3 minute read
FOOD
Magic in the Kitchen
Mexican chef Israel Loyo relocates to Memphis.
Aer working as head chef for the Mexican government and at numerous Mexico City restaurants, Israel Loyo is now executive chef at the new Uncle Goyo’s Mexican Restaurant. rough an interpreter Damaris Diaz, Loyo talked about his life and cooking.
Born in Mexico City, Loyo was drawn to cooking as a child, being in the kitchen with his grandmother. Her Sopa de Fideo, or vermicelli soup, is on Uncle Goyo’s menu. “ e heart of my cuisine is my connection to that soup,” he says.
Loyo began his cooking career at 16 “out of necessity” a er his parents separated and he had to get a job to pay for his schooling.
He worked his way from dishwasher
to chef at his rst job at a French restaurant. “At rst, they didn’t really care or pay attention, but I persisted, and they eventually started teaching me a er I nished all my work.”
Loyo worked at 18 restaurants. “Every one has been a piece of the puzzle. ey’re all unique in their characteristics and provided more experience to my expertise.
“I like to be organized,” he says. “I like to take a recipe and disassemble it and see where I can integrate my special touch, then bring it all together in an organized way where everyone in the kitchen is a part of it — it’s truly a product of a team e ort.”
When he was 23, Loyo was invited to be a chef for the Mexican government. “I had no idea who I was going to serve. When I got there, I started doing what I normally do — organizing the kitchen and making my plates.”
He discovered he was cooking for Samuel del Villar, the chief of the government. “I made a plate called Angels al Caballo. It was shrimp and I would stu them with cheese and wrap them with bacon.”
Loyo served it with soup. “Like a tomato cream. And it was perfumed with white wine. e guests absolutely loved it. ey loved it so much they popped a bottle of champagne.”
Villar gave him a hug and kissed him. “He said that was the best they ever had. is was a big moment of honor.”
Loyo was executive chef for the Mexican government until his term nished eight years later. He was called back two more times to work for them.
He then helped restaurants stabilize their menus, but he missed working in the kitchen. “I wasn’t practicing my passion,” he says. rough contacts, Loyo heard Greg Diaz wanted to open an authentic Mexican restaurant in Memphis, where Diaz’s TacoNganas food trucks already were popular.
Damaris Diaz says her father was impressed with Loyo, who “sold himself as someone who has been through all of Mexico City in di erent capacities in the kitchen.”
“What Greg Diaz had to o er was so appealing,” Loyo says. “It was a job where I could be the head chef. And it came with security and a three-year contract.”
Loyo, who moved to Memphis about two months ago, says, “I’d never le my country until now.”
Memphis “is calm,” he says. “ e city is beautiful in its diversity. And I truly believe that what we’re bringing to the table with this cuisine is going to make an impact because it’s something people here have never experienced — a contemporary touch” to traditional Hispanic recipes.
As for experiencing the Blu City, Loyo says, “I’m dedicating myself completely to the kitchen, which is why we’re able to have such a quick turnaround. I would love to get to know more of your gastronomy and your people — what makes Memphis unique.”
But, he says, “I love the barbecue ribs you guys prepare here.”
Loyo is ready for people to try his food. “When they get here, they’re going to nd magic.” Uncle Goyo’s Mexican Restaurant is at 1730 South Germantown Road in the ornwood community.
PHOTO: MICHAEL DONAHUE Chef Israel Loyo, Damaris Diaz, and Greg Diaz
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