor gymnasium built in 1852 in Hesse, Germany by a man named Adolph Spiess, often hailed as the founder of gymnastics in Germany. In 1851, YMCA had formed in Boston, and with the help of the Turner movement, saw the instalment of several fitness centres in the United States. Within the decade, the YMCA had over 200 branches across the country, all complete with gymnasiums. In 1920s, the popularity of gymnasiums and fitness grew to a height where they started to be implemented in schools, colleges and universities all across America and beyond. Physical Education became compulsory and the importance of health and fitness began to be widespread. By the 1940’s, gyms across the globe were home to entire arsenals of advanced equipment; treadmills, cross-trainers, exercise bikes as well as a whole range of fixed resistance machines, allowing easy access for anyone interested in keeping fit. In 1949, a team led by British epidemiologist, Jerry Morris pioneered a scientific study, and three years later released a report about the correlation between physical health and exercise and its subsequent benefits. It was arguably Morris’ study, along with the introduction of television and the mainstream following it attained in the early 50s, that shaped the health and fitness industry and the importance of exercise as we know it today. With the realisation that fitness now had a direct effect on health, combined with the fact that a combination of technology and poor dietary practices was making people increasingly unhealthy, the fitness industry exploded. More and more people realised that they needed to fight their sedentary lifestyles and start exercising if they wanted to live healthier lives. Since that time, various figures have promoted the benefits of exercise through the media and revolutionised the industry. Jack LaLanne, who is often referred to as the ‘godfather of fitness’, became familiarised himself with the
importance of exercise at a very early age, opened his first gym in 1936 and ended up hosting a TV show which ran for a record breaking 34 years. His gyms were really the inspiration for the ones which exist in modern society today, and he was the first person to develop and manufacture resistance machines, as well as selling home exercise equipment through TV. Since that time, hundreds of gyms, fitness centres and leisure clubs have been established and countless fitness programmes and classes have been created and taught throughout them. The Les Mills empire is a shining example of such an outfit, offering classes such as BodyPump, BodyVive, BodyAttack to name but a few. Gym equipment will also continue to be improved 58
and manufactured, based on our physiologies and physical needs. The last big thing introduced into the fitness industry came from the introduction of the vibration plate in 1999; a piece of equipment that causes rapid involuntary reflex muscle contractions for the user. The selling point is that 10 minutes is equal to 60 minutes of conventional exercise, and thus much less hard work. The claim is certainly controversial, and has led to vibration plates being branded as a gimmick to make money. The matter is still strongly debated, but it does raise an interesting point—what other ‘revolutionary’ products will we see in the future that will help us achieve results in as little time possible? Only time will tell. Written by David Staffell
LIFESTYLE
POLITICS
Revolution to Evolution: The 21st Century Gay Man
B
As gay men in the 21st century we seem to have it all. There is growing recognition of our rights to marry and we can now adopt children. We also see that the corporate world community has rapidly taken a much more pro-gay stance as they learn the increasingly important value of the pink pound. I still can’t help feeling though that not everything is as it should be in Gay London. It has been a long journey to our current state of being since the Stonewall years. When I say Stonewall years, I mean of course the dark days of repression of the 1960’s, and the shining light that was and still is The Stonewall Inn on Christopher Street in New York City. I’ve personally had the pleasure of visiting this bar and share a few drinks with the clientele, some who can vividly recall the night of the Stonewall riots and the proceeding gay rights movement. America was the birthplace of the gay rights movement, but back over the pond in the UK, we picked up the torch with relish! Our own home grown gay rights organisation Stonewall (UK) was given life in 1989 by Sir Ian McKellan and Peter Tatchell, in response and to support the protest’s against Section 28 of the Local Government Act. This section, as some of you may know, stated that the Local Authority ‘could not intentionally promote homosexuality’. This effectively made it illegal for a teacher to say to a pupil that ‘Gay is Okay’ in schools across England. It also made it illegal to promote safe sexual practice amongst gays, as this would be seen as ‘normalising’ homosexuality. This extremely constricting legislation almost certainly contributed to the meteoric rise of HIV infections in the 1980’s. We are very fortunate that Section 28 was repealed in 2003, after intensive and successful lobbying campaigns by Stonewall, amongst other gay and human rights organisations. Another triumph for Stonewall, and its affiliated support networks, was the ground-breaking legalisation of Same Sex Civil partnerships in 2004, this we hope is the first and significant step towards the UK government legalising gay marriage. While NGO’s, such as Stonewall, have made a substantial impact within the political area, they
also have made strides in promoting more tolerance with religious bodies, the Church of England being one of these. This led to the confirmation of the first openly gay bishop, Dr Jeffery John, in 2003. However, this bold step caused a painful rift within the Anglican Church that still exists today. All these actions and campaigns (there are too many to list) by Stonewall and others have helped to shape the current landscape for Gay men and woman to progress to varied positions in equally varied companies/NGO’s/government. If we look to Parliament, a number of gay Ministers throughout the last 14 years or so have sat or sit in the Palace of Westminster. This has brought gay rights to the forefront of politics and into the hallowed halls of power, something that was only dreamed of back in 1960–70’s. The gay rights agenda has not only made strides within the political area but, mainstream media has also increasingly fostered more representations of Gay culture in broadcasting over the last 15 years. For instance, television shows such as Will and Grace, Queer as Folk and Skins portray gay men and their every day existence. While the representations of gay men have increased within mainstream media, unfortunately the portrayal of gay characters featured usually relies heavily on stereotype which depicts gay men as effeminate, shallow and fickle. For all the pluses that we as gay man now enjoy, there are however the negatives. The gay scene has become increasingly clique based, a warren of closed off clubs where if you don’t fit the mould then you don’t belong. The over powering obsession with the body beautiful (before I get letters of complaint I do hit the gym too) is not a healthy one when taken to such extremes. As gay men even though we posses the spending power,
59
are upwardly mobile and sometimes well informed of current issues also seem to lack a sense of maturity, can be extremely superficial and dangerously abuse our bodies. This abuse of the body in particular with recreational drugs, alcohol and sometimes promiscuous unprotected sex, can show a low sense of self-worth and a definite need for our mental maturity to catch up with our physical. There is hope for us to rectify and resolve the negative issues and I am by no means a doomsayer or pouring scorn on the achievements over the last 50 years. These achievements have allowed me to express myself in public and private without fear of imprisonment or harassment. I can commit to a partner of my choosing both legally and emotionally and, if the time is right, raise an adopted child or surrogate of my own. Today’s gay man has much to give society and much more to bring to our colourful and vibrant culture and social standing. We are fortunate as a group to have a number of positive role models to follow, be they in business, entertainment or politics. If the later part of the 20th century encompassed a revolution within the gay community and the acceptance of the general public of our right to live our lives, then the 21st is definitely about the evolution of our mindset, only then can we truly accept ourselves. Written by Adam Lucy
B A very English Ghost Story LIFESTYLE
MOTORS
A scene from an English gothic novel would appear to be the setting. An invitation to an Edwardian mansion set in the sleepy backwaters of deepest Derbyshire. Late High tea is served on arrival. The high ceiling parlour complete with heavy thick draperies framing the windows and dark wood panelling make the room claustrophobic. The ever so gentle tinkle of ornate china teacups as Earl Grey is poured. The hint of lavender flowers and the merest suggestion of camphor permeates the room. The house-maid says, ‘Piece of cake, sir?’ It suddenly occurred to me ala gothic style that this would be the ideal place for a poisoner to offer you his deadly confection as you innocently partook of tea. It needed a ghost to complete the illusion of an old country house melodrama in the grand gothic style. Indeed, as I gazed out of the windows I saw a Ghost in English White. However, I was not afraid because this particular Ghost was a wonderfully comforting sight. Parked on the gravel drive the Rolls Royce Ghost in its evocative English White paintwork had all the gravitas of an Edwardian gentleman – completely at ease, confident but not brash, sophisticated but never affected. Scrupulous dress sense allied to slight understatement. This Ghost was eloquent without saying a word. Whatsmore it was my indulgence to drive, to experience and transport myself to another level of existence. I took one slow sip of the tea, said a
rather languid ‘No’ to the house-maid and her probably poisoned piece of cake and left the lounge to get acquainted with this very real ghost poised on the gravel. My shoes seemed to make an enormous noise on the gravel as I approached the ghost, so much so that for a second or two I actually slowed down. And therein lies one of the great secrets of the Rolls Royce Ghost, it actually changes your behaviour and slows down time in an alchemical way. For once the world is not dictating to you its harsh timetable; you with the aura of the Ghost surrounding you are quite suddenly way, way above the hoi poli and viewing life from a new perspective. A perspective of grand advantage, of being totally calm yet vibrantly alive and active. There is no other private
60
transport on four wheels that can engender such responses from the frail mortal. Now I know why Caesar felt like a god in his unique chariot of gold. The Rolls Royce Ghost has the same effect but perhaps like the Roman emperors one should always have someone close by to whisper occasionally in your ear, ‘Remember you are mortal!’ just to keep the balance. Not that purchasers of the Ghost would be unduly concerned about such esoteric matters because having the wherewithal to hand over £200,500 for privilege of owning such a vehicle is an indicator that their lives are nicely in order thank you. Billionaire Arab oil magnates, foreign dictators, bankers spending some of their ‘performance bonuses’ and even lottery winners might muddy the
LIFESTYLE clear waters regarding individual esoteric values of some buyers but one still likes to believe that something of the traditional Rolls Royce values of excellence and impeccable taste might just rub off a tab onto even the most unlikeliest of purchasers. More svelte than its stable mate the Phantom and altogether exuding a more youthful air, the Ghost manages to impress as much by sheer style and road presence rather than relying upon gigantic stature. This in turn translates into a vehicle that is easier to drive and manoeuvre and, dare I say it, park than other leviathans of luxury. That said the Ghost has impressive proportions and anyone not used to this magnitude will take time to handle it with confidence. The Ghost invokes a whole ensemble of design intelligences most clearly gaining inspiration in contemporary furniture, architecture and yachts but also in the spirit of the 1930s—and all that it entailed most prominently a sense of endeavour. The Ghost spends seven days being painted and polished to perfection. Five stages are required for the Ghost body. First a phosphate electro-coat is applied to protect against corrosion, then a layer of primer, a colour coat and finally two coats of clear lacquer. The body is hand-sanded between each layer and once the final coat is applied it is hand-polished for five hours. English White is the colour most appropriate to the Ghost because it sets off the chrome highlights to perfection. The dominant front grille with the Lady of Ecstasy epitomises sublime excellence of design and is a recognisable emblem of power, authority, style and wealth across the globe. Apart from the visual feast of the external style of the Ghost, there awaits inside the cabin a peacefulness and detachment from the cares of the world. Flawless leather is an absolute requirement for the interior of a Rolls-Royce. The leather is sourced from bulls raised in pastures free of barbed wire, ensuring that there are fewer imperfections in the leather. At least eight hides are used for an interior. The driver’s seat sits slightly higher than all the other seats to give a truly ‘command’ view of the road ahead. The hide upholstery is superbly complimented by real wood veneers with the natural burrs and grains chosen for their intricacy and interest. Only veneer from one tree is used in any car. Instrumentation is refrained and not too busy as in most inferior luxury cars.
There is a high degree of sophistication in the interior design that takes a while to discover. Observe elegant, frosted lamps and chrome door handles, traditional violin key switches and eyeball air vents, frosted white dials and refined instrumentation. Deep-pile carpets can be complemented by optional lambs-wool floor mats. A rather distinctly English touch is found housed within the front doors, namely integrated Teflon-coated umbrellas for those unpredictable showers. Individual lounge seating is offered as an alternative to the standard lounge configuration. This allows the addition of a massage function and also perforated leather for a cooling stream of air from the seat surface. Auxiliary rear climate control allows the passenger to regulate the temperature of the air on their side of the car, without intrusion on the other. Quite naturally a cool box with interior illumination and integrated champagne glasses is also available. Alan Sheppard, interior designer was very serious when he said, ‘The Ghost is designed to be an escape from the outside world’. The comfort levels are appropriate for urban jungle sorties with the emphatic noise dampening technology effectively cocooning driver and passengers from any intrusion from the outside world. Engine noise is simply and somewhat eerily absent unless you really hard foot it down on the accelerator and even then it becomes only a faint growl like some far-away hound related to the Baskerville’s estate. I drove the Ghost and the experience is quite shocking. You realise how noisy, uncomfortable and fatiguing it is when driving anything other than a Rolls Royce. The solidity of the Ghost (despite its name) is the major first
61
MOTORS
B
impression—this is a heavy and large vehicle but it handles with precision and composure whether at high speed or in a city gridlock situation. It is not a sports car but you can certainly push it hard and it will put a contented smile on your face with its engaging character. The fact that it can out-perform many sports cars is indicative of its quality and power. It handles bends at speed with the utmost distain and without any undue body roll or bad manners. It has to be said that purists are agitated at the use of BMW suspension and chassis refinements but I find the union of British savoir-faire and Teutonic mechanical excellence most fruitful and really a natural progression. Under the bonnet is a new 6.6 litre V12 unique to the marque, delivering 563 bhp with, as you might expect, quite extraordinary performance figures for such a large vehicle. Consider 0-60 mph in just 4.7 seconds and on to an electronically governed top speed of 155mph. With 780 Nm of torque available at just 1,500rpm, delivery of power is immediate and extremely smooth. Power is transmitted through an 8-speed, shift-by-wire, automatic ZF gearbox. A power reserve gauge on the fascia replaces the more common rev counter. Fuel consumption is 20.8 mpg but will be of no interest to owners. In a wicked world we need the Rolls Royce Ghost to remind us of our dreams, our aspirations and perhaps of our faults. When you see a Ghost glide past then best to whisper, ‘Remember you are mortal!’ Written by Franklin Bishop Price: £200,500 www.rolls-roycemotorcars.com
BT
LIFESTYLE
TECHNOLOGY
echnology is ever-changing by the second, so we have it covered for your everyday, on the go, busy lifestyle—until the next must-have comes around. From paying for that higher purchase item to the look on your tired face after a busy day, to working on the go, CONQUER has it all sussed out for you. This spring, it’s all about chic gadgets that will put you at the forefront, among friends and work colleagues alike, with stylish, advanced technology.
Dunhill Biometric Wallet
This is primarily a glorious two-fingered salute to pickpockets everywhere, which is reason enough to purchase a wallet with a lock that can only be opened when met with the owner's fingerprints. However, when you consider that it's made by Dunhill and a staggering technological feat, this carbon filter contraption ticks all the right style boxes. Price: £525 www.dunhill.com
Slendertone Male Face
On first glance this technological wonder looks more like a dungeon torture device, but it’s a new muscle toner to help firm and tighten skin for an all over youthful appearance. Think of it as a gym workout for your face. The electro muscle stimulation is a natural remedy to help fight the signs of ageing, toning and lifting the face. Used five times a week for 20 minutes, 94% of men said they saw a dramatic, firmer complexion. Price: £300 www.harrods.com
Apple iPad 2 Here it is, the newer, slimmer, faster, ten-hour battery powered driven marvel. Apple never fails to impress. From the look to the feel, this masterpiece in your hand will replace your old iPad a hundred times over, with two cameras and a perfect, crystal clear high-resolution display. You can purchase magnetic smart covers which make the ipad go to sleep or awaken. At work or at play, this new iPad 2 will put you from geek to chic. Price: £399–659 www.apple.com Written by King Louis 62
LIFESTYLE
INTERIORS
Allê – Revolutionary Interior Design It's time to re-style your home and bring a hint of colour and modern design this spring season from Brazilian interiors brand, Allê. Twelve international designers make up the brand, which work on creating innovative products from recyclable material Methacrylate (Plexiglas), a raw material that can be shaped from pure monomer to give strength and durability to their products increasing the longevity of the likes of their lighting and table pieces. From the design, colour and robustness, these unique and stylish items are long-lasting, flawless in shape and in an array of colours and styles, will add distinction to any living room, bedroom or home. Allê—a fusion of elegant contemporary design and quality.
Tavolo Price: £410 – £555 Tavolino Price: £255 – £285 Both available directly from Allê
Libri Available in Olive, Orange and any other colours available directly from Allê Price: £332
63
B
B
LIFESTYLE
INTERIORS
Side lighting table Price: £4560
Fetiche tables (mirror and black) are available from Bouf Price: £102 – £112
Black Ligero coffee table Available in Black, Crystal and Red Price: £192
Table with vase Price: £3237
Links: www.bouf.com www.alledesign.com.br Written by King Louis
64
waste 0%
100% BRAZIL Select ranges available from stockists, www.alledesign.com.br including Harrods, Selfridges, Chaplins +44 208 5880632 UK and the Silvia Nayla Gallery
B
LIFESTYLE
PROPERTY
The Royal Getaway
Looking to invest in a stunning new property this spring? We bring you a taste of the best global offerings that will make you feel and exemplify the life of new royalty. We have chosen 8 places of absolute luxurious magnitude to tantalise yourself away from the depressions of the big city. Palazzo Versace Dubai (pictured above) An uber-luxurious development situated in the prestigious waterside address of Dubai creek. Palazzo Versace provides a collection of 169 private residences and 213 super-luxury hotel suites with furnishings designed by Versace. Once finished, it will feature several dining experiences, a health spa, gym, ballroom, convention facilities and Versace boutique—all set in landscaped grounds. www.palazzoversace.ae Maldives (pictured above) 12 Blues Resort & Spa offers a rare opportunity to acquire ownership in an exclusive island hideaway in Raa Atoll in the Indian Ocean. A 40-minute sea-plane journey from Male, is a ten-acre teardrop shaped coral island with over two kilometres of untouched pristine beachfront. Comprised of 33 water villas and 7 beach villas, prices start from around £1.2 million. www.12Blues.com
Lake Como (pictured left) Many of the one-off and best located properties in Lake Como never make it to the public market, but exchange hands privately. Villa Peduzzi was built in 1909 and still retains original art nouveau and frescos. Once restored, there will be three 4-bedroom high-spec apartments, each offering impressive views and set in three acres of mature grounds which ensure considerable privacy. Priced from £1.3 million. If you’re feeling really flush, why not buy the whole place for £5.9 million. www.ultissimo.com 66
LIFESTYLE
PROPERTY
Swiss Alps (pictured right) If you’re longing for some Alpine chic, head over to Andermatt in the Swiss Alps, a newly launched development (and carbon free resort) two hours from Zurich. It will include six hotels (The Chedi leading the way, to be completed in 2013), 25 private villas, 490 apartments, 18hole golf course, sports centre and modernised ski area. Over 30 world-class architects will be employed to design the properties. Prices from just under £10,000 per square metre. www.andermatt-swissalps.ch
B
The Henson (pictured below) The Henson is located on Camden Lock, a stone’s throw from Camden Market, Primrose Hill and Regents Park. A Londonewcastle development, the building’s original façade fronts directly onto Regents Canal. The Henson (previously Jim Henson’s Creature Shop) comprises 46 apartments and a 24-hour concierge service. Prices start at £450,000 for a onebed, all the way up to £5 million for the duplex penthouse. www.thehenson.co.uk Yoo Berlin (pictured above) Global design brand, Yoo, has launched its first project in the heart of Berlin, offering 86 suites, penthouses and 1–3 bedroom apartments. Properties in the ten-storey building on the Spree river-front in Mitte will feature Yoo inspired by Starck interiors. Designed by Berlin architect, Eike Becker ‘Yoo Berlin’ will be located in the hub of the city’s thriving arts and entertainment scene and will have a signature ‘Yoo inspired by Starck’ designed concierge lobby as well as a spa, bar, café and an outdoor ‘Atrium Lounge’. Prices start from around £231,000. www.yooberlin.com
Dubrovnik Riviera (pictured left) Just 15 minutes from the old town, overlooking the Adriatic Sea with full resort amenities (5-star hotel, marina, three pools, spa and sports club). The Dubrovnik Sun Gardens will present owners with the opportunity to immerse themselves in Croatian living. Properties are designed in a light and contemporary style and a 2-bedroom residence with panoramic sea views will set you back around £475,000. www.dubrovniksungardens.com
The Lancasters (pictured right) Launched in June 2010, The Lancasters comprises 75 apartments and two town houses built behind a retained traditional stucco façade. This is the only revival project of this scale on the market. The Grade II-listed exterior has been retained and fronts a range of stunning apartments which have high ceilings, traditional fireplaces and Victorian-style cornicing modelled on original 1850s architecture. The first phase of apartments, now released for sale, are priced between £2 million and £20 million. www.thelancastershydepark.com
Written by Nicole Rapaport 67
B
LIFESTYLE
TRAVEL
King of the Castle Become a monarch in your own right and visit some of Europe’s grandest castles, palaces, forts and hides, which have opened their doors to the public in recent years. BALFOUR CASTLE
These days it’s not just the likes of William and Kate who are entitled to sleep like royalty. Laying their locks down under a canopy held aloft by four posters, their cheeks against 1000 thread count Egyptian cotton, in a room where blue bloods have slept for generations. Over the last few years many residences once owned by members of various European courts have opened their doors to ‘the people’; so now there are many places to fulfil your regal fairytales as man of the manor, or king of your own castle.
LANGLEY CASTLE Henry the VIII may not have been the most graceful of men, but his tastes certainly ran well into opulence, so consider Amberley Castle on his qualified recommendation. He’d probably enjoy a spa bath; now featuring in all of the 19 individually decorated bedroom suites and appreciate the fine fabrics everything is draped in. Amberley belonged to Elizabeth I, Charles II visited often, and Cromwell had a jolly good go at breaking though its defences during the Civil War. An impressive moat and walls 60-feet high topped with crenelated battlements and two tonnes worth of oak portcullis will suit those in search of kingly pleasures.
Add to that vista peacocks on the lawns and coloured lights in the haunted tower, then augment your stay with a meal in King Charles I Private Dining room. Amberley is less than two hours drive from London, and even closer to Brighton and the coast, handy for opera at Glyndeborne, theatre at Chichester, antique shopping in Petworth and Arundel and racing at Goodwood. Ask for a room in the main building, as the ones in the tower can be a windy walk to get to. Thornbury Castle has also laid down hospitality for Henry VIII. He and Anne Boleyn shared a Tudor bed here, the Duke’s bedchamber featuring a four poster bed in red and gold, and is one of the 27 available to hotel guests today. Some of this Tudor castle’s period features have been replaced by more modern conveniences but the gardens are original, as are the ornate carved ceilings and huge hearths. Most rooms have beautiful tapestries on the walls, several have coronet, or four poster beds and the Tower room has 24 carat gilding
CHATEAU DE LA BOURDAISIERE
68
BICKLING TOWER and silk wall hangings. At around £500 a night to stay in Henry and Anne’s suite, this is probably the thriftiest way to get into a royal bedchamber. A prince wouldn’t normally trump aking, but in the case of the prince being young, strong and carrying your bags into the château he owns—which looks like the dolls house of Versailles—you may rethink your order of ascension. At the Château de la Bourdaisière, this is the sort of welcome you can expect from the friendly Broglies brothers who own the château and also just happen to be princes. The oldest parts of this château date from the 15th Century, but it was given its current, glorious form in the 16th century, when it was owned by the mistress of François I. Naturally the grandest room in the château is the Chambre du roi, decorated in mesmerising red velvet, from the canopy bed to the silk drapes, but there are two other apartments and 11 other rooms to choose from. The 125 acres of park grounds have provided the backdrop for many a royal intrigue or tryst and will provide you with your own grounds for love. There are many other wonderfully, form-
LIFESTYLE
TRAVEL
with four-poster canopied beds, and all with added opulent feature bathrooms.
CAMP FERNSTEINSEE over-function built French castles that make for fantasy residence perfection. The Château de Mercues, is a prime example. Mounted on a rocky outcrop overlooking the river and surrounded by its own vineyards, for seven centuries this Cinderella-style castle was the summer home of the Counts and Bishops of Cahors, who evidently knew how to live. Beyond the splendour of the six very individual suites—one has a roof that opens out to the sky, another a bronze sundial inlaid into the floor—is the splendour of Château de Mercues’ table. The vin from their own vineyard and foie gras from local farmers was good enough for the Cahors, and will be good enough for even finickiest of foodies. British castles may lack the grace of the French, but they lack none of the legacy. Langley Castle looks like it was built by a very artistic Lego practitioner. Dashingly tall and square, with only the flourishes essential for a true English blue blood and arranged in an ‘H’ shape with four corner towers, it was built by Sir Thomas de Lucy in approximately 1350 for the Barons of Tynedale. There are nine rooms in the castle decked out in pure ‘olde worlde’ style and luxury, most
Saddell Castle was designed more for business than romance. But its location is very romantic and sometimes there’s nothing like a stronghold for making you feel amorous. This 16th Century castle suffered a lot of attempted sackings, mostly by marauding Campbells and English raiders, but in the last few decades it’s been far more welcoming as a holiday rental sleeping up to eight— complete with dishwasher as well as cracking fireplace—and was used in Paul McCartney’s ‘Mull of Kintyre’ music video. If the idea of having a family seat for your own friends or family for the week or the weekend appeals, windblown and spectacular Balfour Castle, is a seat to be proud of, with room for 18 guests. The owners, sadly no longer the Balfours, share with you their gallery, library, conservatory, chapel, drawing and dining rooms, all packaged into a pale grey Gothic style building of rounded turrets and towers. This castle is in a really remote spot (it is a 20 minute ferry ride from the nearest town) but there’s plenty to do beyond relaxing in the drawing room. Activities include watching or shooting wild fowl, clay pigeon shooting, fishing, tennis, or even receive a cooking lesson from the world class chef who’ll be feeding you and your party. This is how the other half live. Ballyportry Castle is an Irish seat and testament to a time when an Irishman’s home really was his castle. Ballyportry has stood solitary and unchanged on this Mullaghmore cliff top for the last 500 years, huge fireplaces on the inside
INSIDE THE CHATEAU DE LA BOURDAISIERE keeping the family, flagstones and thick friendly beams warm. The addition of modern lighting and central heating has made it that bit more comfortable for the eight people it can now sleep, and while it doesn’t have the opulence of some of the other castles mentioned here, its pared back décor is simple and comfortable. And what if one has aspirations of royalty, but one doesn’t quite yet have the budget for it? One need not despair, Camp Fernsteinsee is a campsite on the grounds of Schloss Fernsteinsee, built by none other than the Bavarian King and famed fairytale castle builder, Ludwig II. Fernsteinsee is now a four star hotel, but on its grounds are 125 sheltered and secluded camping pitches. Ludwig was probably the type to have slept out here so that he could drift off to sleep to the view of his perfect, precious mirrored lake in the moonlight—now that’s an impressive canopy to sleep under. Links: www.amberleycastle.co.uk www.thornburycastle.co.uk www.labourdaisiere.com/en www.chateaudemercues.com www.langleycastle.com www.balfourmembers.com www.ballyportry.ie www.fernsteinsee.at
CHATEAU DE MERCUES
By Kat Parr Mackintosh 69
B
City Collection
Equity ownership in a new portfolio of 120 stylish apartments in the world’s most vibrant cities
The Hideaways Club is a global property company managing two international investment Funds - a luxury villa and a city apartment collection. Following on from the success of the first Fund, the Classic Collection, The Hideaways Club is now launching the City Collection – a portfolio of 120 fully serviced luxury apartments located all over the world, including New York, Paris, London, Miami, Florence, Venice, Barcelona, Prague, Istanbul and Vienna. Created for people with an international lifestyle, business or pleasure, the City Collection provides Members with a new way to enjoy an unrivalled city experience.
Founder equity shares are now available on a first-in basis. Investment from £65,000 to £120,000. T: +44 (0) 20 7824 9940 E: city@thehideawaysclub.com W: www.thehideawaysclub.com This financial promotion has been approved by Smith & Williamson Corporate Finance Limited, 25 Moorgate London EC2R 6AY, which is authorised and regulated by the Financial Services Authority, for the purposes of section 21 Financial Services and Markets Act 2000 in the United Kingdom. The price or value of, or income from, investments can fall as well as rise and an investor may get back less than he invested. You may have difficulty selling this investment at a reasonable price and in some circumstances it may be difficult to sell it at any price. Do not invest in this unless you have carefully thought about whether you can afford it and whether it is right for you. Investment in this scheme is restricted to certified high net worth or sophisticated investors. Evidence of this certification will be required before detailed information can be provided to you.
Advertise with us
Unlocking a New Luxury Doorway...
ADVERTISING@CONQUERMAGAZINE.CO.UK WWW.CONQUERMAGAZINE.CO.UK