HISTORY, CULTURE, SUN, SEA, AND MORE…

Have you just landed and are unsure about how to make the most of your stay? Well, firstly, welcome to the Maltese islands. We hope that they will enchant you and leave you wanting more – almost onefourth of visitors to Malta in 2022 were repeat visitors after all! Secondly, our raison d’être is precisely to help guide you around this wonderful archipelago.

Rebecca Anastasi starts by providing a local’s perspective on the top 10 things to do in Malta this spring and summer. She suggests a dose of culture, the arts and history, combined with some fun in the sun and outdoorsy activities thrown in for good measure.

A definite must-visit is the UNESCO World Heritage site of Valletta, the capital city. It is home to many of the islands’ historical treasures within its grid-like streets, alongside an impressive variety of cultural attractions, top-notch eateries, trendy watering holes and stylish places to sleep. Edward Bonello, a Valletta resident himself, shares local insight to help you take in all that this vibrant city has to offer.

One of the capital’s highlights is St John’s CoCathedral. It is a veritable treasure trove of Baroque art and architecture, among them the world-famous masterpiece by Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, The Beheading of St John the Baptist, and to another evocative work by the intrepid artist, Saint Jerome Writing. In the Meet the Locals section, Professor Keith Sciberras, an academic and the island’s resident expert on the artist, sheds light on what makes Caravaggio’s works revolutionary.

In another interesting piece, Dean Muscat meets six highly respected chefs who have all contributed to raising the bar in the restaurant scene locally over the past years. They share their insights, challenges and hopes for fine dining in Malta, as well as their favourite dining spots!

This edition is all about people with interesting stories to tell. Sarah Muscat Azzopardi interviews Johan Siggesson, a wildlife photographer from Sweden who has made Malta his home. In COVID times, his travel plans ground to a halt and he shifted his focus, led by his new-found fascination of the several orchids’ species that grow wild in Malta. They became the subject of a photography-based book, showcasing the natural beauty of the Maltese islands.

Last but not least, we meet three fashionistas who talk us through the fashion trends to look out for this season, to ensure you look your best for those Instagram-perfect photos.

We hope you enjoy this edition of Guide Me.

EXPLORE, DISCOVER, LIVE: A LOCAL’S TOP 10 THINGS TO DO IN MALTA THIS SEASON

As the temperatures rise, and the seas get warmer, REBECCA ANASTASI has the rundown to the unmissable experiences the Maltese islands have on offer this spring, and early summer.

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Get A Really Early Morning Swim

Malta is known for its crystal-blue waters and warm sands, which really show off their colours in the early morning sun, just as the island is waking up for its first cup of coffee. Head to the beach before 9am, and you will get to sink your feet into the soft sand, as the sea laps the shore, without having to endure the heaving and bustling crowds which tend to get there later on in the day. I find the best spots to enjoy the Mediterranean in all its pristine glory are Riviera beach in the north of the island (also known as Għajn Tuffieħa) and the long expanse at Mellieħa (or Għadira) bay, where you can even try out some water sports if you’re up to it – here, Costa del Sol offer water sports and jet ski hire all day. And, if you want to truly make it a traditional experience, pack some ftira biż-żejt (Maltese bread filled with tuna, olives, capers, and tomato paste) and the popular soft drink, Kinnie – you will definitely get the locals’ respect!

WATCH MALTA’S HISTORY COME TO LIFE

Many areas in Malta feel like an open-air museum, with ancient temples scattered around the islands, Baroque churches crowding the main squares, and Neoclassical columns taking a stand in the capital. Growing up enveloped by the stories of so many who have come before, the Maltese tend to become somewhat inured of their rich heritage. This is probably because there is so much to appreciate. But, if you’re on the island for just a few days, this is not your problem, and you would do well to book a primer which will take you on a whirlwind tour of the archipelago’s past, such as the Malta Experience, in Valletta. This show promises a lot – 7,000 years in under an hour – yet it delivers on visual spectacle and entertainment, to paint a portrait of a people determined to survive against all odds.

SEE AND BE SEEN – SAVOUR THE CAPITAL’S DELIGHTS

What many might not know is that, up until a few years ago, Valletta heaved with activity during the day, only to plummet into obscure silence at night. I remember walking down the main throughfare, Republic Street, long after the sun had set, in the 2010s, only to hear nothing but the scurrying of insects in the sewer below. Today, of course, it’s an entirely different affair. Valletta is alive, with a beating heart, and dancing feet, ready to party long into the night. During the day, the capital opens the doors to its museums, such as MUŻA, Malta’s National Museum of Art; its heritage sites, including St John’s CoCathedral, where you can witness the glory of Caravaggio’s The Beheading of St John the Baptist; and shops, such as Valletta Glass, a family business which offers glass artefacts and souvenirs, modelled on Venice’s famous Murano movement. But, as the sun sets, the colours of the sky find their mirror in the thousands of Spritzs Malta’s fashionable set sip while catching up on the day with their friends, or colleagues.

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HUNT DOWN STUNNING WORKS CREATED BY MALTA’S ARTISTS AND ARTISANS

Malta may be well known for its showstopping works of art, ensconced in places of worship, but far from the usual maddening crowd, its artists are busy shaping the future. The Christine X gallery in Sliema showcases the work of local painters and photographers, with the curator’s eye – the eponymous Christine, herself – serving as an informative guide to quality. There are several names who should be on your list, if contemporary art is a passion: Anna Galea, Ryan Falzon and Andrew Borg are some of Malta’s hottest property on the scene right now. If more artisanal work is up your street, the Malta Crafts Foundation, established in 2021, is a good guide to the island’s skilled professionals, and you can find some of their wares at the Malta Artisan Market, taking place on 3rd June, between 6pm and 10pm at Roseville in Attard. For more information, visit maltacrafts.org and www.maltaartisanmarkets.com.

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Reach Into The Water At The Blue Grotto

Malta, Gozo and Comino are surrounded by sea water caves, which puncture the limestone, and echo with centuries of deeply-held secrets. Legend has it that pirates used to store their gold in these caves – although that could simply be the plot of one of the films shooting on the island, for the only buccaneers I truly know of are those which haunt the bars after hours. Nevertheless, a visit to the caves should be on your itinerary, particularly those at Blue Grotto in Żurrieq. The name comes from the vivid colours of the waters, formed as the sun reflects off the sandy seabed underneath the caverns. Many tourists come and take Instagram-worthy shots from the panoramic spots high above, but if you truly want to live the place, a boat trip into the grotto is a must.

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BREATHE IN THE FRESH AIR IN THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF MDINA… THEN GET SOME PASTIZZI IN RABAT

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The ancient capital of Mdina is perched high above the island, on a plateau in its centre, surveying the lives beneath. It was founded in the eighth century BC, and has survived marauders and earthquakes, although today the only invaders are the hordes of tourists that make their way up that hill, or locals who head to its coffee shops, often to savour a slice of Fontanella’s chocolate cake, which is legendary. The small, fortified city is also known for its spectacular parish church – St Paul’s Cathedral – and the Mdina Cathedral Museum, homed next door, which tells the eventful history of the site. Both of these form part of the Mdina Metropolitan Chapter, which also co-runs the St John’s Co-Cathedral museum in Valletta. Before leaving, stop by in the ancient town of Rabat – located just outside Mdina’s walls – and pick up a couple of pastizzi (traditional filo pastry cheese or pea cakes) from Serkin.

Hold On To Your Sunhats On A Power Boat Trip

When I was a teenager, my family decided to head to Comino for the afternoon. This was not a usual affair – for some reason we had a tendency to frequent the same beaches in Malta, and never really bothered to venture that far out. But, on this occasion, we piled into a speed boat in St Julian’s, towels in hand, hats on head, and ready to make the ride to the small rocky island in the north. I don’t think I ever laughed so much: music blaring, all of us singing, we got to Comino with huge grins on our faces. That was years ago, but today, you can also live the power boat experience: Supreme Power Boats takes you to the Blue Lagoon, from Sliema, stopping off for long enough for you to jump off and snorkel; they also offer Comino cave tours, and private charters, should you fancy a more private affair. For more information, visit supremepowerboatsmalta.com.

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Cross Over To The Green Gem That Is Gozo

There are green areas on the Maltese islands… we promise! While many visitors to the island end up either in the cosmopolitan area of Sliema, or in the honeycombed capital of Valletta, there is more to this archipelago than high-quality restaurants and heritage sites. In Malta, the verdant areas of Buskett, Siġġiewi, Mġarr and Mtaħleb offer a break from the hustle and bustle of the tourist trail. However, if you’re a serious rambler – or, even, if you simply want to explore the natural riches of the Mediterranean – head to Gozo, via the ferry. Malta’s sister island is teeming with lush sites, rocky outcrops and rare flora.

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Feast On Fish And Seafood In Marsaxlokk And G Ar Lapsi

Malta’s location in the middle of the Mediterranean, at the crossroads of European, North African and Levantine cultures, has formed its identity, its language and its cuisine. And one of the mainstays of Malta’s culinary traditions is – no surprises here, considering it is an island – fish and seafood. Maltese fishermen are mainly based in the southern town of Marsaxlokk where you will see their colourful boats, known as luzzi, bop around in the waters. There are countless eateries around the coast here, many of exceptional quality. But, if you want to truly eat like a local, head to the small bay at Għar Lapsi: down on the quay you will find a small restaurant, Carmen’s Bar and Restaurant (otherwise known as Ta’ Carmen, or, ‘of Carmen’), whose food packs a punch. The owner buys fish fresh from the local fishers who drag their boats up on the shore.

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WATCH THE SUN SET WHILE SIPPING AN ICE-COLD BEER

There are a handful of things which the Maltese associate with home: the cheesy snack known as Twistees; the soft drink Kinnie; and the island’s best-loved brew, Cisk, which colours our memories of long days on the beach with friends, nights out as teenagers in sticky bars, and family BBQs. Our love affair with Cisk is undying, and all suds – whether they come from the beer-kings of Ireland, Germany or further afield – are always compared to the holy grail of our favourite hops. Today, you can discover the history of Malta’s icon at The Farsons Brewery Experience in Mriehel, located within the newly-opened The Brewhouse. When you’re done, head upstairs, to its rooftop bar, The Cisk Tap, and sip one of Malta’s best offerings as the sun sets over the island.

A visit to Malta must start from Valletta, Europe’s smallest and (arguably) sunniest capital city. EDWARD BONELLO, a Valletta boy himself, shares his favourite spots to take in the full flavour of the Valletta experience.

Malta’s capital city Valletta is more often referred to by locals simply as il-Belt (the city). That’s because, for many centuries, Valletta was the one reference point for the rest of the island, and anything and everything started and ended here. So, in tiny Malta, no one really needed to specify which city they were referring to – there was just the one.

You can only imagine how proud this makes Valletta residents, who are referred to as Beltin But what makes a real Belti? What are the special traits and secrets the Beltin know about their lovely city? Do you have what it takes to bear this prestigious title – for a day?

Here’s a quick guide to spending your day like a Belti (m) or Beltija (f), and really take in all this lovely city has to offer!

If you are lucky enough to be residing in one of the several beautifully-restored palazzos-turnedboutique hotels in Valletta, you’re in for a treat. Start the day early, possibly at sunrise, and head down to St Barbara Bastion to take in the spectacular view, as the sun peaks from behind the fortifications across the Grand Harbour. This scene will stay with you for a while.

Once you’re up, go for a stroll in the streets of downtown Valletta. The city has always been split into two – upper Valletta is home to government offices, museums, fancy eateries, and high street shops. Lower Valletta, closer to the harbour, is the residential, more authentic (slightly rough around the edges) part. This is where you meet the real Beltin, who are as colourful and animated as the city itself.

Then head to Pjazza Reġina and start the day strong. Get yourself a cappuccino or your favourite morning potion together with a couple of ricotta or pea pastizzi in one of Malta’s most iconic squares. Technically, this square is called Pjazza Repubblika, dedicated to Malta’s constitutional status, however many locals still refer to it by its old name due to the marble statue of Queen Victoria that sits in the middle – testament to the country’s recent colonial past.

Once you’ve had your breakfast, it’s time to visit one or two of the magnificent churches – the crown jewels of the city. Malta and Gozo have some 365 churches and chapels dotted around the islands – 28 of which are in Valletta! At a time when the city had a population much greater than today, these churches served the spiritual needs of the residents. In turn, they were transformed into veritable temples of art and reverence.

We start with St John’s Co-Cathedral, built by the Order of the Knights of St John as their Conventual Church, and decorated by the finest artists they could bring in from all over Europe. The Co-Cathedral and its museum are home to works by Caravaggio, Mattia Preti and many more, as well as a wonderful collection of tapestries – regarded among the largest and most exquisite sets of tapestries woven during the Baroque era – making this one of the most impressive places to visit in Malta. Until 24th June, the tapestries are being displayed within the main nave of the Co-Cathedral, following an extensive restoration process that lasted 16 years.

Move on to St Paul Shipwrecked Church, dedicated to St Paul’s shipwreck on Malta in 60AD, which led to the island converting to Christianity. Then there’s the church dedicated to Our Lady of Portosalvo which has a long history associated with Valletta’s maritime heritage, and the rotunda dedicated to Our Lady of Mount Carmel – a landmark that has characterised the Valletta skyline for many years.

Have you worked up an appetite yet? Naturally! Time to grab a quick bite Valletta-style, at one of the many lunchtime eateries that serve the thousands of workers who commute to Valletta every day. These often offer cheap and cheerful options of home-made favourites that can never go wrong. For a special treat, order a plate of ravioli with tomato sauce, a typical staple of the city – quick, tasty and sets you right for the rest of the day.

It’s the afternoon by now, and if you’re visiting during in the hot summer months, it’s time to refresh and go for a dip in the beautiful deep blue. The best swimming spots are at the very end of the peninsula, close to the breakwater. The sea is very deep here, and can get rough unexpectedly, so swimming here is only advised for strong swimmers. However, set against the hauntingly tall bastions of Fort St Elmo and the immense blue of the Mediterranean, this will possibly be one of the most beautiful dips of your life.

On the way back, make sure to take a stroll round the bastions and pass by the improvised summer beach rooms which make up a micro-village of their own.

Developed questionably over the decades, these shacks are where some locals hang out during the long hot summer evenings, gossiping and chilling the nights away.

If you’d rather stay dry, a visit to one of the capital’s museums is always a good idea. There are lots to choose from; from the national museum of art – MUŻA – which houses priceless paintings, sculptures, majolica, furniture, and silver by local and international artists, to the formidable Fort St Elmo, home to the national war museum, and from the National Museum of Archaeology, which offers a fascinating introduction to the prehistory and early history of the Maltese islands, spanning around 7,000 years, to Casa Rocca Piccola, a living museum, providing insight into the way Maltese nobility lived through the ages.

It’s early evening by now. Refresh quickly, and catch a show at the wonderful Teatru Manoel, a Baroque wonder of architecture, or at the delightful, open-air theatre space Pjazza Teatru Rjal. Alternatively, head to Spazju Kreattiv to take in some contemporary art.

Dinner time, and you’re spoilt for choice here. Valletta offers a wide range of restaurants, from

Michelin-starred fine dining, to experimental, ethnic, continental, Italian, local and more. You will find a tonne of recommendations about restaurants in Valletta, which you can consider according to your tastes.

And what better way to conclude the day than with a long drink at one of the several bars in the charming streets leading to the Grand Harbour – the ones in Santa Lucia Street are especially welcoming and guaranteed to send you home with the biggest smile you sported of late!

For The History Buffs

Valletta takes its name from the Grand Master of the Order of St John who had the vision to transform the previously baron peninsula, into a modern Renaissance city that would be the pride of the Hospitaller Order. The Knights had just overcome their most significant challenge to date – the Great Siege of 1565, which put everything on the line for the tiny island. However, supported by the stoic perseverance of the locals, they emerged stronger than ever, determined to carve their place in history – and boy did they manage! On 28th March 1566, the Grand Master laid the first stone of the new city where today stands the church dedicated to Our Lady of Victories, and the rest is history.