La Rioja, its vineyards and wines
La Rioja, its vineyards and wines
First edition, 2018 © Gobierno de La Rioja, 2018 Regional Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock and the Environment Prado Viejo, 62 26071 Logroño. La Rioja. Spain T. +34 941 291 358 cuadernodecampo@larioja.org www.larioja.org/agricultura © Texts, the stated authors © Photographs and illustrations, the stated authors © Cover photograph, Sergio Aja © Photograph p. 8, Miguel Ángel Robredo Translations: TRINOR Graphic design and layout: Lles Printing: Gráficas Ochoa ISBN: 978-84-8125-688-8 Legal registration nº: LR 361-2018 Printed in Spain No part of this work, including the general design and the cover design, may be copied, reproduced, stored or transmitted in any manner or by any means whatsoever, without the prior written consent of the copyright holders.
TAB L E O F CON T E N TS
PRESENTATION .................................................................... 9
7. The repose of a wine ....................................................... 92 The barrel as a quality factor in ageing Rioja reds
MEMORIES
1. The time that saw the birth of Rioja .............................. 10
Juana Martínez García VISIONS
A history of a wine and a region up to the early 20th century Santiago Ibáñez Rodríguez
8. A monologue by a wine vat .......................................... 108 About the vineyards of La Rioja and the men who tend them and make wine from them
2. Nonagenarian Rioja ........................................................ 26
Emilio Barco Royo
A journey through the history of the Denominación de Origen Calificada Jesús Javier Alonso Castroviejo
9. Numbers, vineyards and barrels ................................... 124 The economy of the Rioja wine industry Mª Cruz Navarro Pérez and Emilio Barco Royo
THE VINEYARD
10. The guarantee of a name ............................................. 142 3. Anatomy of the vine ....................................................... 40
The Control Board. Quality control
Origin, morphology, vegetative and
in the field and in the winery
reproductive cycles, and varieties
José Luis Lapuente Sánchez
Fernando Martínez de Toda Fernández 11. Understanding, applying, improving ......................... 156 4. Monitoring the vineyard ................................................ 54 Evaluating and managing the vineyard
Winemaking research and innovation in La Rioja José Miguel Martínez Zapater
Javier Tardáguila 12. Rioja universe ............................................................. 168 5. In the field ....................................................................... 64 Irrigation, fertilisation and soil maintenance techniques
Unique in its style, diverse in its expression Juan Bautista Chávarri Mardones
Enrique García-Escudero Domínguez 13. Itineraries through La Rioja ....................................... 182 THE WINERY
Landscape and wineries in wine tourism Luis Vicente Elías Pastor
6. From the grape to the wine ............................................ 76 Technical aspects on making Rioja wines José Hidalgo Togores
PR E SEN TAT I ON
The book you are holding offers a tour of the different components
The journey continues with an in-depth look at the vineyards
of the world of wine in La Rioja, guided by different experts, each
of La Rioja and the people who grow grapes and make wine, the
a specialist in the field, who help understand the importance that
best exponents of how diverse and deep-rooted this activity is in
grape growing and winemaking have had in shaping what today is
the region. Now it is time to look at the figures behind Rioja wine,
La Rioja. It also enables a better understanding of production, vini-
its production structures and its sales to understand the size of the
fication and quality requirements, providing keys to the success of a
sector. And all of it is guaranteed by a name, Rioja, supported by
sector which is the mainstay of the region’s economy.
the Control Board, applying the strictest standards to ensure quality
In La Rioja, to speak of vineyards and wines is to speak of his-
and traceability.
tory, culture, tradition, landscape, nature, life, economics... There
But the key to success is not based solely on tradition. It is also
are many wine regions in the world, but few where this universe so
due to major investments in development and technology by grow-
permeates the whole of society.
ers and winemakers and to intense research work. Here, the Institute
Through the various chapters in this book you will learn about
of Grapevine and Wine Sciences plays an essential role, particularly
the history of the vine and wine in La Rioja, how it came to be con-
in dealing with the great challenges that face viticulture, such as
solidated as one of its main economic activities, where the Control
climate change.
Board played, plays and will continue to play a fundamental role.
The tour continues with an explanation of what this land is capa-
Later, you will delve into the understanding of the vine, its morphol-
ble of offering, many very diverse wines that nonetheless have points
ogy and physiology, getting to know the native grape varieties of a
in common that readily identify them as Rioja. It is undoubtedly an
region that staunchly defends its identity. You will continue on this
interesting feature that makes one seek a deeper understanding of
journey examining the techniques employed in managing the vine
this region.
to get wines of extraordinary quality. You will see how the character-
And now comes the end of the journey, with some notes on La
istics of the soil where the vines grow and its proper management are
Rioja’s wine tourism opportunities. Here, vineyard landscapes and
key factors in wine quality. When the time comes to pick the grapes
wineries go hand in hand with wine culture to provide unique des-
and take them to the winery, you will learn about wine-making
tinations to be enjoyed with the five senses.
techniques that are traditional in La Rioja. Then comes an essential
I would like to express my deepest gratitude to the thirteen authors
stage, oak-ageing, where the prestige of our wines is consolidated. It
who sign the papers in this book, which I think is a must for both
is not by chance that Rioja has the largest number of barrels of any
wine sector professionals and all those who want to know a little
wine region in the world, 1.3 million in fact.
more about a land that is intimately tied to its vineyards and wines.
ÍÑIGO NAGORE FERRER Regional Minister of Agriculture, Livestock and the Environment
MEMORIES
Topographic chart of the fertile plain of the river Najerilla and the Yalde with abundant vineyards. Ministry of Culture. Archives of the Royal Chancellery of Valladolid
ďœąďœ°
1 The time that
saw the birth of Rioja A history of a wine and a region up to the early 20th century Santiago Ibáñez Rodríguez Doctor in History
M E M O R I E S / 1 . T H E T I M E T H AT S AW T H E B I R T H O F R I O J A
1. I N T ROD U C T I ON As the vine and wine arrived in La Rioja, they remained in the re-
with them, and even more so when they adopted the Roman way
gion. In a process not without its difficulties, it managed to occupy
of life and abandoned beer drinking. For almost a century and a
an ever-larger space on cultivated land, pleased consumers more and
half, from the conquest to the time of Caesar, the wine drunk came
more and ended up being one of the most important sectors of the
from Italy. It was then replaced by wine from Tarraco and Barcino
economy of La Rioja.
(Laietania) and, in our area, it was the type produced in La Rioja.
In La Rioja, wine was consumed first and then vines arrived. The
Given that wine, together with oil, was protected by specific laws
alcoholic drink of the local native population was beer, and they
and was also an expensive item, it was initially bought by the local
learned of wine thanks to the colonising cultures of the Mediter-
elite. Later, when the region was incorporated into the Empire and
ranean (Phoenicians, Greeks and Carthaginians), who introduced
the acreage used for vineyards increased, wine consumption extend-
it commercially via the coasts around the 8 -9 centuries BCE.
ed to different social classes, reaching the general population and
However, wine was first
slaves. Here, as in Rome, wine and its production and trade was a
known in La Rioja on
symbol of social prestige and it consolidated the domination of the
a large scale in the 2
nd
most powerful. It had high alcohol content and had to be watered
century BCE, through
down, honey was usually added and it was often drunk warm. In
the Roman legionnaires
many cases it was even linked to prophecies and the gods, and its
during the conquest of
consumption led to people losing their inhibitions.
th
Iron billhook from Contrebia
th
Hispania. The Romans
The route that vines took in La Rioja was different to that of wine.
later brought vines with
Vines required the legal incorporation of the region into the Roman
them. Recent studies have
Empire, municipalisation of the territory, setting up of the Roman
claimed that native Vitis
system of property and intensive exploitation of the land, construc-
vinifera already existed in
tion of Roman roads across the region and development of large
La Rioja, although there
population centres. Vines also represented civilisation. The region’s
Leucade.
is no evidence that it was
full incorporation into the Roman Empire led to the systematic and
2nd century BCE
cultivated, that wine was
authorised growing of vines in La Rioja in the first century BCE.
to 1st century CE.
obtained from it or that
At the same time as the region obtained Roman citizenship, ag-
it had considerable social
ricultural and industrial activities became highly developed around
value.
the cities (Gracchurris, Calagurris and Vareia). Large domains were
Museo de La Rioja
Grape growing and winemaking, trading and drinking occurred
also built along the Ebro valley and Mediterranean agriculture was
when what today is La Rioja was incorporated into the Roman Em-
fully implemented, both in terms of the species grown and of the
pire. The Romans imposed their agricultural model based on wheat,
techniques and tools used. The land was worked using slave labour
vines and olives and, thanks to the singular characteristics of this
and aiming at maximum profits so that owners could accumulate
region for vine growing, this activity prospered and became a part
wealth. Since their origins, vines, together with olives, were a key
of the land, feeding the habits and cultural heritage of the people
instrument for capitalisation, thanks to the fact that wine and oil
who lived here. The process was slow and unequal and took several
always had to be bought with money.
centuries.
Potteries gradually appeared in La Rioja near the vineyards, lead-
The Romans arrived in the region between the 3rd and 2nd centu-
ing to the construction of wineries, storage tanks, presses and vats.
ries BCE and wine was consumed immediately, initially just by the
By the 2nd century, except for the arrival of some highly prestigious
Romans themselves, soon after by people who had relations with
wines, regional consumption was completely covered with wine pro-
them and later by local people who traded, fought or simply lived
duced within the region.
ďœąďœ˛
Santiago Ibáñez Rodríguez
Fragments of mould with grape motifs from Arenzana de Arriba. Late 1st century, first half of 2nd century CE. Museo Najerillense
Roman vessel from La Maja find in Pradejón. 1st & 2nd centuries CE. Museo de La Rioja
Representation of vine leaves and the eternal drunk in the chapter house of the Monastery of Santa María del Salvador de Cañas. Cañas, La Rioja. Charo Díez
Santiago Ibáñez Rodríguez
That what when the real history of the wine that bears La Rioja’s
was an essential part of the Eucharistic celebration and taking bread
name started. It was also the time when Rome laid down the basis
and wine in the communion was usual up to the middle of the 12th
for what would become wineries in La Rioja, which included specif-
century. The concept, use and purposes of wine changed against An-
ic premises or cella vinaria, the use of wicker baskets to collect the
tiquity but, and this is the important thing, its use involved grape
grapes, the use of vats and the torcularium (press), lacus (fermenta-
growing and the conversion of grapes into wine. Even more, the
tion pool), and storage in specific, partially-buried vessels (ordolia),
clergy extended vines to all the lands along the Pilgrim’s Way to San-
where malolactic fermentation took place.
tiago and generalised wine as a drink for all people regardless of their th
The development of the vine and wine continued until the 9
social or economic status. The adaptation of vines in our region,
century according to the ups and downs of the local weather and the
at latitudes and altitudes much higher than those we are used to
commercial interests of owners in covering the local, urban and re-
nowadays, the selection process of the best varieties and the region-
gional consumption its production was aimed at. Considering that
al particularities adopted by the plants are intimately linked to the
the large landowners in the Ebro valley maintained an agricultural
ministry of the Christian Church. The Church also played a clear
production that was basically monetarist and allocated a good part
role in the propagation of certain grape varieties and in the making
of their land to market gardens, olive groves and vineyards, cereal
and quality of vine, together with a taste for bitterer flavours. The
production always had a hard time. In Ancient times cereal always
‘complicity’ of monks, and the clergy in general, with the vine and
predominated but, for the first time in this region, there was a de-
wine was such that they became a daily presence, present in art and
bate about whether enough cereals should be sowed to feed the pop-
constantly appearing in documents, illustrating codes, sculptures
ulation and prevent hunger or, on the other hand, if the profitable
and even in the cenotaph of San Millán.
income from oil and wine should prevail. While the level of welfare
The evolution of the vine and wine in the Middle Ages was affect-
achieved through the pax romana was maintained, the interests of
ed by the presence of the Muslims and the later Reconquest (from
the winemakers did not clash with regional supply or the interest
714 up to the first quarter of the 12th century). The Muslims would
of smallholders.
control each area differently and with a different degree of Islami-
Agriculture started to change in the 3rd century, with the decline of
sation, and in general with laws and prohibitions that were more
the Roman Empire: roads became unsafe, markets started to collapse
lax than those applied in Rioja Alta and Rioja Media. Both Muslim
and the wine trade became something of an exception. At the same
chroniclers (Ahmad al-Râzî, Ibn Hayyan) and the cartularies of Al-
time, the numerous villae located around La Rioja assumed greater
belda and San Millán speak of the importance of agriculture in La
role in a process of ruralisation that ended up imposing an economic
Rioja and the key role played by grapevines: without distinction
autarchy. The presence of barbarian peoples in the early 5 century
between Muslims or Christians and in not very propitious places.
th
increased the sense of insecurity and also led to the digging of caves along river banks for habitation. This gave rise, in some cases, to the appearance of hermitages that later assumed great importance (Felices, Millán), and it also led to less interest in grape growing, which declined strongly and cereals for bread-making became more important. Wine production and consumption fell and was restricted to the local level, as a luxury item and even as a currency. While political and economic factors and the fear of shortages led to a reduction in the surface area used for vineyards, and the wine trade struggled, a new opposing force would strengthen the role of the vine in the Middle Ages in the region of La Rioja: Christianity. The new religion appeared in the region in the 3rd century and, by the 4th century, there was already an ecclesiastical organisation with its seat in Calahorra. Christian symbols and liturgy meant that wine
M E M O R I E S / 1 . T H E T I M E T H AT S AW T H E B I R T H O F R I O J A
Even so, the insecurity felt at the time, with a changing border,
in greater quantities in Nájera and the surrounding area. Reports
a certain degree of depopulation and the rejection of alcohol con-
in the 12th century continue to highlight the abundance of land
sumption by Islam all led to grape growing receding.
covered with vines, although this decreased in the 13th century in
As the Reconquest advanced a certain stability was achieved and
favour of more wheat production. At the time, there was a certain
there was a more systematic occupation and use of land, with more
tendency whereby the larger monasteries preferred land for wheat
cereal and wine production to the detriment of wood. References to
and left grape growing to private individuals. It is true that these big
majuelos (new vines) increased. A process began that tended to unify
monasteries were located in Somontano and that the urban devel-
the agricultural landscape to give rise to pagos: cereals next to cereals,
opment along the river Ebro gradually acquired more importance in
vines next to vines. The drivers of the new process were, above all,
the agricultural scenario of La Rioja.
the big monasteries: San Millán de la Cogolla, San Prudencio de
In Haro, Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Nájera, Viguera, Logroño
Monte Laturce, San Martín de Albelda… A Mediaeval monastery
and, later, Calahorra, populations and resources were concentrated
included accommodation, a church, a larder, a pharmacy, a library,
with historical rights, privileges and fairs. Initially, these municipali-
a workshop… as well as a granary store and a bodega (winery). Wine
ties had simple socio-economic structures and weak political and tax
was produced, sold and drunk, was part of the diet of the monas-
control, although they gradually approved by-laws that also regulat-
teries and its consumption was described in rules. As time went by,
ed all agricultural activity, including vineyards and wine. The dates
excessive drinking was criticised.
of the harvest were determined, when and how to plant majuelos, the
During this period, both through ownership of the land and
wages of the workers, the price of tools, the prohibition of animals
through what was obtained from the fruit of the bequests of oth-
on land occupied by vineyards and the grape loads that each grower
ers, the monasteries became great receivers of cereals and wine. They
could send to the winery every day. Vats were measured and the
managed them as true commercial centres, consuming and selling
order of sales was established, among other things. The importance
them. The economic networks they set up were essential during the
and independence of the municipalities was strengthened through
Middle Ages, and even in the Modern Age, giving cohesion to the
the presence of large parish churches that brought a large number of
production and consumption centres and supervising them and de-
clergy together and acted as a counterweight to the previous power
ciding on the crops to be grown. This stability enabled the relaunch-
of the rural monasteries. Furthermore, the parishes and their chap-
ing of Rioja winemaking from the 10 century onwards, and its de-
ters received tithes and offerings and became first-line agricultural
velopment in later centuries. Examples of this are the illuminations
players because they held the major stores of cereal and wine. The
in the miniature figures of saints dated between the 10th and 11th
urban world next to the river Ebro also grew in terms of trades to
centuries, which seem to come from San Millán de la Cogolla. These,
satisfy the needs of winemaking, from makers of wineskins to coop-
together with manuscripts from several places, draw, narrate and de-
ers. More than a quarter of the artisans from these towns worked in
scribe vines haphazardly distributed all over the estate and mixed up
leather and animal skins at the end of the Middle Ages. The wine
with trees (almond, olive, cherry, fig…). They talk of the harvest,
harvests from these towns covered local consumption, and some-
grape treading and pressing, the consumption of grapes, specific tasks
times that of nearby villages, but not often the district as a whole.
for taking care of vines (digging, pruning, hoeing, watering), with
Municipal councils prohibited the sale of any wine from outside,
specific tools (sickle, the corvillo de vendemar [hoe]), the need for
except for the medicinal variety, and controlled what was served in
places to store wine (caves, cellars) and also obvious things: looking
inns either red or colorado (rosé) and white, and also aguapié (wine
after the vines and making wine requires a lot of manual labour.
watered down in the orujo del lagar) and judiego (in Haro or Alfaro).
th
During the Kingdom of Pamplona, with Nájera as its seat (1035-
Wine slowly became the economic driver of the villas along the Ebro
1076), vines were commonly seen all over La Rioja and they tended
valley. Wine is also a commodity, however, and, like others, liable to
to be concentrated in certain districts. They are mentioned in many
sisas and other taxes to finance the council, king or feudal lord. A
documents regulating swaps, purchase and sale and, above all, dona-
new battle started here: whether wine should be protected from tax-
tions to monasteries to cover the cost of funeral services. Older and
ation, although with unequal results. In places where specialisation
younger vines appear in many municipalities in La Rioja, although
in winemaking was greater, the less wine would be taxed.
Santiago Ibáñez Rodríguez
The great winepress of the wrath of God. Blessed monk of San Millán de la Cogolla with the image of grape harvest and pressing. National Library of Spain